[RBW] Re: FS: Crust Ron's Ortho Bar & 12cm Nitto Tallux

[exliontamer]

Bars & stem are sold

On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 3:34:36 AM UTC-4 exliontamer wrote:

> [image: IMG_4858.jpg]
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 2:34:13 AM UTC-5 exliontamer wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_4857.jpg]Put these on my Cheviot and went back to my tried 
>> and true Albatross bars. I bought these off of here for face value and 
>> bought the stem new as well. Has shellacked NOS Viva tape which I'm happy 
>> to remove if the buyer wishes. I may have to remove one side to fit the 
>> stem in the box anyway. Happy to answer any questions. 
>>
>> $230 shipped for both. Literally just trying to make my $$$ back. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_4856.jpg]
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] FS: (new price) 1972 CILO SPRINTX SPORTS TOURING BICYCLE

[Brian Turner]

Ah, from the era of “touring bikes” with absolutely no other mounts for racks to actually carry stuff!On Sep 8, 2023, at 10:13 PM, Kim H.  wrote:
I have for sale a 1972 Cilo Sprintx (Swiss made) sports
touring bicycle. I have had this bike, since I bought it new in late 1973. It
has been my main road bike for nearly 40 years. I have taken very good care it
as a very detailed-oriented person. I do not ride it any more. It is time to sell
it.

The frame size is 57.785cm or 22.75”. The Stand over height
is 81.59cm or 32 1/8”. My PBH is 80.1 cm = 31.1”. With a long torso and short
limbs, this bike fits me very comfortably. The bike rides and handles like that
of an European sports car; very nimble and fast.Mind you, the black paint job is not of the original color.
It is a repaint. It was originally silver. Here is an original 1973 Cilo
Sprintx, of which is very similar to the 1972 model:

https://bikeindex.org/bikes/61636

Information and
history about Cilo:

https://diaryofacyclingnobody.com/cilo-cycles-the-factory-in-lausanne/

https://diaryofacyclingnobody.com/the-story-of-the-swiss-cilo-bicycle-company-and-bob-who-guards-the-bike-shed/Frame/Fork: SIZE: 57.785cm or 22.75” - Reynolds 531 tubing
and forks/stays. French BCM (Bocama) lugs and fork crown. Campagnolo drop outs
front and rear. Custom added three water bottles cage mounts on the frame and
down tube cable housing stops. 120mm OLD rear spacing and 100mm front spacing.
I have a steel washer on the drive side inside the rear stay to accept the
6-cogged freewheel. The rear stays have not been cold set.

Serial Number#: 72876 - ‘72’ representing 1972. It was also
made in August (8), and was the 76th (76) frame of that race type made in
August. The Sprintx was a variant of a criterium racer and won’t have had low
range mountain gears on it that some of the other race bikes had.

Rims: Super Champion
36-hole f/r.Hubs: Phil Wood 1st
generation 36-hole with Campagnolo Nouvo Record quick release skewers.Tires: 700x30C IRC
Tandem – 100 psi.

Crankset: T. A.
Specialites Cyclotourist 170mm triple with T. A. 52-45-26T rings.

Chain: New Shimano
HG71

Derailleurs: Front:
Suntour Cyclone (Model: FD-1300) with rare wide cage extension Rear: Suntour
Cyclone GT (5905 2nd style). Shifter: Suntour friction bar-end ratchet shifters

Freewheel: Suntour
13-34T Pro Compe (Ultra-6)

Bottom Bracket: Swiss
threaded with a Phil Wood 119mm square and tapered spindle with Phil Wood Swiss
threaded retainer rings.Handlebar: SR ?
Randonneur – distance between the lower drops is 17” C to C.

Stem: Nitto Technomic
90mm

Headset: French
threaded Campagnolo Nouvo Record Brakes: Campagnolo Nouvo Record complete with levers and
side-pull calipers. The brake hoods have been replaced with replicas without
the the Campagnolo words and world globes. Scott Mathauser brake pad inserts.

Saddle: Brooks B-17
black leather saddle - new.   

Seatpost: SR Custom
26.6mm post.

I’m asking $1000.00 net to me of any buyer fees. However, I
am very much open to best offers. I am located outside of Olympia, Washington
state. I'd love a local sale within the Puget Sound , but can also ship. I
accept payment with PayPal only or cash in person. Buyer is to arrange and pay
for shipping directly with BikeFlights. I’ll drop off the bike at my LBS to be
boxed up.

The extra componentry will be sold separately on a separate
post at a later time.

Additional detailed descriptions and photos on request.

Feel free to privately contact me for your interests and
questions off this group through my email address krhet...@hotmail.com for your
interests and questions, please. Again, I am open to best offers.

I am open to trading and part cash for either a 2023 or 2019
Rivendell 59cm RBW BLUE frameset in good to very good condition.

Thank-you,Kim HetzelYelm, WA.



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[RBW] ISO/WTT: 59cm Rivendell Clem Smith Jr. "L" frameset RBW Blue

[Kim H.]

 

I am looking to trade my 2019 Rivendell 59cm Clem Smith Jr. "L" frameset in 
LIME OLIVE for a Rivendell 59cm Clem Smith Jr. "L" frameset in RBW BLUE 
from the last production batch this past April 2023 or from 2019.

I am asking that your frameset is in very good condition with very minimal 
beausage, as is mine.  

My frameset is currently a built-up bicycle. I would need time to tear it 
down and facilitate this trade.  

I'm located outside of Olympia, in the south Puget Sound region of 
Washington State. We can meet locally to trade. Otherwise, I will take my 
frameset have it packed and shipped through my LBS via BikeFlights. I would 
be willing to split the cost.

Kim Hetzel 

Yelm, WA.

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Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[J G]

Agree with Patrick that whatever change you make, give it a 100 miles.

Only disagree with the idea to toe in more.  Centerpull brakes work best 
with no toe in, in my experience.  

I have 2 bikes with Paul Racers, with one center mount and one post mount. 
 No toe in for either and no squeal or shudder.  Just some of the best 
braking power and modulation of any bikes I have.

Here is a good link that discusses center pull brakes and toe in:

https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-better-way-to-adjust-toe-in/

Here is a key excerpt from page and the theory stands IMHO for both center 
and post mount, even though the statement specifically alludes to post 
mount:

"Centerpull brakes attach close to the fork crown, so the fork blades don’t 
twist significantly. This is why centerpull brakes offer such consistent 
brake modulation. It’s also the reason they don’t require toe-in. 
Centerpull brakes work best when the pads are parallel to the rim.
When we introduced the Compass centerpull brakes, the toe-in was not 
adjustable. In our testing of prototypes, we found that the brakes might 
squeal for the first few rides, but they became quiet as the pads wore 
until they were parallel to the rim. Most of our customers have had similar 
experiences."


On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 1:34:07 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Are the rims and pads clean? 
>
> Are the rims new? I've found that a hundred miles or so of not-too-clean 
> riding surfaces can do a lot to "match" pads to rims.
>
> I had horrible squeal and front judder with Tektro CR 720s on my then-new 
> 2020 Matthews (26" wheels on largish frame, so very long steerer). I toed 
> the salmon pads in to a comical degree and both stopped or -- judder -- 
> reduced to a barely noticeable hint under medium braking pressures. The 
> braking effectiveness remained much the same; that is to say, mediocre -- 
> but: when I replaced the Tektros with Pauls the braking effectiveness 
> remained the same even through the squeal and judder went away with the 
> same pads normally toed in.
>
> OTOH again, after several hundreds of miles on the pads the "force" of the 
> brakes is now noticeably better and there is no more squeal or judder than 
> at first. (There is just a faint hint of judder in front under medium 
> braking, but it does not bother me who am excessively obsessive about such 
> things. I can't drill the fork crown because of the deep front fender 
> mounting boss under the crown.)
>
> If I were in your place I'd increase toe-in and ride the bike on some 
> dusty roads and re-evaluate the situation after 100 miles or so.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[Patrick Moore]

Are the rims and pads clean?

Are the rims new? I've found that a hundred miles or so of not-too-clean
riding surfaces can do a lot to "match" pads to rims.

I had horrible squeal and front judder with Tektro CR 720s on my then-new
2020 Matthews (26" wheels on largish frame, so very long steerer). I toed
the salmon pads in to a comical degree and both stopped or -- judder --
reduced to a barely noticeable hint under medium braking pressures. The
braking effectiveness remained much the same; that is to say, mediocre --
but: when I replaced the Tektros with Pauls the braking effectiveness
remained the same even through the squeal and judder went away with the
same pads normally toed in.

OTOH again, after several hundreds of miles on the pads the "force" of the
brakes is now noticeably better and there is no more squeal or judder than
at first. (There is just a faint hint of judder in front under medium
braking, but it does not bother me who am excessively obsessive about such
things. I can't drill the fork crown because of the deep front fender
mounting boss under the crown.)

If I were in your place I'd increase toe-in and ride the bike on some dusty
roads and re-evaluate the situation after 100 miles or so.

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[RBW] Re: (lower price) FS Clem L 64 f/f/hs or semi-complete

[arthur]

How about 750 plus bike flights shipping for the f/f/hs? 

Art
Tacoma

On Tuesday, August 29, 2023 at 5:02:06 PM UTC-7 arthur wrote:

> Selling 64cm Clem L which I got last year from a list member. Great shape, 
> no dings, some light scratches and a few small ships in the paint. I love 
> the bike, but have another, semi-custom bike which I'm using more for this 
> purpose. I've used it only around town, and it's really great for that 
> purpose.
>
> I'm also willing to sell as a semi-complete build, if you prefer. I will 
> keep the fenders/saddle, and the rear rack, and possibly the wheels, but 
> will sell everything else, including the tires.
>
> Photos on craigslist here in SeaTac: 
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bop/d/tacoma-rivendell-clem-frame-fork-64cm/7660366383.html
>
> 850 plus shipping for frame/fork/hs
>
> Something like 1250 for the build, with other wheels swapped in, minus 
> saddle/rear rack/fenders? It's Microshift 9 speed, shifted friction with 
> old Suntour barcon, works well.
>
> thanks for looking!
>
> Art
> Tacoma
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: MB-2 frame, 26" dynamo wheels, RH tires, saddles, pedals, Suntour, Crust bars

[Eric Marth]

Hi all — Quick update with some price reductions, here's what's left. 
Thanks! 

PHOTOS HERE 


1985 Bridgestone MB-2 frame, fork and headset — $300

Velocity Atlas 26” wheelset, Kasai dynamo hub, XTR rear hub — $400

Rene Herse Rat Trap Pass extralight (26 x 2.3) — $75 

Rene Herse Humptulips Ridge extralight (26 x 2.3) — $75

Kool Stop Eagle 2 smooth post pads, one bikesworth — $15


On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 9:40:35 AM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:

> The following have sold:
>
>- Suntour XC seatpost
>- Selle Anatomica saddle
>- Hite Rite
>- Outer Shell stem bag
>- Brass head badges
>
>
> On Tuesday, September 5, 2023 at 2:13:41 PM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Hi all — I'm moving some things along. I posted this earlier and my 
>> message disappeared. 
>>
>>
>> Prices are net to me and do not include shipping. Let me know if you have 
>> any questions. Thanks! 
>>
>>
>> *PHOTOS HERE* 
>> 
>>
>> [image: IMG_7294.JPG]
>>
>> 1985 Bridgestone MB-2 frame, fork and headset — $350
>>
>> This is a 21” frame with some modifications. I documented the build 
>> process and frame modifications in this video 
>> . Seat tube is 21” center to top. Top tube 
>> is 23” center to center. Stout frame with rack braze-ons and bottle bosses 
>> added to optimize hauling.
>>
>>
>>- 
>>
>>Rear spacing cold set to 135mm
>>- 
>>
>>Hourglass braze-ons added to fork, 3cm below canti posts
>>- 
>>
>>Hourglass braze-ons added to seat stays 5cm below canti posts
>>- 
>>
>>Pump peg added to back side of seat tube just below seat lug
>>- 
>>
>>Original cable routing removed from top tube, barrel cable stops 
>>added at four o’clock position 
>>- 
>>
>>Third bottle boss added to top of down tube
>>- 
>>
>>Two bottle bosses added to underside of down tube
>>- 
>>
>>Modern cable routing guide added to bottom bracket shell. Please 
>>note: The cable guide is missing one of the small plastic retaining 
>> arches. 
>>The cable stayed in place for me but worth mentioning in case you want to 
>>replace the whole guide before assembling the bike. 
>>
>>
>> I had the frame stripped to bare steel, then I treated it with a series 
>> of metal patinas to develop a surface rust finish. Then I coated the frame 
>> with clear lacquer and finished with two coats of Renaissance Wax. The 
>> frame has developed some surface rust over the finish which I’ve treated 
>> with a light round of sanding with a Scotch Brite followed by a light coat 
>> of Boeshield. Frame treated inside with Frame Saver. 
>>
>>
>> The frame is a rich brown and looks lighter in real life than in the 
>> pictures. It is much darker in the photos here. You can get a better idea 
>> of color in the build video.
>>
>> WTB Grease Guard headset installed. I purchased this headset as NOS from 
>> Jacque Phelan and I have the original box available which is signed by 
>> Charlie Cunningham. Headset box included if you want it. Virtually zero 
>> stack in the headset (same as with the headset that came with the bike). A 
>> stem or handlebar mounted cable hanger will be required if you’re running 
>> cantilevers. 
>>
>> Includes a custom brass Bridgestone head badge. It’s attached with 
>> double-sided 3M emblem tape. 
>>
>> Local pickup in Virginia would be great but I can and will ship. Let me 
>> know your zip and we can figure it out. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_7284.JPG]
>>
>> Velocity Atlas 26” wheelset, Kasai dynamo hub, XTR rear hub — $500
>>
>> 100/135 spacing with 32H wheels front and back. Wheelset has about 400 
>> miles on it. Front wheel was built by Rich Lesnik of Hands on Wheels and 
>> Rivendell. Rear wheel built with an XTR M900 hub by Andre at Bike Works. 
>> Rear wheel built with raw brass spoke nipples from Sim Works. Skewers are 
>> not included. Tires not included, shown mounted for illustration. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_7309.JPG]
>>
>> Brooks Conquest saddle — $75
>>
>> The discontinued Brooks Conquest in black leather. Big copper rivets 
>> showing some weathering. Broken in, springs are bouncy. More narrow through 
>> the body than the sprung B17. 
>>
>> Hite Rite dropper spring — $40
>>
>> The *original* dropper spring. 
>>
>> Rene Herse Rat Trap Pass extralight (26 x 2.3) — $80
>>
>> Has about 400 miles on it, in nice shape, nice tread. Rubber whiskers. 
>> Extralight casing. Price is for one tire (only have one Rat Trap Pass 
>> available). 
>>
>> Rene Herse Humptulips Ridge extralight (26 x 2.3) — $80
>>
>> Has about 400 miles on it, same as above. Extralight casing. Rubber 
>> whiskers still present. Price is for one tire (only have one Humptulips 
>> available). 
>>
>> Suntour Bar-cons – $45
>>
>> Barcons, all parts accounted for. 
>>
>>

Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[Ben Mihovk]

For sure! I'll see if I can find time when I get home from work.



On Fri, Sep 8, 2023 at 12:12 PM JohnS  wrote:

> Hello Ben, maybe it would help the group if you were to post a picture or
> two of your current set up.
>
> Thanks,
> JohnS
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 10:56:34 AM UTC-4 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good to know...but if my brake is mounted on the fork, I'm not sure where
>> I'd mount a fork-mounted cable hanger.
>>
>> Ben
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 9:50:52 AM UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:
>>
>>> This is a common complaint with headset-mounted cable hangers. Changing
>>> to a fork-mounted hanger usually alleviates the problem. Shovel Research
>>> just released a nice one:
>>> https://shovelresearch.com/fork-mounted-brake-cable-hanger
>>>
>>> Jay Lonner
>>> Bellingham, WA
>>>
>>> Sent from my Atari 400
>>>
>>> On Sep 8, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Ben Mihovk  wrote:
>>>
>>> Good morning,
>>>
>>> I just got a new set of Racer (regular) brakes for my sidepull
>>> Hillborne. Everything's set up, the brakes are grabbing/stopping, but I'm
>>> getting the most horrific noises from the pads on the front brakes. I'm
>>> using the Kool Stop Thinlines that Paul sends with the brakes. I set them
>>> up following the instructions from Paul initially (no toe-in), and the
>>> brakes squealed on the first test ride. So I toed them in and now I'm
>>> getting this awful vibration when the pads touch the rims that gets
>>> louder/more intense with speed. The vibration can be felt in the
>>> saddle...all through the frame. Truly harrowing stuff here. When I full
>>> pull the brake levers, the vibration kind of goes away but I get a light
>>> squeal (even with brakes toed in).
>>>
>>> I've never set up centerpull brakes or any brakes with a straddle
>>> wire/hanger. I can't see how the problem could be from anything but how the
>>> pads are hitting. I've double checked to see that the unit is centered when
>>> I tighten it. The one goofy thing I'm noticing is that the right arm of the
>>> brake seems lower because I have the pad set higher in the arm than on the
>>> left side...but I've taken the pads off completely and recentered the brake
>>> unit and I'm getting the same results.
>>>
>>> I've read a little about how big frames (this is a 62cm Sam) can have
>>> the vibrations because of the length of cable and how tension varies
>>> through the pull (or something like that). I've also read that this kind
>>> issue could be from cheap/flimsly brakes...but I would hope that Paul
>>> brakes would be above suspicion here. I've also heard that if something is
>>> loose on the brake assembly, the vibrations can happen.
>>>
>>> However...I'm convinced it's in how I have the pads set...I don't get
>>> vibrations when the pads are not toed-in...toeing in almost seems to bring
>>> about the vibrations.
>>>
>>> Any ideas anyone has would be very helpful. I'm at the end of my rope
>>> and considering removing the Pauls and going back to the squisy and not
>>> very good Tektros Riv put on it originally.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Ben in Omaha
>>>
>>>
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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[RBW] Re: ISO 1st-Gen Clementine or Clem L Frame for 26" Wheels.

[Kim H.]

@Jon -
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/berkeley-rivendell-clem-complete-52cm/7657350903.html

Kim Hetzel
Yelm, WA. 

On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 8:58:41 AM UTC-7 Chromerails wrote:

> Looking for a 1st gen Clementine or Clem L frame designed for 26" wheels. 
> Family member wants to ride, but has limited hip mobility. Could possibly 
> work a trade including our 56-cm Rambouillet.
>
> Thanks!
> Jon Grant
> Austin, Texas
>

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Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[J G]

I am a big fan of the Racer brakes.  Would hope that you would not need to 
dump.  Set mine up many years ago, but seem to remember them not being toed 
in.

I would recommend going back to no toe in and first see if the squealing 
ceases once bedded in, before considering other changes.

As far as the shudder, big bikes with 1" tubes and a canti hanger above the 
top of the headset, is a candidate for said shudder so a plus that you are 
not seeing that when not toed.

On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 12:11:55 PM UTC-5 JohnS wrote:

> Hello Ben, maybe it would help the group if you were to post a picture or 
> two of your current set up.
>
> Thanks,
> JohnS
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 10:56:34 AM UTC-4 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good to know...but if my brake is mounted on the fork, I'm not sure where 
>> I'd mount a fork-mounted cable hanger. 
>>
>> Ben
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 9:50:52 AM UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:
>>
>>> This is a common complaint with headset-mounted cable hangers. Changing 
>>> to a fork-mounted hanger usually alleviates the problem. Shovel Research 
>>> just released a nice one: 
>>> https://shovelresearch.com/fork-mounted-brake-cable-hanger
>>>
>>> Jay Lonner
>>> Bellingham, WA
>>>
>>> Sent from my Atari 400
>>>
>>> On Sep 8, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Ben Mihovk  wrote:
>>>
>>> Good morning,
>>>
>>> I just got a new set of Racer (regular) brakes for my sidepull 
>>> Hillborne. Everything's set up, the brakes are grabbing/stopping, but I'm 
>>> getting the most horrific noises from the pads on the front brakes. I'm 
>>> using the Kool Stop Thinlines that Paul sends with the brakes. I set them 
>>> up following the instructions from Paul initially (no toe-in), and the 
>>> brakes squealed on the first test ride. So I toed them in and now I'm 
>>> getting this awful vibration when the pads touch the rims that gets 
>>> louder/more intense with speed. The vibration can be felt in the 
>>> saddle...all through the frame. Truly harrowing stuff here. When I full 
>>> pull the brake levers, the vibration kind of goes away but I get a light 
>>> squeal (even with brakes toed in). 
>>>
>>> I've never set up centerpull brakes or any brakes with a straddle 
>>> wire/hanger. I can't see how the problem could be from anything but how the 
>>> pads are hitting. I've double checked to see that the unit is centered when 
>>> I tighten it. The one goofy thing I'm noticing is that the right arm of the 
>>> brake seems lower because I have the pad set higher in the arm than on the 
>>> left side...but I've taken the pads off completely and recentered the brake 
>>> unit and I'm getting the same results.
>>>
>>> I've read a little about how big frames (this is a 62cm Sam) can have 
>>> the vibrations because of the length of cable and how tension varies 
>>> through the pull (or something like that). I've also read that this kind 
>>> issue could be from cheap/flimsly brakes...but I would hope that Paul 
>>> brakes would be above suspicion here. I've also heard that if something is 
>>> loose on the brake assembly, the vibrations can happen.
>>>
>>> However...I'm convinced it's in how I have the pads set...I don't get 
>>> vibrations when the pads are not toed-in...toeing in almost seems to bring 
>>> about the vibrations. 
>>>
>>> Any ideas anyone has would be very helpful. I'm at the end of my rope 
>>> and considering removing the Pauls and going back to the squisy and not 
>>> very good Tektros Riv put on it originally.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Ben in Omaha
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[JohnS]

Hello Ben, maybe it would help the group if you were to post a picture or 
two of your current set up.

Thanks,
JohnS


On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 10:56:34 AM UTC-4 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Good to know...but if my brake is mounted on the fork, I'm not sure where 
> I'd mount a fork-mounted cable hanger. 
>
> Ben
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 9:50:52 AM UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:
>
>> This is a common complaint with headset-mounted cable hangers. Changing 
>> to a fork-mounted hanger usually alleviates the problem. Shovel Research 
>> just released a nice one: 
>> https://shovelresearch.com/fork-mounted-brake-cable-hanger
>>
>> Jay Lonner
>> Bellingham, WA
>>
>> Sent from my Atari 400
>>
>> On Sep 8, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Ben Mihovk  wrote:
>>
>> Good morning,
>>
>> I just got a new set of Racer (regular) brakes for my sidepull Hillborne. 
>> Everything's set up, the brakes are grabbing/stopping, but I'm getting the 
>> most horrific noises from the pads on the front brakes. I'm using the Kool 
>> Stop Thinlines that Paul sends with the brakes. I set them up following the 
>> instructions from Paul initially (no toe-in), and the brakes squealed on 
>> the first test ride. So I toed them in and now I'm getting this awful 
>> vibration when the pads touch the rims that gets louder/more intense with 
>> speed. The vibration can be felt in the saddle...all through the frame. 
>> Truly harrowing stuff here. When I full pull the brake levers, the 
>> vibration kind of goes away but I get a light squeal (even with brakes toed 
>> in). 
>>
>> I've never set up centerpull brakes or any brakes with a straddle 
>> wire/hanger. I can't see how the problem could be from anything but how the 
>> pads are hitting. I've double checked to see that the unit is centered when 
>> I tighten it. The one goofy thing I'm noticing is that the right arm of the 
>> brake seems lower because I have the pad set higher in the arm than on the 
>> left side...but I've taken the pads off completely and recentered the brake 
>> unit and I'm getting the same results.
>>
>> I've read a little about how big frames (this is a 62cm Sam) can have the 
>> vibrations because of the length of cable and how tension varies through 
>> the pull (or something like that). I've also read that this kind issue 
>> could be from cheap/flimsly brakes...but I would hope that Paul brakes 
>> would be above suspicion here. I've also heard that if something is loose 
>> on the brake assembly, the vibrations can happen.
>>
>> However...I'm convinced it's in how I have the pads set...I don't get 
>> vibrations when the pads are not toed-in...toeing in almost seems to bring 
>> about the vibrations. 
>>
>> Any ideas anyone has would be very helpful. I'm at the end of my rope and 
>> considering removing the Pauls and going back to the squisy and not very 
>> good Tektros Riv put on it originally.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Ben in Omaha
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/4f5914bb-774a-43b7-b5b9-c943686493e9n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: New Build Day! Two Speed Road Bike

[Bill Lindsay]

I added a couple photos:

Drivetrain: https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53173631968/
Bike: https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53173144361/

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, September 7, 2023 at 9:28:14 AM UTC-7 EGNolan wrote:

> Anxiously Awaiting photos for APPROVAL.
>
> ; )
>
> Eric
> Indpls
>
> On Thursday, September 7, 2023 at 11:55:58 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Three random events triggered a rebuild of my Romulus drivetrain:
>>
>> 1. Blue Lug instagram photo of Grant with his 3x1 Platypus
>> 2. Joe Bernard desperately wanting to get rid of a Paul Melvin
>> 3. George coming through with an 18T single White Industries Freewheel 
>> when I offered to raid your parts box
>>
>> Because of the above, I decided to remove:
>>
>> Campy Centaur crankset with 39/24 rings
>> White Dos Eno 16/18 FW
>> FSA front derailleur
>> Deore XT springless rear derailleur
>>
>> What went on was/is:
>>
>> Ritchey/Sugino 172.5 cranks with 46/36/24 rings
>> 18T White Industries FW
>> Shimano Deerhead front derailleur
>> Paul Melvin
>>
>> So now it's a three-speed road bike, with gears of 70, 55 and 37 inches. 
>>  The Paul Melvin documentation says it'll take up 20 teeth, but it seems 
>> fine here at 22 teeth.  I'll add photos to the album.  This is really close 
>> to what I would probably do on a Roaduno.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Saturday, August 19, 2023 at 10:06:29 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> I pounced on a local 59cm Romulus.  That bike has long been on my list 
>>> of "I'd ride THAT" bikes, but it wasn't a terribly high priority.  This 
>>> opportunity presented itself and got to work.  
>>>
>>> Cutting to the chase: here's the album  
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/albums/72177720310604809
>>>
>>> The bike was a mostly original Riv complete Rom build.  It had a 
>>> mustache bar cockpit, and Silver bar con shifters, but otherwise was pretty 
>>> much stock.  It's got nicks and scratches beau-sage but was in mechanically 
>>> fine shape.  
>>>
>>> This is going to be a versatile road platform upon which I could 
>>> implement a number of different build concepts.  The one that had been 
>>> sticking in my mind, though, was a front-derailleur only road two speed. 
>>>  The forthcoming Roaduno is allegedly going to have both a rear der hanger 
>>> as well as the braze on bits to do a FRONT shifter.  Some listers vocally 
>>> proclaimed that "silly", but it seems pretty sensible to me.  I had not 
>>> executed a build of that kind, and this was my shot.  
>>>
>>> From "inventory" I pulled together a nice two speed road bike kit:
>>>
>>> The wheelset was "inherited" from my Crust Florida Man., which lives in 
>>> Michigan.  When I built that bike, I used stuff I had on-hand, including a 
>>> pair of HED Belgium rims.  Those are almost impossible to get anymore, so I 
>>> built a new set of wheels around cheaper and wider rims to bring that 
>>> wheelset back to California.  I just grabbed them off the hook.  I put a 
>>> pair of used Compass Steilacoom 700x38 knobbier on there (with latex 
>>> tubes!) and grabbed a 16/18 DOS ENO freewheel.  The rear hub is Surly Ultra 
>>> New.  The front is a Phil Track hub.  I tossed on a pair of Shimano 
>>> "CLICKR" SPD pedals.  
>>>
>>> The drivetrain centers on a Campy Centaur 172.5mm square taper cranks
>>> Origin8 sealed BB (110.5)
>>> blue chain guard
>>> 39T tripleizer ring
>>> 24T ring from the original Rom build
>>>
>>> The front derailleur is a heavily modified FSA that I had from earlier 
>>> experiments.  The shift lever is a Shimano Ultegra "triple-color" model 
>>> from he 1990s with an awesome return spring inside to make it really light 
>>> action.  The tensioner is a modified XT rapid rise.  There's no return 
>>> spring inside, from a desmodromic exploration.  I was able to adjust one 
>>> limit screw so it hits the 16T cog.  The other limit screw was too short, 
>>> so I replaced it with a long socket head M4x0.7mm bolt.  I can turn that 
>>> one with my fingers.  Dialed out the RD "falls" to the 18T cog.  Dialed in 
>>> I can push it to the 16.  
>>>
>>> The cockpit includes other parts box items.  I got the Salsa stem really 
>>> cheap only to find it's like 25.8mm in clamp diameter.  I was waiting for a 
>>> working-class build to force it to 26.0mm.  I spread it wide and got a 
>>> 420mm Nitto Noodle in there.  I used the stock brake levers and some orange 
>>> Newbaums.  I kept the original Nitto 65 seat post and installed the Brooks 
>>> Pro saddle reclaimed from "Shawn's Hetchins".  
>>>
>>> Now it's ready to ride (after the shellac dries).  Maybe this will 
>>> inspire some of the Roaduno builds later this year.  Enjoy
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Wheel Builder

[Fullylugged]

Velocity USA builds their wheels in Grand Rapids MI.  I am very happy with 
the set I ride on.

On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 8:13:50 AM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:

> I could use a recommendation for a good wheel builder. I've used 
> prowheelbuilder.com in the past and have no complaints. Not sure how I 
> landed on them. Just curious if there is another business that I should be 
> looking into? I'm located in Indianapolis as well, and would prefer sending 
> business to a local or at least midwest company if possible.  
>
> I'm looking for a set of 700c wheels for my Atlantis. I'm thinking I'll do 
> velocity cliffhangers with a SON up front and a nice rear hub. The rear is 
> not yet totally decided as I like quiet hubs but there are not many options 
> in rim brake, 36-40h hubs these days. I've got an onyx silent hub on my 
> crust and love it but they only go up to 32h and I'd prefer 36 or 40 as I'm 
> a big dude. Which is why I'm thinking about a white industry (loud as they 
> come) rear hub in 36 or 40h. 
>
> Anyway. I'd like to hear about your preferred wheel builders. 
>

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[RBW] ISO 1st-Gen Clementine or Clem L Frame for 26" Wheels.

[Chromerails]

Looking for a 1st gen Clementine or Clem L frame designed for 26" wheels. 
Family member wants to ride, but has limited hip mobility. Could possibly 
work a trade including our 56-cm Rambouillet.

Thanks!
Jon Grant
Austin, Texas

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Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[Ben Mihovk]

Good to know...but if my brake is mounted on the fork, I'm not sure where 
I'd mount a fork-mounted cable hanger. 

Ben

On Friday, September 8, 2023 at 9:50:52 AM UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:

> This is a common complaint with headset-mounted cable hangers. Changing to 
> a fork-mounted hanger usually alleviates the problem. Shovel Research just 
> released a nice one: 
> https://shovelresearch.com/fork-mounted-brake-cable-hanger
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
> Sent from my Atari 400
>
> On Sep 8, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Ben Mihovk  wrote:
>
> Good morning,
>
> I just got a new set of Racer (regular) brakes for my sidepull Hillborne. 
> Everything's set up, the brakes are grabbing/stopping, but I'm getting the 
> most horrific noises from the pads on the front brakes. I'm using the Kool 
> Stop Thinlines that Paul sends with the brakes. I set them up following the 
> instructions from Paul initially (no toe-in), and the brakes squealed on 
> the first test ride. So I toed them in and now I'm getting this awful 
> vibration when the pads touch the rims that gets louder/more intense with 
> speed. The vibration can be felt in the saddle...all through the frame. 
> Truly harrowing stuff here. When I full pull the brake levers, the 
> vibration kind of goes away but I get a light squeal (even with brakes toed 
> in). 
>
> I've never set up centerpull brakes or any brakes with a straddle 
> wire/hanger. I can't see how the problem could be from anything but how the 
> pads are hitting. I've double checked to see that the unit is centered when 
> I tighten it. The one goofy thing I'm noticing is that the right arm of the 
> brake seems lower because I have the pad set higher in the arm than on the 
> left side...but I've taken the pads off completely and recentered the brake 
> unit and I'm getting the same results.
>
> I've read a little about how big frames (this is a 62cm Sam) can have the 
> vibrations because of the length of cable and how tension varies through 
> the pull (or something like that). I've also read that this kind issue 
> could be from cheap/flimsly brakes...but I would hope that Paul brakes 
> would be above suspicion here. I've also heard that if something is loose 
> on the brake assembly, the vibrations can happen.
>
> However...I'm convinced it's in how I have the pads set...I don't get 
> vibrations when the pads are not toed-in...toeing in almost seems to bring 
> about the vibrations. 
>
> Any ideas anyone has would be very helpful. I'm at the end of my rope and 
> considering removing the Pauls and going back to the squisy and not very 
> good Tektros Riv put on it originally.
>
> Thanks!
> Ben in Omaha
>
>
> -- 
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[Jay Lonner]

This is a common complaint with headset-mounted cable hangers. Changing to a fork-mounted hanger usually alleviates the problem. Shovel Research just released a nice one: https://shovelresearch.com/fork-mounted-brake-cable-hangerJay LonnerBellingham, WASent from my Atari 400On Sep 8, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Ben Mihovk  wrote:Good morning,I just got a new set of Racer (regular) brakes for my sidepull Hillborne. Everything's set up, the brakes are grabbing/stopping, but I'm getting the most horrific noises from the pads on the front brakes. I'm using the Kool Stop Thinlines that Paul sends with the brakes. I set them up following the instructions from Paul initially (no toe-in), and the brakes squealed on the first test ride. So I toed them in and now I'm getting this awful vibration when the pads touch the rims that gets louder/more intense with speed. The vibration can be felt in the saddle...all through the frame. Truly harrowing stuff here. When I full pull the brake levers, the vibration kind of goes away but I get a light squeal (even with brakes toed in). I've never set up centerpull brakes or any brakes with a straddle wire/hanger. I can't see how the problem could be from anything but how the pads are hitting. I've double checked to see that the unit is centered when I tighten it. The one goofy thing I'm noticing is that the right arm of the brake seems lower because I have the pad set higher in the arm than on the left side...but I've taken the pads off completely and recentered the brake unit and I'm getting the same results.I've read a little about how big frames (this is a 62cm Sam) can have the vibrations because of the length of cable and how tension varies through the pull (or something like that). I've also read that this kind issue could be from cheap/flimsly brakes...but I would hope that Paul brakes would be above suspicion here. I've also heard that if something is loose on the brake assembly, the vibrations can happen.However...I'm convinced it's in how I have the pads set...I don't get vibrations when the pads are not toed-in...toeing in almost seems to bring about the vibrations. Any ideas anyone has would be very helpful. I'm at the end of my rope and considering removing the Pauls and going back to the squisy and not very good Tektros Riv put on it originally.Thanks!Ben in Omaha



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[RBW] Paul Racer Brake Noise/Vibration

[Ben Mihovk]

Good morning,
I just got a new set of Racer (regular) brakes for my sidepull Hillborne. 
Everything's set up, the brakes are grabbing/stopping, but I'm getting the 
most horrific noises from the pads on the front brakes. I'm using the Kool 
Stop Thinlines that Paul sends with the brakes. I set them up following the 
instructions from Paul initially (no toe-in), and the brakes squealed on 
the first test ride. So I toed them in and now I'm getting this awful 
vibration when the pads touch the rims that gets louder/more intense with 
speed. The vibration can be felt in the saddle...all through the frame. 
Truly harrowing stuff here. When I full pull the brake levers, the 
vibration kind of goes away but I get a light squeal (even with brakes toed 
in). 

I've never set up centerpull brakes or any brakes with a straddle 
wire/hanger. I can't see how the problem could be from anything but how the 
pads are hitting. I've double checked to see that the unit is centered when 
I tighten it. The one goofy thing I'm noticing is that the right arm of the 
brake seems lower because I have the pad set higher in the arm than on the 
left side...but I've taken the pads off completely and recentered the brake 
unit and I'm getting the same results.

I've read a little about how big frames (this is a 62cm Sam) can have the 
vibrations because of the length of cable and how tension varies through 
the pull (or something like that). I've also read that this kind issue 
could be from cheap/flimsly brakes...but I would hope that Paul brakes 
would be above suspicion here. I've also heard that if something is loose 
on the brake assembly, the vibrations can happen.

However...I'm convinced it's in how I have the pads set...I don't get 
vibrations when the pads are not toed-in...toeing in almost seems to bring 
about the vibrations. 

Any ideas anyone has would be very helpful. I'm at the end of my rope and 
considering removing the Pauls and going back to the squisy and not very 
good Tektros Riv put on it originally.

Thanks!
Ben in Omaha


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