Re: [RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho... stem question

[Michael Monti]

As a huge fan of the old Ritchey force stems, I'm going to say that it is 
very likely that the stems pictured here are designed to accommodate 
cantilever brakes, aka with cable stops.  The clamp diameter being 25.4.  
Also, I have found these stems hold handlebars very well.  The issue with 
these stems is not scratching the bars during install because the steel 
sleeve (the 25.4 part) is a longer length than most single bolt stems 
making it difficult to install anything other than a flat bar.  So, my 
trick for this is to take out the bolt and put it in backwards, starting it 
through the threaded side on the bottom of the sleeve and placing a penny 
in front of the unthreaded side covering it and threading the bolt into the 
penny and with minimal torque the clamp diameter opens up helping to 
prevent any damage to your handlebars during install.  The downside to this 
single bolt stem vs. the faceplater stem is deciding you want to change 
your stem and having to undo one side your beautifully wrapped bars.

On Tuesday, March 12, 2024 at 10:41:39 AM UTC-7 El Sapo wrote:

>
> Are those stems with the cable stops 26mm clamp?
>
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 3:43:41 PM UTC-7 Jordan Rosenblum wrote:
>
>> Not unlike other folks, I found the width of the Ortho's demanded a 
>> longer stem than I use with Bosco and Tosco bars. Another option that I 
>> think sits somewhere between a face-plater and other single bolt stems are 
>> the Ritchey Force made by Nitto stems of the 90's, which you can 
>> occasionally find in even longer lengths. They are steel with a single 
>> bolt—and very pretty. The downside is that they don't have a ton of rise. 
>> As the poster above mentions, I have successfully used a Ritchey 25.4 clamp 
>> diameter stem with the 26.0 Ortho's, which were very secure—though I don't 
>> presume any knowledge of whether this is long-term safe. 
>>
>> I saw this post just as I was prepping a for-sale post of similar stems 
>> on another forum. If Chris or other folks are interested, the following are 
>> up for grabs, I am going to create a new post so that I don't derail the 
>> thread. These include a 120mm 25.4 faceplate stem, Ritchey 25.4 stems in 
>> 150 and 170mm(),  and a Ritchey 135mm, 26.0 (might be what you're 
>> looking for). Regardless, if you don't need a long steering column, I 
>> highly recommend the Ritchey Force stems if you can scrounge up the size 
>> that would work for you.
>>
>> Jordan in Portland, Oregon
>>
>> [image: IMG_6005.jpg]
>> [image: IMG_6011.jpg]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:39:02 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> For what it is worth Ron used 25.4 clamp size stems and claims & claims 
>>> they work great. Got to spread that clamp I guess.
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Mar 11, 2024, at 12:09 PM, El Sapo  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> Wish I would have understood the issues with the 26 mm handlebar clamp 
>>> prior to purchasing the Ortho Bar. No megusta.The pics posted by iamKeith 
>>> don’t show that his hair, beard, and hip vibe are much greater riding the 
>>> bike with ortho bars.
>>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 7:50:27 AM UTC-7 Chris K wrote:
>>>
 Thank you all for the pics and advice! Very helpful.

 I'm putting these bars on a 1985 Trek 870. As Riv says on their 
 cardboard geo charts "don't obsess", but geometrically this old frame is 
 not terribly far off some Riv models, setting aside, of course, bb drop 
 and 
 stack (1985 Trek 870: 21.8" frame, 71º hta, 71.5º sta, 58.0 tt, 48.5 cs, 
 5.0 drop, 52.7 stack, 40.6 reach).

 My current set-up is Choco bars and an 8cm Dirt Drop. The height feels 
 fine, just slightly above saddle height, and the reach isn't bad either 
 but 
 could be ~1" longer. I'm fairly upright but can lean in and grip forward 
 as 
 needed. I just like the idea of more width and more flare.

 Are these details helpful? I'm maybe leaning toward the 135mm 
 Faceplater based on your replies, but that does seem long!
 On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:48:02 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:

> [image: IMG_9267.jpeg]I’ve got these bars lined up for my Appaloosa 
> build. 
> My local bike shop had a NOS Velo Orange Grand Cru stem in 120mm that 
> looks pretty perfect. It’s 26.0, and having no rise should be slightly 
> longer in reality than its length number suggests. I’m hoping that the 
> wider clamp section will help it to grip the bars well too, despite the 
> single bolt. 
>
>
> On Monday 11 March 2024 at 03:33:24 UTC+10:30 Chris K wrote:
>
>> Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem 
>> advice from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame 
>> factors that play into something like this, but curious what people are 
>> generally going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:
>>
>> - Faceplater 110mm
>> - 

Re: [RBW] Re: Romulus death shake

[Michael Monti]

It could also be that the front fork is out of alignment.  If your front 
wheel is sits to more to one side than the other, lets say to the left, and 
you flip it around so the tread is opposite, and the wheel still sits to 
the left it is your fork that needs to be realigned, if your wheel ends up 
too far to the right when you flip it around, the wheel is likely dished 
(trued out of center) and is still not tracking in line with the rear 
wheel) causing a shimmy.  

I have a protovelo that I had crashed, which the fork ended up, and may 
still be slightly out of alignment.   I was having a major shimmy with no 
hands, dangerous i would say!  Once I identified the problem using the 
wheel flipping technique, I found a solution on Sheldon Brown's website, 
which basically says to lay a towel or piece of cardboard on the ground and 
lay bike on top. With the front wheel removed, hold the the side of the 
fork in your hand that you would like to adjust and brace the opposing fork 
blade with a soft rubber surface, such as your shoe. Pull blade of fork in 
the correcting direction, repeat until wheel sits centered, LOL.  Hey, it 
worked for me, albeit taking all the strength I had and a fair amount of 
patience.

I think some LBS also have a fork alignment tool that will accomplish this 
same task if not feeling up to being a brute.

Best of luck,
MIke 
On Wednesday, September 1, 2021 at 7:45:05 AM UTC-7 Jon Richardson wrote:

> Check the front wheel hub for play and check for wheel hop (out of 
> round).  
>
> On Wed, Sep 1, 2021, 10:23 AM Rick Urbanowski  wrote:
>
>> No, no front rack.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 1, 2021, at 10:04 AM, Ted Durant  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 1, 2021 at 9:28:26 AM UTC-4 rickur...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Does anyone else get the frame wobble at high speeds on smooth 
> surfaces with their Romulus? I only get it if I try to go no hands. And 
> even the smallest amount of pressure on one of the grips will stop it. 


>> My Heron road bikes (very similar geometry!) would do a no-hands shimmy 
>> with both a handlebar bag and a saddle bag in use, and only under that 
>> specific circumstance. 
>>
>> Typical shimmy solutions include checking the headset adjustment (which 
>> didn't change anything in my case). 
>>
>> A light touch to the top tube with a knee will also settle the vibrations.
>>
>> Ted Durant
>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>
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[RBW] WTB Bosco moose 58 w/12 degree downslope

[Michael Monti]

I just recently acquired a Susie frame and having thought about handlebar 
choices, and having discovered that a downsloping 58cm bosco bullmoose bar 
was once sold and is out there,  I am inspired to ask ya'll if someone out 
there with this setup is willing to sell this particular cockpit. 

I just joined the group a month or so ago and have been impressed with all 
the fantastic riv rants and fascinated that I can even make this request to 
a group of people that know what Im talking about, thank you!

Mike Monti
Marin, CA

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