[RBW] Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Joe Bernard]

All the advice is good, but the "buy another Riv" advice is best, in my 
opinion. Practically every bike they make now - and most you'll find used - can 
run bigger tires than the Ram. The Sam and new AHH are raging deals for what 
you get, and you can save that increasingly rare Rambouillet for fast pavement 
jaunts on summer days.  

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[RBW] How do Rivendells fare fenderless on dry salty winter roads?

[Lum Gim Fong]

Yes, fenderless.

I grow increasingly concerned, over  the years, of front end wrecks due to the 
possibility of fender or rack failures as I have read about them happenning, 
and now the latest blagh post. I meticulously mount fenders so as to be as 
in-built stress free as poss. But I still wonder if one day the clock will run 
out.

So I have stopped riding with fenders and racks and find that a nice banana sax 
and bartube or Brooks Milford are good enough for my load carrying and no need 
for racks/fenders.

But I cringe at the thought of riding fenderless on salty winter roads on my 
Rambouillet. I only ride dry roads in winter, and around here that means white 
with dry salt.

If you have run your Rivs fenderless on dry salty roads, how have they fared?

Thanks for relating your experiences!

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Lum Gim Fong]

PS- that Compass one only keeps the pins from jumping out if you hit a big bump.

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Lum Gim Fong]

I have one from them for pearl stems.
But i am talking about a bar that comes from stem to backstop to block the rack 
from moving forward.

A regular decaleur could do this, utilizing the bag as the blocker of the 
backstop (since top o bag is held to stem by decaler) unless the backstop is 
able to push the bottom of the bag out of the way.

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Collin A]

Lum, I believe Compass cycles makes what you are describing:
https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/stems-decaleurs/compass-decaleur/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Collin A]

I agree, Patrick, definitely not as pretty as the Nitto. Part of the high 
load rating for the Tubus (and most rear racks for that matter) is that 
most of the load is transferred vertically to the eyelet bolts near the hub 
rather than the clamped on strut at the top. The Nitto front (or any 
rando-style rack) has to transfer almost all of its load horizontally to 
the connection points and thus the load is amplified by that distance from 
the connection, yielding a lower maximum load.

2.2 lb-*force* per Kg, small but important note :)

I wish we all just used SI...

>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Lum Gim Fong]

I would love to see RBW make a “decailer” (MUSA spelling there, or “D-kaler”) 
that would hold the rack up even in the event of a fork crown attachment 
failure. Keep it stem bolt mounted and a tight pin fit like the “Nitto for 
Pearl stem” decailers have, but then RBW could get the guys at NITTO to add a 
welded on bar from the U-shaped pin holder that snaps onto the rack’s backstop 
so even if the FC attachment bolt failed, the decailer would block it from 
moving forward. And yes, you could load up and carry as much kale as you wanted 
on your Wald basquetted rack and D-kaler.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Patrick Moore]

The mfr's load limit for the Fly was indeed 20 kg, or 44 lb -- 2.2 lb to
the kg; I was confused. I did max it out once or twice.

Not nearly as pretty as one of the Nittos though.

Presently using Chauncey Matthews customs; probably less strong than the
Tubuses but again, no breakage yet.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 9:20 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> The no longer made Tubus Fly was rated at 22 kg, iirc, or 44 lb. Perhaps
> it was 20 kg. It weighed 11 oz and attached with single, clamped-on strut
> at the rear caliper mounting bolt. Pretty clear weight of rack to weight of
> load limit ratio. I used them for 20 years, almost, on many bikes, as
> described. I know that Tubus is a make of choice for dedicated loaded
> tourers, but I can't speak of failure rates. I just never had one fail, nor
> heard of anyone else having one fail.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 9:11 PM, Collin A 
> wrote:
>
>> Ron, the *static* weight of the load is always 10 times its mass (when
>> working in SI, otherwise its 32.2 times the mass in slugs). The dynamic
>> weight of your load is whatever your 12-pack of beer (about 4.5 Kg) is
>> accelerating at (relative to gravity) just as it hits the basket again;
>> Therefore, the total loading is that static load plus the dynamic load. A
>> good load rating takes into account an assumed maximum dynamic load along
>> with a static load and then factors it down to account for defects or other
>> unknowns.
>>
>> I know Tubus (as an example) rates their load for masses in Kg and us
>> 'mericans usually rate our racks in lb-force (or at last I hope so because
>> nobody measures stuff in lb-mass, i.e. slugs!), so you'll need to convert
>> to compare apples-to-apples and this can lead to the lower rating that
>> nitto/Riv provides. Their 4.4 lbf max is about 2 Kg, or about 2 liters of
>> beer (just under a 6-pack), which seems reasonable given the size and how
>> the struts connect to the fork. The static capacity is likely HUGE in
>> comparison and I'd imagine lots of folks could sit on it while the bike
>> *isn't* bouncing down a hill (that is *NOT* an invitation to try it...)
>>
>> Patrick, I'm speculating that typically the connections (welds, bolts,
>> brazes, etc) fail rather than the steel members failing by shear or
>> buckling, unless nitto uses super thin walled steel/aluminum. So as long as
>> the connections are burly enough (huge/a lot of bolts, or multiple weld
>> beads), the rack is made from a single piece of tubing (to minimize the
>> number of welds/connections you would make), and mounted as close to the
>> fork as possible (I'll cover moments in another post), the rack should
>> handle large static loads without excessive distress.
>>
>> Benz, I have since learned that lesson, I'm all about those nord-locks
>> now :)
>>
>> Sorry for the lecture,
>> Collin A
>>
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>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Chirping rear hub

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

To eliminate sounds from the valve stem, you can cut a small hole (or slice 
an "X") in a 1.5-2" section of electric tape, slide the stem through the 
hole, and stick the tape on the rim. But I see you're running tubeless, so 
this may not apply to you as tubeless valve stems are generally quite 
firmly affixed.

Most Shimano rear hubs, including the 6700 series, use nine 1/4" balls per 
side; the fronts use eleven 3/16" balls per side. These can be easily found 
at well-equipped bike shops, or even eBay. I believe the standard is Grade 
25 , and as a guide, 
Enduro is selling a pack of 100 for about $6  ($10 
with shipping); they are inexpensive. Or you can go totally nuts and buy 
Grade 5 ceramics. :)


On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 6:53:33 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> The hub is an ultegra 6700... Thanks everyone for the things to go check!
>
> So tonight I got the wheel in the truing stand and double checked each 
> spoke/nipple and lubed each one... Nothing stood out.  Aside from checking 
> that the valve stem isn't rocking or loose how else do you eliminate it as 
> a contributor?
>
> The babyshoe pass EL tires are mounted tubeless so I guess next step is to 
> strip down, reseat the valve and remount the tire.  
>
> Patrick where do you get your ball bearing replacements for wheel 
> servicing?  How often are folks fully rebuilding a rear hub like this?  
>
> Thanks again for all the input!
>
> Tony
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Patrick Moore]

The no longer made Tubus Fly was rated at 22 kg, iirc, or 44 lb. Perhaps it
was 20 kg. It weighed 11 oz and attached with single, clamped-on strut at
the rear caliper mounting bolt. Pretty clear weight of rack to weight of
load limit ratio. I used them for 20 years, almost, on many bikes, as
described. I know that Tubus is a make of choice for dedicated loaded
tourers, but I can't speak of failure rates. I just never had one fail, nor
heard of anyone else having one fail.



On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 9:11 PM, Collin A  wrote:

> Ron, the *static* weight of the load is always 10 times its mass (when
> working in SI, otherwise its 32.2 times the mass in slugs). The dynamic
> weight of your load is whatever your 12-pack of beer (about 4.5 Kg) is
> accelerating at (relative to gravity) just as it hits the basket again;
> Therefore, the total loading is that static load plus the dynamic load. A
> good load rating takes into account an assumed maximum dynamic load along
> with a static load and then factors it down to account for defects or other
> unknowns.
>
> I know Tubus (as an example) rates their load for masses in Kg and us
> 'mericans usually rate our racks in lb-force (or at last I hope so because
> nobody measures stuff in lb-mass, i.e. slugs!), so you'll need to convert
> to compare apples-to-apples and this can lead to the lower rating that
> nitto/Riv provides. Their 4.4 lbf max is about 2 Kg, or about 2 liters of
> beer (just under a 6-pack), which seems reasonable given the size and how
> the struts connect to the fork. The static capacity is likely HUGE in
> comparison and I'd imagine lots of folks could sit on it while the bike
> *isn't* bouncing down a hill (that is *NOT* an invitation to try it...)
>
> Patrick, I'm speculating that typically the connections (welds, bolts,
> brazes, etc) fail rather than the steel members failing by shear or
> buckling, unless nitto uses super thin walled steel/aluminum. So as long as
> the connections are burly enough (huge/a lot of bolts, or multiple weld
> beads), the rack is made from a single piece of tubing (to minimize the
> number of welds/connections you would make), and mounted as close to the
> fork as possible (I'll cover moments in another post), the rack should
> handle large static loads without excessive distress.
>
> Benz, I have since learned that lesson, I'm all about those nord-locks now
> :)
>
> Sorry for the lecture,
> Collin A
>
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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[dougP]

If you want to haul a 12 pack, a 5 lb salami, cooking gear, etc., get 
something from Surly.  

I've used the small Nitto front rack with the single pin that mounts thru 
the fork crown and welded on legs (non-adjustable) that attach the fork 
blades on my Atlantis for well over 10 years.  All the nuts are Nylok and 
the bag is an original size Acorn rando bag.  Stuffed to the max it's maybe 
6-8 lbs.

The flat plate used to attach the adjustable racks could be failure prone.  
The various bends made to achieve fit could set up stress risers.  Attach a 
large basked to the rack, load up with a hefty load and go bouncing down a 
rough road, and yes, I can see that plate failing over time.  Prudence 
would dictate a conservative approach.  Failure is a poor option.  

dougP.

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 4:16:51 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>
> GRANTS BLAHG 
> 
>
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Collin A]

Ron, the *static* weight of the load is always 10 times its mass (when 
working in SI, otherwise its 32.2 times the mass in slugs). The dynamic 
weight of your load is whatever your 12-pack of beer (about 4.5 Kg) is 
accelerating at (relative to gravity) just as it hits the basket again; 
Therefore, the total loading is that static load plus the dynamic load. A 
good load rating takes into account an assumed maximum dynamic load along 
with a static load and then factors it down to account for defects or other 
unknowns.

I know Tubus (as an example) rates their load for masses in Kg and us 
'mericans usually rate our racks in lb-force (or at last I hope so because 
nobody measures stuff in lb-mass, i.e. slugs!), so you'll need to convert 
to compare apples-to-apples and this can lead to the lower rating that 
nitto/Riv provides. Their 4.4 lbf max is about 2 Kg, or about 2 liters of 
beer (just under a 6-pack), which seems reasonable given the size and how 
the struts connect to the fork. The static capacity is likely HUGE in 
comparison and I'd imagine lots of folks could sit on it while the bike 
*isn't* bouncing down a hill (that is *NOT* an invitation to try it...)

Patrick, I'm speculating that typically the connections (welds, bolts, 
brazes, etc) fail rather than the steel members failing by shear or 
buckling, unless nitto uses super thin walled steel/aluminum. So as long as 
the connections are burly enough (huge/a lot of bolts, or multiple weld 
beads), the rack is made from a single piece of tubing (to minimize the 
number of welds/connections you would make), and mounted as close to the 
fork as possible (I'll cover moments in another post), the rack should 
handle large static loads without excessive distress. 

Benz, I have since learned that lesson, I'm all about those nord-locks now 
:)

Sorry for the lecture,
Collin A

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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Where does it rub, if you tried putting larger tires? Going from 539 to 559 
changes the reach, but may not magically offer more room for bigger tires. 
I ask this because I suspect your issue is crowding from the bottom side of 
the brake arms. If this is the case, you should consider changing brake 
type (to centerpulls like what others had suggested). If workable, changing 
to centerpulls is much quicker and cheaper than brazing on new cantilever 
bosses.



On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:33:52 PM UTC-7, Mike K. wrote:
>
> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm 
> currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's 
> wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger 
> tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the 
> current setup won't allow it.
>
> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37 
> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts, 
> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even 
> switch to 650b.
>
> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different frame 
> and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on what 
> I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go bigger 
> than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and just 
> need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!
>
> Any and all thoughts welcome.
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 6:20:52 PM UTC-7, Collin A wrote:
>
>
> Lesson: Check those rack bolts often and have a backup in the form of the 
> manny strap (at least until Riv solves all of our basketed-rack-woes)
>

For critical applications, one may want to consider using Nord-lock washers 
 to mitigate bolt loosening. 
These are better than "blue" Loctite, especially as Loctite's effectiveness 
depends on proper prep procedure (i.e., parts must be clean and dry) that 
not too many of us follow.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Patrick Moore]

Also, we, or at least I, don't know the conditions under which the Nitto
racks in question failed. Me, I have carried quite heavy loads (for such
light racks) but for no more than 10 or 15 miles 1-way, and generally half
that or even less; and all this on paved roads.

Still, I do wonder at the low official Nitto load limits.

An ex-frame builder told me he built a minmalist 8 oz chromo rack, chromed,
for his wife that was (his statement, and he's not used to making
extravagant statements) strong enough to carry him, at 200+. He didn't
mention a basket, though.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 7:45 PM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> The problem with rating racks is their static load tolerance can look
> humongous (while their proper rating looks silly small), but in the dynamic
> situation of a bouncing bicycle, the weight of that load becomes 10 times
> its mass.
>
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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ryan M.]

Yeah, I'm not really sure on that. It's certainly "the thing to do" 
nowadays though. 

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:02:58 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Remind me why we're piling cargo on top of a rolling wheel that's also 
> steering?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[iamkeith]

Also remember that the decal sets are all gone.  So, if you wanted to repaint 
after brazing on canti posts, it's not going to say "rambouillet."

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Joe Bernard]

Remind me why we're piling cargo on top of a rolling wheel that's also steering?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Tommy Patterson]

Anyone converted a Ram to 650b using Paul racers? If so, will it clear a
42mm tire with fenders?

Thanks,
Tommy

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 8:46 PM Leslie  wrote:

> If you switch your 539s out with 559's, you should be able to adjust it
> enough to get the pads to fit 650b's, could go w/ 42's. (That's what I did
> with my Ram:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/8351735340/in/album-72157623199721925/
> )
>
> You could try sidepulls instead, not a bad route, wouldn't require a 650b
> wheelset.
>
> If neither of those float your boat:   I would suggest looking for a
> canti-Rom:  it's almost a Ram, there are some out there w/ canti's, lets
> you run a bigger tire.  I'm running 700cx40 MSO's on mine:
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/16004557507/in/album-72157623199721925/
> (caveat:  it's REALLY close on clearance!  Less than a 40 would be prudent.
> )
>
> Actually, thinking along those lines...   if sidepulls or a 650b swap
> doesn't do it, you might really want to consider a AHH... I know, you said
> you didn't want another frame, but, maybe another frame would work better.
> There's the new ones coming in from elsewhere, or, maybe a used AHH, or, a
> Sam
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 3:33:52 PM UTC-4, Mike K. wrote:
>>
>> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm
>> currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's
>> wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger
>> tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the
>> current setup won't allow it.
>>
>> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37
>> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts,
>> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even
>> switch to 650b.
>>
>> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different
>> frame and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on
>> what I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go
>> bigger than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and
>> just need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!
>>
>> Any and all thoughts welcome.
>>
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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Leslie]

If you switch your 539s out with 559's, you should be able to adjust it 
enough to get the pads to fit 650b's, could go w/ 42's. (That's what I did 
with my 
Ram: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/8351735340/in/album-72157623199721925/
 
)

You could try sidepulls instead, not a bad route, wouldn't require a 650b 
wheelset.

If neither of those float your boat:   I would suggest looking for a 
canti-Rom:  it's almost a Ram, there are some out there w/ canti's, lets 
you run a bigger tire.  I'm running 700cx40 MSO's on 
mine:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/16004557507/in/album-72157623199721925/
 
(caveat:  it's REALLY close on clearance!  Less than a 40 would be prudent. 
) 

Actually, thinking along those lines...   if sidepulls or a 650b swap 
doesn't do it, you might really want to consider a AHH... I know, you said 
you didn't want another frame, but, maybe another frame would work better.  
There's the new ones coming in from elsewhere, or, maybe a used AHH, or, a 
Sam   



On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 3:33:52 PM UTC-4, Mike K. wrote:
>
> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm 
> currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's 
> wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger 
> tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the 
> current setup won't allow it.
>
> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37 
> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts, 
> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even 
> switch to 650b.
>
> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different frame 
> and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on what 
> I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go bigger 
> than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and just 
> need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!
>
> Any and all thoughts welcome.
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ron Mc]

The problem with rating racks is their static load tolerance can look 
humongous (while their proper rating looks silly small), but in the dynamic 
situation of a bouncing bicycle, the weight of that load becomes 10 times 
its mass.  

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Collin A]

I've had a heavily loaded, but not overloaded, front rack fail on me once, 
albeit not a Nitto and it was partially mounted to the eyelets at the fork. 
It basically pivoted around the hub and caught the front wheel on the 
downswing, jammed the wheel, and almost sent me over the handlebars 
(luckily I was going relatively slow). The bolts (I theorize) got loosened 
over time and after countless hours rough descents. 

Lesson: Check those rack bolts often and have a backup in the form of the 
manny strap (at least until Riv solves all of our basketed-rack-woes)

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Re: [RBW] Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Leslie]

Yeah, I use a Tubus rear rack on the front of my Bomba as my Wald carrier 
(well, there's a Platrack between the two, to keep the basket more stiff... 
my intent was leave the basket/platrack as a combo, to come on and off the 
rack as needed, but, have gotten to where I usually just leave it 
anymore...)



On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 8:28:34 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> There's always Tubus ...
>
> Patrick Moore, overloading Tubus Flys since 1996. (But not using baskets.)
>
>
> -- 
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> **
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[RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[Joe Bernard]

"You should keep this for a long time."

Definitely fer sure! 來

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[RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[Collin A]

Nice build! If not for the skinnier wheels, it almost looks like an 80's 
MTB (and speaking of MTB, September 12th...)

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Adam Leibow]

i wonder just how catastrophic or dangerous these rack failures are for the 
rider. if you think about it, a rack falling into the spinning front wheel 
would be shot forward with the rotation of the tire. i'm not saying i'd 
want this to happen but i can't picture a strut breaking causing the rack 
to fall and put so much downforce on the front wheel as to cause it to stop 
and buck a rider OTB. also, if using a mark's rack with 4 struts, the 
diving board, AND the manny strap, one or even two strut's worth of failure 
might not even be that costly or catastrophic (if all you have to replace 
are broken struts and, at worst, a tire). this being said i look forward to 
their answer to this problem. the way i read the post, mostly it's the M12 
that's the culprit. 

this all being said, i've loaded up my mark's rack and 32F with dangerous 
amounts of weight many times, and luckily i haven't had a problem. maybe 
i'm a good candidate for a basket-specific rack. 

adam

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 4:16:51 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>
> GRANTS BLAHG 
> 
>
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[Paul Choi]

It looks great. You should keep this for a long time :)

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[RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[Joe Bernard]

Well that's a dang nice bike. My first Riv was a Romulus and this felt 
instantly familiar, with the same light, springy feel. Does anyone make a 
better riding/steering bicycle than Grant/Riv? I think not! 

I started with the Boscos which of course make no sense at all, but it was good 
enough for a shakedown ride to dial in saddle height and tilt. Then I got home 
and started looking at the Bullmoose on my Clem and thought, "Ok, that's the 
other end of the spectrum. Let's see how that goes." So I threw it on thinking 
it doesn't fit the bike at all, but I'll have a better idea of what reaches 
work on this frame. Shazam! It's perfect slammed, with that "slammed look" 
being the point of buying this size frame. It feels great, and this mountain 
bikey bar looks a lot better on a road-ish Riv than I would have expected. I 
guess it's staying and the Bosco goes back on Mr. Smith.  

Let's talk about the color. The orange with white-ish details REALLY recalls 
the XO-1, doesn't it? It looks amazing!

Parts:
Unbranded I don't know wheels from my (now sold) Pashley, Grand Bois Cypré 700 
x 30 tires.
Precision Billet "CNC era" MUSA rear derailer, front will be an old Sachs New 
Success when it gets here.
Old 8-speed 12-24 Dura-Ace cassette, Sakae 28-40-50 cranks from a Bstone RB-T. 
This setup would have been known as a close ratio "racing triple" back in the 
two years we pretended this was a thing anybody cared about.
Brooks B17 ti. 
Sun Race 8-speed thumby, old D-A dt shifter for the front. 
Vintage NOS Dia-Compe levers, Ergon grips, Shimano whatever-Riv-sells brakes, 
the easiest brake setup I've ever met. Discs shmiscs!

I almost feel bad that Roadini is known for being a lower cost Riv road bike 
'cause it's freakin' great. You should buy one!


https://photos.app.goo.gl/YegrsnUcjpKLwNj98

Joe Bernard

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[RBW] WWT: Nitto Big Frot Rack for Mark's Hub with Hoop (or other cool lowrider front)

[ctifusion]

I should say front or rear rack.

Brynnar

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Re: [RBW] Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Patrick Moore]

There's always Tubus ...

Patrick Moore, overloading Tubus Flys since 1996. (But not using baskets.)


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[RBW] Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Ginz]

Save weight with cans and keep it down to a sixer. 

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[RBW] Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Joe Bernard]

There's also way too many crazies buying a cheaper Nitto rack Riv doesn't sell, 
then dropping a basket on it and tossing a 12-pack in there cuz gnarly bro. 
Don't be crazies. 

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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[travis.ha...@gmail.com]

I like John’s remark. Too often lost in the exact formula is appreciation of 
how little or how much variation there is. 

To OP: If your stem a quill type with an expander bolt, I don’t know why you 
wouldn’t look at other stems and measure distances to get estimates of minimum 
insertion for your custom stem. 

A Nitto-made stem I just measured expects 2 of 6 inches to be below the top 
nut. Would it be marked more conservatively if it were a 130mm stem instead of 
an 80mm (c to c) what with the potentially greater leverage?

Harry Travis
Portland,OR

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[RBW] Re: FS: Canvas Saddle Wedges.

[Adam Leibow]

hello david, i have frequently clicked on the link to your website and i'm 
perpetually impressed with the quality of the work. it is a hobby of mine 
to support smaller operations like yours appears to be, and my girlfriend 
never tires of rolling her eyes about [the never-ending growth of] my bike 
bag collection. however as a vegan i do not buy leather, & so i cordially 
suggest exploring offering vegan alternatives. i would have already bought 
one or two of these saddle wedges were there a vegan option, and i believe 
there is a market base for this option that is larger than myself alone. 
Or, if this option exists but is not listed on your site, please let me 
know & I'll buy a wedge!!! thanks & keep up the good work! 
-adam

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:06:24 PM UTC-7, David B wrote:
>
> Since a few of my early saddle wedges have popped up for sale recently, I 
> thought I'd let folks know that I still make these, with a bump up in 
> quality of materials since I began making these several years ago.
>
> Link here: 
> https://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-waxed-canvas
> I'll offer up free shipping to list members, use code LOCAL at checkout to 
> take off the shipping fee.
> Feel free to send me a message offlist if you're interested in a 
> fabric/leather combo not listed in the webstore.
> Thanks,
> David
> River Grove, IL
>
> Fabric options:
> Fairfield Textiles #8 water-repellent canvas: olive green, navy blue, 
> cinnamon brown, black 
> Fairfield Textiles' Martexin #10 waxed canvas: field tan, black
>
> Leather Options:
> Horween natural russet leather
> Horween chromexcel leather in: black, navy blue, natural (medium 
> brown-ish), dark brown, burgundy color 8
>

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[RBW] Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Bill Lindsay]

Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:

GRANTS BLAHG 


Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[John Hawrylak]

Not to counter the joe young web tool or Bills advice on a talking to a 
fitter, but  your distance would be shorten by the difference in stem 
length, see example below
Your state the bars are 3cm below the saddle.  Assume your saddle to stem 
CL distance is 65cm.  The horizontal saddle to stem CL distance is 

sqrt(65^2 - 3^2) or 64.9cm or 0.1cm (1mm) shorter than the 65cm actual 
distance. 

So the horizontal distance is the SAME as the Actual distance to within 
1mm.  

 You can substitute your actual distances in the equation to calculate the 
horizontal distance & see the difference, but the saddle to stem CL is soo 
much larger than the saddle to bar drop, that the larger distance 
prevails.  Even if the 65cm was 80cm, the horizontal is 80.1, and the 
difference is 0.1cm or 1mm.  

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

>
>
>

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[RBW] Morgan cars OT

[Eric Floden]

Someone mentioned them recently...and their was a sad incident in BC still
unfolding

http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/police-id-woman-missing-in-mudslide-near-cache-creek-1.4783695

Yikes

EricF
Ottawa Ont

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[RBW] 2 large Rivendell saddlebags for sale

[Joe Bernard]

That first one with the quick-releases looks like a Nigel Smythe Big Box. They 
must have prototyped one with a Baggins patch. 

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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Mike K.]

Thanks for the pics. That turned out great. That's probably the way to go. 
Less $, I don't have to go bikeless, and it doesn't permanently alter the 
frame.

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 2:56:33 PM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I would at least try 650b before brazing as it is an easily reverse-able 
> experiment, if you have the spare wheels.
>
> But you will need Thinline pads with R559 to reach the braking area of the 
> rim satisfactorily, IME.
> Or those Really long centerpulls Dia Compe makes.
>
> Braking feels fine to me with the R559's.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[phil k]

Why not grab some Paul Racers. Super good brakes.

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 3:33:52 PM UTC-4, Mike K. wrote:
>
> Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm 
> currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's 
> wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger 
> tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the 
> current setup won't allow it.
>
> So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37 
> tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts, 
> which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even 
> switch to 650b.
>
> Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different frame 
> and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on what 
> I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go bigger 
> than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and just 
> need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!
>
> Any and all thoughts welcome.
>

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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Lum Gim Fong]

I would at least try 650b before brazing as it is an easily reverse-able 
experiment, if you have the spare wheels.

But you will need Thinline pads with R559 to reach the braking area of the 
rim satisfactorily, IME.
Or those Really long centerpulls Dia Compe makes.

Braking feels fine to me with the R559's.

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[RBW] Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Ben Miller]

Some thoughts:

With some LR brakes, you should be able to fit Barlow Passes (I was able to). 
Or you could do a 650b conversion with the LR brakes and fit some 40's. 

I think the only benefit of adding post mounts would be less brake flex, but 
then I'd say go with post mounted centerpulls. Though maybe the canti's might 
offer a bit more in terms of fender room? Unclear how much though. 

If the Ram is you're only bike, consider that adding any posts is going to take 
your bike out of commission for a bit. 

Cheers,
Ben 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Tim Gavin]

Center pull brakes would maximize fender/tire clearance without requiring
brazing and paint.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 2:37 PM, Mike K.  wrote:

> Another question: should I maybe consider center pulls?
>
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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Lum Gim Fong]

Here it is 650b with tons of clearance.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/70237737@N00/zD46Mb

I tried 700 x 32 but fenders too close.
700 x 28 better but fall hazard as I get sub-28mm tires stuck in road 
cracks and crash.
So 32 minimum for me from now on.
or 650b x 42. 

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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Lum Gim Fong]

I ride my blue 53 Rambouillet 650b with Tektro R559 650b x 42 Compass 
tires. Kool Stp thinline pads for even extra reach for the braking track on 
rim. Same bb height as a 650b Bleriot with 38mm tires, so safe around 
corners . I use 170mm cranks.

No need  for braze-ons. Oodles of clearannce (~1.5-2cm all around tires ) 
with SKS P45 fenders.

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[RBW] Re: Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Mike K.]

Another question: should I maybe consider center pulls?

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[RBW] Adding Canti mounts to a Ram???

[Mike K.]

Gang, I love my blue Ram.  It rides well and it fits me just right. I'm 
currently rocking some 700c x 32 Panaracer tires, but after this weekend's 
wet and muddy ride, and with the Ram being my only bike, I want bigger 
tires, preferably some Barlow Pass or even Gravel King (SK?) but the 
current setup won't allow it.

So, I could switch from Tektro 539 to 559 and eek out a set of 700x37 
tires, OR I know a great frame builder who is open to adding canti mounts, 
which would open up some options for me to go fenders and 38's or even 
switch to 650b.

Again, I love the Ram, so I don't want to go out and get a different frame 
and try to tweak the fit, again. So I'm curious: what's your take on what 
I'm thinking about? Is the rear bridge even tall enough for me to go bigger 
than 38? is 650b a good fit with the Ram? Or am I freaking nuts and just 
need to throw some 35's on it, shut up, and keep riding?!

Any and all thoughts welcome.

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[RBW] FS: Canvas Saddle Wedges.

[David B]

Since a few of my early saddle wedges have popped up for sale recently, I 
thought I'd let folks know that I still make these, with a bump up in 
quality of materials since I began making these several years ago.

Link here: 
https://treetop.bigcartel.com/product/medium-saddle-wedge-waxed-canvas
I'll offer up free shipping to list members, use code LOCAL at checkout to 
take off the shipping fee.
Feel free to send me a message offlist if you're interested in a 
fabric/leather combo not listed in the webstore.
Thanks,
David
River Grove, IL

Fabric options:
Fairfield Textiles #8 water-repellent canvas: olive green, navy blue, 
cinnamon brown, black 
Fairfield Textiles' Martexin #10 waxed canvas: field tan, black

Leather Options:
Horween natural russet leather
Horween chromexcel leather in: black, navy blue, natural (medium 
brown-ish), dark brown, burgundy color 8

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[RBW] Re: Sackville Grab Sack and early Hobo bag for sale

[Ryan M.]

I'll take the grabsack. I'm sending you a pm...thanks. 

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:35:33 PM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
> The Grab sack is in excellent condition, used very little, is very well 
> made, $45 shipped
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/bags/products/sackville-grabsack-olive
> The Hobo bag has been used a lot, I added the leather when a seam started 
> to split, the two straps to attach to hanlebars or saddle loops are 
> included, $40 shipped
>
> -- 
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Velocity/Shimano Deore 650b wheelset - $275

[Doug Bloch]

Dropping price again, this time to $225. Someone please come and put them to 
use!

Doug

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[RBW] FS med. grey Sackville Saddlesack

[Carla Waugh]

This is the light grey grid.

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Re: [RBW] PSA: 58cm Hunqapillar on EBay

[Forrest Harvey]

Very nice!
I ended getting a BMC to fill this craving.  If the price were a bit lower
i'd bite!

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:14 AM, Gabriel Bruguier 
wrote:

>
> No affiliation, just temptation.
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/58cm-RIVENDELL-Hunqapillar-USED/
> 163200566602?hash=item25ff83054a%3Ag%3AyjwAAOSwE69bcbXI&_sacat=
> 7294&_nkw=rivendell&_from=R40=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.
> l1312.R1.TR11.TRC3.A0.H0.Xr.TRS1
>
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[RBW] PSA: 58cm Hunqapillar on EBay

[Gabriel Bruguier]

No affiliation, just temptation.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/58cm-RIVENDELL-Hunqapillar-USED/163200566602?hash=item25ff83054a%3Ag%3AyjwAAOSwE69bcbXI&_sacat=7294&_nkw=rivendell&_from=R40=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1312.R1.TR11.TRC3.A0.H0.Xr.TRS1
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Handmade Waxed Cotton Seat Bag

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Kurt:

It’s yours. PayPal me at my email address.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
@CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)

> On Aug 14, 2018, at 10:39 AM, 'Kurt Henry' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> Eric, I don't trust the private message system in google, but would love to 
> pick up your seat bag if not already claimed.
> Thanks!
> Kurt Henry
> Lancaster, PA
> 
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 1:05:15 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
> Another find from the Bike Room closet. Handmade waxed cotton (very waxy) 
> canvas and leather seat bag. Big enough to hold a couple of tubes and basic 
> roadside repair tools. Needs a leather toe strap or similar to attach it to 
> the seat. A slight amount of patina; no rips, tears, or holes.
> 
> $12 shipped in the CONUS.
> 
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com <>
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: Handmade Waxed Cotton Seat Bag

['Kurt Henry' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Eric, I don't trust the private message system in google, but would love to 
pick up your seat bag if not already claimed.
Thanks!
Kurt Henry
Lancaster, PA

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 1:05:15 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Another find from the Bike Room closet. Handmade waxed cotton (very waxy) 
> canvas and leather seat bag. Big enough to hold a couple of tubes and basic 
> roadside repair tools. Needs a leather toe strap or similar to attach it to 
> the seat. A slight amount of patina; no rips, tears, or holes.
>
> $12 shipped in the CONUS.
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
>

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[RBW] FS: Handmade Waxed Cotton Seat Bag

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Another find from the Bike Room closet. Handmade waxed cotton (very waxy) 
canvas and leather seat bag. Big enough to hold a couple of tubes and basic 
roadside repair tools. Needs a leather toe strap or similar to attach it to the 
seat. A slight amount of patina; no rips, tears, or holes.

$12 shipped in the CONUS.


--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
@CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)

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[RBW] WWT: Nitto Big Frot Rack for Mark's Hub with Hoop (or other cool lowrider front)

[ctifusion]

I'm not in love with the Big Front Rack on my MITlantis. I only need a 
front rack to occasionally take a laptop and a couple books to work in 
small panniers and the Bid Rack feels like overkill. I'm not planning to 
put a basket on the Atlantis either. I know the Hub/Hoop is pretty new so 
not sure if there are any around, but thought I'd check. I'd also consider 
a nice, classic low rider rack too (Tubis, Bruce Gordon?).

Brynnar 
Indy

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[RBW] FS: summer cleaning updated list

[Joe Bernard]

Michael, I sent a PM for the pods last week. Gimme a holler at joeremi62 at 
gmail dot com. 

Thanks,
Joe Bernard

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[RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[Joe Bernard]

Yep yep, it's here and I'm uncustomarily slowly getting it built. I injured 
myself last week and was kinda outta commission for a bit, but I'm ready to 
ride today so I'm connecting cables as we speak. The first pics will be with 
comically tall and reaching-back Boscos: I pulled them from my Clem and they're 
what I have, so I'm starting there to get a sense of what reach will work for 
new bars. Billie Bars? Maybe!

Stay tuned for the spectacular orange, which isn't all that sparkly. The 
(unintentional) match to XO-1 Construction Pumpkin is amazing!

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[RBW] FS med. grey Sackville Saddlesack

[Carla Waugh]

Grey medium Sackville Saddlesack in excellent condition 185.00 plus shipping. I 
can send pictures if you email me. Thanks

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[RBW] FS: summer cleaning updated list

[Michael Williams]

Hey all,  here’s an updated list,  still have some stuff for sale.  Prices 
include shipping,  thanks!-Mike


-Velo Orange Quill Stem with removable faceplate( brand new/ nickel finish) 
9cm/ 31.8 clamp. $68
- 2 Velo Orange long setback seatposts. 27.2   $35 each
-Shimano bar end shifter pods- $15
- Toppeak frame pump- 51.5cm long from end to end $12
- Shimano 105 front derailleur 28.6 clamp. $10

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[RBW] Re: Orange Roadini

[D Peters]

Congrats! Did your Orangini ship out yet?

I, myself, ordered a 50cm (80 PBH) last week and was thinking I might be 
able to size up to 54, but stuck with the posted guidelines instead. As I'm 
setting this up as more of a "road bike", I think I did the right thing.

Excited to see pics of your set up!

On Sunday, 5 August 2018 14:56:01 UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Check it out yo. I gots a 54 on the way. 
>
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BmFU_JNgx1N/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet=1bxl43isngx7v
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Headtube Sizes?

[Adam Adeane]

I've got a 58, and it's 170mm as you guessed.

Adam Adeane
Brooklyn, NY

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:29:05 PM UTC-4, Dave Grossman wrote:
>
> In order to help me ID a Quickbeam sizewise, can any owners help me 
> out?
>
> Can you tell me your respective headtube lengths for a 56, 58, and 60?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam Headtube Sizes?

[Glenn's Bike Garage]

My 58cm is 168mm.

Pauly
Stillwater, MN

>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Bill Lindsay]

Is it feasible for you to consult a competent bike-fitter?  Having a 
conversation and an in-person consultation with somebody who knows what 
they are doing and understands you and your use-case well would be a good 
investment. Also decide if your body today is exactly the body you want to 
have.  If you plan to ride more, get leaner, stronger and more flexible, 
you might want a fit that challenges you. If you are in the top condition 
and flexibility that you'll ever be, then you need it to fit perfectly 
right now. If you plan to get weaker and less flexible because of age, you 
might want to plan for that also. That consultation with a fitter could be 
invaluable. 

Also, some people say 'stretched out' to mean they have too much weight on 
their hands.  Counter-intuitively (for some) a fix to that can be sliding 
your saddle BACK and/or tilt it up.  This gets your weight back off your 
hands, even though it makes the saddle to bars distance greater.  Some 
iBobs slam their seat all the way back no matter what, even if they have a 
nice slack seat tube angle.  Too stretched out can mean your saddle is too 
far back and moving it forward shortens the distance to your bars and 
balances you over the bike.  Again, a fitter would see this.  

Best of luck

BL in EC

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:54:10 AM UTC-7, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles. It 
> currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below saddle 
> height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any room 
> for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's 
> handmade, there's no max height line...
>
> As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go on 
> the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure 
> it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio 
> which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it 
> by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched 
> out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Peter White]

Keep in mind when fitting your bike that you not only want it to fit well
while you're seated but also while you're standing and climbing a hill.
While when seated your reach to the handlebar may seem long, while standing
the forward position of the handlebar relative to the cranks is rarely long
enough. So you need to find that happy medium. See my article:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.php

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 11:28 AM Sean Steinle  wrote:

> David,
>
> That's fantastic! Thanks! Since it's a custom I'm not sure I can get ahold
> of my bikes actual angles, but I think I can ballpark it well enough.
>
> On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 10:07 AM, David B  wrote:
>
>> Hi Sean,
>> I use this tool to play around with stem reach/height.
>> http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
>> David
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:54:10 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles.
>>> It currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below
>>> saddle height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any
>>> room for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's
>>> handmade, there's no max height line...
>>>
>>> As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go
>>> on the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure
>>> it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio
>>> which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it
>>> by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched
>>> out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Sean Steinle]

David,

That's fantastic! Thanks! Since it's a custom I'm not sure I can get ahold
of my bikes actual angles, but I think I can ballpark it well enough.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 10:07 AM, David B  wrote:

> Hi Sean,
> I use this tool to play around with stem reach/height.
> http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
> David
>
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:54:10 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>>
>> I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles. It
>> currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below saddle
>> height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any room
>> for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's
>> handmade, there's no max height line...
>>
>> As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go
>> on the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure
>> it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio
>> which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it
>> by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched
>> out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?
>>
>>
>> --
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[RBW] Re: Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[David B]

Hi Sean,
I use this tool to play around with stem reach/height. 
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
David

On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:54:10 AM UTC-5, Sean Steinle wrote:
>
> I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles. It 
> currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below saddle 
> height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any room 
> for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's 
> handmade, there's no max height line...
>
> As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go on 
> the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure 
> it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio 
> which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it 
> by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched 
> out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Effect of reach from changing stem length vs raising/lowering

[Sean Steinle]

I'm feeling a bit too stretched out on my new rando bike with noodles. It 
currently has a 110cm stem, and the bars are a good 2 or 3 cms below saddle 
height. Can't raise the stem, it's a custom job and doesn't have any room 
for extenstion. At least not that I feel comfortable with. Since it's 
handmade, there's no max height line...

As I set out to buy a new stem, I'm wondering, how much shorter do I go on 
the stem if I plan to raise the bars to saddle height as well? I'm sure 
it's dependent on HA & SA, but I'm wondering if there is a ballpark ratio 
which says that raising your stem 1 cm is the same effect as shortening it 
by X. Any real world experience to help me out? When you feel too stretched 
out, do you focus on raising the bars or shortening the stem?


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Re: [RBW] Re: New additions to my site

[Christopher Wiggins]

Thank you Bob.  I'm doing what I love, and you can't ask for much more than
that.

Chris

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 10:25 AM Bob Lovejoy  wrote:

> Hi Chris,
>
> I am not really in the market for anything at the moment but I did want to
> let you know I think the site looks fantastic!  The work and the quality of
> that work you are doing really shows so thanks.  I am a little more mobile
> now (have been car-free, now with car, the ultimate bike accessory(!), for
> travel and adventures) so one day I will walk through your shop door.  It
> would be great to see Indianapolis and exploring is good...  Listening to
> your podcast even as I type.
>
> Thanks for the great work and shop!  Keep the faith...
>
> Bob Lovejoy
> Galesburg, IL
>
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[RBW] Re: New additions to my site

[Bob Lovejoy]

Hi Chris,

I am not really in the market for anything at the moment but I did want to 
let you know I think the site looks fantastic!  The work and the quality of 
that work you are doing really shows so thanks.  I am a little more mobile 
now (have been car-free, now with car, the ultimate bike accessory(!), for 
travel and adventures) so one day I will walk through your shop door.  It 
would be great to see Indianapolis and exploring is good...  Listening to 
your podcast even as I type.

Thanks for the great work and shop!  Keep the faith...

Bob Lovejoy
Galesburg, IL

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike report

[Toshi Takeuchi]

Hi all,

Thanks for the weight-saving tips and kind compliments.  I usually use
padded bike shorts or bibs for rides over 50 miles long.  For shorter rides
I'll usually use the MUSA shorts and knickers.  I did rides in the rain and
the fender coverage was excellent and I didn't notice spray going around
the sides or near the fender flap.  It was never an issue on my 650b
Rambouillet either...

Best,
Toshi


On Sat, Aug 11, 2018 at 4:14 PM RichS  wrote:

> Nice to see your bike again Toshi. It’s stunning. Well done on the long
> rides too!
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
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[RBW] New additions to my site

[Christopher Wiggins]

Thank you to everyone who has purchased a thing or two off our new site.  
While building a new website was a larger job than I had anticipated, 
adding all the stuff has proven to take even longer.  I'm slowly getting 
all the Sackville stuff added, and I recently added a couple of things that 
I thought some of you may be interested in.  

Ride on!

Chris Wiggins
A1 Cyclery

Hub Area Bags in Olive
https://a1cyclery.com/product/sackville-hub-area-bags-olive/

Hub Area Rack w/Hoop
https://a1cyclery.com/product/nitto-hub-area-rack-with-hoop-mf2/

Tan MultiSack (marked down!)
https://a1cyclery.com/product/sackville-multisack-tan/


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[RBW] Re: Chirping rear hub

[Kurt Manley]

I have fixed noisy valve stems by installing one of those little knurled 
nuts on the stem and snugging it down.

On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 6:53:33 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> The hub is an ultegra 6700... Thanks everyone for the things to go check!
>
> So tonight I got the wheel in the truing stand and double checked each 
> spoke/nipple and lubed each one... Nothing stood out.  Aside from checking 
> that the valve stem isn't rocking or loose how else do you eliminate it as 
> a contributor?
>
> The babyshoe pass EL tires are mounted tubeless so I guess next step is to 
> strip down, reseat the valve and remount the tire.  
>
> Patrick where do you get your ball bearing replacements for wheel 
> servicing?  How often are folks fully rebuilding a rear hub like this?  
>
> Thanks again for all the input!
>
> Tony
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: bits n stuff for Lilli's new bike

[phil k]

Hey Patch!

I got the Grand bois promenade handlebars, with Tektro inverse brake levers 
(http://www.cyclesgrandbois.com/SHOP/GB_PN.html).

I also have a 1x crankset - 38t Wolftooth Narrow wide onto a Sugino 165mm 
crank arms

Let me know if any of that interests you.

Thanks!

Phil 

Arlington, VA


On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 1:33:59 PM UTC-4, Patch T wrote:
>
> Howdy Bunch,
>
> (crosspost with 650b)
>
> My sweet Lilli (hello!) and I found an 87(?) Trek 330 Elance in her (very 
> small) size and are so excited to build up her first thoughtfully-assembled 
> and useful, well-fitted bicycle for general cruising around, errand 
> running, some commuting.
>
> We're in the market for used n newish things; thought we would check here 
> (and there) first. Pretty open to anything with great function and life 
> still. Beausage is just fine.
>
> -- albatross bars or left-bank 
> -- mtn brake levers
> -- thumb shifters
> -- crankset (really not sure if we will do 1x or 2x; something that can do 
> both)
> -- platform pedals (lambdas?)
> -- long reach caliper brakes for 650b 
> -- 650b wheelset (maybe... I have one we can use but open to a good price 
> on a budgety, *lightweight *set; no heavy loads and she's light herself)
> -- Brooks saddle? wide, sprung or not
> -- Wald 137 with struts still intact
>
> Sure we're missing some things but this is a good head start. Let us know 
> what you've got!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Patch & Lilli
> BK/NY
>

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[RBW] WTB: bits n stuff for Lilli's new bike

[Fullylugged]

Be mindful of the rear dropout spacing on your bike. It's 126 and it can spread 
to 130 okay by hand.  Many 650B wheelsets in THIS group and the 650B list are 
built on Deore or similar hubs which run 135 and won't fit in your bike. My '84 
660 has 650B Velocity Aerohead rims on old Japanese 126/100 FW hubs. Since that 
bike is really surplus now that I've built up a wonderful new-to-me Waterford, 
I'll part out the wheels and long reach Tektro brakes if you have an interest, 
along with my used spare pair of MKS Lambdas (Grip Kings in RBW parlance) or 
Gimli hatchets as they were once called. Message me if interested.

Bruce

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[RBW] FS: 64cm Toyo Atlantis $1,800

[MartyG]

Deal pending. 

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[RBW] 60cm Cheviot first impressions & pics

[Kiley Demond]

Enjoy.

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[RBW] Re: 60cm Cheviot first impressions & pics

[Kiley Demond]

I had the exact same reaction! I thought, how can that have been my bike? I had 
so much stuff on it...

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