[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
+1 on saddle position's priority

I've been aware of this for some time. But much after I knew it, I
came to understand it better.

I used to think of it as an important notion regarding how to
efficiently ride and effectively handle a bike. Now I also understand
it is also the key to comfort. Once you get your butt in the right
place (up-down, front-back, angle), handlebar height and width and
even the size of and orientation of and material in your grip area
really fade in significance.

They still matter, of course. I prefer my bars high and wide and my
grips parallel-ish to the direction of travel. Most of the time. But
when I ride with my bars lower or narrower or my grips nearly
perpendicular to travel, I still get off the bike after 50 miles with
no strain or stiffness or numbness or tingling. I'm just tired or not,
depending on the intensity of the ride. And, of course, in a ride-
induced euphoric daze.

Your trunk is very adaptable when properly supported. I suspect having
a saddle that adapts to my chosen position (and guides me into it a
little) helps too. I have a B17.

My bars are all probably viewed as high and wide, bit they do range
from about 1cm above to 10cm above and from 48cm to 66cm. (Being 6'
245# has a lot to do with those numbers.)

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean



On May 15, 8:36 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Seehttp://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htmon fitting: long and
 rambling but worth reading, especially about saddle position which, I
 keep saying, is a principal key for bar comfort,  no matter what kind
 of bar or where it is placed. Saddle position gets your torso
 comfortable so that your arms don't have to hold it up. My bars range
 from 5 cm below to 8 cm above but all refer to the same saddle height
 and setback.

 FWIW, long torso, short limbs, 5'10.





 On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 5:36 PM, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
  Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
  there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
  optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
  individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
  hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
  sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
  everything would click into place.

  Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
  I'm learning, but it's slow going.

  So with that in mind...

  I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
  first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
  improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
  pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
  neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
  shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
  that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
  8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
  changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.

  It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
  drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
  feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
  fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
  perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
  that I would not find anything like this in the retro style. I
  suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
  bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
  anything with a medium to shallow drop.

  At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
  couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
  for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
  mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
  mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a similar construction
  and finish to model 115 (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this similar
  construction means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
  website does not specify.

  So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
  with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
  stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
  for hand positions.

  The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
  for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
  Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
  hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
  a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
  Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
  45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
  in and get the 45 cm... ?

  Well. I'm not 

[RBW] Re: chiming in:

2011-05-16 Thread Pondero
Nice to hear, John.  Just like this forum, it sounds like the folks at
the Country Bike Shop provided a positive experience.  It is a joy to
interact with folks that genuinely want you to have the same pleasure
on the bicycle that they themselves enjoy.  Enjoy the Sam H.!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sun, 2011-05-15 at 21:44 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

 But how do the Paris-Roubaix and the GB do on firm dirt and gravel?

I was on one dirt road ride last year where a friend had 28mm
Paris-Roubaix tires.  She flatted almost immediately as soon as we got
on the gravel, and then flatted again later on.  

I've had the 30mm Grand Bois Cypres on gravel roads for a few miles and
they're ridden fine, but I wasn't on the gravel long enough to draw any
conclusions about durability in that environment.  

Simply because of their relative narrowness (compared to the 650B tires
I have on other bikes) I wouldn't set out with them to do a dirt road
ride, but if I encountered a stretch of dirt road in the middle of a
long ride I wouldn't blanch or (as I've seen folks on 23mm racing tires
do) shriek Gravel, for the love of God!!! come to a sudden halt, stop
and carry the bike over the offending gravel section.




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[RBW] Re: Hello folks

2011-05-16 Thread Pondero
Scotty, when you get Homer dialed-in, you'll be finding all sorts of
clever ways to replace your cars whenever possible.  Be sure to send
photos after the happy arrival.

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[RBW] Re: Hello folks

2011-05-16 Thread Mike
Congrats on the purchase of the Hilsen. I doubt you'll be
disappointed. Between the LHT and Hilsen you'll be covered for all
your country bike needs, loaded and unloaded. Definitely post pictures
when you get the bike.

--mike

On May 15, 4:10 pm, Scotty bongos...@verizon.net wrote:
 I just thought I would introduce myself. Im Scot and I live in Holiday
 Florida. 3 weeks ago I ordered a new A Homer Hilsen complete bike from
 Rivendell. They told me it would take 8 weeks for them to get the
 frame and another 2 weeks for them to build it up. I am very excited
 to get and ride my bike. I have been drooling over the Rivbike website
 for a few years now and I came into the opportunity to get one and
 took it. It was a little bit of a gamble as I have not actually seen
 one in person. I am going solely on research and reputation. I have
 seen and ridden a Grant designed Bridgestone and I am fully confident
 in his work and Keven was very helpfull in my parts selection and
 sizing.

 I am also a member of the Surly Owners Group and i own and ride a
 Surly Long Haul Trucker. I have put allot of miles on my Surly and
 have also lost over 70 pounds riding it so My Riv is a bit of a reward
 for reaching a short term fitness goal and will hopefully keep me
 motivated to reach my long term goals of further weight loss and
 fitness as well as replacing my cars whenever possible.
 I have already gotten some good info from your group here and have
 some more reading to do. If there are any other Tampa Bay area
 Rivendell owners on here please say hi.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Tim McNamara

On May 16, 2011, at 7:19 AM, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On Sun, 2011-05-15 at 21:44 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
 
 But how do the Paris-Roubaix and the GB do on firm dirt and gravel?
 
 I was on one dirt road ride last year where a friend had 28mm
 Paris-Roubaix tires.  She flatted almost immediately as soon as we got
 on the gravel, and then flatted again later on.  
 
 I've had the 30mm Grand Bois Cypres on gravel roads for a few miles and
 they're ridden fine, but I wasn't on the gravel long enough to draw any
 conclusions about durability in that environment.  
 
 Simply because of their relative narrowness (compared to the 650B tires
 I have on other bikes) I wouldn't set out with them to do a dirt road
 ride, but if I encountered a stretch of dirt road in the middle of a
 long ride I wouldn't blanch or (as I've seen folks on 23mm racing tires
 do) shriek Gravel, for the love of God!!! come to a sudden halt, stop
 and carry the bike over the offending gravel section.

Strange to me.  I've ridden many miles on 23 mm tires of gravel.  Unless the 
gravel is loose it's not a problem.  But then I grew up doing a lot of riding 
on gravel; I just keep going because it doesn't feel funny to me.  It's 
probably like the Belgians and cobbles- just what you're used to.  My 
grandparents lived on a farm in Michigan surrounded by gravel roads.  There are 
a bunch of gravel road enthusiasts around the Twin Cities, have their own 
mailing list and (appropriately enough) loosely organized rides.  I haven't 
gotten out to any of those, having previously had a lot of schedule conflicts 
on the weekends.

I've noticed that gravel used on roads is much larger than it used to be; when 
I was a kid gravel on roads tended to be fine grained (1/4 or smaller) and 
locked down pretty quickly but nowadays gravel seems to be 1/2 to 1 as a 
general rule.  The bigger gravel is less stable under a wheel.  Given the 
politics that erupt around gravel mining locally, it is possible that- like 
oil- we've used up a lot of the higher quality easily accessible resources.

IME coarser gravel needs bigger tires to avoid plowing through it and bogging 
down.

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Swami
I made the exact switch you are describing. My Seven Rando bike had
Ruffy Tuffys which I loved. Great ride, no flats luckily after nearly
500 miles but they are so light and thin that I felt a flat was
inevitable. My riding has changed recently with me riding through
Boston at night and I didn't want to deal with changing a flat in
Roxbury at 11 PM, yikes. Plus, the Marathons have reflective
sidewalls.

The Marathons are nice and are hear to stay. My only gripes: They
claim to be 700 x 30 but actually measure just shy of 28 so they
actually have less volume than the Ruffy Tuffys. They fit more loosely
to the rim which always freaks me out but no issues. They tend to need
more pressure than the Ruffy Tuffys or they feel a little
unresponsive, probably because of the heavier casing. Plus, they don't
look as nice :)

On May 15, 8:23 am, Forrest ftme...@me.com wrote:
 Any experiences and/or preferences on the Ruffy Tuffy versus Marathon
 Racer 700x30c? I am thinking of going with one or the other on my Riv
 LongLow (geometry and clearances similar to Rambouillet). Thanks.  --
 Forrest

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 5:36 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:
[snip]  Once you get your butt in the right
 place (up-down, front-back, angle), handlebar height and width and
 even the size of and orientation of and material in your grip area
 really fade in significance.

One more chime here: I gave up gloves years ago and find even unpadded
bars with cloth tape comfortable, at least for = 30 mile rides. And
my bars range from 38-39 cm Belleris to 46 cm Noodles and, as I said,
from 5 cm below to 8 cm above saddle. Good points, Thomas.

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread Bill M.
If you want wide, the Rando bars won't do it.  The 45's are only about
38 cm across at the hoods.  I use mine set high, and use the drops
when out of the saddle.

I really like the 'compact' shape of some modern bars, like this one
(the only one I know of that comes in silver):
http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=394053

They are particularly well suited to brifters, which allow hand
position that's further forward than the brake levers that were in use
when bars like the Nitto were designed.  Problem is they only come in
31.8 mm clamp diameter.  That means using a threadless stem and a
quill adapter.  That's not tragic, I actually think it works well and
makes adjustments and stem swaps very easy.  I have a VO stem and a
Zoom quill adapter on my Riv and the combination is lighter than the
Technomic Deluxe that preceded them.

IMO, Albatross bars are fine and have their place, but they aren't
really a substitute for a drop bar.

Bill

On May 15, 4:36 pm, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
 Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
 there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
 optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
 individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
 hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
 sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
 everything would click into place.

 Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
 I'm learning, but it's slow going.

 So with that in mind...

 I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
 first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
 improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
 pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
 neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
 shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
 that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
 changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.

 It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
 drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
 feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
 fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
 perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
 that I would not find anything like this in the retro style. I
 suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
 bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
 anything with a medium to shallow drop.

 At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
 couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
 for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
 mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
 mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a similar construction
 and finish to model 115 (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this similar
 construction means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
 website does not specify.

 So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
 with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
 stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
 for hand positions.

 The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
 for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
 Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
 hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
 a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
 Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
 45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
 in and get the 45 cm... ?

 Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone
 will read it and offer their thoughts and/or experiences. I'd be
 interested to read what others have to say.

 Thanks,
 Zaelia

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[RBW] Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread Mitch Browne
Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.

I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.

I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
personal experience?

Mitch
San Luis Obispo, CA

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Re: [RBW] Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread Rene Sterental
I have the 35 Supremes on my Homer and like them very much. No flats
and no issues. I have the 50 Supremes on my Atlantis and am also very
pleased with them. Haven't used the 40 but would assume they'd be as
wonderful.

I have the 40 Extremes and love them.

I'm sure you'll love both so choose the one you fancy best and fits.

Rene

Sent from my iPhone 4

On May 16, 2011, at 9:39 AM, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:

 Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
 Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.

 I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
 the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
 rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.

 I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
 personal experience?

 Mitch
 San Luis Obispo, CA

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[RBW] guu watanabe bag videos

2011-05-16 Thread Seth Vidal
I've been following this photo stream on flickr for a long time. Guu
Watanabe is a maker of custom bags using leather and canvas. He makes
a lot of cycling bags as well as any other kind of bag.

Recently they put up a few videos of the process of making a bag.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/guuwatanabe/sets/72157626734300676/with/5726237437/

I'm not sure what he's saying in the video since I don't
speak/read/understand japanese but I enjoyed watching the snippets and
browsing through the bags he has on:

http://www.guu-watanabe.com/english.htm

They appear to be fantastic products but I've never seen one in person.


-sv

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RE: [RBW] guu watanabe bag videos

2011-05-16 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I have a small burgundy saddlebag from them (bought from Bill at Wallingford 
Bikes), and it really is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship.  Easily the equal 
of Berthoud, maybe better. But with Wallingford out of the line, I don't know 
of anyone in the US carrying it.  Their website (there used to be a link on 
wallbike.com, don't know if it's still there) has a provision for ordering 
directly from Japan, but I haven't done it.

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Seth Vidal
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2011 11:44 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] guu watanabe bag videos

I've been following this photo stream on flickr for a long time. Guu Watanabe 
is a maker of custom bags using leather and canvas. He makes a lot of cycling 
bags as well as any other kind of bag.

Recently they put up a few videos of the process of making a bag.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/guuwatanabe/sets/72157626734300676/with/5726237437/

I'm not sure what he's saying in the video since I don't speak/read/understand 
japanese but I enjoyed watching the snippets and browsing through the bags he 
has on:

http://www.guu-watanabe.com/english.htm

They appear to be fantastic products but I've never seen one in person.


-sv

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Re: [RBW] guu watanabe bag videos

2011-05-16 Thread Seth Vidal
On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 11:56 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 I have a small burgundy saddlebag from them (bought from Bill at Wallingford 
 Bikes), and it really is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship.  Easily the 
 equal of Berthoud, maybe better. But with Wallingford out of the line, I 
 don't know of anyone in the US carrying it.  Their website (there used to be 
 a link on wallbike.com, don't know if it's still there) has a provision for 
 ordering directly from Japan, but I haven't done it.




I thought that Jitensha could get them, too.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread andrew hill
I have the 40 Mara Supremes on my Hillborne, and they are bulletproof, but 
heavy, and always feel like they are working against me accelerating, etc.

Best,
Andrew

On May 16, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Rene Sterental wrote:

 I have the 35 Supremes on my Homer and like them very much. No flats
 and no issues. I have the 50 Supremes on my Atlantis and am also very
 pleased with them. Haven't used the 40 but would assume they'd be as
 wonderful.
 
 I have the 40 Extremes and love them.
 
 I'm sure you'll love both so choose the one you fancy best and fits.
 
 Rene
 
 Sent from my iPhone 4
 
 On May 16, 2011, at 9:39 AM, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
 Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.
 
 I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
 the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
 rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.
 
 I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
 personal experience?
 
 Mitch
 San Luis Obispo, CA
 
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[RBW] 64cm Atlantis for sale

2011-05-16 Thread artmoli...@yahoo.com
64 cm Rivendell Atlantis for sale

General  -  I bought this frame new in the early 1990’s and it has
served me well as you might expect. It’s overall condition is
excellent with a  typical array of scratches and knicks and no dents.
The drive train is sevicable, but much of it is well used.
Asking $1075.00 in Atlanta. I can send pictures.
artmoli...@yahoo.com



Wheels  -  Mavic MA 2 rims, Shimano LX hubs.

Tires  -  new Panaracer Pasela Tour Guard Kevlar   700x32.

Crank  - Sugino XD triple,  48-36-24..

Cassette  -   11-32,  8  speed.

Deraillers   -   Shimano XT front and rear.

Shifters _ Shimano bar cons, friction only as index feature is
inoperable.

Chain  -  new SRAM PC 69   8 speed.

Brakes  -  Shimano cantilevers with aero levers.

Fork  -  Rivendell steel, threaded, Tange headset.

Handlebars  -  Nitto Randonneur.

Pedals  -  not included.

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[RBW] Re: chiming in:

2011-05-16 Thread rex
one thing i noticed at the country bike shop was the absolutely
excellent fender lines on all of their bikes. definetly have them
install fenders on yer sam. oh yeah they are quite nice people there
too.
joe rex kelly

On May 16, 8:18 am, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Nice to hear, John.  Just like this forum, it sounds like the folks at
 the Country Bike Shop provided a positive experience.  It is a joy to
 interact with folks that genuinely want you to have the same pleasure
 on the bicycle that they themselves enjoy.  Enjoy the Sam H.!

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[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming

2011-05-16 Thread Jeffrey
My first Riv, my first build of any kind. I'm a bit nervous.

56 CM SimpleOne designed to ride a 20 mile round trip commute over
hills, in all weather, with a bag for stuff, as light, clean and cheap
as possible.

Interface
**
Bars - Albatross on Nitto 11cm Technomic, stem with cork grips. If
this doesn't work I'll try some down bars.
Seat - Brooks B17 black
Seat Post - yes
Pedals - MKS Touring with Power Grips
Brake - One front Tektro MTB with Tektro CR720 cantilevers

Drivetrain
**
Rear hub - Sturmey-Archer S2C two-speed kickback with coaster brake
Cog - 17 tooth(?)
Crank - TBD

Wheels
*
May have Rich build these, or a local guy. Nothing special.

Bolt On
*
Rack - Nitto Mini Front
Bag - Some Rando style TBD.
Fenders - SKS or if I can find some green painted fenders!
Light - IXON IQ Speed

That's it! Very curious and a bit nevous about the S-A S2C hub, hope
it works.Any experience here with these or someone considering the
same?

Is there a rando bag that with work with Albatross bars?

~ Cheers,

Jeff


On May 14, 11:35 am, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I've been riding fixed/fixed on the stock QB free/free for a couple
 years without incident. I use the rotafix method of affixing the cog.
 The bikeshop broke a chainwhip trying to remove one of my cogs after
 I'd traded the wheelset to a friend. A little rota-UN-fixing, and it
 came right off. The original and still the best 
 explanation:http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

  Philip

  Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com

 On May 13, 6:03 pm, rex jupiterthunderb...@yahoo.com wrote:



  on the contrary, ive been riding my quickbeam with a fixed/free setup
  on the free/free suzue hub, and so far zero problems. totally doable.
  the secret is in having two excellent brakes. obviously(?) much safer
  with a lockring but if yer not skidding to a stop i doubt it matters.
  got my advice from keven@riv and sheldonbrown.com. just my two cents.
  thanks for your time
  joe rex kelly

  On May 13, 7:07 pm, Ron MH visio...@gmail.com wrote:

   Andrew, sounds like a good set up. I'd make one change, though.
   Instead of a free/free rear hub, I'd go for either free/fixed or fixed/
   fixed. The reason is, you can always put a freewheel on a fixed hub
   but you can never put a fixed cog on a freewheel hub. You limit your
   options by going free/free; you leave your options completely open
   with fixed/fixed. Maybe you don't want to try fixed gear now, but you
   may some day. I stared with a fixed/free setup and usually rode with
   the freewheel side. Now I'd say 80% of my miles are on the fixed gear
   side; it's a great way to go.

   Good luck with your mad plotting! ;-)

   Ron

   On May 13, 2:27 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:

Ok.. I'm sure some of you can relate.  

You think.. nice!  A new Rivendell frame for ~ $1K.  

I can build a less-expensive bike than what I've already got, and it's 
not that bad... feels totally justifiable.  And this one is a single 
speed - how much will it cost even with a couple of nice parts, without 
all that expensive shifter/derailleur nonsense...

And then you start choosing parts.

Here is my simple build list, after I got done dreaming and plotting. 
 Sadly, only a couple of these things were in my parts bin, so I 
managed to build my most spendy Rivendell yet.  : /

58cm SimpleOne

Interface:
--
Nitto Randonneur bars (45cm)
Newbaums Orange
Dirt drop stem (10cm)
Brooks Special, Honey
Nitto S-84 seatpost
White Industries urban platform / Bruce Gordon stainless half clips.

Wheelset
---
Phil Wood high-flange free/free hubset, 32h, SLR drilled
Velocity Fusion rims, double butted DT Swiss (laced radial front / 
3-cross rear), brass nipples.
Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700c x 35

Drivetrain
---
White Industries Ti BB  (113mm)
White Industries ENO Crank (170mm) silver
White Industries Dos ENO 16/19t
White Industries Double chainring, 38/35t
3/32 single-speed chain
Sugino Crank Fixing Bolts (8mm)

Stoptrain
---
Sram S500 road levers
Jagwire brake cables
Tektro CR720 cantilevers

Aside from rim-tape and tubes, did I miss anything?  

I've got bottle cages, beeswax, corks, and twine, and the specific 
tools for those cranks and bb.  The bar wrap will be shellacked down 
from orange to something approaching the honey of the saddle.

Might put on an extra R-15 rack that I've got, or a sturdier and 
sleeker pannier rack if i can find one.
Thinking about a 21t freewheel for the other side, too, or a 14t...

Comon - who else has been madly plotting a SimpleOne or 
not-so-SimpleOne?

Best,
Andrew- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

-- 

Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread Khalid Mateen
Anyone try th Grand Bois randonneuring handlebars?  Heard they are pretty
good.

K.

On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 8:02 PM, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:

 I have the Nitto Rando bars also and will use them on my New Simple
 One..just keep in mind that at the hoods they are much narrower. I
 think mine measure something like 38 or 39 cm. I like mine just fine
 and have about 3000 miles on them. I do also use a Noodle bar on my
 geared bike but its a 41cm so I like a narrower bar regardless. I
 don't ride in the dirt much so I don't need the wider grip on my road
 bike.

 On May 15, 4:44 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hi Zaella,
 
  I just got a 45 cm Rando bar to put on my pending SimpleOne, and will
 prob use a 10cm dirt-drop stem (lifts it higher).
 
  I've hated drops for the most part, and never gotten use to them, due to
 my long torso and shortish arms - always felt too forward/down even with an
 otherwise perfectly fitting stem.  I love mustache and relatively straight
 bars (like bullmoose) for that reason.
 
  Bit I got the Rando's for the same reason you are considering them - to
 try some shorter drops.
  The 45's don't feel huge at all - because of the flared drop, they are
 not only much shallower than a noodle of the same width, the flats area is
 also smaller to make room for the flare.  E.g I doubt you will find the 45s
 to big.
 
  It'll be a few weeks before I actually mount them on a bike, but i'll let
 you know what i think once i do, if you are still curious.
 
  Best,
  Andrew
 
  On May 15, 2011, at 4:36 PM, Zaelia wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
   there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
   optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
   individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
   hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
   sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
   everything would click into place.
 
   Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
   I'm learning, but it's slow going.
 
   So with that in mind...
 
   I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
   first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
   improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
   pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
   neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
   shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
   that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
   8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
   changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.
 
   It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
   drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
   feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
   fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
   perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
   that I would not find anything like this in the retro style. I
   suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
   bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
   anything with a medium to shallow drop.
 
   At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
   couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
   for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
   mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
   mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a similar construction
   and finish to model 115 (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this similar
   construction means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
   website does not specify.
 
   So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
   with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
   stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
   for hand positions.
 
   The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
   for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
   Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
   hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
   a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
   Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
   45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
   in and get the 45 cm... ?
 
   Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone
   will read it and offer their thoughts and/or experiences. I'd be
   interested to read what others have to say.
 
   Thanks,
   Zaelia
 
   --
   You received this message because you 

[RBW] Re: Ang.: Y'all *have* heard about this one?

2011-05-16 Thread ekoral
i think the source must be Mordor.

On May 14, 1:11 pm, Pete pedalling.p...@gmail.com wrote:
 Would call that an insult and abomination of the bicycle design!
 Not easy being in Grant's shoes these days and constantly associated with
 with the Bridgestone brand:
 1988 Bridgestone Bicycle 
 Calendarhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1988-Bridgestone-Bicycle-Calendar-New-Old-Stock...

 ; )

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[RBW] Re: Paul Motolite brakes

2011-05-16 Thread ekoral
i have the Paul motolite brakes in order to use 650b's on my atlantis
designed for 26 wheels. they work wonders, however, they have much
more upward vertical movement than downward. i'm don't think it will
work to go from 700c to 650b and continue the use of your canti
studs.

sorry.

On May 14, 10:12 am, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 I know that some of you are very familiar with these brakes. Can one
 can use these brakes on a 700c sized frame to convert to 650B by
 adjusting the pads lower on the brakes?  Or, is it a lot more
 complicated than that?

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RE: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I have 'em on my AHH, and I love them.  But I'm not hard to please on 
handlebars -- many feel great to me, including wide Noodles and narrow old 
Nittos and Cinellis.  And Moustaches, and Albas, and Bullmeese


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Khalid Mateen
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2011 9:47 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

Anyone try th Grand Bois randonneuring handlebars?  Heard they are pretty good.

K.

On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 8:02 PM, charlie 
charles_v...@hotmail.commailto:charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
I have the Nitto Rando bars also and will use them on my New Simple
One..just keep in mind that at the hoods they are much narrower. I
think mine measure something like 38 or 39 cm. I like mine just fine
and have about 3000 miles on them. I do also use a Noodle bar on my
geared bike but its a 41cm so I like a narrower bar regardless. I
don't ride in the dirt much so I don't need the wider grip on my road
bike.

On May 15, 4:44 pm, andrew hill 
neurod...@gmail.commailto:neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi Zaella,

 I just got a 45 cm Rando bar to put on my pending SimpleOne, and will prob 
 use a 10cm dirt-drop stem (lifts it higher).

 I've hated drops for the most part, and never gotten use to them, due to my 
 long torso and shortish arms - always felt too forward/down even with an 
 otherwise perfectly fitting stem.  I love mustache and relatively straight 
 bars (like bullmoose) for that reason.

 Bit I got the Rando's for the same reason you are considering them - to try 
 some shorter drops.
 The 45's don't feel huge at all - because of the flared drop, they are not 
 only much shallower than a noodle of the same width, the flats area is also 
 smaller to make room for the flare.  E.g I doubt you will find the 45s to big.

 It'll be a few weeks before I actually mount them on a bike, but i'll let you 
 know what i think once i do, if you are still curious.

 Best,
 Andrew

 On May 15, 2011, at 4:36 PM, Zaelia wrote:







  Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
  there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
  optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
  individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
  hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
  sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
  everything would click into place.

  Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
  I'm learning, but it's slow going.

  So with that in mind...

  I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
  first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
  improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
  pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
  neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
  shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
  that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
  8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
  changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.

  It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
  drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
  feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
  fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
  perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
  that I would not find anything like this in the retro style. I
  suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
  bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
  anything with a medium to shallow drop.

  At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
  couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
  for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
  mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
  mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a similar construction
  and finish to model 115 (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this similar
  construction means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
  website does not specify.

  So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
  with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
  stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
  for hand positions.

  The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
  for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
  Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
  hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
  a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the 

Re: [RBW] Re: Ang.: Y'all *have* heard about this one?

2011-05-16 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Mordor working through its agent, Carapace Completed Umber. Note the
mini-microdrive drivetrain.

Patrick and what the hell does *that* mean? Moore

On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 1:03 AM, ekoral eko...@gmail.com wrote:
 i think the source must be Mordor.

 On May 14, 1:11 pm, Pete pedalling.p...@gmail.com wrote:
 Would call that an insult and abomination of the bicycle design!
 Not easy being in Grant's shoes these days and constantly associated with
 with the Bridgestone brand:
 1988 Bridgestone Bicycle 
 Calendarhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1988-Bridgestone-Bicycle-Calendar-New-Old-Stock...

 ; )

 --
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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: guu watanabe bag videos

2011-05-16 Thread rperks
Thanks for the tip.  I love to see the Japanese traditional cutting
tools, although I do like my rotary cutter.

While browsing his photostream I saw this rack from Nitto
http://flic.kr/p/9FDMCf
and wondered if anybody here has tried one yet?  I know thay are
similare to the VO offering and some older racks, but interesting none
the less.  I saw these last week on the Ben's cycle page looking for
other stuff and promptly forgot about it until now.

Rob
-
http://oceanaircycles.com/

On May 16, 8:43 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've been following this photo stream on flickr for a long time. Guu
 Watanabe is a maker of custom bags using leather and canvas. He makes
 a lot of cycling bags as well as any other kind of bag.

 Recently they put up a few videos of the process of making a bag.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/guuwatanabe/sets/72157626734300676/with/...

 I'm not sure what he's saying in the video since I don't
 speak/read/understand japanese but I enjoyed watching the snippets and
 browsing through the bags he has on:

 http://www.guu-watanabe.com/english.htm

 They appear to be fantastic products but I've never seen one in person.

 -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Simple dreaming

2011-05-16 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Photos and early ride descriptions when the time comes, please,
especially wrt the S2C which I from time to time consider for a
cop-out alternative wheel for my Riv fixies. I hankered after a S1
myself until the Herse put paid to that particular dream, at least for
now -- it fills the role I had in mind for the S1, videlicet, an
all-rounder, load carrying bike that is also fun to ride fast. Your
build sounds perfectly reasonable, tho' I personally find any bar
except a drop uncomfortable.

I wonder how the S1 will handle with a front load? My other Rivs have
been happiest with most of the weight in back. I bought the Herse for
its putative (!!) front loading capacity -- hope to really test it
once I get a porteur rack, God willing, later this week.

On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 9:28 AM, Jeffrey unclecowb...@gmail.com wrote:
 My first Riv, my first build of any kind. I'm a bit nervous.

 56 CM SimpleOne designed to ride a 20 mile round trip commute over
 hills, in all weather, with a bag for stuff, as light, clean and cheap
 as possible.

 Interface
 **
 Bars - Albatross on Nitto 11cm Technomic, stem with cork grips. If
 this doesn't work I'll try some down bars.
 Seat - Brooks B17 black
 Seat Post - yes
 Pedals - MKS Touring with Power Grips
 Brake - One front Tektro MTB with Tektro CR720 cantilevers

 Drivetrain
 **
 Rear hub - Sturmey-Archer S2C two-speed kickback with coaster brake
 Cog - 17 tooth(?)
 Crank - TBD

 Wheels
 *
 May have Rich build these, or a local guy. Nothing special.

 Bolt On
 *
 Rack - Nitto Mini Front
 Bag - Some Rando style TBD.
 Fenders - SKS or if I can find some green painted fenders!
 Light - IXON IQ Speed

 That's it! Very curious and a bit nevous about the S-A S2C hub, hope
 it works.Any experience here with these or someone considering the
 same?

 Is there a rando bag that with work with Albatross bars?

 ~ Cheers,

 Jeff


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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Aaron Thomas
The Grifo XS roll beautifully on pavement! Just as well as (actually, 
possibly even faster than) the JB Greens, despite the nibbly knobs. And I'm 
not saying that to dis' the JB Greens, which I like a lot and think are 
really great tires.

I've ridden the Challenge Parigi-Roubaix on gravel/dirt a few times and have 
never flatted. They don't have enough volume for gonzo trail riding, but 
I've done that too on a whim and didn't flat.

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[RBW] First S24O to Sam P. Taylor with photos.

2011-05-16 Thread Naz Hamid
Hi,

Thought I'd make a proper post as I'm a long-time lurker and reply-er
but never first time poster.

A few friends and I have all recently reached that point in our
cycling lives where we've sold or barely ride our track bikes, where
the road bikes see less and less use and our racings days are long
gone and the interest is in purely remembering how much fun the first
time we rode bicycles was like. We've all collectively encouraged each
other to build up Riv-ish bikes (though, aside from my wife, none of
us have a Riv — a Bob Jackson, an old Gitane and a Velo Orange) and
being in the Bay Area finally decided we'd take these lovely bikes and
go bike camping for the first time.

I won't bore you with a soliloquy on how much of a wonderful weekend
it was, with moments of pure child-like joy and wonderment (at least
in my mind) and the feeling of the freedom that comes with riding a
bike.

Thus, photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/absenter/sets/72157626701948778/

Cheers!
Naz.

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[RBW] Re: First S24O to Sam P. Taylor with photos.

2011-05-16 Thread manueljohnacosta
Awesome pictures Naz! Looked like lovely weather.

On May 16, 11:23 am, Naz Hamid absen...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 Thought I'd make a proper post as I'm a long-time lurker and reply-er
 but never first time poster.

 A few friends and I have all recently reached that point in our
 cycling lives where we've sold or barely ride our track bikes, where
 the road bikes see less and less use and our racings days are long
 gone and the interest is in purely remembering how much fun the first
 time we rode bicycles was like. We've all collectively encouraged each
 other to build up Riv-ish bikes (though, aside from my wife, none of
 us have a Riv — a Bob Jackson, an old Gitane and a Velo Orange) and
 being in the Bay Area finally decided we'd take these lovely bikes and
 go bike camping for the first time.

 I won't bore you with a soliloquy on how much of a wonderful weekend
 it was, with moments of pure child-like joy and wonderment (at least
 in my mind) and the feeling of the freedom that comes with riding a
 bike.

 Thus, photos:http://www.flickr.com/photos/absenter/sets/72157626701948778/

 Cheers!
 Naz.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2011-05-16 at 08:55 -0500, Tim McNamara wrote:
 
 Strange to me.  I've ridden many miles on 23 mm tires of gravel.
 Unless the gravel is loose it's not a problem.  But then I grew up
 doing a lot of riding on gravel; I just keep going because it doesn't
 feel funny to me.  It's probably like the Belgians and cobbles- just
 what you're used to.  My grandparents lived on a farm in Michigan
 surrounded by gravel roads.  There are a bunch of gravel road
 enthusiasts around the Twin Cities, have their own mailing list and
 (appropriately enough) loosely organized rides.  I haven't gotten out
 to any of those, having previously had a lot of schedule conflicts on
 the weekends.
 
 I've noticed that gravel used on roads is much larger than it used to
 be; when I was a kid gravel on roads tended to be fine grained (1/4
 or smaller) and locked down pretty quickly but nowadays gravel seems
 to be 1/2 to 1 as a general rule.  The bigger gravel is less stable
 under a wheel.  Given the politics that erupt around gravel mining
 locally, it is possible that- like oil- we've used up a lot of the
 higher quality easily accessible resources.
 
 IME coarser gravel needs bigger tires to avoid plowing through it and
 bogging down.

Agreed.  Also I find that being heavier than most, even 25mm tires are
very unsatisfactory for me on gravel roads: they skitter around and feel
very unsteady.  The wider I go, the more planted the bike feels and the
more secure I am.

I was very surprised when I switched from CdlVs to Hetres and did the
same gravel road descent and found that where I'd initially felt as
though I was riding ten tenths at around 12 mph with the CdlVs that with
the Hetres I was taking the same descents at 18-20 mph and feeling all
laid back and casual.



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[RBW] Re: guu watanabe bag videos

2011-05-16 Thread Lee
On May 16, 9:04 am, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 I thought that Jitensha could get them, too.

That's correct. Jitensha does carry a model that I think Hiroshi
designed with Guu--collabo'd, as the kids say. I saw the prototype
there a while back:

http://tinyurl.com/42rngo6

But, now you can order the real thing, according to Hiroshi's
daughter.

Best,
SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] First S24O to Sam P. Taylor with photos.

2011-05-16 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Mon, 2011-05-16 at 11:23 -0700, Naz Hamid wrote:
 
 I won't bore you with a soliloquy on how much of a wonderful weekend
 it was, with moments of pure child-like joy and wonderment (at least
 in my mind) and the feeling of the freedom that comes with riding a
 bike.
 
 Thus, photos:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/absenter/sets/72157626701948778/

No need, it comes through very well in the photos.  It's a wonderful
sport, isn't it?



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Re: [RBW] First S24O to Sam P. Taylor with photos.

2011-05-16 Thread Anne Paulson
I know all about the wonderfulness of SP Taylor, having camped there
several times, but portable Settlers?!! Where do you get such a thing?

On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 11:23 AM, Naz Hamid absen...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 Thought I'd make a proper post as I'm a long-time lurker and reply-er
 but never first time poster.

 A few friends and I have all recently reached that point in our
 cycling lives where we've sold or barely ride our track bikes, where
 the road bikes see less and less use and our racings days are long
 gone and the interest is in purely remembering how much fun the first
 time we rode bicycles was like. We've all collectively encouraged each
 other to build up Riv-ish bikes (though, aside from my wife, none of
 us have a Riv — a Bob Jackson, an old Gitane and a Velo Orange) and
 being in the Bay Area finally decided we'd take these lovely bikes and
 go bike camping for the first time.

 I won't bore you with a soliloquy on how much of a wonderful weekend
 it was, with moments of pure child-like joy and wonderment (at least
 in my mind) and the feeling of the freedom that comes with riding a
 bike.

 Thus, photos:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/absenter/sets/72157626701948778/

 Cheers!
 Naz.

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-- 
-- Anne Paulson

My hovercraft is full of eels

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Patrick in VT


On May 15, 11:44 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 But how do the Paris-Roubaix and the GB do on firm dirt and gravel? Would I be
 pushing it?

I've pushed both over many an unpaved surface.  no flats/sidewall
tears, but they get chewed up pretty good.  lots of nicks in the tread
and rough surfaces definitely accelerate the wear on these tires (but
as they do get worn, I put a bit of Stan's sealant in the tube for a
bit of extra protection/peace of mind).

As David notes, they wear kind of fast in general, so you'd need to
decide if you want kill a tire that nice bombing around on rough
roads.  Because of that, I prefer to use them on paved roads more
often than not lately.







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[RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Patrick in VT
On May 16, 12:04 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 And do the Grifo XSs roll well on pavement?

the XS has a very, very soft tread and I wouldn't be surprised if it
started to peel away if used primarily on the road.  I've used both
the clincher and tubular - and like them - but it's not going to offer
you much, if anything, that 30-33 slick at a proper psi can on mixed
terrain rides.  i'm also dubious of its cornering capability on
pavement - i've had a few sketchy experiences where I pushed this tire
a little too hard in the turns.  side knobs are okay for cornering in
grass, tacky mud, etc. - not so great on asphalt.

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Re: [RBW] Re: A Little More Vanilla

2011-05-16 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sun, 2011-05-15 at 20:19 -0700, Lesli wrote:
 Here's mine.  Recent Fall '10 delivery.  Stealth decals.   Someone on
 our 600k last week asked me if it was a Raleigh.

The only Raleighs that bike looks even remotely like are the Raleigh
Restorations JP Weigle's been doing, like this his latest:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/49353569@N00/5722556927/in/photostream




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[RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Aaron Thomas
Interesting. That hasn't been my experience with the Grifo XS at all. I've 
ridden the same trails on both Jack Brown greens and Grifo XS. For me, the 
small knobs offer quite a bit of grip in sections that leave the JBs 
slipping and spinning out. 

I haven't had any cornering issues on asphalt with the side knobs on the 
Grifos, nor has the tread peeled away. And I've used them quite a bit on 
pavement, riding many miles to-and-from the trailheads. I've found them to 
be quite durable and fast tires for any setting, and definitely preferable 
to similar width slicks on dirt.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Parts I am selling from Bombadil

2011-05-16 Thread williwoods
Here is what is still available:

Cages: Nitto R and Electra/Nitto knockoff cage $50 for Nitto $15 for
Electra
Front Der: Shimano Ultegra $20
Cranks: Sugino XD2 triple 175mm 24/39/43 I also have a Sugino 40,
never got the rings I really wanted easy fix. $75


and a few other items I was holding on to but decided to pass along.


Headset: Cane Creek Classic 100 1  $70
Saddle: Brooks B-17 Special $90
Rear Der: Shimano Ultegra High normal $75
Pedals: Suntour Superbe Pro. $55
Toe Clips: MKS L Half clips with leather. $15
Fenders: VO Zeppelin 55mm $25


On May 13, 3:08 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Stem, Bars and shifters are sold.

 waiting to hear back about the wheels from RJM

 On May 13, 3:06 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:



  You can have the wheels, all the other parts are sold that you were
  after.

  On May 13, 12:50 pm, RJM rjme...@gmail.com wrote:

   I will take the wheels, bar, shifters and thumbies.

   On May 13, 2:01 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:

Cages: Nitto R and Electra/Nitto knockoff cage $50 for Nitto $15 for
Electra
Stem: Specialized/Nitto Dirt Drop $20
Bars: Sycip Singles Bar $25
Shifters: Shimano 8 speed and Paul mounts mounted upside down. $80
(recently switched to silver mounts)
Brakes: Shimano XT High Profile and VO Hangers $30
Front Der: Shimano Ultegra $20
Cranks: Sugino XD2 triple 175mm 24/39/43 I also have a Sugino 40,
never got the rings I really wanted easy fix. $75
Wheels: 650B Synergy laced to LX hubs, built by Rich. $220

   http://www.flickr.com/photos/willhrtn/sets/72157625721858877/

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Racer vs Ruffy Tuffy

2011-05-16 Thread Patrick in VT
On May 16, 5:49 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:

 Interesting. That hasn't been my experience with the Grifo XS at all.

I like the XS, especially the tubular (although I do get some tread
peeling)!  i've done a bunch of cyclocross racing on it, and it
probably is preferable on trails to a slick.  but dirt roads mean
something different to me than trails, and I don't need tread there.
and i still don't recommend putting a file tread with side knobs (or
any tire with side knobs) on the limit on pavement - with nothing to
bite into, it can easily skip its way out from under you.



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[RBW] Re: FS: Parts I am selling from Bombadil

2011-05-16 Thread williwoods
Oops I also forgot to list the BB. Its an Interloc Racing BB. 68x? $20

worked perfectly with the cranks on my Riv. Once I start disassembling
the bike this weekend I will post what the actual measurements are on
the BB.

Will

On May 16, 4:22 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Here is what is still available:

 Cages: Nitto R and Electra/Nitto knockoff cage $50 for Nitto $15 for
 Electra
 Front Der: Shimano Ultegra $20
 Cranks: Sugino XD2 triple 175mm 24/39/43 I also have a Sugino 40,
 never got the rings I really wanted easy fix. $75

 and a few other items I was holding on to but decided to pass along.

 Headset: Cane Creek Classic 100 1  $70
 Saddle: Brooks B-17 Special $90
 Rear Der: Shimano Ultegra High normal $75
 Pedals: Suntour Superbe Pro. $55
 Toe Clips: MKS L Half clips with leather. $15
 Fenders: VO Zeppelin 55mm $25

 On May 13, 3:08 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:



  Stem, Bars and shifters are sold.

  waiting to hear back about the wheels from RJM

  On May 13, 3:06 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:

   You can have the wheels, all the other parts are sold that you were
   after.

   On May 13, 12:50 pm, RJM rjme...@gmail.com wrote:

I will take the wheels, bar, shifters and thumbies.

On May 13, 2:01 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Cages: Nitto R and Electra/Nitto knockoff cage $50 for Nitto $15 for
 Electra
 Stem: Specialized/Nitto Dirt Drop $20
 Bars: Sycip Singles Bar $25
 Shifters: Shimano 8 speed and Paul mounts mounted upside down. $80
 (recently switched to silver mounts)
 Brakes: Shimano XT High Profile and VO Hangers $30
 Front Der: Shimano Ultegra $20
 Cranks: Sugino XD2 triple 175mm 24/39/43 I also have a Sugino 40,
 never got the rings I really wanted easy fix. $75
 Wheels: 650B Synergy laced to LX hubs, built by Rich. $220

http://www.flickr.com/photos/willhrtn/sets/72157625721858877/

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread Way Rebb
I've used the Supremes (35s) for 1.5 years now.   With the other tires
the first flat got a nice laugh from the folks at work: Don't you
love bikes? HaHa, by the third flat they weren't laughing anymore:
g, is this gonna be a habit?!.  Put on Supremes and voila...no
more flats on the commute.  Since you are going from Marathon Plus to
Supreme I think adjectives like lively and plush can be used to
describe the Supremes.  Bike handling descriptions really depends on
ones perspective...anyhow, I'd like to try the Duremes but the
Supremes have a lot if life left.

On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:
 Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
 Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.

 I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
 the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
 rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.

 I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
 personal experience?

 Mitch
 San Luis Obispo, CA

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread charlie
I have the 700x40's and love them. For me they roll fast at 70psi rear
and 65 psi front. I weigh about 260 now and need the wide tire. They
seem as fast as my other bike with 32 mm Panaracer Ribmo's @ 90 psi.
I think it depends on your weight but lets face it, there is only a
few mm difference. I say go wide with pride.

On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:
 Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
 Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.

 I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
 the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
 rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.

 I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
 personal experience?

 Mitch
 San Luis Obispo, CA

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread EricP
Have mostly had a set of 700x40 on the Hillborne.  The tires are very
reliable.   There are times when they do seem sluggish as Andrew Hill
states.  Still can't figure it out as the tire seems light enough.
Might be the casing.  Usually have the tires inflated to 40 front
45-50 rear.  Am 225 with high bars so more weight on the rear (of the
bike, that is).

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On May 16, 7:02 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I have the 700x40's and love them. For me they roll fast at 70psi rear
 and 65 psi front. I weigh about 260 now and need the wide tire. They
 seem as fast as my other bike with 32 mm Panaracer Ribmo's @ 90 psi.
 I think it depends on your weight but lets face it, there is only a
 few mm difference. I say go wide with pride.

 On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:







  Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
  47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
  Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
  1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.

  I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
  47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
  the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
  rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.

  I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
  personal experience?

  Mitch
  San Luis Obispo, CA

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread doug peterson
Mitch:

I've used Marathon Supremes exclusively on my Atlants for several
years  love 'em.  Long wear  less than 1 flat per tire on average.
Yes they are expensive but you won't be disappointed.

On your question regarding fender clearance, I posted some
measurements I took yesterday when I changed out worn 35s for a 40 
50 mix.  The 35s measure 27-1/2 OD; 40s are 28; and the 50s are
28-1/2.  I know that sounds too tidy but it's close enough for
tires.  All at 50 psi on Mavic A-719 rim.

IIRC, on an Atlantis there's plenty of room for pretty much any 35
with a fender and a 40 will probably work as well.  Might give Riv a
call to see what they think, since they have both products.

FWIW, wow, that 50 on the back is BIG!  I gotta look up the weight but
it's a pretty noticeable change from the 35.  Might take some getting
used to.

dougP

On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:
 Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
 Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.

 I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
 the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
 rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.

 I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
 personal experience?

 Mitch
 San Luis Obispo, CA

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread Zaelia
Now considering the Grand Bois Randonneur handlebars. I measured my
Nitto 115s when I got home tonight and, center-to-center, they measure
38cm at the hoods and 42 cm at the drops. The Compass Bicycle website
(http://www.compasscycle.com/Handlebars.html) shows these are 38.5 cm
(385 mm) at the ramps and 41 cm (410 cm) at the drops (center-to-
center). So, unless I measured incorrectly (totally possible), they're
virtually the same, except for reach and drop, and the GB Rando has
these both in the range I was looking for...

Charlie wrote I have the Nitto Rando bars also and will use them on
my New Simple One..just keep in mind that at the hoods they are
much narrower. I think mine measure something like 38 or 39 cm.

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread charlie
You need more air, try 60 psi. I realized one day that I hadn't
checked the pressure and was riding with 50-55 psi on pavement and
they felt sluggish. A mere 10 psi more made a noticeable difference.

On May 16, 7:02 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Have mostly had a set of 700x40 on the Hillborne.  The tires are very
 reliable.   There are times when they do seem sluggish as Andrew Hill
 states.  Still can't figure it out as the tire seems light enough.
 Might be the casing.  Usually have the tires inflated to 40 front
 45-50 rear.  Am 225 with high bars so more weight on the rear (of the
 bike, that is).

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On May 16, 7:02 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:







  I have the 700x40's and love them. For me they roll fast at 70psi rear
  and 65 psi front. I weigh about 260 now and need the wide tire. They
  seem as fast as my other bike with 32 mm Panaracer Ribmo's @ 90 psi.
  I think it depends on your weight but lets face it, there is only a
  few mm difference. I say go wide with pride.

  On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:

   Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
   47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
   Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
   1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.

   I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
   47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
   the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
   rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.

   I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
   personal experience?

   Mitch
   San Luis Obispo, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread erik jensen
i use 40mm supremes everywhere, wonderful tires. gone through two sets. a
smooth tire that handles anything i might care to ride across offroad? yes
please.

erik
-- 
oakland, ca
bikenoir.blogspot.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread andrew hill
I inflate them to around 65psi, and still find them sluggish.

best,
andrew

On May 16, 2011, at 9:45 PM, charlie wrote:

 You need more air, try 60 psi. I realized one day that I hadn't
 checked the pressure and was riding with 50-55 psi on pavement and
 they felt sluggish. A mere 10 psi more made a noticeable difference.
 
 On May 16, 7:02 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Have mostly had a set of 700x40 on the Hillborne.  The tires are very
 reliable.   There are times when they do seem sluggish as Andrew Hill
 states.  Still can't figure it out as the tire seems light enough.
 Might be the casing.  Usually have the tires inflated to 40 front
 45-50 rear.  Am 225 with high bars so more weight on the rear (of the
 bike, that is).
 
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN
 
 On May 16, 7:02 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I have the 700x40's and love them. For me they roll fast at 70psi rear
 and 65 psi front. I weigh about 260 now and need the wide tire. They
 seem as fast as my other bike with 32 mm Panaracer Ribmo's @ 90 psi.
 I think it depends on your weight but lets face it, there is only a
 few mm difference. I say go wide with pride.
 
 On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
 47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
 Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
 1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.
 
 I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
 47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
 the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
 rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.
 
 I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
 personal experience?
 
 Mitch
 San Luis Obispo, CA
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Marathon Supreme Input please

2011-05-16 Thread erik jensen
i am not a racer, but they are great expedition tires and plenty fast enough
to pass lycra-folks on the road when i happen upon it.

erik

On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 9:57 PM, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:

 I inflate them to around 65psi, and still find them sluggish.

 best,
 andrew

 On May 16, 2011, at 9:45 PM, charlie wrote:

  You need more air, try 60 psi. I realized one day that I hadn't
  checked the pressure and was riding with 50-55 psi on pavement and
  they felt sluggish. A mere 10 psi more made a noticeable difference.
 
  On May 16, 7:02 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
  Have mostly had a set of 700x40 on the Hillborne.  The tires are very
  reliable.   There are times when they do seem sluggish as Andrew Hill
  states.  Still can't figure it out as the tire seems light enough.
  Might be the casing.  Usually have the tires inflated to 40 front
  45-50 rear.  Am 225 with high bars so more weight on the rear (of the
  bike, that is).
 
  Eric Platt
  St. Paul, MN
 
  On May 16, 7:02 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  I have the 700x40's and love them. For me they roll fast at 70psi rear
  and 65 psi front. I weigh about 260 now and need the wide tire. They
  seem as fast as my other bike with 32 mm Panaracer Ribmo's @ 90 psi.
  I think it depends on your weight but lets face it, there is only a
  few mm difference. I say go wide with pride.
 
  On May 16, 7:39 am, Mitch Browne mitch.bro...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Currently commute daily 16 miles round trip on my 58 Atlantis with
  47mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires.  I've been pretty happy with the
  Schwalbes and have them on an XO-1 26x1.25 , Expedition, and Miyata
  1000 700x32's mostly for lazy flat protection.
 
  I've ordered a set of long board fenders that won't accomodate the
  47's. I am trying to decide on 700x35 or 700x40 Marathon Supremes for
  the summer at least. I like the bigger  tires since I fear no root,
  rock, or limb on my mostly flat ride in.
 
  I want to order the Supremes this week, can anyone share their
  personal experience?
 
  Mitch
  San Luis Obispo, CA
 
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-- 
oakland, ca
bikenoir.blogspot.com

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[RBW] Re: Simple dreaming

2011-05-16 Thread Jeffrey
Patrick -
Thanks for the heads up about the front loading - I hadn't considered
that and am not married to a front bag. I'll consider a large saddle
bag. I'm starting with the Alba bar 'cuz I have one here, and will try
a Mustache and then drop if needed. I am also considering the S-A 3XS
(fixed) and will post when I've got and ridden either one. So many
excellent choices! Suggestions welcome - new to this stuff, really.

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread tomm
One thing that works to prevent neck stiffness for me is to completely
relax my upper body - it takes lots of practice actually.  My fit on
my AHH (with 42 cm Noodles) is such that I have a natural bend in my
arms and my scapulas aren't popping out of my back (not that I could
see this anyway, but I can feel it when my body is tensed up it feels
like my scapulas are protruding).  I see lots of riders out there with
their arms stiff and straight at the hoods, scapulas popping out, and
over the years I have figured any upper body stiffness I get from
riding seems to correlate with how tense my upper body is and I think
that is directly correlated to the cockpit fit I have dialed in at the
time.  My experience with albatross bars seems to exaggerate this even
more - creating a natural bend in my arms and naturally relaxing my
body - I think its more the relaxation in my arms rather than being
more upright.  When my bars are 1-2 cm above my saddle with my
Noodles, it helps alleviate almost all the pressure in my palms and
hands and can naturally bend my arms a bit to get into relax mode.

You mentioned Harris Cyclery so if you're in the Metro Boston area,
the fitters at Ace Wheelworks in Belmont do a darn good job.  Plus you
can lust after Peter Mooney's lugged steel he has hanging around the
shop...which I just noticed a couple weeks back that he's got a flickr
page now

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petermooney/

There's lots of carbon forks in there so just close your eye when they
pop up.

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[RBW] Re: First S24O to Sam P. Taylor with photos.

2011-05-16 Thread islaysteve
Very nice, Naz.  Your photos make me envious and homesick for
California. Is that a VO Polyvalent?  Steve


On May 16, 2:23 pm, Naz Hamid absen...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi,

 Thought I'd make a proper post as I'm a long-time lurker and reply-er
 but never first time poster.

 A few friends and I have all recently reached that point in our
 cycling lives where we've sold or barely ride our track bikes, where
 the road bikes see less and less use and our racings days are long
 gone and the interest is in purely remembering how much fun the first
 time we rode bicycles was like. We've all collectively encouraged each
 other to build up Riv-ish bikes (though, aside from my wife, none of
 us have a Riv — a Bob Jackson, an old Gitane and a Velo Orange) and
 being in the Bay Area finally decided we'd take these lovely bikes and
 go bike camping for the first time.

 I won't bore you with a soliloquy on how much of a wonderful weekend
 it was, with moments of pure child-like joy and wonderment (at least
 in my mind) and the feeling of the freedom that comes with riding a
 bike.

 Thus, photos:http://www.flickr.com/photos/absenter/sets/72157626701948778/

 Cheers!
 Naz.

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread BCDrums


On May 15, 7:36 pm, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
 Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
 there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
 optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
 individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
 hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
 sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
 everything would click into place.

 Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
 I'm learning, but it's slow going.

 So with that in mind...

 I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
 first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
 improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
 pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
 neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
 shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
 that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
 changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.

 It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
 drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
 feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
 fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
 perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
 that I would not find anything like this in the retro style. I
 suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
 bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
 anything with a medium to shallow drop.

 At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
 couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
 for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
 mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
 mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a similar construction
 and finish to model 115 (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this similar
 construction means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
 website does not specify.

 So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
 with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
 stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
 for hand positions.

 The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
 for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
 Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
 hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
 a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
 Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
 45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
 in and get the 45 cm... ?

 Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone
 will read it and offer their thoughts and/or experiences. I'd be
 interested to read what others have to say.

 Thanks,
 Zaelia

I tried a Nitto Randonneur  and liked it. I got the wider version; the
narrow version seemed -too- narrow at the hoods. But the drop was
still more than I wanted. I have switched to the On One Midge, which
has a shallower drop than the Nitto.
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/HBOOMI/on-one-midge-handlebar

It's an odd bar. The drops are not vertical, they flare out quite a
bit, so the brake levers are not parallel to the stem at all. Do an
images search for it to see what I mean. But I like its shallow drop
and width.

I have seen pictures of the Salsa Moto Ace Woodchipper, and it looks
very wide and shallow, wider than the Midge:
http://salsacycles.com/components/moto_ace_woodchipper/

A disadvantage to the Midge is that shipping from the UK about doubles
its cost.

BC
barred

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