Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-08 Thread Kevin Custer
wb6dgn wrote:
 There is a process I use to easily see which stage is 
  bad.  Reply if you need more help.

 Maybe you'd consider posting it here?  Always looking for better ways to do 
 things.
 Tom DGN

Verify you have drive to the PA by looking to see how much is coming out 
of it or any filters that follow.  Then take the watt meter and put it 
on the antenna connector and terminate the meter with a suitable load.  
I use a Bird 43 with matching 100 watt dummy load.  I usually start with 
a 10 or 25 watt slug no matter the size of the PA.

If the correct drive is coming from the exciter, make sure the correct 
voltages are present on the stages of the PA.  PNP RF transistors are 
used in the MICOR VHF PA, so put your thinking cap on upside down. 

If you have a hand-held radio, tune it to the frequency of the 
transmitter, and remove the rubber duck and set it off to the side - out 
of arms reach.

Key the defective radio and touch the base of the first transistor in 
the PA with the metal blade of the Motorola MICOR tuning tool.  Watch 
the S-Meter on the hand-held or listen for quieting.  On my Yaesu FT530, 
I normally get about 1/2 scale S-Meter reading on the base of the first 
stage.  Keeping the radio keyed, touch the collector - the S-Meter 
reading should be considerably stronger and quieter.  If not, you might 
have found your problem.

Anyway, continue doing this down through the stages until you find the 
bad one - moving the hand-held radio back away as need to add loss.  
Once you find the stage that has no apparent gain, take a small 
capacitor (a few hundred pF) and trim the leads so you can use it to 
bridge across the base to the collector.  The leads only need to be long 
enough to be able to go across the transistor to couple energy at the 
base to the collector.  If the stage is bad, you will see the PA make 
*some* power  - there will be some indication on the watt meter.  The 
transistor, when bridged shows output power, is likely bad and needs 
replaced.  This method can generically to troubleshoot other makes and 
models of PA's. 

DISCLAIMER:  I have worked on some ill engineered equipment that will go 
spurious and blow up if you touch one of the RF transistor conductors 
with some metallic object.  This has never happened to me with a MICOR 
or MASTR II PA, but has with Spectrum and some other junk.  Do This At 
Your Own Risk!!

In the MICOR, the first or second stages are usually the culprit, unless 
something has taken out the final stages, which should only be replaced 
as a whole, with matched units, if one or more are found to be bad.

Kevin Custer





Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread wd8chl
On 8/2/2010 11:15 PM, skipp025 wrote:

 ... The entire project including obtaining the parts from
 recycled radios takes me about 4.5 hours with beverage of
 choice and some decent AM Talk-Radio playing at low back-ground
 volume level (no, not the right-wing whack job stuff).

As opposed to the left-wing whack job stuff? ;cD

 Once you've had to do this type of Motorola PA repair, you
 more fully appreciate trying to keep the amplifier happy
 and cool.

Boy, ain't that the truth!!!

My only other comment-it's not absolutely mandatory, but if you can get 
silver solder, use it.


Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread Kevin Custer
Bill wrote:
 Apparently no one here got the moto memo on working with giant 
 heat-sinks. First you only need a 30-40 watt iron to work on them as moto 
 did at the factory  The secret is.. raising  the heat-sink to 
 about 3-400 degrees while you are working on what needs to be done.  PS 
 .. don't touch it with fingers or arms.  This technique also lowers 
 possibility of cracking the ceramics. I usually lay out everything that has 
 to be done in advance with extra planning.  Hey, I didn't say it was going to 
 be quick...
 .
 Bill
 Atlanta

The amplifier in question is a MSR2000 VHF, not  UHF - no ceramics to 
worry about - no oven required.

Kevin


RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread Kevin King
 

 

I use the mass of an old martial-aid size soldering iron, which 
are often passed over by uninformed souls shopping at Ham Flea 
Markets. 

s. 

 

Skipp, you kill me!

 

They used those in sheet metal shops and doing rain gutters. Got one and it
is amazing on touch and ping off it comes!. The solder iron anyway..

 

 





RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-03 Thread Kevin King
Hmmm my comments were lost.

 

Oh well I just commented you kill me Skipp.

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kevin King
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 2:54 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty
amp. How?

 

  

 

 

I use the mass of an old martial-aid size soldering iron, which 
are often passed over by uninformed souls shopping at Ham Flea 
Markets. 

s. 





Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dissasembly of msr 2000 continuous duty amp. How?

2010-08-02 Thread Gordon Cooper
   Maybe a little Black Powder might be needed?

Gordon ZL1KL
Tauranga N.Z.