[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread Joe Bernard
Ed, I think you're right. I looked at the pic again and it does appear the 
cable is routed correctly. 

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[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread Ed Carolipio
As others have pointed out, a cable/housing swap should not involve *any* 
adjustments to the derailleur itself. May be too late but I hope you let 
the FD be...

My guess is you don't have enough cable throw to get the FD onto the big 
ring. Some things that could be:

   - Shifter cable housing with internal damage so that it 
   deflects/compresses too much under tension
   - Too much slack while in the small ring
   - Incorrectly re-assembled shifter so shifter doesn't move to longest 
   possible throw position. (I've done that on a Shimano bar end, where I 
   installed the mating washer at a 90 degree offset. I don't know if that's 
   possible on yours though.)
   - Incorrectly mounted shifter cable on front derailleur, reducing the 
   leverage on the FD arm. (Joe B. pointed it out, but for me looking at your 
   photos it seems to be routed correctly. You didn't give the model number on 
   your FD so guessing it's a CX-70 or equivalent. Here's the instructions 
   with a picture showing the cable routing to the FD: 
   https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-5MW0A-002-ENG.pdf.)

Good luck,
Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread sameness
Were this my bike, I would confirm...

- That all the holes in the back of the shifter pod, the housing, and the 
grips are all lined up and in a straight shot
- That the FD cable is all cool at the bottom bracket shell and that 
nothing is keeping it from getting in and out smoothly
- That my FD cable is copacetic from end to end; no offense, but yours 
looks a little frayed and beat at the bolt
- That my FD cable is installed correctly at the derailleur side, i.e. 
going above/over/under all the right points at the bolt
- That I have all new derailleur cable and housing on hand and doing that 
whole run from scratch

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread Joe Bernard
Ok, that sounds like the limit screw is the problem. You seem to be reaching a 
stop at the derailer, then the housing starts bowing out as you keep pulling on 
the shifter. I'd start with backing that limiter way out, them finagle the 
chain onto the big ring and get the derailer set over it. You can slowly screw 
the limiter in from there 'til it bumps up against the derailer, then back off 
a turn again. Make sense? 😬

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[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread SeanMac
Joe -- Thanks for looking at my pics.

The picture that caught your attention, the one with the cable bowing out, 
is showing what happens when I try to shift into the large cog (yeah - its 
not really that big).  When the chain is on the small ring, the housing 
lays flat against the cork.

I will play around with the limit screws a bit more.  That may be part of 
the issue.  What I believe is also happening is that rather than moving the 
derailleur when I move the shifter, the housing is flexing / bowing out as 
shown in the photo.  

What is strange to me is that everything on the other side of the handlebar 
works fine.  The rear derailleur shift well - no problem at all with the 
cable or the cable housing.  

Sean 

On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 3:08:02 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Oh my bad, you already looked at the limit screws. 

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[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread Jeremy Till
First, some basic notes about derailleur adjustments. By "the adjustment 
screws" I assume you mean the two small screws on top of the derailleur. 
Their proper names is the limit screws, and they control how far in either 
direction the derailleur can travel. Once they are set properly they 
shouldn't really need re-adjustment. If the derailleur was working properly 
prior to your cable swap, their positions should work fine after the cable 
swap. Here are the shimano guidelines for setting their position on your 
front derailleur.

https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-5MW0A-002-ENG.pdf

The cable is what pulls the derailleur towards the big ring, so if the 
derailleur isn't moving the chain onto the big ring well the first thing to 
check is if you have enough cable tension. In the low gear position for the 
shifter and derailleur, the cable just be just taught--no slack. With a 
friction shifter like you have, that's the main thing to look for in cable 
adjustment--it doesn't need to be super precise.  

If there is slack in the low gear position, that could account for some of 
the housing issues you are having. If the cable is tight the cable tension 
should hold everything in place. If there is slack then the housing might 
be able to move some in the low gear position then get bowed out once the 
cable tension is applied. 

Here are the steps I would follow to address the issue: 

1. Disconnect the cable from the derailleur, and loosen both limit screws 
by turning counter clockwise a ways.
2. Undo the twine holding the housing to the grip
3. Make sure the housing is seated fully and properly in the shifter (it 
may be the that the groove in the grip needs to be deeper to allow that to 
happen).
4. Set the low limit screw following the Shimano guidelines (step 1 in the 
document)
5. Make sure the shifter is set in the full low gear position
6. Pull the cable tight and secure.
7. Their should be adequate cable tension now to shift into the big 
ring--do so. Be careful not to over-shift, since the high limit screw isn't 
set. 
8. Set the high limit screw following the shimano guildelines (Step 4 in 
the document). 
9. Shift back and forth between the big ring and small ring at least 10 
times. With new cables and housing, the cables will stretch and the housing 
will seat a little bit more over the first few times you use them. 
10. Re-check that there's no slack in the cable in the full low-gear 
position.If there is, undo the cable, pull it tight, and re-secure. 

Only once you are happy with the derailleur function, then I would twine 
the housing in place. Perhaps aside from slightly more friction on the 
cable, the twine shouldn't make any change in the shifter/derailleur 
function.  

On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 8:56:33 AM UTC-7, SeanMac wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm finally getting around to one of my winter bike projects.  I've got a 
> Cheviot with albatross bars and bar-end shifters.  I noticed at the end of 
> last year that there were sharp wire fragments hitting my fingers when i 
> shifted the front lever.  To me, it looked like the derailleur cable had 
> somehow started to fray - perhaps from friction between the shifter and the 
> housing.   It seemed odd, but possible.
>
> In any event, I ordered new cable that I attempted to install earlier this 
> morning.  When taking out the old cable, I noticed that it was not the 
> cable that had frayed.  Rather, what I believed to be frayed cable was 
> actually the inside of the cable housing.  I cut out the bad section of 
> housing, and went about installing the new cable.
>
> When I got everything back together, I noticed even after playing with the 
> adjustment screws I was having a hard time getting the chain to jump up to 
> the large chain-ring. (using Sugino XD2 wide-low double).  After playing 
> around a bit I noticed what may be the problem.  Here is where I need some 
> help.
>
> My cheviot has albatross bars, using Meisha's cork grips.  I noticed that 
> when I was trying to shift into the large chain-ring, that the derailleur 
> cable was flexing near the very end of the cork grip - just before the grip 
> met the shifter.  For those of you who have this set-up, there is a grooved 
> area where the cable and housing is supposed to run.  I'm all set - 
> lined-up perfectly with that.  There is also an area designed for twine; 
> wrapping twine around the cable housing and grip.  I've done that and 
> varnished it up.  What I am finding is that the cable and housing is 
> flexing (bowing-out) in the space between this twined-area and the spot 
> where the grip meets the shifter.  I am thinking that this flexing is at 
> the root of both my shifting difficulty and the fraying of my cable housing.
>
> Do you think I have correctly diagnosed the issue?  If so, any suggestions 
> about how to fix it?  My first thought is that perhaps the housing is a bit 
> too long, and that if I cut the housing so that it is a bit shorter it 
> might

[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread Joe Bernard
Oh my bad, you already looked at the limit screws. 

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[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

2019-03-30 Thread Joe Bernard
Hmm, that doesn't look right. The groove at the end needs to be deeper so your 
housing gets a straight shot into the shifter, it shouldn't be jutting down 
like that. Can you slide the housing through the twine enough to back it away 
from the shifter, spin the shifter sideways and get a screwdriver edge in there 
to dig some cork out?

The other thing I would look at is the limit adjusters on your derailer. You 
really shouldn't be having trouble getting to the big ring which is technically 
the middle one on that crank. 

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