[RBW] Re: Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-21 Thread Jay in Tel Aviv
Patrick, you are not alone. I have been know to work out gear inches in my 
hear while riding. That is on hold now that I have (temporarily?) stopped 
shifting on my commute. 40/17/63.5 is where it is and it's staying there 
for now. That's part of what I'm enjoying about not shifting - frees the 
mind for other things.

Jay

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 2:50:50 AM UTC+2, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the 
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave 
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos, 
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the 
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of 
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19 
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is the 
 perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am 
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning the 
 dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much fretting 
 and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a flat file 
 to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta 
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in 
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even 
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain 
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend 
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to 
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99, 
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got 
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the 
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?); 
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require 
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99 
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up 
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts 
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very 
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as 
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2 
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run, 
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one 
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of 
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain 
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal, 
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that 
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the 
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with 
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial 
 esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
 -- 
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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar and Jones bars set up question(s)

2013-12-21 Thread Matthew J
If it were me, I would drop Eric Estlund at Winter Bicycles a line and get 
a custom.  I have two Winter stems now, will have three sometime next year. 
 Could not be happier.

http://www.winterbicycles.com/gallery/stems/

On Friday, December 20, 2013 7:46:40 PM UTC-6, Christian wrote:

 Hi All,

 So, I'm thinking of getting a Jones bar for my Hunq. 
 http://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar.html Currently, it's a set up with 
 Noodles--which I love--but I want something more trail oriented.  Yes, I 
 can ride trails with my Noodles.  I have Albatross bars on my LHT so I am 
 familiar with those too.  And I'm aware of Rivendell's Nitto 
 Bullmoose--cool bars, but the Jones are even wider with more hand 
 positions.  

 What I'm really wondering about is experience folks might have with 1 to 
 1 1/8 conversions using either a stem adapter like this 
 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems/vo-threadless-stem-adaptor.htmlor
  using a quill stem with an open face 31.8 clamp diameter like this: 
 http://www.origin-8.com/product-description/?prod_model_uid=7262

 Pro of the stem adapter is that I can then whatever stem I want; pro of a 
 quill open face is that it's cheaper and perhaps slightly (but ever so) 
 more elegant.  

 Are folks aware of other quill open face 31.8 stems--something NOS?  Salsa 
 made an open face quill for sometime but I'm pretty it was only in 
 25.4--maybe 26.  

 Thanks for any advice.  I think I've got it covered, but thought I'd run 
 it by this always helpful bunch.

 Christian 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunqapillar and Jones bars set up question(s)

2013-12-21 Thread Christian McMillen
Thanks for the reminder of the Nitto adapter--if I go adapter I'll go Nitto. 
The Winter stems look nice; too costly for me now. 

Mike: the Origin8 stem I linked to is a 31.8 quill. 

Thanks again,

Christian

 On Dec 21, 2013, at 6:30 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If it were me, I would drop Eric Estlund at Winter Bicycles a line and get a 
 custom.  I have two Winter stems now, will have three sometime next year.  
 Could not be happier.
 
 http://www.winterbicycles.com/gallery/stems/
 
 On Friday, December 20, 2013 7:46:40 PM UTC-6, Christian wrote:
 Hi All,
 
 So, I'm thinking of getting a Jones bar for my Hunq. 
 http://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar.html Currently, it's a set up with 
 Noodles--which I love--but I want something more trail oriented.  Yes, I can 
 ride trails with my Noodles.  I have Albatross bars on my LHT so I am 
 familiar with those too.  And I'm aware of Rivendell's Nitto Bullmoose--cool 
 bars, but the Jones are even wider with more hand positions.  
 
 What I'm really wondering about is experience folks might have with 1 to 1 
 1/8 conversions using either a stem adapter like this 
 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/stems/threadless-stems/vo-threadless-stem-adaptor.html
  or using a quill stem with an open face 31.8 clamp diameter like this: 
 http://www.origin-8.com/product-description/?prod_model_uid=7262
 
 Pro of the stem adapter is that I can then whatever stem I want; pro of a 
 quill open face is that it's cheaper and perhaps slightly (but ever so) more 
 elegant.  
 
 Are folks aware of other quill open face 31.8 stems--something NOS?  Salsa 
 made an open face quill for sometime but I'm pretty it was only in 
 25.4--maybe 26.  
 
 Thanks for any advice.  I think I've got it covered, but thought I'd run it 
 by this always helpful bunch.
 
 Christian 
 
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[RBW] A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread MobileBill
As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of choice 
now for mountain biking. 
So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
Hunq or a Bombadil. 
(My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
(on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.

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[RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
As you allude to, frame size (aka your size) comes into play here. My PBH 
is 90 and I ride a 62 cm Hunqapillar on all kids of surfaces, to include 
rugged single track, bike packing. And that's with Schwalbe Dureme touring 
tires. I'll be trying out Smart Sams after St. Nick visits. Grin. I love 
the larger size wheel (vs 26, my only previous experience) as I can roll 
over most things much more easily. Maneuverability has not been an issue 
for me. I do not experience the 700 wheels as settling at all.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 7:45:58 AM UTC-7, MobileBill wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of choice 
 now for mountain biking. 
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
 Hunq or a Bombadil. 
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.


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Re: [RBW] A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread cyclotourist
I'd go further and say that I would like to see 650B available on their
country bikes (Hillbornes  Hilsens) like Salukis and Bleriots used to be.
 650B is such a great wheel, but if I wanted it in my size ~60cm frame, I
have to go custom, which just isn't happening. Hence my going outside the
fold to buy a Salsa recently. That's money that I would be much happier
buying a Rivendell with, but no such luck. Always keeping my eyes open for
a used Saluki, but they are few and far between. So yeah, need more 650B
love out there!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 6:45 AM, MobileBill zeusande...@gmail.com wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of choice
 now for mountain biking.
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a
 Hunq or a Bombadil.
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades.
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.

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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-21 Thread PeterG
Deacon,
I'm not riding right now. I took yet another spill riding when I should have 
been reading this blog (a combination of bad weather  bad luck),..but i'm 
almost healed once again  salivating at the thought of my Homer...PeterG

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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
Och! Brutal. Prayers for a speedy continued recovery and safe riding.

With abadnon,
Patrick

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:55:30 AM UTC-7, PeterG wrote:

 Deacon,
 I'm not riding right now. I took yet another spill riding when I should 
 have been reading this blog (a combination of bad weather  bad luck),..but 
 i'm almost healed once again  salivating at the thought of my 
 Homer...PeterG

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[RBW] Re: Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-21 Thread Bill Lindsay
3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain 
deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal, 
then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that 
this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the 
axle will move laterally?


Just study up on your catenary curves, and you'll be covered.  Wikipedia, 
Wolfram MathWorld.  Lots of places.  

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[RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread Bill Lindsay
If you want to try out a M/L Rawland rSogn or a 56cm Bombadil, and are in 
the Bay Area, you can look me up.  I'm in El Cerrito.

Used rSogn's are not that uncommon.  Visit the Rawland Google group 
periodically and you'll get a chance eventually.  Bombas are a lot less 
common out there.  If it were me and I wanted a 650B monster cross or a 
650B adventure touring bike, I'd probably talk with the Soulcraft folks and 
see what they could come up with for me.  

If a Christmas elf came and replaced my rSogn with a 54cm Hunqapillar and 
my Bombadil with a 58cm Atlantis, I would do just fine.  

Bill Lindsay



On Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:45:58 AM UTC-8, MobileBill wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of choice 
 now for mountain biking. 
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
 Hunq or a Bombadil. 
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.


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Re: [RBW] A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
I understand the appeal of 650B as a way to increase clearance for tires on 
an existing frame. What's the appeal for a 650B specific frame?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:42:04 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'd go further and say that I would like to see 650B available on their 
 country bikes (Hillbornes  Hilsens) like Salukis and Bleriots used to be. 
  650B is such a great wheel, but if I wanted it in my size ~60cm frame, I 
 have to go custom, which just isn't happening. Hence my going outside the 
 fold to buy a Salsa recently. That's money that I would be much happier 
 buying a Rivendell with, but no such luck. Always keeping my eyes open for 
 a used Saluki, but they are few and far between. So yeah, need more 650B 
 love out there!

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 6:45 AM, MobileBill zeusa...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of 
 choice now for mountain biking. 
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
 Hunq or a Bombadil. 
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.

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Re: [RBW] A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread cyclotourist
One word: Hetres.

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 8:53 AM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 I understand the appeal of 650B as a way to increase clearance for tires
 on an existing frame. What's the appeal for a 650B specific frame?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:42:04 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.comwrote:

 I'd go further and say that I would like to see 650B available on their
 country bikes (Hillbornes  Hilsens) like Salukis and Bleriots used to be.
  650B is such a great wheel, but if I wanted it in my size ~60cm frame, I
 have to go custom, which just isn't happening. Hence my going outside the
 fold to buy a Salsa recently. That's money that I would be much happier
 buying a Rivendell with, but no such luck. Always keeping my eyes open for
 a used Saluki, but they are few and far between. So yeah, need more 650B
 love out there!

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 6:45 AM, MobileBill zeusa...@gmail.com wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of
 choice now for mountain biking.
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a
 Hunq or a Bombadil.
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to
 do field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades.
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.

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[RBW] Re: New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-21 Thread C.J. Filip
Yes, still impatiently waiting on this.

On Friday, December 20, 2013 12:46:04 PM UTC-8, Mike Schiller wrote:

 I wish Mark's other project rack (the HUB area rack) would be sooner than 
 later too.   Seems like it's been forever.

 ~mike


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[RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread C.J. Filip
S, you're making 60-62cm Saluki owners hold on tighter to their now 
unobtainable non-custom bikes!

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:45:58 AM UTC-8, MobileBill wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of choice 
 now for mountain biking. 
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
 Hunq or a Bombadil. 
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.


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[RBW] WTB Nitto Bullmoose bars

2013-12-21 Thread Michael Williams
Hey group,   Does anyone have a set of Bullmoose bars they are looking to sell? 
  Just want to give them a try.   Thanks in advance.   -Mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread cyclotourist
Those old things?

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 9:37 AM, C.J. Filip c.j.fi...@hotmail.com wrote:

 S, you're making 60-62cm Saluki owners hold on tighter to their now
 unobtainable non-custom bikes!


 On Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:45:58 AM UTC-8, MobileBill wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of
 choice now for mountain biking.
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a
 Hunq or a Bombadil.
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades.
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.

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[RBW] FS: Noodle Bar and Tektro TRP RRL SR Brake Levers - Silver Drilled Alloy - Gum Hoods

2013-12-21 Thread Addison Wilhite
Pictured below:

I built my Gunnar Sport with these but the hand position/combo didn't work
for me.  They were on the bike for 2-3 months.   Was thinking to sell them
as a package for $110 total including shipping to the lower 48.  Using
Riv's measurements these are 41 cm bars (center of curve to center of
curve).  At the drops they are 42 ctc.

Thanks!

http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/10/it-rides-like-buttah-my-new-gunnar-sport.html


Addison Wilhite, M.A.

Academy of Arts, Careers and
Technologyhttp://www.washoecountyschools.org/aact/


*“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

Educator: Professional Portfolio http://addisonwilhite.blogspot.com/

Blogger: Reno Rambler http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/

Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
Advisory Committeehttp://www.rtcwashoe.com/public-transportation-22-124.html

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[RBW] 3 bikes including a 68 cm Quickbeam on eBay (not mine)

2013-12-21 Thread Tom Harrop
Hello all,

No personal connection, but the link to this eBay 
auctionhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Tall-Huge-Big-XXL-XXXL-Rivendell-Panasonic-Cannondale-/151189654884?pt=US_Bicycles_Frameshash=item23339b0d64for
 three bikes, including a 68 cm QB, was posted to the Large Bicycles 
list. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

Hope everyone has a nice break, if you're having one.

Tom

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[RBW] Re: FS: Noodle Bar and Tektro TRP RRL SR Brake Levers - Silver Drilled Alloy - Gum Hoods

2013-12-21 Thread Michael Hechmer
Sorry they didn't work out for you.  I have them on my Saluki and 
absolutely love them.
Michael

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 1:32:51 PM UTC-5, Addison wrote:

 Pictured below:

 I built my Gunnar Sport with these but the hand position/combo didn't work 
 for me.  They were on the bike for 2-3 months.   Was thinking to sell them 
 as a package for $110 total including shipping to the lower 48.  Using 
 Riv's measurements these are 41 cm bars (center of curve to center of 
 curve).  At the drops they are 42 ctc.  

 Thanks!


 http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/10/it-rides-like-buttah-my-new-gunnar-sport.html


 Addison Wilhite, M.A. 

 Academy of Arts, Careers and 
 Technologyhttp://www.washoecountyschools.org/aact/
  

 *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

 Educator: Professional Portfolio http://addisonwilhite.blogspot.com/

 Blogger: Reno Rambler http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/ 

 Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian 
 Advisory Committeehttp://www.rtcwashoe.com/public-transportation-22-124.html

 

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[RBW] Re: Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-21 Thread Philip Williamson
I love that you filed away the dropout slot. It seems so much cheaper, 
easier, and more immediate than having someone move them. I always wondered 
why you had 17/19 dingles instead of 17/21s. 
I was a big obsessor over gear inches when all I rode was fixed. Now that 
I've built up another geared bike, I have a handwritten chart of possible 
big rings and all their gear combinations. (I think I'm going to knock the 
48 down to a 44).

Philip
www.biketinker.com


On Friday, December 20, 2013 4:50:50 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the 
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave 
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos, 
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the 
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of 
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19 
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is the 
 perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am 
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning the 
 dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much fretting 
 and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a flat file 
 to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta 
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in 
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even 
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain 
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend 
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to 
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99, 
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got 
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the 
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?); 
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require 
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99 
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up 
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts 
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very 
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as 
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2 
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run, 
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one 
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of 
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain 
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal, 
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that 
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the 
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with 
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial 
 esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
 -- 
 *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!*
 Certified Resume Writer
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patric...@resumespecialties.com javascript:
 http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/

 Albuquerque, NM
  

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[RBW] Re: Bridgestone motorcycle

2013-12-21 Thread George Millwood
This is the era when I started motorcycling.  Bridgestone was a very 
serious motorcycle company with a 350 twin (350 GTR) that was the fastest 
motorcycle you could buy.  They were the best Japanese motorcycle on the 
market at the time.  IMO far better than Honda or Yamaha.  Only the Suzuki 
Hustler came close.  The rumour was that they gave up on the motorcycles as 
they were selling to many tyres to the other motorcycle companies and 
didn't want to cruel a growing market.  But who knows?  I had a BSA 650 and 
the Bridgestone 350 GTR could beat me out on the Cotter Road any Friday 
night.

The Cotter Road is the road that snakes out through the hills to the Cotter 
Dam near Canberra, the capital of Australia where I grew up.  Every Friday 
night, the local motorcycle riders would congregate on the forecourt of a 
motor car dealer near the beginning of this road and indulge in friendly 
competition up and down the road long into the night.  It was a challenging 
ride and it soon sorted out who could ride and what worked.  The local 
Police left us alone as we weren't 'hooning' around town and bothering them.

Now that you've indulged my little bit of nostalgia I will go take the 
Atlantis for a ride on what is shaping up as a glorious day. 

George Millwood Wollongong Australia 07;26
  

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Re: [RBW] Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-21 Thread Eric Daume
Add one chain link = 1/2 of axle movement.

Add one tooth = 1/8 of axle movement.

See Sheldon, of course:

http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos,
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is the
 perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning the
 dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much fretting
 and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a flat file
 to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99,
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?);
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run,
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal,
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial
 esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
 --
 *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!*
 Certified Resume Writer
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
 http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/

 Albuquerque, NM

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[RBW] Re: Grant-ish Fix?

2013-12-21 Thread Brian Campbell
Not bad ! To receive full credit, you will have to work in some twine, 
shellac and bar tape stubs.

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 4:19:56 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 I MacGyvered this fix for a broken fender bracket during today's ride. I 
 think Grant would approve. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant-ish Fix?

2013-12-21 Thread Eric Norris
And perhaps a zip tie or two?

--Eric

On Dec 21, 2013, at 1:46 PM, Brian Campbell bdcampbel...@gmail.com wrote:

 Not bad ! To receive full credit, you will have to work in some twine, 
 shellac and bar tape stubs.
 
 On Saturday, December 21, 2013 4:19:56 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
 I MacGyvered this fix for a broken fender bracket during today's ride. I 
 think Grant would approve. 
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Grant-ish Fix?

2013-12-21 Thread Jim Bronson
I like the way your brake cable loops back and rests in the hex bolt.  But
what is that pulley just below the corner of the seat tube and top tube?  A
travel agent for Vbrakes?  The brakes look like regular cantis though.

On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Eric Norris wrote:

 I MacGyvered this fix for a broken fender bracket during today's ride. I
 think Grant would approve.



-- 
Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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Re: [RBW] Grant-ish Fix?

2013-12-21 Thread Eric Norris
The pulley carries the shift cable to a Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub. You can see 
the same setup on my 1960s Raleigh Superbe:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176895@N03/6238794401/lightbox/?q=raleighw=35176895@N03

--Eric

On Dec 21, 2013, at 2:09 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I like the way your brake cable loops back and rests in the hex bolt.  But 
 what is that pulley just below the corner of the seat tube and top tube?  A 
 travel agent for Vbrakes?  The brakes look like regular cantis though.
 
 On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Eric Norris wrote:
 I MacGyvered this fix for a broken fender bracket during today's ride. I 
 think Grant would approve.
 
 
 
 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
 
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Re: [RBW] 3 bikes including a 68 cm Quickbeam on eBay (not mine)

2013-12-21 Thread Jim Bronson
Where is this Large Bicycles List that you speak of?

Searched Google but it wasn't in the first two pages of results.

On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Hello all,

 No personal connection, but the link to this eBay 
 auctionhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Tall-Huge-Big-XXL-XXXL-Rivendell-Panasonic-Cannondale-/151189654884?pt=US_Bicycles_Frameshash=item23339b0d64for
  three bikes, including a 68 cm QB, was posted to the Large Bicycles
 list. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

 Hope everyone has a nice break, if you're having one.

 Tom

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[RBW] Off-road excursion, not intentional

2013-12-21 Thread Jim Bronson
Why is it that when you get too close to the right edge of the road, it's
hard to pull it back?

I had a little brief off road excursion on one of my regular routes
yesterday.  I was too close to the edge, and it just started going over, so
I went with it rather than fight it.  Thankfully the ditch was smooth and
grassy, and the beer bottle I ran over didn't break.  I was able to compose
myself and pull back on the road without damage to man or machine.  But it
could have been much worse had conditions been different.  I was probably
going around 20 at the time.

Ok - let's not do that again anytime soon :)


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[RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread Chris Lampe 2
Just because I like playing around with BikeCad and I'm a fan of the 
Hunqapillar, here's a rendering of a 54cm Hunq with 650B x 50mm tires.  

http://www.bikecad.ca/applet?model=1384391824727

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:45:58 AM UTC-6, MobileBill wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of choice 
 now for mountain biking. 
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
 Hunq or a Bombadil. 
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.


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Re: [RBW] New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-21 Thread Jim Bronson
The Sam has an up sloping top tube so it's supposed to fit taller folks
better than say a 64 Atlantis.

I'm 67' with a 99 PBH and when I called Riv to talk bikes they said it
would work well for me.  (I decided to convert my existing bike to 650b
instead of acquiring a new frame)

On Friday, December 20, 2013, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I don't believe they offer the Sam Hillborne in 68cm.  The Sam only takes
 us up to 96cm PBH.  ~100cm PBH folks and taller are forced to go Hilsen
 nowadays.

 On Friday, December 20, 2013 2:45:40 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote:

 Where is the 68 cm Sam?


 On Friday, December 20, 2013, dougP wrote:

 My name is Doug  I have a serious luggage rack problem.now, I think
 I need another one.

 In today's BLUG post, check out the rear rack on the 51 cm Sam in the
 last photo.  It's got the lower pannier mounting bars that allow easy
 access to the top platform with panniers attached.  It looks like the front
 hoop is either really low or gone, so there is more useful area on the
 platform.  This really looks like a good evolution.  If the lower mounts
 are nice long tabs that can be cut to fit, one of these may wind up on the
 mini-Lantis.

 This is the rack that's been mentioned somewhere (here? BLUG?) as one of
 Mark's projects.  I recall something about Rivendell wanting to replace the
 2 different sizes of Big Back Rack with a single version, which makes a lot
 of sense.  This looks like it.  ETA from Nitto is soon.

 dougP

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Re: [RBW] 3 bikes including a 68 cm Quickbeam on eBay (not mine)

2013-12-21 Thread Curtis McKenzie
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tall-Huge-Big-XXL-XXXL-Rivendell-Panasonic-Cannondale-/151189654884?pt=US_Bicycles_Frameshash=item23339b0d64

On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where is this Large Bicycles List that you speak of?

 Searched Google but it wasn't in the first two pages of results.

 On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Hello all,

 No personal connection, but the link to this eBay 
 auctionhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Tall-Huge-Big-XXL-XXXL-Rivendell-Panasonic-Cannondale-/151189654884?pt=US_Bicycles_Frameshash=item23339b0d64for
  three bikes, including a 68 cm QB, was posted to the Large Bicycles
 list. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

 Hope everyone has a nice break, if you're having one.

 Tom

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Re: [RBW] New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-21 Thread Curtis McKenzie
Jim,

You have my dimensions.  I ride a 67 Hilsen and really like the bike.


On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Jim Bronson wrote:

 The Sam has an up sloping top tube so it's supposed to fit taller folks
 better than say a 64 Atlantis.

 I'm 67' with a 99 PBH and when I called Riv to talk bikes they said it
 would work well for me.  (I decided to convert my existing bike to 650b
 instead of acquiring a new frame)

 On Friday, December 20, 2013, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I don't believe they offer the Sam Hillborne in 68cm.  The Sam only takes
 us up to 96cm PBH.  ~100cm PBH folks and taller are forced to go Hilsen
 nowadays.

 On Friday, December 20, 2013 2:45:40 PM UTC-8, Curtis wrote:

 Where is the 68 cm Sam?


 On Friday, December 20, 2013, dougP wrote:

 My name is Doug  I have a serious luggage rack problem.now, I
 think I need another one.

 In today's BLUG post, check out the rear rack on the 51 cm Sam in the
 last photo.  It's got the lower pannier mounting bars that allow easy
 access to the top platform with panniers attached.  It looks like the front
 hoop is either really low or gone, so there is more useful area on the
 platform.  This really looks like a good evolution.  If the lower mounts
 are nice long tabs that can be cut to fit, one of these may wind up on the
 mini-Lantis.

 This is the rack that's been mentioned somewhere (here? BLUG?) as one
 of Mark's projects.  I recall something about Rivendell wanting to replace
 the 2 different sizes of Big Back Rack with a single version, which makes a
 lot of sense.  This looks like it.  ETA from Nitto is soon.

 dougP

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam or Simple One for my needs?

2013-12-21 Thread Cyclofiend Jim
Hey there Michael - 

The point is kinda moot, unless you have someone up the street who is 
selling both.

The SimpleOne is the Taiwan built model.  The Quickbeams were built by 
Panasonic. There were some subtle tweaks throughout the model runs, some of 
which can be referenced via the Quickbeam page here  - 

http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/quickbeam

If you are looking for sidepulls (or centerpulls), then you are seeking the 
SimpleOne.  All stock Quickbeams were canti-post framesets.

For your size requirements, you are probably looking for the 56, though 
with your pbh, I'd lean towards the 58.  

As far as gearing, neither were specifically single speeds, but rather 
derailleur-less designs.  Specific gearing suggestions has a lot to do with 
your riding style.  I tend to run a higher-than-most fixed ratio, but then 
stock gearing for the coastable setup, which was 40/32 with an 18T 
freewheel.  There are stacked freewheel options, as well as stacked fixed 
sprocket setups, which give you two options per side. 

I'd just try the stock gearing for a while.  You'll find it changes the way 
you ride - forces you to develop a few gearing options. 

Now... there is three basic threads of interest and opinions, blue sky 
wish list and hey, where'd the 'Beam go? for the next run of 'Beam-Ones 
- 
Rivendell SimpleBeam - New Model - Call for the Seriously Interested
*https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/sKo8E4qO-jI*

SimpleQuickOneBeam Project - Blue Sky Features - What would you like to see?
*https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/ZeaMJ7yLnUk*

Why no more Quickbeam/ SimpleOne? (The thread which spurred the original 
conversation)
*https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/QhzO4CFyz1U*

Hope that helps.

Jim / cyclofiend.com


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Re: [RBW] 3 bikes including a 68 cm Quickbeam on eBay (not mine)

2013-12-21 Thread Jim Bronson
I'd be interested in the Panasonic, the other two not so much.

On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Curtis McKenzie wrote:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tall-Huge-Big-XXL-XXXL-Rivendell-Panasonic-Cannondale-/151189654884?pt=US_Bicycles_Frameshash=item23339b0d64

 On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where is this Large Bicycles List that you speak of?

 Searched Google but it wasn't in the first two pages of results.

 On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Hello all,

 No personal connection, but the link to this eBay 
 auctionhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Tall-Huge-Big-XXL-XXXL-Rivendell-Panasonic-Cannondale-/151189654884?pt=US_Bicycles_Frameshash=item23339b0d64for
  three bikes, including a 68 cm QB, was posted to the Large Bicycles
 list. Sorry if this is a duplicate.

 Hope everyone has a nice break, if you're having one.

 Tom

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[RBW] Re: FS: Grip King, VO Grand Cru Cranks, RBW Randi Jo hat, Red Wing 875, Pendleton Wool Shirt...

2013-12-21 Thread jinxed
To respond, yes, shipping is included.

Also, I found the origin8 BB to go with the cranks. (sealed bearing JB 
house brand)

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[RBW] Schmidt Lighting System FS

2013-12-21 Thread Eric Norris
Offered for sale is a complete lighting system for your 700C-sized road bike. 
Used but in excellent condition.

Included are a front wheel built on a Schmidt Nabendynamo front hub and a 
Schmidt Edelux headlight. This is a super-bright and dependable lighting 
system, probably the most popular dynamo-based system among randonneurs, who 
value and need excellent nighttime illumination.

A few specs:

Hub generates 6 volts/3 watts, sufficient for driving a front and rear light. 
Can also be used with aftermarket devices to charge your iPhone, Garmin, etc., 
during the day.
Velocity Aerohead rim, 32 spokes (14-guage straight, not butted), built by Myke 
B at VeloCity. 
Rim and spokes have one season of riding on them. Wheel is round and true.
Spade connectors on the hub will work with all dynamo-powered lights that use a 
6-volt system.
Skewer for the front hub is not included.
Headlight is a Schmidt Edelux, with on/off/automatic sensor control. 
Wire is 28 inches long, which will reach from the hub to the handlebars on all 
but the tallest bikes. 
Connectors were soldered on and sealed with heat shrink tubing.
Comes with the handlebar mount shown in the photos--my own design, based on 
several bits and pieces from my parts drawer.

Photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy/sets/72157638893932755/ 

Prices:

$300 for the entire setup (+ $30 shipping or FREE pickup in Davis, CA)
$140 for the headlight alone (+ $6 shipping or FREE pickup in Davis, CA)
$175 for the front wheel alone (+ $30 shipping or FREE pickup in Davis, CA)

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org
Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @campyonlyguy

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[RBW] Re: Off-road excursion, not intentional

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
I did much the same on yesterday's pre-dawn ride. without daylight, I could 
distinguish between traction-sand spread during our last snow and the edge. 
The shoulder got suddenly narrower and I was off into the well rutted dirt. 
I stopped, walked my bike back onto asphalt, and went on my way. It is 
disconcerting. Glad you are OK!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 3:51:10 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Why is it that when you get too close to the right edge of the road, it's 
 hard to pull it back?

 I had a little brief off road excursion on one of my regular routes 
 yesterday.  I was too close to the edge, and it just started going over, so 
 I went with it rather than fight it.  Thankfully the ditch was smooth and 
 grassy, and the beer bottle I ran over didn't break.  I was able to compose 
 myself and pull back on the road without damage to man or machine.  But it 
 could have been much worse had conditions been different.  I was probably 
 going around 20 at the time.

 Ok - let's not do that again anytime soon :)


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[RBW] Re: New Nitto Rear rack

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
Neeto! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, December 20, 2013 1:02:34 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:

 My name is Doug  I have a serious luggage rack problem.now, I think I 
 need another one.

 In today's BLUG post, check out the rear rack on the 51 cm Sam in the last 
 photo.  It's got the lower pannier mounting bars that allow easy access to 
 the top platform with panniers attached.  It looks like the front hoop is 
 either really low or gone, so there is more useful area on the platform.  
 This really looks like a good evolution.  If the lower mounts are nice long 
 tabs that can be cut to fit, one of these may wind up on the mini-Lantis.

 This is the rack that's been mentioned somewhere (here? BLUG?) as one of 
 Mark's projects.  I recall something about Rivendell wanting to replace the 
 2 different sizes of Big Back Rack with a single version, which makes a lot 
 of sense.  This looks like it.  ETA from Nitto is soon.  

 dougP


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[RBW] Re: Surly-Riv-rivalry?

2013-12-21 Thread jinxed
You know Frank...if you ever want to adopt another kid...I'm generally 
pretty clean, mind my manners and don't eat much. ;)

I LOVE this post. It's such a good mode of fun to aspire to. My daughter 
has been biking with me in some form since she was born 6 years ago. If she 
continues the interest like your boys, I'll consider my parenting a success!

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Re: [RBW] Off-road excursion, not intentional

2013-12-21 Thread Steven Frederick
Assuming that isn't a rhetorical question, I think it's a combination of
target avoidance fixation and that countersteer thing, where you first have
to go a bit to the right before you can swerve left.  I was a bit
squirrelly early in my road riding career and popped off the edge of the
pavement on a number of occasions.  Fortunately my mountain biking
experience kept me from crashing as a result of any of these off road
excursions...

Once on a century in southern Oregon I went down into a grassy ditch,
rolled along it for a few yards and popped up onto a driveway and back onto
the road.  The group I was with was agog, but my buddy who I'd ridden with
quite a bit said don't worry, he's always doing shit like that.  B-)

Getting off a too small, twitchy Trek aluminum road bike onto a properly
sized Riv was a big help in keeping me on the straight and narrow.  That
and practice.

Steve


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 5:51 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Why is it that when you get too close to the right edge of the road, it's
 hard to pull it back?

 I had a little brief off road excursion on one of my regular routes
 yesterday.  I was too close to the edge, and it just started going over, so
 I went with it rather than fight it.  Thankfully the ditch was smooth and
 grassy, and the beer bottle I ran over didn't break.  I was able to compose
 myself and pull back on the road without damage to man or machine.  But it
 could have been much worse had conditions been different.  I was probably
 going around 20 at the time.

 Ok - let's not do that again anytime soon :)


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Re: [RBW] Off-road excursion, not intentional

2013-12-21 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 12/21/2013 05:51 PM, Jim Bronson wrote:
Why is it that when you get too close to the right edge of the road, 
it's hard to pull it back?


Because to go left you need to cut the wheel a bit to the right to 
initiate the lean.  When you're just at the right edge you can't help 
but be aware there isn't room to do that.




I had a little brief off road excursion on one of my regular routes 
yesterday.  I was too close to the edge, and it just started going 
over, so I went with it rather than fight it.  Thankfully the ditch 
was smooth and grassy, and the beer bottle I ran over didn't break.  I 
was able to compose myself and pull back on the road without damage to 
man or machine.  But it could have been much worse had conditions been 
different.  I was probably going around 20 at the time.


Definitely did the right thing.  If you try to ride back onto the 
pavement, unless you can arrange to come at it at almost a right angle, 
you are almost certainly going to crash.





Ok - let's not do that again anytime soon :)


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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendells BBH Opening party and overnight.

2013-12-21 Thread Christopher Chen
I'm still comin' down from that great overnight last weekend.

I'm not the kind of guy for big parties, but the BBH event was a lot of
fun, and I didn't spend too much money. I was sent on a secret mission,
so after dispatching of that, I mostly hung out and took pictures of
hatchets and Manny's recent dental work.

The ride up Diablo was pretty spectacular--we had a nearly full moon, so
after passing the closed park gate, the headlights quickly shut off and we
rode by the light of the moon. The climb is significant; it must've taken
up over two hours to get to the campsite. I miss the grasses and oak trees
of Northern California, even in the dark.

Manny  Tommy cooked up a fantastic mac  cheese and hot dog dinner. Here's
another Manny Rule:

Manny Food Rule #1: There is never enough cheese, especially if you're
asking the lady whose job it is to SELL you the cheese if you have enough
cheese. See: VESTED INTERESTS

Manny Food Rule #2: Actually, there's enough cheese, but we forgot the
butter.

The temperatures slowly dropped off over the night and we retired to our
shelters. I set the alarm to give us enough time for sunrise. My hammock-fu
was lacking that night--I didn't set it taut enough so there was too much
give, but all in all not bad.

I woke up the crew by playing What is Love, a popular but dreadful dance
hit from the 90s. There's no way anyone is gonna sleep through that. I
quickly realized I had set my alarm assuming sunrise times in Portland, but
I was 900km south, and the sun rises 40 minutes earlier. We had a 250m
climb ahead of us and we caught the sunrise from an intermediate ridge, I
think called Devil's Elbow.

There's a fantastic WPA era observation tower at the summit, where we set
up coffee brewing and took in the changing view. Lovely to see the shadow
of Diablo cast over the central valley.

We had a quick and spirited descent down to the campsite, where we packed
up and took fire roads and and singletrack towards Walnut Creek and Pho.
There were two harrowing descents in a row, where everyone except Manny
walked down part. Also, Koi on Mount Diablo?!

We finished the ride through a quick jaunt along old irrigation ditches,
and a nice post-ride lunch at the Pho restaurant next to RBW World HQ.

Pictures prove we lived:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/sets/72157638896337604/

cc

PS baby don't hurt me no more


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 7:21 AM, Shoji Takahashi
shoji.takaha...@gmail.comwrote:

 You guys! Lots of fun looking at your pics, Manny. This one looks like a
 movie story board... put it together now: World Premiere at BBH next year.
 Maybe Jay R. would do it?



 On Monday, December 16, 2013 8:33:31 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Beautiful!

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Sunday, December 15, 2013 10:06:56 PM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:

 More of a welcome back ride for good old riding buddy Tommy.

 Glad to have him back feels like he never left.

 Tommy and I were back to our old shenanigans by racing towards the
 ranger station of Mt.Diablo to grab the campground pass before they closed.
 We get there right on time watching the rangers were closing the gates to
 get the last minute campground.
 Already a good start.

 We roll toward Rivendell BBH semi-early with the party already starting.
 Chris was representing Portland by was there early chatting it up with
 Jared who had the duty to watch bikes.

 Pat rolled up making it four. Ely said he would make it but he was
 running on Filipino time. So he join in right before we left. He was late
 finishing up a rear back for that night's overnight.

 Great seeing old friends and meeting new friends.
 Makes me incredibly grateful and lucky to have met  and ride with so
 many folks just in the past year.

 Cheese and pickles were there. I added my cupcakes which seemed like an
 affront to the Paleo-spread. But the ladyfriend told me I had to bring them
 to the Rivendell Shindig.

 Lots of you-have-to-go-to-the-physical-store-front items. Nice wool
 beanies and other nick-nacks including old fashion Hobby horses and yo-yos.
 The real beauty of the BBH store was in the rear where beautiful hatchet
 wall mount  that really puts the whole shop together.

 The raffle was a blast like true Rivendell Raffle tradition one of the
 attendee's young child picked the winners.
 To my dismay the other Acosta brother was picked to win one of the
 prizes, a Hatchet!
 Not bad for coming 5 minutes prior to the start of the raffle.

 We head out with a huge group from downtown Walnut Creek. Sean, Will and
 Mike leading the way to their own night time ride of Shell Ridge. We passed
 the closed gates of Diablo and ride the rest of the ride up to the
 campgrounds with only the Moon lightning our way to the top.

 When we get to camp we get to business with the food.

 What's on the menu? Gourmet Mac and Cheese with some nice aged cheddar
 and smokey gouda with some spicy sausage with a hint of wood chips.

 Despite the coldish weather we had 

[RBW] Re: Quickbeam or Simple One for my needs?

2013-12-21 Thread ted
Though initially intended to have side or center pull brakes as it turned out, 
due to confusion with the rear brake bridge, the SimpleOnes have cantilever 
brakes. I think the only non cosmetic differences between the various 
SimpleBeem frames are the kickstand plate and some additional rack mount braze 
one of the later runs.
If you want one I would suggest buying whatever variant you can find in your 
size, because I don't think you will have enough opportunities to make being 
picky work.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendells BBH Opening party and overnight.

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
Fantastic!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Sunday, December 15, 2013 10:06:56 PM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:

 More of a welcome back ride for good old riding buddy Tommy.

 Glad to have him back feels like he never left.

 Tommy and I were back to our old shenanigans by racing towards the ranger 
 station of Mt.Diablo to grab the campground pass before they closed. We get 
 there right on time watching the rangers were closing the gates to get the 
 last minute campground. 
 Already a good start.

 We roll toward Rivendell BBH semi-early with the party already starting. 
 Chris was representing Portland by was there early chatting it up with 
 Jared who had the duty to watch bikes.

 Pat rolled up making it four. Ely said he would make it but he was running 
 on Filipino time. So he join in right before we left. He was late finishing 
 up a rear back for that night's overnight.

 Great seeing old friends and meeting new friends. 
 Makes me incredibly grateful and lucky to have met  and ride with so many 
 folks just in the past year. 

 Cheese and pickles were there. I added my cupcakes which seemed like an 
 affront to the Paleo-spread. But the ladyfriend told me I had to bring them 
 to the Rivendell Shindig. 

 Lots of you-have-to-go-to-the-physical-store-front items. Nice wool 
 beanies and other nick-nacks including old fashion Hobby horses and yo-yos. 
 The real beauty of the BBH store was in the rear where beautiful hatchet 
 wall mount  that really puts the whole shop together.

 The raffle was a blast like true Rivendell Raffle tradition one of the 
 attendee's young child picked the winners. 
 To my dismay the other Acosta brother was picked to win one of the prizes, 
 a Hatchet!
 Not bad for coming 5 minutes prior to the start of the raffle.

 We head out with a huge group from downtown Walnut Creek. Sean, Will and 
 Mike leading the way to their own night time ride of Shell Ridge. We passed 
 the closed gates of Diablo and ride the rest of the ride up to the 
 campgrounds with only the Moon lightning our way to the top. 

 When we get to camp we get to business with the food. 

 What's on the menu? Gourmet Mac and Cheese with some nice aged cheddar and 
 smokey gouda with some spicy sausage with a hint of wood chips.

 Despite the coldish weather we had it was quite warm at the top we woke up 
 a tad bit early to do some sunrise coffee at the top of Diablo. The descent 
 was lovely. Dirt, frost, sand, mud and dry creek crossings.
 Food was We finished with some Pho.
 Lovely time to spend an overnight.

 Picture proves that hatchets always makes a party:
 http://flic.kr/s/aHsjP49mDP

 -Manny  I left my cupcake holder, the Ladyfriend is going to be mad. 
 Acosta





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Re: [RBW] Off-road excursion, not intentional

2013-12-21 Thread Patrick Moore
Not recent, thank God, but pretty spectacular or potentially spectacular:

1. Left edge, but the same; this circa 1972: taking the long (20 instead of
7 miles) route to school, coming fast down a hill with a rightward curve (I
on the left as law in ex-British colonies). Attention wandered, front tire
went onto the dirt verge, I panicked, grabbed the *front* brake, and did a
very quick 180 -- a vertical one. The entire compound of me-and-bke flipped
vertically without any intervening contact with Nother Earth until the rear
wheel contacted what must have been the edge of the asphalt (can't say
pavement as this term in British means sidewalk, and there was no
sidewalk) that stood above the dirt verge about 2. I was wholly unscathed
(no damned cycling kit, just jeans, t-shirt, Safari Boots, and a lot of
luck) -- not even road rash or scratches on my hands, but the flip brought
the bike down hard on the rear wheel and put a big V of a dent in it.

There was a house nearby, so I went and asked the major
domo/butler/footman/cook/sweeper/whatever to use the phone, which he
permitted (the owners, probably Brits, were out). Reliable Old Mom brought
the Datsun 1600 and took me the rest of the way to school.

2. Circa 1991: bombing at well over 20 mph down Sara Road here in Rio
Rancho, NM on a cold day after a heavy snowfall, my rear wheel got into the
remnants of sand spread by the City. Not a 2-wheel drift, but the back
swung out a good 30* before I, or rather Luck or Providence, put it back on
clean asphalt, where it caught and jerked me back into a manageable line.

3. Just 2-3 years ago, at 30+ down a very steep hill at a tightish curve on
the Fargo with 60+ Big Apples at very low pressures, I decided to trust the
Force and ignore my ignominious downhill handling skills. At the apex of
the turn, the rear sidewall decided to flex and the rear jerked suddenly to
the right; again, Fate/Fortune/Providence zapped me with just the right
body english and I was saved from what could have been a very serious
accident indeed (I was very, very close to hitting the curb/kerb at 30-35
mph.)


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 3:51 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Why is it that when you get too close to the right edge of the road, it's
 hard to pull it back?

 I had a little brief off road excursion on one of my regular routes
 yesterday.  I was too close to the edge, and it just started going over, so
 I went with it rather than fight it.  Thankfully the ditch was smooth and
 grassy, and the beer bottle I ran over didn't break.  I was able to compose
 myself and pull back on the road without damage to man or machine.  But it
 could have been much worse had conditions been different.  I was probably
 going around 20 at the time.

 Ok - let's not do that again anytime soon :)


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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam or Simple One for my needs?

2013-12-21 Thread cyclotourist
I heartily encourage everyone to get a Simple Beam every chance I get. Just
great bikes. And usually more than one size will fit you, although of
course one will be more optimum than the other. I've had both a 60cm and a
62cm and both were great!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 4:17 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:

 Though initially intended to have side or center pull brakes as it turned
 out, due to confusion with the rear brake bridge, the SimpleOnes have
 cantilever brakes. I think the only non cosmetic differences between the
 various SimpleBeem frames are the kickstand plate and some additional rack
 mount braze one of the later runs.
 If you want one I would suggest buying whatever variant you can find in
 your size, because I don't think you will have enough opportunities to make
 being picky work.

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Re: [RBW] Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-21 Thread Patrick Moore
That I know, but the intricacies and esoterica of converting chain sag to
axle movement is beyond me (thanks Bill for the catenary curve formulae,
but they are to abstruse for me -- who learned and forgot and had once
again to learn and once again forgot the calculus).

At any rate, whatever the relationship, the factor is a huge one.

Just to be on the safe side, today I took the files and wore away a bit
more of the dropouts' rear parts. They now ought to be able to accommodate
a chain for its full lifespan.


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 1:27 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:

 Add one chain link = 1/2 of axle movement.

 Add one tooth = 1/8 of axle movement.

 See Sheldon, of course:

 http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conversion.html


 On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.comwrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos,
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is
 the perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning
 the dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much
 fretting and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a
 flat file to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99,
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?);
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run,
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal,
 then pull the axle back so that the chain is now horizontal (I know that
 this term is inexact), is there a formula that will tell me how much the
 axle will move laterally?

 (For Steve P.: Steve: it's *great* fun filing away energetically with
 crude hand tools at a $3,500 custom frame!)

 Patrick Moore, who would be at a total loss if he hadn't such trivial
 esoterica to fret about, in Burque, NM.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam or Simple One for my needs?

2013-12-21 Thread ted
Indeed. Two cm is not a lot, and ideal for most folks is probably between 
available sizes. So it makes sense more than one size would fit fine. My 
pbh is about 83 or 84 cm. I figured either 56 or 58 would be the right 
size. Keven agreed, then looked me up and down, paused, and said 56. It's 
worked out great, and I am glad I went with that size, but I'm pretty sure 
a 58 would work great too.

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 4:44:57 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I heartily encourage everyone to get a Simple Beam every chance I get. 
 Just great bikes. And usually more than one size will fit you, although of 
 course one will be more optimum than the other. I've had both a 60cm and a 
 62cm and both were great!

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 4:17 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:wrote:

 Though initially intended to have side or center pull brakes as it turned 
 out, due to confusion with the rear brake bridge, the SimpleOnes have 
 cantilever brakes. I think the only non cosmetic differences between the 
 various SimpleBeem frames are the kickstand plate and some additional rack 
 mount braze one of the later runs.
 If you want one I would suggest buying whatever variant you can find in 
 your size, because I don't think you will have enough opportunities to make 
 being picky work.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-21 Thread Patrick Moore
I didn't realize that Surly made a 17/21 (Tree Fort Bicycles has it for
$37). I had wanted a 17/20.

But being forced to limit myself to the 17/19, I found that the 19 gives a
gear (~63) that, really, is better for my purpose, which is a gear that is
low enough to help with loads up hills or against wind, or those days when
I am feeling shitty, but not so low that, when you reach a flat, you flail
away uselessly. The Dingle is nice because, even with full panniers, I can
stop, release the QR and shift the chain to the 19 without having the huge
hassle of removing and flipping the wheel.

(I use a 48 t ring and ~24.8  tires; the 17 gives me a 70 cruising gear,
the 19 a 63, the 20 would give a 60 gear, and the 21 a 56 gear.)

I wish Surley made a 18/21; I could put that on the flip side for a 66/56,
and have four gears: 70/66/63/56. Though at that point the reasonable
question would be, Why then are your riding a fixed gear bike? Still, for
what, for me constitutes a longer ride, say a 30 miler including the long
Tramway hill and perhaps an excursion off onto the very steep Tram road
proper, a 17/19 with a 21 on the flip side would be nice.

Segway (tm): You see photos from the '30s of Tour de France riders on the
dirt alpine roads with what are very obviously 3 or 4 speed freewheels on
their derailleur-less machines. IIRC, Lon Haldeman's custom Riv was
featured in a long-ago Reader; he crossed the Rockes sans derailleur with a
3-speed fw that he shifted by hand. (Tho' this list's Eric Norris rode over
the Rockies on a fixie, again IIRC.)


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 1:14 PM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 I love that you filed away the dropout slot. It seems so much cheaper,
 easier, and more immediate than having someone move them. I always wondered
 why you had 17/19 dingles instead of 17/21s.
 I was a big obsessor over gear inches when all I rode was fixed. Now that
 I've built up another geared bike, I have a handwritten chart of possible
 big rings and all their gear combinations. (I think I'm going to knock the
 48 down to a 44).

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com


 On Friday, December 20, 2013 4:50:50 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I've bitched and moaned on this list about the annoying position of the
 retrofit Campy 1010s on the '03 Curt (installed by local builder Dave
 Porter some 6-7 years ago), that, with my preferred ring-and-cog combos,
 leave the axle at the 1/2 or even the 3/5 point along the dropouts in the
 cruising cog, so that I am limited to another 2 teeth before I run out of
 dropout room. Since I lika-da-Dingle, this has limited me to a 17/19
 instead of the 17/20.

 (Tho' I found after grudgingly installing the 17/19 that the 19/63 is
 the perfect chugging-along gear for extended hills and headwinds when I am
 carrying a heavy load.)

 I talked to other local builder Chauncey Matthews about re-positioning
 the dropouts, but he was reluctant to undertake the job, so after much
 fretting and internal anguish, today I took big and small rattails and a
 flat file to them and laboriously filed them back by a couple of mm.

 Lo and behold, a very little horizontal distance takes up a heckuvalotta
 chain slack. The axle is now within a mm of the back-end of the dropout in
 the 48/17, and there is ample room for, not only a 20, but, I daresay, even
 a 22 or 23. Not that my mighty quads need such piddling gears.

 I may have to file the dropouts back another mm or so to take up chain
 slack as the chain stretches, but that should be no problem. The backend
 of the dropouts is noticeably thinner now, but there is ample metal to
 support the axle.

 I had to do the same thing to the '99 Joe gofast when I got it in '99,
 since I had -- thou fool! -- neglected to specify long dropouts and got
 Riv's then-current short horizontals. But the file did its work and the
 gofast can take a 5-tooth jump: I've installed a 20 t (or was it a 21?);
 the crusing 75 is a 46/15.

 All of this leading up to a couple of questions:

 1. How much linear stretch constitutes sufficient chain wear to require
 replacing the chain? (I use a Park tool, and I've found that, on the '99
 Joe, when I just begin to notice that I cannot any longer take up
 sufficient slack, the tool measures close to 100% worn. So the dropouts
 make up a kind of on-bike chain check setup.) It can't be more than a very
 few mm.

 2. Is it true, or is it false, that the lateral movement of the axle as
 you move it back and forth to accommodate smaller and bigger cogs, is 1/2
 the distance that would be required if the chain were a mere single run,
 instead of being the double run it is? My head can't wrap around this one
 enough to picture the results of looping the chain versus a single line of
 chain. (That question makes sense to me, buddy.)

 3. Is there a formula to convert linear axle movement to vertical chain
 deflection? That is: if I measure 1 3/4? of chain sag from the horizontal,
 then pull the axle back so that 

Re: [RBW] Re: Half link, NO! File, SI!

2013-12-21 Thread Patrick Moore
Forgot to ask: can you, please, tell us what your gearing is (rings and
cogs)?

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Re: [RBW] FS: Noodle Bar and Tektro TRP RRL SR Brake Levers - Silver Drilled Alloy - Gum Hoods

2013-12-21 Thread Patrick Moore
I have what I measured as the 42 cm c-c at hoods Noodles on my Ram, and
they are the best bars I've used after the even better Compass Maes
Parallel copies (37 cm at hoods, 41 cm at the ends of the hooks) on the two
customs. I used 46 cm Noodles for a while on two bikes (fixed 26er, Fargo)
but they felt too wide.


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 11:32 AM, Addison Wilhite
addisonwilh...@gmail.comwrote:

 Pictured below:

 I built my Gunnar Sport with these but the hand position/combo didn't work
 for me.  They were on the bike for 2-3 months.   Was thinking to sell them
 as a package for $110 total including shipping to the lower 48.  Using
 Riv's measurements these are 41 cm bars (center of curve to center of
 curve).  At the drops they are 42 ctc.

 Thanks!


 http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/10/it-rides-like-buttah-my-new-gunnar-sport.html


 Addison Wilhite, M.A.

 Academy of Arts, Careers and 
 Technologyhttp://www.washoecountyschools.org/aact/


 *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

 Educator: Professional Portfolio http://addisonwilhite.blogspot.com/

 Blogger: Reno Rambler http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/

 Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
 Advisory Committeehttp://www.rtcwashoe.com/public-transportation-22-124.html

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Re: [RBW] FS: Noodle Bar and Tektro TRP RRL SR Brake Levers - Silver Drilled Alloy - Gum Hoods

2013-12-21 Thread Patrick Moore
(Forgot to add that the Noodles, with their sweep-back, require a 1 cm
longer stem, or at least, I find they do.)


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 6:24 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have what I measured as the 42 cm c-c at hoods Noodles on my Ram, and
 they are the best bars I've used after the even better Compass Maes
 Parallel copies (37 cm at hoods, 41 cm at the ends of the hooks) on the two
 customs. I used 46 cm Noodles for a while on two bikes (fixed 26er, Fargo)
 but they felt too wide.


 On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 11:32 AM, Addison Wilhite 
 addisonwilh...@gmail.com wrote:

 Pictured below:

 I built my Gunnar Sport with these but the hand position/combo didn't
 work for me.  They were on the bike for 2-3 months.   Was thinking to sell
 them as a package for $110 total including shipping to the lower 48.  Using
 Riv's measurements these are 41 cm bars (center of curve to center of
 curve).  At the drops they are 42 ctc.

 Thanks!


 http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2012/10/it-rides-like-buttah-my-new-gunnar-sport.html


 Addison Wilhite, M.A.

 Academy of Arts, Careers and 
 Technologyhttp://www.washoecountyschools.org/aact/


 *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

 Educator: Professional Portfolio http://addisonwilhite.blogspot.com/

 Blogger: Reno Rambler http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/

 Bicycle Advocate: Regional Transportation Commission, Bicycle Pedestrian
 Advisory 
 Committeehttp://www.rtcwashoe.com/public-transportation-22-124.html

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[RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread Chris Lampe 2
Well, the Bikecad link goes to a different bike so I'll try a different 
route:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/85055386@N03/11488089173/

I actually think on the 54cm Hunq the 650B looks more proportional than the 
700c.   



On Saturday, December 21, 2013 9:44:18 AM UTC-6, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:

 Just because I like playing around with BikeCad and I'm a fan of the 
 Hunqapillar, here's a rendering of a 54cm Hunq with 650B x 50mm tires.  

 http://www.bikecad.ca/applet?model=1384391824727

 On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:45:58 AM UTC-6, MobileBill wrote:

 As many have noted on recent posts, 650B appears to be the wheel of 
 choice now for mountain biking. 
 So it feels odd to me that the companies that first demonstrated the 
 usefulness of 650B for mountain biking (Riv and Raw) don't now have a dog 
 in the hunt. Well, OK, the bomb is available as a custom, but I'd feel 
 guilty. And Raw continues to produce 650B, but with lightweight frames that 
 may not be suitable for some of the rougher tougher stuff we'd expect of a 
 Hunq or a Bombadil. 
 (My bikes are working bikes: I actually use my bikes to commute and to do 
 field work in wildlands, but the Saluki and Betty were obviously not 
 designed for the latter. I imagine it would be nice to have a bike designed 
 to  carry a significant load and handle deep sand and rocky roads and 
 moderately difficult downhills and long distance travel on pavement. Sort 
 of like a Hunq or a Bomb.)
 Maybe I should get a Hunq, but for my size, the 650B wheels just seem so 
 much more sensible and fitting and maneuverable, and it's what I'm used to 
 (on my Saluki and Betty), and the tires are now available in spades. 
 Your thoughts (or insider knowledge) on whether I should settle for 700 
 Hunq, or hold out for Riv or Raw to return to their roots, or look 
 elsewhere for a (used?) 650B heavy duty bike.



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[RBW] Re: Off-road excursion, not intentional

2013-12-21 Thread Jim Bronson
Oh, I rode it back on the pavement, but at a much slower speed.  It was a
really nice ditch, as far as ditches go.

Questionable decision, I know.

On Saturday, December 21, 2013, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 12/21/2013 05:51 PM, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Why is it that when you get too close to the right edge of the road, it's
 hard to pull it back?


 Because to go left you need to cut the wheel a bit to the right to
 initiate the lean.  When you're just at the right edge you can't help but
 be aware there isn't room to do that.


 I had a little brief off road excursion on one of my regular routes
 yesterday.  I was too close to the edge, and it just started going over, so
 I went with it rather than fight it.  Thankfully the ditch was smooth and
 grassy, and the beer bottle I ran over didn't break.  I was able to compose
 myself and pull back on the road without damage to man or machine.  But it
 could have been much worse had conditions been different.  I was probably
 going around 20 at the time.


 Definitely did the right thing.  If you try to ride back onto the
 pavement, unless you can arrange to come at it at almost a right angle, you
 are almost certainly going to crash.



 Ok - let's not do that again anytime soon :)


 --
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!


 Amen.

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[RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread Leslie
I've thought the same thing:  Riv doesn't have enough 650b bikes anymore...

I wouldn't be opposed to ordering a Hunq, but asking for the canti-studs to be 
lowered for 650b...

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Re: [RBW] Re: A hunq of a 650B?

2013-12-21 Thread Peter Morgano
+1
On Dec 21, 2013 8:45 PM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've thought the same thing:  Riv doesn't have enough 650b bikes anymore...

 I wouldn't be opposed to ordering a Hunq, but asking for the canti-studs
 to be lowered for 650b...

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[RBW] Re: Bridgestone motorcycle

2013-12-21 Thread ericf3
I could be thinking of another Japanese bike of the same era, but I think 
it was the B/S 350 that had a rotary shift pattern -- that is, the usual up 
or down to go up/ down or down/up a gear except that in top gear, 
continuing to upshift took you all the way around to 1st gear.

Never rode one to know for sure, but if this was the case it was bad design 
I reckon . . .

On Thursday, 19 December 2013 09:17:24 UTC-8, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:

 Hey All,
 I was perusing the local CL yesterday and came upon this

 http://redding.craigslist.org/mcy/4248714400.html


 Who knew?

 Chris
 Redding, Ca.


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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam or Simple One for my needs?

2013-12-21 Thread Michael


 Thanks Jim and everybody for the great info!


1. Looks like the smallest Simple One ever in production was a 56cm frame? 
That means the 56.5 TT c-c, according to the posted geometry charts at RBW, 
is too long for me to use drops, which I would want on this bike. I am 
maxed out with drops on my on my 55.5 TT c-c Sam with a 6cm stem extension. 
Very comfy though. But wouldn't want another 1.5cm longer.

Maybe someone here can measure their 56cm SimpleOne's TT c-c and post back 
what theirs actually is. If anyone has time and feels like it.
Maybe it is shorter in real time than the geo charts say. It is that way 
with the 52cm Sam because of the sloping theory.

2. The SO and QB are both coastable, right?

Thanks again for the great info, everyone!
Maybe I will wait for the new one to come out next year if me and 29 peeps 
put down the cash money in time. That would take some spousal convincing 
though, or selling my - perish the thought - Bleriot.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650B Question

2013-12-21 Thread NickBull
Hi, Eric,

In the Pasela class, for 650B, the Soma B-Line without flatguard 
(http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-372/Soma-650b-x-38mm/Detail) has 
worked just fine for me, and I expect that the Soma X-Press with flatguard 
(http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/t106-10118.htm) would be just fine, too, 
but have a little more rolling resistance.  I've ridden the B-Lines on 
numerous brevets.  My wife rides them for commuting almost every day.  So 
far, between us, we've gotten exactly one flat on the non-flatproof 
B-Lines since 2011.

But I must say, for brevets, the extra cost of the Hetre's is worth it to 
me.  They're a plushier yet at-least-as-fast tire.  And for something like 
PBP, the Pari-Motos are worth it for the little bit less weight and less 
rolling resistance.  But in my experience they only last around 2000 miles.

Nick

On Friday, December 20, 2013 12:59:04 AM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 OK, I'm convinced. Stack o' tubes has been ordered from Rivendell. I'll 
 start experimenting with tires when I wear out the Nifty Swiftys that are 
 on the bike.

 I've been using Panaracer Paselas on most of my bikes for years now, with 
 consistently great results. Any thoughts about the Col de la Vie?


 On Dec 19, 2013, at 9:42 PM, Michael john1...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Welcome to the wonderland of 650b wheels/tires! My first 650b was a 
 Bleriot, too!


 I'll save you a lot of time and boil it down for you. I,too, live in a 
 650b-free LBS zone and have had to forage for tubes.

 1. Just get the tubes from rivbike.com or compasscycle.com. It is worth 
 it to just get them. Throw one into each order you make in the future to 
 keep them in stock.

 *To save you time in the inevitable search for better tires:*
 *This is the state of 650b tires as of 12/20/2013 (as far as I have 
 researched):*
 1. Regarded as the fastest and comfortablest 650b tires:
 Grand Bois Hetres and Grand Bois Cypress. Sold at compasscycle.com.
 Pari-Motos may be a close second, but I hear they have a bad flatting 
 record? The Hutchinson 32mm tires at compasscycle.com may be just as 
 fast, too? Others can chime in.
 2. For the most puncture protected 650b tires that are probably still 
 going to fit on a Bleriot: Schwalbe Marathon HS420, sold at rivbike.com. 
 It is pure overkill, but a delight to ride and not have to worry much after 
 you plow through fields of glass on your rides. I ahev them under Longboard 
 fenders on my Sam Hillborne. I would guess that they would fot on a 
 Bleriot, but haven't tried.
 The Hetres and Marathons both measure 40.5 on my 650b rims at 55psi, last 
 I checked.
 So, widthwise, they should work on a Bleriot. But the Marathon may have a 
 taller profile because of its massive tread.

 Hetres fit great on my Bleriot under SKS P45 fenders. I have Tektro R559 
 brakes and also works with Paul Centerpull brakes.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam or Simple One for my needs?

2013-12-21 Thread cyclotourist
2. The SO and QB are both coastable, right?

Yes, 100% so. Unless you put a fixed cog on. Then 100% not so. :-)

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 6:41 PM, Michael john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Jim and everybody for the great info!


 1. Looks like the smallest Simple One ever in production was a 56cm frame?
 That means the 56.5 TT c-c, according to the posted geometry charts at RBW,
 is too long for me to use drops, which I would want on this bike. I am
 maxed out with drops on my on my 55.5 TT c-c Sam with a 6cm stem extension.
 Very comfy though. But wouldn't want another 1.5cm longer.

 Maybe someone here can measure their 56cm SimpleOne's TT c-c and post back
 what theirs actually is. If anyone has time and feels like it.
 Maybe it is shorter in real time than the geo charts say. It is that way
 with the 52cm Sam because of the sloping theory.

 2. The SO and QB are both coastable, right?

 Thanks again for the great info, everyone!
 Maybe I will wait for the new one to come out next year if me and 29 peeps
 put down the cash money in time. That would take some spousal convincing
 though, or selling my - perish the thought - Bleriot.

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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-21 Thread Cecily Walker
In a fit of inspiration? stupidity? I decided to try to ride my bike to 
work on Friday. I should mention that the city of Vancouver had about 
10cm/4in of snow fall overnight, and I soon grew weary of waiting for a cab 
that never came. I managed to make it two blocks before I fishtailed, and 
not being nearly as savvy a rider as I make myself out to be, I stopped, 
phoned in to work and told them I wouldn't be coming in, and spent the next 
45 minutes taking pictures and playing in the snow on the plaza in the 
middle of my neighbourhood (the plaza is about 100 steps from my front 
door). 

After realizing that standing on snow for 45 minutes when you have RA makes 
just about as much sense as shoving splinters under your fingernails for 
fun, I headed back home. I was within 10 feet of my door when I wiped out 
and fell on my well-padded tuchis in the middle of the street. Luckily, I'm 
able to laugh at myself. 

Pics prove the playing in the snow happened, a bruise proves the fall 
happened (no photos of that, though). 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecily/sets/72157638899404975/

Cecily (the mad librarian)

On Friday, December 20, 2013 2:37:37 PM UTC-8, PeterG wrote:

 Cecily,
 As someone who has, from time to time, been physically prohibited from 
 riding, I can feel your frustration. Almost every time I thought my cycling 
 days were over, my body healed itself and allowed me to have another season 
 of riding. I hope you have the same outcome. Keep your thoughts positive 
 and keep reading this wonderful blog. There is a lot of inspiration here 
 and a lot of people who care...Merry Christmas Cecily...

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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
Oo. Ouch. Snow that wet is the slipperiest. Glad you're OK and had 
a blast in the plaza.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:40:17 PM UTC-7, Cecily Walker wrote:

 In a fit of inspiration? stupidity? I decided to try to ride my bike to 
 work on Friday. I should mention that the city of Vancouver had about 
 10cm/4in of snow fall overnight, and I soon grew weary of waiting for a cab 
 that never came. I managed to make it two blocks before I fishtailed, and 
 not being nearly as savvy a rider as I make myself out to be, I stopped, 
 phoned in to work and told them I wouldn't be coming in, and spent the next 
 45 minutes taking pictures and playing in the snow on the plaza in the 
 middle of my neighbourhood (the plaza is about 100 steps from my front 
 door). 

 After realizing that standing on snow for 45 minutes when you have RA 
 makes just about as much sense as shoving splinters under your fingernails 
 for fun, I headed back home. I was within 10 feet of my door when I wiped 
 out and fell on my well-padded tuchis in the middle of the street. Luckily, 
 I'm able to laugh at myself. 

 Pics prove the playing in the snow happened, a bruise proves the fall 
 happened (no photos of that, though).  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecily/sets/72157638899404975/

 Cecily (the mad librarian)

 On Friday, December 20, 2013 2:37:37 PM UTC-8, PeterG wrote:

 Cecily,
 As someone who has, from time to time, been physically prohibited from 
 riding, I can feel your frustration. Almost every time I thought my cycling 
 days were over, my body healed itself and allowed me to have another season 
 of riding. I hope you have the same outcome. Keep your thoughts positive 
 and keep reading this wonderful blog. There is a lot of inspiration here 
 and a lot of people who care...Merry Christmas Cecily...



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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-21 Thread Cecily Walker
I'm from Atlanta, GA originally. What do I know about snow except you're 
supposed to go to the grocery store for milk and bread before it hits? ;-)

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 7:59:27 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Oo. Ouch. Snow that wet is the slipperiest. Glad you're OK and had 
 a blast in the plaza.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:40:17 PM UTC-7, Cecily Walker wrote:

 In a fit of inspiration? stupidity? I decided to try to ride my bike to 
 work on Friday. I should mention that the city of Vancouver had about 
 10cm/4in of snow fall overnight, and I soon grew weary of waiting for a cab 
 that never came. I managed to make it two blocks before I fishtailed, and 
 not being nearly as savvy a rider as I make myself out to be, I stopped, 
 phoned in to work and told them I wouldn't be coming in, and spent the next 
 45 minutes taking pictures and playing in the snow on the plaza in the 
 middle of my neighbourhood (the plaza is about 100 steps from my front 
 door). 

 After realizing that standing on snow for 45 minutes when you have RA 
 makes just about as much sense as shoving splinters under your fingernails 
 for fun, I headed back home. I was within 10 feet of my door when I wiped 
 out and fell on my well-padded tuchis in the middle of the street. Luckily, 
 I'm able to laugh at myself. 

 Pics prove the playing in the snow happened, a bruise proves the fall 
 happened (no photos of that, though).  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecily/sets/72157638899404975/

 Cecily (the mad librarian)

 On Friday, December 20, 2013 2:37:37 PM UTC-8, PeterG wrote:

 Cecily,
 As someone who has, from time to time, been physically prohibited from 
 riding, I can feel your frustration. Almost every time I thought my cycling 
 days were over, my body healed itself and allowed me to have another season 
 of riding. I hope you have the same outcome. Keep your thoughts positive 
 and keep reading this wonderful blog. There is a lot of inspiration here 
 and a lot of people who care...Merry Christmas Cecily...



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[RBW] Re: A moment of sadness

2013-12-21 Thread Deacon Patrick
Nah, you're supposed to have enough pemmican to get you through the winter. 
Grin.

Though I run barefoot 6-8 months out of the year without a scratch, when 
conditions are too cold, my feet go dumb (not a typo, they aren't numb) and 
I bash them into things because things aren't working properly. Go easy on 
yourself. You're already pushing your boundaries on a clear day -- no 
reason to endanger yourself. Give yourself permission to go as fast as you 
can, as slow as you must. And remember to focus on the gifts all around 
you rather than dwell on the pain. Life is just easier that way.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 9:09:18 PM UTC-7, Cecily Walker wrote:

 I'm from Atlanta, GA originally. What do I know about snow except you're 
 supposed to go to the grocery store for milk and bread before it hits? ;-)

 On Saturday, December 21, 2013 7:59:27 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Oo. Ouch. Snow that wet is the slipperiest. Glad you're OK and 
 had a blast in the plaza.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Saturday, December 21, 2013 8:40:17 PM UTC-7, Cecily Walker wrote:

 In a fit of inspiration? stupidity? I decided to try to ride my bike to 
 work on Friday. I should mention that the city of Vancouver had about 
 10cm/4in of snow fall overnight, and I soon grew weary of waiting for a cab 
 that never came. I managed to make it two blocks before I fishtailed, and 
 not being nearly as savvy a rider as I make myself out to be, I stopped, 
 phoned in to work and told them I wouldn't be coming in, and spent the next 
 45 minutes taking pictures and playing in the snow on the plaza in the 
 middle of my neighbourhood (the plaza is about 100 steps from my front 
 door). 

 After realizing that standing on snow for 45 minutes when you have RA 
 makes just about as much sense as shoving splinters under your fingernails 
 for fun, I headed back home. I was within 10 feet of my door when I wiped 
 out and fell on my well-padded tuchis in the middle of the street. Luckily, 
 I'm able to laugh at myself. 

 Pics prove the playing in the snow happened, a bruise proves the fall 
 happened (no photos of that, though).  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cecily/sets/72157638899404975/

 Cecily (the mad librarian)

 On Friday, December 20, 2013 2:37:37 PM UTC-8, PeterG wrote:

 Cecily,
 As someone who has, from time to time, been physically prohibited from 
 riding, I can feel your frustration. Almost every time I thought my 
 cycling 
 days were over, my body healed itself and allowed me to have another 
 season 
 of riding. I hope you have the same outcome. Keep your thoughts positive 
 and keep reading this wonderful blog. There is a lot of inspiration here 
 and a lot of people who care...Merry Christmas Cecily...



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[RBW] Re: Bridgestone motorcycle

2013-12-21 Thread Joe Bernard
Yep, that was the one Eric. Accidentally hit 1st gear at 70mph and you were 
gonna spit yourself off the bike or lunch the motor. Or both!

On Saturday, December 21, 2013 6:09:12 PM UTC-8, ericf3 wrote:

 I could be thinking of another Japanese bike of the same era, but I think 
 it was the B/S 350 that had a rotary shift pattern -- that is, the usual up 
 or down to go up/ down or down/up a gear except that in top gear, 
 continuing to upshift took you all the way around to 1st gear.

 Never rode one to know for sure, but if this was the case it was bad 
 design I reckon . . .

 On Thursday, 19 December 2013 09:17:24 UTC-8, Chris in Redding, Ca. wrote:

 Hey All,
 I was perusing the local CL yesterday and came upon this

 http://redding.craigslist.org/mcy/4248714400.html


 Who knew?

 Chris
 Redding, Ca.



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[RBW] FS: 58cm canti Saluki

2013-12-21 Thread Doug Van Cleve
Howdy folks.

Well my dad doesn't want to keep the Saluki I found and built up for him a
few years ago.  It is in great shape, all good stuff.  I took a quick look
at it last week, here is some of the stuff:  Velocity Synergy/OC on 105
hubs, Ultegra brifters and rear der, FSA compact front der, Nitto bar 
stem, those nice Shimano cantis, Suntour 175 triple set up as a compact
double, MKS touring pedals, B.17 on some Italian seatpost.  Anyway, all
pretty nice stuff and in great shape.  I told him I would try to help him
sell it.  $1750 plus actual shipping.  If you might be interested, shoot me
an email and I will get pics and more details.

Merry Christmas,
Doug

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Re: [RBW] Grant-ish Fix?

2013-12-21 Thread Michael
Capital idea!
Nice flexible thinking!
Qbeam bike?

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Re: [RBW] FS: 58cm canti Saluki

2013-12-21 Thread cyclotourist
We were just talking about used Salukis, good timing.

Although (un)fortunately a bit too small for me

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 10:25 PM, Doug Van Cleve dvancl...@gmail.comwrote:

 Howdy folks.

 Well my dad doesn't want to keep the Saluki I found and built up for him a
 few years ago.  It is in great shape, all good stuff.  I took a quick look
 at it last week, here is some of the stuff:  Velocity Synergy/OC on 105
 hubs, Ultegra brifters and rear der, FSA compact front der, Nitto bar 
 stem, those nice Shimano cantis, Suntour 175 triple set up as a compact
 double, MKS touring pedals, B.17 on some Italian seatpost.  Anyway, all
 pretty nice stuff and in great shape.  I told him I would try to help him
 sell it.  $1750 plus actual shipping.  If you might be interested, shoot me
 an email and I will get pics and more details.

 Merry Christmas,
 Doug

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 RBW Owners Bunch group.
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