[RBW] Montana photos

2012-08-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
Just got back from a memorable 6 days of riding and camping in NW Montana, 
in and around Glacier NP. No Rivendells on the trip, but you may enjoy some 
of the photos anyway:
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2012/08/back-from-montana.html

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Re: [RBW] Montana photos

2012-08-18 Thread Brian Hanson
Love the photos, Jim!  Glacier is one of my favorite places in the world.
 How was the riding?  Did you find traffic to be a problem at this time of
year?

Brian
Seattle, WA

On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 11:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
thill@gmail.com wrote:

 Just got back from a memorable 6 days of riding and camping in NW Montana,
 in and around Glacier NP. No Rivendells on the trip, but you may enjoy some
 of the photos anyway:
 http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2012/08/back-from-montana.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: 60cm Romulus in Chicago - Nearly new!

2012-08-18 Thread Bruce Herbitter
Since the Rom wasn't made in 60 cm, perhaps the OP simply mis remembered,
or mis measured. The asking price is high. Similarly, an overpriced blue 56
cm Ram did not sell in the past week either.

On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 11:57 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.comwrote:

 here's the poop.

 http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/romulus/rom_flyerannounce1scr.jpg



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Re: [RBW] 60cm Romulus in Chicago - Nearly new!

2012-08-18 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Fri, 2012-08-17 at 21:12 -0500, John Blish wrote:
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Reid reidp...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 
 
 On Friday, August 17, 2012 8:58:57 AM UTC-7, john blish
 wrote: 
 The ad may be completely legit and the bike the
 property of the seller but Romulus did not come in a
 60.  They came in odd sizes - 57, 59, etc.
 
  
 Mine claims to be a 56 and I thought at the time, they came in
 58 and other even sizes. I think I did buy mine nine years
 ago. :-)  As much as I like mine, if some fool offered me
 $1,800 for it, it would probably be gone!
   
 Ya know, I shouldn't generalize based on too little information.  I
 accept what Reid has said and apologize.  

You shouldn't; you are right and he is wrong.  I remember from when the
Ram and the Rom were both being sold, the Ram was on even and the Rom on
odd sizing.  And, the brochure (Rob posted a link earlier) proves it.


 I had two 59 Romulus bikes but I don't know what other sizes were
 made.  I had thought there was a 57 but maybe not.  I was just kind of
 assuming that Rambouillets were even sizes 54 (my wife has one), 56,
 58, etc. and that Romulus bikes came in odd sizes but I could be
 mistaken.  

You are NOT mistaken.


 Maybe some Romulus bikes came in even sizes.  I guess I spoke too
 soon.  

Actually not.  You were spot on.


 

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Re: [RBW] Montana photos

2012-08-18 Thread nawrock
Fantastic Jim, thanks for posting, WOW! 
Dave Nawrocki 
Fort Collins, CO 

- Original Message -
From: Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com 
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 12:10:43 AM 
Subject: [RBW] Montana photos 

Just got back from a memorable 6 days of riding and camping in NW Montana, in 
and around Glacier NP. No Rivendells on the trip, but you may enjoy some of the 
photos anyway: 
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2012/08/back-from-montana.html 


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Re: [RBW] Re: WTT B68 for B67 (Brooks saddle)

2012-08-18 Thread clyde canter
 Bobby,
 I sent you some pics of my saddle. Did they make it?
Best,
Clyde

On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 10:51 AM, Montclair BobbyB 
montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:

 Clyde:

 I have a newish B68 Honey (in great shape) that I might consider trading,
 but would like to see a photo... I can provide a photo of the B68

 Thanks,
 Bobby
 montclairbob...@gmail.com


 On Thursday, August 9, 2012 10:39:10 AM UTC-4, ccanter wrote:

 Greetings.  A while back I wanted to try a B67. I swapped a B17 for
 one (here on the lists) and after a while of trying it out I find I
 like the shape of the saddle but alas the noise of the springs bothers
 me somewhat.  I really do not need springs so I would like to trade
 with someone here for a B68 (the sprngless version of the 67).  The
 one I have is brown.  I would prefer to exchange for a brown or honey
 68, but black would be okay as well.  Mine is in good to excellant
 condition. If felt to me a bit saggy, so I drilled 3 holes in each
 side of the saddle right under the logo and laced her up.  I did a
 good job of this( IMO).  I am looking for a trade of similar
 condition.
 Anyone out there like to swap evens?
 Best,
 Clyde Canter in Virginia

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[RBW] Re: Montana photos

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam


 Nice shots!!! Beautiful.

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[RBW] Re: Silver Downtube shifters and 10-speed cassette?

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam
Wait, so is it possible then to just take off my 10-speed shimano cassette, 
and put on the 7-speed shimano cassette, and use it with the ultegra 
derailer I have in friction?
I could set the limit screws so the derailer wouldn't move too far?
Or would a 7-speed cassette be the same width as a 10-speed?
Would it work on my 135 drop-out measurements?
Does chain line factor in?
 
Sorry for these questions, but I am new to drivetrain mechanics. Haven't 
messed wih 'em too much other than basics.
 
 
 

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 3:59:18 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm delighted at the shifting of Silver Downtube shifters with a 9-speed 
 cassette.  I'm running that setup on three bikes.  I'm contemplating a 
 lightweight 650B wheelset.  I already have the Pacenti 650B road rims 
 (confirmed 400g on my scale).  I'm probably going to get a pair of White 
 Industries hubs.  I'm thinking about whether the super light and swanky 
 SRAM cassettes will work with friction shifters.  My question is: Are any 
 list members using Silver downtube shifters with a 10-sp SRAM or Shimano 
 cassette?  What rear der?  What chain?  Do you like it?

 Bill


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[RBW] Re: Silver Downtube shifters and 10-speed cassette?

2012-08-18 Thread Michael Hechmer
I have not had any problem mating silver shifters with a good Shimano 9 
speed cassette and a good conex chain.  I ran into a lot of trouble with an 
inexpensive SRAM chain  cassette.  I do get occasional  ghost shifts with 
the same set up on BE, but it always seems to be connected to a slightly 
loose D ring.  Personally I think a hi quality 9 speed will give a better 
experience than a mid level 10 speed set up.  What do you hope to get by 
going 10 speed?  I know the steps can be a little smaller and I like that 
but the only time it seems to matter with 9 speed is between 14  16 or 15 
 17.   There is no perfect solution here; it always about what compromise 
you are willing to make.

When you're done with this project let us know how a lightweight 650 works 
out.  I keep thinking about it for my Marinoni racing frame but never quite 
get to the point of wanting to spend the money.

Michael  

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 3:59:18 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm delighted at the shifting of Silver Downtube shifters with a 9-speed 
 cassette.  I'm running that setup on three bikes.  I'm contemplating a 
 lightweight 650B wheelset.  I already have the Pacenti 650B road rims 
 (confirmed 400g on my scale).  I'm probably going to get a pair of White 
 Industries hubs.  I'm thinking about whether the super light and swanky 
 SRAM cassettes will work with friction shifters.  My question is: Are any 
 list members using Silver downtube shifters with a 10-sp SRAM or Shimano 
 cassette?  What rear der?  What chain?  Do you like it?

 Bill


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[RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread Michael Hechmer
Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust!  What kind of pedals am 
I seeing?  There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but after 
a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them on  
off when you want to.

Michael

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM UTC-4, The Cripler wrote:

 Several weeks back, with the hearty encouragement of this forums 
 members, I purchased my first Rivendell - a used 58cm Atlantis. It was a 
 deal that was too good to pass up, and I have been nothing but incredibly 
 happy that I made the leap. Since the purchase, I have been tweaking the 
 bike fit and swapping out some parts. I was able to recoup some much needed 
  with the sale of my Surly LHT and host of parts from my bin. This 
 allowed me to make some nice upgrades to the Atlantis. Since the purchase I 
 have swapped out stems to a 100 Nitto Technimic, added a Paul 
 Neo-retro/Touring brake combo, splurged on the Tektro TRP brake levers, 
 rerouted my brake and derailleur cables, and finally last night added 
 yellow Newbaums cloth tape and twine to the Noodles. All that is left to do 
 is get some amber shellac on the bars, and I am ready to ride! Through the 
 process I have learned alot...mostly about the joys of tweaking with 
 canti brakes and the importance of taping your brake cables where you want 
 them prior to wrapping and twining (still might have to fix this one). Here 
 are some pics:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bp1cCFGAnwU/UC0DamiyQDI/ACs/sOQqlu3FpAM/s1600/IMG_1022%5B1%5D.JPG
  


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[RBW] Re: Silver Downtube shifters and 10-speed cassette?

2012-08-18 Thread David Spranger
You can replace your 10 speed cassette with a 7 speed. You will need to add 
a spacer like this:
http://www.jensonusa.com/!dKSLZ62ZteeEKb6SVVR8ZA!/Cassette-Spacer

You will also need to adjust your limit screws. 

David 

Charlotte, NC

On Saturday, August 18, 2012 9:05:51 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Wait, so is it possible then to just take off my 10-speed shimano 
 cassette, and put on the 7-speed shimano cassette, and use it with the 
 ultegra derailer I have in friction?
 I could set the limit screws so the derailer wouldn't move too far?
 Or would a 7-speed cassette be the same width as a 10-speed?
 Would it work on my 135 drop-out measurements?
 Does chain line factor in?
  
 Sorry for these questions, but I am new to drivetrain mechanics. Haven't 
 messed wih 'em too much other than basics.
  
  
  

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 3:59:18 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm delighted at the shifting of Silver Downtube shifters with a 9-speed 
 cassette.  I'm running that setup on three bikes.  I'm contemplating a 
 lightweight 650B wheelset.  I already have the Pacenti 650B road rims 
 (confirmed 400g on my scale).  I'm probably going to get a pair of White 
 Industries hubs.  I'm thinking about whether the super light and swanky 
 SRAM cassettes will work with friction shifters.  My question is: Are any 
 list members using Silver downtube shifters with a 10-sp SRAM or Shimano 
 cassette?  What rear der?  What chain?  Do you like it?

 Bill



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RE: [RBW] Re: I've got a project bike. Do you want to do the conversion, or should I?

2012-08-18 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
That'll be a great build as is -- budget or no.


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 1:32 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: I've got a project bike. Do you want to do the conversion, 
or should I?

I'm taking the budget route now.

1.  Mostly stock
2.  Overhaul
3.  1.75 New Express tires and presta tubes
4.  a Noodle/tech dlx/tektro bar cockpit I already have
5.  a black B17 I already have
6.  super secret Silver barcons built from the Riv-Silver Thumbies
7.  Silver SKS P55s I already have
8.  Nitto Big front and Rear racks that I already have

Total cash outlay is under $100.  That'll get it 100% useable for 
road-evaluation.  Then I can think about justifying a nicer paint job (and a 
couple more braze-ons)

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 9:17:44 PM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
Yes, Bill... we always knew where this was heading... Hey, what say we make 
this a group-build... Tom, you game  I'll be out in San Francisco in 
October...

Hmmm, let's see... a black and creme 2-tone paint job... new Stumpy decals... 
custom stainless S headbadge...
Dyno hub with front and rear BM lights...
50mm Creme Fat Franks... Black fenders with creme pinstripingn and chevrons
Brooks B17 Special... maybe etched???
killer front and rear racks...

Oh yeah...a totally pimped out dream bike...
I will go to sleep now...

Peace,
BB




On Thursday, August 16, 2012 12:21:41 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
MBB

You know how this is going to turn out.  :-P

Of course I'm going to end up doing the conversion.  It's particularly 
inevitable for me since I already have a fun drop bar cockpit ready to go.  The 
cash out parts will be tires, tubes and brake pads.  Maybe fenders.

You also know that you and Tom are at fault for doing so many yummy conversions 
and sharing photos of them.  I can't let you guys have all the fun.

Bill

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 8:28:38 AM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
BTW, my good friend and local (Sonoma) jeweler/cyclist from Healdsburg, Scott 
Kalkman crafted the headbadge, and I'm confident could craft one for this 
beauty... http://tinyurl.com/bmssvju

BB

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 11:04:04 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
William, you rascal...very tempting...  I have a serious weakness for '85 
Stumpies... but alas I already have my own (which I transformed into a kind of 
Atlantish tribute bike... http://tinyurl.com/8fu6kqx  )

BUT TO ANYONE INTERESTED... THIS is an exceptional bike, and will make a 
lifetime keeper touring/grocery-getter/head-turner/just-plain-awesome 
RIDER!!!...

Good luck, William, and it's for a good cause.  BB

On Monday, August 6, 2012 2:51:05 PM UTC-4, William wrote:
I've gotten a hold of an early 80s Stumpjumper Sport that appears to be 
practically unridden.  Deer head derailleurs, specialized cranks and hubs.  
Lugged at the headtube and lugged unicrown fork.  Super long chainstays.  I 
think it will make a great substitute for an Atlantis or Bombadil type of 
touring bike.  I'm thinking the Compass 26 tires, or maybe Big Apples, with 
fenders, and drop bars.  This came from the Harding Elementary School Dad's 
Club.  I could do a conversion and then try to sell it, but first I wanted to 
float it here to see if anyone in the Bay Area was thinking of doing something 
like this and wanted to have the fun for themselves.  Let me know if you think 
you'd like the shot at this.  I'm thinking that $400 made out to Harding 
Elementary School would be enough to keep me from building a bombproof touring 
bike out of this.  Let me know if you want a crack at it.  Here's the photo set:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157630935094690/

I am especially interested in getting out of doing this conversion because I 
always get emotionally attached to these projects and want to keep them.  :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Downtube shifters and 10-speed cassette?

2012-08-18 Thread PATRICK MOORE
You can use regular, inter-cog spacers. I squeeze two of them at the
back end of the cassette so that I can use just seven at the for'ard
end of the f/hub body.

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 7:34 AM, David Spranger daspran...@gmail.com wrote:
 You can replace your 10 speed cassette with a 7 speed. You will need to add
 a spacer like this:
 http://www.jensonusa.com/!dKSLZ62ZteeEKb6SVVR8ZA!/Cassette-Spacer

 You will also need to adjust your limit screws.

 David

 Charlotte, NC


 On Saturday, August 18, 2012 9:05:51 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Wait, so is it possible then to just take off my 10-speed shimano
 cassette, and put on the 7-speed shimano cassette, and use it with the
 ultegra derailer I have in friction?
 I could set the limit screws so the derailer wouldn't move too far?
 Or would a 7-speed cassette be the same width as a 10-speed?
 Would it work on my 135 drop-out measurements?
 Does chain line factor in?

 Sorry for these questions, but I am new to drivetrain mechanics. Haven't
 messed wih 'em too much other than basics.




 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 3:59:18 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm delighted at the shifting of Silver Downtube shifters with a 9-speed
 cassette.  I'm running that setup on three bikes.  I'm contemplating a
 lightweight 650B wheelset.  I already have the Pacenti 650B road rims
 (confirmed 400g on my scale).  I'm probably going to get a pair of White
 Industries hubs.  I'm thinking about whether the super light and swanky SRAM
 cassettes will work with friction shifters.  My question is: Are any list
 members using Silver downtube shifters with a 10-sp SRAM or Shimano
 cassette?  What rear der?  What chain?  Do you like it?

 Bill

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-- 
When in Rome, do as they done in Milledgeville.

Flannery O'Connor

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] Re: S240 To Half Moon Bay This Saturday 8/18- 8/19

2012-08-18 Thread James Warren
What time?

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 17, 2012, at 8:26 PM, Manuel Acosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Sorry folks looks like I have to cancel this event. With school starting on 
 monday, I have to go in tomorrow to set up my classroom. Still doing a ride 
 to halfmoon bay for bbq but it's going to be on Sunday
 -Manny
 
 On Wednesday, August 15, 2012 10:29:09 PM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:
 Lets say 1000ish at DC Bart.
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Re: [RBW] 60cm Romulus in Chicago - Nearly new!

2012-08-18 Thread James Warren
Are all sizes being discussed in this thread thought of as center-to-top?



Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2012, at 4:03 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On Fri, 2012-08-17 at 21:12 -0500, John Blish wrote:
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Reid reidp...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 
 
On Friday, August 17, 2012 8:58:57 AM UTC-7, john blish
wrote: 
The ad may be completely legit and the bike the
property of the seller but Romulus did not come in a
60.  They came in odd sizes - 57, 59, etc.
 
 
Mine claims to be a 56 and I thought at the time, they came in
58 and other even sizes. I think I did buy mine nine years
ago. :-)  As much as I like mine, if some fool offered me
$1,800 for it, it would probably be gone!
 
 Ya know, I shouldn't generalize based on too little information.  I
 accept what Reid has said and apologize.  
 
 You shouldn't; you are right and he is wrong.  I remember from when the
 Ram and the Rom were both being sold, the Ram was on even and the Rom on
 odd sizing.  And, the brochure (Rob posted a link earlier) proves it.
 
 
 I had two 59 Romulus bikes but I don't know what other sizes were
 made.  I had thought there was a 57 but maybe not.  I was just kind of
 assuming that Rambouillets were even sizes 54 (my wife has one), 56,
 58, etc. and that Romulus bikes came in odd sizes but I could be
 mistaken.  
 
 You are NOT mistaken.
 
 
 Maybe some Romulus bikes came in even sizes.  I guess I spoke too
 soon.  
 
 Actually not.  You were spot on.
 
 
 
 
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[RBW] Re: Saluki porn

2012-08-18 Thread SteveD
Oh my! I'm kicking myself for not buying a Saluki when they first came out. 
I've been thinking about buying an AHH in butterschotch sometime next year.


-Steve
Seattle

On Friday, August 17, 2012 9:06:12 AM UTC-7, jeffrey kane wrote:

 Sorry, been having an amazing 18 months on this baby and just had to post 
 this pin-up pic ...

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[RBW] Removing chain guard glue glunk from frame

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam
Hello,
 
I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa glue 
goo left behind.
 
I tried water, alcohol, and degreaser (not intentional), but all I get is 
some paint tint on the rag. The goo wont go.
 
Anything I can try next? Don't wanna damage the finish.
 
I don't wanna put on another chain guard because I like seeing as much of 
the beautiful frame as possible.

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Re: [RBW] Removing chain guard glue glunk from frame

2012-08-18 Thread Eric Norris
Try Goo Gone, which you can find at most any hardware store.

--Eric N

On Aug 18, 2012, at 8:44 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello,
  
 I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa glue 
 goo left behind.
  
 I tried water, alcohol, and degreaser (not intentional), but all I get is 
 some paint tint on the rag. The goo wont go.
  
 Anything I can try next? Don't wanna damage the finish.
  
 I don't wanna put on another chain guard because I like seeing as much of the 
 beautiful frame as possible.
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Re: [RBW] Removing chain guard glue glunk from frame

2012-08-18 Thread Peter Morgano
I used denatured alcohol,  worked nice and easy.  You have to use the
hardware store stuff, not the drug store stuff.
On Aug 18, 2012 11:44 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello,

 I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa
 glue goo left behind.

 I tried water, alcohol, and degreaser (not intentional), but all I get is
 some paint tint on the rag. The goo wont go.

 Anything I can try next? Don't wanna damage the finish.

 I don't wanna put on another chain guard because I like seeing as much of
 the beautiful frame as possible.

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[RBW] How are Rivbikes painted?

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam
What's the process?
Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
What type of clearcoat do they put on it?
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Saluki porn

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam
Could you post some close ups of the headbadge, dt emblem, and st emblem?

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[RBW] How far to seat setback? Just Ride not clear on it.

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam
Hello,
 
In Just ride, Grant talks about many aspects of fit, but doesn't go into 
detail about reach fore/aft of saddle to bars. Also, about how far behind 
the center of crank the saddle should be.
 
These two dimensions could have a big effect on comfort.
How do you set yours up?
How does Riv set the new bikes up for you?
 
 

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Re: [RBW] How are Rivbikes painted?

2012-08-18 Thread Peter Morgano
They have a video on the website showing the standard process
On Aug 18, 2012 11:49 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 What's the process?
 Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
 What type of clearcoat do they put on it?



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Re: [RBW] ISO: Nitto Mark's Rack, Nitto Small Rack, Nitto Big Rear Rack

2012-08-18 Thread Daniel
Someone on the BOB list was just selling one:

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/internet-bob/-/Gy2Ef0D8sisJ
On Aug 17, 2012 10:28 AM, Dave davele...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi everyone,

 Interested in any of your not-being-used Nitto racks: Mark's, small, or
 big rear rack

 Let me know if you have one you'd like to turn into cash,
 Dave

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[RBW] Stolen simpleone in minneapolis

2012-08-18 Thread dylan alverson
HI my 56 cm simple one was stolen off my porch last night if anyone sees 
it.  It had a dura ace headset, phil bottom bracket, ta cranks, black sun 
tour xc pedals, phil track wheels, white industries dos freewheel, nitto 
post and stem albatross bars, paul levers and cantilevers, honey brooks b 
17 special, a velo orange porteur rack, schwalbe kojak tires.  

Thanks
Dylan
360-292-9126

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[RBW] Re: Bike-y things to do in Mpls in the next few days?

2012-08-18 Thread Andrew Drummond
Thanks for the suggestions; unfortunately I ended up just working the whole 
time. I'm sure I'll be back, though!

Andrew

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[RBW] Hillborne review

2012-08-18 Thread Paul Yeoh
Tried to post this to rivbike.com, but they only allow 1000 characters and 
this review is about 5X that. 
Hope it helps anyone looking at the Hillborne. 


This review is overdue, I have had the bike almost 2 years now, and its 
been through a few configurations. I didn't love it at first, but I really 
do appreciate it now, I guess I've grown into the bike. 

It might be good to first state that I don't fit the usual Riv customer 
profile. I've been riding XC since 13 (age 32 at time of writing), and more 
recently gotten into road riding. I love my go-fast kit, enjoy racing and 
train with a heart rate monitor. That's not to say that I don't ever Just 
Ride - I ride in a variety of ways. 

I first specced my Hillborne with moustache bars, a schmidt dynohub 
(powering BM lights front and rear) , phil rivy 7 speed rear hub, 42mm 
marathon extremes (knobby) , tektro 720 cantis, MKS Sylvan pedals and B17 
saddle. I went to town on this build, thinking it'd be my bike to tour the 
world on. I didn't enjoy riding it so much, it felt slow on the road, and 
not nearly as much fun as my racing hardtail off road. The moustache bars 
have the cool XO look, but felt awkward to me - I could never settle into a 
position for long.

I didn't start to really enjoy and appreciate the bike until after making 
several changes... which I would recommend to anyone who enjoys aggressive 
riding.

- Noodle bars and technomic stem: this handlebar setup gave me enough 
positions to play with, both aggressive and relaxed. The only way to go, 
imho. Much more comfortable over a long trip, and easier to crank out power 
 than on a moustache bar. 

- Jack Brown tires: The best 700c tire for this bike! These make it 
possible to keep up with slower roadies while being very comfortable and 
secure. For the same effort that I can keep my 23mm road racer going at 40 
kph, I can keep these tires going at 35 kph, which is pretty darn good 
considering 50psi comfort and the Hillborne's significant heft. I feel that 
a fatter, knobby tire like the 42mm marathon extreme is overkill for this 
frame, and doesn't allow me to ride off road any faster anyway. 

- Crankbrothers 50/50 platform pedals : these were actually for my full 
suspension trail bike but were put on the Hillborne while the trail bike 
was out of service. Its much easier to put power down on the bike with a 
grippy platform pedal vs. a more slippery MKS Sylvan. It lets me charge 
over rough surfaces and accelerate with a great deal more conviction = more 
fun. I'd tried clipless pedals on the Hillborne too, but platforms allow 
you to embrace the Rivendell / Grant philosophy properly, and it works 
really well. 

I've not been a huge fan of the Silver friction shifters, and I am just 
about getting used to them now. I don't shift very often on this bike, 
whereas I am constantly shifting on my road racer to keep power output at a 
max. I prefer my dura-ace brifters, but I can appreciate that friction bar 
ends do work well for this bike's intended purpose. 

I ride this bike every where now. In any type of clothing, into any 
non-extreme terrain. Commuting, adventuring, training, its never a bad time 
to take the Riv out, especially when the terrain or weather is unexpected. 
Ridden at an easy pace, this bike is effortless. Ridden hard, its fast 
enough to feel fun and nimble. Not as quick as a road racer, but certainly 
quick enough. The ride is like most would rave about - supple, confident, 
secure. I agree wholeheartedly with Grant that if you had just one bike, 
you couldn't do better, though knowing what I know now, I might've sprung 
for a Roadeo instead, specced it with a full Ultegra 2x10 drivetrain, and 
reduced my stable by one bike.

Complaints: I did have regular trouble with chain suck when the bike from 
new. It tends to be a problem when riding very muddy/dusty terrain.  I 
generally don't ride so much dirt with the hillborne now, and also keep the 
drivetrain clean and well lubed, and the problem is not present then. Dirt 
roads are generally fine, singletrack tends to cause problems. 

I also managed to break the frame whilst riding some singletrack. Not a 
very big impact, riding up a river embankment, nothing that threw me off 
the bike, but I cracked the joints joining the headtube to downtube and 
lower top tube (56 cm, Waterford, double top tube model) This is not  a 
strike against Riv or Waterford - these things happen, and no manufacturer 
is 100%. To Riv's credit, John handled the matter most graciously and 
offered me a chance to buy a shop model at a deeply discounted price w 
frame swap. My problem was that being based in South East Asia, shipping 
would be prohibitively expensive. Since one of the selling points of a 
steel bike is its repairability, I went with that route, and found a local 
builder to braze the joints back. Its probably stronger than new now. 

All said and done, I know I'll be keeping this bike forever. 

-- 
You received 

[RBW] Re: Saluki porn

2012-08-18 Thread William
That's absurdly yummy.  Was it built originally with the bridge in the rear 
for a centerpull?  Like, did it precede the existence of Silver sidepulls? 
 I'm swooning over your fender clearances.  

On Friday, August 17, 2012 9:06:12 AM UTC-7, jeffrey kane wrote:

 Sorry, been having an amazing 18 months on this baby and just had to post 
 this pin-up pic ...

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Re: [RBW] Re: I've got a project bike. Do you want to do the conversion, or should I?

2012-08-18 Thread William
Headset and BB overhauled.  I'm taking the frame and rear wheel to the LBS 
for derailer hanger alignment.  That's one too for which there is no 
substitute that I'll probably never buy.  

On Saturday, August 18, 2012 6:55:12 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  That'll be a great build as is -- budget or no.

  --
 *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *William
 *Sent:* Friday, August 17, 2012 1:32 PM
 *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 *Subject:* [RBW] Re: I've got a project bike. Do you want to do the 
 conversion, or should I?

  I'm taking the budget route now.   

  1.  Mostly stock
 2.  Overhaul
 3.  1.75 New Express tires and presta tubes
 4.  a Noodle/tech dlx/tektro bar cockpit I already have
 5.  a black B17 I already have
 6.  super secret Silver barcons built from the Riv-Silver Thumbies
 7.  Silver SKS P55s I already have
 8.  Nitto Big front and Rear racks that I already have

  Total cash outlay is under $100.  That'll get it 100% useable for 
 road-evaluation.  Then I can think about justifying a nicer paint job (and 
 a couple more braze-ons)

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 9:17:44 PM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote: 

 Yes, Bill... we always knew where this was heading... Hey, what say we 
 make this a group-build... Tom, you game  I'll be out in San 
 Francisco in October...  

  Hmmm, let's see... a black and creme 2-tone paint job... new Stumpy 
 decals... custom stainless S headbadge... 
 Dyno hub with front and rear BM lights...
 50mm Creme Fat Franks... Black fenders with creme pinstripingn and 
 chevrons
 Brooks B17 Special... maybe etched???
 killer front and rear racks...

  Oh yeah...a totally pimped out dream bike... 
 I will go to sleep now... 

  Peace,
 BB

  
  

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 12:21:41 PM UTC-4, William wrote: 

 MBB 

  You know how this is going to turn out.  :-P  

  Of course I'm going to end up doing the conversion.  It's particularly 
 inevitable for me since I already have a fun drop bar cockpit ready to go. 
  The cash out parts will be tires, tubes and brake pads.  Maybe fenders.  

  You also know that you and Tom are at fault for doing so many yummy 
 conversions and sharing photos of them.  I can't let you guys have all the 
 fun.

  Bill

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 8:28:38 AM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote: 

 BTW, my good friend and local (Sonoma) jeweler/cyclist from Healdsburg, 
 Scott Kalkman crafted the headbadge, and I'm confident could craft one for 
 this beauty... http://tinyurl.com/bmssvju 

  BB

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 11:04:04 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote: 

 William, you rascal...very tempting...  I have a serious weakness for 
 '85 Stumpies... but alas I already have my own (which I transformed into 
 a 
 kind of Atlantish tribute bike... http://tinyurl.com/8fu6kqx  ) 

 BUT TO ANYONE INTERESTED... THIS is an exceptional bike, and will make 
 a lifetime keeper touring/grocery-getter/head-turner/just-plain-awesome 
 RIDER!!!... 

 Good luck, William, and it's for a good cause.  BB

 On Monday, August 6, 2012 2:51:05 PM UTC-4, William wrote: 

 I've gotten a hold of an early 80s Stumpjumper Sport that appears to 
 be practically unridden.  Deer head derailleurs, specialized cranks and 
 hubs.  Lugged at the headtube and lugged unicrown fork.  Super long 
 chainstays.  I think it will make a great substitute for an Atlantis or 
 Bombadil type of touring bike.  I'm thinking the Compass 26 tires, or 
 maybe Big Apples, with fenders, and drop bars.  This came from the 
 Harding 
 Elementary School Dad's Club.  I could do a conversion and then try to 
 sell 
 it, but first I wanted to float it here to see if anyone in the Bay Area 
 was thinking of doing something like this and wanted to have the fun for 
 themselves.  Let me know if you think you'd like the shot at this.  I'm 
 thinking that $400 made out to Harding Elementary School would be enough 
 to 
 keep me from building a bombproof touring bike out of this.  Let me know 
 if 
 you want a crack at it.  Here's the photo set: 

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157630935094690/ 
  
  I am especially interested in getting out of doing this conversion 
 because I always get emotionally attached to these projects and want to 
 keep them.  :)

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Re: [RBW] How far to seat setback? Just Ride not clear on it.

2012-08-18 Thread PATRICK MOORE
One exceedingly important principle is: don't move your saddle to
adjust reach to the bar. In fact, I agree with many that saddle
position -- height, tilt and, especially, fore/aft situation -- is the
starting point for everything else.

See PJW's well known bike fit article:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm -- especially the section
on fore/aft setup.

Me, I like my Flites waaay back and wish I'd agreed to let Grant make
my Rivs' seat tube angle shallower. As it is, an old last-gen-aluminum
Dura Ace seatpost, with a lot of setback, just lets me get them
back far enough.

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 9:56 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello,

 In Just ride, Grant talks about many aspects of fit, but doesn't go into
 detail about reach fore/aft of saddle to bars. Also, about how far behind
 the center of crank the saddle should be.

 These two dimensions could have a big effect on comfort.
 How do you set yours up?
 How does Riv set the new bikes up for you?



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-- 
When in Rome, do as they done in Milledgeville.

Flannery O'Connor

-
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For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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[RBW] Re: How far to seat setback? Just Ride not clear on it.

2012-08-18 Thread pb
The saddle should never be adjusted relative to the bars, but should be 
adjusted relative to the pedal.  I use the traditional patella above the 
pedal spindle (pedal at 90 degrees horizontal and forward) as the starting 
point and then adjust for comfort from there.  I realize that arguments 
have been made against that measurement, and that's fine.  I consider it a 
helpful starting point, not a hard and fast rule.
 
I always carry seat adjustment tools with me when riding, and I'll 
occasionally stop to make adjustments, both front-back and up-down.  When I 
was fit and strong, my saddle steadily migrated further back, which I find 
offers superior power; in my current state of lack of fitness, my saddle 
has migrated forward, which I find offers superior spin.
 
Cheers
 
Peter
 
  
On Saturday, August 18, 2012 8:56:52 AM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 Hello,
  
 In Just ride, Grant talks about many aspects of fit, but doesn't go into 
 detail about reach fore/aft of saddle to bars. Also, about how far behind 
 the center of crank the saddle should be.
  
 These two dimensions could have a big effect on comfort.
 How do you set yours up?
 How does Riv set the new bikes up for you?
  
  


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[RBW] Re: How far to seat setback? Just Ride not clear on it.

2012-08-18 Thread pb
Reflecting further on my own comments, maybe I should clarify -- when I was 
fit and strong and could climb seated in relatively big gears, my saddle 
was further back.  Now I spin climbs rather than pounding them.  My saddle 
is still further back than the patella-over-spindle starting point, but 
it's not nearly as far back as it used to be.  My back and glutes are less 
involved in the power phase, and my sitting position is more 
comfort-oriented than power-oriented, and the combination of spin and 
comfort lets me finish long days despite marginal fitness.  If I started 
riding with the local club again, fast pacelines, my bars would probably 
drop a bit, my saddle would move back a bit, and my 
back would be flatter than it is when riding liesurely solo rides.  
 
I also mess occasionally with my stem reach and rise.  My fit on the bike 
is not static, but evolves with fitness, age, and the style of the ride 
that I'm doing.  You've really got to listen to what your own body tells 
you.  Discomfort is the most immediate signal; pedalling efficiency is a 
more subtle guide.
 
 

On Saturday, August 18, 2012 9:42:19 AM UTC-7, pb wrote:

 The saddle should never be adjusted relative to the bars, but should be 
 adjusted relative to the pedal.  I use the traditional patella above the 
 pedal spindle (pedal at 90 degrees horizontal and forward) as the starting 
 point and then adjust for comfort from there.  I realize that arguments 
 have been made against that measurement, and that's fine.  I consider it a 
 helpful starting point, not a hard and fast rule.
  
 I always carry seat adjustment tools with me when riding, and I'll 
 occasionally stop to make adjustments, both front-back and up-down.  When I 
 was fit and strong, my saddle steadily migrated further back, which I find 
 offers superior power; in my current state of lack of fitness, my saddle 
 has migrated forward, which I find offers superior spin.
  
 Cheers
  
 Peter
  
   
 On Saturday, August 18, 2012 8:56:52 AM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 Hello,
  
 In Just ride, Grant talks about many aspects of fit, but doesn't go into 
 detail about reach fore/aft of saddle to bars. Also, about how far behind 
 the center of crank the saddle should be.
  
 These two dimensions could have a big effect on comfort.
 How do you set yours up?
 How does Riv set the new bikes up for you?
  
  



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Re: [RBW] How are Rivbikes painted?

2012-08-18 Thread David Yu Greenblatt
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTGtoTlJyh0

- David G in SF

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 8:49 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 What's the process?
 Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
 What type of clearcoat do they put on it?



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[RBW] Re: I've got a project bike. Do you want to do the conversion, or should I?

2012-08-18 Thread Montclair BobbyB
That'll be a nice ride... You could also eBay the slingshot stem/bar combo 
and the Deore brake levers and shifters to virtually eliminate any cash 
outlay... Heck, I'll give you $100 for all three

BB

On Friday, August 17, 2012 1:31:52 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I'm taking the budget route now.  

 1.  Mostly stock
 2.  Overhaul
 3.  1.75 New Express tires and presta tubes
 4.  a Noodle/tech dlx/tektro bar cockpit I already have
 5.  a black B17 I already have
 6.  super secret Silver barcons built from the Riv-Silver Thumbies
 7.  Silver SKS P55s I already have
 8.  Nitto Big front and Rear racks that I already have

 Total cash outlay is under $100.  That'll get it 100% useable for 
 road-evaluation.  Then I can think about justifying a nicer paint job (and 
 a couple more braze-ons)

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 9:17:44 PM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Yes, Bill... we always knew where this was heading... Hey, what say we 
 make this a group-build... Tom, you game  I'll be out in San 
 Francisco in October... 

 Hmmm, let's see... a black and creme 2-tone paint job... new Stumpy 
 decals... custom stainless S headbadge... 
 Dyno hub with front and rear BM lights...
 50mm Creme Fat Franks... Black fenders with creme pinstripingn and 
 chevrons
 Brooks B17 Special... maybe etched???
 killer front and rear racks...

 Oh yeah...a totally pimped out dream bike... 
 I will go to sleep now... 

 Peace,
 BB




 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 12:21:41 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 MBB

 You know how this is going to turn out.  :-P  

 Of course I'm going to end up doing the conversion.  It's particularly 
 inevitable for me since I already have a fun drop bar cockpit ready to go. 
  The cash out parts will be tires, tubes and brake pads.  Maybe fenders.  

 You also know that you and Tom are at fault for doing so many yummy 
 conversions and sharing photos of them.  I can't let you guys have all the 
 fun.

 Bill

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 8:28:38 AM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 BTW, my good friend and local (Sonoma) jeweler/cyclist from Healdsburg, 
 Scott Kalkman crafted the headbadge, and I'm confident could craft one for 
 this beauty... http://tinyurl.com/bmssvju

 BB

 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 11:04:04 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 William, you rascal...very tempting...  I have a serious weakness for 
 '85 Stumpies... but alas I already have my own (which I transformed into 
 a 
 kind of Atlantish tribute bike... http://tinyurl.com/8fu6kqx  )

 BUT TO ANYONE INTERESTED... THIS is an exceptional bike, and will make 
 a lifetime keeper touring/grocery-getter/head-turner/just-plain-awesome 
 RIDER!!!... 

 Good luck, William, and it's for a good cause.  BB

 On Monday, August 6, 2012 2:51:05 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 I've gotten a hold of an early 80s Stumpjumper Sport that appears to 
 be practically unridden.  Deer head derailleurs, specialized cranks and 
 hubs.  Lugged at the headtube and lugged unicrown fork.  Super long 
 chainstays.  I think it will make a great substitute for an Atlantis or 
 Bombadil type of touring bike.  I'm thinking the Compass 26 tires, or 
 maybe Big Apples, with fenders, and drop bars.  This came from the 
 Harding 
 Elementary School Dad's Club.  I could do a conversion and then try to 
 sell 
 it, but first I wanted to float it here to see if anyone in the Bay Area 
 was thinking of doing something like this and wanted to have the fun for 
 themselves.  Let me know if you think you'd like the shot at this.  I'm 
 thinking that $400 made out to Harding Elementary School would be enough 
 to 
 keep me from building a bombproof touring bike out of this.  Let me know 
 if 
 you want a crack at it.  Here's the photo set:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/sets/72157630935094690/ 

 I am especially interested in getting out of doing this conversion 
 because I always get emotionally attached to these projects and want to 
 keep them.  :)



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[RBW] Stolen simpleone in minneapolis

2012-08-18 Thread Phil Bickford
Sorry to hear of your loss.  Do tell if it was locked what type of lock and to 
what it was locked.

Keep a eye out for the components on craigslist.

Phil B

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[RBW] Want to trade racks?

2012-08-18 Thread john
I'm looking for a Mark's front rack for my Hillborne. I have a Nitto front 
rack (for cantis)  but I need the sidepull version now. 

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Re: [RBW] Removing chain guard glue glunk from frame

2012-08-18 Thread Joe Broach
Citra-solv is the best I've found. Stronger than goo-gone. Use outside
if possible as the orange smell lingers a while!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 8:44 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello,

 I have a chain guard that I peeled of the chainstay and there is lotsa glue
 goo left behind.

 I tried water, alcohol, and degreaser (not intentional), but all I get is
 some paint tint on the rag. The goo wont go.

 Anything I can try next? Don't wanna damage the finish.

 I don't wanna put on another chain guard because I like seeing as much of
 the beautiful frame as possible.

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[RBW] Re: Stolen simpleone in minneapolis

2012-08-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I'll be looking for it, Dylan.

On Friday, August 17, 2012 2:15:43 PM UTC-5, dylan alverson wrote:

 HI my 56 cm simple one was stolen off my porch last night if anyone sees 
 it.  It had a dura ace headset, phil bottom bracket, ta cranks, black sun 
 tour xc pedals, phil track wheels, white industries dos freewheel, nitto 
 post and stem albatross bars, paul levers and cantilevers, honey brooks b 
 17 special, a velo orange porteur rack, schwalbe kojak tires.  

 Thanks
 Dylan
 360-292-9126


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[RBW] Re: Hillborne review

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam
Pics, pics!! Love to see it.
 

On Saturday, August 18, 2012 12:23:08 PM UTC-4, Paul Yeoh wrote:

 Tried to post this to rivbike.com, but they only allow 1000 characters 
 and this review is about 5X that. 
 Hope it helps anyone looking at the Hillborne. 


 This review is overdue, I have had the bike almost 2 years now, and its 
 been through a few configurations. I didn't love it at first, but I really 
 do appreciate it now, I guess I've grown into the bike. 

 It might be good to first state that I don't fit the usual Riv customer 
 profile. I've been riding XC since 13 (age 32 at time of writing), and more 
 recently gotten into road riding. I love my go-fast kit, enjoy racing and 
 train with a heart rate monitor. That's not to say that I don't ever Just 
 Ride - I ride in a variety of ways. 

 I first specced my Hillborne with moustache bars, a schmidt dynohub 
 (powering BM lights front and rear) , phil rivy 7 speed rear hub, 42mm 
 marathon extremes (knobby) , tektro 720 cantis, MKS Sylvan pedals and B17 
 saddle. I went to town on this build, thinking it'd be my bike to tour the 
 world on. I didn't enjoy riding it so much, it felt slow on the road, and 
 not nearly as much fun as my racing hardtail off road. The moustache bars 
 have the cool XO look, but felt awkward to me - I could never settle into a 
 position for long.

 I didn't start to really enjoy and appreciate the bike until after making 
 several changes... which I would recommend to anyone who enjoys aggressive 
 riding.

 - Noodle bars and technomic stem: this handlebar setup gave me enough 
 positions to play with, both aggressive and relaxed. The only way to go, 
 imho. Much more comfortable over a long trip, and easier to crank out power 
  than on a moustache bar. 

 - Jack Brown tires: The best 700c tire for this bike! These make it 
 possible to keep up with slower roadies while being very comfortable and 
 secure. For the same effort that I can keep my 23mm road racer going at 40 
 kph, I can keep these tires going at 35 kph, which is pretty darn good 
 considering 50psi comfort and the Hillborne's significant heft. I feel that 
 a fatter, knobby tire like the 42mm marathon extreme is overkill for this 
 frame, and doesn't allow me to ride off road any faster anyway. 

 - Crankbrothers 50/50 platform pedals : these were actually for my full 
 suspension trail bike but were put on the Hillborne while the trail bike 
 was out of service. Its much easier to put power down on the bike with a 
 grippy platform pedal vs. a more slippery MKS Sylvan. It lets me charge 
 over rough surfaces and accelerate with a great deal more conviction = more 
 fun. I'd tried clipless pedals on the Hillborne too, but platforms allow 
 you to embrace the Rivendell / Grant philosophy properly, and it works 
 really well. 

 I've not been a huge fan of the Silver friction shifters, and I am just 
 about getting used to them now. I don't shift very often on this bike, 
 whereas I am constantly shifting on my road racer to keep power output at a 
 max. I prefer my dura-ace brifters, but I can appreciate that friction bar 
 ends do work well for this bike's intended purpose. 

 I ride this bike every where now. In any type of clothing, into any 
 non-extreme terrain. Commuting, adventuring, training, its never a bad time 
 to take the Riv out, especially when the terrain or weather is unexpected. 
 Ridden at an easy pace, this bike is effortless. Ridden hard, its fast 
 enough to feel fun and nimble. Not as quick as a road racer, but certainly 
 quick enough. The ride is like most would rave about - supple, confident, 
 secure. I agree wholeheartedly with Grant that if you had just one bike, 
 you couldn't do better, though knowing what I know now, I might've sprung 
 for a Roadeo instead, specced it with a full Ultegra 2x10 drivetrain, and 
 reduced my stable by one bike.

 Complaints: I did have regular trouble with chain suck when the bike from 
 new. It tends to be a problem when riding very muddy/dusty terrain.  I 
 generally don't ride so much dirt with the hillborne now, and also keep the 
 drivetrain clean and well lubed, and the problem is not present then. Dirt 
 roads are generally fine, singletrack tends to cause problems. 

 I also managed to break the frame whilst riding some singletrack. Not a 
 very big impact, riding up a river embankment, nothing that threw me off 
 the bike, but I cracked the joints joining the headtube to downtube and 
 lower top tube (56 cm, Waterford, double top tube model) This is not  a 
 strike against Riv or Waterford - these things happen, and no manufacturer 
 is 100%. To Riv's credit, John handled the matter most graciously and 
 offered me a chance to buy a shop model at a deeply discounted price w 
 frame swap. My problem was that being based in South East Asia, shipping 
 would be prohibitively expensive. Since one of the selling points of a 
 steel bike is its repairability, I went with that route, and 

Re: [RBW] Montana photos

2012-08-18 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
on the gravel sections, part of which is the ACA Great Divide route, the 
main traffic issue was dust. On the Inside North Fork Road, the middle 
section of the road is closed to cars for various reasons. It was a very 
rustic wilderness experience, complete with large piles of grizzly poop! 
The Going to the Sun Road was high traffic, but we just pulled over 
whenever 5 or so cars piled up behind us, and they went around. We were 
also helped by a construction flagman who closed the road for about 20-30 
minutes after we passed through! It was a terrific experience, but a person 
can only see a small portion of the mostly roadless park by bike.

On Saturday, August 18, 2012 2:04:05 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:

 Love the photos, Jim!  Glacier is one of my favorite places in the world. 
  How was the riding?  Did you find traffic to be a problem at this time of 
 year?

 Brian
 Seattle, WA

 On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 11:10 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 thil...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 Just got back from a memorable 6 days of riding and camping in NW 
 Montana, in and around Glacier NP. No Rivendells on the trip, but you may 
 enjoy some of the photos anyway:
 http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2012/08/back-from-montana.html

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[RBW] Re: Bleriot Attire

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam


 Don't forget the scarf!!


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[RBW] Re: Stolen simpleone in minneapolis

2012-08-18 Thread Ryan
Please tell us it was locked up. Bummer! I really hope you get your bike 
back. 

Theft is endemic in Winnipeg. I lock the commuters(X0-1, Peugeot PX-10 
converted to SS) in the garage and the Rivs I keep in the house. 
Unfortunately, if thieves are determined,no security is completely 
foolproof but I'm sure you don't need to hear that.

Good luck

On Friday, August 17, 2012 2:15:43 PM UTC-5, dylan alverson wrote:

 HI my 56 cm simple one was stolen off my porch last night if anyone sees 
 it.  It had a dura ace headset, phil bottom bracket, ta cranks, black sun 
 tour xc pedals, phil track wheels, white industries dos freewheel, nitto 
 post and stem albatross bars, paul levers and cantilevers, honey brooks b 
 17 special, a velo orange porteur rack, schwalbe kojak tires.  

 Thanks
 Dylan
 360-292-9126


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Re: [RBW] Re: Which headbadge/DT/ST art set do you like best on Rivbik es?

2012-08-18 Thread Ryan
Custom the best

On Monday, August 13, 2012 7:43:57 PM UTC-5, mike goldman wrote:

 i have a copy of the headbadge poster so its easy to peruse...i like the 
 second one

 mike goldman

 warwick,r.i.
  
 
 NetZero now offers 4G mobile broadband. Sign up 
 now.http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT1
  

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[RBW] 60cm Sam Hillborne $500 Seattle CL

2012-08-18 Thread rcnute
Not mine, wish it was a 56!

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/3214087117.html

Ryan

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Re: [RBW] 60cm Sam Hillborne $500 Seattle CL

2012-08-18 Thread cyclotourist
Sold!

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 12:23 PM, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Not mine, wish it was a 56!

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/3214087117.html

 Ryan

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

**
“I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
love.”

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[RBW] Re: How are Rivbikes painted?

2012-08-18 Thread Jim Cloud
Hobbits from Rivendell carefully paint each bike.

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Aug 18, 8:49 am, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 What's the process?
 Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
 What type of clearcoat do they put on it?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hillborne review

2012-08-18 Thread cyclotourist
Great to hear the repair-ability part. We hear how steel is easily
repairable, but never really hear of anyone doing it!

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 11:41 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Pics, pics!! Love to see it.


 On Saturday, August 18, 2012 12:23:08 PM UTC-4, Paul Yeoh wrote:

 Tried to post this to rivbike.com, but they only allow 1000 characters
 and this review is about 5X that.
 Hope it helps anyone looking at the Hillborne.


 This review is overdue, I have had the bike almost 2 years now, and its
 been through a few configurations. I didn't love it at first, but I really
 do appreciate it now, I guess I've grown into the bike.

 It might be good to first state that I don't fit the usual Riv customer
 profile. I've been riding XC since 13 (age 32 at time of writing), and more
 recently gotten into road riding. I love my go-fast kit, enjoy racing and
 train with a heart rate monitor. That's not to say that I don't ever Just
 Ride - I ride in a variety of ways.

 I first specced my Hillborne with moustache bars, a schmidt dynohub
 (powering BM lights front and rear) , phil rivy 7 speed rear hub, 42mm
 marathon extremes (knobby) , tektro 720 cantis, MKS Sylvan pedals and B17
 saddle. I went to town on this build, thinking it'd be my bike to tour the
 world on. I didn't enjoy riding it so much, it felt slow on the road, and
 not nearly as much fun as my racing hardtail off road. The moustache bars
 have the cool XO look, but felt awkward to me - I could never settle into a
 position for long.

 I didn't start to really enjoy and appreciate the bike until after making
 several changes... which I would recommend to anyone who enjoys aggressive
 riding.

 - Noodle bars and technomic stem: this handlebar setup gave me enough
 positions to play with, both aggressive and relaxed. The only way to go,
 imho. Much more comfortable over a long trip, and easier to crank out power
  than on a moustache bar.

 - Jack Brown tires: The best 700c tire for this bike! These make it
 possible to keep up with slower roadies while being very comfortable and
 secure. For the same effort that I can keep my 23mm road racer going at 40
 kph, I can keep these tires going at 35 kph, which is pretty darn good
 considering 50psi comfort and the Hillborne's significant heft. I feel that
 a fatter, knobby tire like the 42mm marathon extreme is overkill for this
 frame, and doesn't allow me to ride off road any faster anyway.

 - Crankbrothers 50/50 platform pedals : these were actually for my full
 suspension trail bike but were put on the Hillborne while the trail bike
 was out of service. Its much easier to put power down on the bike with a
 grippy platform pedal vs. a more slippery MKS Sylvan. It lets me charge
 over rough surfaces and accelerate with a great deal more conviction = more
 fun. I'd tried clipless pedals on the Hillborne too, but platforms allow
 you to embrace the Rivendell / Grant philosophy properly, and it works
 really well.

 I've not been a huge fan of the Silver friction shifters, and I am just
 about getting used to them now. I don't shift very often on this bike,
 whereas I am constantly shifting on my road racer to keep power output at a
 max. I prefer my dura-ace brifters, but I can appreciate that friction bar
 ends do work well for this bike's intended purpose.

 I ride this bike every where now. In any type of clothing, into any
 non-extreme terrain. Commuting, adventuring, training, its never a bad time
 to take the Riv out, especially when the terrain or weather is unexpected.
 Ridden at an easy pace, this bike is effortless. Ridden hard, its fast
 enough to feel fun and nimble. Not as quick as a road racer, but certainly
 quick enough. The ride is like most would rave about - supple, confident,
 secure. I agree wholeheartedly with Grant that if you had just one bike,
 you couldn't do better, though knowing what I know now, I might've sprung
 for a Roadeo instead, specced it with a full Ultegra 2x10 drivetrain, and
 reduced my stable by one bike.

 Complaints: I did have regular trouble with chain suck when the bike from
 new. It tends to be a problem when riding very muddy/dusty terrain.  I
 generally don't ride so much dirt with the hillborne now, and also keep the
 drivetrain clean and well lubed, and the problem is not present then. Dirt
 roads are generally fine, singletrack tends to cause problems.

 I also managed to break the frame whilst riding some singletrack. Not a
 very big impact, riding up a river embankment, nothing that threw me off
 the bike, but I cracked the joints joining the headtube to downtube and
 lower top tube (56 cm, Waterford, double top tube model) This is not  a
 strike against Riv or Waterford - these things happen, and no manufacturer
 is 100%. To Riv's credit, John handled the matter most graciously and
 offered me a chance to buy a shop model at a deeply discounted price w
 frame swap. My problem was that being based in South East Asia, shipping
 

RE: [RBW] Re: How are Rivbikes painted?

2012-08-18 Thread Marc Schwartz
Trolls paint CF?

-Anonymous-

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] on 
behalf of Jim Cloud [cloud...@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:48 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: How are Rivbikes painted?

Hobbits from Rivendell carefully paint each bike.

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Aug 18, 8:49 am, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 What's the process?
 Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
 What type of clearcoat do they put on it?

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Re: [RBW] How are Rivbikes painted?

2012-08-18 Thread Leslie

On Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:28:33 PM UTC-4, David G wrote:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTGtoTlJyh0

 - David G in SF

 On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 8:49 AM, lungimsam john1...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 What's the process?
 Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
 What type of clearcoat do they put on it?



Love that video...

FWIW, if you get a custom, or opt for the paint upcharge, Joe Bell then 
does them.

Interviews from the RR w/ Joe are here:
http://www.campyonly.com/joebell/interview.html
http://www.campyonly.com/joebell/How%20We%20Paint%20Bikes%20by%20Joe%20Bell%20and%20Crew.html
 

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Re: [RBW] Removing chain guard glue glunk from frame

2012-08-18 Thread Bruce Herbitter
Goof Off. I've used it for this exact purpose and it works like a charm. I
got it at Home Depot

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 1:23 PM, Joe Broach joebro...@gmail.com wrote:

 Citra-solv is the best I've found. Stronger than goo-gone. Use outside
 if possible as the orange smell lingers a while!

 Best,
 joe broach
 portland, or


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[RBW] Re: Bleriot Attire

2012-08-18 Thread rcnute
I vote for a new model: The Dick Dastardly.  
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dick_Dastardly

Ryan

On Aug 14, 6:42 am, Marc Schwartz mschw...@nmsu.edu wrote:
 Hola!

 Does anyone know where to get a (Rocky the Flying Squirrel) leather aviator 
 hatgoggles  to wear when planing on my Bleriot?

 Note; hilarious relationship between Bleriot and Planing was pointed out by 
 a prominent listmember a few months back. Kudos! It still cracks me up!

 Marc

 He swore at the Devil,
 Then he went for a ride.

 -Radney Foster-
 
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] 
 on behalf of Marc Schwartz [mschw...@nmsu.edu]
 Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 6:28 AM
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: RE: [RBW] Re: Mystery Bike!

 Huzzah! Huzzah!

 Roll bar behind Brooks Banana? 5 speed emascultor Hurst -type rear 
 derailer shifter on top tube? I think Rat Fink is still copyrighted, but 
 Rangutan is better. GREAT

 Is that coffee ready yet?
 
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] 
 on behalf of lungimsam [john11.2...@gmail.com]
 Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 10:15 PM
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [RBW] Re: Mystery Bike!

 I would call it the Rivendell 'Rangutan.

 Brooks banana seat, Nitto Ape-Hangers, paint it Orangutan Rust (like their 
 coats), and use Cocoanut husk to twine the bar tape/bamboo grips.

 The vine-like stays would finish off the jungle motif along with an Orangutan 
 Headbadge and DT label of the word 'Rangutan with a vine running throughout 
 the word, and a 'tan swinging on the end of the vine- a la Bleriot with the 
 plane and its trail.

 (DT design could alternatively be a dust trail through the name, with the 
 bike at one end with Grant and Orangutan riding in the banana seat - a la 
 Bleriot design with plane and trail.)

 The name would also porvide an easy way to circumvent any TM's or R's or 
 copyrights, as
 I think the Rivfolks could emerge from the naming meeting, satisfied that the 
 term 'Rangutan is not used anywhere else for anything, worldwide.

 Seriously, this is a great looking bike, be sure to post pics of the build!! 
 I wonder what the name really is? I like that green.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hillborne review

2012-08-18 Thread James Warren
7 years ago, I had to bend back my front dropout on the Ram fork. Good as new 
in just a few minutes for something that initially had made me gasp. I was 
happy to have steel then.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 18, 2012, at 12:49 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:

 Great to hear the repair-ability part. We hear how steel is easily 
 repairable, but never really hear of anyone doing it!
 
 On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 11:41 AM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
 Pics, pics!! Love to see it.
  
 
 On Saturday, August 18, 2012 12:23:08 PM UTC-4, Paul Yeoh wrote:
 Tried to post this to rivbike.com, but they only allow 1000 characters and 
 this review is about 5X that. 
 Hope it helps anyone looking at the Hillborne. 
 
 
 This review is overdue, I have had the bike almost 2 years now, and its been 
 through a few configurations. I didn't love it at first, but I really do 
 appreciate it now, I guess I've grown into the bike. 
 
 It might be good to first state that I don't fit the usual Riv customer 
 profile. I've been riding XC since 13 (age 32 at time of writing), and more 
 recently gotten into road riding. I love my go-fast kit, enjoy racing and 
 train with a heart rate monitor. That's not to say that I don't ever Just 
 Ride - I ride in a variety of ways. 
 
 I first specced my Hillborne with moustache bars, a schmidt dynohub (powering 
 BM lights front and rear) , phil rivy 7 speed rear hub, 42mm marathon 
 extremes (knobby) , tektro 720 cantis, MKS Sylvan pedals and B17 saddle. I 
 went to town on this build, thinking it'd be my bike to tour the world on. I 
 didn't enjoy riding it so much, it felt slow on the road, and not nearly as 
 much fun as my racing hardtail off road. The moustache bars have the cool XO 
 look, but felt awkward to me - I could never settle into a position for long.
 
 I didn't start to really enjoy and appreciate the bike until after making 
 several changes... which I would recommend to anyone who enjoys aggressive 
 riding.
 
 - Noodle bars and technomic stem: this handlebar setup gave me enough 
 positions to play with, both aggressive and relaxed. The only way to go, 
 imho. Much more comfortable over a long trip, and easier to crank out power  
 than on a moustache bar. 
 
 - Jack Brown tires: The best 700c tire for this bike! These make it possible 
 to keep up with slower roadies while being very comfortable and secure. For 
 the same effort that I can keep my 23mm road racer going at 40 kph, I can 
 keep these tires going at 35 kph, which is pretty darn good considering 50psi 
 comfort and the Hillborne's significant heft. I feel that a fatter, knobby 
 tire like the 42mm marathon extreme is overkill for this frame, and doesn't 
 allow me to ride off road any faster anyway. 
 
 - Crankbrothers 50/50 platform pedals : these were actually for my full 
 suspension trail bike but were put on the Hillborne while the trail bike was 
 out of service. Its much easier to put power down on the bike with a grippy 
 platform pedal vs. a more slippery MKS Sylvan. It lets me charge over rough 
 surfaces and accelerate with a great deal more conviction = more fun. I'd 
 tried clipless pedals on the Hillborne too, but platforms allow you to 
 embrace the Rivendell / Grant philosophy properly, and it works really well. 
 
 I've not been a huge fan of the Silver friction shifters, and I am just about 
 getting used to them now. I don't shift very often on this bike, whereas I am 
 constantly shifting on my road racer to keep power output at a max. I prefer 
 my dura-ace brifters, but I can appreciate that friction bar ends do work 
 well for this bike's intended purpose. 
 
 I ride this bike every where now. In any type of clothing, into any 
 non-extreme terrain. Commuting, adventuring, training, its never a bad time 
 to take the Riv out, especially when the terrain or weather is unexpected. 
 Ridden at an easy pace, this bike is effortless. Ridden hard, its fast enough 
 to feel fun and nimble. Not as quick as a road racer, but certainly quick 
 enough. The ride is like most would rave about - supple, confident, secure. I 
 agree wholeheartedly with Grant that if you had just one bike, you couldn't 
 do better, though knowing what I know now, I might've sprung for a Roadeo 
 instead, specced it with a full Ultegra 2x10 drivetrain, and reduced my 
 stable by one bike.
 
 Complaints: I did have regular trouble with chain suck when the bike from 
 new. It tends to be a problem when riding very muddy/dusty terrain.  I 
 generally don't ride so much dirt with the hillborne now, and also keep the 
 drivetrain clean and well lubed, and the problem is not present then. Dirt 
 roads are generally fine, singletrack tends to cause problems. 
 
 I also managed to break the frame whilst riding some singletrack. Not a very 
 big impact, riding up a river embankment, nothing that threw me off the bike, 
 but I cracked the joints joining the headtube to downtube and lower top tube 
 

Re: [RBW] How are Rivbikes painted?

2012-08-18 Thread Joe Bernard
My favorite part of that video is the seattube panel. He eyes it quickly, 
then..BAM. The decal is on perfectly. Amazing.
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Saturday, August 18, 2012 2:01:38 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:


 On Saturday, August 18, 2012 1:28:33 PM UTC-4, David G wrote:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTGtoTlJyh0

 - David G in SF

 On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 8:49 AM, lungimsam john1...@gmail.com wrote:

 What's the process?
 Is it powdercoat, or some other way?
 What type of clearcoat do they put on it?



 Love that video...

 FWIW, if you get a custom, or opt for the paint upcharge, Joe Bell then 
 does them.

 Interviews from the RR w/ Joe are here:
 http://www.campyonly.com/joebell/interview.html

 http://www.campyonly.com/joebell/How%20We%20Paint%20Bikes%20by%20Joe%20Bell%20and%20Crew.html
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Stolen simpleone in minneapolis

2012-08-18 Thread Eric Platt
I'll also keep an eye open.  Thought I had the only SimpleOne in the Twin
Cities.  Mine is a 60 if anyone sees me on it.  Oh, and it has a Shimano
Alfine crank which is about as not a TA crank as one can get.

Bummer on the theft.  Hopefully it'll turn up soon.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 1:50 PM, Ryan ryter...@mts.net wrote:

 Please tell us it was locked up. Bummer! I really hope you get your bike
 back.

 Theft is endemic in Winnipeg. I lock the commuters(X0-1, Peugeot PX-10
 converted to SS) in the garage and the Rivs I keep in the house.
 Unfortunately, if thieves are determined,no security is completely
 foolproof but I'm sure you don't need to hear that.

 Good luck


 On Friday, August 17, 2012 2:15:43 PM UTC-5, dylan alverson wrote:

 HI my 56 cm simple one was stolen off my porch last night if anyone sees
 it.  It had a dura ace headset, phil bottom bracket, ta cranks, black sun
 tour xc pedals, phil track wheels, white industries dos freewheel, nitto
 post and stem albatross bars, paul levers and cantilevers, honey brooks b
 17 special, a velo orange porteur rack, schwalbe kojak tires.

 Thanks
 Dylan
 360-292-9126

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[RBW] Re: Saluki porn

2012-08-18 Thread jeffrey kane
I'll post some close ups next week...

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[RBW] Re: Saluki porn

2012-08-18 Thread jeffrey kane
Yes, the bridge is original and the frame has a nice rear cable hanger welded 
in place as well ... this, I believe is because the first runs of these frames 
predate the silvers or Tektro calipers. I've run both and found a little more 
room for the fenders with the center pulls (particularly in front). Maybe the 
side pull calipers are a little nicer feeling ... but not enough to be bothered 
over.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread Peter Morgano
Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and bringin in my
Bombadi to the LBS to have them tweak the brakes. I finally got them to
stop squeaking but feel like I need to grip them like a gorilla to make
them work well.  As much as I dont like the looks of v-brakes if I didnt
have an attachmen to my standard levers I would go that way.

On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust!  What kind of pedals am
 I seeing?  There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but after
 a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them on 
 off when you want to.

 Michael


 On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM UTC-4, The Cripler wrote:

 Several weeks back, with the hearty encouragement of this forums
 members, I purchased my first Rivendell - a used 58cm Atlantis. It was a
 deal that was too good to pass up, and I have been nothing but incredibly
 happy that I made the leap. Since the purchase, I have been tweaking the
 bike fit and swapping out some parts. I was able to recoup some much needed
  with the sale of my Surly LHT and host of parts from my bin. This
 allowed me to make some nice upgrades to the Atlantis. Since the purchase I
 have swapped out stems to a 100 Nitto Technimic, added a Paul
 Neo-retro/Touring brake combo, splurged on the Tektro TRP brake levers,
 rerouted my brake and derailleur cables, and finally last night added
 yellow Newbaums cloth tape and twine to the Noodles. All that is left to do
 is get some amber shellac on the bars, and I am ready to ride! Through the
 process I have learned alot...mostly about the joys of tweaking with
 canti brakes and the importance of taping your brake cables where you want
 them prior to wrapping and twining (still might have to fix this one). Here
 are some pics:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bp1cCFGAnwU/UC0DamiyQDI/ACs/sOQqlu3FpAM/s1600/IMG_1022%5B1%5D.JPG


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[RBW] Re: Saluki porn

2012-08-18 Thread Marty
The badge is a modified version of one of two cast Saluki badges. You can 
see the original in this photo:

*http://tinyurl.com/clmfjfy*

Not sure which came first, but there were two versions of theSaluki badge. 
Who doesn't like dogs? 

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[RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread ted
I only skimmed over that write up, but I think its much simpler to
stick with vertical and horizontal components at the cable attachment
to the brake. The vertical component is independent of straddle wire
angle, the horizontal part goes to infinity as the straddle wire
becomes straight. I think there is a lot less trig to work through
when you skip that whole tangent point on the straddle wire thing and
since its not necessary why bother?

On Aug 17, 3:26 pm, Matt Beebe matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's a link to a cool document describing the MA for various brake
 profiles:  http://www.circleacycles.com/cantilevers/canti-geometry.pdf
 It even uses as an Paul Neo Retros as an example.

 -Matt







 On Friday, August 17, 2012 1:42:32 PM UTC-4, Mojo wrote:

  Funny how canti brakes are so simple yet quite theoretically and
  operationally quite complicated. As I understand canti operations, I agree
  with Jeremy that you will gain some mechanical advantage from a lower
  straddle cable. You might also run fine sandpaper along the rim braking
  surface just to insure it is clean and 'open' to the brake pads.

  After you have ridden it for awhile, I would like to hear your
  comparison/contrast to the LHT, a bike with different tube diameters and
  thickness but very similar geometry.

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[RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread ted
I only skimmed over that write up, but I think its much simpler to
stick with vertical and horizontal components at the cable attachment
to the brake. The vertical component is independent of straddle wire
angle, the horizontal part goes to infinity as the straddle wire
becomes straight. I think there is a lot less trig to work through
when you skip that whole tangent point on the straddle wire thing and
since its not necessary why bother?

On Aug 17, 3:26 pm, Matt Beebe matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's a link to a cool document describing the MA for various brake
 profiles:  http://www.circleacycles.com/cantilevers/canti-geometry.pdf
 It even uses as an Paul Neo Retros as an example.

 -Matt







 On Friday, August 17, 2012 1:42:32 PM UTC-4, Mojo wrote:

  Funny how canti brakes are so simple yet quite theoretically and
  operationally quite complicated. As I understand canti operations, I agree
  with Jeremy that you will gain some mechanical advantage from a lower
  straddle cable. You might also run fine sandpaper along the rim braking
  surface just to insure it is clean and 'open' to the brake pads.

  After you have ridden it for awhile, I would like to hear your
  comparison/contrast to the LHT, a bike with different tube diameters and
  thickness but very similar geometry.

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[RBW] Re: Which headbadge/DT/ST art set do you like best on Rivbikes?

2012-08-18 Thread Marty


On Tuesday, August 14, 2012 3:29:56 PM UTC-5, Jim Cloud wrote:

 I think that an interesting variant of a Rivendell Saluki headbadge 
 done as a custom by the owner (Ed Braley),  for his personal Saluki 
 bicycle is in this Flickr photostream set: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/25373440@N00/sets/72157600061466973/ 

 Yeah - that badge mod is pretty nice. There were two different Saluki 
 badges made. Not sure why, but here's the original version as reference:


 *http://tinyurl.com/clmfjfy*

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[RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread ted
What kind of brakes do you have?
It took me a while to get the cr720s on my Bombadill to run quiet but
they are fine now.

On Aug 18, 6:45 pm, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
 good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and bringin in my
 Bombadi to the LBS to have them tweak the brakes. I finally got them to
 stop squeaking but feel like I need to grip them like a gorilla to make
 them work well.  As much as I dont like the looks of v-brakes if I didnt
 have an attachmen to my standard levers I would go that way.







 On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
  Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust!  What kind of pedals am
  I seeing?  There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but after
  a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them on 
  off when you want to.

  Michael

  On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM UTC-4, The Cripler wrote:

  Several weeks back, with the hearty encouragement of this forums
  members, I purchased my first Rivendell - a used 58cm Atlantis. It was a
  deal that was too good to pass up, and I have been nothing but incredibly
  happy that I made the leap. Since the purchase, I have been tweaking the
  bike fit and swapping out some parts. I was able to recoup some much needed
   with the sale of my Surly LHT and host of parts from my bin. This
  allowed me to make some nice upgrades to the Atlantis. Since the purchase I
  have swapped out stems to a 100 Nitto Technimic, added a Paul
  Neo-retro/Touring brake combo, splurged on the Tektro TRP brake levers,
  rerouted my brake and derailleur cables, and finally last night added
  yellow Newbaums cloth tape and twine to the Noodles. All that is left to do
  is get some amber shellac on the bars, and I am ready to ride! Through the
  process I have learned alot...mostly about the joys of tweaking with
  canti brakes and the importance of taping your brake cables where you want
  them prior to wrapping and twining (still might have to fix this one). Here
  are some pics:

  https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bp1cCFGAnwU/UC0DamiyQDI/AC...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread Peter Morgano
Paul touring,  I noticed now my cable straddle is pretty high but lowering
it means replacement on the cables.  Will wait for a rainy day and see if I
can get it right.  Front is pretty good but rear is somewhat tight.
On Aug 19, 2012 12:02 AM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:

 What kind of brakes do you have?
 It took me a while to get the cr720s on my Bombadill to run quiet but
 they are fine now.

 On Aug 18, 6:45 pm, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
  Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
  good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and bringin in my
  Bombadi to the LBS to have them tweak the brakes. I finally got them to
  stop squeaking but feel like I need to grip them like a gorilla to make
  them work well.  As much as I dont like the looks of v-brakes if I didnt
  have an attachmen to my standard levers I would go that way.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com
 wrote:
   Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust!  What kind of
 pedals am
   I seeing?  There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but
 after
   a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them on
 
   off when you want to.
 
   Michael
 
   On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM UTC-4, The Cripler wrote:
 
   Several weeks back, with the hearty encouragement of this forums
   members, I purchased my first Rivendell - a used 58cm Atlantis. It
 was a
   deal that was too good to pass up, and I have been nothing but
 incredibly
   happy that I made the leap. Since the purchase, I have been tweaking
 the
   bike fit and swapping out some parts. I was able to recoup some much
 needed
    with the sale of my Surly LHT and host of parts from my bin. This
   allowed me to make some nice upgrades to the Atlantis. Since the
 purchase I
   have swapped out stems to a 100 Nitto Technimic, added a Paul
   Neo-retro/Touring brake combo, splurged on the Tektro TRP brake
 levers,
   rerouted my brake and derailleur cables, and finally last night added
   yellow Newbaums cloth tape and twine to the Noodles. All that is left
 to do
   is get some amber shellac on the bars, and I am ready to ride!
 Through the
   process I have learned alot...mostly about the joys of tweaking with
   canti brakes and the importance of taping your brake cables where you
 want
   them prior to wrapping and twining (still might have to fix this
 one). Here
   are some pics:
 
   
 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bp1cCFGAnwU/UC0DamiyQDI/AC...
 
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[RBW] Re: Which headbadge/DT/ST art set do you like best on Rivbikes?

2012-08-18 Thread Marty
I guess I should weigh in as I was able to have every badge in hand for a 
while. I can narrow it down to two. Even though I own a Bombadil and a 
Quickbeam, it's a close race between the silver and blue Rivendell custom 
badge, and the Hunqapiller. Both seen here:

*http://tinyurl.com/cwl2al7*
*
*
*http://tinyurl.com/8u8az3s
*
*
*
Then again, the Legolas is really, really nice. And the Atlantis. And the 
Rambouillet. And the Bleriot...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread Peter Morgano
I mean replacing the brake wires, not the actual cables. Not the biggest
job I know but fiddling with brakes is tedious work. I like how the Pauls
have adjustable tension and i would like to acutally have more snap back
but then it really goes gorilla hand mode. Am I missing something to the
setup?  I had the CR720s and they were easier to set up but didnt stop my
250lbs all that well, even with koolstop pads.

On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 12:05 AM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.comwrote:

 Paul touring,  I noticed now my cable straddle is pretty high but lowering
 it means replacement on the cables.  Will wait for a rainy day and see if I
 can get it right.  Front is pretty good but rear is somewhat tight.
 On Aug 19, 2012 12:02 AM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:

 What kind of brakes do you have?
 It took me a while to get the cr720s on my Bombadill to run quiet but
 they are fine now.

 On Aug 18, 6:45 pm, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
  Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
  good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and bringin in my
  Bombadi to the LBS to have them tweak the brakes. I finally got them to
  stop squeaking but feel like I need to grip them like a gorilla to make
  them work well.  As much as I dont like the looks of v-brakes if I didnt
  have an attachmen to my standard levers I would go that way.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com
 wrote:
   Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust!  What kind of
 pedals am
   I seeing?  There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but
 after
   a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them
 on 
   off when you want to.
 
   Michael
 
   On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM UTC-4, The Cripler wrote:
 
   Several weeks back, with the hearty encouragement of this forums
   members, I purchased my first Rivendell - a used 58cm Atlantis. It
 was a
   deal that was too good to pass up, and I have been nothing but
 incredibly
   happy that I made the leap. Since the purchase, I have been tweaking
 the
   bike fit and swapping out some parts. I was able to recoup some much
 needed
    with the sale of my Surly LHT and host of parts from my bin.
 This
   allowed me to make some nice upgrades to the Atlantis. Since the
 purchase I
   have swapped out stems to a 100 Nitto Technimic, added a Paul
   Neo-retro/Touring brake combo, splurged on the Tektro TRP brake
 levers,
   rerouted my brake and derailleur cables, and finally last night added
   yellow Newbaums cloth tape and twine to the Noodles. All that is
 left to do
   is get some amber shellac on the bars, and I am ready to ride!
 Through the
   process I have learned alot...mostly about the joys of tweaking
 with
   canti brakes and the importance of taping your brake cables where
 you want
   them prior to wrapping and twining (still might have to fix this
 one). Here
   are some pics:
 
   
 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bp1cCFGAnwU/UC0DamiyQDI/AC...
 
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[RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread ted
Sometimes it seems that cables are the bane of my existence. I've
taken to leaving em as long as I can minimize the need to replace em
if  I decide to change something. I recently replaced an old stem with
a taller one and now the front brake cable and housing are only barely
long enough to permit dragging my feet over replacing them. g.

On Aug 18, 9:05 pm, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 Paul touring,  I noticed now my cable straddle is pretty high but lowering
 it means replacement on the cables.  Will wait for a rainy day and see if I
 can get it right.  Front is pretty good but rear is somewhat tight.
 On Aug 19, 2012 12:02 AM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:







  What kind of brakes do you have?
  It took me a while to get the cr720s on my Bombadill to run quiet but
  they are fine now.

  On Aug 18, 6:45 pm, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
   Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
   good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and bringin in my
   Bombadi to the LBS to have them tweak the brakes. I finally got them to
   stop squeaking but feel like I need to grip them like a gorilla to make
   them work well.  As much as I dont like the looks of v-brakes if I didnt
   have an attachmen to my standard levers I would go that way.

   On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com
  wrote:
Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust!  What kind of
  pedals am
I seeing?  There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but
  after
a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them on
  
off when you want to.

Michael

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM UTC-4, The Cripler wrote:

Several weeks back, with the hearty encouragement of this forums
members, I purchased my first Rivendell - a used 58cm Atlantis. It
  was a
deal that was too good to pass up, and I have been nothing but
  incredibly
happy that I made the leap. Since the purchase, I have been tweaking
  the
bike fit and swapping out some parts. I was able to recoup some much
  needed
 with the sale of my Surly LHT and host of parts from my bin. This
allowed me to make some nice upgrades to the Atlantis. Since the
  purchase I
have swapped out stems to a 100 Nitto Technimic, added a Paul
Neo-retro/Touring brake combo, splurged on the Tektro TRP brake
  levers,
rerouted my brake and derailleur cables, and finally last night added
yellow Newbaums cloth tape and twine to the Noodles. All that is left
  to do
is get some amber shellac on the bars, and I am ready to ride!
  Through the
process I have learned alot...mostly about the joys of tweaking with
canti brakes and the importance of taping your brake cables where you
  want
them prior to wrapping and twining (still might have to fix this
  one). Here
are some pics:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bp1cCFGAnwU/UC0DamiyQDI/AC...

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[RBW] Re: Altantis almost complete!

2012-08-18 Thread ted
I have never used the Pauls, and you have a fair bit more mass to slow
down than I do, so my experiences may not be relevant.
If the straddle wire end of the brake is above the pivot point (when
the pads are touching he rim) then the lower the straddle wire, the
more leverage you are going to get. That leverage comes at the expense
of greater bake lever travel which can limit how low you want to go
with some brakes (particularly low profile ones). Some folks end up
toeing in their pads a lot to stop squeel. That tends to make brakes
perform poorly (though quietly). With the 720s I need to disengage the
return springs when I set the pads. I hold both pads against the rim
at the same time, and roll the wheel forward so everything is where it
ends up under braking before tightening the bolt.
The way the Pauls are built they probably don't rock as much at the
720s do so maybe thats not as big an issue with them.

On Aug 18, 9:09 pm, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 I mean replacing the brake wires, not the actual cables. Not the biggest
 job I know but fiddling with brakes is tedious work. I like how the Pauls
 have adjustable tension and i would like to acutally have more snap back
 but then it really goes gorilla hand mode. Am I missing something to the
 setup?  I had the CR720s and they were easier to set up but didnt stop my
 250lbs all that well, even with koolstop pads.

 On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 12:05 AM, Peter Morgano 
 uscpeter11...@gmail.comwrote:







  Paul touring,  I noticed now my cable straddle is pretty high but lowering
  it means replacement on the cables.  Will wait for a rainy day and see if I
  can get it right.  Front is pretty good but rear is somewhat tight.
  On Aug 19, 2012 12:02 AM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:

  What kind of brakes do you have?
  It took me a while to get the cr720s on my Bombadill to run quiet but
  they are fine now.

  On Aug 18, 6:45 pm, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
   Nice stuff, did you hand paint that rear rack or find a spray that was a
   good match? I am this close to just admitting defeat and bringin in my
   Bombadi to the LBS to have them tweak the brakes. I finally got them to
   stop squeaking but feel like I need to grip them like a gorilla to make
   them work well.  As much as I dont like the looks of v-brakes if I didnt
   have an attachmen to my standard levers I would go that way.

   On Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com
  wrote:
Very sweet looking. It reignites my Atlantis lust!  What kind of
  pedals am
I seeing?  There is definitely a learning curve to Paul's cantis, but
  after
a short while it will seem very easy to readjust them, or take them
  on 
off when you want to.

Michael

On Thursday, August 16, 2012 10:29:52 AM UTC-4, The Cripler wrote:

Several weeks back, with the hearty encouragement of this forums
members, I purchased my first Rivendell - a used 58cm Atlantis. It
  was a
deal that was too good to pass up, and I have been nothing but
  incredibly
happy that I made the leap. Since the purchase, I have been tweaking
  the
bike fit and swapping out some parts. I was able to recoup some much
  needed
 with the sale of my Surly LHT and host of parts from my bin.
  This
allowed me to make some nice upgrades to the Atlantis. Since the
  purchase I
have swapped out stems to a 100 Nitto Technimic, added a Paul
Neo-retro/Touring brake combo, splurged on the Tektro TRP brake
  levers,
rerouted my brake and derailleur cables, and finally last night added
yellow Newbaums cloth tape and twine to the Noodles. All that is
  left to do
is get some amber shellac on the bars, and I am ready to ride!
  Through the
process I have learned alot...mostly about the joys of tweaking
  with
canti brakes and the importance of taping your brake cables where
  you want
them prior to wrapping and twining (still might have to fix this
  one). Here
are some pics:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Bp1cCFGAnwU/UC0DamiyQDI/AC...

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[RBW] Re: Silver Downtube shifters and 10-speed cassette?

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam


 I think I will ask my LBS if they can get it done for me 7-speed.
 I'll get a new chain to boot.
 Sounds like easier shifting.
 10-speed is pretty tight spacing and I get spontaneous shifts if I am not 
 careful.
 Wider spacing sounds easier.
 I'll go 7-speed. Less cogs the better I think for me.


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[RBW] Re: fat tires for the Hillborne

2012-08-18 Thread lungimsam
Charlie,
That's an awesome pic of your Green Sam with the cat in the back! Beautiful 
colors!

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