Re: [RBW] Asymmetrical stays

2012-02-11 Thread robert zeidler
One offs and rarities. Love it.

On Saturday, February 11, 2012, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 Look at what I stumbled across on Flickr... A Bombadil with asymmetrical
stays...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/catt1788/6820927595/in/photostream/lightbox/

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Re: [RBW] Asymmetrical stays

2012-02-11 Thread Tom M
I remember reading somewhere that the stresses on the chain stays are 
unequal, so the asymmetrical stays make engineering sense, I think. I'm not 
an engineer.

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[RBW] Re: Need help deciding... Soma San Marcos or Revamp an 84 Trek 610...

2012-02-11 Thread trek610
Thanks Charlie - I hear you on the damage and tubing concerns.  I am lucky 
enough to have a frame builder local to me that is going to help me though 
this.  We have discussed the possibility of making a new fork.  If the 
frame has rust issues and other structural damage I will not move forward 
with it for sure.  The cost of adding cantis to a nice frame is pretty 
cheap - at least in my neck of the woods.  I was planning on painting it 
anyway, and have a resource to get that done on the cheap.

The trucker is a pig for sure - at least the way I have it setup.  Not sure 
if you looked at the pictures, but the Conti Contact 26 x 1.75 tires 
probably have something to do with that... but it was by design and I love 
the bike for it and what I use it for.  I have beat that thing fire 
roads occasionally and pulled a home made crappy cart with it.  It will 
stay as is.  Make no mistake - handling, feel, quickness i.e. sprightly 
would be the LAST descriptive term I would use.  Again - I love the bike 
and have pushed it thought a century or two.  I hope to have a better 
experience on long rides little or no load.  Maybe I am fixing my head, but 
my experience ridding other bikes has confirmed my belief of the rubenesque 
nature of the LHT.  Hopefully that dispels any vagueness I 
have previously conveyed.

Do I want a different bike - no revelation there.  I would be lying if I 
said no.  I am would have a garage full if my wife would not divorce me 
first.  I really hope to wind up with something different that what I have. 
 Perhaps something more special as it as hand built about 20 miles from 
where I live now.  Or it will be an abomination and I will learn a valuable 
lesson.  I am sure  the jury here will let me know there thoughts on that 
:-)

I like Grant and have leaned much about about bikes and subscribe to much 
his philosophy.  So much so that I purchased an XO-1 frame because I wanted 
a piece of that history and design perspective.  Riv undoubted makes 
wonderful bikes.  I can even say that I will own one in the future when I 
can swing it financially.  But that is not today.  

In terms of design, I wonder if there is any truth to the mystical nature 
of low trail 650B bikes.  Riv's do not (in my uneducated opinion) fall into 
this category.  There has been debate on this subject ad nausea already I 
will not pile on.  However - I believe there may be some truth to the 
hoopla and I want to find out for myself  on the cheap.

Charlie - thanks for your sage advice.  I appreciate your point of view.  It 
may as well be a Rivendell they are pretty nice for quite a few good 
reasons. - no doubt about that.  I envy you guys and your classy rides.

Cheers


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[RBW] 58cm Quickbeam FS

2012-02-11 Thread ageorgestew...@gmail.com
Timing is everything. I just purchased my QB used, when...a rare bike
I've been searching for (over a fairly extended period) has
unexpectedly become immediately available to me. I'm at that stage in
life where if something comes into the garage, something else must go
out.

So, my recently acquired orange QB is FS. It's a mostly standard Riv
build, with technomic stem and mustache bars. One very effective
upgrade - I swapped out the stock canti's for Grafton Speed
Controllers II (mine are magnesium, and a bike's worth run around $350
 up if you can find 'em). No heelstrike problems in rear, and awesome
stopping power with incredible modulation. The original owner
purchased an additional larger front ring and appropriately sized
chain, as well as a front rack (mounts to flat fork eyes) and canvas
bag. It currently wears Ritchey cross tires. I'll leave the choice of
saddle up to you.

The paint is near-perfect, apart from showing signs of wheel mounts,
and two mechanic-originated pinhead spots on the bb shell.

I've got over $1650 into it; it can be yours for $1450. If you don't
want the Grafton brakes, we can work out a substitute and price
adjustment. If you'd like a nearly-perfect Brooks B17, add $65. If it
has to be packaged and shipped, I'll have a great LBS do it for you at
cost.

Alistair

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[RBW] Re: Not So Quick Beam

2012-02-11 Thread Mark Fredrickson
How is the chain line? Are you running a double chainring up front or
a single? Does the bike coast in the stand better on one of the two
cogs on the DOS? Are you sure you have the correct width chain (3/32
I believe)? Could you stick a fixed cog on the flop side, even just
temporarily, to remove the freewheel from the equation?

Others are probably correct that tires may be your cure, but I'd check
the drive train as well.

Good luck!
- M

On Feb 10, 1:48 pm, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've really been loving the single speeding simplicity of my new-to-me QB,
 but it's not feeling particularly quick.
 I was expecting a slick, efficient, butter-smooth feel to the bike, but it
 seems a bit more like I'm riding through peanut butter. I'm finding I need
 to pedal on slight downhills that my Sam and LHT will accelerate while
 coasting down. Sluggish is about the only way to describe it.

 There are a couple of things I'm thinking, and would appreciate any advice:

 1) This is my first experience with an Albatross bar and the upright
 posture may be increasing my (already considerable) wind resistance more
 than I'm used to.

 2) I added a Dos Eno freewheel and it's got a pretty hefty amount of drag.
 When I have the bike in the stand, and spin the rear wheel in the forward,
 freewheeling, direction the cranks spin right along too. This doesn't
 happen with my cassette-equipped bikes. The wheel also doesn't coast (in
 the stand) nearly as long as my shimano cassette equipped bikes. Maybe this
 gets better over time? It's a brand new freewheel. I had a Shimano
 freewheel on it for a while, and the bike felt better, but could the Dos
 Eno really be that slow?

 3) The Jack Brown Blue/Open Sport wheels on the QB are close enough in
 weight to the Kojak/Dyads on my Sam that I don't think I'm noticing a
 radical difference in inertia. Tire pressures are checked and fine.

 4) This is my first ever single speed (if you don't count the Schwinn BMX
 bike I had when I was 12) - is there any trick to setting them up that I
 may not be aware of?  I read all of Sheldon's advice on the topic... my
 chainline seems fine (wouldn't matter coasting anyway) and the tension
 seems OK. The wheel is straight

 Thanks in advance for any help,

 Pete in CT
 SingleSixtySidepullSam... and Quick-ish-beam

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[RBW] Green Ram touch-up paint

2012-02-11 Thread danmc
Looking to do some touch-up on the new-to-me green Ram and was looking
for ideas on paint or nail polish that might work. The archives
mention Testors #1530 (so-so match) and a Sally Hansen polish but the
URL is dead. Any other good matches people have found?

Thanks

Dan

San Rafael, CA

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[RBW] Re: Not So Quick Beam

2012-02-11 Thread Frank Brose
First thing I do when a bike feels like a pig is start with the tires.

On Feb 10, 1:48 pm, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've really been loving the single speeding simplicity of my new-to-me QB,
 but it's not feeling particularly quick.
 I was expecting a slick, efficient, butter-smooth feel to the bike, but it
 seems a bit more like I'm riding through peanut butter. I'm finding I need
 to pedal on slight downhills that my Sam and LHT will accelerate while
 coasting down. Sluggish is about the only way to describe it.

 There are a couple of things I'm thinking, and would appreciate any advice:

 1) This is my first experience with an Albatross bar and the upright
 posture may be increasing my (already considerable) wind resistance more
 than I'm used to.

 2) I added a Dos Eno freewheel and it's got a pretty hefty amount of drag.
 When I have the bike in the stand, and spin the rear wheel in the forward,
 freewheeling, direction the cranks spin right along too. This doesn't
 happen with my cassette-equipped bikes. The wheel also doesn't coast (in
 the stand) nearly as long as my shimano cassette equipped bikes. Maybe this
 gets better over time? It's a brand new freewheel. I had a Shimano
 freewheel on it for a while, and the bike felt better, but could the Dos
 Eno really be that slow?

 3) The Jack Brown Blue/Open Sport wheels on the QB are close enough in
 weight to the Kojak/Dyads on my Sam that I don't think I'm noticing a
 radical difference in inertia. Tire pressures are checked and fine.

 4) This is my first ever single speed (if you don't count the Schwinn BMX
 bike I had when I was 12) - is there any trick to setting them up that I
 may not be aware of?  I read all of Sheldon's advice on the topic... my
 chainline seems fine (wouldn't matter coasting anyway) and the tension
 seems OK. The wheel is straight

 Thanks in advance for any help,

 Pete in CT
 SingleSixtySidepullSam... and Quick-ish-beam

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[RBW] Re: 36t Hyperglide cog source?

2012-02-11 Thread truegolden

Regarding the modification of the rear derailleur to accommodate a
larger cassette / freewheel cog:

Just this week I read about doing that on the bikeforums.net.

A fellow was able to use a water jet cutter of some sort at his
community college to cut a longer cage so he could
use a vintage derailleur and a larger tooth freewheel. Not sure what
measure of success with new set up yet or if he has even had a chance
to test it out.

A search should turn it up that discussion.

Regards,

Paul
Dallas,TX area


On Feb 10, 12:49 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I knew a Swedish rider (Olaf Stroh, nice guy) who drilled a 38 t TA outer
 chainring to bolt to the penultimate cog of a Shimano cassette, then made
 an extended mounting arm for his rd so that this could accomodate the new
 cog. Lessee: 24/38X27 = 17 whole gear inches. I hear that at least one,
 old SunTour rd could actually accomodate a 38 t big cog.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM

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[RBW] Re: Need help deciding... Soma San Marcos or Revamp an 84 Trek 610...

2012-02-11 Thread James
I was just in the EXACT SAME SPOT as you!  I had an '08 Surly LHT that
I rode constantly but was just finding it too sluggish.  I wanted to
run 700x32s with fenders and caliper brakes. I wanted something to
fall in between my too-heavy LHT and my too twitchy/rough/unpleasant
road bike.

Guess what I bought.  Go on, guess.

My San Marcos arrived this Tuesday and I am building it up this
weekend.  It is gorgeous, and I cannot wait for her to be done.  My
advice is do what you think you'll be happier with in a year, even if
it costs a few hundred dollars more.

James

On Feb 7, 7:05 am, trek610 tspin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi all,

 I am at a cross roads and need some help deciding on how best to spend my
 money...

 I am looking to get a nice all around bike for commuting, perhaps a century
 or two, 2 day bike overnight credit card, and light trail (crushed
 limestone/dirt) type riding. In the summer I wind up with 50 - 150 miles
 per week.   I am currently using a Surly LHT for this type of riding, and
 really like it, but am longing for something a bit more .sprightly.
  Here is a picture of my current LHT to give you an idea of how I would
 like to setup this new ride.

 http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b110/e_merlin/LHT%202010/IMG_0016.jpg

 I am not the tallest guy and ride a 50 - 53cm frame depending on the setup.
  I would outfit his new bike in a similar fashion with fenders, racks,
 rando bag etc...

 Here is my problem.  I found a 531cs Trek 610 from 1984 that has (IMHO)
 nice geometry for my needs.  Some specs - 430mm chain-stay, 52mm rake, 72mm
 bottom bracket drop, and i think 72 for so seat and head tube angles.  Trek
 does not publish the geometry for anything but 22.5 frames that year...

 Trek Upgrade Path

    1. 700C or 650B wheel conversion - bigger tire, better ride, more fender
    clearance (I already have a nice set of velocity 700c wheels for this
    project)
    2. complete powder coat
    3. Canti brake studs added
    4. brazeons for various items
    5. cold set the rear end
    6. etc...

 I guess in the end this will require many new parts, some of which I have,
 but will be a considerable investment nonetheless.

 Now here comes the San Marcos  It seems to be a nice solution as well
 and may very well similar in price to the trek by the time I am done with
 the frame parts.  The San Marcos may be a bit more, but may be a better
 choice in the long run.  The San Marcos seems to have perfect geometry for
 my kind of riding...

 What would you do if you were me?  What bike will better serve me in the
 long run.  I have to admit, since I live in Madison WI the Trek has some
 sentimental value to me.  The San Marcos lugs look really nice however!  I
 am torn with which direction to go, and since this is a big outlay of cash
 for me I am looking for some advice before going one way or the other...

 Thanks in a advance to any/all help.

 Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Not So Quick Beam

2012-02-11 Thread Andrew
My 66cm QuickBeam is the first single-speed I've had in a long, long time.
I'm riding it in a fixed-gear (40/16) with JackBrown Blues (85 psi) and I
would not say it's slow or sluggish at all - in fact, just the opposite,
and a delight to ride in every way. One thing that *could* make a bike feel
sluggish is loose spokes - are the spokes properly tensioned on the OP's
wheels?

On chain tension (which is a negligible issue on bikes with derailers), I
have found that there can be significant variability through the rotation
of the cranks, if the chainring is not perfectly centered relative to the
BB axle. With some patient adjusting, I've found it's possible to get the
ring centered, just back off the bolts, then slowly snug a couple of them,
rotate the cranks, and note where the chain gets tight. Then relax one or
more bolts enough to nudge the ring to the rear a very small amount, snug
back, and test again. It's an iterative process, but the chainring can be
made to center around the BB with no discernable variation in chain tension.

- Andrew, Berkeley

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Re: [RBW] Not So Quick Beam

2012-02-11 Thread CycloFiend
Hmmm... something does sound a bit off in your description.

I'd probably work from the ground up -  I've actually not run the Kojaks, so
I don't have an A/B comparison.  But, I'd swap the tires over to see if it's
more to your liking.

Then I'd take careful look at the hubs.  If your rear wheel is not coasting
that long, you may have excessive load on the bearings.  If you have
cartridge bearings, make sure that you aren't compressing them when
tightening the rear axle in the fork ends. With the bike in the stand, I
would pull the chain off and see how it functions with no freewheel load. A
lot of time, hubs can act fine until tightened into the frame.

That freewheel sounds a little new - hopefully. The White fw has always
felt like it has stronger engagement, but again, my first hand experience
with one has been limited to not-on-the-bike futzing.  I don't recall if
there is a tension adjustment on those - you might give White a call.  If
it's new, I'd expect the factory grease to be part of the tension issue.

I'd check side load on the bb as well.  Those cranks should spin pretty much
forever with no chain attached.

Bear in mind that running a single speed freewheel bicycle is a bit
different than a geared setup.  You may find that your personally
efficiency - the cadence and effort that you lapse into most often - is a
bit different than the way the bicycle is geared.  You may want to figure
out what gearing you tend to end up in on the other bike, then see if you
can match that with the QB.

Also, minor differences in saddle and bars setup can be quite noticeable.
My QB and my Hilsen are set up fairly closley, but when I go from one to the
other, there's always a little feeling of inefficiency at first - the bikes
have different saddles and slightly different positions.  Quite simply, the
more miles I put on one bike, the more noticible that is when I switch back
over.

Hope this helps,

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com


Steel's what you want for a messenger bike.  Weight. Big basket up front.
Not cardboard with some crazy aramid shit wrapped around it, weighs about as
much as a sandwich.
-- William Gibson, Virtual Light



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[RBW] Asymmetrical stays

2012-02-11 Thread Aaron Young
I am also not an engineer, but this is an interesting topic to me.  If
anyone has a link to an article or paper describing the different forces on
the rear triangle in a traditional road bike please post it.

Also, I wonder if assuming the forces are different would the asymmetrical
stays create a noticeable effect to the rider?  What about different sizes
of chain stays or seat stays on each side?

-Aaron Y.
Rochester, NY

On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 9:59 AM, Tom M tommil...@me.com wrote:

 I remember reading somewhere that the stresses on the chain stays are
 unequal, so the asymmetrical stays make engineering sense

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[RBW] FS: Phil Wood BB 116 JIS

2012-02-11 Thread Marty
Nearly new - installed once for a show bike. Never ridden. Stainless Steel 
axle version. No rings. $75 OBO shipped, or trade for a 110.5 ISO? 

Marty

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[RBW] Re: Green Ram touch-up paint

2012-02-11 Thread Leslie
I used a Sally Hansen, Hard as Nails, Extreme Wear, nail polish that was a 
color called Emerald City, that I had my daughter pick up for me at 
Target.   Close enough for me.  Thing is, any touch-up is going to be 'on' 
the paint, so, you can tell, but, this is a metallic that blends in as well 
as I'd ever hope to.

  


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Re: [RBW] Not So Quick Beam

2012-02-11 Thread Peter Pesce
Thanks for all the great responses. 
I'm hoping to work methodically through the variables over the weekend, so I 
can identify the real issue and (hopefully) learn a thing or 2 in the process. 
Rather than my usual change a bunch of stuff and hope for an improvement 
method!

I'll keep you posted. 

Pete in CT

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[RBW] Re: Green Ram touch-up paint

2012-02-11 Thread Jay in Tel Aviv
Sally Hanson Hard as Nails Glow #3 is a pretty good match for my 1st
generation green Sam.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00367KLR6/ref=oh_o06_s00_i00_details

Jay


On Feb 11, 3:53 am, danmc djmcnam...@gmail.com wrote:
 Looking to do some touch-up on the new-to-me green Ram and was looking
 for ideas on paint or nail polish that might work. The archives
 mention Testors #1530 (so-so match) and a Sally Hansen polish but the
 URL is dead. Any other good matches people have found?

 Thanks

 Dan

 San Rafael, CA

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[RBW] Re: 58cm Quickbeam FS

2012-02-11 Thread Jay in Tel Aviv
People need to stop putting bikes in my size up for sale.
Someone is going to be really happy with this one.

Jay

On Feb 11, 4:55 pm, ageorgestew...@gmail.com
ageorgestew...@gmail.com wrote:
 Timing is everything. I just purchased my QB used, when...a rare bike
 I've been searching for (over a fairly extended period) has
 unexpectedly become immediately available to me. I'm at that stage in
 life where if something comes into the garage, something else must go
 out.

 So, my recently acquired orange QB is FS. It's a mostly standard Riv
 build, with technomic stem and mustache bars. One very effective
 upgrade - I swapped out the stock canti's for Grafton Speed
 Controllers II (mine are magnesium, and a bike's worth run around $350
  up if you can find 'em). No heelstrike problems in rear, and awesome
 stopping power with incredible modulation. The original owner
 purchased an additional larger front ring and appropriately sized
 chain, as well as a front rack (mounts to flat fork eyes) and canvas
 bag. It currently wears Ritchey cross tires. I'll leave the choice of
 saddle up to you.

 The paint is near-perfect, apart from showing signs of wheel mounts,
 and two mechanic-originated pinhead spots on the bb shell.

 I've got over $1650 into it; it can be yours for $1450. If you don't
 want the Grafton brakes, we can work out a substitute and price
 adjustment. If you'd like a nearly-perfect Brooks B17, add $65. If it
 has to be packaged and shipped, I'll have a great LBS do it for you at
 cost.

 Alistair

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Re: [RBW] Re: 36t Hyperglide cog source?

2012-02-11 Thread clyde canter
You know eventually Sunrace, or Sram will produce a 36t cassette for
cheap.  I think the smart thing to do is just wait for that.

On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 2:48 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I think the people advising you to buy full cassettes are those that shop
 online and see the SRAM PG-950 11-34 9-speed cassette for as little as $30
 shipped to your door, and see the Shimano HG61 12-36 9-speed cassette for
 as little as $48 shipped to your door.  I think they are just cutting to
 the chase, since there is no readily available 36t cog.

 I'm with you on the notion of trying to do the minimum to achieve the
 particular goal.  I try and do that, too.  In this particular case, though,
 the minimum that has a high likelihood of success might just be to spend
 the $48, Bob's your uncle, low gears achieved.  Not all that satisfying
 from a bike tinkering perspective, but your knees will love you.

 Best of luck whatever you choose.

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[RBW] Drive-Train Chirp

2012-02-11 Thread Darin G.
Here's a puzzler in the spirit of Car Talk for the mechanical gurus
on the post.  I get a very loud chirp (like a starling) when I shift
into the smaller cogs, and a continuous loud chirp (like a flock of
starlings) on the second smallest cog .  No chirp on the larger ones
or the smallest.  I can't replicate it in my repair stand, but it
definitely seems to emanate from the smaller cluster.  Cleaned and
lubed chain to no avail.

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Re: [RBW] Drive-Train Chirp

2012-02-11 Thread cyclotourist
Try lubing the rear derailer pulleys.

On 2/11/12, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote:
 Here's a puzzler in the spirit of Car Talk for the mechanical gurus
 on the post.  I get a very loud chirp (like a starling) when I shift
 into the smaller cogs, and a continuous loud chirp (like a flock of
 starlings) on the second smallest cog .  No chirp on the larger ones
 or the smallest.  I can't replicate it in my repair stand, but it
 definitely seems to emanate from the smaller cluster.  Cleaned and
 lubed chain to no avail.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

**
“I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
America that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s
the America I love.”

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Re: [RBW] Drive-Train Chirp

2012-02-11 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sat, 2012-02-11 at 11:32 -0800, Darin G. wrote:
 Here's a puzzler in the spirit of Car Talk for the mechanical gurus
 on the post.  I get a very loud chirp (like a starling) when I shift
 into the smaller cogs, and a continuous loud chirp (like a flock of
 starlings) on the second smallest cog .  No chirp on the larger ones
 or the smallest.  I can't replicate it in my repair stand, but it
 definitely seems to emanate from the smaller cluster.  Cleaned and
 lubed chain to no avail.

Most of the chirps when shifting I've heard seem to come from the
derailleur pulleys.



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Re: [RBW] Drive-Train Chirp

2012-02-11 Thread Bruce Herbitter
My old style 105 rear der pulleys are worn so that lube doesn't help,
especially when it gets cold and damp on night rides. Fortunately, the mail
carrier delivered some replacements today

On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 1:42 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On Sat, 2012-02-11 at 11:32 -0800, Darin G. wrote:
  Here's a puzzler in the spirit of Car Talk for the mechanical gurus
  on the post.  I get a very loud chirp (like a starling) when I shift
  into the smaller cogs, and a continuous loud chirp (like a flock of
  starlings) on the second smallest cog .  No chirp on the larger ones
  or the smallest.  I can't replicate it in my repair stand, but it
  definitely seems to emanate from the smaller cluster.  Cleaned and
  lubed chain to no avail.

 Most of the chirps when shifting I've heard seem to come from the
 derailleur pulleys.



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[RBW] Re: Need help deciding... Soma San Marcos or Revamp an 84 Trek 610...

2012-02-11 Thread charlie
Well written..I get ya on the LHT and the 'tanklike' nature of it.
I have mine set up with some 700x47's now and it'll roll over pretty
much anything.but its not super quick or lively feeling but then
I'm not either. I've noticed a small but definite difference in
certain machines and like others have said tires make a big
difference. I used to run some 700x32's Urbanmax's on the Trucker and
it felt closer to some of my other bikes. Finding a ride that fits
your size, weight and strength to give the maximum durability and ease
of riding is kind of a process. I'm finding that a frame about the
weight and configuration of my SimpleOne  with deraileur gearing and
37-38 mm wide tires works the best for me for the type of riding I
mostly do. I seldom venture off road and I live in a hilly area with
mostly decent pavement shoulders on the roads. I'm leaning toward an
eventual Homer Hilsen (but maybe beefed up in the down tube) because I
am not fond of cantilever brakes. I don't tour but do carry a saddle
bag so the Rando style machine is more to my liking with gearing set
up for my area and knees. Its taken me about ten bikes over the last
ten years to figure out what works best for me...


On Feb 11, 7:16 am, trek610 tspin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks Charlie - I hear you on the damage and tubing concerns.  I am lucky
 enough to have a frame builder local to me that is going to help me though
 this.  We have discussed the possibility of making a new fork.  If the
 frame has rust issues and other structural damage I will not move forward
 with it for sure.  The cost of adding cantis to a nice frame is pretty
 cheap - at least in my neck of the woods.  I was planning on painting it
 anyway, and have a resource to get that done on the cheap.

 The trucker is a pig for sure - at least the way I have it setup.  Not sure
 if you looked at the pictures, but the Conti Contact 26 x 1.75 tires
 probably have something to do with that... but it was by design and I love
 the bike for it and what I use it for.  I have beat that thing fire
 roads occasionally and pulled a home made crappy cart with it.  It will
 stay as is.  Make no mistake - handling, feel, quickness i.e. sprightly
 would be the LAST descriptive term I would use.  Again - I love the bike
 and have pushed it thought a century or two.  I hope to have a better
 experience on long rides little or no load.  Maybe I am fixing my head, but
 my experience ridding other bikes has confirmed my belief of the rubenesque
 nature of the LHT.  Hopefully that dispels any vagueness I
 have previously conveyed.

 Do I want a different bike - no revelation there.  I would be lying if I
 said no.  I am would have a garage full if my wife would not divorce me
 first.  I really hope to wind up with something different that what I have.
  Perhaps something more special as it as hand built about 20 miles from
 where I live now.  Or it will be an abomination and I will learn a valuable
 lesson.  I am sure  the jury here will let me know there thoughts on that
 :-)

 I like Grant and have leaned much about about bikes and subscribe to much
 his philosophy.  So much so that I purchased an XO-1 frame because I wanted
 a piece of that history and design perspective.  Riv undoubted makes
 wonderful bikes.  I can even say that I will own one in the future when I
 can swing it financially.  But that is not today.

 In terms of design, I wonder if there is any truth to the mystical nature
 of low trail 650B bikes.  Riv's do not (in my uneducated opinion) fall into
 this category.  There has been debate on this subject ad nausea already I
 will not pile on.  However - I believe there may be some truth to the
 hoopla and I want to find out for myself  on the cheap.

 Charlie - thanks for your sage advice.  I appreciate your point of view.  It
 may as well be a Rivendell they are pretty nice for quite a few good
 reasons. - no doubt about that.  I envy you guys and your classy rides.

 Cheers

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[RBW] Re: Asymmetrical stays

2012-02-11 Thread Montclair BobbyB
I'm no engineer either, but that is totally tentacular, tripendicular,
and bombadilious...

NICE BIKE!!

BB

On Feb 11, 11:26 am, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am also not an engineer, but this is an interesting topic to me.  If
 anyone has a link to an article or paper describing the different forces on
 the rear triangle in a traditional road bike please post it.

 Also, I wonder if assuming the forces are different would the asymmetrical
 stays create a noticeable effect to the rider?  What about different sizes
 of chain stays or seat stays on each side?

 -Aaron Y.
 Rochester, NY







 On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 9:59 AM, Tom M tommil...@me.com wrote:
  I remember reading somewhere that the stresses on the chain stays are
  unequal, so the asymmetrical stays make engineering sense

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[RBW] Re: Asymmetrical stays

2012-02-11 Thread dougP
Remember Grant posting that the stays on the new mystery bike were the
result of a poorly interpreted sketch he'd sent the frame builder?
Maybe that sketch was for a proto Bomba?  Anyway, that's one Huge
Bike!  Scroll thru the rest of the photos  you'll find Hilsen details
(but not the whole bike) and a lot of photos that look European.
Could there be some really large Rivendells wandering the back roads
of the old continent?

dougP

On Feb 11, 1:52 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I'm no engineer either, but that is totally tentacular, tripendicular,
 and bombadilious...

 NICE BIKE!!

 BB

 On Feb 11, 11:26 am, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:



  I am also not an engineer, but this is an interesting topic to me.  If
  anyone has a link to an article or paper describing the different forces on
  the rear triangle in a traditional road bike please post it.

  Also, I wonder if assuming the forces are different would the asymmetrical
  stays create a noticeable effect to the rider?  What about different sizes
  of chain stays or seat stays on each side?

  -Aaron Y.
  Rochester, NY

  On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 9:59 AM, Tom M tommil...@me.com wrote:
   I remember reading somewhere that the stresses on the chain stays are
   unequal, so the asymmetrical stays make engineering sense- Hide quoted 
   text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Asymmetrical stays

2012-02-11 Thread dougP
Regarding the structural considerations of the stays, unless someone
comes up with a compelling argument to the contrary, I'm going with
just for the fun of it.  They must be OK if that big guy can ride
that big Bomba.  And the cool factor cannot be denied.

dougP

On Feb 11, 1:52 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I'm no engineer either, but that is totally tentacular, tripendicular,
 and bombadilious...

 NICE BIKE!!

 BB

 On Feb 11, 11:26 am, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:



  I am also not an engineer, but this is an interesting topic to me.  If
  anyone has a link to an article or paper describing the different forces on
  the rear triangle in a traditional road bike please post it.

  Also, I wonder if assuming the forces are different would the asymmetrical
  stays create a noticeable effect to the rider?  What about different sizes
  of chain stays or seat stays on each side?

  -Aaron Y.
  Rochester, NY

  On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 9:59 AM, Tom M tommil...@me.com wrote:
   I remember reading somewhere that the stresses on the chain stays are
   unequal, so the asymmetrical stays make engineering sense- Hide quoted 
   text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Not So Quick Beam

2012-02-11 Thread Montclair BobbyB
To remove any doubt, just temporarily throw on a set of skinny go-fast
wheels (if you have em)... It's simply GOT to be the hubs or the
rubber (unless the brakes are dragging)... those are the only 2
factors that would create a noticeable difference.

Good luck
BB


On Feb 11, 12:25 pm, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks for all the great responses.
 I'm hoping to work methodically through the variables over the weekend, so I 
 can identify the real issue and (hopefully) learn a thing or 2 in the 
 process. Rather than my usual change a bunch of stuff and hope for an 
 improvement method!

 I'll keep you posted.

 Pete in CT

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[RBW] 46 Noodles swapped for 42s

2012-02-11 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I just swapped out the 46 cm Noodles for a pair of 42s (thanks, Dylan --
I'll mail the 46s this coming week) and I must say that I much prefer the
narrower ones. I've got them at the same height and reach and feared that
they would feel too close, but they feel just right. I've tried wide bars
-- Noodles, all sorts of different dirt drop flares including the original
WTBs and Salsas, but I keep coming back to more narrow ones. In fact, I put
38/42 -- or perhaps they are 37/41; forget --  Compass Bicycle Maes
Parallels on the two Rivs and I must say those are the nicest road bars
I've used. (And, they are made by NItto to an even nicer finish than the
Noodles, etc).

The only thing I miss -- slightly -- from the 46s is the additional room on
the flats on either side of the rather wide tubular bar bag; but that is a
minor price for the greater comfort otherwise.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html

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Re: [RBW] 46 Noodles swapped for 42s

2012-02-11 Thread Stonehog
Funny - I am trying some older Nitto B115 olympiads in a 39 (from an 80's Soma 
- polished up nice with simichrome, BTW). So far I am finding them very nice. I 
have also used 46 noodles and wasn't enamored with them. I haven't done a 
longer ride with them yet, but I have a couple coming up. 

Brian
Seattle

On Feb 11, 2012, at 4:39 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just swapped out the 46 cm Noodles for a pair of 42s (thanks, Dylan -- I'll 
 mail the 46s this coming week) and I must say that I much prefer the narrower 
 ones. I've got them at the same height and reach and feared that they would 
 feel too close, but they feel just right. I've tried wide bars -- Noodles, 
 all sorts of different dirt drop flares including the original WTBs and 
 Salsas, but I keep coming back to more narrow ones. In fact, I put 38/42 -- 
 or perhaps they are 37/41; forget --  Compass Bicycle Maes Parallels on the 
 two Rivs and I must say those are the nicest road bars I've used. (And, they 
 are made by NItto to an even nicer finish than the Noodles, etc).
 
 The only thing I miss -- slightly -- from the 46s is the additional room on 
 the flats on either side of the rather wide tubular bar bag; but that is a 
 minor price for the greater comfort otherwise.
 
 -- 
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Medium shopsack is back!

2012-02-11 Thread Andrew
Ah, it turns out they're not quite back in stock yet. I rode over to RBW
this morning, and learned that they'll have the medium olive bags back,
eventually. Their brief reappearance on the website was premature. And it's
the grid-grey model that's been discontinued.

But, no matter, it was a fine day for a ride.

- Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: 46 Noodles swapped for 42s

2012-02-11 Thread charlie
Wide bars are nice for off road but I find the narrower ones more
comfy for road riding. I think Grants bias is due to having either
long arms and wide shoulders or a preference for more control in off
road situations.just mt guess.

On Feb 11, 4:39 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I just swapped out the 46 cm Noodles for a pair of 42s (thanks, Dylan --
 I'll mail the 46s this coming week) and I must say that I much prefer the
 narrower ones. I've got them at the same height and reach and feared that
 they would feel too close, but they feel just right. I've tried wide bars
 -- Noodles, all sorts of different dirt drop flares including the original
 WTBs and Salsas, but I keep coming back to more narrow ones. In fact, I put
 38/42 -- or perhaps they are 37/41; forget --  Compass Bicycle Maes
 Parallels on the two Rivs and I must say those are the nicest road bars
 I've used. (And, they are made by NItto to an even nicer finish than the
 Noodles, etc).

 The only thing I miss -- slightly -- from the 46s is the additional room on
 the flats on either side of the rather wide tubular bar bag; but that is a
 minor price for the greater comfort otherwise.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRWhttp://resumespecialties.com/index.html

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[RBW] Re: Drive-Train Chirp

2012-02-11 Thread Montclair BobbyB
I would first make sure there's no bird caught in your derailleur
cage... :)

Seriously, are your gears indexed?  If so, is the chain properly
seated (centered) on the cogs when you hear the chirping?  Can you
micro-adjust the shifter/cable to see if this eliminates it?   Also,
do any of your cassette/freewheel cogs show excessive wear/deformity?
The list of possibilities should be short...

Good luck,
BB



On Feb 11, 2:47 pm, Bruce Herbitter bruce.herbit...@gmail.com wrote:
 My old style 105 rear der pulleys are worn so that lube doesn't help,
 especially when it gets cold and damp on night rides. Fortunately, the mail
 carrier delivered some replacements today







 On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 1:42 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
  On Sat, 2012-02-11 at 11:32 -0800, Darin G. wrote:
   Here's a puzzler in the spirit of Car Talk for the mechanical gurus
   on the post.  I get a very loud chirp (like a starling) when I shift
   into the smaller cogs, and a continuous loud chirp (like a flock of
   starlings) on the second smallest cog .  No chirp on the larger ones
   or the smallest.  I can't replicate it in my repair stand, but it
   definitely seems to emanate from the smaller cluster.  Cleaned and
   lubed chain to no avail.

  Most of the chirps when shifting I've heard seem to come from the
  derailleur pulleys.

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[RBW] Campy Record 10 group on Rambouillet?

2012-02-11 Thread Eric
Would I be breaking any RBW aesthetic rules by throwing on a Campy
Record 10 group on my Ramouillet?

And yes, carbon shifters/fd/rd but alloy cranks.

Thoughts?

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Re: [RBW] Campy Record 10 group on Rambouillet?

2012-02-11 Thread James Warren

Do it.


On Feb 11, 2012, at 10:45 PM, Eric wrote:

 Would I be breaking any RBW aesthetic rules by throwing on a Campy
 Record 10 group on my Ramouillet?
 
 And yes, carbon shifters/fd/rd but alloy cranks.
 
 Thoughts?
 
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James Warren
jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- Remember, my friends, it is better to feel fast than to be fast.



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