Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-22 Thread Doug Litchfield
I agree with the previous postersTake the front end off and look for
damage and size discrepancies.
This sounds extremely unsafe!

Doug


On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 9:56 AM, CycloFiend wrote:

> on 5/21/11 11:48 PM, Zaelia at caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
> > I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of
> > alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the
> > handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is
> what
> > I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were
> not
> > straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been
> looked
> > at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just
> > had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He
> > fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars
> out
> > of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the
> bolt,
> > really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the
> stem
> > and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where
> > they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though
> I'm
> > finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have
> the
> > handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem.
>
> Let me get this straight:  the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so
> your handlebars stay in place?  And he let you and your bicycle out of the
> shop?
>
> There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized
> wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are
> particularly "safe" failures.
>
> Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going
> on.  The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like
> something which should be ignored.
>
> Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact.
>  The
> bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset
> the
> angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is
> wrong.
>
> - J
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines
>
>
> "I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode
> several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it
> wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew,
> and went in."
> -- Neal Stephenson, "Zodiac"
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-22 Thread CycloFiend
on 5/21/11 11:48 PM, Zaelia at caddic...@gmail.com wrote:
> I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of
> alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the
> handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is what
> I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they were not
> straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that had been looked
> at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically said that you just
> had to look at the handlebars sideways and they went out of alignment. He
> fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and then tried to move the bars out
> of alignment with his hands. It was easy to do. He then tightened the bolt,
> really wrenching on it and the bars still moved. He speculated that the stem
> and steering column were not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where
> they needed to bind (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm
> finding it hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the
> handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem.

Let me get this straight:  the mechanic was not able to torque your stem so
your handlebars stay in place?  And he let you and your bicycle out of the
shop? 

There's a few ways this can happen - bulging, ovalization, improperly sized
wedge/expander, failing bolt, splitting fork steerer - none of which are
particularly "safe" failures.

Someone needs to pull the stem, drop the fork and figure out what is going
on.  The steerer/stem connection is critical. It doesn't sound like
something which should be ignored.

Now - with a quill stem, there will be some slippage under hard impact.  The
bars can twist after a crash, for example. But, if you are able to reset the
angle, and if it is a constant issue to keep them straight, something is
wrong.

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Your Photos are needed! - Send them here -
http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines


"I threw one leg over my battle-scarred all-terrain stump-jumper and rode
several miles to work. I'd sprayed it with some cheap gold paint so it
wouldn't look nice. Locked my bike to a radiator, because you never knew,
and went in."
-- Neal Stephenson, "Zodiac"

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-22 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Well, good luck again, and I hope that the process isn't too
frustrating. You are wise to keep variables to a minimum during a
period of alterations, as you said to Matt. Keep us informed of the
progress.

On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 1:01 AM, Zaelia  wrote:
> Patrick:
>
> When I went to the first fitter and he moved my saddle forward, I was
> totally shocked. I had been moving my saddle back, in small
> adjustments, over the six or so months since I had first had my bike.
> If anything, I thought it could have moved further back or that I was
> getting close to the range needed. I must admit, I wasn't
> uncomfortable with the fitting I received w/ the first fitter, at
> least not when it came to the pressure on my hands, numbness/tingling
> in hands and feet, and sore butt. We just were not able to make my
> upper body feel good. That's why I decided to try another fitter and
> they seem to have put me back to where I started in everything except
> my saddle fore/aft position.
>
> I responded to Steve's post and described my ride today. I think I'll
> just try to focus on my saddle and my cleats for now and see how that
> goes. I was super focused on my upper body after the initial fitting,
> because all the other issues seemed to have been solved. I'm feeling a
> little better about things having gone for a ride today, but getting
> out for a 90 km (56 mile) ride will be the real yardstick.
>
> Thanks for your suggestions. I'll definitely keep them in mind.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-22 Thread Dan Abelson
> How does a steerer tube "wear out"?  How old is this bike, anyway?  I
> had my Paramount 20 years and the steerer never "wore out".
>
>
Its possible that the head tube has been ovalized which could cause that
problem.  I have done that before on a cheap mountain bike that I rode hard.

Dan Abelson
St. Paul, MN

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-22 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sat, 2011-05-21 at 23:48 -0700, Zaelia wrote:
> I guess the more correct way to say this is that the stem is out of
> alignment, so that when you look down at the front of the bike the
> handlebars are not running parallel to the front hub. At least this is
> what I read in my Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repairs. He noted that they
> were not straight, and I told him this was a recurring problem that
> had been looked at and fixed by a number of mechanics. I sarcastically
> said that you just had to look at the handlebars sideways and they
> went out of alignment. He fixed the alignment, tightened the bolt and
> then tried to move the bars out of alignment with his hands. It was
> easy to do. He then tightened the bolt, really wrenching on it and the
> bars still moved. He speculated that the stem and steering column were
> not able to bind and had perhaps worn out where they needed to bind
> (that's the best I can describe what he said, though I'm finding it
> hard to find the right words), and said the only way to have the
> handlebars aligned and bound was to raise the stem.


Have you tried a different stem?  I would certainly try that.

How does a steerer tube "wear out"?  How old is this bike, anyway?  I
had my Paramount 20 years and the steerer never "wore out".

Now maybe, just maybe, if the stem was inserted way above the minimum
insertion line, the steerer could have bulged.   

After I wrote that, I did a google search and turned this up:
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-492373.html



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RE: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread jim phillips

Matt, that is exactly what I did with my Sam Hilborne. I got the seat right 
(height) then carried a wrench with me and adjusted the handlebar height. Then, 
seat fore and aft and finally rechecked the seat height. It took a few days of 
tweeking but the ride is very nice now and I at 60 wake up eacvh morning with a 
few aches and pains to start with. Don't need any extras while out looking at 
the beautiful women,.. ahem, I mean scenery! :^)

best,

JimP

> Date: Sat, 21 May 2011 06:56:22 -0700
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup
> From: matthiasbe...@gmail.com
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> 
> Zaelia, sorry to hear about your troubles with getting the right bike
> fit.
> 
> That being said, please read the remainder of this message
> understanding that it is rather biased :)   I am extremely skeptical
> of "professional" bike fitting.
> 
> I think you're better off just getting the right leg extension (seat-
> height), and then playing around with bar and saddle fore/aft postion
> yourself until you're comfortable.The most important 'fitting'
> session you can have is to ride a bike(!) carrying a 6mm wrench, and
> adjust as necessary.   In fact, always carry that wrench, because even
> after years of riding, you may decide you want your saddle 1cm forward
> or backward or your bars higher/lower.
> 
> Stem length isn't something you can adjust easily without having
> multiple stems (or an adjustable one), so best thing you can do is
> leave your handlebars untaped until you have that settled.Of
> course, as soon as you want to try different handlebars, your
> preferred stem length goes out the window and you have to start over
> again.
> 
> For saddle height, the best advise I've seen is, roughly:sit on
> seat, fully extend leg, heel over pedal, should just barely touch.
> Or, measure 'PBH' rivendell-style, i.e. pulling up as hard as
> possible, then subtract 10cm, set seat-height there.Ride bike,
> adjust as necessary (5mm hex wrench, or whatever size your seat collar
> bolt).
> 
> 
> Finally, keep in mind that bodies/minds change over time, so things
> like desired saddle height and reach change over time for a given
> individual.It is possible that changes will be more rapid and
> pronounced if you are just getting into riding again after a long
> break.Just take your time and ease into it, is the best advise I
> can give.Start with short rides, but do them regularly. In my
> humble opinion, doing 'big' rides before you have your fit/comfort
> dialed-in is going to skew your understanding of your own fit/comfort
> needs, and lead you down the wrong solution paths.
> 
> 
> -Matt
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I forgot to include these:

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5573667399477615730

versus

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5597420339650159730

and perhaps a golden mean

https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/HerseComplete051811?authkey=Gv1sRgCN3SqfugksuC1QE#5609160993638820482

My point in posting these is not to recommend such positions as to
show that, with the right saddle setup -- for the saddles on all three
bikes are more or less identically set up with relationship to the bb
and pedals -- you can get comfortable -- or, at least I can get
comfortable -- with bars of hugely different heights and widths (46
Noodles on Fargo, 38-9 Belleris on Herse, 42 cm 185s on Riv).

FWIW.

On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 1:29 AM, Zaelia  wrote:
> Over the past week I have been consciously paying attention to my body
> and reminding myself to relax. Thanks to those on this list who made
> that suggestion. I do believe this has helped. I was doing this, but I
> don't think I was really doing it well. I was focusing on some parts
> of my body but not focusing on others.
>
> I have also come to accept the fact that my general fitness,
> flexibility and strength, or lack thereof, are likely contributing
> factors. I will be looking into this in more detail.
>
> A week ago, I returned to the first fitter to see about the final
> pieces of my fit. Again, his suggestion was a longer stem and/or a
> handlebar with a longer reach and medium to shallow drop because I was
> bunched up up top. Without telling the whole story, he also raised my
> handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of
> alignment). This put everything out of whack and I was back to having
> pain almost everywhere. I think I'm done with that fitter.
>
> Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed
> everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they
> lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). They said my cleats were both too far
> forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and
> they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit,
> I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and
> arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5
> hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary
> pedalling). For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands,
> they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to
> adjust. I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to
> where I was before the first fitting, but I'll ride with this setup
> and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the
> toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was
> wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new
> shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this
> tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist?
>
> Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/
> handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars
> with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and
> get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing
> results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that
> everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about
> the drops.
>
> So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and
> frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and
> I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's
> why I started the fitting back in the fall. But this is where I find
> myself, so we'll see what happens.
>
> Thanks for reading and for letting me know your experiences and
> thoughts.
>
> Hope you have a great weekend, riding your bike?, wherever you are.
> Zaelia
>
>
>
> --
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>



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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
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patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Zaelia: I'm sorry to hear about the confusion. Can you post a photo or two of

1) a profile of you on the hoods,
2) in the hooks,
3) Of your camera-side leg at full pedal extension?

I know that this will be hard to do, but if these photos could be
taken while you are pedaling at a normal rate and torque, that would
help.

At least photos of you sitting as above and supported by a wall or friend.

I know that different people have different needs, but I have been so
successful myself in creating a comfortable bar by putting my saddle
far back that, again, I wonder if your saddle is simply too far
foward?

In my own case, my bars stay resolutely fixed -- I hardly ever adjust
them once I get them right; it is my saddle and cleats that I am
continually adjusting.

FWIW, I am 56 and while generally fit do little in the way of upper
body exercise.

On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 1:29 AM, Zaelia  wrote:
> Over the past week I have been consciously paying attention to my body
> and reminding myself to relax. Thanks to those on this list who made
> that suggestion. I do believe this has helped. I was doing this, but I
> don't think I was really doing it well. I was focusing on some parts
> of my body but not focusing on others.
>
> I have also come to accept the fact that my general fitness,
> flexibility and strength, or lack thereof, are likely contributing
> factors. I will be looking into this in more detail.
>
> A week ago, I returned to the first fitter to see about the final
> pieces of my fit. Again, his suggestion was a longer stem and/or a
> handlebar with a longer reach and medium to shallow drop because I was
> bunched up up top. Without telling the whole story, he also raised my
> handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of
> alignment). This put everything out of whack and I was back to having
> pain almost everywhere. I think I'm done with that fitter.
>
> Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed
> everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they
> lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). They said my cleats were both too far
> forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and
> they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit,
> I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and
> arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5
> hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary
> pedalling). For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands,
> they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to
> adjust. I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to
> where I was before the first fitting, but I'll ride with this setup
> and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the
> toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was
> wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new
> shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this
> tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist?
>
> Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/
> handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars
> with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and
> get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing
> results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that
> everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about
> the drops.
>
> So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and
> frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and
> I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's
> why I started the fitting back in the fall. But this is where I find
> myself, so we'll see what happens.
>
> Thanks for reading and for letting me know your experiences and
> thoughts.
>
> Hope you have a great weekend, riding your bike?, wherever you are.
> Zaelia
>
>
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>



-- 
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Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-21 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sat, 2011-05-21 at 00:29 -0700, Zaelia wrote:

> Without telling the whole story, he also raised my
> handlebar height (due to my handlebars too easily being put out of
> alignment). 

???  What on earth does that mean?  

> 
> Today, I went to a new LBS and had a new fitting. They reversed
> everything the previous fitter had done! He had raised my saddle, they
> lowered it (by 1/2 to 1 inch). 

What?  That is hugely drastic.  It shouldn't be possible for two fitters
to so disagree on correct seat height.  Generally, I find the "heel on
pedal, leg fully extended" gives me a good height when my foot's in the
proper position for pedaling.


> They said my cleats were both too far
> forward on my shoes and were uneven (set up by previous fitter), and
> they lowered my handlebars. Riding the indoor trainer during the fit,
> I immediately felt some soreness in my knees, weight on my hands and
> arms, and tingling in my toes (I had only ever felt this after 3-5
> hours of riding in the saddle, not from 5 minutes of stationary
> pedalling).

Now that cannot be a good sign.

> For the soreness in my knees and the weight on my hands,
> they talked about the body's memory and how it may take time to
> adjust. 

"Memory"???   Sounds like pure bollocks to me.  


> I feel a little apprehensive, since it felt like I was back to
> where I was before the first fitting, 

I think you have every right to be apprehensive.  Screaming out loud in
terror wouldn't be all that inappropriate.


> but I'll ride with this setup
> and make assessments and adjustments as I go. For the tingling in the
> toes it was suggested I get better shoes. Admittedly, the shoes I was
> wearing were ill-fitting and not very stiff, so I'll see how the new
> shoes fare, but they did say that it's possible I may still feel this
> tingling with the new shoes. Maybe it's time to see a podiatrist?

So let me get this straight.  Before the change in cleat position, no
tingling in the toes.  They change the cleats, your toes start tingling,
and the answer is buy new shoes or see a podiatrist?  What is wrong with
this picture?

> Interestingly, they disagreed with the previous fitter about my stem/
> handlebar setup. They said I should not be getting a longer stem/bars
> with longer reach but should keep my stem (or its relative length) and
> get bars with a shallower reach. I was flummoxed. Such differing
> results. They said I was in no way bunched up up top, but that
> everything looked really good. The were completely unconcerned about
> the drops.
> 
> So, I feel like I'm just going in circles, and I feel deflated and
> frustrated and ready to give up. I have some big rides coming up, and
> I was hoping to have the bike in good shape long before that. That's
> why I started the fitting back in the fall. But this is where I find
> myself, so we'll see what happens.

Disappointing, to be sure.

How's the new position square with this:
http://peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm ?



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RE: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I have 'em on my AHH, and I love them.  But I'm not hard to please on 
handlebars -- many feel great to me, including wide Noodles and narrow old 
Nittos and Cinellis.  And Moustaches, and Albas, and Bullmeese


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Khalid Mateen
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2011 9:47 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

Anyone try th Grand Bois randonneuring handlebars?  Heard they are pretty good.

K.

On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 8:02 PM, charlie 
mailto:charles_v...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
I have the Nitto Rando bars also and will use them on my New Simple
One..just keep in mind that at the hoods they are much narrower. I
think mine measure something like 38 or 39 cm. I like mine just fine
and have about 3000 miles on them. I do also use a Noodle bar on my
geared bike but its a 41cm so I like a narrower bar regardless. I
don't ride in the dirt much so I don't need the wider grip on my road
bike.

On May 15, 4:44 pm, andrew hill 
mailto:neurod...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Hi Zaella,
>
> I just got a 45 cm Rando bar to put on my pending SimpleOne, and will prob 
> use a 10cm dirt-drop stem (lifts it higher).
>
> I've hated drops for the most part, and never gotten use to them, due to my 
> long torso and shortish arms - always felt too forward/down even with an 
> otherwise perfectly fitting stem.  I love mustache and relatively straight 
> bars (like bullmoose) for that reason.
>
> Bit I got the Rando's for the same reason you are considering them - to try 
> some shorter drops.
> The 45's don't feel huge at all - because of the flared drop, they are not 
> only much shallower than a noodle of the same width, the "flats" area is also 
> smaller to make room for the flare.  E.g I doubt you will find the 45s to big.
>
> It'll be a few weeks before I actually mount them on a bike, but i'll let you 
> know what i think once i do, if you are still curious.
>
> Best,
> Andrew
>
> On May 15, 2011, at 4:36 PM, Zaelia wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
> > there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
> > optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
> > individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
> > hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
> > sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
> > everything would click into place.
>
> > Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
> > I'm learning, but it's slow going.
>
> > So with that in mind...
>
> > I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
> > first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
> > improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
> > pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
> > neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
> > shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
> > that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
> > 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
> > changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.
>
> > It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
> > drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
> > feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
> > fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
> > perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
> > that I would not find anything like this in the "retro style". I
> > suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
> > bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
> > anything with a medium to shallow drop.
>
> > At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
> > couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
> > for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
> > mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
> > mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a "similar construction
> > and finish to model 115" (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this "similar
> > construction" means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
> > website does not specify.
>
> > So, I&#

Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread Khalid Mateen
Anyone try th Grand Bois randonneuring handlebars?  Heard they are pretty
good.

K.

On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 8:02 PM, charlie  wrote:

> I have the Nitto Rando bars also and will use them on my New Simple
> One..just keep in mind that at the hoods they are much narrower. I
> think mine measure something like 38 or 39 cm. I like mine just fine
> and have about 3000 miles on them. I do also use a Noodle bar on my
> geared bike but its a 41cm so I like a narrower bar regardless. I
> don't ride in the dirt much so I don't need the wider grip on my road
> bike.
>
> On May 15, 4:44 pm, andrew hill  wrote:
> > Hi Zaella,
> >
> > I just got a 45 cm Rando bar to put on my pending SimpleOne, and will
> prob use a 10cm dirt-drop stem (lifts it higher).
> >
> > I've hated drops for the most part, and never gotten use to them, due to
> my long torso and shortish arms - always felt too forward/down even with an
> otherwise perfectly fitting stem.  I love mustache and relatively straight
> bars (like bullmoose) for that reason.
> >
> > Bit I got the Rando's for the same reason you are considering them - to
> try some shorter drops.
> > The 45's don't feel huge at all - because of the flared drop, they are
> not only much shallower than a noodle of the same width, the "flats" area is
> also smaller to make room for the flare.  E.g I doubt you will find the 45s
> to big.
> >
> > It'll be a few weeks before I actually mount them on a bike, but i'll let
> you know what i think once i do, if you are still curious.
> >
> > Best,
> > Andrew
> >
> > On May 15, 2011, at 4:36 PM, Zaelia wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Discussing bicycles in particular; it has been my experience that
> > > there are a lot of strong opinions out there about what is right or
> > > optimum. Personally, I think that it is whatever works for the
> > > individual. There are so many styles and purposes of riding, it's not
> > > hard to see that a one-fits-all formula isn't possible, even though I
> > > sometimes wish someone could just give me a magic number and
> > > everything would click into place.
> >
> > > Next, I guess I have to admit that a lot of this stuff is Greek to me.
> > > I'm learning, but it's slow going.
> >
> > > So with that in mind...
> >
> > > I've been to my LBS for a bike fitting (a multi-visit process) and we
> > > first took care of the basics, pedals and saddle. Things have
> > > improved. I have almost no hand or foot tingles any more, and knee
> > > pain is gone, for example, but I'm still experiencing shoulder and
> > > neck pain. I definitely feel as though I'm bunched up up top, like my
> > > shoulders are too close to my ears. In a recent visit, we determined
> > > that to start I should get a longer stem. Currently, my Hilsen has an
> > > 8 cm (80 mm) Nitto Technomic stem. It was suggested that, without
> > > changing my handlebars, I get a 10 cm (100 mm) stem.
> >
> > > It was also suggested I get a handlebar that has a medium to shallow
> > > drop since I admitted to almost never riding in the drops because it
> > > feels too uncomfortable. I've got a 42 cm (420 mm) Nitto 115. The
> > > fitter, very keen for me to get an anatomic bar that he thought was
> > > perfect for me, pulled out a black aluminum bar and repeatedly told me
> > > that I would not find anything like this in the "retro style". I
> > > suppose he meant the angular or shaped-curve drops of the anatomic
> > > bars, but I also had the feeling he was saying I wouldn't find
> > > anything with a medium to shallow drop.
> >
> > > At home on my computer, I looked at various Nitto handlebars on a
> > > couple of websites (Riv, Peter White, and Harris Cyclery) and I saw,
> > > for example, that the Nitto 135 Randonneur has a shallower drop at 120
> > > mm compared to my 115 at 140 mm. It has a slightly longer reach at 105
> > > mm compared to my 100 mm, but has basically a "similar construction
> > > and finish to model 115" (Harris Cyclery). I'm assuming this "similar
> > > construction" means it has a 25.4 mm center as well, though the
> > > website does not specify.
> >
> > > So, I'm thinking about getting the Randonneur bars and trying them out
> > > with the new, longer stem. I'll get the improved reach with the longer
> > > stem and a shallower drop for better shifting and increased options
> > > for hand positions.
> >
> > > The last thing is handlebar width. I've read quite a bit about going
> > > for a wider handlebar width. Again, the fitter had different ideas.
> > > Ironically, he could see how maybe my working at a computer for many
> > > hours a day could cause some back problems but did not see that having
> > > a narrow (shoulder width) bar could do the same. The Nitto 135
> > > Randonneur only comes in 2 sizes on the Harris Cyclery website (42 and
> > > 45 cm), so that helps a little. So maybe I'll just throw all my chips
> > > in and get the 45 cm... ?
> >
> > > Well. I'm not sure why I wrote all this. I guess I'm hoping someone

Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-16 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Mon, May 16, 2011 at 5:36 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean
 wrote:
[snip]  Once you get your butt in the right
> place (up-down, front-back, angle), handlebar height and width and
> even the size of and orientation of and material in your grip area
> really fade in significance.

One more chime here: I gave up gloves years ago and find even unpadded
bars with cloth tape comfortable, at least for =< 30 mile rides. And
my bars range from 38-39 cm Belleris to 46 cm Noodles and, as I said,
from 5 cm below to 8 cm above saddle. Good points, Thomas.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar setup

2011-05-15 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I think this is too absolute a recommendation. It's certainly worth
considering but I myself, and others I've heard of, have found lower
bars more comfortable than higher bars, in certain situations and all
else equal, and longer stems more comfortable than shorter ones (in my
case, M-bars were tolerable, insofar as they have been tolerable, with
longer stems, not shorter, and lower, not higher).

This too is not a recommendation, only a warning that you can't always
reduce bar comfort to a simple rule, be it "higher" or "lower" or
"longer" or "shorter."

On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 6:49 PM, MichaelH  wrote:
> You don't say where the bars sit in relation to the saddle.   If they
> are more than a cm below the saddle, then you should certainly
> consider raising the bars.  This will also bring them back toward you,
> so you might consider an 11, instead of a 10 cm stem.  This will bring
> the drops closer to you.
>
> michael

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