Re: [RE-wrenches] Disposal of large scale PV installation?
Try sun electronics in Miami. sunelec.com Kurt Johnsen Kurt Johnsen Energy Systems 352-222-9495 On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 5:24 PM, Dan Fink <danbo...@gmail.com> wrote: > Greetings Wrenches; > > Not the first time I've been asked this question; I can often find homes > for smaller installations with various aid groups I've worked with on > Indian Reservations, but this one is big, and it's "everything must go" > including mods, wiring, racking etc. > > It's just over 1mW of Sunpower 327w modules with microinverters (3200 > modules), the land has sold and the project (it's in PA) has already met > its goal RECs. > > Anyone know if anyone buys this sort of equipment, or can it be recycled? > The demolition company won't store it, so it'll go to the dump. > > Dan Fink > Professor of Solar Energy Technology, Ecotech Institute > IREC Certified Instructor™ for: > ~ PV Installation Professional > ~ Small Wind Installer > Executive Director, Buckville Energy > NABCEP Registered Continuing Education Providers™ > 970.672.4342 > > > > ___ > List sponsored by Redwood Alliance > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change listserver email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches. > org/maillist.html > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out or update participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > > > ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Plastic washers
Jay, There is the consideration of voiding any engineering that is being relied on for your protection. If there is a failure telling the judge that you followed the homeowners instructions is not going to get you off the hook. Kurt Kurt Johnsen Energy Systems On Wed, Jan 27, 2016 at 9:43 AM, Peter Giroux <pgir...@mindspring.com> wrote: > Jay > > Please keep in mind that those plastic / synthetic washers have a high > probability of deteriorating over the next several years creating a new set > of issues. > > Peter > American Solar > > - Original Message - > *From:* Conrad Geyser <conr...@cape.com> > *To:* RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> > *Sent:* Wednesday, January 27, 2016 9:36 AM > *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Plastic washers > > Jay, > > I would suggest that he has a point, that the dissimilar metals do have a > reaction. But that the reaction is self limiting and that stainless > fasteners with aluminum are used in marine applications albeit only with > anodized aluminum. Or say fine and invoice accordingly for the plastic > washers. > > Conrad > Cotuit Solar > > > > > Conrad Geyser, Principal > Cotuit Solar LLC > 508-428-8442 > > On Wed, Jan 27, 2016 at 8:02 AM, Jason Szumlanski < > ja...@floridasolardesigngroup.com> wrote: > >> Another engineer, eh? >> >> I'd say no... Tell him to find another installer. 50 million Elvis fans, >> I mean PV installations, can't be wrong. >> >> Ask him if he brings his own scissors to the hairdresser? That's my >> favorite line. >> >> >> Jason Szumlanski >> >> >> On Wed, Jan 27, 2016 at 12:37 AM, Jay <jay.pe...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> Hi all >>> >>> I've got a client who insists on "plastic " ( synthetic) washers between >>> SS washers and the aluminum racking and modules. >>> >>> I'm tried every angle to assure him it's not a problem to no effect. >>> >>> So anybody have any recommendations about type, material, and where to >>> buy? >>> >>> Thanks >>> >>> Jay >>> Peltz power. >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> List sponsored by Redwood Alliance >>> >>> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >>> >>> Change listserver email address & settings: >>> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >>> >>> List-Archive: >>> http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html >>> >>> List rules & etiquette: >>> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >>> >>> Check out or update participant bios: >>> www.members.re-wrenches.org >>> >>> >> >> ___ >> List sponsored by Redwood Alliance >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Change listserver email address & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: >> http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out or update participant bios: >> www.members.re-wrenches.org >> >> >> > -- > > ___ > List sponsored by Redwood Alliance > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change listserver email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out or update participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > > > ___ > List sponsored by Redwood Alliance > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change listserver email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out or update participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > > > ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Mage Solar US Support contact
wolfgang.beaugr...@magesolar.com Kurt Johnsen On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 8:52 PM, Carl Adams <swingjun...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hello Fellow wrenches, > > I have a couple of failed Mage solar AC modules. These are Mage Solar > panels with an integrated Solardridge inverter. Anyone have a good contact > number for Mage Solar US Support, or do I need to call Germany? > > Thanks > Carl Adams > SunRock Solar > > ___ > List sponsored by Redwood Alliance > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change listserver email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out or update participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > > > ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] to flash or not to flash
To me the reports of not seeing leaks is not terribly reassuring. It’s not surprising when you consider that enough water has to get past tightly compacted shingles under an L foot, travel between the threads and the wood of a tightly threaded lag bolt, and then saturate attic insulation enough to migrate through drywall to be “seen”. Even though my 5 year warranty will have passed, what worries me (here in Florida) is that after 5 or 10 years of no leaks has passed a storm comes through and peels the array off the roof because dry rot has set in around the lag bolts reducing the pull out resistance of the rafters. I like to be able to tell my customers that I always use engineered flashings designed for the specific purpose of preventing water from damaging their home. I don’t want to cut corners on the one thing that every customer fears the most. Besides, it is your only shot at not voiding a roofing warranty that they may have. Kurt Johnsen Kurt Johnsen Energy Systems NABCEP Certified PV Installer 621 SW 26th Place Gainesville, FL 32601 352-222-9495 On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Ray Walters r...@solarray.com wrote: Excellent point, sir. I have looked at quite a few from the attic, later when doing upgrades, and I haven't seen leaks. But NO, I have not carefully gone back on every install to confirm. No news is good news, but that still doesn't mean 100% leak free. Also, I'm working in a drier climate, where small leaks don't cause big problems. Actually many of the systems with L feet I've looked at are not even my own, and (horror) they were sealed with gobs of silicone. I'm doing an inspection on a place with hot water and PV on an shingle roof that is 15+ years old, L feet, no flashings, silicone, and I will do my best for the list, to get in there and really check from the attic side. Take photos if I can, and I'll loosen a few screws to check for any signs of rot around the screw hole. Really these days my favorite product might be a smallish flashing/ large L foot with butyl tape peel off on the bottom. It would go under the shingle above, so its an actualflashing, but not so far up that you get into the next row of nails, or have to cut the shingle much. We also need to really look at the sealant above the flashing and make sure the shingle above the mount is sealed down properly if disturbed. I think trouble with shingle roofs starts when wind and rain can blow back up under a loose shingle. What is the correct method to seal a shingle back down anyway? Heatgun? More roof approved caulking? Chime in ye of more roofing knowledge. R.Ray Walters CTO, Solarray, Inc Nabcep Certified PV Installer, Licensed Master Electrician Solar Design Engineer303 505-8760 On 8/28/2015 1:43 PM, Benn Kilburn wrote: Here is a devils advocate question for everyone (*including myself*) who is claiming no leaks after x-years. Are we assuming no leaks because the home/system owner has not reported any or because there are no water stains on the ceilings below the arrays *or* are we actually looking in the attic and seeing that there are absolutely NO water marks where the attachment points are? I would think that there is a big difference? But having not gone back to every install and actually getting up and looking around *inside the attic*, would it not be presumptuous to assume that there have been no leaks? *Benn Kilburn * CSA Certified Solar Photovoltaic Systems Electrician, SkyFire Energy Inc 6706 – 82 Ave NW | Edmonton, AB | T6B 0E7 P: 780-474-8992 | F: 888-405-5843 | www.skyfireenergy.com [image: email] b...@skyfireenergy.com [image: facebook] https://www.facebook.com/SkyFireEnergy [image: twitter] https://twitter.com/SkyFireEnergy [image: linkedin] https://www.linkedin.com/company/283735?trk=tyahtrkInfo=tarId%3A1408655033432%2Ctas%3Askyfire%2Cidx%3A2-2-5 [image: google] https://plus.google.com/+SkyFireEnergy/ [image: SkyFire Energy Logo_horizontal] On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:52 PM, m...@seesolar.com wrote: I remember the early days of installing, which for us was early 1990's. We used stainless steel rod hangers straight into rafters, which left us with 4 threaded rod sticking up out of the roof. We used thru the roof for sealing under a nut and fender washer. I've visited a couple of those sites recently (still no leaks after over 25 yrs of production). By the way, we have changed our mounting methods since then. Max Balchowsky Design Engineer Golden Bridge Development 1048 Irvine Ave Suite 217 Newport Beach, Ca. 92660 760-403-6810 Building a Better Future For The Next Generation ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] to flash or not to flash
Not that the names of things matter that much but imho flashing does require an overlapping of some kind. An Oatey boot for a metal roof is more of a bedded fitting than a flashing. It relies entirely on fasteners and a sealing membrane whereas flashings rely mostly on natural forces like gravity. Perhaps an experienced roofer weigh in on this. Kurt Johnsen On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 3:21 PM, Jason Szumlanski ja...@floridasolardesigngroup.com wrote: If you place a flat object on top of roofing without an uphill material lapping over the downhill object, you are not flashing. By that logic, an Oatey boot is not a flashing for a plumbing vent on a metal roof. Just sayin'... Jason Szumlanski On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 2:19 PM, William Miller william.mil...@millersolar.com wrote: Ray: I have to respectfully disagree with your semantics. A flashing is an overlapping of roofing materials such that gravity will direct rain and melt water off of the roof. This is a universally accepted waterproofing method that does not depend on any sealant material. The concept is as ancient as the first, crude, thatched roof. If you place a flat object on top of roofing without an uphill material lapping over the downhill object, you are not flashing. What you have described is sealant-dependent weatherproofing. Regardless of the quality of the sealant, or lack thereof, I don’t think you can call it a flashed attachment. (The overarching point is a flashed attachment does not depend on a sealant. Any sealant has a finite lifespan. Removing the sealant variable from the equation results in more lasting installation.) Sincerely, William Miller [image: Gradient Cap_mini] Lic 773985 millersolar.com http://www.millersolar.com/ 805-438-5600 *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Ray Walters *Sent:* Friday, August 07, 2015 10:34 AM *To:* RE-wrenches *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] to flash or not to flash My opinion is that if the L foot has enough surface area it constitutes a flashing, and that large flashings can actually cause more damage to the roof than they prevent. I also agree that an attachement doesn't constitute a penetration. I just finished an install on a metal roof with hundreds of screw holes. We added a few more screw holes, and ours have 20 times the sealant surface area. We did run a 1 conduit through the roof, and since it was an actual penetration, we used a very expensive flexible boot flashing. Personally, I think we need about a 3x3 or 4 x 4 L foot with a double stick butyl tape on the bottom, and all will be well. I realize that the OP was referring to asphalt, but I will flash other roof types that don't do well with L feet ( like shake). ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] SnapNrack - Anti-seize
Thank you everyone for all of the great responses on anti-seize methods! Kurt Johnsen On Mon, Jun 29, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Starlight Solar Power Systems la...@starlightsolar.com wrote: You can use a thin sponge soaked anti-seize and just touch the threads to the sponge. Since it only takes a minute amount of lube to prevent galling, you can prep all your bolts in the shop and bag them. Zip lock the sponge for the next job. Larry Crutcher Starlight Solar Power Systems On Jun 29, 2015, at 10:05 AM, Kurt Johnsen kjenergysyst...@gmail.com wrote: Esteemed Wrenches, Does anyone know of a less tedious and messy way to lube the bolts than squeeze tube anti-seize? My 2 cents; I believe that the torque specs for an engineered assembly are put in there for a reason. Ignoring them puts the installer on the hook for any failures. Aside from being the right thing to do, using torque wrenches helps avoid assuming unnecessary financial risk which my thin margins cannot afford. Kurt Johnsen ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] SnapNrack
Esteemed Wrenches, Does anyone know of a less tedious and messy way to lube the bolts than squeeze tube anti-seize? My 2 cents; I believe that the torque specs for an engineered assembly are put in there for a reason. Ignoring them puts the installer on the hook for any failures. Aside from being the right thing to do, using torque wrenches helps avoid assuming unnecessary financial risk which my thin margins cannot afford. Kurt Johnsen On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 5:27 PM, Ray Walters r...@solarray.com wrote: Besides your note that cordless impact drivers can over torque the clamps, also they spin the bolts too fast which can lead to spalling of the SS hardware. We now hand torque those connects. Finally, most torque specs are for lubricated bolts. We use anti-seize on the threads before torquing. Using a cordless impact driver and no lube can cause not only module damage but also clamp damage, and end up with clamps not actually securing the modules, because the bolts spalled out before fully clamping. R.Ray Walters CTO, Solarray, Inc Nabcep Certified PV Installer, Licensed Master Electrician Solar Design Engineer303 505-8760 On 6/28/2015 3:06 PM, Benn Kilburn wrote: Chris, It sounds (to me) that you are describing the bonding tooth dug through the aluminum frame and into the glass? or at least compressed the frame enough to break the glass? If that is the case then i'm betting that the clamp bolt was way over-torqued. You need to check the recommended tightening torque for the module and for the racking system you are using. For example, what we are using these days, Kinetic, the tightening torque for mid and end clamps is 12 ft-lb and here are some recommended clamping torques from some different module mfgrs Conergy 8 NM - 6 ft-lb Hanwha 5 NM - 3.7 ft-lb JA Solar 18-24 NM - 13-18 ft-lb These likely vary based on the construction of the module frame. I've also found that some module mfgrs do not list recommended tightening torques in their install manuals, so best to use discretion. We had a module break after clamping it down. The crew described it as 'putting the module in place, clamping it down and turning around to grab the next module and hearing a 'crack' followed by the crackling glass sound (if you have ever heard a module break, the crackling sound can last for a few minutes). The break pattern in the glass seemed to focus on a particular mid clamp. I used a torque wrench, set at around 10 ft-lb and checked all the mid-clamp bolts, increasing the torque setting by a few ft-lb each time until it finally turned a bolt instead of clicking. I found that most of the bolts were close to 30 ft-lb and the one that appeared to break the glass was about 34 ft-lb. Suffice to say, we were getting carried away with tightening using cordless impact drivers. At that point i and the rest of the crew started using the torque wrench as we were going along until we had a better feel for what was the proper torque. (i've done this before, but it is something that needs to be self re-calibrated often. *Benn Kilburn * CSA Certified Solar Photovoltaic Systems Electrician, SkyFire Energy Inc 6706 – 82 Ave NW | Edmonton, AB | T6B 0E7 P: 780-474-8992 | F: 888-405-5843 | www.skyfireenergy.com [image: email] b...@skyfireenergy.com [image: facebook] https://www.facebook.com/SkyFireEnergy [image: twitter] https://twitter.com/SkyFireEnergy [image: linkedin] https://www.linkedin.com/company/283735?trk=tyahtrkInfo=tarId%3A1408655033432%2Ctas%3Askyfire%2Cidx%3A2-2-5 [image: google] https://plus.google.com/+SkyFireEnergy/ [image: SkyFire Energy Logo_horizontal] On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:11 PM, Chris Worcester ch...@solarwindworks.com wrote: Hi Jason, Have you or others been using the new UniRac SM mid and end clamps with the integrated bonding yet? My concern is the “Stainless steel Midclamp points, 2 per module, pierce module frame anodization to bond module to module through clamp.” We had an MSI Alpha + self-bonding midclamp shatter the glass on an LG 280 last fall, as the factory set point was sticking out too far, so as it was being tightened down, on top of the module the point dug through the module’s top frame hitting the glass, shattering it. I do wonder if there are any issues with this “point” on the UniRac midclamps potential for doing the same damage? Chris Worcester Solar Wind Works NABCEP Certified PV Installer Office 530-582-4503 Cell 530-448-9692 Fax 530-582-4603 www.solarwindworks.com ch...@solarwindworks.com *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Jason Szumlanski *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2015 1:13 PM *To:* RE-wrenches *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] SnapNrack That decision was based on our distribution network offering better pricing on Unirac, and engineers being comfortable with it. Now with the integrated grounding from
Re: [RE-wrenches] Modules over vents
Should you decide to lower your plumbing vents I have found an inside pipe cutter to be an inexpensive and handy tool. Cut the vent and lead off an inch above your desired pipe height and use the inside cutter to cut the pvc pipe. Go slow and be careful to keep air space between the pvc and lead as the lead will cut very easily. Also I wouldn't rely on us well intentioned wrenches to make the call on the plumbing code in your jurisdiction. Though the state plumbing codes are usually based on the international code, there will be differences. If you can't pull up your state plumbing code online then ask your plumbing inspector. In Florida the minimum height above a roof surface is 6 (904.1). As for relocating 905.2 states that “all vent and branch vent pipes shall be so graded and connected as to drain back to the drainage pipe by gravity”. Table 710.1(1) shows that for 1.5” pipe a slope of ¼” per foot is sufficient to handle 3 fixtures. I would take that to indicate ¼” / foot is plenty for a 1.5” vent. On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 11:20 AM, Dave Click davecl...@fsec.ucf.edu wrote: Flipping through the '04 plumbing code I see a few slopes called out (1/4 per 1' for fixture vents, 1 per 1' for circuit vents, 1/2 per 1' for combination drain/vent...). Fixture vents have a maximum distance of a few feet from fixture trap to vent, but I don't think this prevents you from then running that vent horizontally. 916.2 states that for vents other than stack vents or vent stacks if your vent is 40' you need to upsize the whole vent pipe (tough to do for an existing building, of course). Stack vents have a maximum developed length of 100' for a 1.5 vent which should be enough space to get away from under the PV. I don't see any slope requirements specifically for stack vents but my non-plumber's eye may be missing something. The stack vent sizing Table 916.1 appears (in part) here too and it looks like the tables match up to a 2.5: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/drainage-vents-d_1110.html DKC On 2014/9/24 10:19, Jason Szumlanski wrote: I am unable to find anything in the Florida code that precludes covering a plumbing vent. The code does require the vent to be 6 above the roof surface I believe. I was unable to determine if these vents need to be vertical with no bends in the attic. Obviously you wouldn't want to create a trap in the attic, but a couple of 45's to relocate a plumbing vent to accommodate more PV seems like a desirable thing to do sometimes. Does anyone know if these can be relocated, i.e. to an adjacent roof surface? On my own home I had a vent to deal with. I broke out my saws-all, split the lead like a banana and peeled it back, cut the pipe at an angle, and folded the lead back into the pipe after applying sealant between the lead and pipe. There is a 1 gap between the rim of the pipe and the back of the module. My theory on this working safely is that, a) there will be far less rainwater falling in and around this pipe with a module over it, and b) it is about 24 from the roof ridge and there is a module over it so there will be very little water sheeting down from above the vent. Code notwithstanding, I felt this was a solid method on my own home, and I have inspected it after 6 months of Florida downpours and found no issues. Jason Szumlanski Fafco Solar On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 6:38 AM, Bill Loesch solar1onl...@charter.net wrote: Bruce, August, et al, This is but one more example of confusing terminology. A plumbing vent is not an exhaust vent! A plumbing vent (what August calls a cold vent) is provided to allow the sanitary drain traps (and perhaps more) to operate properly. Without the properly functioning traps you would have sewer gas smell and sewer gas from the plumbing fixtures. This was commonplace when indoor plumbing was introduced to early adopters. An exhaust vent is another animal entirely. An exhaust vent carries the combustion products to a suitable exterior location for dilution with ambient air. With the advent of power vented combustion appliances, a direct vent (one that takes in combustion air from the outside and naturally exhausts combustion products to the outside) is IMHO the only responsible way to install any power vented appliance in a freezing climate. (Power vented appliances come in both condensing and non-condensing flavors-they can penetrate the side wall or the roof). Originally, two separate pipes (with two independent properly separated penetrations) was used. That technique is still often used today. More recently concentric vents have been introduced both for condensing and non-condensing applications. A concentric vent can simplify some installations by putting the exhaust pipe inside a larger air intake pipe allowing for one, albeit larger, penetration. As you might imagine if the exhaust flow is hindered/diverted/redirected by an inappropriately located solar module
Re: [RE-wrenches] Lightning Damage - Need Replacements
sunelec.com in Miami usually has pretty good pricing on the XW 6048s. On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 11:43 PM, Exeltech exelt...@yahoo.com wrote: Wrenches, A friend of mine experienced the destruction of major parts of his system in a recent lightning storm. Everything was extensively grounded and protected, but he lives in an area with very high soil resistivity, so good earth ground is very difficult to achieve. (The lightning hit his wind turbine tower directly. Remarkably, his Bergey 10 kW survived, but everything else in his system got fried.) He's looking for: Two Xantrex XW6048-120/240-60 inverters. They are beyond repair. One Outback MX80 One Outback MX60 New-old stock or used but in good working condition units are preferred. (No failed/repaired units please.) If anyone has any of these units available, or you know of any that are available, please contact me off-list. Thank you. Dan Lepinski ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] OFF-List Reply, Re: Cleaning Paint Off Modules
No problem. Tough love for the painter. On Sun, Jun 8, 2014 at 5:05 PM, Louis Woofenden lo...@woofenden.net wrote: Thanks Kurt! Looks like the manufacturer is fine with any mild cleaner. We'll let the painter have the fun! Cheers, Louis On 6/8/14, 9:48 AM, Kurt Johnsen wrote: Latex paint can be removed with alcohol. Probably a rag damped with it would do the trick. It evaporates quickly. Still better check with manufacturer 1st. kurt On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 12:30 AM, Benn Kilburn b...@skyfireenergy.com wrote: The painter's elbow grease, of course. benn On Jun 4, 2014, at 4:50 PM, Ray Walters r...@solarray.com wrote: I believe most manus approve mild dish soap and water. Geez, it would probably come off with just water and some elbow grease. :-) R.Ray Walters CTO, Solarray, Inc Nabcep Certified PV Installer, Licensed Master Electrician Solar Design Engineer303 505-8760 On 6/4/2014 4:39 PM, Louis Woofenden wrote: Thanks all! We're working on getting in touch with someone from the module manufacturer who can tell us something substantive before proceeding. Best, Louis On 6/4/14, 11:33 AM, Ray Walters wrote: The sooner you get started, the easier it is to get off. The paint is still curing and hardening. Paint doesn't stick well to glass, so probably mild soap and water ( manufacturer approved) and a nylon scrubby pad will cure the problem. R.Ray Walters CTO, Solarray, Inc Nabcep Certified PV Installer, Licensed Master Electrician Solar Design Engineer303 505-8760 On 6/4/2014 12:20 PM, August Goers wrote: I agree with Jason – call the manufacturer. If the modules don’t have any kind of AR coating you can use a razor blade scraper which is slow but thorough. -August *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Jason Szumlanski *Sent:* Wednesday, June 04, 2014 11:13 AM *To:* RE-wrenches *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Cleaning Paint Off Modules If I am the customer, that painter just bought himself a row of modules. As a practical matter, I bet there is little problem with careful use of some kind of solvent, but who knows what the long term effects would be, and I certainly wouldn't take on that liability. Warranty could be an issue, if not some risk immediate damage. Call the manufacturer. They would be the best reference in this case. Jason Szumlanski Fafco Solar On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 1:31 PM, Louis Woofenden lo...@woofenden.net wrote: Hi Wrenches, We have an existing customer who just had their house repainted, and the painter oversprayed significantly on a row of modules. I haven't run into this particular problem before, and am at a bit of a loss about what to recommend to our customer for cleaning up this mess. Anyone have recommendations of cleaning products or techniques to use that won't damage the AR coatings or anything else on the module, yet will remove paint? Or for that matter, what to avoid? Thanks, Louis Woofenden Net Zero Solar Tucson, AZ ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette:www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios:www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette:www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios:www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette:www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios:www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Cleaning Paint Off Modules
Latex paint can be removed with alcohol. Probably a rag damped with it would do the trick. It evaporates quickly. Still better check with manufacturer 1st. kurt On Thu, Jun 5, 2014 at 12:30 AM, Benn Kilburn b...@skyfireenergy.com wrote: The painter's elbow grease, of course. benn On Jun 4, 2014, at 4:50 PM, Ray Walters r...@solarray.com wrote: I believe most manus approve mild dish soap and water. Geez, it would probably come off with just water and some elbow grease. :-) R.Ray Walters CTO, Solarray, Inc Nabcep Certified PV Installer, Licensed Master Electrician Solar Design Engineer303 505-8760 On 6/4/2014 4:39 PM, Louis Woofenden wrote: Thanks all! We're working on getting in touch with someone from the module manufacturer who can tell us something substantive before proceeding. Best, Louis On 6/4/14, 11:33 AM, Ray Walters wrote: The sooner you get started, the easier it is to get off. The paint is still curing and hardening. Paint doesn't stick well to glass, so probably mild soap and water ( manufacturer approved) and a nylon scrubby pad will cure the problem. R.Ray Walters CTO, Solarray, Inc Nabcep Certified PV Installer, Licensed Master Electrician Solar Design Engineer303 505-8760 On 6/4/2014 12:20 PM, August Goers wrote: I agree with Jason – call the manufacturer. If the modules don’t have any kind of AR coating you can use a razor blade scraper which is slow but thorough. -August *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Jason Szumlanski *Sent:* Wednesday, June 04, 2014 11:13 AM *To:* RE-wrenches *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Cleaning Paint Off Modules If I am the customer, that painter just bought himself a row of modules. As a practical matter, I bet there is little problem with careful use of some kind of solvent, but who knows what the long term effects would be, and I certainly wouldn't take on that liability. Warranty could be an issue, if not some risk immediate damage. Call the manufacturer. They would be the best reference in this case. Jason Szumlanski Fafco Solar On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 1:31 PM, Louis Woofenden lo...@woofenden.net wrote: Hi Wrenches, We have an existing customer who just had their house repainted, and the painter oversprayed significantly on a row of modules. I haven't run into this particular problem before, and am at a bit of a loss about what to recommend to our customer for cleaning up this mess. Anyone have recommendations of cleaning products or techniques to use that won't damage the AR coatings or anything else on the module, yet will remove paint? Or for that matter, what to avoid? Thanks, Louis Woofenden Net Zero Solar Tucson, AZ ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette:www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios:www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette:www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios:www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette:www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios:www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive:
