[Repeater-Builder] Re: Weather Radios
You could put an opto-isolator in SERIES with the LEDS, then use the isolated transistoe output to trigger your controller. Henry --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have one with an output, but it seems when I checked into it, it was not suitable for the type of operation we want. I think it was some kind of data output. This applies to the Radio Shack model, at least. Besides, a contact closure won't distinguish between watches and warnings. the LEDs will. Joe M. Rich Garcia wrote: I see a lot of people talking about having to tap off at the LED. I have 2 R/S WX receivers here one is SAME and one is not and both have outputs, I have not messed with the output but I believe that it is a NO contact that closes upon alert and opens when the receiver goes back to mute. The only thing I don't like about it is that most of these radios will mute 4-5 minutes after the alert message, that is a bit long for my taste but you could use the output to fire another relay/timer that is set for lets say 2-3 minutes and that could command the repeater controller. Rich -Original Message- From: Al Wolfe [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:56 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Weather Radios Why reinvent the wheel? SAME receivers have been out for several years. I bought a new Midland for $25 at a hamfest about three years ago. It can be programmed for several SAME code counties, different alerts, etc. It works well at a broadcast station with 50,000 watts ERP on an FM as well as co-located ham repeaters on two and 440. Several megawatt (or so it seems!) pagers system are about a mile away. The voltage states on the LED indicators can be used for determining alerts, tests, etc. Should be useful to control an input to a repeater. FWIW, the EAS decoder/encoders used in broadcast facilities usually start at over a grand, more like $3000, for a decent one. Have no experience with the Rat Shack models, but it would seem that trying to build your own SAME decoder is a lot of work when other options exists, other than an academic exercise. And I can't think of a legitimate reason to retransmit SAME codes on amateur frequencies. I guess if you really need a bullet proof front end you could take the IF signal out of commercial receiver and insert it into a cheap SAME receiver's IF chain. Or you could take the discriminator audio from the commercial receiver into the cheap SAME receiver's detector. The stock whip antenna on the back of the little midland works just fine here, but then, the WX station is only six miles away. I think I'd try a yagi cut to 162 if the signal was weak. Al, K9SI Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Wanted: UHF MICOR 12W PA Deck
I'm looking for a MICOR UHF Repeater/Base Station 12-Watt 450-470 MHz PA Deck, Motorola # TLE1683A. I have one of the 2-watt versions of this PA, which is just about identical except that there is an attenuator that drops the output power from 12W to 2W (what a waste!), but there are some other undocumented parts like the thermistor that I understand would need to be changed, as well. So far, no one that I've talked to has come up with the correct modifications to change it from a 2W to 12W amp except for the part of removing the attenuator assembly. I'm looking for one of the 12W PA Decks to use in a HF Remote Base project, and don't want to use the 75-Watt PA Deck - I've seen way too many of them on service benches at Motorola Service Shops over the years that have smoked. This one will be running key-down for hours at a time, sometimes. I would also be interested in one of the UHF MICOR Station 20-Watt model # TLE1693A or the 45-watt model # TLE1703A PA decks - they look like the 75- watt TLE1713A PA outside with the big rear heat sink, but they have fewer circuit boards and parts inside. Thanks, Larry mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Weather Radios
Yes that would work. I am going to try and trigger the SAME this weekend, I got the files to work with that they use. I was just going to use the voltages from the leds into a relay and send it on to the RLC controller. Wish me luck, should be able to get it. If not, I'll try again. Mathew - Original Message - From: hwingate [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 4:33 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Weather Radios You could put an opto-isolator in SERIES with the LEDS, then use the isolated transistoe output to trigger your controller. Henry --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have one with an output, but it seems when I checked into it, it was not suitable for the type of operation we want. I think it was some kind of data output. This applies to the Radio Shack model, at least. Besides, a contact closure won't distinguish between watches and warnings. the LEDs will. Joe M. Rich Garcia wrote: I see a lot of people talking about having to tap off at the LED. I have 2 R/S WX receivers here one is SAME and one is not and both have outputs, I have not messed with the output but I believe that it is a NO contact that closes upon alert and opens when the receiver goes back to mute. The only thing I don't like about it is that most of these radios will mute 4-5 minutes after the alert message, that is a bit long for my taste but you could use the output to fire another relay/timer that is set for lets say 2-3 minutes and that could command the repeater controller. Rich -Original Message- From: Al Wolfe [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 11:56 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Weather Radios Why reinvent the wheel? SAME receivers have been out for several years. I bought a new Midland for $25 at a hamfest about three years ago. It can be programmed for several SAME code counties, different alerts, etc. It works well at a broadcast station with 50,000 watts ERP on an FM as well as co-located ham repeaters on two and 440. Several megawatt (or so it seems!) pagers system are about a mile away. The voltage states on the LED indicators can be used for determining alerts, tests, etc. Should be useful to control an input to a repeater. FWIW, the EAS decoder/encoders used in broadcast facilities usually start at over a grand, more like $3000, for a decent one. Have no experience with the Rat Shack models, but it would seem that trying to build your own SAME decoder is a lot of work when other options exists, other than an academic exercise. And I can't think of a legitimate reason to retransmit SAME codes on amateur frequencies. I guess if you really need a bullet proof front end you could take the IF signal out of commercial receiver and insert it into a cheap SAME receiver's IF chain. Or you could take the discriminator audio from the commercial receiver into the cheap SAME receiver's detector. The stock whip antenna on the back of the little midland works just fine here, but then, the WX station is only six miles away. I think I'd try a yagi cut to 162 if the signal was weak. Al, K9SI Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 parts/repair needed
Hi all, I'm sorry if my explanation of this problem is incomplete. The RC-850 was connected through a modification to the squelch gate card. I didn't do the mod, but I believe it was done using instructions for modifying a Micor station on repeater-builder.com. As for how it got on that frequency, I don't know. The repeater was purchased, on that frequency, from a ham club in Iowa, I believe. I don't know what resources the Motorola shop has. The director of emergency management has been doing all of the communication with them so what I get is from him. From the sound of things, though, they're not to helpful. I have someone I trust work on my own machines, but it isn't politically correct for him to work on the MSR. The director of emergency management insists on a Motorola shop doing the work, and there is only one in town. He is willing to send it out of town if it would be cheaper, or more effective. Anyone know of anyone in southeast MN or southwest WI that would fit the bill? Thank you all for the responses thus far. I'll try to get answers to your questions and see if we can figure this out. Thanks and 73, Chris Peterson, KG0BP - Original Message - From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 10:45 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 parts/repair needed Chris Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: All, Our local EOC has an MSR-2000 repeater, converted to 146.745- Mhz. How was it converted? It has always had a flaky PA. The local Motorola shop says there is a crack in the board that broke a trace. This has failed about every 6 months and the Motorola shop has simply soldered across the trace and temperarily solved the problem. temporarily solved the problem ..? Now, though, we're having a different problem. When it gets hot, the repeater TX drops out completely, sometimes for a couple minutes. This, to me, sounds like an exciter problem, or possibly a bad connection between the exciter and PA, I would not make that assumption. You can use the metering points to help find the problem. but the Motorola shop has tried to blame the RC-850 that is connected to the repeater. Consider a different repair shop for your next job. We've disconnected the RC-850 and still have the problem using the internal controller, See my comment just above. so we believe we've mostly ruled out the modification as being the problem. What was the modification? I'm looking for replacement PAs, exciters, or any other MSR-2000 parts. Contact me off the group, I can probably help you solve your problem. I'd also be interested to know if any other Motorola parts will directly drop in. I.E. Mitrek parts? Some, not all. Depending on what band and model you have, some Micor and Consolette units have some similar parts. It's storm season now, so we'd like to get the repeater functioning properly as soon as possible. Thanks and 73, Chris Peterson, KG0BP cheers skipp www.radiowrench.com also skipp025 @ yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 parts/repair needed
Hello ... skipp025 wrote: Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello ... Back in the ... er ... ah ... late eighties: When the MSR-2000 was in its prime time. Mid - late eighties? Ordered a new 450 MHz MSR2000 from the big M ... was shipped as expected - had the 12 VDC only option - was going to a 12 volt only site that used a thermo-electric generator for power. Wasn't for Cobb Mtn was it? For a location known as the Geysers? Nope ... much closer to the west coast. :) The license for this station said 20 watts output maximum. The only way it was orderable was the full power model at 75 watts output. A round of sales person BS was what you received. Lower power versions were available. I have a number of ~30 watt rated output MSR UHF PA's. Ordered that way new from the Big M. Well, I didn't know that. Wish I had though, would have saved me a bunch of time. The TEG I put in at the Geysers ate propane like crazy, but it put out a healty 22 amps. Ours charged a pair of 8D 'cat' batteries. We used the radios off them. Somewhere around here I have a video tape of that installation. I think it is the same video tape of another friendly commenter on this remailer ... showing in great detail his grand radio installation in his 80's Chevy Camaro. For a short period of time, FEMA Gettysburg borrowed that video to show what they thought was an interesting installation of several radio sites. After careful study of the transmitter and the associated schematic diagrams, I noticed the PA driver stage was identical to the PA final stage execpt the driver stage comprised of one module and the final had three of the same modules. Motorhead PA designers were smart along one line, making most of the stages 50 ohms in and out. One could route around a stage for lower power operation. Was very handy for trouble-shooting the T34 / 44 MST Motrans when they had a problem. The first time I ever saw one, I called the Motorola factory Service people asking how do we service these radios - since there were no clues in the Instruction Manual. The Motorola reply was 'We're hoping you will tell us.' Fortunately, I had some non 2 way radio lab experience with 50 ohm RF circuitry so we had it figured out pretty soon. Also owning a one watt 200-500 MHz Bird Slug helped too. After some careful thought, I slightly modified the PA deck by bypassing the three module PA Amplifier and connect the driver stage (1 module) to the output. Got 16 watts out of the deal discovering it was very stable and lowered the DC power drain a lot. a big lot... True ... Since this was a licensed link radio, the distance was 9.1 miles, I figured the 16 watts would be way overkill. It was, it would take less than 2 watts with decent 8db yagi antennas. Never tried that - just wanted to be sure we had sufficient overkill to ensure would not fail. My testing from the shop using a ground plane for an antenna, I could bring up one of the systems with the service monitor. Neil - WA6KLA The Service Monitor test with a dial tone can really freak out the system users. Everyone starts looking for a place to hang up the phone. Sounds like the users could have a real hang-up with that one ... ;) cheers Neil skipp www.radiowrench.com skipp025 at yahoo.com 73, Neil - WA6KLA Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 parts/repair needed
I'd like to find a continuous-duty MSR-2000 450-470 MHz PA Deck (any level, but 20-40 watts would be more than enough). I'm trusting that they would directly swap out with the one that I'm using now - I have a 100-watt intermittent duty MSR-2000 Repeater on a UHF Ham channel, but don't want to cook the PA deck. Most people I know that have used these in Ham (continuous-duty) service have fried the intermittent-duty PA deck numerous times, even with fans blowing continuously on the heat sinks. When we had these in service with the local Police Dept., we always had to keep plenty of the PA Deck repair kits in stock ($450+ for each one!) Larry To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 parts/repair needed Hello ... skipp025 wrote: A round of sales person BS was what you received. Lower power versions were available. I have a number of ~30 watt rated output MSR UHF PA's. Ordered that way new from the Big M. mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] ukirlp june 2004 newsletter
ukirlp june 2004 newsletter http://www.qsl.net/g3zhi/newsletter.DOC 73 Ian G3ZHI http://www.qsl.net/g3zhi - many ham radio links http://www.ukirlp.co.uk G4NJI IRLP 5200 Echolink 135909 Rotherham simplex 145.2875mhz GB3XN IRLP 5708 Echolink 153126 Langold 430.925 Mhz Ian Abel G3ZHI 52 Hollytree Ave Maltby Rotherham Yorkshire S66 8DY Tel: 01709 799911 Mobile 0783 338 0578 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wanted: UHF MICOR 12W PA Deck
Joe - thanks for the info. This particular MICOR UHF Repeater I just picked up came without a PA deck at all (someone else beat me to it), so since I was looking for one, I decided to try to find a lower power one than the usual 75 watt ones that usually come with them. I really didn't want to have to go through a bunch of modifications to one if I really didn't have to. Hopefully one will turn up! Thanks, LJ Original Message: - From: Joe Montierth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2004 22:26:02 -0700 (PDT) To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wanted: UHF MICOR 12W PA Deck --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm looking for a MICOR UHF Repeater/Base Station 12-Watt 450-470 MHz PA Deck, Motorola # TLE1683A. I have one of the 2-watt versions of this PA, which is just about identical except that there is an attenuator that drops the output power from 12W to 2W (what a waste!), but there are some other undocumented parts like the thermistor that I understand would need to be changed, as well. So far, no one that I've talked to has come up with the correct modifications to change it from a 2W to 12W amp except for the part of removing the attenuator assembly. I'm looking for one of the 12W PA Decks to use in a HF Remote Base project, and don't want to use the 75-Watt PA Deck - I've seen way too many of them on service benches at Motorola Service Shops over the years that have smoked. This one will be running key-down for hours at a time, sometimes. I would also be interested in one of the UHF MICOR Station 20-Watt model # TLE1693A or the 45-watt model # TLE1703A PA decks - they look like the 75- watt TLE1713A PA outside with the big rear heat sink, but they have fewer circuit boards and parts inside. Thanks, Larry You might consider bypassing the final stage in the UHF micor, the stage that drives it is good for 25 watts or so continuous duty. On that big heatsink the thing probably won't even get warm. You might have to modify the power control board slightly by changing a couple of resistors. It might not allow good power control down in the 25 watt range without the mod. With proper mods, the power control board is good down to 2 watts or so. The 25 watt portion can be adjusted down to 10 watts or so. The stage that drives the 25 watt section will put out 10+ watts, and the controlled stage will usually put out 4-7 watts. All of the stages couple at 50 ohms, so just determine what you want power wise, and use the stage that fits your needs. Joe __ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ Yahoo! Groups Links mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] micor repeater
i have several extra motorola micor power supplys if you have not located one yet The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wanted: UHF MICOR 12W PA Deck
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joe - thanks for the info. This particular MICOR UHF Repeater I just picked up came without a PA deck at all (someone else beat me to it), so since I was looking for one, I decided to try to find a lower power one than the usual 75 watt ones that usually come with them. I really didn't want to have to go through a bunch of modifications to one if I really didn't have to. Hopefully one will turn up! Thanks, LJ It's not a lot of modification, basically you move the output cable from the 75 watt stage to the 25 watt stage, and remove the DC power feed to the dead 75 watt stage. Probably takes 15 minutes max. If you ever want to move it back to 75 watts, just reverse the process. The power control board mod is 2 resistors. The 12 watt units are relatively rare, the 75 watt units show up on e-bay quite often in the $100 range. It's just an idea if one of the low power units doesn't show up, or you have access to the more common higher power PA. It also works with the mobile PA, if you get real desperate. The mobile heatsink runs fairly cool at the 10-15 watt level. Joe __ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 PA models
Hi Larry, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'd like to find a continuous-duty MSR-2000 450-470 MHz PA Deck (any level, but 20-40 watts would be more than enough). It's all about the PA heat sink, which IMO doesn't support high duty cycle operation above say... 25-35 watts without a fan. The Lower power MSR UHF PA's have different circuits, but the heat sink is the same as the 110 watt version. A small ball bearing boxer type fan is prudent. I put a pair on the cabinet rails underneath the side vents blowing air out the top sides. I place house heating/AC filter material over the front vents to keep the dust intake under control. I'm trusting that they would directly swap out with the one that I'm using now - Yes and no... the power supply included with the low power MSR unit is the consolette type layout and the mounting hardware is a bit different. If you use the 110 watt MSR power supply, you'll be wasting a lot of energy in the transformer, by the way it operates. It would be more practical to run the low power PA in the repeater and run the repeater off an external supply so your utility bill is mucho less. A typical MSR and Micor high power supply can and will gobble a lot of energy while space heating your cabinet. Keeps the mice warm if you don't have the rodent cable port screen/panel in place. I have a 100-watt intermittent duty MSR-2000 Repeater on a UHF Ham channel, but don't want to cook the PA deck. If you really trust your antenna system, turn the 110 watt pa down to ~60 watts and put a fan on it. (provided you're using the original MSR internal duplexer, properly adjusted). Most people I know that have used these in Ham (continuous-duty) service have fried the intermittent-duty PA deck numerous times, even with fans blowing continuously on the heat sinks. When we had these in service with the local Police Dept., we always had to keep plenty of the PA Deck repair kits in stock ($450+ for each one!) Larry There are power, voltage and current controls on the PA control board. When the mentioned controls are properly dialed in at the 65 watt value, you should be able to run higher tx duty cycles. The limit and power controls function very well, understanding their setup and operation via the manual instructions is not an easy first read. I have not lost an MSR PA in decades from heat falure since pulling back on the throttle and setting the protection pots for the lower value. I actually don't even run fans much except in/on busy trunking MSR-2000 conversions. You don't really need the 40 watt PA. Feel free to Email me direct off the list if you have specific questions. cheers skipp www.radiowrench.com skipp025 at yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wanted: UHF MICOR 12W PA Deck
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm looking for a MICOR UHF Repeater/Base Station 12-Watt 450-470 MHz PA Deck, Motorola # TLE1683A. I have one of the 2-watt versions of this PA, which is just about identical except that there is an attenuator that drops the output power from 12W to 2W (what a waste!), but there are some other undocumented parts like the thermistor that I understand would need to be changed, as well. So far, no one that I've talked to has come up with the correct modifications to change it from a 2W to 12W amp except for the part of removing the attenuator assembly. I'm looking for one of the 12W PA Decks to use in a HF Remote Base project, and don't want to use the 75-Watt PA Deck - I've seen way too many of them on service benches at Motorola Service Shops over the years that have smoked. This one will be running key-down for hours at a time, sometimes. I would also be interested in one of the UHF MICOR Station 20-Watt model # TLE1693A or the 45-watt model # TLE1703A PA decks - they look like the 75- watt TLE1713A PA outside with the big rear heat sink, but they have fewer circuit boards and parts inside. Thanks, Larry You might consider bypassing the final stage in the UHF micor, the stage that drives it is good for 25 watts or so continuous duty. On that big heatsink the thing probably won't even get warm. You might have to modify the power control board slightly by changing a couple of resistors. It might not allow good power control down in the 25 watt range without the mod. With proper mods, the power control board is good down to 2 watts or so. The 25 watt portion can be adjusted down to 10 watts or so. The stage that drives the 25 watt section will put out 10+ watts, and the controlled stage will usually put out 4-7 watts. All of the stages couple at 50 ohms, so just determine what you want power wise, and use the stage that fits your needs. Joe __ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Speaking of Cushmans
Does anyone have a schematic and/or board layout for the horizontal deflection board on a Cushman CE5? Just picked one up at a hamfest and the scope works but no horizontal deflection. Art - KC7GF Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] New Ant
After decades of experimentation, combined with a 30-year engineering career and Yankee ingenuity, Rob Vincent has invented a revolutionary antenna technology. The distributed- load, monopole antennas are smaller, produce high efficiency, and retain good to excellent bandwidth. And they have multiple applications. With this technology it will be possible to double, at minimum, the range of walkie-talkies used by police, fire, and other municipal personnel. More at http://www.uri.edu/news/releases/?id=2659 Interesting Ant Don KA9QJG Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] EF Johnson 242-7172
I was wondering if anyone has Worked With a EF Johnson 242-7172 UHF Mobile Radios ? I need to Find Out Some Information On this Model Radio . 73's Steve . Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] EF Johnson 242-7172
I work on them everyday. Daniel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was wondering if anyone has Worked With a EF Johnson 242-7172 UHF Mobile Radios ?I need to Find Out Some Information On this Model Radio .73'sSteve . Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] EF Johnson 242-7172
Can These Radios be Used to Make a Repeater ? Steve Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] EF Johnson 242-7172
Daniel , Is there anyway you and I can Link Up Direct to talk about the EFJ-242-7172 Radios ? Steve . Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
