[RBW] Re: Wooly Warm sweaters: Washing and shrinking
I haven't washed mine yet, but will add that the woolie warm aussie neckie is the only wool item I own that has ever shrunk in the wash (always cold, always air dry). I pretty much only wear wool other than a couple pants and button shirts. This was in a top load washer btw. I will for sure be using a garment bag for the new merino woolie warm sweaters. On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 10:52:25 AM UTC-8 Collin A wrote: > I haven't had issues with long-term shrinking. Mine are usually a bit > tighter after a wash but then after several more uses it goes back to its > normal size/fit. > > Hope this empirical data point helps! > > Collin in Berktown > > On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 7:56:54 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote: > >> I have two of the Rivendell Wooly Warm roll-neck sweaters. One's navy, >> one's olive. I got them both new. I've found that after washing them >> cold/gentle in my washing machine and air drying that they shrink. Has >> anyone else encountered this issue? >> >> In a recent blog Grant wrote "Wash them warm or cool, and let them air >> dry. You may need to do it once a year." I would recommend hand-washing >> them cold, as infrequently as possible. >> >> I've washed my navy sweater cold/gentle three times, air dried, and it >> gets smaller every time. I haven't taken before-and-after measurements but >> I can certainly tell from the fit. The sleeves are shorter, neck is >> tighter, tighter around the torso as well. >> >> They're nice sweaters in great colors but require a bit more care than >> the rest of my wool, which I'm careful with anyway. >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9a108baa-728d-499c-a579-abdaffc186cfn%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: Atlas tubeless?
I remember when Stan's was first coming out/gaining popularity the rep came by the shop and set up a whole bunch of old rims tubeless. These were just any old rims kicking around the back. As mentioned the tape prevents air loss through the spoke drilling. Modern rims and tires have a much better or secure fit out the box, but again, this can be fudged with additional tape to build the "shelf". People have great luck with Gorilla tape as a cheaper alternative. I think it's good to play around with the system to help demystify the workings. Worse case it isn't for you on you need to clean a bit of tape glue. As someone without an air compressor, a helpful trick I use is to seat the majority of the tire on the rim before inflating. You are essentially using a tire lever to pretend to pull the tire out of the rim while using your thumb behind it to prevent it from actually popping off, therefore pulling the bead into the shelf or hook. Say the valve is at 12 o'clock, start at maybe 2 and go clockwise until at least 2/3rds of the tire is seated. The 1/3rd of the tire near the valve will be "loose" and sitting in the channel of the rim while the rest of the tire be fully set in the rim hook. I've had luck setting up tubeless with a hand pump using this method. I'm guessing you aren't using the hunk for bike park riding or aggressive low psi road ride descending. It should be fine for most riding or at least until new rims arrive. Bt I'm giving advice over the internet, so I'll add; maybe or who knows?? On Friday, August 4, 2023 at 9:56:53 PM UTC-7 Jay Lonner wrote: > My Big Bens are nearing end of life and I’m curious about setting up my > Hunq tubeless. But I have Atlas rims, which Velocity says is a no-go. > However if you scroll through the comments on this article, John Watson > from the Radavist says they set up nicely: > > https://theradavist.com/rivendell-hunqapillar-review/ > > So why would I want to do this? Mostly to get experience working with > tubeless setups. My full-squish MTB and gravel/bikepacking rig are > tubeless, and if/when I encounter issues with either of them (esp. if I’m > in a remote locale) I’d like to have some hands-on knowledge with > troubleshooting tubeless systems. I already have an air compressor, so > basically for the cost of some tape and sealant I’d be good to go. > > Anybody have experience with making non-tubeless rims play nicely > tubeless? Tips or tricks to share? Or is it just a bad idea, and should I > resign myself to getting some new wheels built with Cliffhangers? I’d hate > to have the Hunq out of commission that long, but if I timed it to coincide > with out-of-town travel it probably wouldn’t be that big a deal. > > One last question — Cliffhangers are wider than Atlases by about 4.6 mm. > How would that affect fender clearance? My intuition is that wider rims > should result in a flatter tire arc, and potentially make it possible to go > slightly wider if I wanted to. I have 50s now, and would like to be able to > move up to 55s or even 60s. > > Jay Lonner > Bellingham, WA > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/975cd1f9-7d49-4f41-bab7-2ba9f4c0d934n%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: Clem: Fleecer Ridge vs Antelope Hill?
A vote for the Fleecer Ridge tires. Nice, relatively silent on pavement. You can easily do long road rides enjoyably if you knock em up to 30psi. I found the knobs "raising" the carcass of the tire away from debris was beneficial for flats, especially in the city. It takes some decently aggressive off-road riding for me to resent them. They compliment the versatility of a Clem well. They've lasted quite a while too. I'll throw in Vittoria Mezcals as a suggestion if you're riding tips more towards off-road. The graphics and grey sidewall are a shame, but they probably roll the best on pavement for a "knobby" tire. On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 10:00:11 AM UTC-7 Jim Bronson wrote: > Anyone tried either one of these tires on their Clem? I know Rene Herse > tires are a bit high zoot. Any feedback out there? The goal is something > that rolls easily on the street, but, can mix it up in the gravel as well. > > Also open to other suggestions. > > Jim > Austin MSA, TX > > -- > -- > signature goes here > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/fb17b584-7208-45a5-8b6c-2d59194ec513n%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: Your preferred pressure for 60 mm tires for all-round riding?
For what it's worth I usually pump my 55mm Fleecer ridges to 18psi front and maybe 22 rear. Probably bump that to 22 and 26 for very loaded touring. On a daily basis I carry more than most, a chess set and several books? Why not. I probably come in around 175-180 with clothes. My bike probably hovers at a minimum 50 lbs. On a Clem btw. Drop as low as 15 front 20 rear on unloaded MTB. Add more or ride smoother if constantly bottoming out rims I suppose. On Thursday, March 30, 2023 at 10:18:39 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote: > Interesting, so 20 and especially 16 is on the very low side for 60s, and > very supple-wall 60s at that. > > And my teeth and arms were jarred last night out and back to church on > said horse-hooves-pitted moisture-compacted even with the tires at 16. > There are some days when one wishes to have the sand back. But 16 is > noticeably better than 20 and I'll try it at the lower pressure for a while > more. > > Really, the only setup I've ridden that smoothed out washboard was an > early CODA suspension seatpost paired with a Softride stem -- BSNYC > recently made fun of these, but I liked mine better than my 1995 top o' > line Manitou elastomer fork. The CODA/Softride combination felt like > floating above the roughness. I'm sure modern suspension does even better. > > I recall a few years ago riding with my brother on some old steep gravel > logging roads in the Jemez mountains, not in a nature reserve, heavily > washboarded. I was riding my Fargo with 700C x 60 Big Apples at 22 psi or > so. Coming back downhill I'm sure we hit 40 mph despite the washboard, > which was so severe that, very literally, my vision blurred, I had a hard > time drawing breath, and I had a hard time holding on to the hoods. > > > > On Wed, Mar 29, 2023 at 10:45 PM Patrick Moore wrote: > >> I have been religiously pumping my gossamer 70C X 60 Big Ones to 20 psi >> for combined pavement and dirt, thinking that ~20 was necessary to minimize >> wallow on paved corners, but on an extended dirt ride today on usually >> sandy soil that had been extensively compacted by moisture and then chopped >> up by horses and Conservancy District trucks, 20 felt like wood rims on >> railroad ties, so I dropped both tires to ~16. That did mitigate the chop >> (tho' little really makes horse hoof divots and washboard comfortable >> except suspension) and observing carefully during cornering on pavement at >> speed I didn't notice as much wallow as I had feared. Me 170 clothed and >> shod for cool weather, bike and kit and bags and contents adding another 45 >> lb or so. >> >> So I'm curious: Those of you who use 60 mm tires: what pressure or >> pressures, and on what surfaces? And how much do you and kit weigh? >> >> Funny: I'd been riding the lightweight fixie gofast with Naches Passes at >> 39 mm (skinny rims) and 30-35 psi on the same roads and found that they >> were at least slightly smoother on the chop than the BOs at 20. The NPs are >> far less gossamer light per unit vol than the Big Ones. >> >> -- >> >> --- >> Patrick Moore >> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum >> >> > > -- > > --- > Patrick Moore > Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/0ae8ca85-2410-456b-8f76-3cc0fc2ce223n%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: Single-Bolt Stem Spreading Options
Not as fun or creative, but a piece of newbaums, electrical tape or cloth over the flat head should prevent most damage On Thursday, January 26, 2023 at 2:27:37 PM UTC-8 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote: > I've got some towel rack drop bars on the way to me that will be going on > my newly acquired AHH. I was planning on picking up one of the tools nitto > makes specifically for spreading single-bolt stems but Crust was out of > stock. I've installed plenty of bars using the ole flat head method, which > always works, but i usually end up with a scratch or two. Anybody got any > good alternative methods I'm not thinking of? > > Thanks! > -Brian > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b3abbd56-c10d-4bba-adcd-8d5f85735bf8n%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: How to alter a shimano bar pod to fit a microshift 11 speed shifter
Heya! Not the exact same, but I've modded a shimano dura-ace bar end to throw a sram clutch 10speed through its full range. Required an extra 8mm of cable throw if I remember correctly. I filled off the top just as you were thinking. There doesn't appear to be any internal mechanism inhibiting the throw, just the bar pod preventing the lever from moving further. I traced out an outline with sharpie beforehand to get a nice flush curved finish, doesn't even look like a mod. I've since seen people shave them for eagle 12sp. On Saturday, November 7, 2020 at 12:38:03 PM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote: > I've heard of people altering their bar end pods for wider range and I was > curious how one goes about doing that. I've got some microshift 11 speed > bar ends but I want to lose the black pods in exchange for shimano's silver > ones. > > Looks like Roman accomplished it on his Hillborne: "Mark scalloped out a > Shimano barpod to fit a 10-speed MTN Microshift thumbie and it all works > perfectly." > > My gut tells me I need to take a file to the top portion of the pod so the > lever can get a further rotation...something like this:? > [image: Screenshot 2020-11-07 at 11.30.29 AM.png] > > Or maybe I'm lost. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd > appreciate it! I'd also be curious to know if anyone has done this with > their silver2 bar ends and if they'd pull an 11 speed cassette with this > modification. > > Thanks, > Andrew > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/4b021ed1-dfa6-48a8-8d4d-8ea8a9c4e9ben%40googlegroups.com.
