Re: [RBW] Re: How rusty does the inside of a frame get without rust proofing? This rusty.
They're decent coatings that convert some of the Iron (III) oxide to a more stable form of Ferric Tannate. It's not magic, and will only convert a small amount of the rust, so it's not going to handle large rust deposits, or restore structurally unsound tubes. It's just a good primer for lightly rusted tubes, not "new steel in-a-can" Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Wool at 100*+
I don't ride in truly hot weather, but here in dryish southern California, I find even heavy weight wool to work as well or better than synthetics. Once you sweat through, you get a lot of evaporative cooling. (At least when moving. I wouldn't recommend wool for just standing around in the sun.). I try not to ride in temps over 110°, but I wouldn't hesitate to grab a wool jersey in the low 100's. I can also heartily recommend mesh wicking base layers. I have ones from DeFeet and Craft that both really help in hot as well as cold weather. Subjectively, they make it feel ~5° cooler. They also seem to cut down on the salt stains on my jerseys, extending the washing intervals. (Doesn't really make sense, as salt should just wick right along, but they seem to help.) Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: FS: Clearing out my stuff - Nitto, IRD, Dia Compe, PDW, VP, SRAM, Sunrace, Microshift, Wolftooth
Phil, I sent a private message expressing interest in the Nitto NTC DX, but didn't hear anything back. Please contact me if it's still available. Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA On Sunday, June 17, 2018 at 2:01:35 PM UTC-7, phil k wrote: > > *Update on what is left:* > > *Shifters & Brake Stuff* > > Dia-Compe 11s Road & 10s Dynasys downtube friction shifters > <https://velo-orange.com/collections/shifters/products/dia-compe-ene-11s-dt-shifters>, > > brand new (actual pic > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sO_-md68COVVaeNavbTd-rc8src8qGSQ>) - > $75 shipped > > Dura Ace SL 7900 downtube shifters > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ApyQLa66cLLsNiW7D298hb0XpC5mLbIe>, > right shifter installed and uninstalled, left shifter new - $40 shipped > > IRD Ratchet Brake Lever (pair) > <https://store.interlocracing.com/porabrlepa.html>, brand new (actual pic > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l2htYQtebXcvNn01RT3aaDvvtE4j2hhT>) - > $90 shipped > > *Handlebar & Stem Stuff* > > Gilles Berthoud bar end, road bars, cork, pair > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=10bim1tpZfc7LDVBpS0s3114MIuOloBX_> - > $10 shipped > > Nitto NTC DX quill stem, 26.0 clamp, 70mm reach > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p27AHOuQTCNJr9eTIJmzzxJvtN2mUTns> - > $40 shipped > > Nitto Pearl quill stem 26.0, 70mm reach > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zX3t2jZCf0aUmCz6MMLuleIKTH0cUhhR> - > $40 shipped > > Nitto Tallux 25.4, 90mm reach > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Fyj0SY5MWK22woD8nSr1fYwmEN3UVurs> - > $50 shipped > > PDW Whiskey grips, brown, pair > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lR1i65ER4tgzNgFf-E-AQBEWqlwV8VxU>, > new - $50 shipped > > > *Drivetrain Stuff* > > Microshift R10 short cage > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LZFT453NEQQlXL8X0fDXyGApABLgjh5q> - > $20 shipped > > Sunrace 11-40 10 speed wide cassette > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WHR_P_shWLZ2JZHCoHbBmARmCYV1S-BI> - > $20 shipped > > SRAM 11-36 10 speed cassette > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DAhNxapfTVxlfQjn0JG8tpQ_kpk0WrdP> - > $25 shipped > > > *Pedal & Misc* > > VP Vice Pedal, black, pair > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hJkOu4XZZPUjsRnGhd_N02Xy35nfKw6G> - > $40 shipped > > Topeak Road pump, 50cm long > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ffidMw6J_NO1bRSQObARsalMvW-o3yaR> - > $15 shipped > > Ruthworks Leather Straps, 17cm > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1oyEFXpLJ3GzR4wuIIAOVc0ZDgG7_fgts>, 28cm > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OJQWJywGrS73GAPm5km5bMTdZ8ULyOAQ>, 38cm > <https://drive.google.com/open?id=1f7MCHVwDKOVBymKGCXfy76IGRgj2rnaz>, > sold together - $15 shipped > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Keto Rivendell Commutes and 2 questions
1) I'm not an expert, but from what I understand, your body can metabolize glycogen from both lactate, and somewhat less efficiently from protein in your diet. I know my performance and energy levels took a real hit for a few weeks when I went low carb, and probably took 2-3 months to really bounce back. Now I can do rides of 3-4 hours without any food, and actually finish stronger. (I'm not hammering, but averaging ~150 watts, and 14-16 mph over a ride). 2) No, I actually don't get burning muscles any more. High efforts are cardio limited for me. Eventually, too much work over my aerobic threshold leaves my legs just weak and rubbery, but not burning or sore. Also, I found I don't get much if any post-ride soreness like I used to. I can do long rides, or some hard efforts that leave me spent, and feel pretty normal the next day. I do notice that all out sprints seem to suffer -- I feel I run out of steam sooner, but it isn't drastic. Maybe a 10% reduction. Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for aerobic base training heart rate monitors?
I've been using a Polar H7 chest strap for the last year or two, without any complaints. Seems to work fine with both my phone and gps unit. Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA On Wednesday, May 2, 2018 at 8:59:22 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote: > > What do Rivendell Riders use for aerobic base training heart rate > monitors? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Extreme Commuting--a checklist ride complete
I'm sure genetics plays a part, but quite a bit comes down to training and probably diet. I started eating low carb about two years ago, and noticed after the rough first month or two of riding that my legs no longer burned on climbs. (Overall speed and power took a hit during that transition, but recovered and eventually surpassed previous levels.) I've read as much research as I can find on the subject, and apparently, fat adapted athletes do a much better job recycling the lactic acid that causes muscles to "burn". Lactic acid metabolism isn't as efficient as burning glycogen, but it does produce energy. As a nice side effect, it doesn't build up to levels that cause pain or muscle damage, at least not for me any more. I can ride hard enough to feel like throwing up, and my heart will be about to explode, but my legs don't particularly hurt. When I've gone too hard for too long, my legs simply start to lose power. It feels like I'm pressing the gas, and nothing happens. (And I don't get any significant muscle soreness a day or two later like I used to.) >From my (evolving) understanding of exercise and cycling, there are basically two main energy pathways for us humans: Breaking down stored fat, or burning glycogen, a stored form of sugar that requires minimal oxygen for use. At lower intensities, your body uses more fat burning, as it takes 2-3x more oxygen to break down then glycogen. As intensity increases, you rely more and more on glycogen. That's great, until you run out of glycogen (Most folks only have ~2000 calories of glycogen available, and it can't be replenished as fast as you can burn it.) The whole goal of aerobic training is to improve your bodies ability to burn fat, so that you use a greater % of fat, and spare as much of the glycogen as possible for high intensity efforts. I know that like most carb fueled Americans, I was lousy at burning fat. If I wasn't eating semi-regularly, I would get very hungry, and I didn't have much endurance. Regardless of any other aspects of a low carb diet, I did get much better at burning fat. I found that I could fast for a day at a time without much hunger, and I haven't experienced a "bonk" like I had before. Where I used to run out of energy after 1:30 to 2:00 of hard riding, now I'm good for 2-3x as much, without any particular energy intake. (I get maybe 300 calories from my electrolyte drink mix over a 5 hour ride.) I'm sure this isn't all due to low carb and focusing on aerobic training, but I know I saw pretty rapid gains after somewhat plateauing on my previous training much closer to my limits for shorter rides. I don't think low carb is perfect for all athletes, but for cycling, especially long distance cycling it seems to have some real benefits. (Research seems to show your peak power and explosive efforts take a bit of a hit compared to a high carb diet.) Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA On Friday, April 27, 2018 at 10:15:00 AM UTC-7, dstein wrote: > > I need to dive more into the Dr. Maffetone stuff and maybe that will help > answer my question, but no matter how much or long or often I ride, my legs > kill me after 30-40 miles and 4k feet of climbing. I remember riding with > someone on this group (Ahem, Tony) on a ride last year where my quads were > killing me on a climb, and my fellow rider was very non-chalantly "oh, > weird, my legs never seem to hurt". great, i thought at the time, and threw > it off to genetics. Surely genetics help. But does this sort of training > help for the non-athletically inclined in terms of not having your legs > crap out on you? > > On Fri, Apr 27, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Cameron Murphy <c79m...@gmail.com > > wrote: > >> On Wednesday, April 25, 2018 at 6:23:47 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote: >> > If you’re needing recovery between rides you may be riding way past >> your aerobic threshold and riding yourself into the ground. If so, I >> recommend getting Phil Maffetone’s book(s) on building aerobic capacity. >> > >> > With abandon, >> > Patrick >> >> >> +1 to this. I've been training the last 6 months or so to do the coastal >> route at Eroica CA, and noticed a huge difference about 2 months in when I >> started applying some of Dr. Maffetone's ideas. I had been doing 30-45 >> mile rides at close to threshold the whole time. Making progress, but not >> a bunch. When I finally started paying attention to keeping my HR down, my >> HR stared getting much lower for similar effort levels. Previously, my max >> HR was about 200 bpm, and almost any moderate effort would keep it pegged >> around 175-180. Now, after probably 1000 miles of training, my max HR >> seems to be about 185, and moderate efforts keep my HR in the 150-
[RBW] Re: Extreme Commuting--a checklist ride complete
On Wednesday, April 25, 2018 at 6:23:47 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote: > If you’re needing recovery between rides you may be riding way past your > aerobic threshold and riding yourself into the ground. If so, I recommend > getting Phil Maffetone’s book(s) on building aerobic capacity. > > With abandon, > Patrick +1 to this. I've been training the last 6 months or so to do the coastal route at Eroica CA, and noticed a huge difference about 2 months in when I started applying some of Dr. Maffetone's ideas. I had been doing 30-45 mile rides at close to threshold the whole time. Making progress, but not a bunch. When I finally started paying attention to keeping my HR down, my HR stared getting much lower for similar effort levels. Previously, my max HR was about 200 bpm, and almost any moderate effort would keep it pegged around 175-180. Now, after probably 1000 miles of training, my max HR seems to be about 185, and moderate efforts keep my HR in the 150-165 range. I don't know exactly what changes have happened, other than I'm much stronger on the climbs, and my endurance is much better. Hard to say how much is due to working on aerobic fitness vs just the increased training volume, but I'm pretty happy with my progress either way. (I was moderately strong and fast before, but would hit a wall around 35-40 miles and just be done. Unfortunately, I haven't even lost any weight. I'm actually about 5 lbs heavier than last year, but about 10% faster, and didn't have much trouble with the 90 miles at Eroica.) Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Hitch rack recommendations?
I'll also give a big thumbs up for the 1up racks. After a nuclear war, all that will remain will be cockroaches, and the 1up racks. (Maybe a bit of hyperbole, but seriously, they make most other racks I've owned or used look kind of cheap and flimsy.) The racks can be adjusted as to where they hit the wheel. I don't think you would have any trouble with your Wald basket, as on my 700c sized bikes, the arms generally come up to only about 40% of the wheel diameter, and this could be made less by lowering the crossbar between the arms. The only possible trouble would be fenders, as the rack needs to make good contact with the wheels. They sell a fender adapter, which appears to just be a short section of pipe insulation so you can snug the arms up against the fender instead. That doesn't strike me as terribly secure, as you are putting all the force through the fender stays. (I have't tried it myself, but I've read several reports suggesting that they work just fine with fenders. So, maybe it isn't that big of a deal.) Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA On Wednesday, August 16, 2017 at 9:16:43 AM UTC-7, Michele wrote: > > Lots of love for the 1UP, and I like how compact it is when folded. But > son't those two wheel holders preclude having a small front rack with Wald > 137 basket on the front? > > On Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 2:04:28 PM UTC-7, TopsfieldRider wrote: >> >> I have the 1Up and love it. Holds my mixte and 55mm tires bikes with >> ease. Easy on and off. I can't imagine a. Ike it won't hold. Expensive, >> but the last rack you'll ever have to buy. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Breaking in a leather Brooks
There's a ton of conflicting information out there, so I'm not going to pretend this is gospel. That being said, I've had a half dozen Brooks saddles of varying ages from new to 40 years old, and have even re-covered two Brooks Professional saddles with new custom formed tops. Basically, your new B17 has leather that is smooth, strong, and relatively rigid. For best service life, you want it to stay that way, but conform to your backside. The best bet is to use a damp cloth over the rear of the saddle, and let it sit there for an hour or two until the leather is damp too. It will still be fairly stiff, but will be a lot more conformable and flexible than the dry leather of the nose and midsection. Then go out and ride it until you start to get some indentations in the sit bone area. Once it's comfortable, stop riding, and let it dry for a day or two. You can then give it a light coat of proofhide or other dressing. You now have a fully broken-in saddle that should last for years. (The B17 is kind of thin, so it's not going to last you decades like a Professional, or some of the older B17s from the 60s) The idea behind dressings like Proofhide or Obenauf's is to replace some of the oils and fats that were originally worked into the leather during the tanning process, but that are continually lost to oxidation / evaporation / crosslinking to various varnishes, etc. If you don't use any dressing, eventually the leather will dry out, harden, shrink, and crack. (Eventually means years or maybe even decades.). Dressings won't completely stop the effects of aging, but will help quite a bit. You really want to avoid any sort of softening oil like mink or neatsfoot, or even heavy applications of dressings. Too much oil will saturate the fibers, allowing them to slide past each other, which leads to premature stretching and a very short useful life. Lastly, the tension screw is really only to correct for a sagging midsection -- It's hard to avoid a bit of sag, but you don't want it to turn into a hammock either. Ideally the top will be hard enough that the sit bone indentations will only sink a bit below the level of the rest of the top. If the top is too soft, the sit bone indentations will continue to collapse, while the central ridge running from the nose to the rear won't. Taken too far, this leads to the dreaded "Ass Hatchet" effect. :-( The best way to correct sit bone indentations that have gone too far is to de-tension the nose, then soak the saddle underwater for an hour or so. Once it's saturated, you can press the top back into shape, then let it dry. You might need to stuff the inside with something to maintain it's shape, but I haven't needed to the 5 or 6 times I've done it to various saddles. Once the saddle is dry, you can give it a light dressing again. I've found the wetting / drying process usually stiffens up the leather a bit. Apparently the drying tends to force oils out from the fibers towards the surface -- hence the re-dressing when dry. I've put thousands of miles on saddles that I acquired with various asymmetries, or excessive indentations that were essentially reshaped to a like new shape that held up just as well as actual new saddles. The only failures I've had were with saddles that were already deeply cracked across the rear cantle rivets -- even then I got a year or two of use out of a saddle that looked to be on death's doorstep. Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: What is this and how do I get it off my stem?
That is rust or iron oxide from the inner surface of the steerer. Luckily, an anodized aluminum surface like your Technomic Deluxe stem is pretty tough. Some vinegar and fine steel wool should remove it without any further damage to the anodized surface. If yours was a regular Technomic, it probably wouldn't be anodized, and thus could be scratched by the steel wool. To prevent problems like this in the future, it is important to grease the inside of the steerer before assembly. (A regular, non-anodized stem would be even worse, as the aluminum-steel interface sets you up for galvanic corrosion. In that case, the stem would be attacked preferentially, leading to large volumes of aluminum oxide, and possibly a stuck stem in bad cases.) Cameron Murphy San Marcos, CA On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:29:46 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote: > > Came off my Sam. Exposed stem is clean as you can see.clean. Stem sunk > into steerer tube has some surface corrosion of some sort on the aluminum > Technomic deluxe them. How do I get the corrosion off the stem and restore > it to its original lustre? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Brooks b17 select - opinions?
Rene,
I would certainly proofhide any saddles I wanted to store long term. The
tanning process leaches a lot of the natural oils out of the leather, which
are then replaced to some degree at later stages at the tannery before
being sent off to Brooks. As far as I know, Brooks doesn't do any further
treatment to the hides before shipping the saddles off. Exposure to air
over time will cause some lighter oil fractions to evaporate, and others to
oxidize, forming things closer to varnish or wax than oil. The goal of
dressings like proofhide is to replace those oils, and by doing so, protect
the leather fibers themselves from drying out and or oxidizing, and keeping
the leather somewhat pliable. Left perfectly alone, depending on
temperature and humidity, the leather will eventually dry out and become
brittle and or crack. ("Eventually" may be years or multiple decades
depending on conditions, and initial leather quality and tanning) Some of
that damage can be undone by treatments like proofhide at a later date, but
it would be best to avoid the damage in the first place. I would
proofhide them before storage, and if possible, give them another light
coat every year or two.
Cameron Murphy
San Marcos, CA
On Wednesday, September 14, 2016 at 1:12:33 PM UTC-7, René wrote:
>
> If you are going to buy a few "extra" Select saddles to have for future
> use, would you store them as is or would you Proofide them and then store
> them?
>
> René
>
> On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 12:26 PM, Matt B. <matthi...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> The B17 Selects have thicker leather that doesn't stretch as easily,
>> which is a good thing. They still break-in and get really comfortable, just
>> takes more time. Mine's about 3 years old also and I've never had to
>> adjust the tension, whereas I've had other late-model B17's severely deform
>> in a matter of months (mostly due to rain, but the select model I have gets
>> just as much use and sees just as much rain).
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 14, 2016 at 2:02:12 PM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a Brooks standard on my X0-1 and 2 B-17 specials on my 2 other
>>> rivendells. Honestly, I do not think the B-17 standards are as durable or
>>> thick as they were 10 or 15 years ago
>>>
>>>
>>
>> This is my impression too. I have two older B17's that are much more
>> stout than the current normal ones. Anyway I hope Brooks doesn't
>> discontinue the Select models, or I wish they would make their normal
>> models just as good because the B17 shape is nearly perfect for my backside.
>>
>>
>> --
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>> .
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>>
>
>
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