[RBW] Re: ISO Brooklyn Riv Bike 'Gang'

[Adam Smith]

Also interested! Also in Bed Stuy with my Joe Appaloosa!

On Monday, January 24, 2022 at 11:29:45 AM UTC-5 chase@gmail.com wrote:

> Keep me posted if some rides get organized, for sure interested. I am in 
> Bed Stuy with a Clem L and a Sam. Sounds fun! Chase
>
> On Sunday, January 23, 2022 at 6:11:40 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>
>> I cannot do any riding with the group on a regular basis, seeing that I 
>> live about 90 miles south in Philadelphia, but if the group comes over to 
>> the NJ side for a ride or part of ride, I'd join you.  It's always nice 
>> meeting like minded people.
>>
>> Kai, I love your Roscoe mixte, and especially your homemade weaved 
>> basket.  That is art to my eyes.  
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>> On Saturday, January 22, 2022 at 7:41:51 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Cold rubber is fast rubber, let's shred! (says the guy with two kids and 
>>> a job that burns the present daylight hours away)
>>> I'd like to do a ride that started with a ferry across the river to 
>>> Jersey City, winding our way up to the George Washington bridge. From there 
>>> we could head north over the Hudson bridge to the Bronx, then weave our way 
>>> down the Harlem River and East river, crossing every bridge we can. Every 
>>> crossing possible might be fun? Or something less ridiculous would be fine, 
>>> if you're into that sort of thing...
>>> Shirley Chisholm gravel grinder! (or hoagies, heros, subs, whatevs)
>>> -Kai, of Williamsburg East and a sloppily dressed Mixte, among others
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 10:25:01 PM UTC-5 Minh wrote:
>>>
 Hi all, my name is Minh and i'm on the lookout for other Brooklyn 
 Riv'sters, maybe we can start a gang, and by gang i mean a bunch of slow 
 riders that will use our age, wisdom and sharply appointed bikes to 
 intimidate the go-fast riders in Prospect Park.  

 In all seriousness, i've got a Quickbeam here that i am desperately 
 trying to justify keeping in this cramped Park Slope apartment.  Something 
 that would go a long way towards that is to get out and ride with 
 like-minded folks.   Maybe when it gets warmer we can do a ride out of 
 town?  I know i've seen a sharply dressed Riv Mixte riding thru the park, 
 if you see me on my QB--you'll know its me from the over the top 
 accessories, please say hi!

 If this is interesting please reply here, i'll collect names and we can 
 start a local mini thread? 

 On a related note have a small pile of bike parts that i'm not likely 
 to use that i'd like to donate, if anyone is aware of a co-op that is open 
 taking donations, please let me know!

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Adam Smith]

I forgot to follow up. Tightening the D-ring as suggested here did the
trick of course. I turned it clockwise about a half turn, then backed off
that position just a wee bit during the test ride (in light snow!) and
found the sweet spot. Easy peezy! Thanks all!

Adam

On Mon, Nov 29, 2021 at 12:33 PM atreya...@gmail.com <
atreya.dee...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I would also check the tension the D-ring . I typically start tightening
> all the way , put the shifter under max tension and start loosening it
> until it barely holds it in that position. I have found that this gives me
> the right balance of tension.
>
> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 8:22:33 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:
>
>> From what you wrote Adam it's a matter of adjusting the tension bolt,
>> which I'm assuming is a d-ring, yes ? These are adjustable on the fly, you
>> want just enough tension to hold the gear. It's just something you get a
>> feel for, not too tight, not too loose.
>>
>> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:19:52 AM UTC-5 adamc...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell.
>>> Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most
>>> of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was
>>> a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.
>>>
>>> Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear
>>> shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of
>>> the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next
>>> largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and
>>> would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one
>>> cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that
>>> would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to
>>> the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out
>>> rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each
>>> time.
>>>
>>> I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like
>>> ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its
>>> own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all
>>> the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver
>>> shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some
>>> things).
>>>
>>> I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective
>>> knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts or tips?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Adam Smith]

D-ring, yes. I'll give it a shot, thanks for the tip. This is my first time 
using friction shifting on a bicycle so it's all new to me!

Does that d-ring / tension tend to need regular attention or does it just 
need to be dialed initially and then get on with it and forget about it?


On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 11:22:33 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> From what you wrote Adam it's a matter of adjusting the tension bolt, 
> which I'm assuming is a d-ring, yes ? These are adjustable on the fly, you 
> want just enough tension to hold the gear. It's just something you get a 
> feel for, not too tight, not too loose. 
>
> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:19:52 AM UTC-5 adamc...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell. 
>> Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most 
>> of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was 
>> a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.
>>
>> Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear 
>> shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of 
>> the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next 
>> largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and 
>> would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one 
>> cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that 
>> would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to 
>> the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out 
>> rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each 
>> time.
>>
>> I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like 
>> ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its 
>> own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all 
>> the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver 
>> shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some 
>> things).
>>
>> I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective 
>> knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.
>>
>> Any thoughts or tips?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Adam Smith]

Hi everyone,

I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell. 
Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most 
of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was 
a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.

Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear 
shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of 
the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next 
largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and 
would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one 
cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that 
would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to 
the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out 
rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each 
time.

I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like 
ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its 
own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all 
the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver 
shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some 
things).

I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective 
knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.

Any thoughts or tips?

Thanks!

Adam

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[RBW] Re: Correct Nitto rear rack size?

[Adam Smith]

I don't have experience with either rack or bike, but wanted to share info 
I happened to read on Riv's website 

 
the other day. Hopefully it helps:





*Two versions:Medium 32R, for frames up to about 54cm.  Platform is 34.3cm 
x 13cm.Large 33R, for frames bigger than that.
Platform
 
is 35cm x 13cm.*

*Both work with 700c, 650B, 26" wheels. To know for sure what size is best, 
measure straight up from your rear dropout eyelet to the top of the wheel. 
If you get anything greater than 325mm (13") get the Large one. Otherwise, 
the Medium will fit best.*

On Friday, July 23, 2021 at 3:36:29 PM UTC-4 gpgun...@aol.com wrote:

> Hello All
>
> I would greatly appreciate it if anyone can tell me the correct Nitto rear 
> rack size (32R/33R) for a Toyo built 56cm H/Hilsen with 650B wheels. 
> Initially , I was thinking large (33R) but now I am just not sure. The 
> older Toyo built Hilsen frame geometry has me questioning the optimal size. 
> Again, much appreciated.
>
> Cheers
>
> Gunner
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 2021 Appaloosa thread

[Adam Smith]

Hi all, I'm new around here. I've been lurking ever since I managed to snag 
a 60cm orange Appaloosa frame from Rivendell back in June, which was 
somewhat of a pandemic impulse purchase. I've wanted a Rivendell for years, 
but had no real intention of buying a bike this year...until I saw the 
email from Riv. I'm beyond thrilled and so excited to finally own a 
Rivendell!

So now Riv is waiting for me to make up my mind on components so they can 
build it for me. I might be overthinking things a bit. Help!

I'm stuck on what gearing and shifting to go with... 

Since I have a 1x11 on my 29er+ and I have 3x9 gearing on my roadie bike, I 
was leaning towards 2x10 on this one to try something new and it seems to 
give me the about right range for this "I'm not sure where I'm gonna ride 
this bike exactly, probably here, probably there, maybe over there" bike. I 
live in the Catskills, NY, so there's definitely lotsa hills, plenty of 
country back roads, some gravel and dirt roads for sure, trails too. I 
might take her bike camping, why not. Or maybe classic 3x9 gearing for the 
widest range possible and I'm so undecided. I'm happy to go with the Silver 
brand cranks, but do I need a chain guard. Ooh, those White Industries 
cranks are beautiful, but I don't need that. But maybe I do?

I've never tried friction shifting, so I wanna try it out. Was leaning 
towards just going with the Silver bar-end shifters and call it a day. Oh, 
but the Dura ace bar-end shifters provide both indexed and friction, at 
least for the 9sp shifters. Indexed only for the 10sp shifters, I think. 
That could be a way to try out friction, but have indexed mode if it ain't 
for me.

All else is decided, just hemming and hawing over these two last details.

Thoughts?

Take care, and happy to have found this forum!

Adam

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 8:25:50 PM UTC-4 esoter...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> Thanks for the compliment JS! It's a 56cm with 650b wheels. Such a 
> fantastic bike. Cheers,
>
> ~Mark
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
> On Jul 21, 2021, at 09:34, J Schwartz  wrote:
>
> I think that's one of the nicest set-up MIT Atlantis' I've seen.  Is that 
> a 56 or 53?
>
> JS
>
> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 8:59:12 AM UTC-4 esoter...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Kushan,
>>
>> Zefal makes plastic pump pegs that you can secure around any tube on your 
>> bike. I'm using one on my Atlantis to hold a Zefal pump and it works great 
>> (mine's an FPX , not an HPX, but they fit the pegs just the same). I've got 
>> an extra one if you'd like, let's say $10 shipped. PM me if you're 
>> interested. Cheers,
>>
>> ~Mark
>> Raleigh, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 21, 2021, at 07:45, Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>> Rad bike, Kushan, and congrats! 
>>
>>
>> I don't have any experience hacking an HPX4 but maybe you could add some 
>> felt washers to the piston between the handle and the main frame body to 
>> effectively add to the overall length of the pump when compressed. 
>>
>> https://www.mcmaster.com/felt-washers/
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 1:43:24 AM UTC-4 Kushan wrote:
>>
>>> P.S. It turns out that my frame pump, Zefal HPX4, is a tad too short for 
>>> 60 cm Appa (although it fits fine on 61 Roadini). To my knowledge, HPX4 is 
>>> the largest size pump Zefal makes. If anyone has recommendations on larger 
>>> frame pump (or hacks on how to make HPX4 work), please let me know. It's a 
>>> bummer because I just got this one a few weeks ago.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 20, 2021 at 10:41:24 PM UTC-7 Kushan wrote:
>>>
 After a few weeks of obsessively checking, finally got a note from Will 
 that it's ready. Picked up my 60 cm Appaloosa arrived today. I took it for 
 a quick 10 mile spin on local paved trail and ride quality has exceeded 
 expectations. It is joyfully upright (Albatross bars), planted, and climbs 
 well. It makes me want to just keep pedaling and forget about things like 
 speed, heart rate, and strava. 

 Here are some pictures 
 
 On Saturday, July 3, 2021 at 5:46:50 AM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:

> Thanks all for posting pictures of your Appaloosa builds. It has 
> inspired me to hang on to mine and give it more love. Question for those 
> of 
> you running wider tires (2.25) How much mud clearance does it leave when 
> riding a tire of that size. I am thinking about upgrading from 2.0 WTB 
> Venture tires to 2.25 Thunder Burts. Just wondering how well the tire 
> will 
> fit on Cliffhanger rims. Would appreciate any insight on clearances. 
>
> On Thursday, July 1, 2021 at 10:54:26 AM UTC-4 bp wrote:
>
>> Brendon - Nitto Kite bars. Ordered from Blue Lug many years ago. Keep 
>> swapping out, keep coming back time and again. Close matches are Soma 
>> Osprey or Riv Wavie. Beartraps are OK. Comfortable. Aggressive grip on 
>> shoes. And my shins/calves.
>>

[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Appaloosa?

[Adam Smith]

Hi all,

I've been lurking for a few weeks. I'm reading this thread with great 
interest as I managed to snag one of the orange Appaloosa frames from Riv 
and am now speccing it out so they can build it for me. For the front rack, 
I intend to go the route that Bones has chosen, the 27F Nitto Campee rack 
with the Wald basket, likely the 137.

Bones your bike looks great! Would love to see more photos actually. Is 
that the Wald 137 basket attached to your rack? Question about the Dynamo 
eyelet on the 27F, is the eyelet on the right side only? And I assume I 
would need the Nitto lamp holder to attach the light to the rack, correct? 
(hopefully this question didn't detract from the focus of this thread)

Take care,

Adam



On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 10:41:39 AM UTC-4 antc...@gmail.com wrote:

> Bones, that 27 looks great! My only qualms would be that it puts the 
> weight farther forward than a Mark's or 32f. I'm running a Mark's on a 
> different bike and actually drilled a hole in the diving board so I could 
> sit it as far back as possible. I'm a bit anal about the weigh being as low 
> and central as possible. I love the looks of your set up though, very clean!
>
> On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 9:25:27 AM UTC-5 Bones wrote:
>
>> I settled on the 27F for my Appaloosa:
>>
>>- Not nearly as bulky as the 34F
>>- Much stronger than the 32F
>>- Has four mounting points (I used the mid fork and dropout 
>>braze-ons, no brake interference)
>>- Can support a wald medium or large (without looking weird), or even 
>>just a trunksack
>>- Detachable pannier mounts (and looks pretty minimal without them)
>>- Dynamo eyelet
>>
>> If I didn't go with this I'd probably be looking into a Pass and Stow 
>> rack.
>>
>> Bones
>>
>> [image: 27f.jpg]
>> On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 9:22:05 AM UTC-4 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> This discussion is useful.
>>>
>>> I'm curious if anyone has tried the VLC Rockit rack? It looks like it 
>>> might be something in between the various Nitto options. I can't tell how 
>>> well it might work with panniers.
>>>
>>> I'm also curious about the Rawland options. (With an additional 
>>> low-rider)
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 2:35:07 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
 The 34f is a lot of rack. The 32f isn't enough rack for a basket with 
 any kind of load in it. Not even because of the weight. The wald basket 
 allows a small weight to put a torque on the rack that it isn't designed 
 to 
 take and Nitto says specifically not to do it. The Marks rack is actually 
 stronger in this application. Nitto still says don't do it but in my (and 
 everyone else with a marks rack + wald 137) experience it's fine.

 I have run a 34f mounted on my appaloosa using the supplied P clamps 
 flattened out into a bracket that screwed directly to the middle fork 
 brazeons. Very sturdy.
 If looks matter a 137 looks weird mounted to it. Mounted longitudinally 
 and the weight is too far forward and mounted normally the rack sticks 
 too far out and looks awkward. Mind you a 139 would fix this aesthetic 
 issue and give you huge capacity. However Rivs don't handle great with 
 lots 
 of front weight, in general.

 Can post a photo of the bracket hack if you are interested. Any bit of 
 flat aluminium with holes drilled would also work. Probably still can't 
 recommend the 34f though, Unless you* need* it.

 On Thursday, 15 July 2021 at 10:20:32 UTC+8 Ed Carolipio wrote:

> I ran the Mark's rack on the Appaloosa with four stays (the rear stays 
> mounted on the top of the fork), no diving board, wide canti brakes 
> (Tektro 
> CR 720), and a regular Wald. (Not sure if the Mark's will work with a 
> V-brake in that configuration.) For extra hauling, I would tack on a 
> Nitto 
> hub area rack with both racks sharing the mid fork braze on. That was my 
> preferred setup because it gave me flexibility, and no configuration 
> under 
> load affected handling with the Albatross bars and 90mm stem I was 
> running.
>
> I tried running a Nitto R14 with a "big" basket but that put too much 
> weight forward of the hub. I wouldn't have run the 32F for that reason, 
> nor 
> the Surly Big Front.
>
> --Ed C.
> On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 6:05:38 PM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:
>
>> On my Appaloosa I've had a Mark's rack and the Nitto big front rack. 
>> The Mark's rack which is similar to the 32F is a good rack. Light but 
>> the 
>> weight limit is on the lower end. I use a Wald basket and tend to load 
>> it 
>> up when camping. I didn't like the Nitto Big Front rack. In fact, I took 
>> it 
>> off only after a few rides. I hated the way the bike felt with it on 
>> there. 
>> It felt like steering a big yacht. The Big Front is also extremely 
>> heavy. 
>> If loading