[RBW] Re: California bicycle tour - Christmas time

[Hunter Ellis]

I did this ride in October 2016. It was great. Like other people have 
suggested, I'd recommend a few detours. If you have the time and the 
inclination for a lot more climbing than "necessary", there are a lot of 
good side routes to pick and choose from.

You could start by picking and choosing segments from this route:
https://bikepacking.com/routes/sf-peninsula-traverse/

Pescadero has a great bed and breakfast option. Otherwise its a little too 
long from SF to santa cruz and a little too short from SF to half moon bay 
(for my taste), if you're staying by the coast. Riding the Butano Fire road 
up to hwy 9 and descending into Santa Cruz that was is another good option 
to disrupt the monotony (but beautiful monotony!) of the coast.

I regret not taking the "outside loop" through monterrey, hugging the coast 
instead of climbing a busy highway pass.

Big Sur was AWESOME, even if there were lots of cars. Henry Miller Library 
is a cool spot. lots of camping opportunities. You could also get 
adventurous here and go up the ridge to the coast road. I've never done 
that but I've ssen some good pics!

Cambria to SLO is kinda Meh. Definitely take the detours that avoid the 
highway. Los Osos Valley Road.

>From Santa Maria I went inland on Foxen Canyon road, which was great 
(except it was like 100 degrees!). I stayed in Solvang, and then went up 
154 over the San Marcos Pass. Near the top, there's an "old San Marcos Rd" 
(or something) that cuts off and was a SUPER fun descent into Santa 
Barbara. Now that I"m a more adventerous cyclist, I'd look at the Refugio 
and Camino del Cielo way up the pass. If you're just going from Solvang to 
Santa Barbara and its not 100 degrees, that could be realy cool.

I'd  agree with DRW and skip the Santa Barbara to LA section and just hop 
on a train. (I'd also stop at SLO if you wanted to hug the coast--it was 
only interesting after that because I started to deviate.

Camping: 
Sunset Beach south of Santa Cruz was nice and had showers. 
Samuel P Taylor (before SF) is great and has showers.
the San Simeon Campground was not so great, I'd avoid that if you can.
I snuck into Pfeiffer Burns when the whole area was closed for fires. I had 
the whole place to myself and it was amazing, but usually its quite 
crowded. Maybe not in December though. The indoor lodging options in Big 
Sur are usually quite expensive. Limekiln is another camping option but its 
pretty exposed.
If you do ride past Santa Barbara, the Point Mugu campground is great. But 
there's not a great stopping option between Solvang/Gaviota and Pt 
Mugu--the Oxnard Campground was close d(maybe you could sneak in there 
though). I ended up riding 90 miles that day, the last 20 of which were not 
super fun.


-Hunter

On Thursday, September 12, 2019 at 1:42:31 PM UTC-7, Jim S. wrote:
>
> Thank you to all! This is incredibly helpful.
>
> On Monday, September 9, 2019 at 2:28:21 PM UTC-5, Jim S. wrote:
>>
>> Hi all, 
>>
>> I may have a bit of time off in December, and I was thinking about a San 
>> Francisco to Los Angeles bicycle tour. I know there are many sources of 
>> information regarding this, but I'd value any insights from the group on 
>> the advisability of such a tour at that time of year (weather and daylight 
>> may work against me), and any advice on the route generally. I could camp, 
>> stay in motels, or both.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>>
>> Jim S.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: thoughts on a new wheel

[Hunter Ellis]

Overtightening a spoke usually causes the nipple or spoke to fail, not the 
rim. Seems like a rim failure that, well, maybe is expected after 10 years 
of braking on that surface, or maybe its a flaw, fault of the rim itself. 
The rim should be the last thing to give, not the first

-Hunter

On Wednesday, July 10, 2019 at 12:20:21 PM UTC-7, Paul Richardson wrote:
>
> thanks all for the responses so far.  and shame on me for posting hastily 
> upon arriving at work before actually having a look at the wheel.  because 
> the source of the issue is, well...pretty obvious.  is it possible that 
> this was caused by an under (or un-) skilled mechanic doing a terrible 
> truing job?!?  ayiyi...
>
> [image: IMG-20190710-00921.jpg]
>
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 2:14 PM Hunter Ellis  > wrote:
>
>> In my experience, a well built 32h wheel is just fine for 
>> everything...Mountian Bikes have 32 holes these days.
>>
>> You can get a new XT deore rim brake hub for $42, which should last as 
>> long as anything else.
>>
>> The Velocity Quill is a great road rim if you're running wider tires than 
>> 35's, the A23 if not. Sapim/DT Swiss double butted spokes and brass 
>> nipples. Boom. THe Velo Orange PBP rim worked well for me on tires up to 
>> 35mm wide, and is a much cheaper option (on sale for $43 right now!). But 
>> it doesn't have machined sidewalls, which means its easy for your brakes to 
>> squeal. And I"d trust the Velocities over the VO's to last another 10 years.
>>
>> I probably recommended things on the lighter side than a lot of Riv 
>> folks, but...If you're lean, and don't ride on singletrack with a heavy 
>> load, I'd be surprised if a well-built wheel broke. Most important thing, I 
>> think, is who builds it. So get a trusted bike mechanic to lace it up, and 
>> it should last a while.
>>
>>
>> My posts are usually delayed for a few days, so by the time you see this, 
>> 100 pther people might have better ideas ;-)
>>
>> -Hunter
>> Sebastopol, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 10, 2019 at 6:17:53 AM UTC-7, Paul Richardson wrote:
>>>
>>> howdy folks
>>>
>>> i've been riding the stock wheel that came on my 67 homer back in 2011.  
>>> i haven't been the best about maintenance, to say the least, and what i 
>>> thought was just a bit out of true turned very rapidly into a significant 
>>> wobble.  basically i think i'm due for a new rear wheel and am curious to 
>>> hear if anyone has general thoughts or some pointers toward where to narrow 
>>> down the options and make a solid decision.  currently it's a rich built, 
>>> velocity rimmed, 36-spoke, deore x7 nine-speed.  and like i said it's been 
>>> great since '11.  looking for something similarly reliable.  i'm a pretty 
>>> lean guy but have a large saddle bag that i sometimes weigh down pretty 
>>> well, but no loaded touring or anything so far (and, sadly, nothing planned 
>>> for the near future).
>>>
>>> i get that this is all very personal but with the number of combinations 
>>> of *everything *i get a bit overwhelmed and would love input from folks 
>>> who think more deeply about these things than i.
>>>
>>> thanks a ton!
>>> paul
>>> takoma park, md.
>>>
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[RBW] Re: thoughts on a new wheel

[Hunter Ellis]

In my experience, a well built 32h wheel is just fine for 
everything...Mountian Bikes have 32 holes these days.

You can get a new XT deore rim brake hub for $42, which should last as long 
as anything else.

The Velocity Quill is a great road rim if you're running wider tires than 
35's, the A23 if not. Sapim/DT Swiss double butted spokes and brass 
nipples. Boom. THe Velo Orange PBP rim worked well for me on tires up to 
35mm wide, and is a much cheaper option (on sale for $43 right now!). But 
it doesn't have machined sidewalls, which means its easy for your brakes to 
squeal. And I"d trust the Velocities over the VO's to last another 10 years.

I probably recommended things on the lighter side than a lot of Riv folks, 
but...If you're lean, and don't ride on singletrack with a heavy load, I'd 
be surprised if a well-built wheel broke. Most important thing, I think, is 
who builds it. So get a trusted bike mechanic to lace it up, and it should 
last a while.


My posts are usually delayed for a few days, so by the time you see this, 
100 pther people might have better ideas ;-)

-Hunter
Sebastopol, CA

On Wednesday, July 10, 2019 at 6:17:53 AM UTC-7, Paul Richardson wrote:
>
> howdy folks
>
> i've been riding the stock wheel that came on my 67 homer back in 2011.  i 
> haven't been the best about maintenance, to say the least, and what i 
> thought was just a bit out of true turned very rapidly into a significant 
> wobble.  basically i think i'm due for a new rear wheel and am curious to 
> hear if anyone has general thoughts or some pointers toward where to narrow 
> down the options and make a solid decision.  currently it's a rich built, 
> velocity rimmed, 36-spoke, deore x7 nine-speed.  and like i said it's been 
> great since '11.  looking for something similarly reliable.  i'm a pretty 
> lean guy but have a large saddle bag that i sometimes weigh down pretty 
> well, but no loaded touring or anything so far (and, sadly, nothing planned 
> for the near future).
>
> i get that this is all very personal but with the number of combinations 
> of *everything *i get a bit overwhelmed and would love input from folks 
> who think more deeply about these things than i.
>
> thanks a ton!
> paul
> takoma park, md.
>

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for 650b tires in 42 to 45mm range?

[Hunter Ellis]

Gravelkings are $50 and Analog has nothing but good things to say...just 
ordered some because I kept blowing through my Compass tires.

-H

On Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 5:12:09 PM UTC-7, MannyAcosta wrote:
>
> hommage are really good. I like mine so far with my roadini.
> good for bay area road riding to dirt trails.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 12:55:05 PM UTC-7, Ash wrote:
>>
>> All, THANK YOU for your suggestions!
>>
>> Most of the time my use is roughly 60% tarmac and 40% gravel.  Hence more 
>> inclined toward T-Serve, Pasela, Fatty Rumpkin and Homage.
>>
>> If you happen to have the above tires mounted, would you mind measuring 
>> the width for me?  Please... I already have a pile of tires that I'm not 
>> using for one reason or the other.  Wanted make sure it will fit before 
>> getting the new pair :)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, 25 June 2019 08:03:06 UTC-7, velomann wrote:
>>>
>>> I find the Panaracer T-serve in 650bx42 to be a nice balance between 
>>> durability and comfort. Not as supple as Rene Herse/Compass tired but way 
>>> less stiff than, say, Schwalbe Marathon and the like.  And pretty 
>>> affordable.
>>> Mike
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Hunqapillar

[Hunter Ellis]

I have the whole shebang (nitto mini, hub area no hoops, sackville bags, 
basket, and custom basket bag) for sale over on the ibob group. with 
Rivendell's CONSERVATIVE weight rating you could put 18.5 lbs on your front 
end with that.

On Wednesday, October 11, 2017 at 2:29:43 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>
> Not sure how much weight will go in the panniers; I've never done the 
> loaded touring thing before, but would imagine that I'd need more than 
> seven pounds' capacity down there.  As for tires, the largest ones I run on 
> my Hunq are 50mm Marathons, so width shouldn't be a problem.
> Thanks, all, for the advice.  I'll try the Big Front rack.
> All the beset,
> Kevin Lindsey
>
> On Tuesday, October 10, 2017 at 2:46:53 PM UTC-4, John wrote:
>>
>> Ask yourself how much you plan to put in your panniers? Riv says the load 
>> for the Big Front Rack is 30 lbs, and the Hub Area Rack is 7 lbs per 
>> pannier. Another question is how rough are the roads you plan to travel?
>>  
>> And you are limited to tires no larger than 52mm with the Big Front Rack, 
>> something I found out when I tried to fit the rack over 55mm Big Bens. 
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 10, 2017 at 8:14:38 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>>>
>>> Greetings.
>>> I need a front rack suitable for loaded touring (i.e. for panniers) 
>>> that'll fit on my 54cm 700c Hunq.  I was assuming that the Nitto Big Front 
>>> Rack would be the way to go, but then I read a comment on the page 
>>> for Nitto's Mark's Hub Area rack that "Yes, this rack will work for newer 
>>> 700c Hunqapillars."  Is there an issue with Hunqs and Nitto front racks?  
>>> What are others using?
>>> Many thanks,
>>> Kevin Lindsey
>>>
>>

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[RBW] X post 650b. FS: Stan's Grail 650 Prototype

[Hunter Ellis]

Hi All. Sorry for the cross post from 650b (and iBob in passing...)

I have a pair of brand new Stan's ZTR Grail  rims in 650b 32h...yes they 
really are 650b, and no you can't find info on that :-) They were made 
special for Bruce Gordon and I got them a couple months ago for an upcoming 
build (have decided against using them...for now). They're ridiculously 
light and take 38's - 42's no problem (I wanted a little wider so I got 
some wider rims)

$110 shipped to list members. Pics on request or Craigstlist ad 
here 
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/brand-new-pair-stans-notubes/6346484509.html

-Hunter Ellis

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee front panniers

[Hunter Ellis]

I've used the cheap Banjo Brothers' canvas panniers on an old Blackburn 
FL-1 with moderate success (in a similar SoCal riding, scenario) but I'm 
following this post hoping to get some suggestions

The Swift Jr Rangers look amazing but they're pretty expensive for my 
budget.



On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 8:53:52 AM UTC-7, Will Ashe wrote:
>
> Hello fellow listers, 
>
> I recently purchased and installed a 700c front Campee on my Sam, and am 
> wondering what panniers y'all use on your Campee racks. I'll be riding 
> mostly fire roads and pavement here in SoCal. I'll be using these for S240s 
> or weekend camping trips, and would prefer to keep the bags on the smaller 
> side. 
>
> What successes and failures have you had with different panniers and 
> mounting systems? 
>
> Will Ashe
>

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[RBW] Re: Click, click, click ... aaargh

[Hunter Ellis]

Does it click when the wheel is off the frame/in a stand? 

Have you ruled out something silly like a cable/shoelace/zip tie hitting a 
spoke/part of the wheel?

Does the click "ring out," like plucking a string, or is it more 
dead-sounding? Can you describe the click in more detail?

Does it click going forward and backward?


I don't have the answers, but maybe these questions can help narrow it 
down. Also, have you gotten in touch with White Industries? They are good 
people and might be helpful.



On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 2:55:38 PM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> Requesting the help of you wise list members to stop the clicking from the 
> rear wheel of my Sam Hillborne.
>
> The wheel is an Eno hub expertly laced to an A23 rim by Anthony of 
> Longleaf. Still round and true after 2 years of commuting 60-100 miles/week.
>
> The clicking happens once I hit a certain speed but regardless of whether 
> I am sitting or standing (rule out the saddle and seatpost), pedaling or 
> coasting (rule out chain, crank, freewheel).
>
> Sheldon says it must be coming from loose spokes. But the each pair of 
> same side spokes emit the same tone when plucked, and the wheel is 
> otherwise perfect.
>
> I brought it to my LBS who also says the spokes are not to blame, and 
> wants me to replace the hub bearings.
>
> Is this a reasonable guess? The hubs spin beautifully but the clicking is 
> driving me nuts.
>
> What say you wise ones?
>
> Jay in TLV, where it is not at all simple to procure the common in the US 
> sealed bearings specified by WI, so I would like to be fairly sure before 
> ripping my hubs apart
>
>

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[RBW] Re: ISO: Triple front derailer with flat cages

[Hunter Ellis]

In response to Tim Gavin up above, I have had some trouble with a Suntour 
FD (XC sport, not Cyclone) not having enough range to move between the 
inner and outer chainring. Granted, with a different BB and stock 
Chainrings I might have been able to get it to work, but that is something 
to keep in mind. 

On Friday, August 19, 2016 at 8:18:10 AM UTC-7, Hunter Ellis wrote:
>
> Boulder Cycles has a great Deore LX triple for $20. There's a little black 
> on there IIRC but its mostly silver
>
> On Thursday, August 18, 2016 at 4:01:12 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>>
>> You never know , a few years ago I bought 2 great vintage Deore fd from 
>>  a seller on ebay for a song.  While they were not new in box there was no 
>> sign of any use at all.  These were few models later than the original 
>> Deore , all silver and flat inside the cage. I run one on my Bomabil and 
>> the other for another bike. I prefer the flat style every day of the year 
>> too.
>>
>> You may not need a triple though, I use a 105 double with a 24/36/50 on 
>> one bike and it works fine. I think it was a 5500 or maybe 5600 model, from 
>> about '99 or 2000.  You can find such vintage ones and other models from 
>> lower lines that used 8 or 9 speed also on ebay , even some are NOS. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wool Shirts/Jerseys

[Hunter Ellis]

So a mini-review:

 I got a cheap ($35) 100% merino wool TShirt from Amazon from a place 
called WoolX. I was skeptical but it was cheap so I figured I'd take the 
risk. When I opened it, it felt a little scratchy, so I wrote them and 
asked if it would soften up, but that I was afraid to wear it and wash it 
because I might have to return it. Their customer service was great--they 
said I could wear it and wash it and still return it if it wasn't 
comfortable. I've worn it on 5 rides now and washed it once and its gotten 
quite comfortable, though I get a little more "wet sheep" smell than I did 
with an older, different Merino Tshirt.

The fit is good for cycling, but it is different than a standard tee. I 
usually wear a medium (I'm a pretty tall, pretty slim guy), and this one is 
very fitted. Good for biking, but if I was a little wider or if I wanted a 
more casual look I'd get a large. The sleeves are pretty long--almost to 
the elbows--but again, more sun coverage, which is good where I live. 

All in all, an affordable piece of gear that works well and doesn't look 
"bikey", which I like. Now if only it had some pockets in the back ;-)



On Sunday, August 14, 2016 at 11:23:57 AM UTC-7, Sean Kline wrote:
>
> I'm not generally a fan of bicycle-specific looking clothing, but love 
> this vintage-inspired, San Francisco-made all wool jersey by Orqo: 
> http://www.orqo.co/products/jersey. 
>
> Cheers,
> Sean
>
> On Saturday, August 13, 2016 at 7:44:36 AM UTC-7, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>> I've had pretty good luck with a few Smartwool items I bought on sale at 
>> Sierra Trading Post (long sleeve under $50). Get on their email list and 
>> watch for good deals (particularly when they offer a discount and free 
>> shipping).  Otherwise, their prices are pretty average.  I think I also 
>> bought a few from the REI Outlet (now called REI Garage).  I'd buy 
>> Icebreaker too if they went on as deep discount as Smartwool.
>>
>> John
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: ISO: Triple front derailer with flat cages

[Hunter Ellis]

Boulder Cycles has a great Deore LX triple for $20. There's a little black 
on there IIRC but its mostly silver

On Thursday, August 18, 2016 at 4:01:12 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
> You never know , a few years ago I bought 2 great vintage Deore fd from  a 
> seller on ebay for a song.  While they were not new in box there was no 
> sign of any use at all.  These were few models later than the original 
> Deore , all silver and flat inside the cage. I run one on my Bomabil and 
> the other for another bike. I prefer the flat style every day of the year 
> too.
>
> You may not need a triple though, I use a 105 double with a 24/36/50 on 
> one bike and it works fine. I think it was a 5500 or maybe 5600 model, from 
> about '99 or 2000.  You can find such vintage ones and other models from 
> lower lines that used 8 or 9 speed also on ebay , even some are NOS. 
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Blue Newbaum's

[Hunter Ellis]

All right, I'll give it a shot! I love the look and I love the feel of a 
skinny bar. I also suspect I'll have an easier time wrapping it (after 20 
or 30 gel-cork-ish wraps, I still mess it up in different ways each time).

 I'm relatively comfortable on my ride--I notice a little hand fatigue and 
numbness around 40 miles. I was thinking to myself today, even though it 
seems counter-intuitive, maybe pushing my seat BACK could shift some weight 
off my hands/arms into my legs/bootay? For fear of hi-jacking this thread, 
I'll search for the post that discussed hand pain a while back. Not that 
I'm suffering greatly!

On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 12:39:59 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Aye, it's crazy talk. Aye, if 100+ miles is a long ride. As Steve alludes 
> to, if you're relying on your handlebar covering for vibration dampening 
> the source of your problem is elsewhere. Could be too much weight forward 
> or in the wrong angle/position, and a saddle and/or handlebar/stem 
> adjustment is in order (play around with one thing at a time, learn from 
> failure, so it isn't failure. Grin.) Learn to absorb shock with knees and 
> elbows, ride plush tires, and slap a single layer of delicious cotton tape 
> on there! Grin. 
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>
> On Wednesday, August 17, 2016 at 12:10:39 PM UTC-6, Hunter Ellis wrote:
>>
>> I'm interesting in trying cloth, but my intuition says that for long 
>> rides/tours there wouldn't be enough cushion or vibration dampening. Is 
>> that crazy talk? Do people use cloth for long rides? 
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 6:48:31 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>> I agree, Bill, but I already have scraps of several other colors, plus 
>>> I'd like to get some pocket change back to buy...more Newbaum's from Riv! 
>>> Also, SOLD!
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Blue Newbaum's

[Hunter Ellis]

I'm interesting in trying cloth, but my intuition says that for long 
rides/tours there wouldn't be enough cushion or vibration dampening. Is 
that crazy talk? Do people use cloth for long rides? 

On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 6:48:31 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I agree, Bill, but I already have scraps of several other colors, plus I'd 
> like to get some pocket change back to buy...more Newbaum's from Riv! Also, 
> SOLD!

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[RBW] Wool Shirts/Jerseys

[Hunter Ellis]

I'm looking to buy (on list or off) a wool T shirt/Jersey/Other to use in 
conjunction with another wool t shirt that I already have on a 10 day tour. 
Anyone have any favorites? I like the idea of the pockets in a Jersey, but 
they're expensive and I don't like the idea of wearing a "jersey" ;-)

I'm attached to wool because of the odor and temperature regulation 
factors, though I'm open to hearing arguments for other materials. One 
thought was to ALSO bring a lightweight button down cotton dress shirt. I 
have a rather fancy one that can be, nonetheless, great for riding (a Gant 
Rugger "sportshirt")

Hunter "Sheepish" Ellis

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Re: [RBW] Re: AHH For Loaded Touring?

[Hunter Ellis]

Thanks again to all. A few things:

I have a perfectly lovely Bridgestone road bike that I've clamped racks on 
and am touring with shortly. I think I can get a very good deal on the VO 
frame and I already have the parts so that would not be a very significant 
investment, but I do appreciate the sentiment of holding out for the better 
frame.

I also agree more and more than getting the right bike for my daily riding 
is most important, and I fi want to load it up SOMETIMES, then I can do 
that.

As far as the centerpull thing goes, thank you for indulging me. From 
reading (not from experience), I've heard that the stopping power of brazed 
on centerpulls is equal to canti's but with better modulation, making it 
just about the best rim-braking option (except for the clearance issues).

But if I accept that this bike will be a daily rider, overnighter, and 
explorer (it sounds like I ride like Drew), then I'm not so worried. In 
fact, I'm excited!

Sounds like having a different bike dedicated as heavy loaded tourer--for 
the four or five times I go out for longer than a week--is the right 
approach. 

That being said, I appreciate the love for that Atlantis on here, and if I 
can get that damn brazed on centerpull fantasy out of my head, then I would 
totally lean further in that direction :-)

Thanks everyone!

On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 8:13:52 AM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> I have four bicycles right now with centerpull brakes, one of which is 
> brazed on, the rest have a traditional mount through the fork crowns and 
> seat stay bridges. I would be hard-pressed to tell the difference. In fact, 
> the Dia Compes are my favorite brake. Visually, you need to be a 
> cognoscenti to even notice the difference between the two mounting options. 
> I will grant that having the brazed on posts is not an affectation, but it 
> will not change the enjoyment of the bicycle.
>
> My two cents:
>
> Get the AHH, since that is the bike you want. Get it stock, and put some 
> nice centerpulls on it. You can hardly tell if they are brazed or not, so I 
> don't think this will wreak havoc on your "classic road" aesthetic--in 
> fact, the braze-ons are not nearly ubiquitous enough (now or then) to 
> qualify as classic. If at some point down the road, you really really 
> really think your life will be improved by getting the braze on style, go 
> for it.
>
> Buying a bike that is purpose built for 5% of your riding (which may turn 
> out to be an overestimate, if you are like most folks) does not make much 
> sense. At a rider weight of 180, you will be able to tour with the baggage 
> you need.
>
> The VO Campeur is a nice bike, but if you really can't swing for the AHH 
> immediately, why not look for a used bike with centerpulls and wide 
> clearances and put the rest in the piggy bank so you can get the AHH that 
> much sooner--a new bike loses a big chunk of value as soon as it comes off 
> the floor. I picked up this Takara for $100 a few weeks ago--centerpulls 
> and clearance for 40mm tires easy, probably 38 with fenders. Even has 
> Rivish lugs. Here it is still with 27" wheels:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-mewxFisUDJ8/V6dO5AzjZyI/HaY/AsZphgC4Rq0yvLh3Vc66oHqa3md-GtK4wCLcB/s1600/IMG_0680.JPG>
>
> Of course if it were to be used for touring, everything--including water 
> bottle cages--would have to be clamped on.
>
>
> On Saturday, August 6, 2016 at 9:35:58 PM UTC-4, Hunter Ellis wrote:
>>
>> You guys are all the best and very helpful.
>>
>> I realize it sounds a little silly, but yes, the bottom line is, I want a 
>> touring bike with centerpull posts. 
>>
>> I just like them, and I like the idea of them. I ride 28's now, which 
>> seem wide (I know, I know, I'm working my way up), so 38's sound plenty 
>> huge. From my emails with Vince and Rivendell, it sounds like its more 
>> complicated/expensive to REMOVE the canti posts and add centerpull posts. I 
>> don't know why exactly, but that's what he said. His suggestion was to add 
>> the to the AHH because they don't have any posts already. 
>>
>> Honestly, 95% of my riding time will be spent commuting, roaming, 
>> exploring, maybe doing a S48O, and basically carrying 5-15 lbs (in addition 
>> to my 180 lb self). I just want the OPTION to load it up for 2-3 weeks.
>>
>> I might acquire a VO Campeur before I can afford a Riv, in which case I 
>> could save that for dedicated touring and use my Riv as a wannabe 
>> Rando/commuter/country bike. I'd liek to be able to take it on some fire 
>> roads or even smooth singletrack, not cyclocross style or anything, just 
>> exploring-style.
>>
>> I'm also all about touring on "not the right bike,

Re: [RBW] Re: AHH For Loaded Touring?

[Hunter Ellis]

You guys are all the best and very helpful.

I realize it sounds a little silly, but yes, the bottom line is, I want a 
touring bike with centerpull posts. 

I just like them, and I like the idea of them. I ride 28's now, which seem 
wide (I know, I know, I'm working my way up), so 38's sound plenty huge. 
>From my emails with Vince and Rivendell, it sounds like its more 
complicated/expensive to REMOVE the canti posts and add centerpull posts. I 
don't know why exactly, but that's what he said. His suggestion was to add 
the to the AHH because they don't have any posts already. 

Honestly, 95% of my riding time will be spent commuting, roaming, 
exploring, maybe doing a S48O, and basically carrying 5-15 lbs (in addition 
to my 180 lb self). I just want the OPTION to load it up for 2-3 weeks.

I might acquire a VO Campeur before I can afford a Riv, in which case I 
could save that for dedicated touring and use my Riv as a wannabe 
Rando/commuter/country bike. I'd liek to be able to take it on some fire 
roads or even smooth singletrack, not cyclocross style or anything, just 
exploring-style.

I'm also all about touring on "not the right bike," I just don't want to 
break it :-)

The easy thing is just to accept canti brakes, but I just love the idea of 
centerpulls with posts. It fits more with the "classic road" aesthetic that 
I want in this baby.

One option is to just go all in and get a custom rivendell. Another option 
is to get centerpull posts brazed on to a hillborne, but they can't do that 
before they're painted, so it would require a re-paint.

Ah the choices. But a million thanks to everyone on here who has given me 
more to think about. 

To hijack this thread slightly, what exactly are the experienced 
differences between the appaloosa, hunq, and atlantis?


On Saturday, August 6, 2016 at 1:26:54 PM UTC-7, David Hays wrote:
>
> I have a AHH with Dia Comp 750 centerpulls, 650B and Hetres with fenders. 
> I don’t see any limitation in the bike other than what I decide. 
> David 
>
> > On Aug 6, 2016, at 3:50 PM, drew  
> wrote: 
> > 
> > Is it just a touring bike with centerpull posts that is in question? I 
> assume rivendell can put centerpull posts on most of their bikes for a fee. 
> > 
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[RBW] AHH For Loaded Touring?

[Hunter Ellis]

Hey guys--looking at a future dream bike, and since I'm dreaming, I might 
as well dream. 

I want a Rivendell bike that I can use for touring, don't want to pay for a 
full custom job, and I want center-pull braze-ons (I am flexible in 
real-life, but since this is a dream...indulge me)

Riv can affordably add Centerpull mounts to the AHH, but that's it. Great! 
Problem solved. But...Riv says the AHH isn't suitable for "self supported 
long tours." Does anyone know why? I want a bike that I could, someday, 
ride across the country, or put a baby in a seat on the back, or something 
like that. I want to carry 30-40 pounds, not 40-60. I weigh 180. 

Has anyone toured with their AHH, or know what its capable of carrying, or 
know why Riv has relatively stringent limits on its carrying capacity?


Thanks,
Hunter "wants to be a iRBW Owners' Bunch member but is really only an iBob 
member" Ellis

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[RBW] Re: silly question re: cyclometers

[Hunter Ellis]

I find that they're helpful when touring, and I've used a wireless Cateye 
Padrone for the last 400 miles. It has huge numbers and all the good 
features like: time (like the actual time it is in the world), total 
distance, MPH, odometer, and time elapsed. Time elapsed and odometer are 
not really necessary, but the large, easily readable numbers are nice. It 
attached to the stem instead of the handlebars, which I like, and you just 
press on the entire unit to change display/function.

The only trouble I've had is it will sometimes reset itself, deleting your 
current ride time and distance. I think I'm doing something wrong--it 
usually does that if I'm stopped at a stoplight/etc for a long time. But if 
that happens, its a good lesson in the impermanence of things and also the 
fact that, like Deacon says, it doesn't really matter in the end.

But again, its nice when touring, especially in remote areas with no cell 
service, when you're trying to find your way on countryoads and you need to 
know how far you've gone so that you can be looking out for that unmarked 
right turn you're supposed to make...

:-)

On Tuesday, July 26, 2016 at 9:07:14 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I use the simplest one possible. None.
>
> Ask yourself: what do I REALLY need to know as I ride? Does it truly 
> matter to me that I see my speed? My average? Does any of that information 
> help me enjoy the ride? Or does it have me riding to the numbers? Pushing 
> myself instead of "just riding"?
>
> The reality is that if you don't use a computer, you can still track basic 
> info like distance and time (and thus average speed) with a clock and basic 
> map. If you have a smart phone, or watch, you can track those in a general 
> way on the ride.
>
> I find technology is WAY overrated and am far happier riding without the 
> numbers in my face.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, July 26, 2016 at 9:18:51 AM UTC-6, bluebirdonabicycle wrote:
>>
>> Maybe its my age but its a confusing world looking at the many different 
>> cyclometers (or whatever they are called) 
>> Im looking for something wireless, simple that has the basic (important) 
>> features likeHow fast? Distance? Total miles?
>> But well built. 
>> Most I look at seem cluttered with endless features.
>> Any opinions from those who have traveled this road?
>>
>> BBOB
>>
>

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