Re: [RBW] Re: So what's the best degreaser to use these days? (was El Duke...)
H. I must be the oddball using OMS. Eric -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Removing chain guard glue glunk from frame
WD-40. Fast safe removal of adhesive residue is one of its better applications. Don't use GOOF OFF. It's a mix of aggressive solvents (mostly acetone), and it will lift color. One of its intended uses is removal of dried paint. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/45ndGrsjFoYJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Shimano bar end trouble
Good to hear, Stephen, and thanks for responding with your success. I think doing the repair like this helps you understand the mechanism a bit better. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/qzW47FLTLnkJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Shimano bar end trouble
Tim, these are directions I've posted elsewhere to walk people through the same issue you appear to be experiencing. This is from my experience. Note that these instructions assume you have the common top normal type of RD. If low normal, reverse the HIGH LOW in the following. Once you incorrectly install and subsequently attempt to operate the improperly assembled barcon shifter, you've got to get back to point A. Shimano's directions for installation of new barcons even instruct the user to not operate or fiddle with the assembly prior to new installation. Unfortunately, those same instructions don't describe what exactly will happen if you do fiddle with them or the procedure to correct. To restore the lever range and indexing action, you use the lever boss cover as a *key* to wind the lever back to its original position. Merely rotating the lever boss cover to its correct position won't necessarily correct the problem. From recollection, here's how I have done this: 1. Remove or disconnect cable 2. Remove the lever and boss cover from shifter body 3. Install boss cover in correct orientation 4. Put lever in place on stud or axle, but in the LOW position; that is, with the lever nearly parallel to the ground. 5. With either the screw in place or with your thumb finger securely holding the lever against the boss cover, shift the lever to the HIGH position. 6. Repeat this action, if necessary, until the mechanism is restored to its original position. You'll know this when it won't rotate with gentle force. 7. Install the lever in the HIGH position and secure mounting screw. You should now be able to operate the barcon through the full range of indexing detents. 8. Re-install cable and adjust tension as necessary. Hope this helps. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/Wnl-Z_EF-hMJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Shimano bar end trouble
Tim, these are directions I've posted elsewhere to walk people through the same issue you appear to be experiencing. This is from my experience. Note that these instructions assume you have the common top normal type of RD. If low normal, reverse the HIGH LOW in the following. Once you incorrectly install and subsequently attempt to operate the improperly assembled barcon shifter, you've got to get back to point A. Shimano's directions for installation of new barcons even instruct the user to not operate or fiddle with the assembly prior to new installation. Unfortunately, those same instructions don't describe what exactly will happen if you do fiddle with them or the procedure to correct. To restore the lever range and indexing action, you use the lever boss cover as a *key* to wind the lever back to its original position. Merely rotating the lever boss cover to its correct position won't necessarily correct the problem. From recollection, here's how I have done this: 1. Remove or disconnect cable 2. Remove the lever and boss cover from shifter body 3. Install boss cover in correct orientation 4. Put lever in place on stud or axle, but in the LOW position; that is, with the lever nearly parallel to the ground. 5. With either the screw in place or with your thumb finger securely holding the lever against the boss cover, shift the lever to the HIGH position. 6. Repeat this action, if necessary, until the mechanism is restored to its original position. You'll know this when it won't rotate with gentle force. 7. Install the lever in the HIGH position and secure mounting screw. You should now be able to operate the barcon through the full range of indexing detents. 8. Re-install cable and adjust tension as necessary. Hope this helps. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/9_UmDH005GkJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy
SKF warranty is 10yrs/100,000km ...whichever comes first I don't know how they'd determine when the mileage came first, though. On Apr 4, 8:59 am, Ablejack ableja...@gmail.com wrote: I ride a phil bb installed in '99. No problems, but that doesn't mean much as it's anecdotal. If I ever need a new on I would get an SKF. *SKF* (they are the bearing company of the world) guarantees the BB for 10,000 miles. Much longer than anyone else. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Rebuilt Rambouillet: perfect for a Fall ride
That does indeed look like a build done right. Two questions: 1. How do you like the Kojaks? Have you enough miles on them to give a comparison to other (similarly sized) tires you've used? 2. Have you considered pulling the rack closer to the headtube? Trimming the two struts should allow you to pull the rack back an inch or more. Not a criticism, though. On Oct 23, 3:34 pm, reynoldslugs be...@perrylaw.net wrote: Finally got the build right: Ritchey Logic Triple Mavic Open Pro's on Ultegra hubs, Schwalbe 32mm Kojaks Nitto Noodle 48's Nitto Technomic Deluxe Selle Anatomica Shimano XT Rear Derailleur Shimano Barcons Nitto Seatpost The Vee-twin with custom burgundy paint had me envious for a bit, but I passed 'em on the downhill http://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/sets/72157627837620505/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Rebuilt Rambouillet: perfect for a Fall ride
On Oct 30, 3:02 pm, reynoldslugs be...@perrylaw.net wrote: Kojaks are wonderful. I have a couple thousand miles on them, on various bikes including a Vanilla and a Roadeo. I am fairly enthralled by them. Comfotable, good adhesion, excellent for long rides on crappy pavement (Levi's Gran Fond, Hell's Gate 100). Thanks. I'll put them at the top of my list. You know, that's a great idea. I'm not good about the esthetics - - my fender lines, brake cables, handlebar taping are usually pretty sketchy. I wouldn't have even thought to pull the rack in closer, but as you mention it, sounds like a smart thing to do. Oops.. I was thinking you had rack braze-ons. Since you're using p- clamps, you could just loosen the p-clamps and the acorn nuts, push the rack to the rear tolerance of the adjustment slot, then secure the p-clamps and acorns again. Trimming the struts is still an option if you don't want the clamps lower on the fork. Not good with aesthetics? Who can buy that statement after seeing that gorgeous rig?! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Cross levers on 46cm Noodle bars?
Yes, they are cheaper. And they will slow your bike. If pennies are to be pinched, this is a fine place. But I still find the differences between the two to be none too subtle. On Jul 1, 2:33 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: I have 46cm Noodles with Tektro interrupter levers on my Alex Moulton AM. Photos here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157624929495699/show/ I also have a couple of bikes with Paul cross levers, which I like a lot. I wouldn't call the Tektros dismal at all. They feel different than the Paul levers, but they work just fine. And they're very cost effective. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Latest AHH Build
That's one very nicely spec'd bike. No compromises on that rig! I have two questions regarding your setup. First, does your tire cast a shadow due to the light be mounted on the fork blade? If so, is the right edge of the road still sufficiently lit? Also, did you face the BB shell? I've entertained the thought of installing a different crank with external cups, but I've been hesitant to mill the paint off the frame. Given the chance that I might reinstall the Phil BB at a later date, I'd have another issue. On Jun 2, 3:05 pm, Michael Glaser mgla...@gmail.com wrote: Hi All, Thought that I'd share the latest version of my AHH. I removed the promenade bars / iBert baby carrier, and have it set up for my once-a- week commute from San Francisco to Palo Alto: http://www.flickr.com/photos/47173014@N03/ If you're interested in the details: Frame/Fork - AHH 57 (Waterford) Headset - Chris King 2Nut Crankset - Shimano FC-R700 non-series 50/34 compact Bottom Bracket - Chris King Pedals - Shimano A530 Chain - SRAM PC-99R 10 speed Front Derailleur - Shimano non-series compact Rear Derailleur - DA long cage Casette - Ultegra 10 speed 12-27 Brake Levers - Shimano R600 Brakes - Paul Racer Shifters - DA downtube shifters Stem - Nitto Dynamic Handlebars - Nitto Dream Tape - Grey Newbaum's, twine, and 3 coats of clear shellac Seatpost - Nitto Crystal Fellow Saddle - Brooks Swift Bottle Cages - King stainess Rear Hub - Chris King Front Hub - SONdelux Rims - Mavic Open Pro (32h) Tires – Challenge Parigi-Roubaix Racks - Tubus Luna rear / Nitto F15 front Bag – Sackville Barsack Kickstand – Pletscher single Front Light - Schmidt Edelux Rear Light – BM Toplight Line Plus Wheel Skewers - Pitlock -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Fizik Handle Bar Wrap and New Lighting Set-up
Jim, Can you tell me about the mount for your Lumotec? I haven't ordered my dynamo light yet, but I wish to decide on how to mount before doing so. I'm leaning toward using a Nitto rack bolt to secure a bracket to the rack strut as you have done. However, I don't know of a source for such a bracket. Did you fabricate yours, or am I missing a source? Also, your bar wrap looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing the photos. Eric -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: matching saddle and handlebar tape
The usual advice for a *near* match with a honey Brooks is to treat tan cork or yellow cloth with amber shellac. Actually, white cloth treated with amber shellac will give the same result as will yellow cloth. If your honey Brooks has a lot of miles on it and has darkened substantially, then any of these choices won't be a close match. In that case, going with a darker tape (like the orange cloth shown by Lee, or possibly brown cloth) will keep the end result darker, whether that's good or not. Some experimentation and open-mindedness might be in order. How you apply the shellac plays a big role in the desired result. I dilute the shellac with denatured alcohol, starting with a heavily diluted mixture for the first two coats and then progress to weaker dilutions. Thinned shellac initially penetrates the tape well and applies easily without drips and sags. I like to retain a bit of the texture of the tape, and I find that numerous, thinned coats make it easier to control that. I use six to seven coats total, resulting in a thin, durable finish that dries faster between coats. Aggressive *brushing* when you apply the shellac will result in more bubbles in the final finish and more splatters on you and your bike. If that bothers you, just use the brush to gently control the flow of the shellac onto the tape. Before your final coat (and once the previous coat has dried), knock off any little bubbles with fine sandpaper and follow with a quick wiping of denatured alcohol on a rag. You're now ready for the final coat. http://www.flickr.com/photos/35134...@n05/3297247547/in/photostream/ The above is an example of amber-shellacked white cloth with a honey Brooks. Both the tape and saddle were new when this was taken. Over time and mileage, the wrap has mellowed nicely, and the saddle has gained the darker tones and patina as you'd expect. Since the wrap will never darken like the saddle, the latter will one day become much darker in comparison. Finally, I understand some people actually like the resin look obtained by multiple, heavy applications of undiluted shellac. If that's your objective, realize that it won't have the same durability and will be prone to chipping or cracking, especially if applied over padded tape. I've been told that the additives in premixed, canned shellac reduce its flexibility; mixing your own solution with flaked shellac supposedly preserves flexibility. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: AHH on order
Phil hubs - are they worth it? Well, they're not for everyone. Shimano makes a nice hub, and a set of XT hubs can be had for well under the cost of a Phil front hub. An overhaul requires only a few dollars in bearings and grease. Since they're designed with the off- road rider in mind, they feature better seals than Shimano road hubs, and I believe current XT freehubs have 10-degree engagement (a gratuitous selling point for the non-offroader, perhaps). Shimano also has a solid reputation for offering very good quality for reasonable prices. But, those XT bearing seals won't stop everything. When water is able to deliver contaminants to the hub bearings, an overhaul is necessary. Even when you don't ride in harsh conditions, Shimano hubs need regular cleaning and regreasing. Either you need to pay a local mechanic to do this for you, or you need to take on the task. It's not terribly difficult, but it's more involved than some people want to get, and you've got to get the adjustment right to avoid damaging the hubs. Phil hubs are quite different, and the difference is more than the finish. Cartridge bearings aren't intended to be serviced, though you'll sometimes hear of folks pulling the seals away to add grease to the bearings. Don't know how well that works out. You run the bearings until they need replacement with new cartridges, available from Phil, your LBS or a bearing supply house. I haven't replaced my bearings yet, but the process is well described by Phil for user serviceability. The axles are robust, to say the least. Phil is known for superb customer service and standing behind their product. With bearing replacement and the less frequent freehub replacement, you could ride these to the end of your riding days. But the biggest reason I think a Phil hub would be worth your consideration is the option of building a 40-spoke rear wheel. At 250- lbs with the intention of some unpaved riding, this would be reassuring. I don't see 40-hole hubs or rims offered on RBW's site, but they could possibly get them for a build for you. Talk to Rich, Peter White and others to get their impressions. If they convince you a strong 36-spoke wheel can handle your needs, then you have various options for hubs. But if a 40-spoke is preferable, then you're probably only looking at Phil or White Industries as options. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
