[RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
First Flight/Mountain Goat make a threadless bullmoose, which would avoid the situation: http://www.firstflightbikes.com/MGParts.htm I think Rawland was also marketing a threadless bullmoose-esq bar/stem combo (it was two-piece instead of being braised/welded together. On Jan 4, 12:16 pm, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing the fork? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
Thanks for that link, Jeremy. Interesting. I had not heard of that company before. I know about the Rawland bar/stem combo, just not sure I like the look of all the bolts. kind of clutters up things. From: Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Tue, January 4, 2011 1:03:57 PM Subject: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer First Flight/Mountain Goat make a threadless bullmoose, which would avoid the situation: http://www.firstflightbikes.com/MGParts.htm I think Rawland was also marketing a threadless bullmoose-esq bar/stem combo (it was two-piece instead of being braised/welded together. On Jan 4, 12:16 pm, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing the fork? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
Ray That shim is almost certainly not the way to do what you want to do. Remember that with a threadless headset system, the stem clamped onto the outside of the steerer is the only thing holding the headset together. The top cap over the stem allows you to preload the bearings. With a bullmoose you lose the top cap and have no way to replace it, and you lose the means to hold the headset together. Some front brake cable hangers have a pinch bolt, so in theory if you put the headset together with a proper threadless stem, preloaded the bearings with the top cap in place, and locked it together with a cable hanger, then you'd have an adjusted and held together headset. Then you could remove the top cap, remove the stem, and leave the headset held together by the cable hanger. Then you'd drive the starfangled nut down far enough that your shim and bullmoose can be inserted (if and only if the inside diameter of your steerer is exactly 25.4mm all the way down to a sufficient depth). If all that holds together, my fear would be that your headset will soon get knocked loose, since that cable hanger has nowhere near the clamping strength of a stem. Once it's loose, you have no way to re-tighten it without removing the bullmoose and shim, driving a new starfangled nut in there, putting your threadless stem (or sufficiently tall sleeve) and top cap so you can re-pre-load the bearings. Not exactly a roadside adjustment. While that shim might have the right dimensions to make a Nitto bullmoose fit and secure into your steerer, I don't know of a way to retrofit a means to preload threadless headset bearings using only external parts. On Jan 4, 12:16 pm, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing the fork? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
Wow! OK! I don't want that problem. Sounds complicated, as well. Thank you for heading me off at the pass. I appreciate that. Guess I'll look hard at the Goathead or the Rawland set ups -- or scrap the whole idea and mount a Jitensha straight bar. From: William tapebu...@gmail.com To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Tue, January 4, 2011 1:53:43 PM Subject: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer Ray That shim is almost certainly not the way to do what you want to do. Remember that with a threadless headset system, the stem clamped onto the outside of the steerer is the only thing holding the headset together. The top cap over the stem allows you to preload the bearings. With a bullmoose you lose the top cap and have no way to replace it, and you lose the means to hold the headset together. Some front brake cable hangers have a pinch bolt, so in theory if you put the headset together with a proper threadless stem, preloaded the bearings with the top cap in place, and locked it together with a cable hanger, then you'd have an adjusted and held together headset. Then you could remove the top cap, remove the stem, and leave the headset held together by the cable hanger. Then you'd drive the starfangled nut down far enough that your shim and bullmoose can be inserted (if and only if the inside diameter of your steerer is exactly 25.4mm all the way down to a sufficient depth). If all that holds together, my fear would be that your headset will soon get knocked loose, since that cable hanger has nowhere near the clamping strength of a stem. Once it's loose, you have no way to re-tighten it without removing the bullmoose and shim, driving a new starfangled nut in there, putting your threadless stem (or sufficiently tall sleeve) and top cap so you can re-pre-load the bearings. Not exactly a roadside adjustment. While that shim might have the right dimensions to make a Nitto bullmoose fit and secure into your steerer, I don't know of a way to retrofit a means to preload threadless headset bearings using only external parts. On Jan 4, 12:16 pm, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing the fork? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
On 1/4/11, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: Some front brake cable hangers have a pinch bolt, so in theory if you put the headset together with a proper threadless stem, preloaded the bearings with the top cap in place, and locked it together with a When I'd looked into a similar situation (using threaded stem with a 1 threadless fork, in a 9/8 bike, natch) last year, a seatpost binder was suggested as an adequate solution. Apparently enough pre-load can be achieved applying brute arm/tire/floor pressure? There are also threadless spacers which can provide adjustable loading out there, too. 'Ere's a bunch of ideas: http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5t=23615 =- Joe Bunik Walnut Creek, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
The linked part is not going to do the trick--it is designed to step you down from 1 1/8 threaded to 1 threaded. Assuming that you currently have a 1 1/8 threadless fork/headset, this would step you down in size, but leave you without the means to adjust the headset (or secure it to the bike for that matter). Although you could, in theory, thread the fork, change the headset, and then put this reducer in, I'm not sure that it would be worth it. If you have a 1 threadless front end (these weren't around for long), then you could just thread the fork and replace the headset. There are also options involving headset adapters that would allow a 1 fork to fit a 1 1/8 frame, but this still involves buying a lot of stuff and, assuming that your choice is at least partially aesthetic, probably wouldn't look that good. On Jan 4, 3:16 pm, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing the fork? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer
Thank you, Eric. I have pretty much given up on that idea after yours and others' comments. I am now looking at either a Jitensha bar, or the Goathead bar, maybe the Rawland bar. Thank you for the advice. From: Erik efrob...@gmail.com To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Sent: Tue, January 4, 2011 12:56:21 PM Subject: [RBW] Re: How do I adapt Riv Bullmoose Bars to unthreaded steerer The linked part is not going to do the trick--it is designed to step you down from 1 1/8 threaded to 1 threaded. Assuming that you currently have a 1 1/8 threadless fork/headset, this would step you down in size, but leave you without the means to adjust the headset (or secure it to the bike for that matter). Although you could, in theory, thread the fork, change the headset, and then put this reducer in, I'm not sure that it would be worth it. If you have a 1 threadless front end (these weren't around for long), then you could just thread the fork and replace the headset. There are also options involving headset adapters that would allow a 1 fork to fit a 1 1/8 frame, but this still involves buying a lot of stuff and, assuming that your choice is at least partially aesthetic, probably wouldn't look that good. On Jan 4, 3:16 pm, Ray r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote: I am seeking best advice (easiest way) re: using Rivendell Bullmoose bars on a non threaded steerer. My research lands me at the following link. Is this the way, or are there better options, short of replacing the fork? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/alloy-shim-to-fit-normal-222-mm-stem-to-1-... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
