[Repeater-Builder] Re: maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

2006-04-10 Thread Dave VanHorn

A quickie on how the maggiore squelch circuit works. (when/if it 
decides to.)

The five transistor chip is the heart of it, but not all of it.
The first transistor is just a linear amplifier. 
The second is biased class C, and interacts a bit with the third.
The third is a little interesting, I'll come back to it.
The fourth provides COR output, which is faster than the audio mute.
The fifth mutes the speaker locally with a short RC delay, and also 
feeds through the third to provide some hysteresis.

But it's more fun than that!

The circuit's performance is very sensitive to the IF bandwidth!
On this 220 machine I'm looking at, I can get .170uV 12db sinad, but 
if I tune it to that, the squelch won't ever close.

If I tune to about .2uV, then I can get the squelch to close at 
about .16

I have a 2M machine here to play with also, and it behaves the same 
although I would have called it a working machine as it's squelch 
actually closes somewhere nearer to optimum IF tuning.

The interesting thing is that the second transistor being class c 
derives it's bias from the noise signal ampilitude. If you don't 
have enough noise getting in (small cap values in the base caps?) 
then you can't bias this transistor on.   The third transistor pulls 
base bias away if the audio squelch (NOT THE COR!) is active.

And a final thank you should go to the psychotic weasel who drew the 
schematic in such a manner as to preserve neither the functionality 
of the circuit, or the pinout of the chip..  I get offended by 
schematics that preserve the chip pinout and sacrifice meaning, but 
this one managed to sacrifice both of them in order to gain an 
artful wad of electric spaghetti.









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

2006-04-09 Thread skipp025
The first tasks on a list of things to do/check: 

If the squelch pot isn't a sealed unit, spray some Caig Labs 
DeOxit treatment into the body and rotate the shaft around 
a few times, then reset the squelch level and see what happens 
over time. Many of the Caig Labs Spray would probably work 
very well. Get the ProGold G5 if the DeOxit isn't available.

If the squelch dies/stops working - pop a scope or multi 
meter on the receiver squelch circuit to see the rectified 
noise - dc level - threshold values all appear to be within 
spec. 

  

One other option (I'd probably skip over if I caught the circuit 
not working with test equipment handy) is to use a hair dryer 
(heat gun) and/or cool-freeze spray to try and tell if the 
trouble is temp related. 

cheers,
skipp 

 Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  
 Our club 220 machine has been giving a lot of trouble with the squelch.
 
 The problem is that the squelch works fine for a while, then quits.
 By that I mean that it will not squelch even with no input signal at 
 all.  No real clues, and the schematic is not very helpful.
 
 Any ideas?









 
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