[RBW] Two Riv-model specific cycling caps For Sale

[Bill Lindsay]

I tend to always buy whatever Riv has on the shelves, in anticipation of 
needing that thing eventually.  Sometimes this includes grabbing an extra 
few rolls of Newbaums, and sometimes it means grabbing a cycling cap.  

Two of these impulse buy Riv caps popped up in my cycling cap box, and I'm 
pretty sure I won't ever wear them, because they are model-specific and I 
don't own these models.  I've tried them on, but otherwise they are new.

For Sale is a nice green Cheviot cap, and a Brown Clem Smith Junior cap.  
They are both Pace Brand MUSA.  They both fit over my quite large 7-7/8 hat 
size head, albeit with a stretchy hug from the wide sweatband.  $25 each, 
local pickup, $30 each shipped.  

Flickr photos
https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/51918611151
https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/51919231000

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: F Pitlock Wheel Skewers

[Peter Adler]

General FYI: SOMA's had several different Pitlock sets on sale for months:

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/pitlock-security-set-2-keys-5291?category=2790

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/33888-pitlock-set-13-lamp-holder-3689?page=2=2790

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/pitlock-security-set-1-key-2882?page=2=2790

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/338850-pitlock-set-sh90-single-shimano-dynamo-3691?page=2=2790

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/338855-pitlock-set-sh38-single-shimano-int-hub-3690?page=2=2790

Peter Adler
Berkeley, CA/USA

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Re: [RBW] Cantilever brakes on a CLEM smith L?

[Mackenzy Albright]

good information here!  I built an old apollo mixte mtb for my girlfriend 
and remember using one of those little pulleys. Not terribly complicated 
and they look kind of neat. I still need to find a wheelset before I get 
too ahead of myself - maybe I'll go for a quick rummage at the COOP one of 
these days. 


On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 3:35:12 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I've set up cantis on a frame with very long head and steerer tubes; the 
> frame is only a 58 c-c but it is designed for 26" wheels, so the head and 
> steerer are quite long. I found that cheaper, Tektro CR720s did make the 
> fork shudder, though I fixed the problem by an almost ridiculous amount of 
> pad toe-in; this of course made braking a bit weaker. I replaced the 
> Tektros with Paul Neo Retros, same straddle cable in fact, and the shudder 
> is so minimal and occasional that it doesn't bother me, who tend to fret 
> about such things. The pads (same salmons) are now toed in normally.
>
> My experience with Mafac cantis, both that designed for single bikes and 
> the tandem version with longer arms is that they aren't particularly 
> powerful -- at least, I couldn't get them so -- and that there's no toe-in 
> provision. Adding it all up, if I were you, I'd certainly give it a try, 
> but I'd be prepared to look for replacements too.
>
> For record, the fork in question was not drilled for a crown-mounted 
> housing stop.
>
> On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 11:50 AM Mackenzy Albright  
> wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone, 
>>
>> I recently acquired a 64 clem L frameset that i'm in early stages of 
>> planning a build. I noticed it seems most people go for V-brakes. Which are 
>> quite simple and work fantastic. I currently do not have a set, and if 
>> possible would like to use as much from my parts bin as possible. 
>>
>> My EVENTUAL goal is to run an antelope hill 700c with honjo flat 65 
>> fenders. Cantilever's offer nicer flexibility around fender clearance. I've 
>> been debating trying to fit my MAFAC tandem cantilevers. However I realize 
>> the enormous frame would create an exceedingly long cable run from the 
>> stops, which I have heard can cause stuttering/wobble under braking. Or if 
>> there was any complicated installation issues. Mafacs are not the most 
>> adjustable, but they sure look great and work pretty well once set up.  
>>
>> I was curious if any of you have set up cantilevers on your clem (or 
>> similar really really tall rivs) and how your experience has been. 
>> Alternatively if you've been able to fit a V-brake with a large tire and 
>> fender, also please share. 
>>
>> Photos encouraged, please and thankyou. 
>>
>> -- 
>>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/65273f90-b077-4a78-a8d3-376d0f1a0452n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Cantilever brakes on a CLEM smith L?

[Patrick Moore]

I've set up cantis on a frame with very long head and steerer tubes; the
frame is only a 58 c-c but it is designed for 26" wheels, so the head and
steerer are quite long. I found that cheaper, Tektro CR720s did make the
fork shudder, though I fixed the problem by an almost ridiculous amount of
pad toe-in; this of course made braking a bit weaker. I replaced the
Tektros with Paul Neo Retros, same straddle cable in fact, and the shudder
is so minimal and occasional that it doesn't bother me, who tend to fret
about such things. The pads (same salmons) are now toed in normally.

My experience with Mafac cantis, both that designed for single bikes and
the tandem version with longer arms is that they aren't particularly
powerful -- at least, I couldn't get them so -- and that there's no toe-in
provision. Adding it all up, if I were you, I'd certainly give it a try,
but I'd be prepared to look for replacements too.

For record, the fork in question was not drilled for a crown-mounted
housing stop.

On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 11:50 AM Mackenzy Albright <
mackenzy.albri...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I recently acquired a 64 clem L frameset that i'm in early stages of
> planning a build. I noticed it seems most people go for V-brakes. Which are
> quite simple and work fantastic. I currently do not have a set, and if
> possible would like to use as much from my parts bin as possible.
>
> My EVENTUAL goal is to run an antelope hill 700c with honjo flat 65
> fenders. Cantilever's offer nicer flexibility around fender clearance. I've
> been debating trying to fit my MAFAC tandem cantilevers. However I realize
> the enormous frame would create an exceedingly long cable run from the
> stops, which I have heard can cause stuttering/wobble under braking. Or if
> there was any complicated installation issues. Mafacs are not the most
> adjustable, but they sure look great and work pretty well once set up.
>
> I was curious if any of you have set up cantilevers on your clem (or
> similar really really tall rivs) and how your experience has been.
> Alternatively if you've been able to fit a V-brake with a large tire and
> fender, also please share.
>
> Photos encouraged, please and thankyou.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] FS: Hilibike parts, Deore & XTR

[Collin A]

Folks,

I have some parts in my parts bin that hit my criteria of "I haven't used 
them in 2 years, so time to get rid of them." If i didn't live in an 
apartment without a garage, I'm sure that criteria would change, but as it 
is, space is limited.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xa3dF6DW7xUBm9Rj9

Anywho, I have the following:
Deore V brakes, "silver" one bike's worth: OEM from my 2017 Clem H, a bit 
dusty but overall great working condition. Comes with the mounting bolts, 
noodles, and little cable protectors. They work great, but I have since 
switched to cantis on my Rivendell -* Asking $30 + shipping*

XTR M960 Hubs, NOS, 32h: Unused and unlaced, and would make an excellent 
heart to a pair of hillibike wheels. They are a dark silver, almost 
gunmetal-type color that would provide a good balance to the vibrant colors 
Riv uses. 8/9/10 speed freehub, but you can use 11 spd mtn cassettes and 
the higher range 11 speed road cassettes on here as well. 100QR front and 
135 QR rear, 450g for the set - *Asking $160+ shipping.*

Enjoy the weekend,
Collin "what is rain" in Sacramento, CA

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[RBW] Re: FS: SimpleOne 58cm

[J Schwartz]

I've had some interest and questions but this SimpleOne is still for sale.
After some consideration, I'm dropping the price $300 to $2500.
[image: IMG_3227-2.jpg]

On Monday, February 28, 2022 at 7:30:09 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

> Not my size and too many bikes including a 70's SS PX-10 with moustache 
> bars...and the non-trials WI freewheel on 36-hole late 70's Campy Record 
> hubs, which I love, ratty as it is.
>
> But...what a sweet bike! Love the build; you sure put a lot of thought 
> into it. I sense a bit of seller's remorse. Hope it finds a good home...it 
> is a beauty!
>
>
> On Monday, February 28, 2022 at 2:32:59 PM UTC-6 J Schwartz wrote:
>
>> This one hurts.  I know I'm gonna regret selling this bike...but I'm not 
>> riding it too much lately and just converted my Hillborne to a 2 speed with 
>> a Paul Melvin...and need to continue to shed a few bikes.
>> I bought this as a frameset from Rivendell when they were released, back 
>> in 2012 or so.
>> I recently had the bike repainted by Bilenky .  They also did a small 
>> dent repair in the downtube.
>> They repainted the bike the same slimy green but with a cream head tube. 
>>  They also did all the little windows and fork wings in cream.
>> It's a 58cm and a special bike.  It's been set up as a kind of trail 
>> scorcher.  I've ridden it a lot on the rail trails here in the Hudson 
>> Valley.  It's got a 6 tooth spread on the crank chainrings and 700x43cm 
>> Bruce Gordon tires,   Also a White Industries 20T green freewheel.
>> I've mostly ridden it in the big (middle) chainring and really have only 
>> manually shifted it for some long monster climbs, on pavement.  Wheels are 
>> Synergy 32h laced to high polish hi-flange Paul hubs.  I recently changed 
>> the hubs from quick release to the fancy hex nuts and washers and keep 2 
>> hex wrenches attached to the seat stays with super magnets for fast rear 
>> axle adjustments on the road.
>> While the paint is relatively new and it's not had a lot of use since 
>> being repainted, there are a few chips here and there.  The only one that 
>> is of note is a scrape on the bottom of the downtube (facing the road, so 
>> you can't see it) that happened when I dropped a pedal wrench when 
>> attaching pedals.
>> Other than that, on the rack braze-ons, there's a little paint 
>> scuffingand the rear dropouts of course. **Note, in the photo below 
>> , the rear dropouts looked more scuffed than they arethat's actually 
>> white grease that's showing up in the photo *
>>
>> This bike is so good.  I had an orange Quickbeam in the same size (58) 
>> ..they are essentially identical frames...but the SimpleOne is better.
>> The drivetrain on this bike is great.  It engages instantly ...not sure 
>> if that's due to the heavier duty White Industries green "trials 
>> " freewheel (more 
>> engagement points than the standard W.I. freewheels)...but it just clicks 
>> right it and feels like a single speed should.  Pedaling in reverse leads 
>> to no chain suck or chain slap or whatever that's called.  
>> The freewheel is 20t.  That may sound high, but it worked very well for 
>> my needs which included climbing on paths.  The front chainrings are 38 and 
>> 32 (I believe).
>> Bars are Chocos upside down on a 10cm Tallux...with ESI grips and 
>> shellacked Newbaums on the curves.
>>
>> Parts list below:
>>
>> Rivendell SimpleOne 
>>
>> Size 58cm 
>>
>> *NO SADDLE OR PEDALS*
>>
>> Recently repainted by Bilenky (original slimy green but with cream 
>> headtube)
>>
>> ·  Stock Tange headset
>>
>> ·  Stock Tange 107mm bottom bracket 
>>
>> ·  Stock Taiwanese seatpost (27.2mm)
>>
>> ·  Nitto Tallux - 10cm , 26.0
>>
>> ·  Nitto Riv Choco bars (with Nitto 26.0 to 25.4 shim)
>>
>> ·  Newbaums green/blue with amber shellac & twined
>>
>> ·  ESG chunky silicon grips in Grey
>>
>> ·  Origin8 duo-trigger , 2-finger brake levers in Silver (for both 
>> short & long pull) (from Riv)
>>
>> ·  Dia-compe 980 cantilever brakes with upgraded pads in Silver (from 
>> Riv)
>>
>> ·  Sugino XD2 crankset in 170mm (from Riv, has some wear on the 
>> anodizing on the arms)
>>
>> ·  6-tooth spread – Inner ring - Sugino 32T, Middle ring - Sugino 38T 
>> & Outside ring - Sugino bashguard (which I had powdercoated black)
>>
>> ·  8-speed SRAM chain 
>>
>> ·  White Industries 20T green (beefier trials version) freewheel
>>
>> ·  Wheels:
>>
>> ·  Built by Anthony King @ Longleaf 
>>
>> ·  Velocity Synergy – 32 hole, front & rear, newest version, no 
>> offset on the rear
>>
>> ·  Paul Hi-flange front & rear hubs (32hole)- polished silver with 
>> the added strong Paul hex nuts and washers (rear 120mm)
>>
>> ·  Wheelsmith DB14 2.0/1.7/2.0 Silver Spoke w/ Silver Brass Nipple
>>
>> ·  Velox rim tape
>>
>> ·  Bruce Gordon Rock n Road tires in black sidewall, tubes
>>
>> ·  Jagwire brake cable and 

Re: [RBW] Cantilever brakes on a CLEM smith L?

[Eric Daume]

The front brake can easily be solved with a fork mounted brake hanger. That
will negate the height of the head tube.

I’m not sure how you would route a canti to the rear of an L model.

Eric

On Friday, March 4, 2022, Mackenzy Albright 
wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I recently acquired a 64 clem L frameset that i'm in early stages of
> planning a build. I noticed it seems most people go for V-brakes. Which are
> quite simple and work fantastic. I currently do not have a set, and if
> possible would like to use as much from my parts bin as possible.
>
> My EVENTUAL goal is to run an antelope hill 700c with honjo flat 65
> fenders. Cantilever's offer nicer flexibility around fender clearance. I've
> been debating trying to fit my MAFAC tandem cantilevers. However I realize
> the enormous frame would create an exceedingly long cable run from the
> stops, which I have heard can cause stuttering/wobble under braking. Or if
> there was any complicated installation issues. Mafacs are not the most
> adjustable, but they sure look great and work pretty well once set up.
>
> I was curious if any of you have set up cantilevers on your clem (or
> similar really really tall rivs) and how your experience has been.
> Alternatively if you've been able to fit a V-brake with a large tire and
> fender, also please share.
>
> Photos encouraged, please and thankyou.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/65273f90-b077-4a78-a8d3-
> 376d0f1a0452n%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Soma Sparrow 52cm silver handlebars

[eddietheflay]

still available. contact eddie dot flayer at att dot net

On Monday, February 21, 2022 at 12:54:58 AM UTC-8 Mike Godwin wrote:

> Hey Eddie
>
> Any takers yet? 
>
> Mike SLO CA
>
> On Saturday, February 5, 2022 at 10:34:21 AM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>
>> look better right side up:
>>
>> https://www.vcjshop.top/ProductDetail.aspx?iid=297217287=57.88
>>
>> Now $50 shipped.
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 3:06:41 PM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>>
>>> Please respond to eddie dot flayer at att dot net
>>>
>>> Next to new with a couple of minor scratches where levers were installed.
>>>
>>> Like this:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/soma-handlebar-sparrow-3317?page=2=977
>>>
>>> $55 net to me will get them shipped to you.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Cantilever brakes on a CLEM smith L?

[Mackenzy Albright]

Hi everyone, 

I recently acquired a 64 clem L frameset that i'm in early stages of 
planning a build. I noticed it seems most people go for V-brakes. Which are 
quite simple and work fantastic. I currently do not have a set, and if 
possible would like to use as much from my parts bin as possible. 

My EVENTUAL goal is to run an antelope hill 700c with honjo flat 65 
fenders. Cantilever's offer nicer flexibility around fender clearance. I've 
been debating trying to fit my MAFAC tandem cantilevers. However I realize 
the enormous frame would create an exceedingly long cable run from the 
stops, which I have heard can cause stuttering/wobble under braking. Or if 
there was any complicated installation issues. Mafacs are not the most 
adjustable, but they sure look great and work pretty well once set up.  

I was curious if any of you have set up cantilevers on your clem (or 
similar really really tall rivs) and how your experience has been. 
Alternatively if you've been able to fit a V-brake with a large tire and 
fender, also please share. 

Photos encouraged, please and thankyou. 

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[RBW] Re: Drop bar - Fit question

[atreya...@gmail.com]

Thanks Jeremyfordetailed response.I am usingb17. Though I also have GB 
Aspin. 
On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 9:24:57 AM UTC-8 Jeremy Till wrote:

> You also don't mention which saddle are you are using, which in my 
> experience is a key determinant in how much setback you need to achieve 
> through frame and seatpost setback. The Nitto Lugged post was developed by 
> Riv when most of their designs used a 72 degree seat angle, and some people 
> had trouble getting a Brooks B.17 far back enough to be well balanced and 
> comfortable. I've also seen it used to get Brooks saddles in a better 
> position on older steel road bikes with 73 degree or steeper seat angles. 
> Brooks leather saddles have very short usable rail adjustments which is 
> biased towards the rear of the saddle, meaning it can be hard to get it far 
> enough back on bikes with steeper seat angles. However, on the newer 
> Rivendells with slacker seat angles, like your Homer, the lugged post might 
> be overkill.
>
> Personally, I use a zero setback Thomson seatpost on my 59cm Clem H, 
> which, if I remember correctly, also has a 71.5 degree seattube. However, I 
> also use a WTB Pure saddle, which in my experience has a lot more 
> "built-in" setback--it's rails are longer, and more biased towards the 
> middle of the saddle, so I have no problem getting enough setback with that 
> post. If you're currently using a Brooks and the Nitto lugged post, you 
> might try one of the Nitto posts with a more moderate amount of setback 
> (the S65 or S83) before going to a zero setback. 
>
> After many years of trial and error and recently getting more precise 
> about the way I measure and set up my saddles, I've come to the conclusion 
> that I need a similar amount of setback whether I am sitting upright or 
> using drop bars. As others have said, it's best to figure out what that 
> setback is for you before adjusting the reach to the handlebars to get 
> comfortable. If you have another bike that on which you are basically 
> comfortable, measuring its setback and replicating it on your Homer 
> (assuming the same or similar saddles) might be a good starting point.  
>
> Also, setback should be adjusted in conjunction with saddle height. The 
> farther back your saddle is, the lower it should be to keep your leg 
> extension relatively constant. If you're experiencing tight hamstrings, 
> that might be part of it. I've heard fitters say the ratio is roughly 3:1, 
> that is, for every 3mm of increased saddle setback, the seat needs to come 
> down 1mm, and vice versa.  
>
> -Jeremy Till
> Sacramento, CA
>
> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 8:24:22 PM UTC-8 atreya...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Group , need your thoughts on drop bar fit . I recently bought homer 
>> Hilsen ( most recent batch ) . I have short torso but long legs and arms . 
>> My height is 5’8.5 ish and pbh is 86.5. I have homer in 54.5 , which has tt 
>> of 57.5. I am running a short stem 50mm and nitto m151(75 mm reach) . I am 
>> also using nitto lugged seat post , which I understand has a lot of set 
>> back.The reach seems to be working fine , however I do find my hamstrings 
>> are getting taxed way more than I like compared to my quads especially on 
>> climbs in the saddle . My understanding is that homer has a slack seat tube 
>> angle of 71.5. Will running a zero set back seatpost help ? Has anybody run 
>> zero setback posts on rivs. I understand that general recommendation is to 
>> have more set back .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Drop bar - Fit question

[Jeremy Till]

You also don't mention which saddle are you are using, which in my 
experience is a key determinant in how much setback you need to achieve 
through frame and seatpost setback. The Nitto Lugged post was developed by 
Riv when most of their designs used a 72 degree seat angle, and some people 
had trouble getting a Brooks B.17 far back enough to be well balanced and 
comfortable. I've also seen it used to get Brooks saddles in a better 
position on older steel road bikes with 73 degree or steeper seat angles. 
Brooks leather saddles have very short usable rail adjustments which is 
biased towards the rear of the saddle, meaning it can be hard to get it far 
enough back on bikes with steeper seat angles. However, on the newer 
Rivendells with slacker seat angles, like your Homer, the lugged post might 
be overkill.

Personally, I use a zero setback Thomson seatpost on my 59cm Clem H, which, 
if I remember correctly, also has a 71.5 degree seattube. However, I also 
use a WTB Pure saddle, which in my experience has a lot more "built-in" 
setback--it's rails are longer, and more biased towards the middle of the 
saddle, so I have no problem getting enough setback with that post. If 
you're currently using a Brooks and the Nitto lugged post, you might try 
one of the Nitto posts with a more moderate amount of setback (the S65 or 
S83) before going to a zero setback. 

After many years of trial and error and recently getting more precise about 
the way I measure and set up my saddles, I've come to the conclusion that I 
need a similar amount of setback whether I am sitting upright or using drop 
bars. As others have said, it's best to figure out what that setback is for 
you before adjusting the reach to the handlebars to get comfortable. If you 
have another bike that on which you are basically comfortable, measuring 
its setback and replicating it on your Homer (assuming the same or similar 
saddles) might be a good starting point.  

Also, setback should be adjusted in conjunction with saddle height. The 
farther back your saddle is, the lower it should be to keep your leg 
extension relatively constant. If you're experiencing tight hamstrings, 
that might be part of it. I've heard fitters say the ratio is roughly 3:1, 
that is, for every 3mm of increased saddle setback, the seat needs to come 
down 1mm, and vice versa.  

-Jeremy Till
Sacramento, CA

On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 8:24:22 PM UTC-8 atreya...@gmail.com wrote:

> Group , need your thoughts on drop bar fit . I recently bought homer 
> Hilsen ( most recent batch ) . I have short torso but long legs and arms . 
> My height is 5’8.5 ish and pbh is 86.5. I have homer in 54.5 , which has tt 
> of 57.5. I am running a short stem 50mm and nitto m151(75 mm reach) . I am 
> also using nitto lugged seat post , which I understand has a lot of set 
> back.The reach seems to be working fine , however I do find my hamstrings 
> are getting taxed way more than I like compared to my quads especially on 
> climbs in the saddle . My understanding is that homer has a slack seat tube 
> angle of 71.5. Will running a zero set back seatpost help ? Has anybody run 
> zero setback posts on rivs. I understand that general recommendation is to 
> have more set back .
>

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[RBW] Re: FS(Bay Area): 58? Quickbeam

[diekaiser]

Alright,

Last call everyone. Just deciding if I should bring the Quickbeam with me 
on the roadtrip. Happy to drop off anywhere along the way. Again, I'll be 
heading up to the Eugene, OR area from San Luis Obispo, CA. Once I get back 
I'll post again when I have enough time to box it up for shipping (if 
anyone were interested).

Thanks all,

Jason (in SLO)

On Monday, February 28, 2022 at 4:20:48 PM UTC-8 diekaiser wrote:

> Hey all. With regret, I'm selling my Quickbeam. Unfortunately living in a 
> studio doesn't accommodate owning 4+ bikes and the Quickbeam didn't make 
> the cut. I'm heading up to SF on March 5th for a birthday roadtrip to 
> Oregon and will be there for the weekend if you would like to check it out.
>
>  I was having a hard time figuring out which size model it is from the Riv 
> catalogs but it has a 57cm top tube and a 56cm seat tube (I measured center 
> to center) which I believe puts it at the 58cm model. 
>
> Sale includes Frame, fork, headset, bottom bracket, seat post, and wheel 
> set. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare set of brakes as they are moving 
> to a different bike along with the crankset. I figured the cockpit would be 
> purely preferential. With that said, I have a selection of nitto bars if 
> someone would like to inquire. 
>
> I'd say the condition is great as in there are no dents, large scratches, 
> etc but the decals are a bit scratched up from locking etc. The only other 
> thing that I didn't know about when I bought it was that the front-left 
> fender eyelet may be stripped. I'll investigate more closely soon but just 
> wanted to mention it.
>
> *Details*
> Tange Levin headset
> Shimano BB (I don't remember the exact width but I believe it is the one 
> that came stock)
> Nitto 83 seat post
> 36h Dura-Ace 7600 track hubs (fixed/fixed)
> White Industries 19t freewheel
> 36h Velocity Atlas rims (non-machined)
> 700x38 Panaracer Gravelking EXTs (if you would like them).
>
> $1300, but if that doesn't sound reasonable I'm more than happy to chat 
> about it.
>
> Here are some photos of the different iterations in which it has been set 
> up 
> .
>
> I'll add some more detail photos to the same link shortly.
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: F Pitlock Wheel Skewers

[Joe Mullins]

Hey Joe, sending you a PM now.

On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 8:01:09 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I have these things called Pinwheel. 135/100 skewers, seat binder bolt and 
> threadless top cap. The tool for them even has a bottle opener! $20 
> shipped. 
>
> Joe Bernard
>
> On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 6:52:11 AM UTC-8 jmlmu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> If anyone else has a spare pair I’m interested!
>>
>> Glad to hear you found some Glen.  
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> On Mar 4, 2022, at 5:50 AM, Glen  wrote:
>>
>> Thanks ROBs, I have found a pair.
>>
>>
>> Atlantis 2 version 3.0 is almost complete.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 11:03:02 AM UTC-7 Glen wrote:
>>
>>> Before a place an order for a pair, I was wondering if anyone on here 
>>> has a pair of Pitlock wheel skewers that they are looking to part with.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Glen
>>>
>> -- 
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9e909fa2-135b-4dbb-9df0-c1a59962934an%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] WTB: F Pitlock Wheel Skewers

[Joe Mullins]

Hey Joe! Great name, you must be a great guy!

Thanks for reaching out. My buddy swears by those and he recommended them to 
me. I’ll take them! Let me know your Venmo or Paypal addressed I’ll send 20 
right over.

My address is:

625 Isabel St.
Los Angeles, CA 90065


Thanks,

Joe Mullins


> On Mar 4, 2022, at 8:01 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
> 
> I have these things called Pinwheel. 135/100 skewers, seat binder bolt and 
> threadless top cap. The tool for them even has a bottle opener! $20 shipped. 
> 
> Joe Bernard
> 
> On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 6:52:11 AM UTC-8 jmlmu...@gmail.com wrote:
> If anyone else has a spare pair I’m interested!
> 
> Glad to hear you found some Glen.  
> 
> Joe
> 
>> On Mar 4, 2022, at 5:50 AM, Glen > > wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks ROBs, I have found a pair.
> 
>> 
>> Atlantis 2 version 3.0 is almost complete.
>> 
>> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 11:03:02 AM UTC-7 Glen wrote:
>> Before a place an order for a pair, I was wondering if anyone on here has a 
>> pair of Pitlock wheel skewers that they are looking to part with.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Glen
>> 
> 
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com 
>> .
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9e909fa2-135b-4dbb-9df0-c1a59962934an%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> .
> 
> 
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>  
> .
> 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Shellacing the Neubaums

[JohnS]

They do! I can't wait to get the gavel bike built so that I can go for a 
long ride on them.

On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 8:10:04 PM UTC-5 jmlmu...@gmail.com wrote:

> I bet those tires will feel great!
>
> On Mar 3, 2022, at 3:14 PM, JohnS  wrote:
>
> Joe,
>
>
> I have a pair of the Rat Trap Pass, file tread tires that I'll going to 
> first try. The gravel roads around here aren't that long, so I ride from 
> one section of gravel to another on paved roads for more that 1/2 the ride. 
> But if I'm not happy with the RTP, then I would like to try the Humptulips.
>
> John
> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 9:59:43 AM UTC-5 jmlmu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> If they are the knobby RH tires, then they will probably grip better on 
>> the dirt than these tires. I have the 26” RH Humptulips on my Bstone MB2 
>> and they are so nice that it doesn’t make me feel bad for what I paid for 
>> them, especially in comparison to what I paid for the bike! And they roll 
>> nearly like slicks on pavement. And are pretty nice sounding too!
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> On Mar 3, 2022, at 5:34 AM, JohnS  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> Thanks Joe, I may consider them for a gravel bike that I'll be building 
>> from a M2 StumpJumper. I have a pair of Rene Herse tires for it (from a 
>> list member) that I'll start with and see how they do. I've had good luck 
>> the RH tires and have them on most of my bikes. The '82 Stumpy will have 
>> Fat Franks, bullet proof, reasonable price, fun, but not a performance tire.
>>
>> Almost done with the rasket, will post a pic soon.
>>
>> JohnS
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 2, 2022 at 10:05:59 AM UTC-5 jmlmu...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The Ultradynamico tires are nice. They are very comfortable and the bike 
>>> feels great (and fast) with them. I’m running the Rose up front which holds 
>>> fine on the loose dirt around here. On pavement it rolls fine with a bit of 
>>> a whirring sound that’s not as distracting as full on knobbies but also not 
>>> silent. I have a Cava in the back which is way too loose on the trails we 
>>> have around here. Makes me ride much safer yet also makes me want to 
>>> practice my drifting skills. With Mini-Motos it’s WAY to easy to skid. 
>>>
>>> I have them setup tubeless since they have zero puncture protection and 
>>> I live in Los Angeles where the streets (and trails) are sadly always 
>>> covered in broken glass. My next set of tires will definitely be something 
>>> cheaper and more durable mainly for peace of mind. With Pasela’s I don’t 
>>> even bother swerving around glass! These were fun to try though!
>>>
>>> Joe in Los Angeles
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mar 2, 2022, at 5:44 AM, JohnS  wrote:
>>>
>>> Nice looking mounting of the basket to the Nitto rack. How do you like 
>>> the UltraDynamico tires?
>>>
>>>
>>> My plan is to cut down the Wald struts and use a couple angle brackets 
>>> along with aluminum bar stock to make a "rasket". Finding a long strut to 
>>> go from the fork to the rasket isn't going well. Riv has a rear one which I 
>>> may use or I may fabricate one out of the bar stock for the time being.
>>>
>>> John 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2022 at 6:59:42 PM UTC-5 jmlmu...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Here’s how mines mounted! I’m sure you’ve got plenty of left over twine!

 I think I wrapped a little between the rack and basket to minimize the 
 clankiness. 



 On Mar 1, 2022, at 9:51 AM, JohnS  wrote:

 Thank you for the advice of using lighter coats, that should help 
 prevent runs and drips. I put two coats on this time, so should be good 
 for 
 a while. Now onto mounting the Wald basket, always something.


 JohnS

 On Monday, February 28, 2022 at 11:59:16 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> JohnS: It sounds like you have too much shellac in your brush. 
> Submerge the bristles of your brush only about a half inch and then lay 
> off 
> the brush by wiping the end of the bristles on the underside of the rim 
> of 
> the can. You only need enough to get a single even coat. Shellac dries 
> quickly, it won't be long until you're ready for the next application. 
>
> As Jstern mentions denatured alcohol is great for cleaning up any 
> shellac that ended up where you don't want it. Just dab a bit onto a rag 
> and then wipe the rag over your trouble area. 
>
> I don't cover the bike, sometimes I'll mask my bar end shifter pods 
> with blue painter's tape but I usually don't bother. 
>
> I haven't had any trouble handling the shellac, no issues with runs or 
> drips. I use a 1" wide chip brush and always lay off my brush on the 
> inside 
> edge of the can. I clean my brush with denatured alcohol and have used 
> the 
> same cheap brush for many shellac applications over the last several 
> years. 
>
> Be warned! Shellac can and does go bad. I pulled an old can of amber 
> shellac out of 

Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: F Pitlock Wheel Skewers

[Joe Mullins]

If anyone else has a spare pair I’m interested!

Glad to hear you found some Glen.  

Joe

> On Mar 4, 2022, at 5:50 AM, Glen  wrote:
> 
> Thanks ROBs, I have found a pair.
> 
> Atlantis 2 version 3.0 is almost complete.
> 
>> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 11:03:02 AM UTC-7 Glen wrote:
>> Before a place an order for a pair, I was wondering if anyone on here has a 
>> pair of Pitlock wheel skewers that they are looking to part with.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Glen
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop bar - Fit question

[Patrick Moore]

Get your saddle position comfortable for pedaling, independently of reach to 
bar, then choose stem and bar for correct reach. 

Peter White has a good article on proper setup.



> On Mar 4, 2022, at 7:14 AM, atreya...@gmail.com  
> wrote:
> 
> Forgot to mention , the current set up described in my original post I do 
> have the saddle all the way forward.
> 
>> On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 5:52:41 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Before swapping the post, have you tried sliding the saddle all the way 
>> forward on the lugged seatpost and trying that? 
>> 
>>> On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 2:44:06 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>> Dang it, I wish there was a way to edit these things. I'd swap the post 
>>> first and see what you think. You may end up happy with the reach without 
>>> changing anything else. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 11:39:03 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
 Since no one with more knowledge than dumb-old me has answered yet: I 
 don't know anything about hamstrings and quads but I do know that is 
 indeed a very setback post you're using on a rather slack seattube. 
 Considering that you're also using a short stem I think you could keep 
 your current reach by shifting your whole body forward. Maybe not a 
 zero-setback post, I'm thinking a Nitto S65 post and 7cm stem.
 
 Joe Bernard
 
> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 8:24:22 PM UTC-8 atreya...@gmail.com wrote:
> Group , need your thoughts on drop bar fit . I recently bought homer 
> Hilsen ( most recent batch ) . I have short torso but long legs and arms 
> . My height is 5’8.5 ish and pbh is 86.5. I have homer in 54.5 , which 
> has tt of 57.5. I am running a short stem 50mm and nitto m151(75 mm 
> reach) . I am also using nitto lugged seat post , which I understand has 
> a lot of set back.The reach seems to be working fine , however I do find 
> my hamstrings are getting taxed way more than I like compared to my quads 
> especially on climbs in the saddle . My understanding is that homer has a 
> slack seat tube angle of 71.5. Will running a zero set back seatpost help 
> ? Has anybody run zero setback posts on rivs. I understand that general 
> recommendation is to have more set back .
> 
> 
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[RBW] Re: Drop bar - Fit question

[atreya...@gmail.com]

Forgot to mention , the current set up described in my original post I do 
have the saddle all the way forward.

On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 5:52:41 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Before swapping the post, have you tried sliding the saddle all the way 
> forward on the lugged seatpost and trying that? 
>
> On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 2:44:06 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Dang it, I wish there was a way to edit these things. I'd swap the post 
>> first and see what you think. You may end up happy with the reach without 
>> changing anything else. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 11:39:03 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Since no one with more knowledge than dumb-old me has answered yet: I 
>>> don't know anything about hamstrings and quads but I do know that is indeed 
>>> a very setback post you're using on a rather slack seattube. Considering 
>>> that you're also using a short stem I think you could keep your current 
>>> reach by shifting your whole body forward. Maybe not a zero-setback post, 
>>> I'm thinking a Nitto S65 post and 7cm stem.
>>>
>>> Joe Bernard
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 8:24:22 PM UTC-8 atreya...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Group , need your thoughts on drop bar fit . I recently bought homer 
 Hilsen ( most recent batch ) . I have short torso but long legs and arms . 
 My height is 5’8.5 ish and pbh is 86.5. I have homer in 54.5 , which has 
 tt 
 of 57.5. I am running a short stem 50mm and nitto m151(75 mm reach) . I am 
 also using nitto lugged seat post , which I understand has a lot of set 
 back.The reach seems to be working fine , however I do find my hamstrings 
 are getting taxed way more than I like compared to my quads especially on 
 climbs in the saddle . My understanding is that homer has a slack seat 
 tube 
 angle of 71.5. Will running a zero set back seatpost help ? Has anybody 
 run 
 zero setback posts on rivs. I understand that general recommendation is to 
 have more set back .

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Drop bar - Fit question

[Eric Marth]

Before swapping the post, have you tried sliding the saddle all the way 
forward on the lugged seatpost and trying that? 

On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 2:44:06 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Dang it, I wish there was a way to edit these things. I'd swap the post 
> first and see what you think. You may end up happy with the reach without 
> changing anything else. 
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 11:39:03 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Since no one with more knowledge than dumb-old me has answered yet: I 
>> don't know anything about hamstrings and quads but I do know that is indeed 
>> a very setback post you're using on a rather slack seattube. Considering 
>> that you're also using a short stem I think you could keep your current 
>> reach by shifting your whole body forward. Maybe not a zero-setback post, 
>> I'm thinking a Nitto S65 post and 7cm stem.
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 8:24:22 PM UTC-8 atreya...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Group , need your thoughts on drop bar fit . I recently bought homer 
>>> Hilsen ( most recent batch ) . I have short torso but long legs and arms . 
>>> My height is 5’8.5 ish and pbh is 86.5. I have homer in 54.5 , which has tt 
>>> of 57.5. I am running a short stem 50mm and nitto m151(75 mm reach) . I am 
>>> also using nitto lugged seat post , which I understand has a lot of set 
>>> back.The reach seems to be working fine , however I do find my hamstrings 
>>> are getting taxed way more than I like compared to my quads especially on 
>>> climbs in the saddle . My understanding is that homer has a slack seat tube 
>>> angle of 71.5. Will running a zero set back seatpost help ? Has anybody run 
>>> zero setback posts on rivs. I understand that general recommendation is to 
>>> have more set back .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: F Pitlock Wheel Skewers

[Glen]

Thanks ROBs, I have found a pair.

Atlantis 2 version 3.0 is almost complete.

On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 11:03:02 AM UTC-7 Glen wrote:

> Before a place an order for a pair, I was wondering if anyone on here has 
> a pair of Pitlock wheel skewers that they are looking to part with.
>
> Thanks
>
> Glen
>

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Re: [RBW] How do you track mileage?

[Bruce Baker]

I have been using mapmyride for 12 years and love it...

On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 8:42 AM 'mark etze' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I have one version or another of the Cateye's on all my bikes. The only
> thing I am concerned about is total mileage and average speed, sometimes I
> need reminded to pick up the pace so it's nice to have it on the handle
> bar. Transfer that data to the iPhone health app, total it up monthly and
> hand write it in a journal. I usually set a goal each year of how many
> miles I want to ride, so that keeps me motivated to get out more.
>
> On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 12:46:59 AM UTC-5 Robert Tilley wrote:
>
>> My Garmin watch gives me data for the last year via the Garmin Connect
>> app on my phone and they have totals for the last 7 days, 4 weeks and year.
>> All older data I need to access from the cloud if I want to see it.
>>
>> Robert Tilley
>> San Diego, CA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Mar 3, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Joe Mullins  wrote:
>> >
>> > It’s been great hearing about how people are keeping track of miles.
>> From what I’ve gathered, some sort of journal or spreadsheet seems to be
>> the way to keep track of long term data. As far as collecting data, there
>> are many options and pros and cons to all.
>> >
>> > My current method of tracking via GPS watch allows me to see the
>> metrics of individual rides but since I’m not synced to Strava or another
>> service, I’m not easily seeing the grand totals and at this point in my
>> life, that’s all I’m curious about. I used to use a Garmin watch which
>> sends the data to their own service as well as syncing to my Apple iPhone
>> health app. I can look back and see data from individual rides but can’t
>> see the grand totals. Maybe it’s hidden somewhere but I haven’t found it. I
>> now use an Apple Watch which shows all the same data as the Garmin but has
>> the added benefit of asking me if I’m on a bike ride and if I want to track
>> if I forgot to start the watch. This is annoying when I don’t care about
>> tracking. And its annoying when I want to track but forgot to hit start as
>> I’m usually a mile or two in when it senses that I’m on a bike ride. I’d
>> say I track 75% of rides because it’s so easy, why not. I look back at
>> maybe 3% of those rides!
>> >
>> > If I want to see an odometer reading which sounds like fun to me, I
>> need to be diligent about starting and stopping the GPS. The same would go
>> if I were to use a Garmin bike GPS with navigation, etc. These devices are
>> all great but they require diligent starting in stopping which in my
>> experience has always been some sort of failure. (I’ve tracked many a hike
>> only to get in my car and drive halfway home with the watch still
>> tracking.) And if I want to swap one between bikes and know the total
>> mileage for a particular bike, I have to manually log that info which is
>> way more work than what I currently want to put into it.
>> >
>> > Using my iPhone to track with apps like Strava, Ride With GPS, or
>> Cyclemeter (BTW there appears to be two versions of Cyclemeter in the Apple
>> App Store and one is Russian and looks like a rip off of the original)
>> might be the way to go to get tallies. As several folks mentioned they have
>> used these apps to their success. I used to track with my phone and a DIY
>> mount and it was great and not great. Super easy to navigate with maps and
>> receive calls or texts. Not great because I was forced to receive all calls
>> and texts! Most of the time I don’t want to be connected to the outside
>> world when riding. But there are times when it’s inevitable and I guess
>> that’s just the world we live in these days.
>> >
>> > The biggest problem I faced with the phone was that it would overheat
>> in the sun rendering it completely useless until it cooled down. Yes I can
>> start it and toss it in a bag but then it’s chewing through battery. Yes I
>> could use a battery brick but I don’t want to go to all that trouble! I
>> have a beacon light on my Hillborne and I guess I could keep it plugged in
>> to the built in USB charger but again…more effort than I wish to put into
>> all this.
>> >
>> > The simple bike computer is something I haven’t considered in 20 years.
>> I remember how excited I was as a kid in the early 90’s to get one on my
>> bike. I think I only used it to bomb the biggest hill in my neighborhood
>> and see how fast I could go. It was really simple and sparkly
>> blueish-purple to match my Mongoose.
>> >
>> > With all the fancy metrics GPS apps and devices offer, the simple bike
>> computer seems to offer nothing of useful value Tim this day and age. But
>> alas, hearing everyone’s methods has helped me to realize some really
>> strong points. The simple bike computer (which I’ll now call the SBC since
>> I’m typing this on my phone) does something I love—it starts tracking the
>> moment my wheel starts spinning regardless of whether I want it