[RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Michael
Here's one of the test articles.
You would have to purchase the back issue to see all the results I guess.
Don't know if they tested the Col de la vie after all, but they mention the 
Swifty tire here as being 20% slower than the fastest tire.
Of course, that only matters if you race, or are concerned about ease of 
turning the wheels.
The upside is that Swiftys are cushy and stable and have puncture protected 
sidewalls and tread and have one of the coolest looking treads around.
http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/06/13/bicycle-quarterly-performance-of-tires/

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Re: [RBW] 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Bruce Herbitter
650B is in the 26 family. 26 x 1 3/8 size tubes work well.  Also 27.5
MTB. An example here:

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/kenda-standard-weight-650b-275-inch-tube


On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 8:28 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:

 My first 650B bike is on the way, and I'm getting everything ready for its
 arrival (saddle, bar tape, bags, etc,). The only stumbling block so far has
 been innertubes. Even the best-stocked bike shop in town (we have seven
 here in Davis) doesn't carry tubes specifically for 650B.

 So ... If 650B tubes aren't available, what flavor of 26 or 700 should I
 get? Is there a brand/size that works better? I'll be riding tires
 somewhere around 38 in width.

 Thanks in advance!

 –Eric N
 Sent from my iPhone 5S

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[RBW] Re: Bridgestone motorcycle

2013-12-20 Thread Joe Bernard
Those were built by Bridgestone in the late '60s. They were kinda sorta 
popular for a while, but Bridgestone gave up on their little two-stroke 
dream shortly after the four-stroke Honda CB750 took over the world.
 
Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

On Thursday, December 19, 2013 9:17:24 AM UTC-8, Chris in Redding, Ca. 
wrote:

 Hey All,
 I was perusing the local CL yesterday and came upon this

 http://redding.craigslist.org/mcy/4248714400.html


 Who knew?

 Chris
 Redding, Ca.


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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB-Bleroit 51/53cm

2013-12-20 Thread Tony DeFilippo
Was the long low a preview of what became the Atlantis? That is a good looking 
bike, I love the RBW head badge!

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Re: [RBW] SoCal Overnighter AKA S240 December 13 14th

2013-12-20 Thread Curtis McKenzie
Have a great ride!

Curtis

On Thursday, December 19, 2013, Coconutbill wrote:

 Feel better,  BigSchill !



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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB-Bleroit 51/53cm

2013-12-20 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/20/2013 07:15 AM, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

Was the long low a preview of what became the Atlantis? That is a good looking 
bike, I love the RBW head badge!



No, that was the All-Rounder; the Rambouillet had Long-Low geometry.


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Re: [RBW] 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/20/2013 05:31 AM, Bruce Herbitter wrote:

650B is in the 26 family. 26 x 1 3/8 size tubes work well.


I've never seen a Presta version of a 26 x 1 3/8 tube.


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Re: [RBW] 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread David Hays
Wouldn’t this work:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/continental-26-x-1-25-1-75-42mm-presta-valve-tube

On Dec 20, 2013, at 8:42 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On 12/20/2013 05:31 AM, Bruce Herbitter wrote:
 650B is in the 26 family. 26 x 1 3/8 size tubes work well.
 
 I've never seen a Presta version of a 26 x 1 3/8 tube.
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/20/2013 12:42 AM, Michael wrote:


Welcome to the wonderland of 650b wheels/tires! My first 650b was
a Bleriot, too!


I'll save you a lot of time and boil it down for you. I,too, live in a 
650b-free LBS zone and have had to forage for tubes.


1. Just get the tubes from rivbike.com or compasscycle.com. It is 
worth it to just get them. Throw one into each order you make in the 
future to keep them in stock.


*To save you time in the inevitable search for better tires:*
*This is the state of 650b tires as of 12/20/2013 (as far as I have 
researched):*

1. Regarded as the fastest and comfortablest 650b tires:
Grand Bois Hetres and Grand Bois Cypress. Sold at compasscycle.com.
Pari-Motos may be a close second, but I hear they have a bad flatting 
record?


In my experience, the Pari Moto is a fast, comfortable tire.  It is 
considered an event tire, i.e. made to be fast but not to last very 
long.  The tread is quite thin and will wear out quickly compared to 
tires with a thicker tread.  It's hard to generalize from one person's 
experience, but my track record with flats with the Pari Moto is quite 
good, especially for a thin-treaded event tire.  Similar tires such as 
the Parigi-Roubaix and the Cerf Extra Leger had many more flats per mile 
than the Pari Moto.



The Hutchinson 32mm tires at compasscycle.com may be just as fast, 
too? Others can chime in.
2. For the most puncture protected 650b tires that are probably still 
going to fit on a Bleriot:


I'm not sure what you mean by probably still going to fit on a 
Bleriot, because Hetres fit on a Bleriot -- as you note.


Schwalbe Marathon HS420, sold at rivbike.com. It is pure overkill, but 
a delight to ride and not have to worry much after you plow through 
fields of glass on your rides. I ahev them under Longboard fenders on 
my Sam Hillborne. I would guess that they would fot on a Bleriot, but 
haven't tried.
The Hetres and Marathons both measure 40.5 on my 650b rims at 55psi, 
last I checked.
So, widthwise, they should work on a Bleriot. But the Marathon may 
have a taller profile because of its massive tread.


Hetres fit great on my Bleriot under SKS P45 fenders. I have Tektro 
R559 brakes and also works with Paul Centerpull brakes.




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Re: [RBW] 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/20/2013 08:46 AM, David Hays wrote:

Wouldn’t this work:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/continental-26-x-1-25-1-75-42mm-presta-valve-tube


I've never seen a Continental 26 tube.   I'd suspect it would, since it 
claims to fit 1.25, but you never know.  650B tires typically are 1 
1/2 wide, so you'd think a 1.5/1.75 would be fine; and in some brands 
(e.g., the Maxxis Ultralight) it is; but the Specialized tube in the 
1.5/1.75 size is so wide it makes tire installation very, very difficult.



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[RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Jan Heine
Generally speaking, tubes are very stretchable. In a pinch, you can use 
almost any tube somewhat smaller than the size of the tire (within reason - 
I am not sure you could get away with using a 20 kid's bike tube in a 650B 
wheel). High-quality tubes have more uniform walls and can be stretched 
more. (I often use 700C tubes intended for 19-28 mm tires in 32 mm tires.)

So for 650B, almost any 26 tube will work, and those are pretty widely 
available. Most of all, you are unlikely to need more tubes than you carry 
- wide 650B tires get very, very few flats. I've had only 2 flats on Grand 
Bois Hetres in more than 20,000 miles on all kinds of roads, from urban 
commuting in Seattle to gravel roads in the Cascades. Both were on very 
worn tires... I have had as many flats from faulty tubes on test bikes, so 
make sure you get high-quality tubes!

On big rides, I carry two superlight spare tubes plus a glueless patch kit, 
but even that appears to be overkill. Still, it's better than having to 
walk for a day or two – in many places we ride, there is no bike shop 
within 50 miles, so it doesn't matter which tube I ride.

Overall, as 650B is becoming the most popular mountain bike wheel size, you 
can expect the availability of tubes to increase rapidly.

Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
http://www.compasscycle.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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Re: [RBW] SoCal Overnighter AKA S240 December 13 14th

2013-12-20 Thread Hugh Smitham
Thanks Curtis. Wish you could make it. Merry Christmas.

~Hugh

Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep
moving. -- A http://www.goodreads.com/author/show/9810.Albert_Einstein
lbert Einstein



On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 4:53 AM, Curtis McKenzie cmcy...@gmail.com wrote:

 Have a great ride!

 Curtis


 On Thursday, December 19, 2013, Coconutbill wrote:

 Feel better,  BigSchill !



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[RBW] Re: FS or FT: $90 Nitto Mini Rack - $90. Would Trade for Nitto M12+$20 (obo)

2013-12-20 Thread Kevin Mulcahy
Price is OBO. 

Thanks!
Kevin 

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Patrick Moore
I've used, for short periods, 1 tubes in 2 tires (571 X 23 mm or 559 X 1
in standard 2 mtb tire), and 559 tubes in 622 tires (559X2 in 60 mm 29er
tire. Have not tried a 559X1 or 650CX23 mm tube in a 29er tire, yet. But
they do stretch.


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 7:28 AM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Generally speaking, tubes are very stretchable. In a pinch, you can use
 almost any tube somewhat smaller than the size of the tire (within reason -
 I am not sure you could get away with using a 20 kid's bike tube in a 650B
 wheel). High-quality tubes have more uniform walls and can be stretched
 more. (I often use 700C tubes intended for 19-28 mm tires in 32 mm tires.)


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Re: [RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/20/2013 09:28 AM, Jan Heine wrote:
Generally speaking, tubes are very stretchable. In a pinch, you can 
use almost any tube somewhat smaller than the size of the tire (within 
reason - I am not sure you could get away with using a 20 kid's bike 
tube in a 650B wheel). High-quality tubes have more uniform walls and 
can be stretched more. (I often use 700C tubes intended for 19-28 mm 
tires in 32 mm tires.)


I am entirely certain, based on personal experience, that it is entirely 
impossible to use a 32-369 tube in a 622 tire.  I tried, and I was in 
such a befuddled state at that point that it took me several minutes to 
figure out exactly what the problem was (since the tube had -7x1 1/4 
printed on it).





So for 650B, almost any 26 tube will work, and those are pretty 
widely available. Most of all, you are unlikely to need more tubes 
than you carry - wide 650B tires get very, very few flats. I've had 
only 2 flats on Grand Bois Hetres in more than 20,000 miles on all 
kinds of roads, from urban commuting in Seattle to gravel roads in the 
Cascades. Both were on very worn tires... I have had as many flats 
from faulty tubes on test bikes, so make sure you get high-quality tubes!


But a tube that is too wide is exceptionally difficult to install, as 
it's almost impossible to avoid pinching the tube under the tire bead.





On big rides, I carry two superlight spare tubes plus a glueless patch 
kit, but even that appears to be overkill. Still, it's better than 
having to walk for a day or two – in many places we ride, there is no 
bike shop within 50 miles, so it doesn't matter which tube I ride.




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[RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Jeremy Till
Further demonstrating the general flexibility of tubes, QBP now sells tubes 
that are marked as fitting both 559 and 584 wheels.  I expect they're just 
the same as the old 559 tubes with the added clarification that you're okay 
running them in 584 wheels.  

Didn't guys run wide 559 tubes on 622 wheels in the early days of 29ers?

On Friday, December 20, 2013 6:28:14 AM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:

 Generally speaking, tubes are very stretchable. In a pinch, you can use 
 almost any tube somewhat smaller than the size of the tire (within reason - 
 I am not sure you could get away with using a 20 kid's bike tube in a 650B 
 wheel). High-quality tubes have more uniform walls and can be stretched 
 more. (I often use 700C tubes intended for 19-28 mm tires in 32 mm tires.)

 So for 650B, almost any 26 tube will work, and those are pretty widely 
 available. Most of all, you are unlikely to need more tubes than you carry 
 - wide 650B tires get very, very few flats. I've had only 2 flats on Grand 
 Bois Hetres in more than 20,000 miles on all kinds of roads, from urban 
 commuting in Seattle to gravel roads in the Cascades. Both were on very 
 worn tires... I have had as many flats from faulty tubes on test bikes, so 
 make sure you get high-quality tubes!

 On big rides, I carry two superlight spare tubes plus a glueless patch 
 kit, but even that appears to be overkill. Still, it's better than having 
 to walk for a day or two – in many places we ride, there is no bike shop 
 within 50 miles, so it doesn't matter which tube I ride.

 Overall, as 650B is becoming the most popular mountain bike wheel size, 
 you can expect the availability of tubes to increase rapidly.

 Jan Heine
 Compass Bicycles Ltd.
 http://www.compasscycle.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/


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Re: [RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/20/2013 12:08 PM, Jeremy Till wrote:
Further demonstrating the general flexibility of tubes, QBP now sells 
tubes that are marked as fitting both 559 and 584 wheels.  I expect 
they're just the same as the old 559 tubes with the added 
clarification that you're okay running them in 584 wheels.


Back in 2006 I posted to the 650B list the following list of sizes the 
tube fit, taken from the documentation accompanying the Schwalbe 650B tube:


 47-559 (26x1.75)
 47-571
 37-584
 44-584
 32-590
 37-590
 44-590
 32-597


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Re: [RBW] 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread Bruce Herbitter
when I get home I'll double check and send you a pic iirc.


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 7:42 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On 12/20/2013 05:31 AM, Bruce Herbitter wrote:

 650B is in the 26 family. 26 x 1 3/8 size tubes work well.


 I've never seen a Presta version of a 26 x 1 3/8 tube.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Dancing Around the Lugged Steel Maypole

2013-12-20 Thread jim
I've seen alot broken cables in STI shifters for years, sometimes resulting 
in the need for a new brifter.
Jim (in icy Madison, WI been wrenching for 25+ years)

On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 5:28:32 PM UTC-6, Brewster Fong wrote:


 On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 3:20:23 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: 

 We're seeing a lot of broken right hand shift cables these days: there's 
 some sort of 
 fatigue point inside many Shimano STI units. But when the cable breaks, 
 it's always at the shifter.  

  
 Yup, it appears that ever since Shimano decided to put their cabling under 
 the handlebar tape, there's been problems with the head of the shifter 
 cable breaking inside the STI lever:
  

 http://jimlangley.blogspot.com/2007/09/q-cable-stuck-inside-shimano-sti.html
  
 This didn't seem to happen when Shimano had their STI cables outside of 
 the handlebar tape.
  

 That leaves lots of perfectly good cable 
 attached to the rear derailleur. 

 So unscrew the bolts on a water bottle cage.  With your thumb push the 
 rear derailleur in so that the chain lines up with a sprocket that will 
 give you a couple of usable gears on your two chain rings, and put 
 tension on the derailleur cable to hold it in place.  Catch the cable 
 under the water bottle cage and screw the bolts back down to hold the 
 tension. 

  
 Great advice! Good Luck!


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[RBW] BikeRumor mentions an S24O

2013-12-20 Thread Chris in Redding, Ca.
Hey All,
Check out

http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/12/20/bikerumor-pic-of-the-day-ride-sleep-ride/

Do we know these folks? And seeing as how I grew up on Mt Diablo, I can say 
that the photo looks alot like Diablo.

Cheers,
Chris
Redding, Ca.

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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-20 Thread Ryan
Good Luck, Cecily. Surely that Betty Foy is meant to be, and though the 
healing may be hard, my hope is that you and your medical team  will make  
it happen so you can ride your Betty again. It's hard for a bike lover to 
be off the bike. 
 
Merry Christmas and a healthier New Year
 
Ryan in Winnipeg
On Thursday, December 19, 2013 4:38:31 PM UTC-6, Cecily Walker wrote:

 Thank you, Tom. Over the last 10 years my medical team and I have tried 
 everything. I lost -- and regained -- weight so many times, I've decided 
 it's one battle I'm not going fight. Besides: fat ladies don't get 
 wrinkles. ;-)  

 You're exactly right that life happens. That's generally the attitude I 
 try to take these days. Everyone has a burden: osteoarthritis and 
 rheumatoid arthritis just happen to be mine, and surgery's the remedy. It 
 won't be easy or fun, but once I've healed I'll be a brand new me. That 
 thought keeps me going. 

 Cheers,
 Cecily

 On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 9:53:53 PM UTC-8, Tom Virgil wrote: 

 Dearest Cecily, 

 I am adding you to my prayers for recovery, restoration, revitalization, 
 and resumption of you use of Betty Foy.  Stop the self punishment and 
 recrimination right now.   

 I am no expert on medical, diet or any other therapy for this, but there 
 are some good comments in here.

 I am a math/engineering type of person who has somehow found himself in 
 charge of a rather large group of people.  Many of them have increased 
 their responsibility and investment of time to do their jobs.  And, as in 
 your case, life happens.  They go into the recrimination mode because they 
 are not running ten miles a day or working out.  It becomes a trap.

 We recommend setting minimums.  Rather than just let her set idle, what 
 is the minimum you could do with Betty Foy and not blame yourself for doing 
 nothing?  The blame yourself is the problem thing.  In one case, a former 
 runner at my work agreed to at least set her running shoes at the door 
 every morning.   That's a minimum.  After a few mornings of that, she put 
 them on and went for a walk.  Walking led to running again.  Running a 
 small amount has been growing slowly back to her previous level of 
 performance while still meeting her work responsibilities.  It takes time. 
  What could you do with Betty Foy?  Go and look at her in her station in 
 your home.  Work on her (install the rack).  Ride 1 block and get the mail. 
  Grab her handlebars and walk her to a nearby destination.  Use he basket 
 to portage some purchase home.  You don't have to do it all at once.  Step 
 by step, dear.

 Best Regards,

 Tom

 On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 5:46:45 PM UTC-8, Cecily Walker wrote: 

 My osteoarthritis has become so bad in the last few weeks that it's 
 nearly impossible to ride my Betty Foy. Even after a professional bike 
 fitting, I simply don't have enough flexibility in the knee to make 
 pedaling possible. Part of me feels like it's punishment for buying such an 
 expensive bike in the first place, but the thing that hurts the most is 
 I'll have to take *public transit* to work until things improve/until 
 surgery, whichever comes first.  

 But at least I'll finally have time to put the Nitto front rack on the 
 bike. 

 *heavy sigh*
 Cecily



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[RBW] Re: BikeRumor mentions an S24O

2013-12-20 Thread Irv
I rode with Tony on the SFR Davis Night 200k in 2012. Good dude, and he has 
some pretty flippin' cool bikes!

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[RBW] New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-20 Thread dougP
My name is Doug  I have a serious luggage rack problem.now, I think I 
need another one.

In today's BLUG post, check out the rear rack on the 51 cm Sam in the last 
photo.  It's got the lower pannier mounting bars that allow easy access to 
the top platform with panniers attached.  It looks like the front hoop is 
either really low or gone, so there is more useful area on the platform.  
This really looks like a good evolution.  If the lower mounts are nice long 
tabs that can be cut to fit, one of these may wind up on the mini-Lantis.

This is the rack that's been mentioned somewhere (here? BLUG?) as one of 
Mark's projects.  I recall something about Rivendell wanting to replace the 
2 different sizes of Big Back Rack with a single version, which makes a lot 
of sense.  This looks like it.  ETA from Nitto is soon.  

dougP

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[RBW] Re: New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-20 Thread Mike Schiller
I wish Mark's other project rack (the HUB area rack) would be sooner than 
later too.   Seems like it's been forever.

~mike

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[RBW] Re: New RBW Silver brand chainrings available!

2013-12-20 Thread Andrew Drummond
The hidden chainring bolt, while a pain in the ass and kind of ugly, is a 
result of getting rid of a pair of stress risers - on cranks where two of 
the spider arms straddle the crank arm, there's a small angle where cracks 
can start, because the web is thin and is subject to constant stress cycles 
(see old Campy cranks for a popular example). When one of the spider arms 
is moved under the crank arm, those angles are opened way up and the stress 
risers are greatly reduced. Sort of like the point on the bb end of the 
Ritchey logic crank - it looks weird, but prevents the crank from cracking 
from one corner of the square tapered hole.

Andrew

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[RBW] Re: New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-20 Thread Bill Lindsay
Dang, you're right, that rear rack is HOT

On Friday, December 20, 2013 12:02:34 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:

 My name is Doug  I have a serious luggage rack problem.now, I think I 
 need another one.

 In today's BLUG post, check out the rear rack on the 51 cm Sam in the last 
 photo.  It's got the lower pannier mounting bars that allow easy access to 
 the top platform with panniers attached.  It looks like the front hoop is 
 either really low or gone, so there is more useful area on the platform.  
 This really looks like a good evolution.  If the lower mounts are nice long 
 tabs that can be cut to fit, one of these may wind up on the mini-Lantis.

 This is the rack that's been mentioned somewhere (here? BLUG?) as one of 
 Mark's projects.  I recall something about Rivendell wanting to replace the 
 2 different sizes of Big Back Rack with a single version, which makes a lot 
 of sense.  This looks like it.  ETA from Nitto is soon.  

 dougP


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[RBW] A moment of sadness

2013-12-20 Thread PeterG
Cecily,
As someone who has, from time to time, been physically prohibited from riding, 
I can feel your frustration. Almost every time I thought my cycling days were 
over, my body healed itself and allowed me to have another season of riding. I 
hope you have the same outcome. Keep your thoughts positive and keep reading 
this wonderful blog. There is a lot of inspiration here and a lot of people who 
care...Merry Christmas Cecily...

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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-20 Thread Deacon Patrick
Peter:
Almost every time... so you aren't able to ride now?

With abadnon,
Patrick

On Friday, December 20, 2013 3:37:37 PM UTC-7, PeterG wrote:

 Cecily,
 As someone who has, from time to time, been physically prohibited from 
 riding, I can feel your frustration. Almost every time I thought my cycling 
 days were over, my body healed itself and allowed me to have another season 
 of riding. I hope you have the same outcome. Keep your thoughts positive 
 and keep reading this wonderful blog. There is a lot of inspiration here 
 and a lot of people who care...Merry Christmas Cecily...

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[RBW] Re: New RBW Silver brand chainrings available!

2013-12-20 Thread Garth
I believe this is more a product of certain manufacturer failures, rather 
than the design itself.  Sugino makes many cranks, and the XD is the only 1 
that uses the hidden bolt design !  

This includes the 75, RD , Alpina and Mighty series of cranks ... all 
traditional or whatever we can call that design.  The 75's have been 
around a long long time . 





On Friday, December 20, 2013 3:56:25 PM UTC-5, Andrew Drummond wrote:

 The hidden chainring bolt, while a pain in the ass and kind of ugly, is a 
 result of getting rid of a pair of stress risers - on cranks where two of 
 the spider arms straddle the crank arm, there's a small angle where cracks 
 can start, because the web is thin and is subject to constant stress cycles 
 (see old Campy cranks for a popular example). When one of the spider arms 
 is moved under the crank arm, those angles are opened way up and the stress 
 risers are greatly reduced. Sort of like the point on the bb end of the 
 Ritchey logic crank - it looks weird, but prevents the crank from cracking 
 from one corner of the square tapered hole.

 Andrew


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Re: [RBW] New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-20 Thread Curtis McKenzie
Where is the 68 cm Sam?


On Friday, December 20, 2013, dougP wrote:

 My name is Doug  I have a serious luggage rack problem.now, I think I
 need another one.

 In today's BLUG post, check out the rear rack on the 51 cm Sam in the last
 photo.  It's got the lower pannier mounting bars that allow easy access to
 the top platform with panniers attached.  It looks like the front hoop is
 either really low or gone, so there is more useful area on the platform.
 This really looks like a good evolution.  If the lower mounts are nice long
 tabs that can be cut to fit, one of these may wind up on the mini-Lantis.

 This is the rack that's been mentioned somewhere (here? BLUG?) as one of
 Mark's projects.  I recall something about Rivendell wanting to replace the
 2 different sizes of Big Back Rack with a single version, which makes a lot
 of sense.  This looks like it.  ETA from Nitto is soon.

 dougP

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Re: [RBW] New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-20 Thread Bill Lindsay
I don't believe they offer the Sam Hillborne in 68cm.  The Sam only takes 
us up to 96cm PBH.  ~100cm PBH folks and taller are forced to go Hilsen 
nowadays.  

On Friday, December 20, 2013 2:45:40 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote:

 Where is the 68 cm Sam?


 On Friday, December 20, 2013, dougP wrote:

 My name is Doug  I have a serious luggage rack problem.now, I think 
 I need another one.

 In today's BLUG post, check out the rear rack on the 51 cm Sam in the 
 last photo.  It's got the lower pannier mounting bars that allow easy 
 access to the top platform with panniers attached.  It looks like the front 
 hoop is either really low or gone, so there is more useful area on the 
 platform.  This really looks like a good evolution.  If the lower mounts 
 are nice long tabs that can be cut to fit, one of these may wind up on the 
 mini-Lantis.

 This is the rack that's been mentioned somewhere (here? BLUG?) as one of 
 Mark's projects.  I recall something about Rivendell wanting to replace the 
 2 different sizes of Big Back Rack with a single version, which makes a lot 
 of sense.  This looks like it.  ETA from Nitto is soon.  

 dougP

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Re: [RBW] 650B Question

2013-12-20 Thread cyclotourist
In my 650X47B tires (Vee Speedsters), I am happily using Q-Bike
700X28-32C tubes. They fit perfect.
Before that I tried a Specialized 26X1.00 tube and it failed at the seam.
It was not the Epic Roubaix of tubes.

On 12/20/13, Bruce Herbitter bruce.herbit...@gmail.com wrote:
 when I get home I'll double check and send you a pic iirc.


 On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 7:42 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On 12/20/2013 05:31 AM, Bruce Herbitter wrote:

 650B is in the 26 family. 26 x 1 3/8 size tubes work well.


 I've never seen a Presta version of a 26 x 1 3/8 tube.


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-- 
Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: New RBW Silver brand chainrings available!

2013-12-20 Thread Michael


 If RBW makes their own crankset, I hope they design it so that all 
 the  chainrings can be taken off and reinstalled without having to pull of 
 the crank arm.

That would be handy for un-mechanics. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: New RBW Silver brand chainrings available!

2013-12-20 Thread Patrick Moore
If Rivendell makes its own cranks, how many say 110/74 and how many say
smaller -- 86 or 54 or whatever the old Cyclotourist is?

The virtue of the smaller BCD is that you can run very compact doubles in
the outer two positions; 54 down to 26 and, IIRC, 86 down to 26. I use a
XD2 as a 38/24, but I have to run the rings in the middle and innermost
positions -- not that this is a huge hardship, but it would be nice to have
1 BCD for all 3 rings.

My vote, fwiw, is a budget alternative to the Compass Herse cranks, but
with a bit of flare to the arms so that they can accomodate frames that
themselves accommodate 60 mm tires, at least, while keeping Q to a minimum.

That -- small bcd, minimum Q for mtb frames, silver, silver, silver --
is, I think,  a real and valuable niche, and I'd love something like it for
the Fargo.


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 4:39 PM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 If RBW makes their own crankset, I hope they design it so that all
 the  chainrings can be taken off and reinstalled without having to pull of
 the crank arm.

 That would be handy for un-mechanics.

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Re: [RBW] Re: New RBW Silver brand chainrings available!

2013-12-20 Thread Patrick Moore
That should read: ... 86 down to *28*

On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 5:23 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:


 The virtue of the smaller BCD is that you can run very compact doubles in
 the outer two positions; 54 down to 26 and, IIRC, 86 down to 26.


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[RBW] Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-20 Thread Patrick Moore
I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the
retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave
Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos,
leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the
cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of
dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19
instead of the 17/20.

(Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is the
perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am
carrying a heavy load.)

I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning the
dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much fretting
and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a flat file
to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta
chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in
the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even
a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain
slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend
of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to
support the axle.

I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99,
since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got
Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the
gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?);
the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require
replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99
Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up
sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts
make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very
few mm.

2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as you
move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2 the
distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run,
instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one
enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of
chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain
deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal,
then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that
this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the
axle will move laterally?

(For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with crude
hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial
esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
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Re: [RBW] Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-20 Thread Peter Morgano
Patrick, you are an inspiration for me... to keep buying IGH hubs and learn
nothing about gear inches, haha.! :-D
On Dec 20, 2013 7:50 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos,
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is the
 perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning the
 dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much fretting
 and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a flat file
 to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99,
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?);
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run,
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal,
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial
 esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
 --
 *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!*
 Certified Resume Writer
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
 http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/

 Albuquerque, NM

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Re: [RBW] Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-20 Thread Patrick Moore
Yeah, if one is uptight enough to worry about gears when all you ride is
fixed/ss, then one does have a problem.

Back in the day, I used (he blushingly admitted) to print out little gear
charts and tape them to my stem, and stare at them lovingly as I rode. In
boring staff meetings, I'd manually work out gear combos on my doodle
pads.

Seriously, if you can believe that, a knowledge of gearing, if you care to
take the trouble to acquire it, makes cycling just a little bit more fun. I
know, in a very bodily-conscious way, what 70 gear inches means for a
given bike, tires, load, incline, wind, surface, etc etc etc. And, if you
bother to use multiple gears, you can multiply this satisfaction by N,
where N is the number of usable and non-duplicate gears on your drivetrain.

My brother, Peter, is just the opposite: he slings on a cassette that he
picked up cheap and slings on a crankset that he picked up cheap and just
rides what feels comfortable until it is no longer comfortable, then
changes. He gives no damn at all about what cog combos he has.

We are complete opposites in so many different ways -- he a hoarder and a
slob, me a throw it away goddammit! and a fussbudget.

O Freud, where is thy slip?


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 5:54 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.comwrote:

 Patrick, you are an inspiration for me... to keep buying IGH hubs and
 learn nothing about gear inches, haha.! :-D
 On Dec 20, 2013 7:50 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos,
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is
 the perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning
 the dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much
 fretting and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a
 flat file to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99,
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?);
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run,
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal,
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial
 esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
 --
 *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!*
 Certified Resume Writer
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
 http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/

 Albuquerque, NM

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 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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 To unsubscribe from 

[RBW] Re: New RBW Silver brand chainrings available!

2013-12-20 Thread sameness
I envision RBW's crankset with tentacular arms, perhaps with a diagacrank 
for 172.5 and up.

Jeff Hagedorn
Warragul, VIC Australia

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[RBW] Re: SoCal Overnighter AKA S240 December 13 14th

2013-12-20 Thread Tom Virgil
You rascals have a great time.

Tom

On Thursday, December 5, 2013 5:11:08 PM UTC-8, hsmitham wrote:

 Calling all hearty Riv Riders.

 For me at least this will be my last overnight for 2013 and I figure as 
 next year my resolution is to do one a month,12-S240's or The S240 a month 
 club...yeah it's easier on my finances than the Bike a Month Club but 
 perhaps it will have it's own challenges like work schedule and honey do 
 lists among other obligations, but I digress...the ride is planned for the 
 Mount Gleason area weather permitting, the details are 
 herehttps://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/aVV3Hgh-vTw
  which 
 are the original post.

 Mr. Shiller AKA the BigSchill over Flickr yonder and I have worked out a 
 alternate ride if as I mentioned before above the weather doesn't 
 cooperate. If the low temp at Mill Creek Summit is let's say in the low 
 30's (not all have the gear for that temperature) then we'll call it for 
 the following alt-ride.

 Start Ventura out the Ventura river trail to the Ojai Valley bike path 
 extension through Ojai, 33N to Forest route 5N13 to Matilija Campground 27 
 miles with obvious climbing. I am told 
 Robhttp://oceanaircycles.com/about-2/about/ Perks 
 of Ocean Air Cycles did this ride earlier in the year.The directions are 
 herehttps://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Ventura,+CAdaddr=Matilija+Campground,+Ventura,+CAhl=ensll=34.521126,-119.353065sspn=0.088538,0.154324geocode=FVD9CgIds7Xk-ClNOZdQFa3pgDHo6no2fPXvJA%3BFcGuDgIdHWXi-CkZQSnmUKDpgDHtrV9eE9PxVAoq=ventura+cat=hgl=usdirflg=bmra=ltmz=11lci=bike
 .

 I figure we can call the ride by Wednesday the 11th if the forecast looks 
 dismal so there's time to make travel arraingments

 Note: I'd like to get an early ride out time for plenty of leisure read 
 that as photo op's, rest breaks, snacks and because it gets dark early make 
 camp with some day light left. So how does an 8am start sound? I'll be 
 driving up since it's only an hour or so drive for me.

 I understand if taking off a Friday is difficult for some but then who 
 really needs to work on a Friday anyways! And for those of you who loads of 
 free time here's something to do, ride with good people get back to nature 
 (frosty as it maybe) and in the end have a good meal and some brews at the 
 Anacapa Brewing Co. in DT Ventura. Sounding better! All right! Let's do it.

 ~Hugh

  
 Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep 
 moving. -- Albert Eistein






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[RBW] Hunqapillar and Jones bars set up question(s)

2013-12-20 Thread Christian
Hi All,

So, I'm thinking of getting a Jones bar for my Hunq. 
http://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar.html Currently, it's a set up with 
Noodles--which I love--but I want something more trail oriented.  Yes, I 
can ride trails with my Noodles.  I have Albatross bars on my LHT so I am 
familiar with those too.  And I'm aware of Rivendell's Nitto 
Bullmoose--cool bars, but the Jones are even wider with more hand 
positions.  

What I'm really wondering about is experience folks might have with 1 to 1 
1/8 conversions using either a stem adapter like 
this 
http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems/vo-threadless-stem-adaptor.html
 
or using a quill stem with an open face 31.8 clamp diameter like 
this: http://www.origin-8.com/product-description/?prod_model_uid=7262

Pro of the stem adapter is that I can then whatever stem I want; pro of a 
quill open face is that it's cheaper and perhaps slightly (but ever so) 
more elegant.  

Are folks aware of other quill open face 31.8 stems--something NOS?  Salsa 
made an open face quill for sometime but I'm pretty it was only in 
25.4--maybe 26.  

Thanks for any advice.  I think I've got it covered, but thought I'd run it 
by this always helpful bunch.

Christian 

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Re: [RBW] Hunqapillar and Jones bars set up question(s)

2013-12-20 Thread cyclotourist
I have a stem adapter on our tandem, and it works great. I'd recommend the
Nitto one over the VO one.

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 5:46 PM, Christian
christian.w.mcmil...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi All,

 So, I'm thinking of getting a Jones bar for my Hunq.
 http://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar.html Currently, it's a set up with
 Noodles--which I love--but I want something more trail oriented.  Yes, I
 can ride trails with my Noodles.  I have Albatross bars on my LHT so I am
 familiar with those too.  And I'm aware of Rivendell's Nitto
 Bullmoose--cool bars, but the Jones are even wider with more hand
 positions.

 What I'm really wondering about is experience folks might have with 1 to
 1 1/8 conversions using either a stem adapter like this
 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems/vo-threadless-stem-adaptor.htmlor
  using a quill stem with an open face 31.8 clamp diameter like this:
 http://www.origin-8.com/product-description/?prod_model_uid=7262

 Pro of the stem adapter is that I can then whatever stem I want; pro of a
 quill open face is that it's cheaper and perhaps slightly (but ever so)
 more elegant.

 Are folks aware of other quill open face 31.8 stems--something NOS?  Salsa
 made an open face quill for sometime but I'm pretty it was only in
 25.4--maybe 26.

 Thanks for any advice.  I think I've got it covered, but thought I'd run
 it by this always helpful bunch.

 Christian

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[RBW] Re: Bridgestone motorcycle

2013-12-20 Thread Michael Flournoy
I knew Bridgestone as a motorcycle company before tires even. They were 
know for being fair bikes with really strong running motors. I remember a 
particularly nasty little minibike called the Cibie that was really crap 
except it had a Bridgestone 180cc motor that was awesome fast. Dangerously 
fast. It was much later that I came to understand they also made pretty 
good bicycles. I wonder what other waters they dipped their toes into?

On Thursday, December 19, 2013 4:03:17 PM UTC-5, Jim M. wrote:


 On Thursday, December 19, 2013 10:37:05 AM UTC-8, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Wondering whether that was all Bridgestone, or whether Honda had any hand 
 in manufacturing for them??? 


 That's a 2-stroke motor. Honda only did 4-stroke back then. Except for the 
 upswept pipe, it looks almost exactly like a Yamaha 90 from the era: 


 And my apologies for going far OT but that was an era when I started 
 motorcycling.

 jim m
 wc ca


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[RBW] Re: SoCal Overnighter AKA S240 December 13 14th

2013-12-20 Thread dougP
By now, they should be well out of wifi range.  There should be some good 
pix  a story by late Sat or Sunday.  Stay tuned!  Hopefully we can 
organize a repeat in the future, as I would love to do this.  

dougP

On Friday, December 20, 2013 5:36:29 PM UTC-8, Tom Virgil wrote:

 You rascals have a great time.

 Tom

 On Thursday, December 5, 2013 5:11:08 PM UTC-8, hsmitham wrote:

 Calling all hearty Riv Riders.

 For me at least this will be my last overnight for 2013 and I figure as 
 next year my resolution is to do one a month,12-S240's or The S240 a month 
 club...yeah it's easier on my finances than the Bike a Month Club but 
 perhaps it will have it's own challenges like work schedule and honey do 
 lists among other obligations, but I digress...the ride is planned for the 
 Mount Gleason area weather permitting, the details are 
 herehttps://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/aVV3Hgh-vTw
  which 
 are the original post.

 Mr. Shiller AKA the BigSchill over Flickr yonder and I have worked out a 
 alternate ride if as I mentioned before above the weather doesn't 
 cooperate. If the low temp at Mill Creek Summit is let's say in the low 
 30's (not all have the gear for that temperature) then we'll call it for 
 the following alt-ride.

 Start Ventura out the Ventura river trail to the Ojai Valley bike path 
 extension through Ojai, 33N to Forest route 5N13 to Matilija Campground 27 
 miles with obvious climbing. I am told 
 Robhttp://oceanaircycles.com/about-2/about/ Perks 
 of Ocean Air Cycles did this ride earlier in the year.The directions are 
 herehttps://maps.google.com/maps?saddr=Ventura,+CAdaddr=Matilija+Campground,+Ventura,+CAhl=ensll=34.521126,-119.353065sspn=0.088538,0.154324geocode=FVD9CgIds7Xk-ClNOZdQFa3pgDHo6no2fPXvJA%3BFcGuDgIdHWXi-CkZQSnmUKDpgDHtrV9eE9PxVAoq=ventura+cat=hgl=usdirflg=bmra=ltmz=11lci=bike
 .

 I figure we can call the ride by Wednesday the 11th if the forecast looks 
 dismal so there's time to make travel arraingments

 Note: I'd like to get an early ride out time for plenty of leisure read 
 that as photo op's, rest breaks, snacks and because it gets dark early make 
 camp with some day light left. So how does an 8am start sound? I'll be 
 driving up since it's only an hour or so drive for me.

 I understand if taking off a Friday is difficult for some but then who 
 really needs to work on a Friday anyways! And for those of you who loads of 
 free time here's something to do, ride with good people get back to nature 
 (frosty as it maybe) and in the end have a good meal and some brews at the 
 Anacapa Brewing Co. in DT Ventura. Sounding better! All right! Let's do it.

 ~Hugh

  
 Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep 
 moving. -- Albert Eistein






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Re: [RBW] Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-20 Thread dougP
Patrick:

So you've given up the Dremel for hand files?  Good call!  To your 
questions, I'm clueless.  Why not just ride it until your Park tool says 
replace?  

dougP

On Friday, December 20, 2013 5:03:22 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Yeah, if one is uptight enough to worry about gears when all you ride is 
 fixed/ss, then one does have a problem.

 Back in the day, I used (he blushingly admitted) to print out little gear 
 charts and tape them to my stem, and stare at them lovingly as I rode. In 
 boring staff meetings, I'd manually work out gear combos on my doodle 
 pads.

 Seriously, if you can believe that, a knowledge of gearing, if you care to 
 take the trouble to acquire it, makes cycling just a little bit more fun. I 
 know, in a very bodily-conscious way, what 70 gear inches means for a 
 given bike, tires, load, incline, wind, surface, etc etc etc. And, if you 
 bother to use multiple gears, you can multiply this satisfaction by N, 
 where N is the number of usable and non-duplicate gears on your drivetrain.

 My brother, Peter, is just the opposite: he slings on a cassette that he 
 picked up cheap and slings on a crankset that he picked up cheap and just 
 rides what feels comfortable until it is no longer comfortable, then 
 changes. He gives no damn at all about what cog combos he has.

 We are complete opposites in so many different ways -- he a hoarder and a 
 slob, me a throw it away goddammit! and a fussbudget.

 O Freud, where is thy slip?


 On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 5:54 PM, Peter Morgano 
 uscpet...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Patrick, you are an inspiration for me... to keep buying IGH hubs and 
 learn nothing about gear inches, haha.! :-D 
 On Dec 20, 2013 7:50 PM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the 
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave 
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos, 
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the 
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of 
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19 
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is 
 the perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am 
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning 
 the dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much 
 fretting and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a 
 flat file to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta 
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in 
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even 
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain 
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend 
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to 
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99, 
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got 
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the 
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?); 
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require 
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99 
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up 
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts 
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very 
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as 
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2 
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run, 
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one 
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of 
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain 
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal, 
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that 
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the 
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with 
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial 
 esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
 

Re: [RBW] Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-20 Thread Patrick Moore
I want some idea in advance of how much more I need to file the dropouts.


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 8:41 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 Patrick:

 So you've given up the Dremel for hand files?  Good call!  To your
 questions, I'm clueless.  Why not just ride it until your Park tool says
 replace?

 dougP

 On Friday, December 20, 2013 5:03:22 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Yeah, if one is uptight enough to worry about gears when all you ride is
 fixed/ss, then one does have a problem.

 Back in the day, I used (he blushingly admitted) to print out little gear
 charts and tape them to my stem, and stare at them lovingly as I rode. In
 boring staff meetings, I'd manually work out gear combos on my doodle
 pads.

 Seriously, if you can believe that, a knowledge of gearing, if you care
 to take the trouble to acquire it, makes cycling just a little bit more
 fun. I know, in a very bodily-conscious way, what 70 gear inches means
 for a given bike, tires, load, incline, wind, surface, etc etc etc. And, if
 you bother to use multiple gears, you can multiply this satisfaction by N,
 where N is the number of usable and non-duplicate gears on your drivetrain.

 My brother, Peter, is just the opposite: he slings on a cassette that he
 picked up cheap and slings on a crankset that he picked up cheap and just
 rides what feels comfortable until it is no longer comfortable, then
 changes. He gives no damn at all about what cog combos he has.

 We are complete opposites in so many different ways -- he a hoarder and a
 slob, me a throw it away goddammit! and a fussbudget.

 O Freud, where is thy slip?


 On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 5:54 PM, Peter Morgano uscpet...@gmail.comwrote:

 Patrick, you are an inspiration for me... to keep buying IGH hubs and
 learn nothing about gear inches, haha.! :-D
 On Dec 20, 2013 7:50 PM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos,
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is
 the perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning
 the dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much
 fretting and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a
 flat file to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a
 heckuvalotta chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of
 the dropout in the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but,
 I daresay, even a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling
 gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99,
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?);
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to
 require replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on
 the '99 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run,
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal,
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he 

[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar and Jones bars set up question(s)

2013-12-20 Thread Mike Schiller
I used a Nitto adapter on my tandem also (now sold) and it worked great.  

I've never found any quill stem that uses a 31.8 clamp. So just get the 
adapter and a threadless stem.  I'm curious about the Jones bars, maybe 
when I get my 29+ bike I'll try one.

~mike 


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[RBW] Quickbeam or Simple One for my needs?

2013-12-20 Thread Michael
Which of the RBW single speeds is for me based on my personal and need 
based info below?

1. PBH = 82
2. Longest TT I can bear = 55.5cm c-c (would require 6 or 7 cm stem 
extension for me with Noodles, but I am ok with that).
3. Prefer sidepulls.
4. Like either 650b or 700c.
5. Need fenderable with tires at least 32 mm wide.

The hard part is picking a gear ratio because I live in rolling terrain 
area.

Thanks for any help.


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[RBW] Bike #1

2013-12-20 Thread rob markwardt
I finally found the source of all my madness.  Bike #1 of who knows how 
many.  I don't think it's lugged but check out that fork crown and 
fenders...are those Bosco bars?!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/11474239905/

Rob Markwardt
Seattle, WA

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