Re: [Repeater-Builder] RE: Wavetek 3000
There is also a wavetek service monitor group on yahoo if you need any futher information on yr 3000 Thank You, Ian Wells, Kerinvale Comaudio, 361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715 Ph 0749922449 or 0409159932 or 0749922574 www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood tk-370
Hi guys .Would anyone know where we can replacement antenna parts for the Kenwood tk-370. I am chasing the sma-f antenna socket in the top of the radio and also a antenna but seem to be having trouble finding a supplier or replacement parts Thank You, Ian Wells, Kerinvale Comaudio, 361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715 Ph 0749922449 or 0409159932 or 0749922574 www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
[Repeater-Builder] Andrew connectors needed
Greetings, I am doing a temporary pre-winter install of our club's UHF machine at my home QTH. I just got the 8-bay Sinclair down from where it was, so I now need a couple of Andrew connectors, for 1/2 inch heliax, N-MALE. Ideally, I'd like the L4TNM-PS Positive Stop type, but the F4NMV2 style will also work. I did look on ebay, but the sellers will not ship to Canada. Any one have a couple of these connectors hanging around? You can contact me off list: va2ir at securenet dot net Thanks Ian VA2IR
[Repeater-Builder] GE MASTR II Base Stations
I have a single cabinet containing (2) GE MASTR II VHF 100W Base Stations. 1 is currently tuned to 155.205, the other is 155.340. I aqquired these during a dispacth center upgrade. Im looking to sell for $500. I live in Middle Tennessee. Thanks, Robby
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RE: Wavetek 3000
Thanks Ian for your input. Did sign up for the Website. Wesley - Original Message - From: kerinvale To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 8:58 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] RE: Wavetek 3000 There is also a wavetek service monitor group on yahoo if you need any futher information on yr 3000 Thank You, Ian Wells, Kerinvale Comaudio, 361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715 Ph 0749922449 or 0409159932 or 0749922574 www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
[Repeater-Builder] MT1000 low band, display radio, to 6 meter info
Anyone who wants to do my MT1000 conversion on the MT1000 display radio here is some updated info. Below is the link to my original doc http://www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/genesis/mt1000-6m.html I received 3 display MT1000 radios yesterday, these are 42-50 MHz stock radios, and I did the conversion on these to 6 meters. The original hardware mod still stands, however to program these display radios simply use regular MT1000 software and read the radio first. If you use the P200Lb software you will only have 6 channels and no display flip etc so remember, use RSS MT1000.exe for display radios and things will work fine. The RSS will display everything correctly for these display radios, all you need to do is add or delete channels as needed when you set up the default codeplug with 49 Mhz initial frequencies according to the DOC above. Turn all options on that you desire, and set your codeplug up just like in my conversion doc, don't forget your scan set up and also enable the display flip and battery saver etc. Next do the hexediting for actual 6 meter frequencies and program this hex edited codeplug in the radio. To summarize, follow the document but for the display radios don't use the p200LB.exe software, this apparently is only for the 6 channel low band radios both MT1000 and p200 of which I only had at the time of the original document. Additionally; If you do have one of these display radio you may want to try programming and hex editing first before doing any VCO rework. Out of 3 display MT1000's converted last night, one needed both the TX and Rx VCO mods to lock both tx rx above 53 MHz, a 2nd one only needed the TX VCO mod and the 3rd one didn't require any VCO mods at all. The 3rd radio that didn't need any VCO hardware mod works 42 to 54 MHz on receive and 42 to 53 MHz on transmit with simply hexediting and programming, nothing else. Now the antenna is a different story but that's typical in a low band HT. When I have the time I'll add my changes to the original document for display radios. Some people have e-mail ans sent me mail letters asking if I can do the hardware mods and I'm presently trying to get my hands an a solder sucker/desoldering station which speeds the VCO rework considerably. If I find what I'm looking for then I'll come up with a answer on doing some conversions. Mike WB8VLC/7
RE [Repeater-Builder] Andrew connectors needed
Greetings, I am doing a temporary pre-winter install of our club's UHF machine at my home QTH. I just got the 8-bay Sinclair down from where it was, so I now need a couple of Andrew connectors, for 1/2 inch heliax, N-MALE. Ideally, I'd like the L4TNM-PS Positive Stop type, but the F4NMV2 style will also work. I did look on ebay, but the sellers will not ship to Canada. snip Ian VA2IR Have you searched the following site Ian? John http://www.surplussales.com/index.html
Re: RE [Repeater-Builder] Andrew connectors needed
Nope but I will now. Thanks! Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry -Original Message- From: JG giel...@westnet.com.au Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 08:10:55 To: Repeater groupRepeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE [Repeater-Builder] Andrew connectors needed Greetings, I am doing a temporary pre-winter install of our club's UHF machine at my home QTH. I just got the 8-bay Sinclair down from where it was, so I now need a couple of Andrew connectors, for 1/2 inch heliax, N-MALE. Ideally, I'd like the L4TNM-PS Positive Stop type, but the F4NMV2 style will also work. I did look on ebay, but the sellers will not ship to Canada. snip Ian VA2IR Have you searched the following site Ian? John http://www.surplussales.com/index.html
[Repeater-Builder] off topic
I have a kenwood tk-372G I need to program. Have cable and software. Can't get radio into programming mode. Not sure if I'm pushing the right buttons when I turn it on. I also read there may be a diode that needs to be removed. Can any one steer me in the right direction? Thanks, Mike KA2NDW
RE: [Repeater-Builder] help icom f121s
-Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Quinones Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 8:15 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] help icom f121s need help i have icom f121s for repeater use i have every thing setup use cat controller but i turn on the rx exo to on and turn off the delay timer off but when i check the horn cable i does not do nothing stays to ground no changes of voltage as cor or cos can any one help me please. Carlos, I am not an expert but I don't see that you have received a reply to your request, so let me offer a suggestion. I am using F121S's and F221S's in a repeater application. I believe you have the RX EXO set correctly. I believe that the horn output will either be ground or floating. You will need to use a pull up resister or voltage divider resisters to obtain a COS logic state. Hopefully one of the experts will come onboard and offer a more authoritive answer to your question. If not, let me know. I can suggest someone who will help. Best good luck to you. John AF4PD This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RE: Wavetek 3000
At 10/19/2009 21:42, you wrote: Hi Wesley I have had some success doing a wholesale replacement of all the small Tantalum Capacitors (values like between 1-100 uF) in the module. And some times in some in other modules as they are part of the loop. Replacement capacitors used to be available at Radio Shack but I found them on eBay for cheap. If you buy tantalums from an unknown source, it may be worth testing them before installing in the 3000. I bought a dozen or so of 4.7 µF 25 V tantalums at Dayton a few years ago. Turned out every one of them was bad: they all started to draw lots of DC current at between 5 to 8 volts. Yes I had the polarity correct. A small protoboard comes in handy for this sort of test; you can plug a whole batch in, wired in parallel, test them simultaneously. Bob NO6B
RE: [Repeater-Builder] help icom f121s
thank you John i will be happy for your help no one neve reply my request the controller that i am going to use is the Cat controler but have no luck on it. Carlos wp4mxb On Tue, 2009-10-20 at 21:10 -0400, John Transue wrote: -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Quinones Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 8:15 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] help icom f121s need help i have icom f121s for repeater use i have every thing setup use cat controller but i turn on the rx exo to on and turn off the delay timer off but when i check the horn cable i does not do nothing stays to ground no changes of voltage as cor or cos can any one help me please. Carlos, I am not an expert but I don't see that you have received a reply to your request, so let me offer a suggestion. I am using F121S's and F221S's in a repeater application. I believe you have the RX EXO set correctly. I believe that the horn output will either be ground or floating. You will need to use a pull up resister or voltage divider resisters to obtain a COS logic state. Hopefully one of the experts will come onboard and offer a more authoritive answer to your question. If not, let me know. I can suggest someone who will help. Best good luck to you. John AF4PD This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Wavetek 3000
I don't remember having a problem finding an extender, It was something we already had about. BTW need to wick all the older solder off those boards completely , and replace with new, gold solder if you got it. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Wesley Bazell wesley...@... wrote: Thanks, but I have the Manual.Went into it more deeply today. The Problem. I do not have an extender board to go into the A1 mixer board. make Scope measurements. did find 2 questionable solder joints, which I soldered(shaking hands), but that did not repair it.Still looking hoping. Wesley- Original Message - From: darylynn d To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 9:25 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Wavetek 3000 This is a bit off topic, But I have an extra Service Manual for the 3000 SSI Wavetech. The plastic Binder is flakey, but the pages are good. Please leave msg at kb5...@... if you have interest. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Wesley Bazell wesley011@ wrote: Good Question Joe Wesley - Original Message - From: Joe k1ike_mail@ To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 5:56 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wavetek 3000 Instead of soldering the damaged IC to the board, I wonder if you could buy headers that plug into the IC board socket and solder the IC to the header? Joe DCFluX wrote: As I undersstand it wavetek put some kinda anti oxidizing goo on the IC pins. But it had the side effect of disolving the IC pins after quite some time. So the solusion was to replace the ICs or trying to solder the IC to the board to make good contact with the pins. Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron Power Supply Alert
Hello Eric, Would you kindly provide me with the Tech support email address you used for Astron. Ive been un able to get a good address. Thank you in advance! Gary
Re: [Repeater-Builder] kendecom repeaters on 220
On Oct 18, 2009, at 11:28 AM, Jed Barton wrote: Hey guys, I'm working with a group and have given them several suggestions for repeaters on 220 including hipro, ge, moto, etc. One thing i don't know much about is the kendecom, and thought i would ask since they want to know. As far as relyability, good, bad? Reliability: Looking inside ours, at the quality of the components, I would have given it only a few years before it fried. Surprisingly it's been up for way over 10 years now. Maybe 20? Originally installed when novices were given 220 MHz voice priveleges, hard linked to 2m, so they could talk to the higher license classes. We keep meaning to replace it with a converted MASTR II, but it hasn't forced us to make it a priority, if you catch my drift. Complaints match Kevin and other's comments: Squelch action, crappy. Seriously crappy. Way too much hysteresis means you have to crank it way up to get any kind of decent squelch action. RX is relatively deaf, but workable with a pre-amp. (220 is so darn QUIET, it's hard NOT to hear signals... so it works, but it could work a LOT better.) Like almost everyone else, the club's main techs at the time, ripped out/bypassed the internal controller. It was so long ago, I wasn't even a Ham back then (prior to 1991 for sure!) and did a custom interface to an S-Com controller. Sounds like they'll do it for you at the factory these days. The really annoying one for us has been this: TX frequency stability is very poor. We have to put it back on TX frequency on a regular basis (annually at least). The potentiometer quality used for this adjustment is abysmal and gets worse to fiddle with every year it gets older. Another one of those dilemmas... mess with it and put in a multi-turn pot, or just replace the whole thing with a GE?... (We just had our first neighbor pair on 220 utilized in the area, and the owner is someone I know. He noted that we're off frequency in his direction (this time) a little bit, and I promised him I'd go tweak the thing again at first opportunity.) Oh... almost forgot about this one: Getting the cover off and working on the thing in a rack-mount environment is a complete PITA. Put a rack shelf under it for when you need to get at the guts. Have a place to put all the little screws (or ditch half of them and never put them back) and make your cabling long enough to turn the thing upside down on the shelf if you have to troubleshoot the underside of any of the circuit boards. Ours took a lightning hit -- again, more than ten years ago -- which toasted some of the metering circuitry, making the pretty little meters on the front, somewhat useless in some modes of the switches. Unbelievable that it survived, it has ball lightning marks at the screw holes in the front in the blue paint, to this day. Oh, by the way... lesson learned... scrape the pretty blue paint off around those holes and get down to bare metal before shooting your rack screws into it. Waste of pretty blue paint, since you want your rack rails properly grounded to the repeater's case anyway. Four or five years ago, we found a dried out capacitor in the audio chain that caused it to sound horrible. (Perhaps that's why Bob can always tell them, and other people rave about their audio... again, low quality components...) It was a chore to follow the audio chain through the thing (upside down) with a scope to find the stage that was dead. Once found, and replaced, it popped back to the usual good quality audio we were used to hearing out of it.) My plan has always just been to replace it... everything else in the network other than the 1.2 GHz analog machine, is GE MASTR II's... no reason not to continue the standardization process eventually, when other more pressing issues are completed. Working on the MASTR II's is just easier. It'd make a good basement/backyard repeater. On a mountain, in tight working quarters in a rack, it's a pain, and the build quality just isn't what we like to use. The MASTR II shelves are MADE to drop them open and work on them on- site... etc. Why fight with it? It ever dies, it's not getting repaired to go back to the hill. That's probably enough. I won't bash them completely, but I wouldn't put another into service. Especially not at their very proud of this blue box NEW pricing. Ouch. -- Nate Duehr, WY0X n...@natetech.com http://facebook.com/denverpilot http://twitter.com/denverpilot
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood tk-370
Easy enough question with an easy answer: http://www.kenwoodparts.com/ cheers, s. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, kerinvale kerin...@... wrote: Hi guys .Would anyone know where we can replacement antenna parts for the Kenwood tk-370. I am chasing the sma-f antenna socket in the top of the radio and also a antenna but seem to be having trouble finding a supplier or replacement parts  Thank You, Ian Wells, Kerinvale Comaudio, 361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715 Ph 0749922449 or 0409159932 or 0749922574 www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron Power Supply Alert
What is wrong with the power supply? Here is the contact info for Astron. 9 Autry, Irvine, CA 92618 949-458-7277 . FAX:949-458-0826 E-MAIL: astroncorporat...@yahoo.com WAB - Original Message - From: Gary ki4...@yahoo.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 20, 2009 11:29 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron Power Supply Alert Hello Eric, Would you kindly provide me with the Tech support email address you used for Astron. Ive been un able to get a good address. Thank you in advance! Gary Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: off topic
Hi Mike, If you're talking about the UHF portable, you shouldn't have to press anything to put it into programming mode (My recalling from memory). There are a small number of Kenwood Portable Radios that do not easily program with after-market cables. I can think of two or three off hand like the the tk-2170 tk-3170 to start off with a few examples. The tk-372 might also be one of them. So your cable might not be right... and the way to be sure is to try an original Kenwood KPG-22 cable if you can. Kenwood is proud (in price) of their programming cables but they do work with all their radios (that I've tried so far). Be sure to check your computers programming port (serial and now USB available) per your running the DOS or Windows Software. If you can't find an El'Cheapo After Market Cable I can sell you an original Kenwood or if you're near to Sacramento, CA. I'll reprogram your radio for free. Cheers, skipp skipp025 at yahoo.com www.radiowrench.com Authorized Kenwood Sales and Service Mike DeWaele mdewa...@... wrote: I have a kenwood tk-372G I need to program. Have cable and software. Can't get radio into programming mode. Not sure if I'm pushing the right buttons when I turn it on. I also read there may be a diode that needs to be removed. Can any one steer me in the right direction? Thanks, Mike KA2NDW
