Re: [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

2013-03-20 Thread Brian Hanson
Let me know how you manage to actually mount them :)  I had a heck of a
time getting one on an A23 rim, and decided to return them.  I couldn't see
dealing with a puncture in the wild with such a tight tire.  Cypres,
brother.  Cypres...

Brian
Seattle, WA


On Tue, Mar 19, 2013 at 2:41 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just ordered a pair of Challenge Eroica tires from Black Mountain
 Cycles.  It's crazy how many great looking supple fat road tires there are
 now.  These are 700x30 and look like they'd be a great choice for a Ram or
 Roadeo.  Mike Varley does a nice ride report on his Black Mountain Cycles
 blog.  We are in a golden age of awesome tire choices.

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[RBW] Re: Hupe or Fender for saddlebag support (if it rides too low)?

2013-03-20 Thread Nick Payne
For saddlebags of any size, I use the Nitto R-14 rack underneath. I have 
one Carradice Nelson longflap, two Carradice Camper longflap, and one of 
the huge Baggins bags that Rivendell used to sell, and they all fit well 
with that rack. Quite apart from stopping the bag sagging onto the tyre or 
mudguard, it prevents the bag rotating forwards and hitting the back of my 
legs, but and also prevents the bag from swaying, particularly when it's 
only partly full. Preventing bag sway noticeably improves the feel of the 
bike, particularly when you get out of the saddle.

On Friday, 15 March 2013 11:34:36 UTC+11, Michael wrote:

 Was wondering if there is no prob with letting your saddlebag slouch on 
 top of the rear fender. Or is it better to use something else like a Hupe?
 Mine only touches fender a little.


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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-20 Thread marktaintor
This - plus riding your(Jim's) Long Hauloff Trucker both have me 
inspired. And searching my couch for spare change! 
My bike to grow old with is getting more expensive by the day!

On Monday, March 18, 2013 10:43:53 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 PS: this has inspired me. I have a red Rohloff burning a hole in my 
 pocket...

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[RBW] Grand Bois Cypres vs Nifty Swifty

2013-03-20 Thread Brian
HI,

 I built up my Sam H. with the GB's (650B x 32) and love the ride they 
provide but I need to replace them.  I'd get the GB's again but they did 
seem to wear a bit fast and I anticipate more commuting this season so a 
sturdy tire would be preferable unless it will really compromise the 
quality of the ride. It's why I am considering the Nifty S. Anyone have any 
thoughts? Any other 650 x 32-33 besides these and the maxy fastys. Thanks

Brian

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Re: [RBW] Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-20 Thread samh
 I know of only 4 other Riv Rohloff builds: 

You guys should do a tour together.  Incredible bikes. 

On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 2:06:07 PM UTC-6, Pudge wrote:

  Very different bike.  Version 1 was more of a road bike (rough and 
 tumble, to be sure), drop bars, 35mm tires.  This one is much more of an 
 upright tourer style.  Both very comfortable, but in different ways.  This 
 one is definitely heavier, but the weight seems largely to disappear when 
 I’m riding (although I haven’t done any lengthy climbing with it yet).

  

 Hard to say which rides better – I’ve only ridden the new build about 10 
 miles.  But I’ll say this -- I like v. 2.0 a lot because it’s unlike any 
 other bike I have (and unlike almost any bike I’ve seen – I know of only 4 
 other Riv Rohloff builds: Jason Auch, who I think posts here sometimes, 
 built up a beautiful Hunqa-loff a couple of years ago that’s kind of 
 similar, pic here: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/devildotbunny/5072896097/in/photostream/ ; 
 Andy Church in CT has an SS coupled travel Homer with a Rohloff, here: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/andychurch/7302143024/in/photostream/ ; 
 Craig Montgomery has (or had, at any rate) a ’97 All-Rounder with a Rohloff 
 on Jim’s Cyclofiend site, here: 
 http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2005/cc023-craigmontgomery0705.html ; and I 
 know Riv built up a Glorius with a Rohloff at a customer’s request some 
 years ago, pic here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/reneeanddolan/259362085/.  
 The complete known Rivendelloff galaxy (but there are doubtless numerous 
 undiscovered others).

  

 *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *René Sterental
 *Sent:* Tuesday, March 19, 2013 3:16 PM
 *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

  
  
 So... how do you feel the v2 with the Rolhoff compares to the v1 with a 
 standard drivetrain?
  
  
  
 On Tue, Mar 19, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J 
 thomas.a...@skadden.com javascript: wrote:

 It didn't SEEM cheesy.  I just couldn't get it to work properly.  Live and 
 learn.  The Rohloff tensioner IS excellent, no doubt.
  

 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:] On Behalf Of Jim Thill - 
 Hiawatha Cyclery
 Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 11:36 PM
 To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:
   
 Subject: [RBW] Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

 I'll take the excellent Rohloff chain tensioner over some cheesy eccentric 
 BB any day.

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Nick Payne
It's incorrect to say that *any* metal that is cyclicly loaded will fatigue 
and fail eventually. Steel and titanium alloys have a fatigue limit, which 
means that there is an amplitude of stress below which the material will 
not fail no matter how many cycles of stress are applied. Aluminium, OTOH, 
does not have a fatigue limit and will eventually fail at any repeated 
stress. See for example, the diagram plotting stress against number of 
cycles to failure for steel and aluminium at 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:S-N_curves.PNG. However, given proper 
design, the number of cycles to failure becomes extremely high. After all, 
there are still airlines flying DC-9s that are getting on for 40 years old, 
many airfreight 747s are over 30 years old, and the USAF is planning to 
keep B52s in the air until about 2040, by which time they will be getting 
on for 80 years old. And all those have aluminium airframes.

In about 40 years of riding, the only pair of handlebars I've had break 
were a pair where the handlebar bag mount looped over the top of the bars 
each side of the stem and (I discovered after the bars broke) had worn a 
substantial groove in the bar. Outside of bars being damaged like that, I 
only replace bars if they've been crashed and bent. I think the oldest pair 
I have in use are about 30 years old - Cinelli Campione del Mondo.

On Tuesday, 19 March 2013 08:10:09 UTC+11, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
 cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually. 


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[RBW] Re: Which kinda washer for Sam brake bridge fender mount/plastic SKS fender.

2013-03-20 Thread Earl Grey
Actually for direct mounting a metal fender onto a bridge with a bolt that goes 
through the fender you use a leather washer to increase fender life and reduce 
noise, between fender and bridge. Metal washer inside fender. 

Gernot

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Re: [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

2013-03-20 Thread Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
Are you using Velox (read: thick) rim tape? The Challenge-A23 difficulty 
can be tackled by using either Velocity's own Veloplugs or a thin rim tape 
like Ritchey or Rox. The Challenge tires, at least the Parigi-Roubaix, do 
stretch out a bit after use so they do get significantly easier to 
(dis)mount after a couple of hundred miles.


On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 2:08:40 PM UTC+8, stonehog wrote:

 Let me know how you manage to actually mount them :)  I had a heck of a 
 time getting one on an A23 rim, and decided to return them.  I couldn't see 
 dealing with a puncture in the wild with such a tight tire.  Cypres, 
 brother.  Cypres...

 Brian
 Seattle, WA


 On Tue, Mar 19, 2013 at 2:41 PM, William tape...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 I just ordered a pair of Challenge Eroica tires from Black Mountain 
 Cycles.  It's crazy how many great looking supple fat road tires there are 
 now.  These are 700x30 and look like they'd be a great choice for a Ram or 
 Roadeo.  Mike Varley does a nice ride report on his Black Mountain Cycles 
 blog.  We are in a golden age of awesome tire choices.   

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Ron Mc
great photo Philip.  
I put 30 years on a GB Maes bend.  
Jim, as far as the cycle and S-N curve goes, only cycles that are 70% or 
greater of the permanent bending load count.  Everything below that is 
within the endurance limit.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 6:15:07 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:

 So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb guy 
 using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
 sometimes. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we are 
 on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't reef on 
 my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I notice my 
 bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide I weigh 
 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear.  Finally, 
 another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single city limit 
 sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 years 
 sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright 
 and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years out 
 of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that is 
 cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every metal 
 has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears 
 out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is. 
  If you think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your 
 handlebars, then I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want 
 any accidents.



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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Ron Mc
p.s. - misusing science in marketing is known by marketers as the snow job

On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:50:43 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
 accidents.

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Re: [RBW] Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-20 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Tue, 2013-03-19 at 15:38 -0400, David Hays wrote:
 Down the road I was hoping to put Hetres and fenders on it but I'm
 hearing serious reservations from people.


What reservations?

Here are the issues regarding the bike:
http://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/01/27/does-my-bike-take-fenders/

I don't know about the Hilsen.  I do know that some other Riv frames
have had serious issues regarding the chainstay bridge distance being
far too large, making it very hard to achieve a good fender line.

I know that on my Saluki there was insufficient clearance at the chain
stays to fit a 58mm wide (that's the widest size) Honjo, so I had to
trim the fender, as can be seen here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157617915097787/show/

Assuming the bike presents no major problems, the biggest issue is that
mounting Honjos takes patience and cannot be hurried.  



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[RBW] Re: Glorius and Wilbury

2013-03-20 Thread Charlie


 I do have an original Rivendell mixte which I never built.  I purchased 
 both an Atlantis and mixte some years ago and later concluded that I would 
 not be able to raise the handlebars high enough for my very upright age 60+ 
 riding style.  I recently sold the Atlantis and would like to sell the 
 mixte.  It is a 52mm.


The price is $2100 plus shipping.  In recent discussions with Kevin about a 
custom mountain mixte, he did offer me $1800 toward the custom for the 
mixte.  This was a bit more than his last offer when we had a similar 
discussion about I year ago.  (I only mention this because I think 
somewhere there is a post about his last offer and I didn't want anyone to 
think i was just inflating his offer.)  I still may do the custom, but I 
want to experience my recently built Yves Gomez mixte from a size 
perspective before I make that jump.  

Pictures of the mixte here as are pictures of the Yves Gomez (in British 
Racing green).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7338969@N06/7583232160/in/photostream/lightbox/

Contact me if interested.

Charlie in CT

  
  
  


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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres vs Nifty Swifty

2013-03-20 Thread Jan Heine
The Spring issue of *Bicycle Quarterly* summarizes all our tire tests, so 
you can see how the performance of the Grand Bois compares to both the 
Nifty-Swifty, the Maxy-Fasty and dozens of other tires. More information on 
that issue is here:

http://janheine.wordpress.com/

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
http://www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
It was William who introduced the concept of S-N curves, not Jim. I don't think 
he misused science in his explanation. That said, it's somewhat simplistic to 
reduce the complicated fatigue life of bicycles to relationships discovered in 
controlled lab settings.

In the real world, bike parts do break, even if they're made of steel. This is 
observed reality at least once a week at my job. If you dig into the science of 
why things break, you can certainly learn a lot of terminology and study 
endless log-scale graphs. You can get a PhD in the subject, which I tried once. 
Even the smartest guy or gal in the room can only begin to guess what sorts of 
stresses a handlebar will endure (or has endured), what scenarios will lead to 
eventual failure, or how long that will take. As somebody pointed out, even a 
good bar can fail prematurely if clamped improperly in the stem. What of faulty 
heat treating or surface defects or undetectable debts and dings that become 
stress risers? I've only just scratched the surface of muddying the waters of 
science and its predictions...

Nitto makes their best guess, erring on the side of safety, and says 5 years of 
use. Obviously many bars last much longer, and a few don't even make it to 5 
years. Personally, I'm not concerned about this arbitrary number. If you are 
concerned, I say buy a new bar. It's worth $100 or whatever for peace of mind.

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[RBW] Grand Bois Cypres vs Nifty Swifty

2013-03-20 Thread Earl Grey
Get Hetres. They will spoil you for all other tires. They will actually improve 
ride quality, won't increase rolling resistance noticeably (or may even lower 
it on rough roads), will last much longer (3-4000miles?) and will be much more 
flat resistant simply because they are wider and are thus run at lower 
pressure. 

Gernot (who wishes his 56cm Sam had 650b wheels so he could run Hetres, but who 
has them on another bike)

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Re: [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

2013-03-20 Thread Montclair BobbyB
*Sometimes I will buy tires that won't fit on any of my bikes, and then 
acquire a bike to fit the tires..
*
Tragic, but hysterical (sorry Bill)... although I admit I've lusted after a 
set of Hetre reds with the notion that I'll figure out the 'bike thing' 
later...

On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 5:48:29 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 Hello.
 My name is Bill, and I'm a tire-o-holic

 Sometimes I will skip coffee for a while to save up for tires
 Sometimes I will buy tires that won't fit on any of my bikes, and then 
 acquire a bike to fit the tires
 I currently have in my possession a total of 59 650B tires
 I'm down on 700c, and now have a mere 16 tires to share between two bikes

 On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 2:42:51 PM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  Because you’re a little short on tires in inventory, Bill?

  

 *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com] 
 *On Behalf Of *William
 *Sent:* Tuesday, March 19, 2013 5:42 PM
 *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

  

 I just ordered a pair of Challenge Eroica tires from Black Mountain 
 Cycles.  It's crazy how many great looking supple fat road tires there are 
 now.  These are 700x30 and look like they'd be a great choice for a Ram or 
 Roadeo.  Mike Varley does a nice ride report on his Black Mountain Cycles 
 blog.  We are in a golden age of awesome tire choices.   

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread grant
I thought-think-was taught that steel has a load limit below which it can 
withstand a theoretically infinite number of cycles (flexes), but that 
aluminum has no such thing. 
Permanent bending load limit is the Yield strength. Yield strength is the 
force required to bend a material to the point where it doesn't snap back 
all straight again. Spring steel (used in springs) has a high yield 
strength; paperclip steel (used in ) is the opposite.

On this topic, vaguely: I was at a materials testing facility two days ago, 
and remember the hooplah I set off when I suggested that maybe modulus 
varies with UTS (sorry for the jargon, but I'm too tired to explain). I got 
so much correction mail that I was forced into a slightly insincere 
recantation. Well...the head guy at this place was saying that a crank arm 
made of X would be stiffer than one of idental design made of Y, and so I 
said politely, Oh really? and he said of course, and I said what about 
modulus's independence of UTS? and he said no way, we've done this test a 
zillion times, and then showed me a tech insider's website that listed diff 
moduli for two alum alloys of diff strengths.

I'm just here to cause trouble. I won't respond to an discussions on this, 
on account of I've beenthere done that...and I will always play my two 
year diploma, what kind of fool listens to me? card, if pressed.

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:08:03 PM UTC+8, Ron Mc wrote:

 great photo Philip.  
 I put 30 years on a GB Maes bend.  
 Jim, as far as the cycle and S-N curve goes, only cycles that are 70% or 
 greater of the permanent bending load count.  Everything below that is 
 within the endurance limit.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 6:15:07 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:

 So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb 
 guy using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
 sometimes. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we are 
 on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't reef on 
 my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I notice my 
 bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide I weigh 
 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear.  Finally, 
 another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single city limit 
 sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 years 
 sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright 
 and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years 
 out 
 of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that 
 is cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every 
 metal has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears 
 out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  
 If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially 
 never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it 
 and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be 
 conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You 
 don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is. 
  If you think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your 
 handlebars, then I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 

Re: [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

2013-03-20 Thread Liesl
Hello.
My name is Liesl, and I'm a bag-o-holic

Sometimes I will skip tires for a while to save up for bags
Sometimes I will buy bags that don't match on any of my bags, and then 
acquire a rack, more bags, a hat, and paint my bike so that everything 
matches
I currently have in my possession a total of  4 saddle bags, 4 panniers, 4 
handlebar bags, and 2 l'il loafers
I'm down on tweeds, and have only 1 tweed l'il loafer to share between two 
bikes.
 

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread William
as far as the cycle and S-N curve goes, only cycles that are 70% or 
greater of the permanent bending load count.  Everything below that is 
within the endurance limit.

Steel has an endurance limit.  Moderately stressed steel, cycled below the 
endurance limit, lasts forever (if you'll pardon the term).  That's why I 
said steel is such incredible stuff.  It really is incredible.  

We were talking about aluminum.  Aluminum has no endurance limit.  The 
lower the cycling stress, the longer it lasts, but there is no lower limit 
below which the stress cycles don't count.  I'm not trying to snow 
anybody and I am not an employee of the Nitto marketing department.  

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 5:08:03 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 great photo Philip.  
 I put 30 years on a GB Maes bend.  
 Jim, as far as the cycle and S-N curve goes, only cycles that are 70% or 
 greater of the permanent bending load count.  Everything below that is 
 within the endurance limit.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 6:15:07 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:

 So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb 
 guy using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
 sometimes. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we are 
 on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't reef on 
 my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I notice my 
 bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide I weigh 
 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear.  Finally, 
 another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single city limit 
 sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 years 
 sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides upright 
 and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 years 
 out 
 of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that 
 is cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every 
 metal has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears 
 out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  
 If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially 
 never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it 
 and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be 
 conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You 
 don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know for sure what the history is. 
  If you think you would feel a lot more comfortable replacing your 
 handlebars, then I'd say do it.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 12:50:43 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want 
 any accidents.



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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-20 Thread Liesl
On Monday, March 18, 2013 8:10:01 PM UTC-5, Ryan wrote:

 Sorry...speechless. That looks like a Swiss Army bike for sure. I like the 
 black. You could travel the world on thatneat components



Here's a Swiss Army bike for sure... 

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_DHDYhgscOc/UUnl7FcoD4I/ABU/hSRzuBpwxOA/s1600/PC260173.JPG


 

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Re: [RBW] Grand Bois Cypres vs Nifty Swifty

2013-03-20 Thread Dan McNamara
The Hetres are great tires.

 I ended up using the Soma B-Sides on my wife's Betty Foy with great
sucess. I needed something that would fit under longboard fenders. As the
regular version appears out of stock everywhere the Hypertex version that
Riv sells could be an option. Would Schwalbe Marathons just be too sluggish
for you? If I needed a super dependable commute tire I would head in that
direction.

Dan

- Marin


On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 8:18 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

 Get Hetres. They will spoil you for all other tires. They will actually
 improve ride quality, won't increase rolling resistance noticeably (or may
 even lower it on rough roads), will last much longer (3-4000miles?) and
 will be much more flat resistant simply because they are wider and are thus
 run at lower pressure.

 Gernot (who wishes his 56cm Sam had 650b wheels so he could run Hetres,
 but who has them on another bike)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres vs Nifty Swifty

2013-03-20 Thread René Sterental
If the Hetres won't fit, try the Lierres.

René

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013, Dan McNamara wrote:

 The Hetres are great tires.

  I ended up using the Soma B-Sides on my wife's Betty Foy with great
 sucess. I needed something that would fit under longboard fenders. As the
 regular version appears out of stock everywhere the Hypertex version that
 Riv sells could be an option. Would Schwalbe Marathons just be too sluggish
 for you? If I needed a super dependable commute tire I would head in that
 direction.

 Dan

 - Marin


 On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 8:18 AM, Earl Grey 
 earlg...@gmail.comjavascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 'earlg...@gmail.com');
  wrote:

 Get Hetres. They will spoil you for all other tires. They will actually
 improve ride quality, won't increase rolling resistance noticeably (or may
 even lower it on rough roads), will last much longer (3-4000miles?) and
 will be much more flat resistant simply because they are wider and are thus
 run at lower pressure.

 Gernot (who wishes his 56cm Sam had 650b wheels so he could run Hetres,
 but who has them on another bike)

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Ron Mc
Sorry Grant, William, Jim - I stand corrected - aluminum has no endurance 
limit.  
Monolithic is the term.  

On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:50:43 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this 
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if 
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar 
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any 
 accidents.

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Re: [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

2013-03-20 Thread René Sterental
Ha ha ha ha!!! And to think that's wife thinks  I'm crazy when it comes to
my bikes, tires, bags, handlebars. saddles...

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013, Liesl wrote:

 Hello.
 My name is Liesl, and I'm a bag-o-holic

 Sometimes I will skip tires for a while to save up for bags
 Sometimes I will buy bags that don't match on any of my bags, and then
 acquire a rack, more bags, a hat, and paint my bike so that everything
 matches
 I currently have in my possession a total of  4 saddle bags, 4 panniers, 4
 handlebar bags, and 2 l'il loafers
 I'm down on tweeds, and have only 1 tweed l'il loafer to share between two
 bikes.


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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I have an idea! Let's talk about carbon fiber bars! Seriously, what about
them?

On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:49 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 Sorry Grant, William, Jim - I stand corrected - aluminum has no endurance
 limit.
 Monolithic is the term.

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:50:43 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

 In a cool interview with Nitto exec Mr. Yoshikawa, Grant asks this
 question. Nitto exec leaves it up to consumer. So I was wondering if
 anything to be concerned about. Anyone know anything about aluminum bar
 life?
 Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have? Don't want any
 accidents.

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[RBW] Bikes of the Month (Bike of the Months?)

2013-03-20 Thread William
I just noticed that both BOMs (BsOM?) are marked SOLD.  I'm happy to see 
that.  On one hand it removes the temptation for me to buy that 54cm Hunqa, 
but on the other hand it's cool to see that generating a little cash flow 
for Riv.  Congrats to the new owners of those two great looking bikes!

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Re: [RBW] Bikes of the Month (Bike of the Months?)

2013-03-20 Thread Peter Morgano
I just saw that too, awesome to know two lucky people got some tricked out
rides. Back in the day I had a 54cm Hunq I was about to buy at Harris
Cyclery but it just looked so small and I was afraid it would be all
seatpost and handlebars. Should have just bought it at the bargain price of
$1,500 and put it in the basement, haha.

On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 2:14 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just noticed that both BOMs (BsOM?) are marked SOLD.  I'm happy to see
 that.  On one hand it removes the temptation for me to buy that 54cm Hunqa,
 but on the other hand it's cool to see that generating a little cash flow
 for Riv.  Congrats to the new owners of those two great looking bikes!

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Re: [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

2013-03-20 Thread William
Brian

Thanks for the heads up/warning.  I will let you know how easy or hard it 
is to mount these tires.  

On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 11:08:40 PM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:

 Let me know how you manage to actually mount them :)  I had a heck of a 
 time getting one on an A23 rim, and decided to return them.  I couldn't see 
 dealing with a puncture in the wild with such a tight tire.  Cypres, 
 brother.  Cypres...

 Brian
 Seattle, WA


 On Tue, Mar 19, 2013 at 2:41 PM, William tape...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 I just ordered a pair of Challenge Eroica tires from Black Mountain 
 Cycles.  It's crazy how many great looking supple fat road tires there are 
 now.  These are 700x30 and look like they'd be a great choice for a Ram or 
 Roadeo.  Mike Varley does a nice ride report on his Black Mountain Cycles 
 blog.  We are in a golden age of awesome tire choices.   

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Re: [RBW] Re: Brakes question

2013-03-20 Thread William
Rene

Also look to the straddle cable itself on the Paul in front.  Make sure 
that it's straightened out.  Make sure that none of your lever travel is 
used up simply pulling the arc shape out of the straddle cable.  Pauls, in 
my experience, are shipped with a pretty stiff straddle cable, and you have 
to make a real effort to give it a little bend at the two edges of the 
carrier, and you have to give it a little bend with your thumb at the 
anchor as well.  That might result in giving you more slack than you 
thought you had, will result in the pads being farther from the rims, and 
will allow you to pull up some slack at the barrel adjuster.  


On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 4:26:18 PM UTC-7, René wrote:

 I'll try that, but the pads are already quite close to the rims. On the 
 flats, they start biting quite early on the travel of the lever. Also, 
 these levers are designed for cantilever and sidepull brakes, so it's 
 strange that they wouldn't work.
  
 The other thing I'm going to try, is to raise the yoke higher on the front 
 Racer brake to see if it reduces the mechanical advantage and increases the 
 braking power. There's nothing I can do on the rear, but it's the front one 
 the one that stops you on a downhill, so I'll start there.
  
 René


 On Tue, Mar 19, 2013 at 4:11 PM, Joe Bernard joer...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 You might want to try mounting the pads closer to the rims as they would 
 be on a tt/tri-bike, which is primarily what these levers were designed 
 for. If you compare the arc of mtb and road levers, there is noticeably 
 more air between the lever and bar, giving you more travel before bottoming 
 out. I think you're running out of lever before the brakes are done braking.
  
 Joe Baernard
 Vallejo, CA.

 On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 3:56:35 PM UTC-7, René wrote:

 On Sunday I took a nice 20 mile bike ride on the Los Gatos Creek Trail 
 on my Betty. At the end of the outbound leg, there are two steep climbs, 
 one on dirt (avg. 16%) and one on pavement that is longer (avg. 13%). 
  
 The Betty is equiped with Tektro 4.1 reverse brake levers, a front Paul 
 Racer brake and a rear Silver brake, both with salmon pads.
  
 On the way down, I realized I couldn't lock the wheels or come to a 
 complete stop. The bike just kept rolling, even though I was pressing the 
 levers as far as they'd go to the bars. On flats, you need much less 
 pressure to come to a stop. Both front and rear brakes felt the same. 
 Luckily, I wasn't forced to come to a full stop or I would have crashed.
  
 What gives? This is the first time this happens to me. Is it something 
 on the setup I'd need to change? 
  
 Fully perplexed,
  
 René

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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Leslie
I find all of this interesting, but am coming at it from a different 
direction;  as a geologist, I (used to) look at a lot of structural 
deformation on rock (instead of steel), looking at elastic deformation 
versus plastic deformation, stress versus strain, Mohr's circles, Young's 
modulus, etc. etc..;  looking at rock, it's different than steel, but, at 
the same time, it's applying the same concepts...

Carry on, I'm enjoying this from the sidelines




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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread William
Leslie

Was Popov your undergrad text on mechanics of materials?  

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 11:58:19 AM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:

 I find all of this interesting, but am coming at it from a different 
 direction;  as a geologist, I (used to) look at a lot of structural 
 deformation on rock (instead of steel), looking at elastic deformation 
 versus plastic deformation, stress versus strain, Mohr's circles, Young's 
 modulus, etc. etc..;  looking at rock, it's different than steel, but, at 
 the same time, it's applying the same concepts...

 Carry on, I'm enjoying this from the sidelines






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[RBW] Re: Brakes question

2013-03-20 Thread René Sterental
Excellent idea! I've noticed the same.

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013, William wrote:

 Rene

 Also look to the straddle cable itself on the Paul in front.  Make sure
 that it's straightened out.  Make sure that none of your lever travel is
 used up simply pulling the arc shape out of the straddle cable.  Pauls, in
 my experience, are shipped with a pretty stiff straddle cable, and you have
 to make a real effort to give it a little bend at the two edges of the
 carrier, and you have to give it a little bend with your thumb at the
 anchor as well.  That might result in giving you more slack than you
 thought you had, will result in the pads being farther from the rims, and
 will allow you to pull up some slack at the barrel adjuster.


 On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 4:26:18 PM UTC-7, René wrote:

 I'll try that, but the pads are already quite close to the rims. On the
 flats, they start biting quite early on the travel of the lever. Also,
 these levers are designed for cantilever and sidepull brakes, so it's
 strange that they wouldn't work.

 The other thing I'm going to try, is to raise the yoke higher on the
 front Racer brake to see if it reduces the mechanical advantage and
 increases the braking power. There's nothing I can do on the rear, but it's
 the front one the one that stops you on a downhill, so I'll start there.

 René


 On Tue, Mar 19, 2013 at 4:11 PM, Joe Bernard joer...@gmail.com wrote:

 You might want to try mounting the pads closer to the rims as they would
 be on a tt/tri-bike, which is primarily what these levers were designed
 for. If you compare the arc of mtb and road levers, there is noticeably
 more air between the lever and bar, giving you more travel before bottoming
 out. I think you're running out of lever before the brakes are done braking.

 Joe Baernard
 Vallejo, CA.

 On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 3:56:35 PM UTC-7, René wrote:

 On Sunday I took a nice 20 mile bike ride on the Los Gatos Creek Trail
 on my Betty. At the end of the outbound leg, there are two steep climbs,
 one on dirt (avg. 16%) and one on pavement that is longer (avg. 13%).

 The Betty is equiped with Tektro 4.1 reverse brake levers, a front Paul
 Racer brake and a rear Silver brake, both with salmon pads.

 On the way down, I realized I couldn't lock the wheels or come to a
 complete stop. The bike just kept rolling, even though I was pressing the
 levers as far as they'd go to the bars. On flats, you need much less
 pressure to come to a stop. Both front and rear brakes felt the same.
 Luckily, I wasn't forced to come to a full stop or I would have crashed.

 What gives? This is the first time this happens to me. Is it something
 on the setup I'd need to change?

 Fully perplexed,

 René

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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Joe Bernard
I'm starting to understand the thinking behind all that thick, heavy steel 
on 3-speed Raleighs...
 
Joe Um, carbon bar? No thanks Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 12:04:11 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Leslie

 Was Popov your undergrad text on mechanics of materials?  

 On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 11:58:19 AM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:

 I find all of this interesting, but am coming at it from a different 
 direction;  as a geologist, I (used to) look at a lot of structural 
 deformation on rock (instead of steel), looking at elastic deformation 
 versus plastic deformation, stress versus strain, Mohr's circles, Young's 
 modulus, etc. etc..;  looking at rock, it's different than steel, but, at 
 the same time, it's applying the same concepts...

 Carry on, I'm enjoying this from the sidelines






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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres vs Nifty Swifty

2013-03-20 Thread Lynne Fitz
I have ridden Nifty Swifties, Michelin Axial Raid, Michelin Megamium, 
Hutchinson 650B Confriere, Grand Bois Cypres, and Soma Xpress.
(yes, I put serious miles on my tires.  I wore them all out!)
Some wear out faster than others.
My experience, please take it with a grain of salt
Nifty Swifty - sturdy tires.  Wear well.  Tan sidewall.  I think I still 
have one in the garage I would use in a pinch
Michelin Axial Raid - sturdy tires, wear well, ride well. Folding.  I 
think. Unfortunately, made of unobtanium
Michelin Megamium - like the Raid, but all black.  Folding. Tightest bead 
ever, G-d help you if you get a flat in the cold and rain.  But sturdy.
Hutchinson - very sturdy tire; good riding, got over 4000 miles on them. 
 Gray sidewall. Folding. Still keep one around as a spare. Very light.
Grand Bois Cypres - nice to ride on. Almost as light as the Hutchinson. 
 Folding.  I had more flats with them than any other tire in my life. 
 Retired after 2000 miles
Soma Xpress - like riding on nice pillows.  Do not appear to slow me down. 
 Folding. Tan sidewall.  Not enough miles to assess durability, but they 
look pretty sturdy.

Cheers,
Lynne F

On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 9:38:20 AM UTC-7, Brian wrote:

 HI,

  I built up my Sam H. with the GB's (650B x 32) and love the ride they 
 provide but I need to replace them.  I'd get the GB's again but they did 
 seem to wear a bit fast and I anticipate more commuting this season so a 
 sturdy tire would be preferable unless it will really compromise the 
 quality of the ride. It's why I am considering the Nifty S. Anyone have any 
 thoughts? Any other 650 x 32-33 besides these and the maxy fastys. Thanks

 Brian


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[RBW] Re: FS 68cm Quickbeam

2013-03-20 Thread Jim
Nice bike, shows a lot of thought. What did you think of the mustache bars? 
Jim D   Massachusetts

On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 3:00:58 PM UTC-4, Kelly wrote:

 S... if no one bites I get to keep it :)

 On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 10:16:42 AM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:

 Wow, what a great deal for such a rare TALL frame.

 - Andrew, Berkeley



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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Leslie


On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 3:04:11 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 Leslie

 Was Popov your undergrad text on mechanics of materials?  



No;   being in geology, I had Dana's for Mineralogy (well, Klein/Hurlbut 
after Dana's), Blatt for Petrology, Davis for Structural, then later 
Hatcher for Structural further... also a lot from Telford in Applied 
Geophysics, too;   but I didn't have 'material' science (as far as metals 
testing, etc., as the engineering side would have...)BS in 
stright-laced field geology, MS is in engineering geology, but dealt more 
with slope stability, engineering properties of geologic materials (ASTM 
testing, soils, etc.), hydrogeology, etc.

If I was over on the engineering side of campus, probably would have;  but 
not on my side

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Re: [RBW] Bikes of the Month (Bike of the Months?)

2013-03-20 Thread Cyclofiend
If I understood the announcement, the Bike-O-The-Month is only for  
bikes which were sold.  The folks at RBW who built them up suggest  
them for photos before they are boxed and/or delivered, and they then  
pick one each month as a unique or exemplary build.  Since there's  
such a variance in the each bicycle is actually spec'd, I think one of  
the benefits is that it get people thinking about the variety of ways  
to rig theirs up.


Yeah - I'm enjoying it!

- J


On Mar 20, 2013, at 11:14 AM, William wrote:

I just noticed that both BOMs (BsOM?) are marked SOLD.  I'm happy to  
see that.  On one hand it removes the temptation for me to buy that  
54cm Hunqa, but on the other hand it's cool to see that generating a  
little cash flow for Riv.  Congrats to the new owners of those two  
great looking bikes!




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[RBW] Re: FS 68cm Quickbeam

2013-03-20 Thread Kelly
Jim,

I like them and wouldn't / won't  (since it doesn't appear it's going to 
sell) change them out.I like them a bit higher than other bars I have. 
 I am looking for a Mustache bar like these that come back farther for a 
more upright position as well then I could lower them back down again.   Ut 
OH I'm attempting thought and it's failing me... with the bars up they are 
comfortable and handle all riding positions.. I just don't like seeing that 
much stem. :)   So I'll take a bit of discomfort rather than put them up 
that far?   Up in the hooks they are perfect. :)  

Kelly

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 3:07:38 PM UTC-5, Jim wrote:

 Nice bike, shows a lot of thought. What did you think of the mustache 
 bars? Jim D   Massachusetts

 On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 3:00:58 PM UTC-4, Kelly wrote:

 S... if no one bites I get to keep it :)

 On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 10:16:42 AM UTC-5, BSWP wrote:

 Wow, what a great deal for such a rare TALL frame.

 - Andrew, Berkeley



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Re: [RBW] Bikes of the Month (Bike of the Months?)

2013-03-20 Thread Joe Bernard
*Bike Of the Month - Well that's the idea at least. Monthly or so one 
employee whips up a dreamy build with some less-than-usual stuff on it and 
it becomes a demonstrator bike in the showroom (unridden) and a web special.
*
 
I saw both these listings before they were sold.

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 3:34:14 PM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 If I understood the announcement, the Bike-O-The-Month is only for   
 bikes which were sold.  The folks at RBW who built them up suggest   
 them for photos before they are boxed and/or delivered, and they then   
 pick one each month as a unique or exemplary build.  Since there's   
 such a variance in the each bicycle is actually spec'd, I think one of   
 the benefits is that it get people thinking about the variety of ways   
 to rig theirs up. 

 Yeah - I'm enjoying it! 

 - J 


 On Mar 20, 2013, at 11:14 AM, William wrote: 

  I just noticed that both BOMs (BsOM?) are marked SOLD.  I'm happy to   
  see that.  On one hand it removes the temptation for me to buy that   
  54cm Hunqa, but on the other hand it's cool to see that generating a   
  little cash flow for Riv.  Congrats to the new owners of those two   
  great looking bikes! 
  



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[RBW] Bullmoose on a Homer Hilsen? Opinions please!

2013-03-20 Thread Eric
Curious about the bunch's opinion/recommendations about Bullmoose bars on a 
Homer Hilsen.
 
I was thinking about some Albatross bars in an alternative to Noodle bars 
but Bullmoose look pretty cool. I'm just not sure about functionality, ect.
 
I would definately throw Bullmoose bars on a Hunqapillar but I haven't had 
the opportunity to score one yet. 
 
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
I also went to school for geology. I took mineral physics in grad school, 
which was basically stress/strain/fatigue on the molecular level. I've never 
used it in any professional capacity, but when it comes to discussing handlebar 
failures, I can sling BS with the best of them.

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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-20 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
We assembled a Swiss army bike a few years ago. The owner got drunk and went on 
eBay. The result was that a rattling box of rusty lumps of metal arrived on his 
doorstep a week later. It was an interesting relic, and black, and 650B (though 
modern 650B tires didn't work). Otherwise it didn't have much in common with 
the fine specimen we're discussing here.

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[RBW] FS: Berthoud gray banana saddlebag like new

2013-03-20 Thread Michael S
I have a very lightly (less than a week while I was on a trip) used gray 
Berthoud banana saddlebag with tan leather trim.  It's the conventional 
attaching one (not Klick Fix) with an elastic cord to close the flap 
instead of a buckle.
 
It's this one:  
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/images/products/Packs/bertsaddleelgr.jpg (light 
not included)
 
These sell for $115 new, asking *$85 shipped, obo.*
** 
Thanks,
Michael Scholten
Grand Rapids, MI

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose on a Homer Hilsen? Opinions please!

2013-03-20 Thread Joe Bernard
I have one, and have used it on a Bstone mtb and Bstone road bike. I can't 
see any reason why you would use them on a Hunqapillar, but not a Hilsen. 
If you like sweptback-type bars, and dig the look (I do), I say go for it.
 
Joe Is that a mountain or road bike? Yes. Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 6:42:36 PM UTC-7, Eric wrote:

 Curious about the bunch's opinion/recommendations about Bullmoose bars on 
 a Homer Hilsen.
  
 I was thinking about some Albatross bars in an alternative to Noodle bars 
 but Bullmoose look pretty cool. I'm just not sure about functionality, ect.
  
 I would definately throw Bullmoose bars on a Hunqapillar but I haven't had 
 the opportunity to score one yet. 
  
  


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[RBW] Looking for 650b wheelset and tires?

2013-03-20 Thread Ely Rodriguez
Before I purchase a new set, anyone have something for sale?
My wife rides her RB-1 every day and I'd like to step up to a 650b dynamo 
front and 130 spaced rear. 
I'm open to a straight trade for a 700c wheelset as well. I'll put a post 
on the 650b site as well for good luck.
Thanks!
-Ely

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[RBW] Re: Bombadil v. 2.0 and new Fatty Rumpkins

2013-03-20 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Dig the frame bag... NICE!!!

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 12:38:52 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 8:10:01 PM UTC-5, Ryan wrote:

 Sorry...speechless. That looks like a Swiss Army bike for sure. I like 
 the black. You could travel the world on thatneat components



 Here's a Swiss Army bike for sure... 


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_DHDYhgscOc/UUnl7FcoD4I/ABU/hSRzuBpwxOA/s1600/PC260173.JPG


  


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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread ted
... trouble, with a capital T and that rhymes with P and that ...
As is frequently the case in the physical sciences, if you measure 
accurately enough commonly stated generalities turn out not to be exactly 
correct. Published values for the stiffness of different types of steel are 
different. Same thing for aluminum.
But those differences are not that big, and the people developing the 
materials are usually focused on other properties that vary more 
dramatically. Apply something like the logic Grant uses to argue a few 
ounces of frame weight are meaningless, and you are likely to conclude that 
the differences in the stiffness of various steels used to make bikes (or 
aluminums used to make components) is insignificant.

Now fatigue life of components, that makes bulk modulus and yield strength 
of a material seem trivially simple by comparison.

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:39:45 AM UTC-7, grant wrote:

 I thought-think-was taught that steel has a load limit below which it can 
 withstand a theoretically infinite number of cycles (flexes), but that 
 aluminum has no such thing. 
 Permanent bending load limit is the Yield strength. Yield strength is the 
 force required to bend a material to the point where it doesn't snap back 
 all straight again. Spring steel (used in springs) has a high yield 
 strength; paperclip steel (used in ) is the opposite.

 On this topic, vaguely: I was at a materials testing facility two days 
 ago, and remember the hooplah I set off when I suggested that maybe modulus 
 varies with UTS (sorry for the jargon, but I'm too tired to explain). I got 
 so much correction mail that I was forced into a slightly insincere 
 recantation. Well...the head guy at this place was saying that a crank arm 
 made of X would be stiffer than one of idental design made of Y, and so I 
 said politely, Oh really? and he said of course, and I said what about 
 modulus's independence of UTS? and he said no way, we've done this test a 
 zillion times, and then showed me a tech insider's website that listed diff 
 moduli for two alum alloys of diff strengths.

 I'm just here to cause trouble. I won't respond to an discussions on this, 
 on account of I've beenthere done that...and I will always play my two 
 year diploma, what kind of fool listens to me? card, if pressed.

 On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:08:03 PM UTC+8, Ron Mc wrote:

 great photo Philip.  
 I put 30 years on a GB Maes bend.  
 Jim, as far as the cycle and S-N curve goes, only cycles that are 70% 
 or greater of the permanent bending load count.  Everything below that is 
 within the endurance limit.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 6:15:07 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:

 So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb 
 guy using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
 sometimes. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we 
 are on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't 
 reef on my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I 
 notice my bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide 
 I 
 weigh 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear. 
  Finally, another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single 
 city limit sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 
 years sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides 
 upright and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 
 years out of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that 
 is cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every 
 metal has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears 
 out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  
 If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially 
 never 
 fatigues.  Incredible 

[RBW] are there any true 700x40 plush, high tpi tires?

2013-03-20 Thread Michael Williams
Just wondering if anyone has come across any 700x40 tires that are higher 
tpi( 120).   Im kind of imagining a Jack Brown Green but in 40mm size.   
But Im prolly just be dreaming.  I know that Schwalbe makes a bunch of 
tires in that size range,  and I like those tires,   but they've always 
felt a bit sluggish to me.   thanks in advance.  -Mike

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[RBW] Re: are there any true 700x40 plush, high tpi tires?

2013-03-20 Thread dougP
Mike:

I've used Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (foldable) on my Atlantis for several 
years, first in 35 and lately in 40 mm.  At 50-60 psi, the ride is quite 
nice.  Plush is tough to define, and I've never ridden the Jack Browns, so 
can't offer a comparison.  I rarely get flats.  In 40 mm, rears last over 
7,000 miles and the one currently on the front just ticked over 11,000 
miles.  While it has some life left, it will be replaced before the next 
big tour.  While they are a bit spendy, I think the cost per mile and lack 
of flats make them worthwhile.  

dougP

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 9:32:52 PM UTC-7, Michael Williams wrote:

 Just wondering if anyone has come across any 700x40 tires that are higher 
 tpi( 120).   Im kind of imagining a Jack Brown Green but in 40mm size.   
 But Im prolly just be dreaming.  I know that Schwalbe makes a bunch of 
 tires in that size range,  and I like those tires,   but they've always 
 felt a bit sluggish to me.   thanks in advance.  -Mike

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[RBW] Re: RivReader asks if aluminum bars should be replaced after 5 years?

2013-03-20 Thread Joe Bernard
Guy goes into a bar: Maybe modulus varies with UTS, amirite, people!?

On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:39:45 AM UTC-7, grant wrote:

 I thought-think-was taught that steel has a load limit below which it can 
 withstand a theoretically infinite number of cycles (flexes), but that 
 aluminum has no such thing. 
 Permanent bending load limit is the Yield strength. Yield strength is the 
 force required to bend a material to the point where it doesn't snap back 
 all straight again. Spring steel (used in springs) has a high yield 
 strength; paperclip steel (used in ) is the opposite.

 On this topic, vaguely: I was at a materials testing facility two days 
 ago, and remember the hooplah I set off when I suggested that maybe modulus 
 varies with UTS (sorry for the jargon, but I'm too tired to explain). I got 
 so much correction mail that I was forced into a slightly insincere 
 recantation. Well...the head guy at this place was saying that a crank arm 
 made of X would be stiffer than one of idental design made of Y, and so I 
 said politely, Oh really? and he said of course, and I said what about 
 modulus's independence of UTS? and he said no way, we've done this test a 
 zillion times, and then showed me a tech insider's website that listed diff 
 moduli for two alum alloys of diff strengths.

 I'm just here to cause trouble. I won't respond to an discussions on this, 
 on account of I've beenthere done that...and I will always play my two 
 year diploma, what kind of fool listens to me? card, if pressed.

 On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 8:08:03 PM UTC+8, Ron Mc wrote:

 great photo Philip.  
 I put 30 years on a GB Maes bend.  
 Jim, as far as the cycle and S-N curve goes, only cycles that are 70% 
 or greater of the permanent bending load count.  Everything below that is 
 within the endurance limit.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 6:15:07 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:

 So aluminum bars sag before breaking? I only ask, because I'm a 250 lb 
 guy using 25 year old WTB offroad drops on a fixed gear bike... offroad 
 sometimes. 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/8547042814/

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:49:21 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Jim

 I think that's what I said.  The cycle life is determined by how it's 
 loaded, and is captured on an S-N curve.  You are correct that a tiny load 
 is at the ultra-long life end of the S-N curve.  If the S-N curve tells us 
 that the cycle life is 50million cycles, and if you do 100,000 cycles per 
 year, then Bob's your uncle, it's 500 years of life.  

 For all us (relatively) normal people, we have no clue what cycle we 
 are on.  So we are left with judgement.  Like I weigh 170, and I don't 
 reef on my bars too hard, so I think I'll worry after 20 years or when I 
 notice my bars sagging, whichever comes first.  Someone else may decide 
 I 
 weigh 110, and it's a path bike.  I'll never replace bars out of fear. 
  Finally, another person might say I weigh 240 and sprint to every single 
 city limit sign, and climb out of the saddle on my fixie on every hill.  5 
 years sounds like a good plan

 The thing that shocks me is how often I see people using bars that are 
 visibly sagging.  The tops of the handlebars drooping downward, and the 
 hooks no longer parallel.  That's scary.  

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:21:42 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 The number of years is irrelevant. Some skinny person who rides 
 upright and gingerly on smooth roads 5 miles per week is going to get 500 
 years out of the bar. 

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 4:10:09 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 You pose two questions:

 1.  Anyone know anything about aluminum bar life?

 I know a little bit about fatigue life of materials.  Any metal that 
 is cyclicly loaded will fatigue and fail eventually.  Just about every 
 metal has a similar look to it on an S-N curve (Wikipedia that for an 
 explanation).  The take home is that almost everything eventually wears 
 out 
 and fails.  It's just a matter of when.  Steel is a notable exception.  
 If 
 steel is cyclicly loaded at a low enough Stress, then it essentially 
 never 
 fatigues.  Incredible stuff.  Anyway, Aluminum does fatigue and 
 fail...eventually.  When?  It depends on how much you are stressing it 
 and 
 how many cycles you put on it daily.  

 2.  Do I need to throw away the old used set of bars I have?

 Nitto is going to say what they say because they generate these S-N 
 curves and test the heck out of their products.  They do see parts fail 
 after lots of cycles, and what they recommend is going to be 
 conservative. 
  When Nitto says 5 years, I think 20.  I do not think 50 years.  You 
 don't 
 know when your bars are going to fail unless you know REALLY accurately 
 what the loading history of your bars is.  In other words, you have no 
 idea.  Anybody who decides to buy and ride used equipment assumes some 
 additional risk because you just don't know