Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: LMR-1200

2007-01-28 Thread k1ike_mail
 2 additional connectors and a jumper at the antenna is still a potential 
source of trouble in the future, especially for someone who may not be familiar 
with how to install them properly.  LDF4-50A is used extensively and almost 
exclusively in the cellular business for antenna jumpers.

Joe
 -- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Good N connectors are virtually lossless @ 450 MHz,  4 ft. of RG-214 (2 
 ft. each jumper) has 0.2 dB loss.  I know there's a difference of opinion 
 on this subject, but I'd never directly connect LDF4-50 to an antenna.

---BeginMessage---













At 1/27/2007 06:47, you wrote:
LMR-1200 has about .9dB loss for 100 feet
LDF4-50A has about 1.45dB loss for 100 feet

At first glance, it looks like you can gain a little more than 1/2dB by 
using LMR-1200.  Now. the real world.  LMR-1200 will require a jumper at 
the top and the bottom of the cable run. (It's too big to connect directly 
to the antenna or the duplexer at the bottom).  This means that you will 
have to have 4 additional connectors and 2 short lengths of jumper cable 
when using LMR-1200.  This will add up to much more loss than the 1/2dB 
you saved by using LMR-1200.

Good N connectors are virtually lossless @ 450 MHz,  4 ft. of RG-214 (2 
ft. each jumper) has 0.2 dB loss.  I know there's a difference of opinion 
on this subject, but I'd never directly connect LDF4-50 to an antenna.

However, the real reason not to use LMR-1200 in duplex feeds is the 
braid-over-foil shield, which will eventually cause desense  IMD.  The key 
word is eventually: maybe 6 months after install, maybe 30 
years.  Nothing like solid copper to keep those stray electrons in line  ;)

Bob NO6B


  






---End Message---


Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Phelps Dodge 526 frequency range

2007-01-28 Thread Bob M.
They do have excellent notch rejection, but very poor
bandpass qualities. If you look at a wide-band
spectrum plot, say from 0 to 1000 MHz, you'll find the
two notches, and many peaks, but the majority of the
signal gets through with nearly no attenuation. It's
almost flat from 0 to maybe 400 MHz, and flat from 500
to 1000 MHz, with perhaps 5dB loss. I've seen other
duplexers that have two notches and two peaks, and
everything else is attenuated a considerable amount
(over 60dB). Not so with the Celwave/PD 526 series.

Call or write to Celwave (now RFSystems) and ask them
for the cutting chart for units using RG400. Last time
I tried that, every technician I spoke with told me,
in no certain terms, that they NEVER used RG400 or
RG142, yet I have seen photos and one actual unit that
was factory fresh and had that unmistakeable tan
colored, RG58-size teflon coax that I know is not
RG214. Maybe they finally realized that they DID make
them that way.

I've never been able to figure out the actual lengths
of the coax jumpers on these things. Of course, the
coupling loop inside the cavity probably has something
to do with the length too. Since I don't want to drill
the rivets to find out what's inside, I'll stick with
the cables the factory sends out.

By the way, my first unit had RG8 with clamp-on male N
connectors. Every one had been twisted so much that
pieces of braid were shorting out the center pin and
there was no longer a good electrical ground circuit.
So I bought one brand new set of cables for 440-450
MHz for $250. When I had to do this the second time, I
built my own; 6 ft of RG214 and a dozen crimp-on male
N connectors cost a whole lot less than $250.

Bob M.
==
--- mdnosliw [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, mdnosliw
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 wrote:
 
  I recently picked up a Phelps Dodge 526-5 on
 e-bay. The auction 
 stated 
  that it would work in the ham band. When I
 received it I discovered 
  that it was a 470 to 512 mhz model.
  
  If I replace the cables can I get it to tune down
 to the 440 segment 
  of the band.
  
  Thanks
  
  Mark
 
 Thanks for the info Bob. I know that there are
 different versions of 
 the notch filter, but I think that relates to filter
 bandwidth.
 
 Yes I have the cable length chart, but I think I
 prefer to use RG-
 400.Should not be a big deal to do the math.
 
 I have 3 526's and think it is the best Uhf duplexer
 that can be had.
 
 
 Thanks
 Mark


 

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with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna on the side of a water tower

2007-01-28 Thread roger.white
For a water tower, I would imagine the backside null is rather substantial. A 
club I was associated with more than 20 years ago tried the side mounting of an 
2 meter antenna on the railing of a old style water tower (four legs supporting 
the Ball. It performed as expected with deep, very noticeable (on the air) 
nulls off the back. However, if that is all you can get, then go for it. I have 
seen guys mount a Rohn 25 type tower on the platform where the railing is, 
mount the antenna on top of the tower section(s) and then the top of the 
antenna will see over the top of the water tower. I guess it should work. 
However. I bet there is a mechanical situation that has to be worked out to 
insure mechanical integrity during high winds. If you can bolt the tower top to 
the ball, that would help. I have seen that also.

Roger W5RD

From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2007/01/26 Fri PM 12:16:39 CST
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna on the side of a water tower

  

Can anyone point me to something that will show me the antenna pattern 
for a VHF and UHF antenna mounted on the side of a water tank at 
different distances from the tank?

I've been offered a site, but I can't have top mount, I have to go on 
the side.  I have the mfgr's docs showing pattern with different 
distances between the loops and the mast, but I don't have any info on 
how the big metal tank reflection will disturb the pattern.

I'm sure there's an optimal distance, but I don't know what it would 
be.




Roger White
Murphy, Texas


RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

2007-01-28 Thread k1ike_mail
They are combined.  Nextel does this and calls it a Quasi-Omni site.  There 
are some drawbacks to it, but it actually works quite well.  Most panel 
antennas used are 90 or 65 degree antennas.  The biggest drawback is the 6dB 
hit that you take on receive and some strange nulls between the sectors.  The 
3-diversity receive scheme they use seems to help in these areas.

As you stated, a voter would be the best solution to the water tank site.  But. 
what would you do about transmit?  Switching the transmit would eliminate the 
omnidirectional coverage that you need for mobile-to-mobile communications.  
This would start to get to be a very complex system.  I was trying to keep it 
simple a affordable.

Joe

 -- Original message --
From: Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Joe,
 
 I don't think those three panel antennas are combined at all.  Most cellular
 and PCS providers are using 120-degree panel antennas to cover three
 120-degree sectors, each with its own base station, effectively tripling
 their capacity.  The older omnidirectional antenna cell sites- usually a
 cluster of fiberglass vertical pairs, one pointing up and one pointing down-
 are being retrofitted with panel antennas.  Panel antennas are much easier
 to camouflage, and they can be physically tilted for better close-in
 coverage.
 
 One solution to obtaining omnidirectional coverage around a water tank-
 assuming your site owner will allow you to put up three antennas- is to use
 a voter to select the best signal from three low-gain Yagi antennas, and
 switch the transmitter output to that antenna.  I suppose combining would
 work, but I wonder if destructive cancellation will rear its ugly head.
 
 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
  
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe
 Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 3:17 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower
 
 snip
 
 One of the carriers does something similar. They put panel antennas on 
 each of the 3 faces, then combine them into one omni-directional antenna 
 system. It does work. I know of several water tank installations that are 
 just like this.
 
 Joe
 
 


---BeginMessage---













Joe,

I don't think those three panel antennas are combined at all.  Most cellular
and PCS providers are using 120-degree panel antennas to cover three
120-degree sectors, each with its own base station, effectively tripling
their capacity.  The older omnidirectional antenna cell sites- usually a
cluster of fiberglass vertical pairs, one pointing up and one pointing down-
are being retrofitted with panel antennas.  Panel antennas are much easier
to camouflage, and they can be physically tilted for better close-in
coverage.

One solution to obtaining omnidirectional coverage around a water tank-
assuming your site owner will allow you to put up three antennas- is to use
a voter to select the best signal from three low-gain Yagi antennas, and
switch the transmitter output to that antenna.  I suppose combining would
work, but I wonder if destructive cancellation will rear its ugly head.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 3:17 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

snip

One of the carriers does something similar. They put panel antennas on 
each of the 3 faces, then combine them into one omni-directional antenna 
system. It does work. I know of several water tank installations that are 
just like this.

Joe


  






---End Message---


[Repeater-Builder] Link-Comm - Micor carrier squelch timing (was GE squelch)

2007-01-28 Thread Kevin Custer

Bob, et al,

Bob wrote:
FWIW, I never use pin 10 at all;


Kevin wrote:
I try to use that pin when I can, and prefer it over the open emitter
shunt switches.
  

Incidentally, the Link-Comm board uses the 2.2 uF cap / pin 10
combination to drive the COS output buffer...
FWIW


Bob wrote:
Really!  I noticed some decay problems with an RLC-MOT we have on an SCom 
7k.  I've always attributed it to COS line propagation delay in the 
controller, but perhaps the 2.2 µF cap is the major culprit.  We solved the 
problem by using the onboard audio gating, which I see uses pins 6  7 of 
the Micor squelch IC.


Maybe we can ask Link-Comm to do a timing test on their unit and then 
change the 2.2 uF capacitor on pin 10 to something else and see if it 
changes the attack/decay of the COS action?


Steve or Allan  - you out there?

Kevin Custer




[Repeater-Builder] Re: Too fast squelch on GE Master

2007-01-28 Thread E J Moses
I use the Link Comm audio delay and stretch the slow squelch out (on the
GE) with a larger cap. Seems to work pretty well on this Mastr II and RLC
Club combo.
73



[Repeater-Builder] MVP ICS Problem

2007-01-28 Thread kb5vjy
Greetings,

I am having a problem with a 440 repeater that I am putting 
together.  I started with a MVP custom that I converted to 70cm and 
duplex modded.  The radio tuned quite nicely on 443.800 tx and 
448.800 rx.  Tx and Rx well before the duplex mod.  I made sure to 
get Hi side LO xtal for my rx also.  I installed the ICS Basic 
controller and the COS is working, and ptt working great.  But I 
have a horrable feedback injection.  I can turn down the audio on 
the controller to its lowest setting and still have the feedback.  I 
can turn the radio's PA down to 500mw and the feedback goes away, 
but there is still noise in the audio.  When I turn the pa back up 
or even to from 2-10w the noise is back even in the squelch tail.  
If I disconnect the controller, my feedback goes away.  I have also 
directly connecting my rx audio to my tx audio and keying the 
xmitter, and using my ht supplying an imput signal and get good 
audio out at full power.  But when I put the controller back in line 
the feedback resumes.  I also noticed waiving my hand over the 
controller while the feedback is happening changes the frequency of 
the feedback.  Any ideas?

Thanks and 73 de Joe KB5VJY -- First repeater project not working 
out!



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Link-Comm - Micor carrier squelch timing (was GE squelch)

2007-01-28 Thread Allan Overcast
I will see if I can perform that test on Monday AM and post the results.  BTW, 
the typical propogation delay through all the controllers is less that 5mS, so 
pretty fast.
   
  Allan Overcast KF7FW
  Link Communications, Inc.
  www.link-comm.com
  

Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Bob, et al, 
Bob wrote:  FWIW, I never use pin 10 at all;  

Kevin wrote:  I try to use that pin when I can, and prefer it over the open 
emitter  shunt switches.

Incidentally, the Link-Comm board uses the 2.2 uF cap / pin 10  combination to 
drive the COS output buffer...  FWIW  

Bob wrote:  Really!  I noticed some decay problems with an RLC-MOT we have on 
an SCom   7k.  I've always attributed it to COS line propagation delay in the   
controller, but perhaps the 2.2 µF cap is the major culprit.  We solved the   
problem by using the onboard audio gating, which I see uses pins 6  7 of   the 
Micor squelch IC.

Maybe we can ask Link-Comm to do a timing test on their unit and then change 
the 2.2 uF capacitor on pin 10 to something else and see if it changes the 
attack/decay of the COS action?

Steve or Allan  - you out there?

Kevin Custer


  

 

 
-
Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people 
who know.

[Repeater-Builder] F/S 120 Watt Midland UHF Continuous Duty Repeater Amplifier

2007-01-28 Thread Vincent Caruso
F/S 120 Watt Midland UHF Continuous Duty Repeater Amplifier

This unit was our shop spare and saw about 96 hours worth of use.

It takes 5 watts to drive and puts out 120 watts.

I believe these were manufactured for Midland by TPL

The unit is rack mountable and comes with rack mount kit.

We currently have one plus a spare tuned down to 444.XXX running at 110 
Watts

I will include a copy of the Amplifier section of the Midland Manual as 
well.

I am asking $350.00 plus shipping

e-mail me directly for pics.

Vince




Re: [Repeater-Builder] MVP ICS Problem

2007-01-28 Thread no6b
At 1/28/2007 06:59, you wrote:
The moment you stated that waving your hand over the controller says that 
you have an RFI problem.  If that controller is a board that is just meant 
to go in the radio, you will need to shield it well, and possibly find out 
what inside the radio is leaking RF that gets into the controller.

Better yet, mount the controller in an RF-tight box with EMI feedthroughs 
on the power.  The I/O will be difficult to bypass; I've never found it 
necessary to do that but your situation may be different.

Bob NO6B




Re: [Repeater-Builder] Link-Comm - Micor carrier squelch timing (was GE squelch)

2007-01-28 Thread no6b
At 1/28/2007 07:26, you wrote:
I will see if I can perform that test on Monday AM and post the 
results.  BTW, the typical propogation delay through all the controllers 
is less that 5mS, so pretty fast.

..except the RLC-3  RLC-4, unless there's been very recent firmware 
upgrades that have taken care of that issue.

Bob NO6B




[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

2007-01-28 Thread skipp025
Which reminds me that I should have mentioned the available scan 
of club using a series of yagi antennas around a wide tower to 
obtain a quasi omni pattern.   You can probably find the info 
on the repeater builder antenna page along with the mounting offset 
paper I mentioned earlier.  

skipp 

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 For a water tower, I would imagine the backside null is rather
substantial. A club I was associated with more than 20 years ago tried
the side mounting of an 2 meter antenna on the railing of a old style
water tower (four legs supporting the Ball. It performed as expected
with deep, very noticeable (on the air) nulls off the back. However,
if that is all you can get, then go for it. I have seen guys mount a
Rohn 25 type tower on the platform where the railing is, mount the
antenna on top of the tower section(s) and then the top of the antenna
will see over the top of the water tower. I guess it should work.
However. I bet there is a mechanical situation that has to be worked
out to insure mechanical integrity during high winds. If you can bolt
the tower top to the ball, that would help. I have seen that also.
 
 Roger W5RD
 
 From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2007/01/26 Fri PM 12:16:39 CST
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna on the side of a water tower
 
   
 
 Can anyone point me to something that will show me the antenna pattern 
 for a VHF and UHF antenna mounted on the side of a water tank at 
 different distances from the tank?
 
 I've been offered a site, but I can't have top mount, I have to go on 
 the side.  I have the mfgr's docs showing pattern with different 
 distances between the loops and the mast, but I don't have any info on 
 how the big metal tank reflection will disturb the pattern.
 
 I'm sure there's an optimal distance, but I don't know what it would 
 be.
 
 
 
 
 Roger White
 Murphy, Texas





[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood KMC-18 Microphone

2007-01-28 Thread Doug W7FDF
I just checked the Repeater-Builder Kenwood section that discusses the
various microphone wiring schemes 
http://www.repeater-builder.com/kenwood/kenwood-misc-connectors.pdf
for different Kenwood Ham rigs but, no information on commercial
radios. Does anyone on this list happen to have a schematic diagram of
the KMC-18 DTMF microphone with the modular 6-pin connector on it??

I would like to adapt this mic [change the connector to the 8 pin
type] to my Kenwood 440 UHF TM-441A radio. The 441A rig requires a 600
ohm impedance mic [I have the stock factory one but its a little beat
up]. It is assumed that the KMC-18 being a Kenwood product, is a 600
ohm mic. Thanks!!

Doug W7FDF
Vail, Arizona U.S.A.
OK to email me off the list if necessary.



RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Phelps Dodge 526 frequency range

2007-01-28 Thread Jeff DePolo
 Call or write to Celwave (now RFSystems) and ask them
 for the cutting chart for units using RG400. Last time
 I tried that, every technician I spoke with told me,
 in no certain terms, that they NEVER used RG400 or
 RG142, yet I have seen photos and one actual unit that
 was factory fresh and had that unmistakeable tan
 colored, RG58-size teflon coax that I know is not
 RG214. Maybe they finally realized that they DID make
 them that way.

I have two 526's that use RG142B/U for interconnects.  One of them appears
to be a regular duplexer, the other appears to have been spec'ed for use on
a close-spaced combiner/multicoupler (passbands shown as being 250 kHz
wide).

I've recabled T-band 526's down to 440-470 as well.  IIRC, the cable lengths
for RG-214/U were 12 to the antenna tee, and 11.5 everywhere else.  The
loss on the T-band ones seems to be just a tad higher than the 440-470 ones.
Perhaps the loops are a little smaller on the T-band ones.  Like you, I
haven't drilled them out to a comparison over 0.2 dB.

 By the way, my first unit had RG8 with clamp-on male N
 connectors. Every one had been twisted so much that
 pieces of braid were shorting out the center pin and
 there was no longer a good electrical ground circuit.

Yeah, the old ones with RG8 interconnects also tend to have self-noise from
the now-tarnished 15+ year old copper braid.  Same thing with older PD696's.

--- Jeff




[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

2007-01-28 Thread Dave VanHorn
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Which reminds me that I should have mentioned the available scan 
 of club using a series of yagi antennas around a wide tower to 
 obtain a quasi omni pattern.   You can probably find the info 
 on the repeater builder antenna page along with the mounting offset 
 paper I mentioned earlier.  

Somehow, I don't think the paper pointed to earlier is the one you are 
talking about.  



[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna on the side of a water tower

2007-01-28 Thread Dave VanHorn
However, if that is all you can get, then go for it. I have seen guys 
mount a Rohn 25 type tower on the platform where the railing is, mount 
the antenna on top of the tower section(s) and then the top of the 
antenna will see over the top of the water tower.

Problem is, there's a fire repeater on the top, and they want us on 
the side, specificially NOT above the side.

I'm just looking for a way to predict the pattern(s) so I can plug 
that into RM, and see if it's worth spending a bucket of money to 
change to this site.




Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need Tait800 UHF Slimline Documentation Programming

2007-01-28 Thread Ed Yoho
Paul Metzger wrote:

It is a T800 Series 1 Slimline which requires the PROMs to be  
programmed. I need documentation, software, and to find out what  
hardware (exact models) I will need to acquire in order to program  
the proms, including cables.

All it has is a single rack panel with a T855-20 Receiver, T856-20  
Exciter/Amplifier and a terminal strip attached. It has a date on it  
of October 1996.
I need documentation in order to find out how to interface it to a  
homebrew controller, which will then tie into an AOR Digital Voice  
modem.

I hope to make it into a repeater for the Digital Voice Amateur Radio  
Association.

Any help will be much appreciated !

Thanks !

Paul Metzger
KQ6EH
  

Paul,

Unless the frequency you are planning to use is a multiple of 100KHz, 
the Tait Software wont work in southern California (SCRRBA area) as it 
cannot generate anything except 12.5 or 25 KHz channels and we use 20KHz 
channels. You will need to find an EPROM eraser and programmer that can 
program the EPROMS within your units.
The formulas for generating the hex values required are (hopefully this 
will be readable once posted):

 WORD1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8
 REG M  M  M  A  A  R  R  R
 BIT L   0  2  6  0  4  0  4  8
 BIT M   1  5  9  3  6  3  7  10
 |  |  |  |  |  |  |  | M   A
 CH #|  |  |  |  |  |  |  |TX FREF=200KHz
  0 08 0E 0A 0E 00 0A 00 00698  14   446.860 TX USING 10 KHZ STEPS
  1 08 0E 0A 00 01 0A 00 00698  16   446.880 TX USING 10 KHZ STEPS

 RX FREF=6.4MHz
  0 00 0B 09 06 00 00 04 01620  06   441.860 RX USING 10 KHZ STEPS
  1 0C 0A 09 08 00 00 04 01620  08   441.880 RX USING 10 KHZ STEPS


TX FREQ(MHz) = M * 0.64 + A * 0.01
RX FREQ(MHz) = M * 0.64 + A * 0.01 + 45

Here is the pinout for a stock 855rx and 856tx:
pin 855 856
1   line out 1  line in 1
2   line out 2  line in 2
3   line out 3  line in 3
4   line out 4  line in 4
5   RSSITX Enable
6   Audio 1 Audio 2
7   Audio 2 Audio 1
8   Speaker CTCSS
9   +13V+13V
10  +13V+13V
11  Gate/COS outOpto-key +
12  COR 1   Opto-key -
13  COR 2   TX key / PTT
14  Ground  Ground
15  Ground  Ground

You will need to locate a manual for the T855  T856 as there are many 
possible internal configurations possible due to multiple internal 
jumpers. If anyone has the manuals in PDF form, I do not know of them.

Ed Yoho
WA6RQD





[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2 meter repeater

2007-01-28 Thread Lyle Schultz
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
wrote:

 Tell us how much money you expect to spend and the group can tell 
you what 
 you may be able to get for that amount.

Chuck - I'll try to give you some details and cost.

2@ Icom F-121, cables, setup and tuned New - $ 750.

1@ Repeater Controller NHRC 3+   $ 200.

1set 4 tube - Tel-wave used Duplexer - $ 850.

1 @ 2 meter dipole stick $ 75.

Tech charges to re-tune Telewave Duplexer - $ 175.

65' LMR400 - antenna mast - gable end mount - Lighting arrestor, 
ground 4@ rods, clamps and ground conductor # 4 bare. Misc. $ 450.

That totals about $ 2,500. for mostly new gear.

Note: the total cost is over 4 times the cost of the repeater - which 
is what most people get hung up on.  If all the gear isn't of good 
quality and compatible your results will be poor.  When setting up a 
2 meter repeater the actual repeater and good quality properly tuned 
duplexer make or break the system.  The cheap duplexers from the far 
east don't get the job done.  If your need is for an inexpensive 
repeater I suggest you look in to the .70 centimeter equipment as it 
can be done for a third the cost of a well equipped and setup 2 meter 
rig

Good Luck
EasyLyle
K4tg0  WQCM810



[Repeater-Builder] Wanted Mastr II Crystals Tx 145.43 Rx 144.83

2007-01-28 Thread daver1956
Looking for the above.

Thanks 

Dave



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 2 meter repeater

2007-01-28 Thread Chuck Kelsey
I wasn't the one looking, but the guy that was now has the info you posted. 
The original poster simply said he was looking for a repeater, cheap, then 
gave no other details of what he was really looking for.

Chuck
WB2EDV




- Original Message - 
From: Lyle Schultz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 8:56 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 2 meter repeater


 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

 Tell us how much money you expect to spend and the group can tell
 you what
 you may be able to get for that amount.

 Chuck - I'll try to give you some details and cost.

 2@ Icom F-121, cables, setup and tuned New - $ 750.

 1@ Repeater Controller NHRC 3+   $ 200.

 1set 4 tube - Tel-wave used Duplexer - $ 850.

 1 @ 2 meter dipole stick $ 75.

 Tech charges to re-tune Telewave Duplexer - $ 175.

 65' LMR400 - antenna mast - gable end mount - Lighting arrestor,
 ground 4@ rods, clamps and ground conductor # 4 bare. Misc. $ 450.

 That totals about $ 2,500. for mostly new gear.

 Note: the total cost is over 4 times the cost of the repeater - which
 is what most people get hung up on.  If all the gear isn't of good
 quality and compatible your results will be poor.  When setting up a
 2 meter repeater the actual repeater and good quality properly tuned
 duplexer make or break the system.  The cheap duplexers from the far
 east don't get the job done.  If your need is for an inexpensive
 repeater I suggest you look in to the .70 centimeter equipment as it
 can be done for a third the cost of a well equipped and setup 2 meter
 rig

 Good Luck
 EasyLyle
 K4tg0  WQCM810






 Yahoo! Groups Links



 



Re: [Repeater-Builder] Link-Comm - Micor carrier squelch timing (was GE squelch)

2007-01-28 Thread Kevin Custer

Thank you...  (this is very interesting to me)

Kevin Custer

Allan Overcast wrote:
I will see if I can perform that test on Monday AM and post the 
results.  BTW, the typical propogation delay through all the 
controllers is less that 5mS, so pretty fast.
 
Allan Overcast KF7FW

Link Communications, Inc.
www.link-comm.com http://www.link-comm.com


*/Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:

Bob, et al,
Bob wrote:  FWIW, I never use pin 10 at all;  
Kevin wrote:  I try to use that pin when I can, and prefer it over the open emitter shunt switches.
Incidentally, the Link-Comm board uses the 2.2 uF cap / pin 10 combination to drive the COS output buffer...  FWIW  

Bob wrote:  Really!  I noticed some decay problems with an RLC-MOT we have on 
an SCom 7k.  I've always attributed it to COS line propagation delay in the 
controller, but perhaps the 2.2 µF cap is the major culprit.  We solved the problem 
by using the onboard audio gating, which I see uses pins 6  7 of the Micor 
squelch IC.


Maybe we can ask Link-Comm to do a timing test on their unit and
then change the 2.2 uF capacitor on pin 10 to something else and
see if it changes the attack/decay of the COS action?

Steve or Allan  - you out there?

Kevin Custer