[RBW] FS: Late Spring Cleaning

2011-05-21 Thread Corwin Zechar
It's amazing how much stuff you collect over a few years. I have gone
through my parts bin and various other cubbyholes around my house where
parts and accessories seem to gather.

All prices include shipping. If you are interested in something and think my
price is out of line - please let me know. I am not looking to make a lot of
money here. Mainly looking to put this stuff in the hands of people that
will use it well. If I included the phrase cost of shipping in an item, I
mean to convey that I am only trying to recoup the shipping cost. If you
happen to be local to the SF Bay area (either temporarily or long term), and
we can negotiate a transfer, I am happy to give the items denoted by cost
of shipping away. Sorry if you're not local. Please reply off-list.

  Berthoud Cork Saddle $200
 Has perhaps 150 miles on it. I can't find a blemish anywhere. I don't
treat my saddles with Proofhide or anything else.

  Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem - $40
Mounted, ridden less than 50 miles. Includes shim. Not a scratch
anywhere.

  Brand V Boxy Bar Bag - $65
 Used during the Grizzly Peak Century. No stains, rips, tears, etc.

  Oakley M-Frame Sunglasses - $75
 Includes vented Fire Iridium lens, clear lens and grey polarized lens,
hard case lined with foam and polishing cloth

  Pair of Maillard 36 hole Hubs (cost of shipping) $20
 Bought these from a list memeber several years back (in the days before
the Google Group). Front/rear spacing appears to be 100/126mm.

  Topeak QR Beam Rack (cost of shipping) $20
Mounts on the seat post. Holds up to about 20 lbs. I had this
Quick-Release Beam Rack mounted on my Quickbeam.

  Shimano 50, 34 tooth chainrings (cost of shipping) $20
 Came from a 110 BCD crankset. Ramped and pinned. Unused.

  Sturmey Archer AW hub (cost of shipping) $20
I bought this hub used; have never laced it up. Not sure how well it
works.

  Sun CR18 650A Rims (cost of shpping) $30
These are the 590mm/26 x 1 3/8 rims you find on old three speeds. Except
they are aluminum alloy instead of chromed steel. Unused. Never laced.

  Mavic MA3 700C Rims $50
Bought these to go with the Maillard hubs. Unused. Never laced.

  Ritchey 10cm Threadless stem (cost of shipping) $20
Looks to be about a 10 degree rise.

  BM Lumotec Oval Plus Headlight (cost of shipping)
This came off a Breezer Villager. It may need a new bulb. Not sure how
well it works.

Pictures may be found here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Ernfast/FSLateSpringCleaning#

Thanks for looking.


Corwin

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[RBW] FS: Late Spring Cleaning

2011-05-21 Thread Corwin Zechar
It's amazing how much stuff you collect over a few years. I have gone
through my parts bin and various other cubbyholes around my house where
parts and accessories seem to gather.

All prices include shipping. If you are interested in something and think my
price is out of line - please let me know. I am not looking to make a lot of
money here. Mainly looking to put this stuff in the hands of people that
will use it well. If I included the phrase cost of shipping in an item, I
mean to convey that I am only trying to recoup the shipping cost. If you
happen to be local to the SF Bay area (either temporarily or long term), and
we can negotiate a transfer, I am happy to give the items denoted by cost
of shipping away. Sorry if you're not local. Please reply off-list.

  Berthoud Cork Saddle $200
 Has perhaps 150 miles on it. I can't find a blemish anywhere. I don't
treat my saddles with Proofhide or anything else.

  Nitto 13cm UI-5GX Threadless Stem - $40
Mounted, ridden less than 50 miles. Includes shim. Not a scratch
anywhere.

  Brand V Boxy Bar Bag - $65
 Used during the Grizzly Peak Century. No stains, rips, tears, etc.

  Oakley M-Frame Sunglasses - $75
 Includes vented Fire Iridium lens, clear lens and grey polarized lens,
hard case lined with foam and polishing cloth

  Pair of Maillard 36 hole Hubs (cost of shipping) $20
 Bought these from a list memeber several years back (in the days before
the Google Group). Front/rear spacing appears to be 100/126mm.

  Topeak QR Beam Rack (cost of shipping) $20
Mounts on the seat post. Holds up to about 20 lbs. I had this
Quick-Release Beam Rack mounted on my Quickbeam.

  Shimano 50, 34 tooth chainrings (cost of shipping) $20
 Came from a 110 BCD crankset. Ramped and pinned. Unused.

  Sturmey Archer AW hub (cost of shipping) $20
I bought this hub used; have never laced it up. Not sure how well it
works.

  Sun CR18 650A Rims (cost of shpping) $30
These are the 590mm/26 x 1 3/8 rims you find on old three speeds. Except
they are aluminum alloy instead of chromed steel. Unused. Never laced.

  Mavic MA3 700C Rims $50
Bought these to go with the Maillard hubs. Unused. Never laced.

  Ritchey 10cm Threadless stem (cost of shipping) $20
Looks to be about a 10 degree rise.

  BM Lumotec Oval Plus Headlight (cost of shipping)
This came off a Breezer Villager. It may need a new bulb. Not sure how
well it works.

Pictures may be found here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Ernfast/FSLateSpringCleaning#

Thanks for looking.


Corwin

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread Zaelia
Over the past week I have been consciously paying attention to my body
and reminding myself to relax. Thanks to those on this list who made
that suggestion. I do believe this has helped. I was doing this, but I
don't think I was really doing it well. I was focusing on some parts
of my body but not focusing on others.

I have also come to accept the fact that my general fitness,
flexibility and strength, or lack thereof, are likely contributing
factors. I will be looking into this in more detail.

A week ago, I returned to the first fitter to see about the final
pieces of my fit. Again, his suggestion was a longer stem and/or a
handlebar with a longer reach and medium to shallow drop because I was
bunched up up top. Without telling the whole story, he also raised my
handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of
alignment). This put everything out of whack and I was back to having
pain almost everywhere. I think I'm done with that fitter.

Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed
everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they
lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). They said my cleats were both too far
forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and
they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit,
I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and
arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5
hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary
pedalling). For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands,
they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to
adjust. I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to
where I was before the first fitting, but I'll ride with this setup
and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the
toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was
wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new
shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this
tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist?

Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/
handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars
with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and
get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing
results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that
everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about
the drops.

So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and
frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and
I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's
why I started the fitting back in the fall. But this is where I find
myself, so we'll see what happens.

Thanks for reading and for letting me know your experiences and
thoughts.

Hope you have a great weekend, riding your bike?, wherever you are.
Zaelia



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[RBW] Re: Looking for a 57 or 55cm Bleriot...

2011-05-21 Thread S.Cutshall
Okay...
Have leads on a 57  55 (fellas with those--didn't forget about either
of you, just was waiting until I had a Professional bike-fitting,
which I had earlier today)...

The 57 won't work, the 55 will and would now like to up the ante of
possibility by adding: any chance someone has a 53cm Bleriot frameset
that they want to sell or trade?

Seems the 53 would be optimal and the 55 very doable.

So any 53 owners out there?

Please email me and let's talk (I'll wait a few days and if no dice,
Jason I would like to talk about your 55).

Thanks much:

-Scott

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sat, 2011-05-21 at 00:29 -0700, Zaelia wrote:

 Without telling the whole story, he also raised my
 handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of
 alignment). 

???  What on earth does that mean?  

 
 Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed
 everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they
 lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). 

What?  That is hugely drastic.  It shouldn't be possible for two fitters
to so disagree on correct seat height.  Generally, I find the heel on
pedal, leg fully extended gives me a good height when my foot's in the
proper position for pedaling.


 They said my cleats were both too far
 forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and
 they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit,
 I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and
 arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5
 hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary
 pedalling).

Now that cannot be a good sign.

 For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands,
 they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to
 adjust. 

Memory???   Sounds like pure bollocks to me.  


 I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to
 where I was before the first fitting, 

I think you have every right to be apprehensive.  Screaming out loud in
terror wouldn't be all that inappropriate.


 but I'll ride with this setup
 and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the
 toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was
 wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new
 shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this
 tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist?

So let me get this straight.  Before the change in cleat position, no
tingling in the toes.  They change the cleats, your toes start tingling,
and the answer is buy new shoes or see a podiatrist?  What is wrong with
this picture?

 Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/
 handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars
 with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and
 get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing
 results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that
 everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about
 the drops.
 
 So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and
 frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and
 I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's
 why I started the fitting back in the fall. But this is where I find
 myself, so we'll see what happens.

Disappointing, to be sure.

How's the new position square with this:
http://peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm ?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Zaelia: I'm sorry to hear about the confusion. Can you post a photo or two of

1) a profile of you on the hoods,
2) in the hooks,
3) Of your camera-side leg at full pedal extension?

I know that this will be hard to do, but if these photos could be
taken while you are pedaling at a normal rate and torque, that would
help.

At least photos of you sitting as above and supported by a wall or friend.

I know that different people have different needs, but I have been so
successful myself in creating a comfortable bar by putting my saddle
far back that, again, I wonder if your saddle is simply too far
foward?

In my own case, my bars stay resolutely fixed -- I hardly ever adjust
them once I get them right; it is my saddle and cleats that I am
continually adjusting.

FWIW, I am 56 and while generally fit do little in the way of upper
body exercise.

On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 1:29 AM, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
 Over the past week I have been consciously paying attention to my body
 and reminding myself to relax. Thanks to those on this list who made
 that suggestion. I do believe this has helped. I was doing this, but I
 don't think I was really doing it well. I was focusing on some parts
 of my body but not focusing on others.

 I have also come to accept the fact that my general fitness,
 flexibility and strength, or lack thereof, are likely contributing
 factors. I will be looking into this in more detail.

 A week ago, I returned to the first fitter to see about the final
 pieces of my fit. Again, his suggestion was a longer stem and/or a
 handlebar with a longer reach and medium to shallow drop because I was
 bunched up up top. Without telling the whole story, he also raised my
 handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of
 alignment). This put everything out of whack and I was back to having
 pain almost everywhere. I think I'm done with that fitter.

 Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed
 everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they
 lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). They said my cleats were both too far
 forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and
 they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit,
 I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and
 arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5
 hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary
 pedalling). For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands,
 they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to
 adjust. I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to
 where I was before the first fitting, but I'll ride with this setup
 and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the
 toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was
 wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new
 shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this
 tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist?

 Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/
 handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars
 with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and
 get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing
 results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that
 everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about
 the drops.

 So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and
 frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and
 I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's
 why I started the fitting back in the fall. But this is where I find
 myself, so we'll see what happens.

 Thanks for reading and for letting me know your experiences and
 thoughts.

 Hope you have a great weekend, riding your bike?, wherever you are.
 Zaelia



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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I forgot to include these:

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5573667399477615730

versus

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5597420339650159730

and perhaps a golden mean

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/HerseComplete051811?authkey=Gv1sRgCN3SqfugksuC1QE#5609160993638820482

My point in posting these is not to recommend such positions as to
show that, with the right saddle setup -- for the saddles on all three
bikes are more or less identically set up with relationship to the bb
and pedals -- you can get comfortable -- or, at least I can get
comfortable -- with bars of hugely different heights and widths (46
Noodles on Fargo, 38-9 Belleris on Herse, 42 cm 185s on Riv).

FWIW.

On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 1:29 AM, Zaelia caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
 Over the past week I have been consciously paying attention to my body
 and reminding myself to relax. Thanks to those on this list who made
 that suggestion. I do believe this has helped. I was doing this, but I
 don't think I was really doing it well. I was focusing on some parts
 of my body but not focusing on others.

 I have also come to accept the fact that my general fitness,
 flexibility and strength, or lack thereof, are likely contributing
 factors. I will be looking into this in more detail.

 A week ago, I returned to the first fitter to see about the final
 pieces of my fit. Again, his suggestion was a longer stem and/or a
 handlebar with a longer reach and medium to shallow drop because I was
 bunched up up top. Without telling the whole story, he also raised my
 handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of
 alignment). This put everything out of whack and I was back to having
 pain almost everywhere. I think I'm done with that fitter.

 Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed
 everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they
 lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). They said my cleats were both too far
 forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and
 they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit,
 I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and
 arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5
 hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary
 pedalling). For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands,
 they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to
 adjust. I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to
 where I was before the first fitting, but I'll ride with this setup
 and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the
 toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was
 wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new
 shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this
 tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist?

 Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/
 handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars
 with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and
 get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing
 results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that
 everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about
 the drops.

 So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and
 frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and
 I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's
 why I started the fitting back in the fall. But this is where I find
 myself, so we'll see what happens.

 Thanks for reading and for letting me know your experiences and
 thoughts.

 Hope you have a great weekend, riding your bike?, wherever you are.
 Zaelia



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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread newenglandbike
Zaelia, sorry to hear about your troubles with getting the right bike
fit.

That being said, please read the remainder of this message
understanding that it is rather biased :)   I am extremely skeptical
of professional bike fitting.

I think you're better off just getting the right leg extension (seat-
height), and then playing around with bar and saddle fore/aft postion
yourself until you're comfortable.The most important 'fitting'
session you can have is to ride a bike(!) carrying a 6mm wrench, and
adjust as necessary.   In fact, always carry that wrench, because even
after years of riding, you may decide you want your saddle 1cm forward
or backward or your bars higher/lower.

Stem length isn't something you can adjust easily without having
multiple stems (or an adjustable one), so best thing you can do is
leave your handlebars untaped until you have that settled.Of
course, as soon as you want to try different handlebars, your
preferred stem length goes out the window and you have to start over
again.

For saddle height, the best advise I've seen is, roughly:sit on
seat, fully extend leg, heel over pedal, should just barely touch.
Or, measure 'PBH' rivendell-style, i.e. pulling up as hard as
possible, then subtract 10cm, set seat-height there.Ride bike,
adjust as necessary (5mm hex wrench, or whatever size your seat collar
bolt).


Finally, keep in mind that bodies/minds change over time, so things
like desired saddle height and reach change over time for a given
individual.It is possible that changes will be more rapid and
pronounced if you are just getting into riding again after a long
break.Just take your time and ease into it, is the best advise I
can give.Start with short rides, but do them regularly. In my
humble opinion, doing 'big' rides before you have your fit/comfort
dialed-in is going to skew your understanding of your own fit/comfort
needs, and lead you down the wrong solution paths.


-Matt

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RE: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread jim phillips

Matt, that is exactly what I did with my Sam Hilborne. I got the seat right 
(height) then carried a wrench with me and adjusted the handlebar height. Then, 
seat fore and aft and finally rechecked the seat height. It took a few days of 
tweeking but the ride is very nice now and I at 60 wake up eacvh morning with a 
few aches and pains to start with. Don't need any extras while out looking at 
the beautiful women,.. ahem, I mean scenery! :^)

best,

JimP

 Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 06:56:22 -0700
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
 From: matthiasbe...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 
 Zaelia, sorry to hear about your troubles with getting the right bike
 fit.
 
 That being said, please read the remainder of this message
 understanding that it is rather biased :)   I am extremely skeptical
 of professional bike fitting.
 
 I think you're better off just getting the right leg extension (seat-
 height), and then playing around with bar and saddle fore/aft postion
 yourself until you're comfortable.The most important 'fitting'
 session you can have is to ride a bike(!) carrying a 6mm wrench, and
 adjust as necessary.   In fact, always carry that wrench, because even
 after years of riding, you may decide you want your saddle 1cm forward
 or backward or your bars higher/lower.
 
 Stem length isn't something you can adjust easily without having
 multiple stems (or an adjustable one), so best thing you can do is
 leave your handlebars untaped until you have that settled.Of
 course, as soon as you want to try different handlebars, your
 preferred stem length goes out the window and you have to start over
 again.
 
 For saddle height, the best advise I've seen is, roughly:sit on
 seat, fully extend leg, heel over pedal, should just barely touch.
 Or, measure 'PBH' rivendell-style, i.e. pulling up as hard as
 possible, then subtract 10cm, set seat-height there.Ride bike,
 adjust as necessary (5mm hex wrench, or whatever size your seat collar
 bolt).
 
 
 Finally, keep in mind that bodies/minds change over time, so things
 like desired saddle height and reach change over time for a given
 individual.It is possible that changes will be more rapid and
 pronounced if you are just getting into riding again after a long
 break.Just take your time and ease into it, is the best advise I
 can give.Start with short rides, but do them regularly. In my
 humble opinion, doing 'big' rides before you have your fit/comfort
 dialed-in is going to skew your understanding of your own fit/comfort
 needs, and lead you down the wrong solution paths.
 
 
 -Matt
 
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[RBW] Re: Looking for a 57 or 55cm Bleriot...

2011-05-21 Thread Justin August
I have a 55. You would fit right or be a bit big on it. I have a 55
and the top tube fits well.

-Justin

On May 21, 4:30 am, S.Cutshall clotht...@gmail.com wrote:
 Okay...
 Have leads on a 57  55 (fellas with those--didn't forget about either
 of you, just was waiting until I had a Professional bike-fitting,
 which I had earlier today)...

 The 57 won't work, the 55 will and would now like to up the ante of
 possibility by adding: any chance someone has a 53cm Bleriot frameset
 that they want to sell or trade?

 Seems the 53 would be optimal and the 55 very doable.

 So any 53 owners out there?

 Please email me and let's talk (I'll wait a few days and if no dice,
 Jason I would like to talk about your 55).

 Thanks much:

 -Scott

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[RBW] Re: Looking for a 57 or 55cm Bleriot...

2011-05-21 Thread Brett Lindenbach
 Most bike shops will recommend smaller frames than Rivendell would.  My guess 
is that if you were able to ride a 59, a 53 will be too small. Go with the 55.  
You're lucky to have found it if it works for you. 

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[RBW] Looking to Trade: My 48 Nitto Noodles for your 42's...

2011-05-21 Thread S.Cutshall
Subject says it all: I've got 48's and I'd like to trade them for
Nitto Noodles in the 42 size.

Please email me if interested in a swap.

Thanks-

-Scott

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[RBW] Re: Davinci splitters for cockpit swap

2011-05-21 Thread Zack

Thank you guys for all the input.

Great stuff. I ordered the couplers this weekend. They'll be ready for
me to install when I take delivery of the Sam in 7 weeks or so.

Seems pretty do-able. I am having riv set me up with albatross bars on
the build. I think I'll ride those a ton this summer/fall, and then
when I want to switch back to noodles, I'll set the splitters up.

Truly appreciate all the help.
On May 20, 8:04 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Pictures

 bike, for context:http://db.tt/6IUOZ4r
 splitter placement:http://db.tt/T0BGzNh

 (scan back from stop on top tube; look just ahead of E in Hillborne on down 
 tube)

 I note that the black coloring (presumably anodized) on the splitters appears 
 to be wearing away.

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking

2011-05-21 Thread Mike S
I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing
with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want
them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more
grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time
to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two
hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/
patience to mess with these anymore.

I love the platform of the Gripkings and I don't think it can be beat,
but I am really disappointed with the quality of the seals and the
high maintenance that they seem to require. I've looked all over for
another platform pedal with BIG surface area and good performance
without straps, and the best option looks like the V.O City or Touring
Pedal. I like the idea of sealed cartridge bearings, being that I ride
in the rain a lot, and I have very little patience for overhaul-type
maintenance.

I wanted to know if any of you all have experience using the V.O city
or touring pedals. I would like the wider platform of the touring
pedal, but I am concerned about cornering clearance with the touring,
as these would be for my fixie QB, and I have chewed up the GK's some,
even with their excellent clearance.

The bottom line is I want a smooth and reliable pedal that offers
maximum surface area (size 13.5 here), good grip without clips or
straps, and good cornering clearance for fixed riding. I appreciate
your opinions.

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[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking

2011-05-21 Thread Bill M.
I have a pair of the VO Touring pedals.  No issues so far, they spin
nice and smooth, though they haven't seen significant rain.  I wear a
size 9 and use toe clips, so while I find them comfortable and plenty
grippy, your feet may vary.

The City pedals would have more cornering clearance, but a smaller
platform for your feet.  The GK's get around that by being relatively
narrow much longer than traditional pedals.

I'm with you on low-maintenance parts, but with practice overhauling
loose-bearing parts gets easier and faster.  If the GK's are
comfortable for you, it might be more cost effective to have a shop
overhaul them than buying new pedals.  Make sure they use a good
waterproof grease like a boat trailer axle grease to give them a
fighting chance in the rain.

Bill

On May 21, 8:33 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing
 with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want
 them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more
 grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time
 to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two
 hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/
 patience to mess with these anymore.

 I love the platform of the Gripkings and I don't think it can be beat,
 but I am really disappointed with the quality of the seals and the
 high maintenance that they seem to require. I've looked all over for
 another platform pedal with BIG surface area and good performance
 without straps, and the best option looks like the V.O City or Touring
 Pedal. I like the idea of sealed cartridge bearings, being that I ride
 in the rain a lot, and I have very little patience for overhaul-type
 maintenance.

 I wanted to know if any of you all have experience using the V.O city
 or touring pedals. I would like the wider platform of the touring
 pedal, but I am concerned about cornering clearance with the touring,
 as these would be for my fixie QB, and I have chewed up the GK's some,
 even with their excellent clearance.

 The bottom line is I want a smooth and reliable pedal that offers
 maximum surface area (size 13.5 here), good grip without clips or
 straps, and good cornering clearance for fixed riding. I appreciate
 your opinions.

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[RBW] Bicycle Eye Candy

2011-05-21 Thread Jim Cloud
I came across this stem, made by Nitto for Tokyo Fixed (a UK company)
while cruising some blogs:

http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/products/120-Stems---Quill/3879-Nitto---Craft-Stem/

Obviously not a cheap component, but very nice.  It reminded me of
some of the early Cinelli stems.

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

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Re: [RBW] Bicycle Eye Candy

2011-05-21 Thread cyclotourist
Beautiful...


On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 9:37 PM, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:

 I came across this stem, made by Nitto for Tokyo Fixed (a UK company)
 while cruising some blogs:


 http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/products/120-Stems---Quill/3879-Nitto---Craft-Stem/

 Obviously not a cheap component, but very nice.  It reminded me of
 some of the early Cinelli stems.

 Jim Cloud
 Tucson, AZ

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: V.O City/Touring Pedal Vs. Gripking

2011-05-21 Thread rob markwardt
I have a pair of VO touring pedals on my Rambouillet and have been
very happy with them. Nice, wide, smooth...no adjustments needed (I
ride in LOTS of rain...sad to say).  I also have three pairs of MKS
touring pedals on other bikes and I really like them.  You do have to
put grease in them out of the box but I've found that once you do that
they are good to go for a long time...probably not good for a fixed
gear but they are very comfortable.


On May 21, 8:33 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 I recently overhauled the bearings on my Gripkings (first time messing
 with ball bearings ever) and they are not spinning quite like I'd want
 them to. The right pedal, which I did second and I think put more
 grease on and did more carefully, is having a bit of a click from time
 to time, which I've seen mentioned in other posts here. It took my two
 hours to do the whole procedure, and I just don't have the time/
 patience to mess with these anymore.

 I love the platform of the Gripkings and I don't think it can be beat,
 but I am really disappointed with the quality of the seals and the
 high maintenance that they seem to require. I've looked all over for
 another platform pedal with BIG surface area and good performance
 without straps, and the best option looks like the V.O City or Touring
 Pedal. I like the idea of sealed cartridge bearings, being that I ride
 in the rain a lot, and I have very little patience for overhaul-type
 maintenance.

 I wanted to know if any of you all have experience using the V.O city
 or touring pedals. I would like the wider platform of the touring
 pedal, but I am concerned about cornering clearance with the touring,
 as these would be for my fixie QB, and I have chewed up the GK's some,
 even with their excellent clearance.

 The bottom line is I want a smooth and reliable pedal that offers
 maximum surface area (size 13.5 here), good grip without clips or
 straps, and good cornering clearance for fixed riding. I appreciate
 your opinions.

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