[RBW] Re: FS: Wolbis/Susie

[David Wadstrup]

Sadly, buying this beautiful bike is not currently an option for me.  But, 
I was wondering if anyone could offer what they think would be a max pbh 
for this large frame.

Thanks,

David
On Friday, March 3, 2023 at 2:49:25 PM UTC-5 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Bump. $3000 +shipping. 
>
> Rich built WI hub wheelset.
> 135 31.8 FacePlater with 65cm Tosco.
> Nitto S65 seatpost.
> DXR brakes and levers. 
> 2.5” Teravail Ehline
> Silver cranks.
> Silver shifter with 10sp Sram GX derailleur.
>
> On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 11:49:44 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm wrote:
>
>> Thanks Joe! Over the last few years I just haven’t seen them sit very 
>> often. At least I don’t “need” to sell it. Spring time and tax return 
>> season is coming. Haha. 
>>
>> On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 11:37:04 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Great bike, great color, it's just kind of a niche within the Riv niche 
>>> so it'll take a while to find the right buyer. Spring is coming! 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 10:54:38 AM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thank you Keith, I appreciate that! I feel like it’s a pretty good deal 
 so I’m happy to hear I’m not totally crazy there. Not in a rush for now 
 but 
 if it keeps sitting here I’m going to start riding it again soon! I took 
 the saddle of to help temptation.

 On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 10:40:50 AM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:

> Don't give up, don't get impatient or desperate,  and don't entertain 
> low-ball offers.  This bike is almost perfect:  best size, best color, 
> best 
> wheels, best crankset, best cockpit.  Someone just needs to realize it.  
> I 
> wish I could afford it right now  for a spare to my orange one.  Someone 
> is 
> going to be very happy though
>
>
> On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 10:09:06 AM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Finally got it all back together and cleaned up. Put a new Jim 13-42 
>> cassette on so I didn’t have to swap the other. Bike is ready to go!
>>
>> Asking $3000 +shipping OBO
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 15, 2023 at 11:06:46 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm wrote:
>>
>>> Frameset: $1700 + Shipping  (size large dark gold)
>>>
>>> Wheels: $650 + Shipping (Rich built Cliffhangers with WI hubs)
>>> On Friday, February 10, 2023 at 11:26:15 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm wrote:
>>>
 I’d definitely prefer to just sell this complete so offers are 
 welcome! I will entertain offers on the frameset or wheels as well 
 though. 
 People have asked but the offer has to be reasonable. Thanks!

 On Sunday, February 5, 2023 at 9:29:10 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm wrote:

> I decided not to sell the SimWorks Sugar built wheels so I thought 
> I’d post some pictures of it right now. In the middle of cleaning the 
> drivetrain so that’s why the cassette and chain are off. I was going 
> to 
> swap the brake levers for the Shimano DXR to match the brakes and 
> lower the 
> price. (Ran out of time so the Paul levers are still pictured)
>
> Rich built WI hub wheelset.
> 135 31.8 FacePlater with 65cm Tosco.
> Nitto S65 seatpost.
> DXR brakes and levers. 
> 2.5” Teravail Ehline
> Silver cranks.
> Silver shifter with 10sp Sram GX derailleur.
>
> Asking $3250 + shipping 
>
> On Saturday, February 4, 2023 at 12:38:48 PM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm 
> wrote:
>
>> Bumping this back up. I’m flexible on some build options so let 
>> me know if there is any interest! 
>>
>> On Friday, January 27, 2023 at 11:05:40 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm wrote:
>>
>>> I meant to put on the listing and forgot… I also have a set of 
>>> Rich built cliffhanger wheels with White Industries hubs front and 
>>> rear. 
>>> Wheels have 4-500 miles like the frame. Very nice wheels of course 
>>> but not 
>>> quite as spendy as the Sugar set with some use. With those wheels 
>>> maybe 
>>> $3500 is a better deal for someone?
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 24, 2023 at 4:38:18 PM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 [image: B414C93E-86E6-47E9-9F76-5FCD4A1E37EE.jpeg][image: 
 871130E7-A72E-4F9D-9880-C035FD4D722C.jpeg][image: 
 D74EFB62-6BA6-439B-8DC5-3547DAEDAE1D.jpeg]

 On Sunday, January 22, 2023 at 9:21:13 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm 
 wrote:

> [image: 77FC4744-B1FF-4403-8C3E-F8B6F9122F75.jpeg][image: 
> FCADB7EA-E8A7-4109-A3B4-3742F8072E3B.jpeg]
>
> On Sunday, January 22, 2023 at 9:20:26 AM UTC-8 Ryan Frahm 
> wrote:
>
>> [image: 

Re: [RBW] Does anyone know of a good metal plater

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks, Laing -- I'll look into them.  Good to know you've had positive 
experiences with them!

Getting in touch with Joe Bell is a great idea, Eric!  Thanks.  This 
<https://www.francescycles.com> is the guy who made the stem.  He was a 
pleasure to deal with, had a good turn around time, and good prices.

Thanks, everyone!
On Tuesday, July 27, 2021 at 12:18:05 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> Who made your stem? When I needed a steel stem repaired a few years ago, I 
> could not find a local builder who would touch it.
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On Jul 27, 2021, at 8:42 AM, A. Douglas M.  wrote:
>
> Beautiful stem!
>
> Best
>
> Aaron in El Paso 
>
> On Tuesday, July 27, 2021 at 8:10:56 AM UTC-6 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>
>> Try contacting painter Joe Bell (joebell.net). He has a plater that he 
>> works with.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy <http://youtube.com/CampyOnlyGuy>  
>>
>> On Jul 27, 2021, at 6:27 AM, David Wadstrup  wrote:
>>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> I couldn't find a horizontal 17/32 degree stem for my treadless setup on 
>> my Roadeo, that would accept both the correct steerer tube and the Noodles 
>> that I love so much, so had to have one custom-made.  It's beautiful and is 
>> raw steel.  I couldn't find a plater at the time, and because I wanted to 
>> get to riding this bike ASAP I mounted it as is, applied a few coats of 
>> Renaissance Wax and hopped for the best.  It's been on there for a quite a 
>> while now, and the maintenance is getting to be a little much.  I just 
>> can't keep myself from holding the stem when moving the bike around, and 
>> wherever I touch it, rust soon develops. Anyways, I need to get it plated. 
>>  I can't find anywhere local here in Maine that I can bring it to, and 
>> figure that since I'll have to ship it, I can ship it anywhere.  I'd just 
>> like to feel confident that I'm sending off to someone who I can trust to 
>> do a good job and to someone that won't plate the inside of the tube.  This 
>> is all a round about way of asking Does anyone have any 
>> recommendations?  Here's a couple of photos in case you're interested:
>>
>> 
>>
>> 
>>
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Re: [RBW] Yet another round of name that sound

[David Wadstrup]

Hello all,

While I've been reading all of these suggestions as they came through, it's 
not until now that I'm replying.  Sorry.  I am dumbfounded by all the the 
great ideas and thought people have put into helping me with my problem -- 
THANK YOU!  So... just yesterday afternoon I removed and reinstalled the 
cassette.  I also added a small touch of grease to the splines, as 
suggested.  I wasn't able to take it out do to a day full of rain, but I 
hope to tomorrow.  I'll report back on my findings.  

I ended up just making the one "adjustment" so I would be able to determine 
if it, and not any other adjustments, was the real solution.  I fit doesn't 
work, I'll move onto the BB.

To answer a few of the questions here.  all components including chain 
are in great, lightly used, condition.  This is the bike that sees the 
least use, even more so after a year of the pandemic, and I would imagine 
that everything has less than 1,000 miles on it.  I don't keep track of my 
mileage, and am a really bad estimator of it, so it could be even quite a 
bit less than this.  Definitely not more.  

I did remove and reinsert the seat post, and loosen and re-tighten the 
saddle bolt.  This has traditionally been the number one source of 
mysterious noises for me, but my fiddling had no effect this time.  Which I 
kind of suspected, given that the noises also occur when I'm out of the 
saddle.

Regarding the construction of the cassette... the 3 largest cogs are indeed 
on a "sub cluster assembly," which I found to be quite interesting given 
that it is only these three that make this noise.  Seems like the rivets or 
just the construction of this part as a whole, could be the culprit, as 
suggested.  Maybe my locking was a little on the loose side, and maybe 
there was some play between this cluster and the rest of the cogs?  I sure 
hope so!

Anyways, that you all for your time and the thoughtful replies -- they mean 
a lot!

I have another, unrelated question that I'll ask in a separate post.  See 
you there, I hope!

On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 8:32:48 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> Have you tried taking off the cassette and lightly greasing the splines 
> before reassembling? I used to get a similar sound on my Campy 
> freehub-equipped bikes, and this always worked.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On Jul 22, 2021, at 2:49 PM, RichS  wrote:
>
> Hello David,
>
> Lots of helpful solutions provided by the group so I'm sure you'll 
> discover the problem soon. In addition to the cassette noise do you notice 
> a creaky sound coming from your stem? Perhaps the sounds are coming from 
> multiple locations? 
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Thursday, July 22, 2021 at 10:28:17 AM UTC-4 bdcamp...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would try the following (assumning you have not already):
>>
>> 1. Swap the bb.
>> 2. Light bit of grease of the tapers when installing the cranks
>> 3. Uninstall and re-install the cassette
>> 4. Check the chain for wear and make sure the master link is proerly 
>> secured.
>> 5. Check the front derailer adujustment to make sure the cage it not 
>> hitting the chain or possibly somethig else
>> 6. If you re wearing cleated shoes make sure the cleats are tight. Lower 
>> gearrs means lower pressure/contact with the pedals.
>> 7.  Make sure the chainring bolts are tight.
>> 8. IS the spacer (if there is one for 11 speed ) the correct width?
>>
>> Good luck and hope you solve it quickly!
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 11:47:06 AM UTC-4 brettjc...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> This is going to sound crazy, but is it the saddle, seatpost, or their 
>>> interface? That's happened to me more than once, and I've chased sounds 
>>> that I'm sure are bottom bracket, crank, or cassette related only to 
>>> discover that in certain gears or at certain effort levels, my saddle is 
>>> clicking. (In fact, this is happening with a Berthoud on my NFE at the 
>>> moment. It only clicks when I shift my weight and ride upright at low 
>>> cadence). 
>>>
>>> Just a thought...
>>> Brett in Portland
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 5:35:26 AM UTC-7 David Wadstrup wrote:
>>>
>>>> We've played this game before, and I'm reluctant to begin another 
>>>> round.  But after a fruitless deep dive into a general internet search 
>>>> trying to identify the source of my sound, I thought bringing up my issue 
>>>> here might be of help.  Here goes
>>>>
>>>> I am the proud owner of a beautiful, creamsicle colored Roadeo that I 
>>>> purchased

[RBW] Yet another round of name that sound

[David Wadstrup]

We've played this game before, and I'm reluctant to begin another round. 
 But after a fruitless deep dive into a general internet search trying to 
identify the source of my sound, I thought bringing up my issue here might 
be of help.  Here goes

I am the proud owner of a beautiful, creamsicle colored Roadeo that I 
purchased from a fellow list member here a couple of years ago.  I 
purchased only the frameset, and built up it up myself.  A short while ago 
I began to notice a creaking, clicking, cracking-type sound when climbing 
steep-ish hills.  I loosened and re-tightened just about everything(except 
the bottom bracket) in an attempt to fix whatever the source of the sound 
might be.  No luck.  While out on a ride yesterday, I noticed that the 
sound was apparently getting worse.  I started to fear that there was maybe 
a crack somewhere in the frame, and made a plan to remove the crank and 
re-install the BB to eliminate it as a possible source(which I ended up not 
doing.)  But further into the ride, I happened to discover that the sound 
only occurs when I am in one of the 3 largest cogs on the cassette.  I made 
about 7 or 8 trips up and down one of the steeper hills on my route, and 
was able to confirm that it did not happen in the 4th, or 5th, or any other 
cog in back -- just the 3 largest.  

For clarification, I am running a Shimano 11sp Ultegra group.  The sound is 
NOT regular.  Meaning that it doesn't occur in the same place in either my 
wheel's or crank's rotation. It happens both when seated and while I am out 
of the saddle. It is more of a cracking, creaking, sound rather than a 
clicking sound(although it does sound clicky,) if that makes any sense.  It 
sounds like what I'd imagine a a cracked something-or-other to sound like.

I suppose I'll remove and reinstall the cassette when I get a chance, but 
figured I reach out to you all to see whether anyone has an inkling of what 
the trouble might be.  Please let me know your thoughts!

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: FS: 62cm Appaloosa F/F/HS

[David Wadstrup]

Good morning, Bones,

Just sent a PM.


Is anyone able to tell me what the PBH range is for this 62cm frame? I've 
hunted around online and can't turn anything up.

Thanks all!

David
On Saturday, January 16, 2021 at 10:07:04 AM UTC-5 Bones wrote:

> Bump. I'll drop the price for local pickup to $900. Make me an offer.
>
> Bones
>
> On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 3:35:29 PM UTC-5 Bones wrote:
>
>> $1000 shipped CONUS or can arrange for local pickup (NJ, outside of 
>> Philadelphia)
>>
>> Ever since I moved the kiddos over to my Cargo Clem I've had a hard time 
>> finding a job for my Apploosa. It's a wonderful bike but I simply do not 
>> need an All-Rounder while I have other bikes better suited to each type of 
>> riding I do. Two years of beausage. No dents or dings other than some mild 
>> depressions on the chainstays from the super-duper kickstand I used to use. 
>> There are some moderate scrapes near the crank and inside the drive side 
>> chainstay (loose chain incident). Other small scrapes here and there. The 
>> attached pictures should show it all.
>>
>> Please PM me with any questions. Thanks!
>> Bones
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Studded Tire Experience, help

[David Wadstrup]

Hi Michael,

Thanks for the link!  I actually just moved here from Brooklyn.  Riding 
around the city on snowy days was one of my favorite things to do.  Just 
unfortunate the city saw so little snow the last couple of years.  And yes, 
I agree with you on the green of the ICT -- I love it.  I had originally 
thought it would be the smart choice, but after reading a bunch of reviews 
and commentaries, decided that the less aggressive Wednesday would be 
better.  A lot of people also feel the q-factor is just too extreme.

Hi Chris,

I'm on the coast a bit north of you in Camden, and ride primarily on the 
local trails here -- in Camden State Park, Snow Bowl, etc.  I really 
appreciated hearing your advice -- it's seeming like the consensus says a 
fatbike is the way to go if I'm going to be able to continue riding trails 
in the snow(whether packed or groomed or unpacked.)  Glad I'm figuring this 
out now as the 29 x 2.6" studded tires would be a $400 investment.  Not at 
all worth it to me if it's only going to be fun using them during the early 
and late season transitions.  H.  What kind of fatbike do you ride?

Best,

David

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 10:18:45 AM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:

> Hi  David. Maine native and avid fat bike and winter cycling enthusiast 
> here. You didn't say which part of the state you are in. This makes a 
> difference, north or south, coastal or mountains, the weather and snow 
> conditions are quite different. I'm guessing, since you're asking about 
> riding on icy, packed trails, that like me, you are in the southern part of 
> the state. My observation of the last several years is that you typically 
> would get a few days a year at most where skinny (meaning not fat bike 
> tires, less than 3.8" actual width) studded tires are usable. The current 
> conditions here contradict that, but if there's nothing else to know about 
> Maine winter trail conditions, know that they're variable and change 
> rapidly. Looking at the long range forecast, if you buy some skinny studs 
> now, you might get a week or more use out of them, at least. This is 
> unusual.
>
> Something to note is that many local trail groups have bought snow 
> groomers in the past few years, and they put a lot of time and money into 
> grooming the trails. Please, please, do not ride skinny tires on groomed 
> trails. If you slice ruts into them, no one will be happy. There's a 
> growing community of fat bike riders and more and more opportunities to 
> ride in the winter. My 2 cents is if you want to really enjoy trail riding 
> here in the winter, get a fat bike. One that can fit 26x5" tires is best, 
> as that will give you the most opportunity to ride in the widest range of 
> conditions.
>
> Chris
>
>
> On Thursday, January 7, 2021 at 9:48:58 AM UTC-5 David Wadstrup wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I recently moved to Maine, and would really like to keep riding trails 
>> even in these snowy, icy conditions.  So, I'm hoping for some advice.  I 
>> initially thought a fat bike might be in order, but after diving deep into 
>> Surly Wednesday research, I've decided that it's just not for me -- I'd 
>> much rather ski, or even snowshoe, if there's a significant amount of new, 
>> unpacked snow.  What I'm mostly interested in riding is our local, hilly, 
>> graveled trails that are fully snow covered and that see a lot of foot 
>> traffic even in winter(walkers, skiers, snowshoers, fat bike riders, even 
>> some snowmobiles.)  So here are my questions to those of you who have 
>> experience with winter trail riding...
>>
>> 1) I can fit a 2.6 tire on my Susie.  Is this fat enough to ride snowy, 
>> icy, chewed up, packed trails?  I'm sure it's possible, but is fun?  I know 
>> a fat bike would give better float, and roll over everything more, but 
>> would my plus sized 29er tires handle it ok? Would it float enough and roll 
>> over enough to make investing in a set of VERY expensive 2.6 studded tires 
>> be worth it?  Or will it just be mostly a slog?
>>
>> 2) Regarding studded tires...I've used 40mm wide Nokian Hakkas for 
>> wintertime commuting in the city, but am going to need something wider, 
>> something designed for trail riding.  The two best options as far as I can 
>> see are the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pros and the 45North Wrathchilds.  The 
>> Schwalbes only come in a 2.25" width, the 45Norths in a 2.6".  Obviously, 
>> wider sounds better, but there are some mitigating factors... 
>>
>> On the one hand, the 45Norths are considerably more expensive than the 
>> Schwalbes.  They have less studs, and they seem to be prone to exceptional 
>> stud loss and have garnered a number of negative reviews.

[RBW] Studded Tire Experience, help

[David Wadstrup]

Hello,

I recently moved to Maine, and would really like to keep riding trails even 
in these snowy, icy conditions.  So, I'm hoping for some advice.  I 
initially thought a fat bike might be in order, but after diving deep into 
Surly Wednesday research, I've decided that it's just not for me -- I'd 
much rather ski, or even snowshoe, if there's a significant amount of new, 
unpacked snow.  What I'm mostly interested in riding is our local, hilly, 
graveled trails that are fully snow covered and that see a lot of foot 
traffic even in winter(walkers, skiers, snowshoers, fat bike riders, even 
some snowmobiles.)  So here are my questions to those of you who have 
experience with winter trail riding...

1) I can fit a 2.6 tire on my Susie.  Is this fat enough to ride snowy, 
icy, chewed up, packed trails?  I'm sure it's possible, but is fun?  I know 
a fat bike would give better float, and roll over everything more, but 
would my plus sized 29er tires handle it ok? Would it float enough and roll 
over enough to make investing in a set of VERY expensive 2.6 studded tires 
be worth it?  Or will it just be mostly a slog?

2) Regarding studded tires...I've used 40mm wide Nokian Hakkas for 
wintertime commuting in the city, but am going to need something wider, 
something designed for trail riding.  The two best options as far as I can 
see are the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pros and the 45North Wrathchilds.  The 
Schwalbes only come in a 2.25" width, the 45Norths in a 2.6".  Obviously, 
wider sounds better, but there are some mitigating factors... 

On the one hand, the 45Norths are considerably more expensive than the 
Schwalbes.  They have less studs, and they seem to be prone to exceptional 
stud loss and have garnered a number of negative reviews.  There are two 
versions of them, though.  One, a 60TPi version with "regular" sized studs; 
two, a 120TPI version with "XL" sized studs.  They are similar in price. 
 From what I can gather, the 120/XL version seems to be the version that 
sees the most stud loss and is the one almost all of the online negative 
reviews reference.  Does anyone have any experience with either of these 
versions?  Is my assumption that the 60TPI loses less studs correct?  What 
do you think of this tire generally?  Is it wide enough for packed, snowy 
trails?

On the other hand, the Schwalbe Ice Spikers are much less expensive.  They 
have considerably more studs.  Their current version seem to have far few 
negative reviews.  But they are .35" narrower -- that's 9mm! I would think 
that this 9mm would make a huge difference in performance in the conditions 
I'm looking to use them in, but maybe it won't?  Maybe 2.25 and 2.6 tires 
will be comparable? Maybe the greater stud count and better reviews and 
lower cost outweighs the extra width of the 45North?  What  do you think?

Thanks for whatever advice you might have.  Oh, and in case it makes a 
difference --  I'll be running them with tubes and will not need to ride 
these tires on pavement before getting to the trailhead(it's right outside 
my door, practically!)

Thanks,

David


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[RBW] Re: FS Compass Stampede Pass tires(x2)

[David Wadstrup]

The tires have sold.  Thanks everyone.

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[RBW] Re: FS Nitto stem, Technomic Deluxe, I believe

[David Wadstrup]

Hi Peter.  It's yours!  Thank you.  You can email me directly at dwadstrup 
at g mail dot com.  Venmo is my preferred method of payment since there are 
no fees, but Paypal will work, too.  Let me know here if you email me and 
don't hear back.
On Saturday, September 12, 2020 at 6:56:07 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

>   Peter, At this time you have to switch to the classic groups with a 
> desktop browser format to be able to "reply to author".  No one knows why 
> it's not working with the new/not-really-improved group format .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Nitto stem, Technomic Deluxe, I believe

[David Wadstrup]

Bump...  thought I'd give this another chance here before moving it over to 
eBay.  Let me know if you're interested.

Thanks for looking,

David

On Sunday, August 30, 2020 at 9:24:35 AM UTC-4 David Wadstrup wrote:

> couple more photos..
>
> [image: IMG_1951.jpeg][image: IMG_1950.jpeg]
>
> On Sunday, August 30, 2020 at 9:23:34 AM UTC-4 David Wadstrup wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I'm not 100% certain, but I think this model is called the Technomic 
>> Deluxe.  It's got the same finish as the Tallux, but is shorter in length. 
>>  This one has a 26.0 bar clamp diameter and 11cm reach.  The max extension 
>> is about 115mm.  It's in great, slightly used condition with just the usual 
>> twisty scratches where it was inserted into the headtube below the "max 
>> height" line.  
>>
>> Asking $30 plus $10 shipping CONUS.
>>
>> [image: IMG_1947.jpeg][image: IMG_1949.jpeg][image: IMG_1952.jpeg][image: 
>> IMG_1948.jpeg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Schwalbe Supreme 700x35, 2 used tires, 1 tube

[David Wadstrup]

The tires have sold.  Thank you, everyone.


>

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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks so much for the continued ideas!

Hi Dareck,

I just read up on redishing wheels -- could be a good solution that lets me 
have may cake and eat it too.

iamkeith,

I'm hoping the chainstays will do exactly what you think they will -- 
minimize the any issues that larger differentials might give rise to.

DSTRONG,

The BB did come with additional spacers, but I wasn't sure I could use 
them.  I followed Shimano's specifications when installing in a 73mm shell, 
but they said nothing else about being able to use more to tweak chainline. 
 Do you know whether this is something people commonly do?

Joe,

I'm using Shimano's XT 10-45 cassette.  Simply not using that gear is the 
easiest solution requiring no alterations or work arounds.  And I'll 
probably be just fine without it.  I think you're right about Grant's 
theory about the rubbing not being such a big deal in practice -- I might 
not even notice it, and shouldn't have any issue as long as I shift prior 
to descending.


Beautiful bike, John!

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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Good morning.

Thanks, Kurt.  I I struggled with the 1x vs 2x decision for a long time 
before committing to the 2x.  And I was pretty confident I made the right 
decision until now.  I think you're right, the 1x would solve my problem 
 --  that 1 ring would sit, I think, almost exactly where my current big 
ring now sits.  And I get no chain rub while in the big-big combo.  Not a 
ton of clearance, but it's definitely not touching.  The only problem, and 
this is a huge one, is that I've already bought and mounted all the 2x 
parts -- crankset, cassette, derailer, and even left hand shifter.  These 
would all have to be replaced at great cost, unfortunately.  So, as much as 
I might be wishing I'd gone 1x, I think either a new skinnier tire, or 
simply not using the low-low gear of the 2x makes a lot more sense 
money-wise.  Now, if it turns out that I don't get good shifting with this 
set-up, or if chainsuck becomes and issue, you just might see a bunch a 
lightly used 2x12 XT parts for sale on eBay to fund new 1x stuff.

Glad to hear that you like the Honchos!  Oh, and can you explain what a 
"clutch derailer" is?  I've looked at the differences between Shimano's 12 
speed XT RDs and neither mentions a clutch.  The only difference, as far as 
I can tell, seems to be capacity.  Am I missing something? What is a clutch?



Thanks, Ryan.  Thank you for the photos.  I agree with everyone else here 
and think you should also send along a couple of the complete bike.  Wow... 
you mean a Bombadil might come up for sale?  That's going to be very 
tempting to many.  Why are you reconsidering your idea for a 1x12 Gus? 
 Sounds like it would have been great -- you'd get all the benefits of a 1x 
set-up, plus the ability to run the widest tires these bikes can handle. 
 Just curious...



Thanks, Ed.  You know, that was the first potential solution I thought of, 
and the one which sent me down the path to discovering what in the world 
"Boost" was.  But I ended up quickly discounting it because it 
seemed(wrongly it turns out) that running a Boost crank required also 
running a Boost rear hub.  So, essentially it would move my inner chainring 
outboard by 3mm, correct?  If so, and I just learned this, I don't know 
whether it'd be enough to get the chain to clear the tire.  I just measured 
the chain/tire clearance while in big-big.  It is only 3mm.  But the big 
ring in about 6mm outboard of the inner ring.  So, if moving the ring out 
6mm gives only 3mm of chain clearance, how much will moving the ring out 
only 3mm, I wonder?  1.5mm?  Less?  This is definitely a preferable 
solution(if it works) to shrinking the tire, so thank you for it!  But my 
one concern is the increased chainline differential.  I currently have 7mm, 
and this would make it 10mm.  Does anyone know what a sound limit is before 
getting sub-optimal shifting performance?  I'd really love to know.


Thanks so much to everyone!  This really has been a fun education!


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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Jeff,

Thanks so much for such a detailed explanation!  This really put all the 
technologies and standards in perspective and helped me wrap my head around 
everything.  What a experience that ride must have been!  I'm thoroughly 
jealous.

Best,

David

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Also, I'd just like to say generally that I am EXCEPTIONALLY happy with and 
excited about this bike!  The chain issue I was seeking help with has in no 
way altered my appreciation of this unbelievably smart and well made bike. 
 I feel really fortunate to be the proud owner of one and am super grateful 
to Rivendell for making it.  I'm also really grateful to everyone here 
who's helped me expand my amateur bike mechanic skills.  Thank you!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Hi Kim,

I've ridden other long wheelbased Rivs offroad and have never noticed or 
had any kind of problem with the chain flopping around.  And I'm definitely 
not worried about it happening with the Susie.

Thanks for passing the info along!


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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Oh... two other things of note

1) my 2.6" Honchos measure 2.55" on Cliffhangers when inflated to 20psi.

2) regarding that differential... the Susie's beautifully long chainstays 
will help mitigate any issues, I would think and hope.  The longer the 
stays the straighter the chain, right?

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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

This might be too much information, but for those who are curious, I just 
measured for chainline on the Susie.  Shimano's claim of a 48.8 chainline 
on its 2x12 crank is spot on -- I measured 48.7.  The measurement in back, 
however, turned out to be approx. 41.5.  That's a touch over a 7mm 
differential from front to back.  From what I've gathered on the internet 
just now, a differential in mtb drivetrains is to be expected.  But, I also 
gathered that 7mm isn't a small differential, and that extra wear and noise 
may result(still waiting on my FD before I can install the chain and test 
it out.)  So, it seems moving the chainrings outboard to get the chain 
to clear the tire isn't going to work -- it'll increase the already sizable 
differential.  Looks like a narrower tire is in order.  I'll continue the 
build as is and see how it all works while riding and not just in the 
stand.  Hopefully the rub will either disappear or not be such a big deal. 
 If it doesn't disappear and it does turn out to be an issue, I'll just buy 
a new narrower, 2.4 version of the Honcho and sell the spare 2.6 I'll have. 
 That should move the drive-side side of the rear tire inboard about 2.5mm, 
which should be enough.

Anyways, keep the suggestions on fixes coming, and let me know if none of 
this makes any sense.

Thanks again!



On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 8:06:43 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
>
>
>   Yeah David I'm with you on a not so wide tire as they have their own 
> quirks as you've found out. I was all set on getting a 2.6 tire for my 
> Susie at first, then realized I'll be riding it on pavement a whole lot 
> more that off so I settled on a Vittoria Mezcal 2.25 as more than good 
> enough for now. Those tires run if anything to spec or larger. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Good morning.

Thanks, Joe.  I think that's what it's going to come to.  I'd bet it'd be 
ok. I just know know whether it'll move the chainline out far enough, and 
whether it would impact shifting.  Moving the crank out 2.5 will likely 
only buy me about 1.7 or so at the chain/tire point of contact. And I'm 
betting shifting would be impacted.

Thanks, Ed.  I really appreciate you taking the time to look into Shimano's 
specs. Thank you!  The set up you describe is exactly how I have it set up 
now.  I've got one 2.5mm spacer on the drive side and none on the other. 
 I'm wondering... what would putting a second 2.5 spacer on the drive side 
do?  Would it solve the problem or create more problems?  My hunch is it 
would create more problems.

Thanks, Garth.  Swapping a rear cog out for an inboard spacer is a solution 
I read about last night.  I am like you, and don't have a great need for 
that tiny little cog.  But, I'm reluctant to take this course of action. 
 Like most people here, I strive for a degree of simplicity and an 
avoidance of over complication in my bikes.  But with this particular build 
I've decided to embrace whole hog Shimano's current 12 speed, super 
complicated technology.  I figured it'd be interesting, at least.  Because 
of this, I wouldn't be super excited about modifying their parts and 
loosing a cog to make something work that doesn't work.  I think I'd 
rather(though very reluctantly) just choose a narrower rear tire.  But I 
sincerely do appreciate the suggestion and hope to hear more.

I can't thank you all enough!


>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks, aeroperf,

Yes, Hollowtech II. The BB and crank are definitely both mountain — a part of 
their XT lineup. And the Susie’s shell is actually 73mm. Apparently, the XT 
cranks give a 48.8 chainline. 

Extra shims were included with the BB, but I figured they were there for the 
use with a 68 shell. What do you think... would adding one to the drive side 
have any negative repurcussions? 

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[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks, Mark,

Yes, you’re right, they’re the 2.6 Honchos. Dropping down a size in the 
back(2.4?) will probably be the easiest, most effective solution.  It’s not 
something I really want to do, though, so I’m going to hold out for another 
fixe that might present itself.  

I’ll keep you posted as it sounds like you might come up against the same. 

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[RBW] Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[David Wadstrup]

Hello,

I've been building my Susie over the past couple of days, and just 
discovered I've got an issue with the chain rubbing the rear tire when I'm 
in the lowest gear.  It's a Shimano 2x12 drivetrain, and seeing as it's not 
a square taper BB, and has more than 9 speeds, I'm out of my league.  The 
tire is a 2.6 Teravail.  Does anyone have experience with this kind of 
problem?  

The only real solution I can think of is to add a 2.5mm spacer to the BB's 
drive side.  The chain just ever so slightly touches the tire now, and so 
I'm hoping that moving the chainrings out 2.5mm will be enough to solve the 
problem.  BUT 

A part of me wonders whether this is advisable.  Will my shifting be 
compromised due to altering the chainline of the crank?  Will widening the 
space between the BB's cups harm the BB due to lessening the thread 
engagement?  Will it harm the cranks for the same reason? Is this solution 
more of a problem than the rubbing problem? 

What about other solutions?  Does anyone have any advice?  This is driving 
me crazy, and I'd really love to hear any and all suggestions!

Thank you!

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[RBW] Re: FS Nitto Noodles, 44cm

[David Wadstrup]

I think I might have priced these too high, so a price cut is in order.  

How does $20 plus shipping sound?  



>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS SCHWALBE Tire Hans Dampf 29 x 2,60 ADDIX Soft EVO APEX TLE Classic-Skin | 2020

[David Wadstrup]

Wow!  That was fast.  The tires have sold.  Thanks, everyone.

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 12:18:07 PM UTC-4, Abcyclehank wrote:
>
> DM sent!
>
> Ryan 
> West Michigan
>

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[RBW] WTB Nitto Dirt Drop Stem, 25.4

[David Wadstrup]

Hello,

My Susie is on the way and I'm in need of a stem for my Wavie bars.  I 
think some trial and error may be in order regarding fit, but a hunch tells 
me an 8cm Dirt Drop stem with a 25.4 clamp diameter might be just what I 
need.  Does anyone have one in good condition that they no longer need? 
 Please let me know if so.

Thanks,

David

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[RBW] Re: Susie Tire suggestions?

[David Wadstrup]

Clayton, you remind me of another question I've been looking for an answer 
to.  As mentioned, I'll be going with a Shimano 2x12 drivetrain, and will 
likely use their XT crankset.  I noticed 2 versions are offered -- a 
standard and a "Boost."  Never having heard of Boost before, I looked it up 
and decided it probably wasn't something that I needed for the Susie.  I 
still think that a 2.6 tire is as wide as I want to go regardless 
considering my Cliffhanger's rim width, but is there any other reason 
beyond the chain/tire clearance that would make you recommend I use the 
Boost?  I'm at bit out of my league with the these state of the art 
components.  And if you happen to know, would the XT BB-MT800 be the bottom 
bracket of choice for my set up?
AND... is there a different crankset you'd recommend?

Thanks so much for your help.

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[RBW] Re: Susie Tire suggestions?

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone! I’ll likely stick with the Schwalbes, but 
was glad to hear of a positive experience with the Honchos. 

David, here’s what Grant wrote to me regarding tire size/chainring count 
compatibility


• A 2.8-inch tire in back works best with a single ring up front. B/C in the 
low gear on a double, the chain gets too close to the tire, and on bouncy stuff 
it'll rub and the knobs can catch on it and suck it into the gap btw the tire 
and chainstay. That can be avoided by shifting to ANY OTHER GEAR when you go 
bouncing down a bumpy hill---but sometimes you'll forget to do that, and it'll 
make you feel dumb, which is less than ideal.


Best,

David

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[RBW] Susie Tire suggestions?

[David Wadstrup]

I've got a Susie frameset on the way and am already in possession of a 
beautiful set of Cliffhanger/WI MI5 wheels.  I'm uncertain, though, of 
which tires to choose.  I'd prefer tan sidewalls, if possible, and would 
like a 2.6 width(since I'll be running a 2x drivetrain.)  I've been looking 
at Teravail's offerings, but don't know anyone who's personally used them. 
 Does anyone here have any firsthand knowledge?  I'm looking at either the 
Honcho or the new Kessel.  

This bike will be dedicated to riding trails.  I am not an overly 
aggressive rider, but I do want a performance oriented tire, if you know 
what I mean.  I live in the Northeast and am looking for stability and 
safety while riding sometimes muddy and wet-rooted trails.  I'm a big fan 
of Schwalbe's tires and thought the Hans Dampf would be an appropriate 2nd 
choice(or first choice?) if the Teravails weren't recommended.  But sadly, 
their new "skinwall" versions don't aesthetically appeal to me. What do 
 you think -- Tervail Honcho or Kessel or Schwalbe something or other?

Thanks for your advice!

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[RBW] Re: FS Velo Orange Threadless Stem, 26.00 x 1", 17 degree, 80mm

[David Wadstrup]

Thought I'd reach out again to see whether this could be useful to anyone. 
 If you're interested, please let me know.

On Tuesday, March 10, 2020 at 6:40:34 PM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> This was a stand-in stem I bought for my Roadeo about a year ago, and I no 
> longer have a use for it.  It was used for about 6 or 7 very brief rides 
> and is still in like new condition.
>
>  26.00 x 1", 17 degree, 80mm
>
> Let me know if you have any questions.
>
> Asking for $15 plus $9 shipping.
>
>
> [image: IMG_1519.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1518.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1517.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1513.jpeg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Shifter Bar End Mounts, L and R Pods

[David Wadstrup]

The pods have sold.  Thank you.

On Tuesday, March 10, 2020 at 7:46:58 PM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> I have a used pair of Rivendell's Silver Bar End Pods up for sale.  They 
> are a few years old and are in good condition. 
>
> I will also be including the original Silver shifters with these pods, but 
> in "as is" condition(someone may find them useful and I can't bear to throw 
> them away.)  These have seen quite a bit of use as you can tell from the 
> photos.  The left shifter is in decent, working condition, but the right 
> has been bent and does not work properly.  It can perhaps be fixed, but I 
> make no promises.  I should also note that the plastic pieces could all use 
> replacement as most are broken.  I will be including everything in the 
> photos. Let me know if you have any questions.
>
> ASKING $23 PLUS $8 SHIPPING.
>
>
>
> [image: IMG_1520.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1521.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1522.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1523.jpeg]
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Gus or Susie?/Threadless Weight vs Quill Weight?

[David Wadstrup]

Ouch!  Steve, I’m a long time believer in Rivendell’s design philosophy and 
am the proud owner of 7 of their bikes. I was simply asking for help in 
deciding between two of their frames that are distinguished only by their 
weight -- 12oz or less. But thanks for letting me know my question wasn’t a 
good one.  

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[RBW] Gus or Susie?/Threadless Weight vs Quill Weight?

[David Wadstrup]

Good morning,


I’m seriously considering buying one of Rivendell’s forthcoming Hillibikes 
and am having a difficult time deciding between the Gus and Susie.  Would 
you mind weighing in with your opinion? So far, I’ve got 1 vote for the 
Gus, 2 for the Susie. 


As many of you  might know, the Susie is a lighter weight frame available 
for lighter weight riders.  The earlier promotional writing listed the 
cut-off at 165lbs, though the most recent email advertising the impending 
sale changed this figure to 180lbs.  It’s also stipulated that it’s not the 
bike for camping-weight loads of 25+ lbs.


I weigh 170lbs, and will never load whichever frame I choose with any 
appreciable weight other than myself. I’m the proud owner of a Hunq that 
takes care of any loaded off-road-ish rides, and am interested in keeping 
the Gus/Susie rack and basket free. It’ll be a dedicated, no load trail 
bike.  And I’m not a hard-riding trail rider either — no aggressive 
downhilling or sizable jumps. 


So, given my weight and purpose, which would you suggest?


Oh, also, before you answer…. one question for those of you who might have 
this kind of technical information…. the Gus comes with a threadless stem, 
the Susie with a quill.  It’s been my understanding that a quill stem 
set-up weights a bit more than threadless. Is this correct? The actual stem 
is heavier, of course.  But then the steerer of the threadless set-up will 
be quite a bit longer and heavier vs. the quill. Does any one known what 
the approximate weight difference is between the two? I believe I once 
read(maybe in a Riv Reader?) that the quill set-up weighs about 8oz more. 
For those of you who know, is this close to accurate or even in the 
ballpark?  I ask because the Susie’s lighter tubed weight savings is 12 oz, 
and I’m wondering how much of the this savings will be offset by its 
heavier stem.


Anyways, thanks for listening. Please let me know what you think and help 
stop me from driving myself crazy. 

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[RBW] Re: FS Sugino XD2, double, bash guard, and one 32t ring

[David Wadstrup]

Sorry Reid and Eric, but the crank has sold.  Thanks everyone.

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[RBW] Re: FS Berthoud Aspin/Aravis replacement leather top, black

[David Wadstrup]

The replacement top is sold.  Thank you everyone.

On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 6:42:05 PM UTC-5, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
>
> I decided I'd really rather have a brown vs. black saddle on my orange 
> Quickbeam, so I switched out the leather tops.  The black is still in great 
> shape and rather than have it sit in a parts bin for years to come, I 
> figured I'd pass it along.  It's been lightly ridden and is in pretty great 
> shape with only minor signs of wear.  Just some scuffing of the black.  No 
> stretching or indentations or anything.  Never rained on.  I love Berthoud 
> saddles -- super comfortable, all parts are replaceable.  Anyways, if you 
> have an Aravis or Aspin saddle and need a new top or just would like a back 
> up at a reasonable cost, please PM me.  These go for $135 new, but I'm not 
> really sure what to ask fo this gently used one.  Does $50 sound like too 
> much? 
>
>
>
> [image: IMG_1130.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [image: IMG_1134.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
> [image: IMG_1131.jpeg] 
>
>
> [image: IMG_1132.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
> [image: IMG_1135.jpeg]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Berthoud Aspin/Aravis replacement leather top, black

[David Wadstrup]

I forgot to include shipping, sorry.  $12 CONUS.  Thanks!


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[RBW] Re: FS TRP RRL Drillium brake levers

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks everyone. The levers have sold. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS TRP RRL Drillium brake levers

[David Wadstrup]

Sorry, Brian. Levers sold last night and I haven’t had the chance to
update. Will do now.

On Tue, Sep 17, 2019 at 9:54 AM Brian Campbell 
wrote:

> I will take them/ Thanks!
>
> On Monday, September 16, 2019 at 9:58:50 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>>
>> Small price drop, if anyone is interested.  How about $30 plus the $9
>> shipping?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, September 1, 2019 at 10:46:06 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> A have a few parts that aren't seeing any use, so figured I'd pass them
>>> on.  First item is a set of TRP RRL brake levers of the drillium variety.
>>> They are great, classic-like levers, have seen very little use, and are in
>>> terrific, new-like shape.  Asking $35 plus $9 USPS shipping.  Please let me
>>> know if you have any questions are if you'd like more photos.  Thanks for
>>> looking.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1016.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1015.jpeg]
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1014.jpeg]
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1019.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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[RBW] Re: FS TRP RRL Drillium brake levers

[David Wadstrup]

Small price drop, if anyone is interested.  How about $30 plus the $9 
shipping?



On Sunday, September 1, 2019 at 10:46:06 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
>
> A have a few parts that aren't seeing any use, so figured I'd pass them 
> on.  First item is a set of TRP RRL brake levers of the drillium variety. 
>  They are great, classic-like levers, have seen very little use, and are in 
> terrific, new-like shape.  Asking $35 plus $9 USPS shipping.  Please let me 
> know if you have any questions are if you'd like more photos.  Thanks for 
> looking.
>
>
>
>
> [image: IMG_1016.jpeg]
>
>
>
> [image: IMG_1015.jpeg] 
>
> [image: IMG_1014.jpeg]
>
> [image: IMG_1019.jpeg]
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[David Wadstrup]

That’s very frustrating and sad to hear. I wonder whether this is something 
new-ish. I have 3 of their saddles and haven’t had this experience. But mine 
were all purchased around 2015. May I ask if your experiences were more recent 
than this?  Maybe it’s some sort of new treatment of the leather. I’d, too, be 
interested in hearing what Berthoud customer service had to say about it. 

Thank you for sharing this info! 

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[David Wadstrup]

That’s interesting, James. Would you mind going into greater detail about your 
experiences? What do you mean exactly by them not lasting? Did they fall apart 
or brake or did the leather deteriorate? Just curious. I’m appreciative of your 
warning, and would love to hear more before buying one. 

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo/STI bars

[David Wadstrup]

I haven't really heard of the M151s before, but am very interested.  Looks 
like they don't have the flare in the drops that the Noodles have.  But it 
does look like they extend further back.  Do you find yourself missing this 
flare?

On Tuesday, April 9, 2019 at 9:26:53 AM UTC-4, stoker wrote:
>
> I like Nitto M151’s for STI or Doubletap. They have a shallow drop and 
> reach. They come in silver, 46cm width and a 26.0 clamp

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[RBW] Berthoud Saddles

[David Wadstrup]

I really like Berthoud saddles.  The Mente to me is the best saddle for 
very upright riding positions.  Mainly because I don't have to ride with 
the nose super high like I do with the Brooks.  I also like the Aspin for 
bikes with drop bars.  I've been wondering, though, what the 
Soulor/Galibier is like.  It's a narrower, racier saddle.  Does anyone here 
have any experience with this saddle?  Is it too narrow?  Noticeably less 
comfortable than the Aspin?

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[RBW] Roadeo/STI bars

[David Wadstrup]

I've been planning on using Noodles on the Roadeo I've been building. 
 It'll be my first STI bike and I really like Noodles.  But then I thought 
a different bar might be in order.  I've read through all the posts 
discussing Noodle alternatives, but am wondering which of those 
alternatives might have a leg up on the Noodle when used with STI levers 
and a lower handlebar height.  Maybe something with a shorter drop? Any 
thoughts?  I'm open to 26. or 31.8 or whatever.  There are only two deal 
breakers.  One, it must be available in a width that measures approx. 46cm 
at the hoods.  Two, that it comes in silver.

I'd love whatever advice you could offer.

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[RBW] Re: Swapping Inner Chainrings on VBC Crank

[David Wadstrup]

I’m also interested in what people have to say about this. I’m in the process 
of building up a Roadeo with a VBC crank and have spent way too many hours 
considering gearing.  There are a couple of rides I do that are hilly in the 
extreme and I wanted a set-up that would be suitable. But having a super wide 
range cassette didn’t seem like the ideal solution. So, I figured I’d just swap 
out cassettes when I needed  the really low, low gears. But then it occurred to 
me that swapping out the VBC rings(at least the little one) might be 
preferable.  It’d be the more expensive route, but perhaps the easier, less 
time consuming route? I’d also be able to get more and lower gears this way. 

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[RBW] Re: FS Marathon Supreme(pair) 700x40C(42 x 622)

[David Wadstrup]

Price reduction... any takers at $50(for the pair) plus $14 shipping?  

Thanks.


On Sunday, November 11, 2018 at 6:16:14 PM UTC-5, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> These tires were bought from Riv in 2014 and came on my AHH.  I   can’t be 
> certain of the mileage they saw, but I’d guess it’s less than 500.  About 6 
> months in to the new bike, I traded them out for a narrower pair of 
> Almotions which I’ve been riding ever since.  Whatever their mileage, I can 
> tell you that they have tons of life left in them, and that they are great 
> tires.  They’ve been wrapped up and stored in a heavy duty  ziploc bag in 
> the dark for the past 3 years.  They’re comfortable, light-ish and 
> fast-ish, and offer great puncture protection.  I use a different pair of 
> Supremes on another bike and haven’t flatted once in 4 years of commuting 
> in Brooklyn.  They were/are $80 apiece new.  I’m asking for $60 for both 
> plus $14 shipping.
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Grey Medium Sackville Shopsack

[David Wadstrup]

Bag has sold.  Thanks everyone.

On Sunday, November 11, 2018 at 1:17:32 PM UTC-5, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
>
> I'm reluctant to sell this as they’re no longer available and I might 
> regret it some day, but I have a Grey Medium Sackville Shopsack that I 
> haven’t used in over a year.  I used it pretty lightly for a not too long 
> period of time before buying another in Riv’s new grey grid fabric.  Which 
> is also no longer available, it seems.  An excellent bag for a medium or 
> large sized Wald basket.  Asking $50 plus $10 shipping.
>
>
> Thank you.
>

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Re: [RBW] FS Grey Medium Sackville Shopsack

[David Wadstrup]

It’s yours!  Thank you!  You can PayPal me at dwadst...@gmail.com 
.  Don’t forget to include your shipping address. 

Best,

David

> On Nov 11, 2018, at 3:43 PM, Timothy Hurley  
> wrote:
> 
> I’ll take it if it’s still available. Thanks!
> 
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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks so much for all of your help and suggestions. It’s more than likely I 
will end up going with the WI. I’ll just have to learn to live with the black 
rings. For those of you that have or have used this crank  what can you 
tell me regarding its compatibility with STI? Does it shift nicely? Is there 
anything I should be aware of?

Also, since opening this discussion, I’ve done a bit of research and thinking 
regarding gearing and the front chainrings’ toothcount. I’ve gotten some good 
advice and think I’ll end up with a 48/32(with a 12-34 11sp cassette in back.) 
This is a pretty sizable jump it seems. Doable, but advisable? The 48 will 
likely give me the biggest gear I’ll need, and the 32 will make handling the 
hillier hills much more pleasurable. But do you think I’ll compromise shifting 
with a 16 tooth jump? Would anyone suggest a different 11sp cassette?

Thanks again. 

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

This is all so much to think about thank you everyone.  I'm 
particularly appreciative of the run down on gearing.  You're right, this 
is something the could determine crank choice, and so is something I should 
think about a little more deeply before pulling the trigger.

I really wish I could remember where I read that bit about aluminum 
weakening over age.  I feel like it had to be a RR issue somewhere in the 
mid-20s.  Regardless, sounds like it's not something to fret over.  But it 
also sounds like going vintage would contradict my desire for a 11sp STI 
drivetrain.  Unless, that is, I was to swap out the rings it came with.

I've never heard of the High Sierra cranks.  They look great.  Thanks for 
the link.

Sounds like the WI VBC might be the way to go should I find myself able to 
deal with the black rings.  





On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 6:28:50 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> That indeed would be the theoretical reason; not age. Good point.
>
> Next question: is there any useful and accurate *practical* guidance -- 
> rules of thumb -- for retiring aluminum cranks, seatposts, bars, stems, and 
> so forth?
>
> Bills' reply reminds me of Grant's long-ago and wonderful metaphor: 
> "Dolphin-like thighs" -- in contrast to sylph-like arms.
>
> Patrick Moore, who very strangely didn't think for a minute about the 
> danger of riding his (What? I myself have owned them at least 15 years, and 
> I got them ... 2nd hand? 3d hand? 4th or 5th hand? Pro 5 Vis cranks) during 
> this afternoon's very pleasant fall ride.
>
> On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 1:48 PM Bill Lindsay  > wrote:
>
>> Somebody claimed to have read somewhere that aluminum weakens over time.
>>
>> Patrick Moore asked for more details, and sounds skeptical.
>>
>> I took my materials science classes a fairly long time ago, but you are 
>> right to be skeptical, Patrick Moore.  Aluminum most certainly does NOT 
>> change material properties with just time.  Aluminum does weaken with USE 
>> (repeated cyclical loading).  You do not need to throw away your 20 year 
>> old cranks just because they are old.  You have to throw them away because 
>> you ride an ENORMOUS number of miles and apply MASSIVE torque to them.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:07:57 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> "Also, I read some somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and 
>>> aluminum in particular, weaken significantly with age."
>>>
>>> I'd like to see the article and review the evidence. I myself have heard 
>>> nothing said about age as such making metals generally, or aluminum in 
>>> particular, less strong. Repeated bending, corrosion, yes, but not age 
>>> alone. Anyone?
>>>
>>> Come to think of it, Jan in all his riding of vintage machines from 40s 
>>> and 50s has said nothing about their period cranks being dangerous.
>>>
>>> Patrick Moore, who rides old aluminum cranks (and very old aluminum 
>>> cranks! 8 sp Logic, 5 sp Pro 5 Vis, Viscount/Lambert -- the one with the 
>>> tapered socket) and doesn't want to switch.
>>>
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>>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

I actually forgot all about Sugino! Thanks for the reminder. I don’t think I’d 
use the XD2, but will check out their road cranks later this evening. 

Gearing is something I’m not sure about. I’d love some advice. I have triples 
on other bikes and love them, but want a double for sure on the Roadeo. I won’t 
race, per se, but wouldn’t mind a racy “training” set up. I’m in good shape and 
weigh 165lb. Also something good for serious climbing. Maybe good racing and 
good hill climbing ratios are mutually exclusive? I don’t know enough to say. 
But if they are, I’d lean more towards the good hill climber over a real high 
end sprinter. Does this make sense? What would you recommend up front? And in 
back on the cassette for that matter?

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

Hi Steve. 

I’ve mostly written it off because I feel its aesthetic speaks to a different 
era than the one guiding me in this build. Also, and admittedly I have no real 
knowledge to base this on, I feel like a 5 bolt pattern is preferable to the 3 
bolt pattern that the RH uses.

  

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[RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two cranksets 
currently in production that I’m considering. That I know of, that is. I’d 
love to hear of others if you know of any. 



   1. White Industries VBC.  


This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in black. I 
may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker. 



   1. DaVinci.  


I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that it’s US 
made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like something 
different for the Roadeo, though. 


TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the 
DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass of VO 
cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I thought a nice 
NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure how smart this is. 
First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be the best choice for a 
11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I read some 
somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum in particular, 
weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing the vintage crank I’d buy would 
be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve seen a couple for sale in the $400 
range, but am nervous about investing so much in a set that might not be as 
robust as I’d want it. Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t? 


Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in advance 
for all of your advice. 

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my new Roadeo. Part I, Wheels.

[David Wadstrup]

Thanks for all the feedback!  There's a lot to think about here.  I should 
have mentioned that I already have the tires I'll be riding -- Vittoria G+ 
Corsa Competition, 700c x 28.  I  really like them.

Looks like no one has anything to say about the Phil hubs, which might be 
saying a lot.  I think I'll go with the T11s.

I'm still undecided on the Quill vs H Plus Son rims as I got good feedback 
on both.  Think I'll have to toss a coin on this one.

I really appreciate everyone taking the time to help with this decision. 
 Thank you.



On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 8:29:55 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
>
> I’m the proud owner of a beautiful, new-to-me Roadeo frameset that I 
> recently purchased here from another group member.  My plan is to take my 
> time building it up over the course of winter, with a May 1st goal of 
> getting it out on the road.  As I am also the proud owner of a few other 
> bikes(some Rivendells) I have a pretty specific, narrowly focused idea in 
> mind regarding the Roadeo.  Essentially, I’d like it to be pared down 
> accessory-wise, light and fast, with an 11 speed Shimano drivetrain and STI 
> shifters.  Unlike my other bikes, I’d like this one to be a sort of one 
> trick pony — light, fast and agile.  I’ll never mount racks or bags or even 
> fenders on this bike(I have this covered with my other bikes.) For the most 
> part, it’ll be a fair weather bike.  I may occasionally commute on it, but 
> I won’t ever have the need for it to carry anything or to protect me or 
> itself from foul weather.  
>
>
> My I I ask for your help?  I’ve spent quite a bit of time researching 
> component choices, but could use some real world, Riv based advice.  For 
> the sake of ease, I thought it best that I divide this into a few different 
> threads.  Today’s is wheels.  I’ll follow it up with brakes and bars and 
> cranks, etc.
>
>
> Here's what I've been thinking so far
>
>
> I’ll be running 700c x 28 clinchers and will not ever have the need or 
> desire to run anything larger than, say, 700c x 32. I’d like polished 
> silver rims with polished silver hubs both with an aesthetic appropriate 
> for this vintage/modern looking frame. I’ve narrowed my rim and hub choices 
> down to 2, but am open to other suggestions should they meet my criteria. 
>
>
>
> Rims:
>
>
> Velocity Quill. I really like Velocity rims, but have no experience with 
> the Quills. They come in polished silver and seem to be Velocity’s best 
> choice for a fast, light wheel build. I know a lot of people ride the A23s, 
> but for some reason I’m just not interested in them. 
>
>
> H Son Plus TB14. I’ve only just learned about these, but people on the 
> internet seem to be very happy with them. They have the look I’m after and 
> also seem to be a good choice for a light-ish fast wheelset.  I think 
> I'm leaning toward these just to try out a different maker's rims, but am 
> really torn and am hoping for a nudge in one direction of the other. 
>
>
>
>
> Hubs:
>
>
> White Industries T11, front and back. I have a rear MI5 on my AHH and 
> really like it. They’re made here in the US which I like and they aren’t 
> too noisy. I was pretty much settled on the T11s for this build, but then 
> learned about
>
>
> Phil’s road hubs. I also have a Phil rear touring hub which I also really 
> like. In fact, it’s my favorite hub as it spins silently. But the Phil road 
> hubs are significantly heavier than the T11s. They are also more costly and 
> being different than their touring hub may sound differently. I’m not super 
> concerned with weight, but if all else is equal(including durability,) 
> weight could be a deciding factor. 
>
>
> What do you all think? Does anyone have experience with these rims/hubs? 
> Is there something else you'd suggest.  I've heard HED makes good rims that 
> would be Roadeo appropriate, but they seem to only come in black with 
> pretty pronounced graphics.  I like the bling of polished silver, but not 
> bling-y logos.  What would you choose in my place?  I should mention I’m a 
> 165lb rider, and I’d likely choose 32 spokes, front and back. Unless, of 
> course, someone feels like I could get away with 28 up front. 
>
>
> I’d love to hear any advice you’re willing to offer. Thank you for your 
> help. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Help me build my new Roadeo. Part I, Wheels.

[David Wadstrup]

Hello,


I’m the proud owner of a beautiful, new-to-me Roadeo frameset that I 
recently purchased here from another group member.  My plan is to take my 
time building it up over the course of winter, with a May 1st goal of 
getting it out on the road.  As I am also the proud owner of a few other 
bikes(some Rivendells) I have a pretty specific, narrowly focused idea in 
mind regarding the Roadeo.  Essentially, I’d like it to be pared down 
accessory-wise, light and fast, with an 11 speed Shimano drivetrain and STI 
shifters.  Unlike my other bikes, I’d like this one to be a sort of one 
trick pony — light, fast and agile.  I’ll never mount racks or bags or even 
fenders on this bike(I have this covered with my other bikes.) For the most 
part, it’ll be a fair weather bike.  I may occasionally commute on it, but 
I won’t ever have the need for it to carry anything or to protect me or 
itself from foul weather.  


My I I ask for your help?  I’ve spent quite a bit of time researching 
component choices, but could use some real world, Riv based advice.  For 
the sake of ease, I thought it best that I divide this into a few different 
threads.  Today’s is wheels.  I’ll follow it up with brakes and bars and 
cranks, etc.


Here's what I've been thinking so far


I’ll be running 700c x 28 clinchers and will not ever have the need or 
desire to run anything larger than, say, 700c x 32. I’d like polished 
silver rims with polished silver hubs both with an aesthetic appropriate 
for this vintage/modern looking frame. I’ve narrowed my rim and hub choices 
down to 2, but am open to other suggestions should they meet my criteria. 



Rims:


Velocity Quill. I really like Velocity rims, but have no experience with 
the Quills. They come in polished silver and seem to be Velocity’s best 
choice for a fast, light wheel build. I know a lot of people ride the A23s, 
but for some reason I’m just not interested in them. 


H Son Plus TB14. I’ve only just learned about these, but people on the 
internet seem to be very happy with them. They have the look I’m after and 
also seem to be a good choice for a light-ish fast wheelset.  I think 
I'm leaning toward these just to try out a different maker's rims, but am 
really torn and am hoping for a nudge in one direction of the other. 




Hubs:


White Industries T11, front and back. I have a rear MI5 on my AHH and 
really like it. They’re made here in the US which I like and they aren’t 
too noisy. I was pretty much settled on the T11s for this build, but then 
learned about


Phil’s road hubs. I also have a Phil rear touring hub which I also really 
like. In fact, it’s my favorite hub as it spins silently. But the Phil road 
hubs are significantly heavier than the T11s. They are also more costly and 
being different than their touring hub may sound differently. I’m not super 
concerned with weight, but if all else is equal(including durability,) 
weight could be a deciding factor. 


What do you all think? Does anyone have experience with these rims/hubs? Is 
there something else you'd suggest.  I've heard HED makes good rims that 
would be Roadeo appropriate, but they seem to only come in black with 
pretty pronounced graphics.  I like the bling of polished silver, but not 
bling-y logos.  What would you choose in my place?  I should mention I’m a 
165lb rider, and I’d likely choose 32 spokes, front and back. Unless, of 
course, someone feels like I could get away with 28 up front. 


I’d love to hear any advice you’re willing to offer. Thank you for your 
help. 


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[RBW] FS Nitto Tallux Stem, 25.4, 13cm

[David Wadstrup]

Stem has sold. Thank you. 

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[RBW] Re: FS Berthoud 700x40 stainless fenders w/extras

[David Wadstrup]

The fenders have sold.  Thank you, everyone.



On Saturday, September 29, 2018 at 4:05:32 PM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
>
> I purchased these fenders a couple of months ago along with some assorted 
> and necessary accessories. Specifically, the Berthoud rear caliper mount 
> required to attach the rear fender to the bike’s rear brake bridge, 4 
> leather washers from Walnut Studios, and Portland Design Works’ Safety Tabs 
> which allows the front fender to “break away” should something get jammed 
> between the fender and tire. 
>
>
> I discovered immediately upon installing the front fender that these would 
> not work with my bike. The tires are too big to fit(I’m pushing the limits 
> of my Ram’s tire capacity even w/o the fenders.). I immediately removed the 
> fender, packaged everything back up, and am now offering it all up for 
> sale.  They were never ridden and the rear fender was never even installed. 
>
>
> One very important note: 
>
>
> A step in installing these fenders(I’ve installed 4 sets so far, each 
> mounted to Rivendells) requires trimming the daruma bolt. I did so 
> approximately 3/16”. This is the least I’ve ever had to trim from this 
> bolt, and have probably done you the favor of doing pre-trimming it. BUT 
> EVERY BIKE IS DIFFERENT. You might very well have to trim more from the 
> bolt. Or it could be perfect as is. Or, the bolt could have been trimmed 
> too much. I think this is HIGHLY unlikely, but there is a risk you should 
> be aware of. 
>
>
> Anyways, these are BEAUTIFUL fenders! My personal favorite. Properly 
> installed, they are quiet and solid. The leather washers help with this and 
> give them a very classic look. And the Safety Tabs are a bonus that work 
> similarly to SKS plastic fenders. 
>
>
> Let me know if you have any questions.  Asking $60 shipped CONUS. 

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[RBW] Re: Recommend 700 x 28c tire, please.

[David Wadstrup]

I recently bought a pair of the 700x28c Vittoria Corsa G+ for my new Roadeo. I 
haven’t built up the new Roadeo yet, but have been riding the tires on my Ram. 
They look and feel great. I highly recommend them. 

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[RBW] WTB: 12cm Nitto Tallux AND 10cm dirt drop

[David Wadstrup]

Hi Jay,

I have a 13cm Tallux with a 25.4 stem clamp diameter I’m looking to pass along. 
It’s not 12, but close. Let me know if you’re interested. 

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud fender installation questions

[David Wadstrup]

Lum,

I'm not sure Berthouds are going to work in either of these instances. 
 I've installed Berthoud fenders on 4 of my bikes and love them.  I love 
them so much, I coincidentally just purchased a set for my Ram which is 
currently running 700x35 Schwalbe Supremes and P45 SKS fenders.  Long story 
short, I wasn't able to make them work.  For 2 reasons:

1) Front: there isn't enough clearance under the fork crown.  The nut of 
the daruma eats up too much of this precious space(this isn't an issue with 
the SKS as there is no nut here.)  My best guess is that I'd need to drop 
down to a 28 or smaller tire to make the front fender work. And even then 
clearances will likely be pretty tight.

2) Rear: there is too little room between the tire and the bolt head that 
holds the fender onto the bridge between the chainstays.  Unlike up front, 
this is also a pinch point with the SKS fenders which I solved by grinding 
down the cap bolt head about a mm.  I probably could have made the Berthoud 
rear work, but didn't bother seeing as I couldn't make the front work.

Your situation is a bit different than mine and you may have success if you 
continue to run the 650bs.  You'd need the 50mm fenders for those 42 tires, 
though, and I wonder whether they'd fit between the fork blades and/or seat 
and chainstays.  My guess is that they wouldn't.

Dropping down to a 700 x 32 tire as you suggested wouldn't work for the 
same reasons it didn't work for me.

I think the best choice is to stick with the 650b but run skinnier tires. 
 Like maybe 32s.  This way you could use the smaller 40 Berthoud fenders. 
 Technically, this size is too small for a tire that size, but if you're ok 
with less coverage it could work.  I'm running the exact same combo on my 
QB and everything works fine.  I have good clearance above the tire and get 
absolutely no side spray.

Hope this helps.

PS If you're interested, I'm selling the Berthouds I mentioned above.  700 
x 40.  I'd include the rear caliper mount, 4 leather washers, and PDW 
Safety Tabs so the front fender will breakaway in the event of a jam.  I 
began installing these and did trim the daruma bolt about 3/16".  Aside 
from this, nothing else was cut or drilled and they were never even fully 
mounted.  PM me if you or anyone else is interested.



On Saturday, September 8, 2018 at 9:54:06 AM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Thinking of putting Berthouds on the Rambouillet for winter riding. But 
> have a couple questions. Let me know what you think based on your Berthoud 
> experiences, please.:
>
> 1. It is a 650b converted Ram with 42mm tires. Should I use 650b fenders 
> or 700c since this is a 700c bike frame? I like tons of clearance, so if 
> the fenders are too far away from tires, that suits me fine.
>
> 2. How do I pinch these 50mm Berthoud stainless fenders to fit into the 
> chainstays near the chainstay bridge? I know you can cut or mold aluminum 
> fenders to do this, but these Bertys are thick stainless. Can they be made 
> to fit, or are these types un-bendable?
>
> 3. Maybe I should just go back to 700 x 32c for the Ram and a narrower 
> fender would fit better?
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tektro TRP RRL vs. Shimano Tiagra type BRL400 brake levers?

[David Wadstrup]

I’ve used both extensively and far prefer the TRP. So much so, that I ended up 
trading out th Shimano for another set of TRPs. 

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Re: [RBW] WTB 63cm Roadeo/Riv Road Frameset

[David Wadstrup]

I just wanted to update this post with the good news that I've found myself a 
Roadeo.  A list member offered his up as it wasn't seeing a lot of use.  It's 
in immaculate condition, is in the color or my dreams(Ram orange,) and was a 
very fair price.  I'm extremely grateful and am looking forward to building it 
up slowly over the winter.  I'll likely start a new thread with questions and 
solicitations of advice/component recommendations.  Thank you everyone!

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