Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[Joe]

Look here for a demo of the mousetrap.

Joe

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jezQKOl5q-w

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[ka9qjg]

 

 

Chuck is correct ,  But if anyone is really interested in this Just Goggle
it and also U-Tube it is all the WWW 

 

Enough said on this 

 

Happy Repeater Building 

 

Don KA9QJG 

  

There was no attachment - it was a text description.

 

Chuck

WB2EDV

 

 

 

 

Anyone got a pic of this mousetrap? The attachment didn't go through.

Thanks

 

Peter

 

 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[Chuck Kelsey]

There was no attachment - it was a text description.

Chuck
WB2EDV



  - Original Message - 
  From: Peter Summerhawk 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 11:36 PM
  Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight





  Anyone got a pic of this mousetrap? The attachment didn't go through.

  Thanks



  Peter



  -Original Message-
  From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kf0m
  Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 9:03 PM
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight





  Here is the ultimate repeater site mouse trap from the repeater builder 
archives in 2003. I was really surprised no one else had trotted it out yet. I 
also remember someone posting a picture to show that it really worked.

  John Lock
  kf0m at arrl.net 

  --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Shanon Lee Herron" 
   wrote:
  > Hi All,
  > 
  > A neighbor told me this one MANY years ago. Since then I have 
  seen it in
  > a sports magazine. Works great for the cabin up in northern 
  Michigan that
  > remains empty most of the time. NO SMELL The funny thing 
  about mice,
  > one will go to see what all the commotion is all about and trap 
  himself too.
  > 
  > Material list:
  > 
  > One 5 Gallon Plastic bucket
  > About two feet of 1/2" thin wall conduit
  > Unopened can of tomato soup or similar soup with no chunks or 
  solids in
  > it, pick a favorite
  > Package of Saltines Crackers
  > Jar of peanut butter
  > One Gallon of Automotive Antifreeze - undiluted
  > Electrical tape
  > A "Plank" of wood, about a two feet long, a piece of 1x2 or 1x4 
  will do
  > fine.
  > One drywall or #6 sheet metal type screw, one inch long will do.
  > One old pair of barbeque tongs to leave with the trap.
  > 
  > Tools needed:
  > 
  > 7/8" hole saw and drill motor to fit
  > 1/8" drill bit
  > Hack saw or pipe cutter
  > Screwdriver to fit the screw
  > Small Sauce Pan, bowl and spoon
  > Old can opener for liquids, the pointed type, (the other end of a 
  beer cap
  > remover)
  > 
  > 
  > Start with the bucket. Drill 7/8" holes across from one another 
  near the
  > top, maybe an inch or so down.
  > 
  > Slide the conduit across the top, through the two holes.
  > 
  > Mark it and cut it so that it protrudes one inch on each side. 
  The tape
  > will hold it in place later.
  > 
  > Open the soup using the old fashioned can opener. Pour the soup 
  in the
  > pan, remove the label and rinse out the can.
  > 
  > Start the soup to heat on the stove.
  > 
  > Using the same hole saw you used to cut the holes in the bucket 
  drill a
  > hole in the center of the top and bottom of the soup can.
  > 
  > Slide the conduit into one hole of the bucket, slip the can onto 
  the
  > conduit, slide the conduit out the other hole.
  > 
  > Wrap tape around the conduit outside the bucket on each end to 
  hold it
  > into place.
  > 
  > Do the same on each side of the soup can to hold it in the center 
  of the
  > bucket.
  > 
  > Drill a 1/8" hole in the side of the bucket at the top, across 
  from the
  > center of the soup can.
  > 
  > Run the screw through the side of the bucket and into the "Plank" 
  so that
  > the plank touches the top of the bucket and then the other end 
  rests on the
  > floor. Like a ramp. Without the screw the mice will knock it down.
  > 
  > Fill the bucket with about 3" of Antifreeze.
  > 
  > Smear peanut butter on the outside of the soup can.
  > 
  > Your done. Go eat soup and crackers.
  > 
  > The mice will walk the plank, jump to get to the peanut butter, 
  roll off
  > the can as it spins, ka-ploop, they drown, perfectly preserved, 
  don't even
  > get stiff, no smell, antifreeze don't evaporate or freeze. This is 
  where
  > the tongs come in. I have gotten as many as 13 in the bucket in 
  just two
  > weeks! Funny thing, the white fur on them turns the color of the
  > antifreeze.
  > 
  > Good luck. Shanon KA8SPW> 




  

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[Peter Summerhawk]

Anyone got a pic of this mousetrap? The attachment didn't go through.

Thanks

 

Peter

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kf0m
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 9:03 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

 

  

Here is the ultimate repeater site mouse trap from the repeater builder
archives in 2003. I was really surprised no one else had trotted it out yet.
I also remember someone posting a picture to show that it really worked.

John Lock
kf0m at arrl.net 

--- In Repeater-Builder@ <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Shanon Lee Herron" 
 wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
> A neighbor told me this one MANY years ago. Since then I have 
seen it in
> a sports magazine. Works great for the cabin up in northern 
Michigan that
> remains empty most of the time. NO SMELL The funny thing 
about mice,
> one will go to see what all the commotion is all about and trap 
himself too.
> 
> Material list:
> 
> One 5 Gallon Plastic bucket
> About two feet of 1/2" thin wall conduit
> Unopened can of tomato soup or similar soup with no chunks or 
solids in
> it, pick a favorite
> Package of Saltines Crackers
> Jar of peanut butter
> One Gallon of Automotive Antifreeze - undiluted
> Electrical tape
> A "Plank" of wood, about a two feet long, a piece of 1x2 or 1x4 
will do
> fine.
> One drywall or #6 sheet metal type screw, one inch long will do.
> One old pair of barbeque tongs to leave with the trap.
> 
> Tools needed:
> 
> 7/8" hole saw and drill motor to fit
> 1/8" drill bit
> Hack saw or pipe cutter
> Screwdriver to fit the screw
> Small Sauce Pan, bowl and spoon
> Old can opener for liquids, the pointed type, (the other end of a 
beer cap
> remover)
> 
> 
> Start with the bucket. Drill 7/8" holes across from one another 
near the
> top, maybe an inch or so down.
> 
> Slide the conduit across the top, through the two holes.
> 
> Mark it and cut it so that it protrudes one inch on each side. 
The tape
> will hold it in place later.
> 
> Open the soup using the old fashioned can opener. Pour the soup 
in the
> pan, remove the label and rinse out the can.
> 
> Start the soup to heat on the stove.
> 
> Using the same hole saw you used to cut the holes in the bucket 
drill a
> hole in the center of the top and bottom of the soup can.
> 
> Slide the conduit into one hole of the bucket, slip the can onto 
the
> conduit, slide the conduit out the other hole.
> 
> Wrap tape around the conduit outside the bucket on each end to 
hold it
> into place.
> 
> Do the same on each side of the soup can to hold it in the center 
of the
> bucket.
> 
> Drill a 1/8" hole in the side of the bucket at the top, across 
from the
> center of the soup can.
> 
> Run the screw through the side of the bucket and into the "Plank" 
so that
> the plank touches the top of the bucket and then the other end 
rests on the
> floor. Like a ramp. Without the screw the mice will knock it down.
> 
> Fill the bucket with about 3" of Antifreeze.
> 
> Smear peanut butter on the outside of the soup can.
> 
> Your done. Go eat soup and crackers.
> 
> The mice will walk the plank, jump to get to the peanut butter, 
roll off
> the can as it spins, ka-ploop, they drown, perfectly preserved, 
don't even
> get stiff, no smell, antifreeze don't evaporate or freeze. This is 
where
> the tongs come in. I have gotten as many as 13 in the bucket in 
just two
> weeks! Funny thing, the white fur on them turns the color of the
> antifreeze.
> 
> Good luck. Shanon KA8SPW> 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[kf0m]

Here is the ultimate repeater site mouse trap from the repeater builder 
archives in 2003.  I was really surprised no one else had trotted it out yet.  
I also remember someone posting a picture to show that it really worked.


John Lock
kf0m at arrl.net 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Shanon Lee Herron" 
 wrote:
> Hi All,
> 
>   A neighbor told me this one MANY years ago.  Since then I have 
seen it in
> a sports magazine.  Works great for the cabin up in northern 
Michigan that
> remains empty most of the time.  NO SMELL  The funny thing 
about mice,
> one will go to see what all the commotion is all about and trap 
himself too.
> 
> Material list:
> 
>One 5 Gallon Plastic bucket
>About two feet of 1/2" thin wall conduit
>Unopened can of tomato soup or similar soup with no chunks or 
solids in
> it, pick a favorite
>Package of Saltines Crackers
>Jar of peanut butter
>One Gallon of Automotive Antifreeze - undiluted
>Electrical tape
>A "Plank" of wood, about a two feet long, a piece of 1x2 or 1x4 
will do
> fine.
>One drywall or #6 sheet metal type screw, one inch long will do.
>One old pair of barbeque tongs to leave with the trap.
> 
> Tools needed:
> 
>   7/8" hole saw and drill motor to fit
>   1/8" drill bit
>   Hack saw or pipe cutter
>   Screwdriver to fit the screw
>   Small Sauce Pan, bowl and spoon
>   Old can opener for liquids, the pointed type, (the other end of a 
beer cap
> remover)
> 
> 
>   Start with the bucket.  Drill 7/8" holes across from one another 
near the
> top, maybe an inch or so down.
> 
>   Slide the conduit across the top, through the two holes.
> 
>   Mark it and cut it so that it protrudes one inch on each side.  
The tape
> will hold it in place later.
> 
>   Open the soup using the old fashioned can opener.  Pour the soup 
in the
> pan, remove the label and rinse out the can.
> 
>   Start the soup to heat on the stove.
> 
>   Using the same hole saw you used to cut the holes in the bucket 
drill a
> hole in the center of the top and bottom of the soup can.
> 
>   Slide the conduit into one hole of the bucket, slip the can onto 
the
> conduit, slide the conduit out the other hole.
> 
>   Wrap tape around the conduit outside the bucket on each end to 
hold it
> into place.
> 
>   Do the same on each side of the soup can to hold it in the center 
of the
> bucket.
> 
>   Drill a 1/8" hole in the side of the bucket at the top, across 
from the
> center of the soup can.
> 
>   Run the screw through the side of the bucket and into the "Plank" 
so that
> the plank touches the top of the bucket and then the other end 
rests on the
> floor.  Like a ramp.  Without the screw the mice will knock it down.
> 
>   Fill the bucket with about 3" of Antifreeze.
> 
>   Smear peanut butter on the outside of the soup can.
> 
>   Your done.  Go eat soup and crackers.
> 
>   The mice will walk the plank, jump to get to the peanut butter, 
roll off
> the can as it spins, ka-ploop, they drown, perfectly preserved, 
don't even
> get stiff, no smell, antifreeze don't evaporate or freeze.  This is 
where
> the tongs come in.  I have gotten as many as 13 in the bucket in 
just two
> weeks!  Funny thing, the white fur on them turns the color of the
> antifreeze.
> 
> Good luck.  Shanon KA8SPW> 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[Chris Robinson]

Afternoon Wes, please send my regards to chuck and Kacie and crew, I havent
been to an ARES in placer in a few years now. I hope the team is doing well,
and I may be in to visit late this year.

 On topic now, the go to the local machine shop and ask them for the floor
sweepings after a good day of work. they usually will have bunches of razor
sharp steal wool that has been cut from the products they build, such as
what come off the lathe.

 I have also used mangled screen vent for the attic or basement and shoved
it inot an opening. it dont restrict air flow but isnt going to be pushed or
eatin out of the way either.

 Chris
 KF6NFW

On Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 1:19 PM, ae6zm  wrote:

>
>
> Just a comment on the SS scrubbing pads - I use them for soldering iron
> cleaners (stuff it in a small can) and for paint/varnish removal, rust
> removal, etc. I buy mine at the dollar store, 3 or 4 on a card for, you
> guessed it, a dollar.
>
> Wes
> AE6ZM & VE7ELE
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> AEC Placer County ARES
> Lincoln, CA
>
>  
>

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[Vernon Densler]

First throw 3 pythons in there.  Leave them for a few weeks.  I would say
leave them forever, but when it gets cold they will try to warm themselves
on the repeater and if they get stuck they will cause a big mess.  So since
you probably won't be able to find the pythons you have to thrown in a
couple of mongooses.  Or is it mongeese?Anyway to get rid of the
mongooses you have to put a hawk in there.  When the hawk is done eating the
mongooses, hopefully you can just open the door and he will fly out, because
getting a mountain lion in there might be a little tough.

Of course if that is too complicated you can go to Home Depot and get some
glue traps and box traps.  With the traps you don't have to worry about what
corner they decided to die in and stink up the site as you do with poison.  

Actually that is another option if you really want to use poison you can
just put the band Poison in there and have them start playing.  That is sure
to drive anything living out of the site.  I know the bass player so I can
get you a quote if you want.  I am sure they aren't charging too much to
play anymore.

Vern

KI4ONW

-- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 , "Jed Barton"  wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
> I am sure many of you have been through this before.
> The evil mice decided to waunder in to my repeater sight. Up until now
they
> avoided my repeater, but when I went up there, I was less than pleased.
> They didn't chew any wires thank god, but they walked across the top of
the
> icom rp4020, and left some presents if you know what I mean.
> I need some input, what's the best way to clean it up, anything in
> particular?
> All the covers were on, so I don't think they got inside, but haven't
pulled
> the cover off yet.
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jed
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Getting mice out of a repeater sight

[Joe]

An old trick was to leave a Brillo pad around, or better yet use it to 
stuff the holes and cracks.  The theory was that the mice would eat the 
fat based soap that was in the pad and the steel pieces would kill 
them.  This goes back many years, so I don't know if Brillo pads are 
still made the same way as they used to be.

Joe