[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[stonehog]

I personally wish I would have listened to the wisdom of the group when I 
joined this forum in '08.  I would have saved a lot of time and money...  

I originally had 46cm Noodles on my Hilsen, but found the drops unusable at 
the time as they felt 'way too low' and the 46cm was wide enough that my 
forearms hit the tops when I was in the drops - that was weird.  I was also 
coming from years of flat bar mtb riding, and hadn't ridden in drops since 
the 80s. I then went down the long slow spiral of "cockpit madness" trying 
porteur bars (liked, but numbed hands over 50 miles), albatross (weird 
curve angle for my wrists), moustache (nope - too few positions).  After 
several years of experimentation, when I started doing longer rides (100, 
200km), going to Nitto 115 (plain old drops) I had the revelation that a 
narrow drop works really well.  

I ended up finally on 42cm Noodles (nirvana), but, on the recent Oregon 
Outback I tried 44cm Noodles on my Hunqa to get more leverage and, while 
they kept my hands happy like my narrower noodles, they didn't give me 
quite the leverage to feel in control on some of the fast gravel descents 
with a good load in low-riders.  Perhaps 46 or 48 Noodles - yes back to the 
beginning? I also realize that most of the time, my aero position is 
putting my hands on the flats close to the stem, bending my elbows, and 
dropping my body down.  I almost never use the drops, but they are nice 
when I'm doing a fast descent into the wind on gravel or road.  They also 
allow me to stretch my back out a bit more.

The following is a summary of some things I've learned:

1. Drops give you the more positions for your back and hand pressure 
relief, as well as allowing control and aero positions when you are riding 
into the wind
2. Narrow bars work well with "easier steering bikes" a-la low trail like 
my Toussaint, or when used with higher trail bikes on the groomed road with 
light loads
3. Gravel and higher trail requests more leverage (wider bars) for 
confidence, of which the Albastache is more ideal for me due to the brake 
position in the front (where hands are when descending fast), and the good 
wrist angle I get in the curves compared to the Albatross
4. I wasn't super comfortable in drops until started riding longer 
distances, and improving core strength helped a lot - pilates is good, 
easy, and doesn't require a gym membership or equipment
5. All this is my opinion only - you may have the opposite experience...

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA


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[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Daniel D.]

lol you're my favorite poster on here.  I'm just trying to figure out the 
best set up to roll the dice on first.  At $90 a pop handlebar+possible 
stem change, experimentation can get expensive.  I feel the drop bars would 
be a safer choice for my tastes.  But the sam I test rode and liked had 
albastaches, but it was a short flat ride.  I don't think there's a drop 
bar 51cm sam available to test ride.
On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 6:02:08 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
>Bars are bars , how you choose to use them is infinite :)   So is 
> the frame , infinite ways to set one up .   So no one can fully answer your 
> question but you , *know thyself *!   
>

40 miles is the magic number for me.  Below that I could wear or ride many 
things without complaint. Above is when I start getting picky.
 

>   
> On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 4:22:17 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>>
>> When you say "long rides," what sort of distance do you have in mind?   
>> Was that 38 mile ride a long ride? 
>>
>>  

This matches my thoughts on what the differences might be. For me, seems 
drops are the safer bet.  While albastaches would be the whimsical go full 
riv choice.  thanks for the thoughts everyone.
On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 7:14:58 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> I found the Albatross bars on my Atlantis not really ideal for long 
> distance for a few reasons:
>
> - When riding at a casual pace, they are supremely comfortable. Very 
> 'chill' one could say. I had them setup about 1cm above my saddle height. I 
> had two good hand position options, and one more forward but less 
> comfortable option.
> - The very upright position placed all my weight on the saddle, in a very 
> specific way. When I use drops, even when they are higher up, I find that 
> leaning forward (not bending down, leaning forward. It's different!) gives 
> me a few different ways to position my body on the saddle, which allows me 
> to ride comfortably for over 200km at a time. With the abla's I had 
> difficulty doing that and as a result would get a sore butt after a while. 
> - The WIND! Not sure where you live, but where I am from everything is 
> quite exposed. Riding with the alba's turns your body into a wall 
> basically. There is no hiding from the wind, no drops to drop into to 
> minimize the drag. Regardless if you don't care about going quickly, it's a 
> real drag to fight the wind tooth and nail all day while you're in a very 
> upright position (see what I did there..?)
> - bar interference - when riding trails, I found the fact that the bars 
> sweep back so far, they would hit my legs when trying to make tight turns. 
> For that reason they are never an option when trail riding anything other 
> than smooth flowy stuff. I had a few times when I couldn't make a corner 
> because the bars were in the way.
>
> Now, don't get me wrong, I LOVE these bars! They are my go-to winter bar 
> because they work very well with mitts. They are very stable on snow as 
> well. For booting around town, they'd be the best bar ever. For rides 
> around 100km where you don't give a hoot about how long it takes you, 
> fantastic bar! But if I was on an extended tour where I wanted to hit a 
> particular distance each day, and there was some exposure to the wind, I 
> would be hesitant to use 'em. Just my two cents!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Jones Loop H-Bar (Silver, 710 width) Lightly Used

[RDS]

Bars sold.

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 12:39:08 AM UTC-4, RDS wrote:

> For Sale:  Recently purchased a silver Jones Loop bar in aluminum with the 
> 710 width (can be cut shorter).  This is the version which has the fully 
> enclosed front loop portion of the bars.  I have ridden with the bar less 
> than 20 miles on all smoothly paved rail trail.  So, minor scuffs of 
> installing brakes and stem.  The bars just aren't going to work out for 
> this particular bike.  I am not currently at home, so it will be later 
> tonight before I will be at home to take pics.  Purchased for $125 from the 
> Jones store.  $100 shipped to anywhere in the 48 continental USA states.  
> Contact me via private message to request pics or to make an offer for the 
> bars.  Prefer Paypal.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: 68cm Atlantis

[Kelly]

Well they do come up on occasion and saw where someone got one off eBay 
that I never even saw.. dang it. :)   So figured I'ld make sure everyone 
knew I was a looking still.Guess worst case scenario is over the same 
geometry from waterford myself. 



On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 7:51:37 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:
>
> Ah, the proverbial White Rhino 
>

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[RBW] WTB: 68cm Atlantis

[Kieran J]

Ah, the proverbial White Rhino

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[RBW] FS On One Midge, Nitto Periscopa, Brake Levers

[EGNolan]

Short & Sweet just like the title suggests. I've got a dirt drop cockpit 
for sale. I just don't like drops on 95% of my riding (commuting, riding w/ 
kids, errand runs) so these have to go. I'd prefer to sell it as a set, but 
can sell separately if needed. The On-One Midge's are white, & have 
scratches around the bend where I tried to use a non-nitto stem that 
wouldn't quite work. I'll remove the bar tape and pull the stem to get more 
detailed photos, but you can see them 
here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ericgnolan/18971469081/

I'd like $90 shipped in continental US for the whole kit, but am open to 
offers. If you want just part of it, make an offer.

Best,
Eric
Indpls

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[RBW] Re: U-LOCK TOTE ??

[bo richardson]

Abus germany makes something similar for 
cable locks. i ordered one and then realized 
it was probably too small for straight cables
 and meant only for coiled cable locks.
will know all when it arrives.

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Jeremy Till]

I've had very good experiences over the past couple of years riding long 
distances (up to about 90 miles/day, and a week long, ~500 mile tour with 
plenty of climbing) with upright bars, mostly 58cm Boscos. I totally agree 
with Ron and Clayton: just like with drop bars, set up matters, and every 
body is different with regards to things like core strength, flexibility, 
limb and torso dimensions, etc.  Definitely, for me, long top tubes and 
stems seem to help me get upright bars feeling nice and "roomy."  

While I love my Boscos dearly, I've also had a pair of the current standard 
55cm CrMo albatrosses that have moved between a couple of different bikes 
and umpteen different setups and the truth is, they haven't worked as well 
for me.  I think a lot of this is down to width; the bit of extra width on 
the Boscos really helps me be in a relaxed yet-secure position.  I was at 
Riv HQ this past weekend and riding one of their Hunqapillars with Alba's 
that felt better, and talking to Keven I discovered that in fact had one of 
the older, slightly wider (56cm) bars on it. I was surprised at the 
difference it made.  I think the bend was subtly different was well, such 
that it maintained more if its width closer to the forward curve. 

In terms of climbing, I actually feel like I climb better with Boscos, 
especially long climbs, since the position doesn't put as much strain on my 
lower back and hip areas.  My whole body is more relaxed, so more of my 
energy can be sent to power my legs.  If i do need more leverage or to 
shift my weight forward for a steep bit, I can grab the boscos on the 
forward curves. Furthermore, sitting up and looking around while climbing 
is an awesome way to pass the time while climbing. I've done many rides on 
upright bars that I had only previously done on drops and have been amazed 
by how many new things I've noticed: cool trees, interesting houses, little 
vistas that only emerge momentarily in passing.  I think that's especially 
nice when you're on tour and passing through new areas.

The headwind thing I think is fair.  Prior to the beginning of this year, I 
was living in a place where most rides involved a lot of climbing 
(Berkeley), but now I've moved to a flatter locale (Sacramento) where 
headwinds are more of a challenge, and I think about it a lot. If you're 
comparing my position to that of a racy drop bar bike I'm definitely 
presenting a larger surface area.  However, if you are comparing my 
real-world Bosco position to a drop bar position I might actually ride, I'm 
not so sure.  Over the weekend I was riding with a friend of similar 
height, whose bike was setup very similarly to my last drop bar position, 
before I sold my "road" bike: contemporary short-and-shallow drop bars 
setup roughly seat height and with a short stem.  At one point I was riding 
behind him when he was in the drops and noticed that with my hands on the 
forward part of the bosco grip area and my elbows only slightly bent, that 
my head was basically level with his, so overall our cross sectional area 
couldn't have been that different.  Even if there is a disadvantage to 
upright bars in terms of wind resistance, it's only a disadvantage in a 
headwind.  The second you have a tailwind, you're flying!  In general I 
don't really care about speed that much, although I appreciate being 
efficient.  I feel like upright bars give me more confidence to ride longer 
distances with more comfort, so even if there is a speed penalty I think 
it's worth it overall.  

I do totally get how swept back bars can be bit tricky in tight, low speed 
turns.  I've developed an instinct to deal with that: when I do have to go 
around a tight corner and rotate the bars a bunch, I kick out my inside 
knee, kind of like a moto GP rider, although I'm sure it looks funny since 
it's only at low speeds.


On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 5:38:10 PM UTC-4, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> Best "distance upright bar" for me is the bosco. You can get aero on them 
> or upright the range is huge.
>
> Personally I still like drops better for long spirited rides (200K plus), 
> but have no issue riding a century with upright bars. 
>
> The other thing to consider is that bars don't exist in a vacuum. Distance 
> from saddle, saddle to bar drop, saddle set back, frame geometry, all play 
> a huge role in how a bar feels and fits.. 
>
> A long toptube and long chainstays are nice with bosco bars as it  won't 
> feel like the bar is in your lap and you will still have weight distributed 
> more "between the wheels" as you would on a short chainstay bike with a 
> short top tube.
>
> In additon, what is comfortable for 80 miles can be very different at 200 
> miles. I have no problem riding in carhartt shorts and cotton boxers for 50 
> miles or so, but would not think of doing a 300K brevet without "real" bike 
> shorts and chamois cream.
>
> The only way to figure it out for yourself though is to go further than is 
> comfortab

[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[hsmitham]

Read all the posts and agree with Garth. There are just so many variables. 
Here are my experiences.

On my 58cm Hilsen in 2013 I toured from SF to Paso with noddle bars and 
found it adequate, they really made it difficult on a slow loaded climb as 
it was difficult to keep the load under control, and I found I couldn't 
remain in the drops for long as back fatigue set in. Even so I was 
reluctant to go with an upright bar. I eased my way in with the Albastache 
bars on both my Hilsen and Atlantis. On the Hilsen I had a 9cm tallux stem 
but I felt slightly stretched out, I have some low back disk bulging (here 
is the first example of differentiation between people) so being able to 
sit fully upright is a benefit. So recently, on the HIlsen I switched to a 
8cm dirt drop which obviously brought the bars up and back. That change 
seemed to be the sweet spot for now. I say for now because we are all in 
flux, so what feels good now may be different in the future.The Hilsen is 
now relegated to day rides between 15 & 30 miles, I hope to increase my 
miles but that's my reality these days.

My 56cm Atlantis had the Albastache bars coupled with a 12cm tallux stem 
and I did lot's of day rambles and overnights, no long tours, like the 
Hilsen I felt stretched out and on a long ride I had hand & wrist 
discomfort. Recently, as some of you may already know I traded out the 12cm 
for the 9cm (from the Hilsen) then  finally went to a 10cm tallux stem and 
believe, I'm almost certain I found the sweet spot. The bar clamp is just 
slightly above my saddle height with the bar ends angled down. I find I 
have three primary hand positions.

1. To the rear at the grips.
2. just fore of the brake clamp sometimes over the brake clamps.
3. In the so called hooks. 

All three give me great riding postures. The hooks I'm angled forward to 
cut into the wind, and the two rear positions give my back varying degrees 
of relief. In the full upright position I'm not gonna be pushing for speed, 
but I'm not real slow just a more leisurely attitude. In the hooks I feel 
more aggressive and can lean in for more speed.

Between the two different setups I have to say they're both entirely 
different! I love them both for completely different reasons. The Hilsen is 
light & nimble running with next to no load other than me, the Grand Bois 
Hetres are light, supple and quick adding to the fleet feeling and the 
Albastache bars have many of the positive attributes of drop bars, keeping 
the Hilsen more racerly 

The Atlantis with all the rack add on's feels like a 4x4 truck, solid, with 
great visibility and a sure footed vibe running the Schwalbe Thunder 
Burt's. By no means is the Atlantis a slug, I still feel the frame coupled 
with the TB's and the Alba' give back a supple comfortable ride without 
compromising too much on forward momentum.

So which one is the most comfortable? I have to say the Atlantis. Have I 
done rando miles? No. Have I put them to the test on a long tour? No. But 
based on my previous experiences I feel pretty confidant that they'll be 
great. I'm going on tour in July and will have more feedback on the 
Albatross bars and their merits or demerits.

In regards to Mark's points. Yes the bar ends can and do get in the way! 
Especially on tight turning. I've ridden my Atlantis on plenty of single 
track, tight vegetation and hairpin turns and never felt unduly hindered. 
There have been a handful of times when my knee knocked into the right 
shifter and gave me an undesired shift but never too bad. And on tight 
turns in awkward positions it probably made more sense to dismount or take 
it easy. IMO my Atlantis  weighs 30+ lbs I'm just not gonna be going fast 
anywhere. It's all about making a conscious prioritized compromise. What do 
you want to achieve in relation to your riding habits and experience. Funny 
how with bikes at least IME it takes time, money and patience. Hope some of 
this helps and good luck in your discovery process.

Tail Winds,

~Hugh with a head cold here typing and wishing he was going on the swift 
solstice camp out tomorrow.
  Los Angeles, CA 

On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 9:41:00 PM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Day Dreaming about how I would build up a sam.  Thinking about why I want 
> the sam realized it would be for fun long rides.  If I'm running errands 
> I'd use my cheaper bikes.  Loaded touring I have a bike for that.  Are drop 
> bars a safer bet for long distance riding?   Don't have much experience 
> with upright bars.  Seems like the upright bars limit the options for hand 
> position.  
>

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[RBW] WTB: 68cm Atlantis

[Kelly]

Just keeping my name out there as looking.   :) 

Kelly 


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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Clayton.sf]

Best "distance upright bar" for me is the bosco. You can get aero on them 
or upright the range is huge.

Personally I still like drops better for long spirited rides (200K plus), 
but have no issue riding a century with upright bars. 

The other thing to consider is that bars don't exist in a vacuum. Distance 
from saddle, saddle to bar drop, saddle set back, frame geometry, all play 
a huge role in how a bar feels and fits.. 

A long toptube and long chainstays are nice with bosco bars as it  won't 
feel like the bar is in your lap and you will still have weight distributed 
more "between the wheels" as you would on a short chainstay bike with a 
short top tube.

In additon, what is comfortable for 80 miles can be very different at 200 
miles. I have no problem riding in carhartt shorts and cotton boxers for 50 
miles or so, but would not think of doing a 300K brevet without "real" bike 
shorts and chamois cream.

The only way to figure it out for yourself though is to go further than is 
comfortable.

Also, make sure to make your changes and then ride them for a while. Some 
things may not feel right immediately but once you spend some time with it 
that can change. If you constantly fiddle with the setup you never get to 
perfect because your body takes a little to adapt. When I first got my 
Jones bike I loved it but hated the Jones bars and it was hard for me to 
ride them without constantly wheely-ing the bike when climbing. Took a few 
rides and Jeff Jones telling me to stick with it before it clicked. Now I 
think the bars are great, but they were not great right away.

Clayton Scott
SF, CA 



On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 1:23:04 PM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> What should be obvious is that virtually  everyone posting on this thread 
> has different experiences, and that is the only consensus.   I have no use 
> for noodles, and like Cinelli 64 as my favorite drops.  
> There are two post adjacent posts where one says alba is more comfortable 
> than drop on long distance and the next says the opposite.  
> In the end, you're going to have to dial it in and figure out what works 
> for you - but that's the way this always works.  
>
> On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 2:56:37 PM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>> ...
>>
>> My experience with moustache bars parallels the experience of 
>> Albatross/Albastache/Moustache users here.
>> ...
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: U-LOCK TOTE ??

[Irving]

Ely at Ruthworks makes a pretty cool lookin' U-Lock 
holster: http://www.ruthworkssf.com/options-menu.html

On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 7:30:05 PM UTC-7, Jon Dukeman in the 
foothills of Colorado wrote:
>
> Anyone use one of these? Or do you put your U-LOCK   in your bag?
> Jon
>
>
> http://www.dillpicklegear.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=78&product_id=63
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 63cm Canti-Romulus part out

[Joe Broach]

Disclaimer: my canti-rom's been my main bike for 10 years

With that out of the way: Somebody snap this up. I don't know why the Roms
seem to be the ugly duckling Rivs from a resell standpoint. This is a
Toyo-Japan built frame for seven hundred bucks. The year is 2015. Lugged
Taiwanese frames (also great!) go for twice that much. The fit and finish
on the Roms is top notch. They don't fit the super fatties + fenders that
the HIlsen does, but they'll fit 700x40s

without. Great paint, fork, and light tubing for Riv (8-5-8). I've toyed
with passing mine along because it's a hair small for me, but I'll probably
have it forever.

Best,
joe broach
pdx or



On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 5:15 AM, lukeheller  wrote:

> Don't be intimated by this 63cm frame, it's not just for Giants. I am 6'
> with a 34" inseam and 87cm PBH. KNOW YOUR PBH and use the force. IIRC the
> ST is 61 center to center, can check when home if that helps.
>
> I usually ride 58-60cm frames but the 63cm Romulus fit me well. Selling to
> make room for a custom.
>
> ST c-t 63cm
> TT 59.5
> HT angle 73
> ST angle 72
> rake 42.5 cm
>
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>

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Re: [RBW] Re: U-LOCK TOTE ??

[Jon Dukeman]

Thanks Minh..That's good to know!
I got my Pass and Stow rack..love it!

On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 1:47 PM, Minh  wrote:

>
> if you're handy, there are a few diy guides to make your own
> https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=diy+u+lock+holster
>
> or if you're flush with cash,
> http://walnutstudiolo.com/products/leather-bike-u-lock-holster-rack-mounted-for-5-5-x-7-25-u-lock
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: U-LOCK TOTE ??

[Jon Dukeman]

Hmmm I just happen to have a Med Shopsack:)

On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:15 PM, Tony DeFilippo  wrote:

> Sackville Med fits everything... :)
>
> It is pretty slick looking though.
>
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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

What should be obvious is that virtually  everyone posting on this thread 
has different experiences, and that is the only consensus.   I have no use 
for noodles, and like Cinelli 64 as my favorite drops.  
There are two post adjacent posts where one says alba is more comfortable 
than drop on long distance and the next says the opposite.  
In the end, you're going to have to dial it in and figure out what works 
for you - but that's the way this always works.  

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 2:56:37 PM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> ...
>
> My experience with moustache bars parallels the experience of 
> Albatross/Albastache/Moustache users here.
> ...
>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Tim Gavin]

I rode the entire RAGBRAI (~450 miles over 7 days) last year on moustache
bars in a Nitto Dirt Drop 10 stem and bar-end Silver shifters.

My experience with moustache bars parallels the experience of
Albatross/Albastache/Moustache users here.

I found the moustache bars to be excellent town and casual bars, but not
great for faster riding or longer distances.

The rearward, parallel extensions made a very comfortable place to ride
upright or semi-upright.  Unfortunately, I didn't find either of the
forward positions (inside the curves, or out on the brake hoods) to be very
comfortable.  I find the forward positions to be too far forward, leaving
my arms out like superman and my body core unsupported.

On the moustache bars, I found myself rotating between the three positions
but unable to comfortably settle on one.

I switched my Riv back to drops (Nitto B135 Randonneur) after liking them
so much on my drop-bar-converted-KOM.

http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/Tim_Gavin/media/Rivendell/IMG_00411_zpscyqwe3pe.jpg.html

I currently have them close to saddle height in an 80 cm Nitto Technomic
stem (Silver bar-ends again, after trying out old Campy Ergos and finding
their triple shifting wanting. Nothing beats the Silver bar-ends for triple
shifting).

I find myself riding in the drops about 75% of the time.  My body core is
supported, my posture is a mid-forward lean.  I can still ride on the bar
centers or corners for casual upright riding, and the flats and lever hoods
are comfortable as well.

I got frustrated with the moustache bars on rides like RAGBRAI because I
felt like I couldn't keep up a faster pace on the moustache bars.  This
made the long days on the road longer.  I average a ~2 mph faster pace with
the drop bars compared to the moustache bars.


-Tim Gavin
Cedar Rapids, IA

P.S. If anyone is riding RAGBRAI this year and wants to meet up and/or ride
some gravel on day 6, let me know.  I'm riding days 5, 6, and 7 this year.
We did the whole week last year, and I won't repeat that again unless I
have a team and/or houses to stay in along the way.

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[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Matthew Snyder]

I did a ~1200 mile tour with Albatross bars, set up just above saddle 
height.  I was riding ~80 miles a day and felt extremely comfortable. I 
particularly enjoyed the feeling of touring while riding upright -- looking 
around felt much more natural. I found myself less "fidgety" than I 
typically am on drops during >100 mile rides, where I change hand positions 
frequently as I start to get tired.  I used three hand positions on the 
Albas, and I typically stayed in each position for longer periods of time. 
 This was a relatively flat tour, though, and I might have felt differently 
if there had been a lot of climbing and descending involved.

Matthew Snyder
Seattle WA
  

On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 9:41:00 PM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Day Dreaming about how I would build up a sam.  Thinking about why I want 
> the sam realized it would be for fun long rides.  If I'm running errands 
> I'd use my cheaper bikes.  Loaded touring I have a bike for that.  Are drop 
> bars a safer bet for long distance riding?   Don't have much experience 
> with upright bars.  Seems like the upright bars limit the options for hand 
> position.  
>

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[RBW] Re: U-LOCK TOTE ??

[Minh]

if you're handy, there are a few diy guides to make your own 
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=diy+u+lock+holster

or if you're flush with 
cash, 
http://walnutstudiolo.com/products/leather-bike-u-lock-holster-rack-mounted-for-5-5-x-7-25-u-lock

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[franklyn]

I have ventured into non-drop bars--moustache, albatross, Sparrow, Jitensha 
bars, I find using non-drop bars keeps me in one back position and 
compresses my lower back. This is not an issue for short distance, but I 
really need to stretch my back out more (think downward facing dog). My 
wife, who rides as much as I do, is of the same opinion (after commuting on 
a 89 Trek 850 with Jitensha bar, she goes back to riding her bell-lap 
equipped 82 Trek 720 and said that it was much more comfortable). So all my 
bikes have drop bars, even my porteur that has a very large porteur rack 
and a large porteur bag (the Swift Industries Polaris). The fours different 
bars on my bikes are Nitto Randonneur (Jitensha version), Nitto Dirt Drop, 
Nitto Noodle (46cm), and Velo Orange Course bars.

Even for short distances I prefer them over non-drop bars.

Franklyn
Berkeley, CA

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 11:28:13 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > Is it worth pointing out that drop bars, even more so than upright bars, 
> > come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes, and that the details of 
> > setup matter a great deal? 
>
> I've tried a lot of bars.  And, as I always carry at least my Park Y allen 
> wrench with me, am not shy about readjusting to find the best fit for me.
>
> After many years and many miles I have found that Albas are a great fit on 
> my touring bike, Jitensha flat bars for commuting, and Nitto M176 for no to 
> lightly loaded road riding.
>
> Certainly I am happy enough with my configuration to suggest others give 
> it a try.  No skin off my teeth if someone goes a different direction.
>

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[RBW] Re: Portland to San Luis Obispo

[dougP]

Curtis:

The Ultimate Test Ride for the new bike!  Let me know when you figure 
you'll hit SLO.  If I'm in Arroyo Grande in early August I'll try to 
connect with you.  Not sure of my summer schedule at this point.  

dougP

On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 9:37:40 PM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>
> Hey,
>
> Planning to ride from Portland to San Luis Obispo this July.  Will be 
> picking up a bicycle on July 12 and then spending two days in and around 
> Portland before heading east to Astoria.  Once on the coast will turn south 
> to SLO.  
>
> If anyone is interested for all are part I would enjoy the company.  Will 
> be camping for the most part.  Really no set schedule or daily mileage for 
> this trip.
>
> Ride well,
>
> Curtis
>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Matthew J]

> Is it worth pointing out that drop bars, even more so than upright bars, 
> come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes, and that the details of 
> setup matter a great deal? 

I've tried a lot of bars.  And, as I always carry at least my Park Y allen 
wrench with me, am not shy about readjusting to find the best fit for me.

After many years and many miles I have found that Albas are a great fit on 
my touring bike, Jitensha flat bars for commuting, and Nitto M176 for no to 
lightly loaded road riding.

Certainly I am happy enough with my configuration to suggest others give it 
a try.  No skin off my teeth if someone goes a different direction.

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Mark Reimer]

+1

Personally, the older style drops where the bars drop down before you hit
the hoods are totally not compatible with my hands. Think 70s and 80s road
bikes. Modern drops where you have a nearly horizontal flat section right
into the hoods, and then the bars drop, are fantastic for me. But the
Noodle remains my all time favourite. Huge flat ramps, and the gentle bend
just works for me.

On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 1:00 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On 06/19/2015 11:11 AM, drew wrote:
>
>> I'm currently on day 3 of my first tour with albas. I did a short tour
>> with drops and was very uncomfortable, so I switched to upright bars and
>> the conversion felt great. To mark's point, the great feeling is really
>> limited to casual riding. I'm finding that out. I can't find a position I
>> like for long steep climbs, which is adding many hand position shifts and
>> wiggling around to an already tough situation. The "on the curves"
>> position, for me, is barely workable, since those curves angle down. 5 more
>> days and I'm already thinking about an albastache swap when I get home
>>
>>
> Is it worth pointing out that drop bars, even more so than upright bars,
> come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes, and that the details of setup
> matter a great deal?
>
>
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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 06/19/2015 11:11 AM, drew wrote:

I'm currently on day 3 of my first tour with albas. I did a short tour with drops and was 
very uncomfortable, so I switched to upright bars and the conversion felt great. To 
mark's point, the great feeling is really limited to casual riding. I'm finding that out. 
I can't find a position I like for long steep climbs, which is adding many hand position 
shifts and wiggling around to an already tough situation. The "on the curves" 
position, for me, is barely workable, since those curves angle down. 5 more days and I'm 
already thinking about an albastache swap when I get home



Is it worth pointing out that drop bars, even more so than upright bars, 
come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes, and that the details of 
setup matter a great deal?


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Re: [RBW] WTB: Chris King Cages

[cyclotourist]

We're watching out for ya! King Iris are the best cages ever!

On Fri, Jun 19, 2015 at 7:35 AM, Curtis McKenzie  wrote:
> I apologies for my poor post.
>
> Looking for two Iris King cages.
>
> Curtis "to reads but seldom starts a post" McKenzie
>
> On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:02 PM, Dan McNamara  wrote:
>>
>> Assuming King Cage, which style are you looking for?
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 18, 2015, at 9:55 PM, cyclotourist 
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > Chris King, or just plain King?
>> >
>> >> On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 9:24 AM, Curtis McKenzie 
>> >> wrote:
>> >> Looking for two Chris King cages for a new build.  Thanks.
>> >>
>> >> Ride well,
>> >>
>> >> Curtis
>> >>
>> >> --
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>> >> Groups
>> >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> >> an
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>> >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Cheers,
>> > David
>> >
>> > Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>> >
>> > "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>> >
>> > --
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David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[EGNolan]

I haven't ridden the albastache, but love Alba's for commuting/around town 
riding. I honestly prefer the Bosco's for longer rides as they give the 
upright ride, but also multiple hand positions that are truly valid.

Best,
Eric

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 11:11:52 AM UTC-4, drew wrote:

> I'm currently on day 3 of my first tour with albas. I did a short tour 
> with drops and was very uncomfortable, so I switched to upright bars and 
> the conversion felt great. To mark's point, the great feeling is really 
> limited to casual riding. I'm finding that out. I can't find a position I 
> like for long steep climbs, which is adding many hand position shifts and 
> wiggling around to an already tough situation. The "on the curves" 
> position, for me, is barely workable, since those curves angle down. 5 more 
> days and I'm already thinking about an albastache swap when I get home

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[RBW] wtb: Rivendell Atlantis - 58cm

[Eric]

Looking for a 58cm Atlantis. Frame & fork...or complete. Looking for one 
with mid-fork eyelets. 

Thanks!!

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[RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[drew]

I'm currently on day 3 of my first tour with albas. I did a short tour with 
drops and was very uncomfortable, so I switched to upright bars and the 
conversion felt great. To mark's point, the great feeling is really limited to 
casual riding. I'm finding that out. I can't find a position I like for long 
steep climbs, which is adding many hand position shifts and wiggling around to 
an already tough situation. The "on the curves" position, for me, is barely 
workable, since those curves angle down. 5 more days and I'm already thinking 
about an albastache swap when I get home

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Chris King Cages

[Curtis McKenzie]

I apologies for my poor post.

Looking for two Iris King cages.

Curtis "to reads but seldom starts a post" McKenzie

On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:02 PM, Dan McNamara  wrote:

> Assuming King Cage, which style are you looking for?
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> > On Jun 18, 2015, at 9:55 PM, cyclotourist 
> wrote:
> >
> > Chris King, or just plain King?
> >
> >> On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 9:24 AM, Curtis McKenzie 
> wrote:
> >> Looking for two Chris King cages for a new build.  Thanks.
> >>
> >> Ride well,
> >>
> >> Curtis
> >>
> >> --
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> Groups
> >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> an
> >> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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> >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > David
> >
> > Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
> >
> > "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
> >
> > --
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[RBW] Re: 63cm Canti-Romulus part out

[lukeheller]

Don't be intimated by this 63cm frame, it's not just for Giants. I am 6' with a 
34" inseam and 87cm PBH. KNOW YOUR PBH and use the force. IIRC the ST is 61 
center to center, can check when home if that helps. 

I usually ride 58-60cm frames but the 63cm Romulus fit me well. Selling to make 
room for a custom. 

ST c-t 63cm 
TT 59.5
HT angle 73
ST angle 72
rake 42.5 cm

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

The one thing moustache bar gives you over hoods is tremendous brake 
leverage, but you have that with albas, also 

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 9:36:28 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I agree with everything Mark posted, and also agree with Kieran that the 
> 'stache should be a more versatile bar, because of a wider range of hand 
> positions.  However, what I have found is those different hand positions 
> don't change my back position - they just spread my arms around.  I have 
> the older moustache bar on my utility bike, which I call semi-upright (I've 
> ridden the bike 40 mi with a 2500' climb).  Not just the weight of the 
> bike, but I find that I can go farther either on my drop bar bike or my 
> fully upright bike.  It's more about back positions than hand positions, in 
> fact, the moustache cockpit is my benchmark and I used it to take 
> measurements setting up both of my other bikes.  But I find I have greater 
> range of back positions on either the upright or drops than I do on the 
> moustache.  The wind?  Not a wall, but a parachute.  
>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Matthew J]

I've heard a lot of good about the Albastache bars.  Think I will have to 
give them a try.

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Matthew J]

> wow Matthew, beautiful ride and great work

Thank you.  There is (sort of) an RBWOB connection.  Eric used late '80s 
Ibis geometry as his starting point.  Our host Jim appears to be a fan! 

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[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ginz]

I've done many 45 mile rides with the Albatross and Bullmoose and I rarely 
ride much further than that in one day.

I do not have a bike with drop bars.  I gave up on them years ago.  I'm 
5'4".  My arms and torso are short, so the distance between the tops and 
the hoods is too great --- if one position is good, the other is way too 
close or way too far.  Even though I'm flexible, I could never be 
comfortable in the drops for more than two minutes --- my diaphragm gets 
squeezed by my thighs.  The hoods make my thumb joins sore. My hands are 
proportionally small so trying to brake from the hoods (where I would ride 
90% of the time) was difficult, even with those Soma short reach brake 
levers.When I see petite women with torsos and hands smaller than mine 
riding 700c bikes with drop bars, I wonder why they feel pressured to stick 
with drops.  Maybe they like the drops... I dunno...

What I'm trying to say is that unless you like drops and the various 
positions work for you, I wouldn't assume that Albatross bars are long 
distance poison.  In my case, they are the only bar that works.

Eric

  

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

wow Matthew, beautiful ride and great work

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 9:34:56 AM UTC-5, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > any pics of your bike loaded up, epecially the rear low rider.
>
> I fear I am the un-photographer and have not yet photographed the bike on 
> the move.  Here are pictures 
>  right 
> after the build.  I load the bags backward - Brooks Land's End up front, 
> Smaller Ortlieb panniers on the back with the top hanging from the middle 
> bar.
>
> The Watson Ti bar looked cool, but was not my cup of tea at all.  I 
> swapped for Albas after the first ride. 
>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

I agree with everything Mark posted, and also agree with Kieran that the 
'stache should be a more versatile bar, because of a wider range of hand 
positions.  However, what I have found is those different hand positions 
don't change my back position - they just spread my arms around.  I have 
the older moustache bar on my utility bike, which I call semi-upright (I've 
ridden the bike 40 mi with a 2500' climb).  Not just the weight of the 
bike, but I find that I can go farther either on my drop bar bike or my 
fully upright bike.  It's more about back positions than hand positions, in 
fact, the moustache cockpit is my benchmark and I used it to take 
measurements setting up both of my other bikes.  But I find I have greater 
range of back positions on either the upright or drops than I do on the 
moustache.  The wind?  Not a wall, but a parachute.  

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Matthew J]

> any pics of your bike loaded up, epecially the rear low rider.

I fear I am the un-photographer and have not yet photographed the bike on 
the move.  Here are pictures 
 right 
after the build.  I load the bags backward - Brooks Land's End up front, 
Smaller Ortlieb panniers on the back with the top hanging from the middle 
bar.

The Watson Ti bar looked cool, but was not my cup of tea at all.  I swapped 
for Albas after the first ride. 

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Kieran J]

These are basically all the reasons why I think the Albastache is superior 
to the Albatross as a drop-bar alternative. It is somewhere in between 
Albas and drops and - in my opinion - combines the advantages of both.

KJ


On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 10:14:58 AM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> I found the Albatross bars on my Atlantis not really ideal for long 
> distance for a few reasons:
>
> - When riding at a casual pace, they are supremely comfortable. Very 
> 'chill' one could say. I had them setup about 1cm above my saddle height. I 
> had two good hand position options, and one more forward but less 
> comfortable option.
> - The very upright position placed all my weight on the saddle, in a very 
> specific way. When I use drops, even when they are higher up, I find that 
> leaning forward (not bending down, leaning forward. It's different!) gives 
> me a few different ways to position my body on the saddle, which allows me 
> to ride comfortably for over 200km at a time. With the abla's I had 
> difficulty doing that and as a result would get a sore butt after a while. 
> - The WIND! Not sure where you live, but where I am from everything is 
> quite exposed. Riding with the alba's turns your body into a wall 
> basically. There is no hiding from the wind, no drops to drop into to 
> minimize the drag. Regardless if you don't care about going quickly, it's a 
> real drag to fight the wind tooth and nail all day while you're in a very 
> upright position (see what I did there..?)
> - bar interference - when riding trails, I found the fact that the bars 
> sweep back so far, they would hit my legs when trying to make tight turns. 
> For that reason they are never an option when trail riding anything other 
> than smooth flowy stuff. I had a few times when I couldn't make a corner 
> because the bars were in the way.
>
> Now, don't get me wrong, I LOVE these bars! They are my go-to winter bar 
> because they work very well with mitts. They are very stable on snow as 
> well. For booting around town, they'd be the best bar ever. For rides 
> around 100km where you don't give a hoot about how long it takes you, 
> fantastic bar! But if I was on an extended tour where I wanted to hit a 
> particular distance each day, and there was some exposure to the wind, I 
> would be hesitant to use 'em. Just my two cents!
>

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Re: [RBW] FS Sturmey Archer S3X and other bits

[Patrick Moore]

John: I'm waiting for a S3X wheel to be built, and I'm curious: what didn't
you like about yours?

On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 4:00 PM, 'john elliott' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> I have a Sturmey Archer S3X that I bought for my Rivendell Quickbeam.  Its
> put together with a Velocity Dyad rim with 36 spokes.  It comes with the
> bar end shifter and all of the small parts needed except the cable
> housing.  It was partly mounted but never ridden.  120mm spacing
>
> If you are in need of a more complete wheelset, I also have a 36 hole
> vintage but fully functional front wheel that could go with it.
>
> Another front wheel option I have is the suzue front hub from my original
> green quickbeam.  The rim from that wheel needed replacing so I pulled the
> hub out of the wheel, it's fully functional, but used of course.   I was
> thinking that it could be built up with a velocity dyad rim and be a match
> for the S3X on a quickbeam.  (though that's a 32 hole rim).
>
> I also have a brand new 700 c vittoria tire on the S3X with an old patched
> tube in it and I have 2 fairly worn out jack brown blue tires that are
> still somewhat usable that I'm willing to throw in if anyone wants them.
>
> I also have a nitto technomic deluxe stem that was used for a couple of
> hundred miles and has a ring around it from its use in the past, but is
> otherwise just about perfect.
>
> Maybe $20 for the stem.  $150 for the S3X, and I'll throw in the tube and
> tire that's on it.  I'll throw in the front wheel too for another $25.
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Mark Reimer]

I found the Albatross bars on my Atlantis not really ideal for long 
distance for a few reasons:

- When riding at a casual pace, they are supremely comfortable. Very 
'chill' one could say. I had them setup about 1cm above my saddle height. I 
had two good hand position options, and one more forward but less 
comfortable option.
- The very upright position placed all my weight on the saddle, in a very 
specific way. When I use drops, even when they are higher up, I find that 
leaning forward (not bending down, leaning forward. It's different!) gives 
me a few different ways to position my body on the saddle, which allows me 
to ride comfortably for over 200km at a time. With the abla's I had 
difficulty doing that and as a result would get a sore butt after a while. 
- The WIND! Not sure where you live, but where I am from everything is 
quite exposed. Riding with the alba's turns your body into a wall 
basically. There is no hiding from the wind, no drops to drop into to 
minimize the drag. Regardless if you don't care about going quickly, it's a 
real drag to fight the wind tooth and nail all day while you're in a very 
upright position (see what I did there..?)
- bar interference - when riding trails, I found the fact that the bars 
sweep back so far, they would hit my legs when trying to make tight turns. 
For that reason they are never an option when trail riding anything other 
than smooth flowy stuff. I had a few times when I couldn't make a corner 
because the bars were in the way.

Now, don't get me wrong, I LOVE these bars! They are my go-to winter bar 
because they work very well with mitts. They are very stable on snow as 
well. For booting around town, they'd be the best bar ever. For rides 
around 100km where you don't give a hoot about how long it takes you, 
fantastic bar! But if I was on an extended tour where I wanted to hit a 
particular distance each day, and there was some exposure to the wind, I 
would be hesitant to use 'em. Just my two cents!





On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 8:27:34 AM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
> Matthew, any pics of your bike loaded up, epecially the rear low rider. 
> Thanks, Steve
>
> On Friday, June 19, 2015, Matthew J > 
> wrote:
>
>> My tour bike has Albatross bars.  Set up with top of the stem slightly 
>> above the saddle and the bars angled slightly down.  This bike uses fore 
>> and aft low rider racks.  Other than my corpse and a small saddle bag to 
>> store my wallet, snack, and a map, no non-bike weight above the top of the 
>> rim.  
>>
>> Longest tour I've done with this set up is 10 days, average 70 miles per 
>> day.  Experienced no wrist pain or muscle strain.  My right shoulder 
>> sometimes got a little sore, but this also happens on longer rides on my 
>> drops equipped road bike.  
>>
>> On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 11:41:00 PM UTC-5, Daniel D. wrote:
>>>
>>> Day Dreaming about how I would build up a sam.  Thinking about why I 
>>> want the sam realized it would be for fun long rides.  If I'm running 
>>> errands I'd use my cheaper bikes.  Loaded touring I have a bike for that.  
>>> Are drop bars a safer bet for long distance riding?   Don't have much 
>>> experience with upright bars.  Seems like the upright bars limit the 
>>> options for hand position.  
>>>
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>
>
> -- 
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> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Steven Sweedler]

Matthew, any pics of your bike loaded up, epecially the rear low rider.
Thanks, Steve

On Friday, June 19, 2015, Matthew J  wrote:

> My tour bike has Albatross bars.  Set up with top of the stem slightly
> above the saddle and the bars angled slightly down.  This bike uses fore
> and aft low rider racks.  Other than my corpse and a small saddle bag to
> store my wallet, snack, and a map, no non-bike weight above the top of the
> rim.
>
> Longest tour I've done with this set up is 10 days, average 70 miles per
> day.  Experienced no wrist pain or muscle strain.  My right shoulder
> sometimes got a little sore, but this also happens on longer rides on my
> drops equipped road bike.
>
> On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 11:41:00 PM UTC-5, Daniel D. wrote:
>>
>> Day Dreaming about how I would build up a sam.  Thinking about why I want
>> the sam realized it would be for fun long rides.  If I'm running errands
>> I'd use my cheaper bikes.  Loaded touring I have a bike for that.  Are drop
>> bars a safer bet for long distance riding?   Don't have much experience
>> with upright bars.  Seems like the upright bars limit the options for hand
>> position.
>>
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Plymouth, New Hampshire

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[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Matthew J]

My tour bike has Albatross bars.  Set up with top of the stem slightly 
above the saddle and the bars angled slightly down.  This bike uses fore 
and aft low rider racks.  Other than my corpse and a small saddle bag to 
store my wallet, snack, and a map, no non-bike weight above the top of the 
rim.  

Longest tour I've done with this set up is 10 days, average 70 miles per 
day.  Experienced no wrist pain or muscle strain.  My right shoulder 
sometimes got a little sore, but this also happens on longer rides on my 
drops equipped road bike.  

On Thursday, June 18, 2015 at 11:41:00 PM UTC-5, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Day Dreaming about how I would build up a sam.  Thinking about why I want 
> the sam realized it would be for fun long rides.  If I'm running errands 
> I'd use my cheaper bikes.  Loaded touring I have a bike for that.  Are drop 
> bars a safer bet for long distance riding?   Don't have much experience 
> with upright bars.  Seems like the upright bars limit the options for hand 
> position.  
>

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[RBW] Re: How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Garth]

   Bars are bars , how you choose to use them is infinite :)   So is 
the frame , infinite ways to set one up .   So no one can fully answer your 
question but you , *know thyself *!   

   Think about pictures of Sam frames or Alba bars .  It seems most set 
them up all similar ways on the surface, but really no 2 are even close to 
alike . Weight distribution is something that rarely if ever gets talked 
about .  How you feel centered in the bike. It revolves around your core , 
if you take your hands off the bars briefly does it feel balanced 
front-to-rear ?  When it's "right" your arms and hands are extensions more 
for guidance, not support.  You can't really even put it into words, and 
you can't tell anyone what is good for them , you can only make suggestions 
if they ask for input because something doesn't feel right to them . 

 Just because a bar is mislabeled as "upright" does not mean that is 
it's limitation.  You can use mtb or reverse brake levers. Many different 
shifters . Different angles, tapes , etc.  Set the high or low, near or far 
.  Same with a given frame .  Whatever works for you :)  


On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 12:41:00 AM UTC-4, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Day Dreaming about how I would build up a sam.  Thinking about why I want 
> the sam realized it would be for fun long rides.  If I'm running errands 
> I'd use my cheaper bikes.  Loaded touring I have a bike for that.  Are drop 
> bars a safer bet for long distance riding?   Don't have much experience 
> with upright bars.  Seems like the upright bars limit the options for hand 
> position.  
>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

ps - both the 26 and 38 were wet rides with TS Bill fallout, and wet sandy 
pavement always loads you down


On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 7:06:00 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> fair enough - I tweaked my knee on the 26-mi ride earlier this week. 
> climbing hard and steady against that headwind.  So I started out the 38-mi 
> ride with a tweaked knee.  I did eat a motrin at my water stops, but made 
> the ride without knee pain and, particularly nice, no saddle, shoulder or 
> wrist numbness.  
>
>
>>  

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

fair enough - I tweaked my knee on the 26-mi ride earlier this week. 
climbing hard and steady against that headwind.  So I started out the 38-mi 
ride with a tweaked knee.  I did eat a motrin at my water stops, but made 
the ride without knee pain and, particularly nice, no saddle, shoulder or 
wrist numbness.  

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 6:44:32 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>  On 06/19/2015 07:31 AM, Ron Mc wrote:
>  
> (challenging others on the forum is not cool) 
>
>   
>>> When you say "long rides," what sort of distance do you have in mind?   
>>> Was that 38 mile ride a long ride? 
>>>
>>> 
>
> That's not a challenge, it's a request for information, to understand your 
> frame of reference.   
>
>
>  

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 06/19/2015 07:31 AM, Ron Mc wrote:

(challenging others on the forum is not cool)


When you say "long rides," what sort of distance do you have
in mind?
Was that 38 mile ride a long ride?




That's not a challenge, it's a request for information, to understand 
your frame of reference.



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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 06/19/2015 07:29 AM, Ron Mc wrote:
Steve, I've ridden 55 and 65 mi on this bike this year, but a 38 mi 
ride is enough to find those little annoying circulation pinches.
Long is relative.  Especially on an upright, add a good headwind 
(18-22 kt earlier this week) and 26 mi is a long ride.


I totally agree with that.  It's all about your frame of reference. This 
year, the randonneuring lists were all about getting ready for 
Paris-Brest-Paris, and 1200 km randonnees; and fine tuning position 
based on a 40 mile ride won't necessarily provide answers that will hold 
up at that kind of distance - or, in my experience, even to the 80 - 100 
mile range, never mind brevet distances.


Not that I'm suggesting I could do centuries on an upright, regardless 
of the wind.   I can't.  For me, uprights are strictly short-range.


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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

(challenging others on the forum is not cool)


>> When you say "long rides," what sort of distance do you have in mind?   
>> Was that 38 mile ride a long ride? 
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

Steve, I've ridden 55 and 65 mi on this bike this year, but a 38 mi ride is 
enough to find those little annoying circulation pinches.  
Long is relative.  Especially on an upright, add a good headwind (18-22 kt 
earlier this week) and 26 mi is a long ride.  

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 6:22:17 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 06/19/2015 07:04 AM, Ron Mc wrote: 
> > Pressure (eliminating it) is the entire key to riding distance. . When 
> > we were young, we didn't lean on the bars, we pulled on them.  Even 
> > now, we should be supporting ourselves with our core muscles, not our 
> > hands and shoulders.  I've ridden over 100 mi for the week - longest 
> > stint was 38 mi - all on my upright.  .Long rides are where you figure 
> > out those slight position tweaks that will solve the circulation 
> > pinches (numbness) that your adjustments are very close to dialing out. 
>
> When you say "long rides," what sort of distance do you have in mind?   
> Was that 38 mile ride a long ride? 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 06/19/2015 07:04 AM, Ron Mc wrote:
Pressure (eliminating it) is the entire key to riding distance. . When 
we were young, we didn't lean on the bars, we pulled on them.  Even 
now, we should be supporting ourselves with our core muscles, not our 
hands and shoulders.  I've ridden over 100 mi for the week - longest 
stint was 38 mi - all on my upright.  .Long rides are where you figure 
out those slight position tweaks that will solve the circulation 
pinches (numbness) that your adjustments are very close to dialing out. 


When you say "long rides," what sort of distance do you have in mind?  
Was that 38 mile ride a long ride?



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Re: [RBW] How are albatross and albastache bars for long distance riding?

[Ron Mc]

Pressure (eliminating it) is the entire key to riding distance. . When we 
were young, we didn't lean on the bars, we pulled on them.  Even now, we 
should be supporting ourselves with our core muscles, not our hands and 
shoulders.  I've ridden over 100 mi for the week - longest stint was 38 mi 
- all on my upright.  .Long rides are where you figure out those slight 
position tweaks that will solve the circulation pinches (numbness) that 
your adjustments are very close to dialing out.  Not this week, but a few 
weeks ago the adjustment I was making was rotating the bar ends up, then 
adjusting the overall height back down on the stem.  Last adjustments were 
the opposite, as I'm slowly zeroing in on perfect wrist angles.  

The way my upright is set up, I have two hand positions.  The first is the 
equivalent of hooks, the second is slightly wider on the grips.  

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 12:22:33 AM UTC-5, Michael Williams wrote:
>
>  and this takes pressure off hands/ wrists and Im not really wanting 
> to move my hands around all the time.  
>

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