[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Rivendell Cockpit almost new, an Other Rivendell Components

2013-06-18 Thread Checkerboard
Update, Monday June 17 5:45 pm PDT: Cockpit sold, other items sold, Here's 
what remains for sale:
 
Front and Rear Rich Lesnik Synergy wheels, Phil Wood Hubs, Jack Brown 
tires   700 x 36 mm wheels
Front and Rear SKS fenders, stays, and Sackville  Mud Flaps
 
Paid well over $700, sell both sets wheels and fenders  - and they're 
almost brand new in every way- for $350, plus shipping. 
 

On Saturday, June 15, 2013 11:14:38 AM UTC-7, Checkerboard wrote:

 I'm starting this as a new post, updating the pictures. I wish I knew how 
 to display them as thumbnails rather than empty boxes!
 First, ... Tim Buys the saddle and the derailleurs.
  I have the cockpit with noodle bars, Nitto stem, Shimano Tiagra brake 
 levers, interrupter levers, Honey leather Brooks wrap, and the bar end 
 shifters to sell as an assembled group. with the brake cables attached. All 
 these items totalled $406, not including labor to interconnect cables, and 
 wrap the bars, whipping with string the inside ends - that extra 
 Rivendell touch; I will sell them for 55% off or $*223*, plus shipping. I 
 posted to this message some new photos of the cockpit assembly. Nitto 
 noodle bars and Nitto Stem retail for $146, bar tape was $100, silver 
 shifters cost 78, plus cables... Levers, plus cabling already routed... you 
 get the idea. $223 plus shipping for the near-new setup. This will have to 
 go UPS as the bars won't fit in a Priority Mail flat rate box.
 I still have the wheels, pedals, front and rear brakes, crankset, chain, 
 and bottom bracket etc.
 I am behind on my emails so if not too much trouble, kindly email me with 
 your interests again. Needless to say, there were no takers for the the 
 whole kit of components. Hence, a modified piecemeal approach, calling it 
 Plan C.' Thanks, Peter


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[RBW] Re: FS: Complete Rivendell Cockpit almost new, an Other Rivendell Components

2013-06-17 Thread Checkerboard
Update, Sunday 6:20 p.m. PDT: 
 
The cockpit is sold, I think - I should know tonight; I was just asked by 
another for the bottom bracket. So, if both parties buy what they asked 
for, then we're down to the:::
 
Front and Rear Rich Lesnik Synergy wheelset with Phil Wood hubs front and 
rear, size 700 x 36, 36 hole 6 speed 120mm, mounted with as-new Jack Brown 
Blue Tuff tires (paid $713 plus tax) sell for $*370* plus shipping
 
Moustache Bars and Nitto Tech Std. 8cm 26.0mm stem, $*54* ; 
 
Front and Rear Brake Calipers BM 73 Bolt on Tektro R365 ($*60* for both); 
 
Grip King Pedals ($*32*.), 
 
SKS fenders, front and rear, both with Sackville Mudflaps and SKS stays and 
Hardware (not on receipt, but they retail for $88 so I'll sell them as a 
set for $*50*; 
 
Thanks,  Peter
 

On Saturday, June 15, 2013 11:14:38 AM UTC-7, Checkerboard wrote:

 I'm starting this as a new post, updating the pictures. I wish I knew how 
 to display them as thumbnails rather than empty boxes!
 First, ... Tim Buys the saddle and the derailleurs.
  I have the cockpit with noodle bars, Nitto stem, Shimano Tiagra brake 
 levers, interrupter levers, Honey leather Brooks wrap, and the bar end 
 shifters to sell as an assembled group. with the brake cables attached. All 
 these items totalled $406, not including labor to interconnect cables, and 
 wrap the bars, whipping with string the inside ends - that extra 
 Rivendell touch; I will sell them for 55% off or $*223*, plus shipping. I 
 posted to this message some new photos of the cockpit assembly. Nitto 
 noodle bars and Nitto Stem retail for $146, bar tape was $100, silver 
 shifters cost 78, plus cables... Levers, plus cabling already routed... you 
 get the idea. $223 plus shipping for the near-new setup. This will have to 
 go UPS as the bars won't fit in a Priority Mail flat rate box.
 I still have the wheels, pedals, front and rear brakes, crankset, chain, 
 and bottom bracket etc.
 I am behind on my emails so if not too much trouble, kindly email me with 
 your interests again. Needless to say, there were no takers for the the 
 whole kit of components. Hence, a modified piecemeal approach, calling it 
 Plan C.' Thanks, Peter


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[RBW] Okay to Post Riv Items for Sale Here?

2013-05-27 Thread Checkerboard
Hi Folks,

My daily driver is the Homer Hilsen, which is the finest bike I've ever ridden 
or owned. I bought the Sam Hillborn for my son's 21st birthday, and he's riding 
it daily in San Fran.

 I don't know if it's Kosher here, but I have a complete set of almost 
brand-new Rivendell components (everything but the frame) to sell. So, my 
question- does the Forum allow for the advertisement/ sale of bike components? 
If so, I'd like to compose a message with pics and fill you all in... if not, 
no problem, there's always Craigslist.

Thanks very much,  Peter in Orinda

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Wrap - Why Not Leather?

2011-01-03 Thread Checkerboard
Scott from RBW wrapped my Moustache bars in Brooks honey leather, to
match the B-17 seat. I love the honey caramel color, and the leather
has enough suppleness and thickness to obviate underpadding with
neoprene.

The principal reason (per Grant) not to use leather is because, once
rain-soaked, it takes forever to dry out. Solution for me is to ride
the bike in the dry season!

Checkerboard from Orinda


On Jan 3, 4:54 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hey Bruce

 fantastic review of various wraps and tapes etc.you just saved me
 a bunch of  $$ and trial and error, time, etc. I was looking at
 all the ones you listed.

 Im currently running cloth tape shellacked and was really interested
 in leather, looks like you get what you pay for with the Brooks
 leather tape. Because of cost it would have been my last choice, now
 looks like it is my first, thanks for the help. Im gonna keep running
 cloth for now and when it comes time to replace will try Brooks tape.

 thumbsup!

 On Jan 3, 4:40 pm, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:



  I've tried a number of leather wraps. My sweat a lot in the humid Alabama
  summers and leach a ton of salt. My observations on what I have used:

  V-O Elk skin sew ons: Look Cool, get gamey after about 2,000 miles of use. I
  used them without padding under and they were fine. Longer to install than 
  most
  other types. Bargain priced.

  Hitoshi perforated tape: Looks great, goes on easy, has double sided 
  adhesive on
  the underside. Lasted me about 1,000 miles before the edges curled up and it
  looked ratty. This tape uses the leather thickness as a padding and is 
  comfy.
  Medium priced.

  Selle Anatomica watershed tape. Comes with placeable gel under pads. Not
  adhesive backed, thin leather. Difficult to install neatly, doesn't stay in
  place, not comfy, surface finish begins to wear off immediately. Not worn 
  out
  yet so no mileage figure avail. Moderate high price. NOT recommended.

  Brooks perforated tape.  Similar to Toshi, nicer leather. has adhesive also.
  Looks good installed, very durable, have not been avle to wear it out yet, 
  have
  it on two bikes.  Higher priced.

  
  From: William tapebu...@gmail.com
  To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Mon, January 3, 2011 4:32:07 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Handlebar Wrap - Why Not Leather?

  Speaking strictly for myself, I've never tried leather because I'm a
  cheapskate on things like that.  Second reason is that I like the cool
  colors you can get and create with cloth, on the cheap.  Did I mention
  that I'm cheap?

  On Jan 3, 1:06 pm, AmiSingh asd...@gmail.com wrote:

   Question for the group.

   It appears as though there is a general overall preference for using
   cloth or cork handlebar wrap / grips rather than leather.

   Why is it so skewed away from leather, especially considering so many
   of us try and have our handlebar cloth or cork resemble the leather
   saddles on our bikes so closely?

   Why not just use leather bar wrap?

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[RBW] Re: Right Frame Size?

2009-08-10 Thread Checkerboard

I recently purchased the A. Homer Hilsen from Rivendell. Since their
facility is nearby, I decided to stop by and browse. I benefited
greatly from meeting with Jay and Grant; they went to terrific lengths
to get me properly measured and sized. I was also invited to try
several bike models with different bar styles. At 5 11 1/2, and with
a predilection for more heads-up riding posture, I was guided to a 63
frame and the Nitto Albatross handlebars. I basically gave Grant and
Jay carte blanche to outfit the bike with the components and
accessories suitable for my riding - recreational, moderate hills, one
to three hours in duration per ride.

I couldn't be more pleased with my AHH. I haven't seen fit to adjust
the bike at all since delivery- it feels that good! The bars are a
welcome surprise- no hunching over, but plenty of leverage for
climbing. Handling is perfect, just perfect. Everything is ball-
bearing smooth, light, and precise. The overall appearance is country
bike; fenders, mud flaps, and those oh-so-British tweed and honey
leather-trimmed bags make it an honest-to-goodness head turner. I've
had several bikers strike up conversations with me about how good-
looking and retro the bike is, and that gives me a perfect
opportunity to evangelize about the Rivendell Way!

On Aug 10, 1:04 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Mon, 2009-08-10 at 12:59 -0700, avillage wrote:
  I have an 84cm PBH and ride a 650B Bleriot frame. I had some worries
  too about the right frame size...there were a couple of 55cm's on good
  sale, ebay and here/there. Ultimately, I relied on Riv sizing and
  bought the 57. That was absolutely right on. One unknown that I didn't
  think about at purchase was the head tube length (height?). I wanted
  my handlebars at an absolutely comfortable height. I kept raising the
  stem until I hit my sweet spot, probably 4 to 5 cm higher then the
  saddle. The longer head tube made this possible...I could get the stem
  high enough without needed some kind of extension or other special
  nick-nack to make it work. So, not only the standover height and
  general fit were important for me, the head tube proved equally as
  important.  I used to have neck pain; its gone this year.

 Just out of curiosity, what sort of handlebars are you using?  
 And what saddle?

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