RE: SD who ruined this
A Take off the wing and it will be just fine. I actually approve of the wheels on that one... Understated but clean. Looks like a great opportunity for CSX hunters. -J Southern California 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (dead again) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Mulz Poor CSX http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=45455 84549category=6210 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD who ruined this
Nahh... I don't like the neon lights either, but that kinda crap is easy to remove. I don't sweat little crap like that. You're saying he raped it. Let me put it this way: if he changed the paint to copper, added an aztec warrior or some kind of striping on the sides, threw on some spinners or tri-spoke wheels, Put erroneous badging on it, and some other permenant and hideous things, THEN I could understand your sentiments. As it stands, the only permenant thing to tackle is the wing, and judging from the design, themost you'd have to do is fill in the bolt holes after removing it. Otherwise the other crap is a no-brainer, and the car is basically clean beyond that. Look twice, think twice ;) I still say it's a good opportunity, and would take half a day, some filer, and a paint can to return it to its Carroll-intended appearance. If I didn't have too many cars, I'd want it. -J Southern California 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (dead again) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marc Medina And the neon lights under it? That kind of thing is what prompted me to almost steal back my 70 Six Pack 4 Speed Superbird (kept a set of keys when I sold it) 21 years ago. The guy who bought it jacked it up a foot and covered the quarter panels with decals and even pulled the 15 rallye wheels and replaced then with 14 Centerlines. Just cause he had the money to buy it didn't mean he deserved to own it! Whoever raped that CSX should have MORON tattooed on his forehead - IN BIG RED LETTERS! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Article about Omni
No don't be so hard on yourself, not everyone knows everything ;) Transaxle if I understand correctly just means a sidewayz tranny. As far as manual goes, a manual valve body is an automatic transmission component, that sets up the gear selector so that you have to manually move it from 1 to 2 to 3 (in this case the Chrysler transaxles are 3-speed+reverse). It's still an automatic transmission because it doesn't require you to push in the clutch between shifts, but unlike a normal automatic transmission, you have to move the gear selector from one, then to two, then to three, and then when you come to a stop, back again to one. In the case of the Chrysler manual valvebody, it reverses the shift pattern of the gear selector. The normal selector is, from front to back, P-N-R-3-2-1, the manual valvebody reverses the numbered section like so: P-N-R-1-2-3, so you start out in 1, right under neutral. As you select each higher gear, you pull back on the selector one click. I've never seen one in person but the idea sounds kinda cool. I've been told that to manually shift a full automatic transmission/transaxle is not good for it over time, so the manual valve body is better. -J Southern California 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of JOE LANETT As far as the transmission (whoops, we mean transaxle) goes, a full manual shift valve body with a stock turbo torque converter ends at the wheels with a final axle-ratio of 3.07. Quote from the Mopar Muscle Magazine Website. Maybe I am just an idiot. But how can you have a car without a transmission? Is it really called a manual transaxel? Also, how can you have a manual transaxel that has a torque converter? I thought that my '88 Dodge Dayton Shelby-Z's have 555 transmissions, and because they are both manual transmissions they have clutches. Someone please explain that to me like I was a five year old. Also I do agree that they were really not complimenting the car, they were being very sarcastic. I also agree that they just do not like the fact that our cars can beat them and be fuel economical. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Energy Suspension offers to buy PolyBushings.com
John Spiva, one of our most valuable vendors, and arguably a regular comedian :P BTW For those who haven't bought some of his products, they're amazing. It's no wonder he fooled me this morning! -J Southern California 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD E bay cheap turbo mopars
All these cheap turbocars, and all the turbo parts to get them up to par, are always over on the east coast. The one real complaint I've ever had about turbo Chryslers is that the west coast is seriously deficient on them. -J Southern California 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Shocking problem with new rebuild
OK guys, I got the car on the road for all of a hundred miles, if not less (somewhere around mid 90's), and there was bearing noise, loud noise. The mechanic took it apart. What he found was that all four rod bearings are crushed... Worn through to the copper on the top bearing half. He indicated to me this is usually showing abnormal load on the rod. He expressed concerns about massive detonation or some other kind of problem. The thing is, it wasn't seeing any boost for most of that time, because the clip came off the wastegate arm and it was swinging wide open. He wanted to ask you all about the *static* compression. He said it's 150 by his measurements and that he thought that seemed a bit high. He's also concerend that the problem that put it in the rebuild in the first place was related. The FIRST build, back in 2000, I added forged pistons from Forward Motion. Less than 1,500 miles after it was built up, a rod bearing crushed. It's sat in storage since then until late last year when this guy took it apart and rebuilt it with a new crank. The rods were fine, all lines up properly, all mic'd in fine, and everything was balanced as a complete assembly. And yet he says all the bearings are crushed, and he says that one rod bearing looks identical to the other. He's pressing me to try to remember the circumstances back in 2000 when it first gave out. He's wondering why this happened. Obviously something is wrong. He is also wondering about the air/fuel ratio. I have a SunPro gauge that we were thinking about putting on. Needless to say I am rather depressed about it all. So if any of you have some useful advice, I'm very ready to accept it. -J Southern California 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II - dead again after less than 100 miles :( ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD New Member Bio
I was there this last time, and one of the regulars had a freshly completed TC DOHC project Charger. It wasn't even tuned completely and it leapt when he bliped the throttle. Good times there every Thursdays, good peeps, most of them been around for over a decade, showing up to the same meeting spot every month. Like Chris says, it's worth checking out. -J Southern California 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 9:52 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; shelby-dodge@sdml.org Subject: Re: SD New Member Bio Check out the applebees in the La Harbe area on the first thurdsay of each month.. Thats where the Shelby Dodge socal folks meet up.. maybe someone can give a little more detail? I drove down there a few times and had fun.. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Sorting out more issues with this Daytona T2
OK, I'm gonna buy a sending unit this weekend for this whacky oil gauge reading. Years ago when this car was running before, I had installed a 1G DSM BOV onto it. Everything worked, it blew off and sounded good. I can't remember but I think I had it T'd off of the main vac source on the front of the intake manifold. Now, when I install this valve and start up the car, the valve partially opens and draws in air. The check engine light comes on. Did the spring somehow weaken? Shouldn't it be shut under idle and cruise vacuum until you close the throttle plate between shifts and see hard vacuum? With the BOV pipe section removed and a straight piece of pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body, everything works right and no CE light. ??? -J 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Trying to make a manual boost controller that works
I made a manual boost controller. No it's not a Grainger based one. I wanted to adjust without any twisting of the line. I still have my G-valve, because it was a gift from Gus long ago. But I wanted to try this one. Anyways here is the page: http://www.dodge-srt4.com/howto/diyboost.html Well I went to Home Depot and bought all the same parts. The ball came out of a Lazy Susan hinge. Seats nicely in the barb end. Anyways, I didn't use teflon tape, but if I understand correctly, it shouldn't matter. It seems airtight for one, and for two, until the ball is pushed by enough PSI to defeat the spring, the actuator canister won't see any boost. As long as the spring is tensioned right. Well no matter how deep I set the bolt to, I still see no more than 7psi. I find that interesting since I was told by a turbo shop that the actuator canister's spring is 7psi rated. So this thing is passing through the boost pressure to the actuator can obviously... Or I mean *I think* heh. So I wonder if the spring is too weak...??? Whatcha think? Right now there is a hose coming off of the barb on the stock T3's compressor OUTlet, and that hose T-junctions to I thin the cruise or brake booster or something, and the other T to this MBC. I thin the T is also some kind of mild restrictor or something but it obviously passes boost through to the wastegate canister. -J 1989 Dodge Daytona SRT-4 (hah I wish!) er I mean Shelby Turbo II ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Re: Heres one for ya..
Interesting that it fits on to it, but I have to say, it isn't conducive to the rest of the Omni's lines. I stil think the Omni looks its meanest in GHLS trim. Carroll knew what he was doing when he OK'd the design. Just my $0.02 -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo 1994 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L V8 (don't hate me) -Original Message- Makes me want to see what an omni would look like with a charger nose http://www.pbase.com/underdog/turbo_horpage=1 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD ======== Poll ========
Yeah no doubt, Johnny I took a good half hour to think about it, and I can't think of anything that is in or near your scope. OH. Maybe one thing. I have a 1G DSM, a FWD version. The AWD versions had IRS, but the FWD versions had solid axle like ours is in the rear. I saw one of the guys had made an adjustable rear solid axle... He has a sort of threaded end I believe on the arm that connects the axle to the underside... Anyways I don't remember what he said about it or its effectiveness, but if there's something you can do for our rear suspension to improve it (since it is a weak spot) that would be awesome. -Original Message- I was hoping for multiple choice.. hehe.. :) On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 15:32:37 +, Johnny Spiva [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My question for all of you, what would YOU like to see made? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD My thoughts on the SDAC
Oh and an entire ream of paper costs less than $10. A stamp, a printout, and the ink for one copy is certainly less than $5. WAY less. $30 should get me a hard metal foil club decal with reliefing in a nice bronze or something. Just some more thoughts. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo 1994 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L V8 (don't hate me) -Original Message- --- Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Certainly the published newsletter could be made for pennies. Balogna! What about postage? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE: Fel Pro Gaskets
I dunno but I've been around this list since the early 90's and for over tenyears now I've heard nothing but problems regarding Fel-Pros and our 2.2/2.5 engines. It's pretty much been ingrained in my Shelby Dodge head now to stay away from Fel-Pro for four cyllinders. But it's true what is said, they are surprizingly the choice of V8 rebuilders nationwide. So they must justnot work well for 4's or perhaps even any inlines. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo 1994 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L V8 (don't hate me) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lou Renzo I haven't had the need to replace a head gasket yet on my Turbo Dodge but I've used nothing but Fel Pro's on my 340 Duster for years. Not one single problem. Why would they work so well on V8s and so poorly on turbo cars? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Code 13, why???
OMG THIS IS EXACTLY MY PROBLEM TO THE TEE! Voltage for MAP tests normal with key on and engine off. Voltage at idle tests normal. Voltage at 15 of vacuumm from a hand pump is normal too 1.1-1.2 Baro solenoid voltage is constant! I just bought a new Baro solenoid this weekend, I will try to put it on tomorrow. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo 1994 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L V8 (don't hate me) -Original Message- Brian Schulteis Strange problem here... My Daytona is popping up an error 13. Map sensor problem. Seems to be BARO related, as I put a meter on the baro solenoid, and it never dips. Seems like the problem happens right when the computer would be checking the baro. Start it up, run for a minute, maybe less, and then the computer triggers the error and the light comes on. I know I should get a code 37 not a 13 with a baro problem, but the map sensor is reading just fine. I can backprobe the pins on the SMEC connector. The map sensor voltage is exactly what it should be. And the baro voltage never drops like it should when the computer checks, not even when first turning on the key. Suggestions? Or just tell me like it is.. It's a smoked transistor on the SMEC and that SMEC is dead unless I can miraculously figure out which one it is. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Code 13, why???
I don't think that will work for me, I have the MAP sensor on a T with the FPR...?? OK the four-way is vac-tight, we've checked it with the hand pump, so What should be on the 4-way? I know one has to go to the Baro, one to the FPR, one to the ...?? Maybe mine is hooked up wrong too??? I hate this I really want to drive this thing!!! -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo 1994 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L V8 (don't hate me) -Original Message- Solved it, stupid mistake. Future note.. When you plumb the wastegate directly into the manifold without a restrictor, find another line besides the one that goes to the MAP.. The wastegate can was dampening the signal enough that the computer was having issues with it. I just had to do some more troubleshooting. :) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD I'm back, and I have a favor to ask...
Heh I remember you, from about ten years back when SDML was putting out four or five digests on a busy day :) I've done my share of luking years, too. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Chris Papademetrious wrote: I've already gotten some emails from some of you old-timers who actually remember me. It's nice to be back. :) Since I haven't actually touched my Dodge for years, I expect I'll be mostly quiet as I just lurk and learn what's new these days. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD New Kid On The Block
Heh yeah that's the one... Too bad it couldn't work for airflow metered cars. You can't route the piping into the tube after the airflow meter and before turbo, the turbo's comp inlet will suck it out. Oh well consider it a Shelby Dodge exclusive ;) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Here is the link describing the d-valve. Hope this helps. http://www.shelbycsx.com/csx321/buildup/dvalve.htm ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD FW: MAP sensor code 13 issue
I had a cold ambush me on Friday night, so I'll see what I can do tonight after work. We didn't check the voltage at the time because I forgot to print the normal voltage readings and what wire to test that Brian Schulteis posted. The mechanic is going to test voltage on the MAP this morning, including 15 vac voltage, as Brian explained to do. What should the Baro wires each test at, and which one is ground? (I didn't look to see if they were red and black or some oddball striped pair instead). What is the best way to test the baro voltage? Car on? Car off? Thanks all. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD New Kid On The Block
He's going to give me the Shelby Charger, I told him to sell it. Give it to someone that can really put a lot of time into it, He just said no, I'm getting it. Well, gang my question is, If I get this car which all it needs is a paint job. The seats look a little worn. But the engine sounds great. I don't know where to start on the engine or what upgrades. So you Mopar family tell me what to put in this car. ( I don't want to race it) just want it a lot faster..THANKS Radiator/intercooler combo, cut-out raiser, extra injector, 16psi. Or is that too mild for our cars? :P -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Strange suspicious device on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=33597; item=7950812928rd=1 They claim it works for our Daytonas. I say BS. What do you say? I can't even tell what the hell it is hehe. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
[no subject]
K peeps, code 13 is flashing. Mechanic says he has a direct manifold hose running to the MAP sensor. Car is bucking, throwing check engine (that's how I knew to check the code). How can we test the map sensor? Or is it hooked up right? I'm not able to be there, he doesn't have internet, and I'm trying to help him. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD FW: MAP sensor code 13 issue
Dave and the rest o' you all: Where is the hose typically or best located, anyways? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Has your mechanic got a scan tool? Most will let you read the MAP voltage while the car is running, that is the easiest way to check it out. Otherwise you can connect a volt meter to the sensor wire on the MAP connecter and check the output there. I'm guessing this is on your 89 Daytona? (the 88 and 89 SMECs seem most picky about the MAP signal). Have him check the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator for signs of fuel. I've fixed 4 code 13's on 88-89 in the last year or so and all were due to leaky fuel pressure regulators. Good Luck, Dave ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD RE:
Yes, it was removed and the engine rebuilt and put back in. All we did was pull the vacuum cluster off of the intake manifold, left all the hoses attached, and pulled the engine. The plastic tie that holds it all bundled is even still in place. We just reattached the big connection back to the manifold when we put back the engine. It looks like the short little premolded curvy hose is in place that connects the MAP sensor to what is likely the the baro read solenoid. I assume it uses this solenoid as a vent to atmosphere or something? I don't quite understand the baro read solenoid and what it's there for, but I do believe I remember that little hose was on it like that when the car was running normal before engine removal. As far as I know I've had no problems before the engine was pulled. All the hoses and wiring were left in place as I said, carefully laid aside when we pulled the engine. The mechanic has reviewed the hood vac decal too and it seems to jive with that as well. ??? This car ran fine tune-wise before we yanked the engine. I am having trouble even suspecting a bad sensor or FPR or whatnot. I really suspect something is jnust not hooked up right. ??? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] OK, first of all you need to have the baro read solenoid connected, not running straight from manifold vacuum to the sensor. Is this a new problem? Change any parts to make it come up lately? Map sensor supply hose comes off a Tee that feeds vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP sensor solenoid only. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD WTB: 89-91 Daytona Shelby/ES/IROC plastic front lip
Forgot to ask you all, how much should I expect to pay for this if I should find it locally at a junkyard? Man this sucks, I have the money to paint the car but can't do it without one of these front ground f/x lips. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (needs front lip) 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Hi all. Looking for a front lower lip for my '89 Daytona Shelby. This is the one for the last years of popups (it goes along the bottom of the front end with the two long, thin vents between the headlights). Gonna paint it but the one on mine is thrashed from crappy towtruck services. Any color ok but if someone has a red one that will be the shizzle of the year. How much including shipping to 91737 in California if any of you has one. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Installing a wastegate can in a GLHS
Mike, it's usuallt either a circular flat clip or a cotter pin, depending on if it's the original clip or not. Needle nose pliers have always worked for me in both cases. If this replacement part is the kind with the threaded adjustable end, then you have to twist it around. If you make the length exact, then the exhaust pressure will just push it open. You need some tension on it, generally acentimeter or so has yielded me 7-10 psi depending on the individual setup. The neato thing about one of these adjustable arms is that in essence it sets your minimum boost, and then your boost controller does the rest based on vac signal delay. On Gus' old website he has pics of his setup, where he took a stock wastegate arm and modified it to work the same way. He actually used it as a boost controller, since there's no fuss, and little if any spike (because there is no delay). The more tension you put on the canister (menaing the shorter you make the arm), the longer the wastegate stays shut and hence the higher your boost goes. Have fun. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (choosing body shop for paint) 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Platt Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 9:54 AM To: Shelby list Subject: SD Installing a wastegate can in a GLHS I am replacing my original worn out wastegate can with new one from FWD performance. Does anyone have any tricks to getting the arm disconnected from the turbo? It's a real tight squeeze back there and I had a tough enough time getting the can unbolted from block. Also, how do I preset the length of the replacement can? Thanks in advance ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD WTB: 89-91 Daytona Shelby/ES/IROC plastic front lip
Hi all. Looking for a front lower lip for my '89 Daytona Shelby. This is the one for the last years of popups (it goes along the bottom of the front end with the two long, thin vents between the headlights). Gonna paint it but the one on mine is thrashed from crappy towtruck services. Any color ok but if someone has a red one that will be the shizzle of the year. How much including shipping to 91737 in California if any of you has one. Thanks, -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Re: white valve cover
I'm not convinced that these are white. I've spent a good fraction of my life at junkyards, and have seen many a Turbo 1 and Turbo 1.5 (mitsu blowthrough) cars, and many of them had silver valvecovers in a wide variety of states from bone white to shiny spankin' new lookin' silver. So yeah no offense to anyone but I'm not convinced yet that there were ever originally white valvecovers installed on T1 cars. But since I don't have a time machine I can't say for sure hehe. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- group, well make it 5 vehicles that have white valve covers. i just pulled one off of an 89 turbo voyager. the van was loaded with all the bells and whistles. just a shame it was wreck or i would have put it back on the road. the bottom end was shot, but for a $1.00 how much do you complain? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Dyno Day in SoCal and IT'S ALIVE!!!
I guess I missed the info for registering a car for dyno day next month. My engine is RUNNING TODAY I heard it over the phone just now! It needs to be timed and the tank drained and filled with new gas, but otherwise she's up and running. Needs a new windshield too, and the guy will be out on Tuesday to do that. Then the following week it goes in to get a fresh coat of red paint. YHAW! Sent Pete (Pure Energi) from this list a money order for the replacement centercap, too. FINALLY, all coming together! Anyways I need contact info or whatever and prices etc so I can reserve a date for this event. I want to see what all that portwork does with 14psi evil grin ANYONE WHO REPLIES, DO ME A FAVOR: This is a work email, so can you carbon copy your replies to [EMAIL PROTECTED] ??? THANK YOU LOTS. Can't wait to see some of you there. P.S. JOHNNY SPIVA! YOUR MOUNTS RULE! -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005
Applebee's Restaurant (Next to Washington Mutual Bank) 1238 W Imperial Hwy La Habra CA 90631-6934 -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of CA - GLHS Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 7:11 AM To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Subject: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005 Subject: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005 I'll be heading down there myself. Anyone have an address of the meet up spot at the Applebee's? I don't know the area at all. Also, where's everyone staying in the way of hotels? Any good deals? Anyone got a couch? ;) The TU Dyno Tour (as subject line states) *Chris Pauluk Subject: Re: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005 In a message dated 1/17/2005 9:09:47 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Ok but one problem, the first Thursday of Feb. is actually the 3rd...??? So why are we saying the 10th? Is there something out of the ordinary happening on the second week of Feb.? snip It kinda sucks that the Tech Session is on Thursday. I'd like to see it, but, I'm sure I'll miss it because of work. It'd be a killer to work Thursday, drive 4 1/2 hours to Los Angeles from Fresno, attend the Tech Session, drive back 4 1/2 hours, and then go back to work on Friday. Of course, if you live in L.A., you've got it made. snip -- Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 17:44:52 -0600 From: Jason Arroyo Subject: RE: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005 Well, actually zero, and to be honest it's not a true rebuild. It was built by a guy named Jim down here, back in 2000. He used to have a shop in Upland called K.A.R. I think it's gone out of business now so I will just tell you he did me a number when my girlfriend asked him why he was taking so long. Got upset and a couple days later the engine was suddenly done. I didn't drive it much before I had bearing slap. He had me fooled into thinking it was the JE pistons I put in. Back then I didn't know hardly anything at all. Anyways by the time I realized what he did the shop was nowhere to be found. snip I remember back in 1995 when the SoCal SDAC had an event in Las Vegas. I remember seeing flyers in the goodie back for K.A.R. I also remember hearing praises about his work. Then, few years ago, one of my friends on this list told me about how long it took to get his car back, how his car was left outside, not in the shop as per agreement, etc. I'll leave him nameless unless he wants to speak for himself. Sounds like a pattern for this Jim fellow. With sloppy workmanship like that, it's no wonder that the shop shut down. snip FFW to '04, I know this good machine shop and general mechanic guy, very precise, takes forever but honest to a fault. Known him for a number of years now, in fact after SD's I got into DSM and he did a lot of work for me. So he took it (Shelby engine) apart. It only had 2,500 miles on it. So the JE pistons looked better than good. We just hit the bores a tad to unglaze them. We found out that the crankshaft was way overground, and Jim had shoehorned in a bearing. Jim charged me a lot to knife the crank, too. Whatever, live and learn right? Well John from this list sold me a replacement crank and it's been turned and installed with new bearings (after balancing of course). Jim - Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! Get yours free! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD white Valve cover?
It's funny, I never understood why ChryCo bothered to paint silver a cast aluminum valvecover. I stripped mine once on my old Pacifica T1 and it looked ten times better. It's not like it's gonna rust or tarnish. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Richard Paul Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2005 7:41 AM To: SDML Subject: SD white Valve cover? I looked at the picture. Just looks like what the silver valve covers turn into as the paint degrades/ fades. I have never seen a white valve cover on any TD. Silver in various states of looking bad. Red and black both wrinkle finish. That's it. The later cars doo seem to turn into that flat whitish silver color as they age. Early cars just seemed to peel off. Richard Paul ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005
Ok but one problem, the first Thursday of Feb. is actually the 3rd...??? So why are we saying the 10th? Is there something out of the ordinary happening on the second week of Feb.? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (engine installed! Just little parts now) 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: CA - GLHS Subject: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005 You mean this address? (Southern) California Shelby Dodge Automobile Meetings are on the 1st Thursday of every month at: Applebees Restaurant (Next to Washington Mutual Bank) 1238 W Imperial Hwy La Habra CA 90631-6934 Alan Jones has E-Mailed me concerning this event and I've talked to Chris Wright yesterday about this. Here, I thought driving down from Fresno to Los Angeles 5 times last year to attend some meetings was enough to last me a year. Now, you guys are tempting for another 9-hour round trip. lol Okay, 1 more trip. Don't want you guys to get tired of my presence. At least, till we get to The Mopars At The Strip Event in Las Vegas on April 1st. lol I'll probably miss the Thursday get-together, but, will probably see you guys on Friday Saturday. Ray snip Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 03:41:33 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: SD Southern California meeting Ill be heading down there myself.. Anyone have an address of the meetup spot at the applebees? I dont know the area at all.. Also wheres everyone stayin in the way of hotels? any good deals? anyone got a couch? ;) *Chris Pauluk Modesto CA 1984 Dodge Rampage T2 in the works.. - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD TII head, any difference?
How hard (if realistically possible at all) is it to have a non-crossdrilled head crossdrilled? If memory serves, my block is x-drilled but the head isn't (block is a 2.2 from an '89 T2, head is from an '89 T1). -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (engine installed! Just little bits now) 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Other than the cross drills for the cooling passages (when combined with block cross drills, they can drop deck temps by almost 100 degrees) Past that it's a standard 86 or later turbo cylinder head. After 88 they received the roller cam and followers, but that's interchangeable. Stefan Mullikin ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005
K just making sure. Sounds like I will be able to attend, althogh my Daytona won't be all that pretty, since I don't think I will be able to paint it in time. But who knows. Either way I will probably be there. The engine will still be fresh however, I'm going to try to put on as many miles as I can before that but these are third gear pulls on the dyno right? You guys thing I should go ahead and dyno it or should I just take more time to break the engine in? This guy builds them pretty cleanly And I would really like to see what the portwork has brought me. What do you all think? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (just needs a passenger side axle) 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 3:03 PM To: shelby-dodge@sdml.org Subject: Re: SD SoCal SDAC - TU Dyno Tour 2005 In a message dated 1/17/2005 9:09:47 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Ok but one problem, the first Thursday of Feb. is actually the 3rd...??? So why are we saying the 10th? Is there something out of the ordinary happening on the second week of Feb.? the TU Dyno Tour (as subject line states) *Chris Pauluk Modesto CA 84 T2 Ramlet ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Southern California meeting
I'm not sure because I haven't been there since '00 but I think it's at Applebee's in La Habra...??? Or is this some special annual shindig that they hold somewhere else? Either way, the engine is supposedly in the bay of my car now so if the guy gets moving on it, I could have a car in time. BTW Peter, I've got your MO for the CS centercap, I just haven't had the time this week. I promise to mail it to you next week tho. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (95% re-installed engine!!!) 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Schulteis Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:14 AM To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Subject: Re: SD Southern California meeting And I'll be driving down from the Seattle area. :) Probably won't be there for the meeting on the 10th. Didn't realize there was a meeting that early in the week or I'd have scheduled my vacation to start a bit sooner to make it to that. But there is a chance I'll be there. Where is the meeting and what time is it at? I'm leaving Seattle early on the 9th, so if it's in the evening on the 10th, I'll probably make it. :) I'll be up on the dyno Saturday getting my Daytona tuned to run 23psi. Should be a blast. :) -- Brian J. Schulteis Bremerton, Washington '85 Shelby Charger (resto project 25% done) '88 Chrysler Lebarron Convertible (J body) '88 Daytona Pacifica (Intercooled 2.5L daily driver) On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 15:24:06 +, Johnny Spiva [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am flying down and going to the Feb 10th meeting of the Southern California Shelby Club and the TU's Dyno Day. I look forward to seeing many of you, well, all of you. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE: WTB: Omni Charger Or Daytona
Hah.. Seeing as it's been instrumental in four home moves in two years for my friends, I have to agree there ;) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Russ W. Knize Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 1:08 PM To: Bill Brown Cc: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Subject: Re: SD RE: WTB: Omni Charger Or Daytona Yes, the Daytona is a pickup truck with a glass tonneau cover. Bill Brown said: Hey Adam All three are hatchbacks, that throws that deciding factor out the window. Omnis have cheaper interiors, but are lighter then Daytona's and looks are subjective. That is probably more the deciding factore unless stock performance is important. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD 16 CS Pumper cleanup choices, need advice
Same for chrome? No, no, chrome is easier themore surface you have :) These wheels are a shoe-in. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 3:53 PM To: Jason Arroyo; shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Subject: Re: SD 16 CS Pumper cleanup choices, need advice I'd go with the original silver/grey paint/powder coat. I've seen someones polished rims and the surface isn't perfect enough for that. Besides, it's overkill. There's just too much surface. Same goes for the chrome. Too much surface. As for the Wite on Red, don't do it. It will look too much like Santa Claus. LOL A guy that just bought my VNT had some 15 pumpers on his Shelby Daytona. He Glass bead blasted them and painted them. Very nice job. Looked factory correct. Although they were a darker grey. He used the 89 Shelby Ground FX color. -- Bob Doherty Coon Rapids, MN. 90 Daytona Shelby TI 89 Daytona Shelby TII 89 LeBaron GTC Convert TII 86 Shelby Charger TI 68 AMC AMX #5816 (Only Numbered Car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD 8-valve vs 16-valve
-Original Message- Chris Faulk wrote: Stephan is the only guy out there REALLY pushing the limits of both 8-valve or 16-valve setups. Unless there is some unknown person that is hiding and not revealing his stuff nobody even comes close. Now for NORMAL people that don't have the financial backing Stephane does...8-valve is holding it's own DANG well against the 16-valve cars. You can not argue this fact. Run whatcha brung...and be happy about it. I agree. Look at Donovan, that's why he never got around to that TIII project. The SOHC kept exceeding his expectations. I'm not even sure he doesn't still have ideas for making it even better. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD RE: 8v
I agree 100% with the speed costs quote. Regardless of whether I agree or not, I'm not sure the political commentary after the speed costs quote was appropriate for this list. Actually I'm quite certain it is not. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marc Medina Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2005 9:10 AM To: SDML Subject: Re: SD RE: 8v OLD saying: Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go? Thanks, Marc Medina The Constitution shall never be construed to authorize Congress to prevent the people of the United States, who are peaceable citizens, from keeping their own arms. -Samuel Adams, debates Proceedings in the Convention of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts ...the people have a right to keep and bear arms. -Patrick Henry and George Mason, Elliot The right of the people to keep and bear...arms shall not be infringed. A well regulated militia, composed of the people, trained to arms, is the best and most natural defense of a free country... -James Madison, I Annals of Congress (June 8, 1789). A militia, when properly formed, are in fact the people themselves...and include all men capable of bearing arms. -Richard Henry Lee, Additional Letters from the Federal Farmer (1788) We can't be so fixated on our desire to preserve the rights of ordinary Americans ... Bill Clinton (USA TODAY, 11 March 1993, page 2A) - Original Message - From: Pure Energi [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2005 8:24 AM Subject: SD RE: 8v I do not know the costs involved on going 16 valve, but I would imagine it would cost more than a ported 8 valve head. (If you want to do it right) I know one guy who is tired of hearing people who own turbododges are cheap. - -Bryan now u know two. i dont know the costs either but...i'd bet you 50 bucks on no knowledge that the 16v hybrid or t3 setup would run you more cake. you may get more HP but you WILL pay for it. plus if you cut corners to save moneytsk tsk.. plus you are fabbing so many parts... longevity?? PureEnergi 3 td's ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD WTB: 16 Pumper centercap OR complete wheel
I lost my centercap on one of my 16 pumper wheels :( I am looking or either another centercap or a complete 16 pumper wheel, condition not all that important. Please help me :( Thanks. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Detroit Free Press praises one of our cars.
WOW.. That's a really neato writeup, and I have to say for better or worse, they have it pinned, with the one exception of they did not mention the numbered plaque aspect of both the Omni and and the Buick GNX (which is something you numbered car owners are rightfully proud of). Still, they did a nice writeup and I think we're all greatful for the very positive press. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- This is from Auto news that I read everyday at work for industry news. I about fell over with their choice of cars. http://www.freep.com/money/autonews/collect-bar116e_20041216.htm ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD new member, well, kinda
K, no doubt you are a turbo Dodge guy ;) Always good to have more :D -J -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Curt Kitts Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 11:28 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD new member, well, kinda Just purchased a 1988 dodge daytona pacifica. Actually my daughter IS buying it. So i thought i would try this digest to help in her search for parts. The car is in pretty good shape. To pass Md. inspection, it will need a few things, but for now, i willl just read some posts for a while. If anyone has any frebies they are willing to get rid of, my daughter would appreciate it. In the past, i have owned a omni glh, several shelby chargers, and a 1987 Shelby Lancer #155. thanks Curt ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD problems and questions
-Original Message- 25psi on a 2bar map is BAD. Why do you say that? Did you put forged pistons in there? You can frag a forged piston real quick if you are boosting out of tune enough. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD problems and questions
That's not at all what I said. I said two things, one was to ask simply, why 25psi on a 2 bar was bad, and the other wasn't a question, I just pointed out that forged pistons can be destroyed easilly too. I never said anything about their ability to take abuse. I never said anything about them wearing out faster. All I said in so many words was that if you lean the heck out of it and then boost the heck out of it, you will melt it into slag. And I will answer my own question on the 2 bar thing. I don't really care about custom calibrations, if you know how to tune, and are patient, you can tune 25psi and even more on the stock 2bar, stock computer cal. It's been done. I just had hoped that by asking the question, it would beget the rationale behind it. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Schulteis Sent: Monday, December 13, 2004 4:46 PM Cc: SDML Subject: Re: SD problems and questions What's the point of a forged piston then? They wear out way faster, you say they can't take abuse.. What's the point??? On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 18:09:52 -0600, Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You can frag a forged piston real quick if you are boosting out of tune enough. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE: TD's defended in car and driver etc
-Original Message- Pure Energi [EMAIL PROTECTED] wwrote: talon pulled a 11.2 man i know where im headed when i let my td's go, interferance 4g63t or not im dsm bound. just my o2 sense - Haha I LEFT that world. Want to know why? Driveline, driveline, driveline! It go BOOM when you go any quicker than 13 secs on the 1/4. Only safe way to go is to Quaiffe it and that's very costly since you need a center AND a front diff unit. You want to hear my woes and trials (and even the good stuffs) about DSMs, I have an AWD and FWD, email me off list. To be honest, since I've gone into Nissan Z, I find my 280ZX Turbo is superior, easier to mod, more powerful, has a beefy rear end, a solid transmission, and quick as hell under a mere 12psi. It also handles as well or better than a DSM does (1 or 2G). And it's RWD which is great for either drag OR road course. Ok so I like my Daytona's looks better, but my bone stock 280ZX is much faster than my stock '89 Daytona Shelby was, without a doubt, and always will be , mod for mod. BUT The Chrysler turbocars are still my favorite and the reason why is because IMO they have been the EASIEST and CHEAPEST front wheel drive car to modify. They are very tolerant, durable platforms, and repairs are easy, parts are inexpensive (compared to those Civics you saw), and the electronics are way easy to fool for tuning needs. For all the aftermarket the other car platforms I've had may offer, they still seem to cost more in every aspect of performance modification, from electronics to hard parts both in and out of the engine. Turbo Dodge really IS a bang for the buck ride and some of them are even sporty looking (CSX-VNT, Mid-to-late G body). And then again, if sporty is not your interest, and sleeper is, you can share the same turbo drivetrain luvin' in a LeBaron or even an Omni! So you can have it your way! I guess turbo Chryslers are like Burger King, you've been able to have it your way for a long time now (even minivans!). I used to like that Chrysler turbocars were underdogs with no aftermarket and very uncharted territory as far as mainstream sport compact enthusiasts were concerned (this long before sport compact was even a term). But here they are now with vendors, borne from the very underdog enthusiasm I referred to. So now they aren't so uncharted. That's why I went into Nissan S12 (80's 200SX, 2.0L na and 1.8L turbo RWD cars), started up a club (http://www.club-s12.org), and in the past three years we've gone big and are still growing and learning. It's the new underdog. But these Shelby's are still the bang-for-buck winners by a longshot. Even when there was no vendor support, they're so simple, modding them was still very doable, whereas the S12 is a tricky critter with its airflow metered electronics and odd Nissan air idle setups. Turbo Dodges and Chryslers are a sure bet for a guy with little cash, minimal knowledge and experience, and a bit of driveway space to tinker on. S12 is not and requires more massaging. Sometimes I don't wanna massage the car, I want to toss something at it and just go. Turbo Dodge does that modwise and that's why, by and large, it's still my fav. Stay away from DSM unless you have deep pockets, and/or high credit limits, or a rich daddy. The 1G versions may be old, but they'll rape your funds just as quickly as any late-model Supra TT or decked out turbo Integra B18 will. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo (DSM) 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo (DSM) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1984 Datsun 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Shelby Dodges defended in Car and Driver!
Scott, I'm not sure I follow you about the Pebble Beach reference... Forgive my ignorance what's the inferrence they're making? -J (only 30 and not up all all car enthusiasm history) Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Of course they had a snide comment at the end that said something to the effect of They were interesting cars in their day, but I doubt we'll be seeing one at Pebble Beach. Interestingly, they also noted response to the new Charger design was overwhelmingly against. Scott 89 Daytona Shelby (Radiant Silver) 89 Daytona C/S competition package 92 Spirit R/T 01 Impala police interceptor 04 SRT-4 (Electric Blue) Walkersville, MD ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD FS: Dynojet Wideband Commander
Does this have the secondary wire to run to the ECU so you don't have to have two O2 sensors? Pics of the readout? Email me also privately with your cost. Thanks! -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bryan Lugert Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 8:27 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD FS: Dynojet Wideband Commander As before the price is too low to post in public. I will not place the order until I get 10 confirmed orders. I would prefer Money Orders/Personal Check on this round. Too many dang fees for you and me with Paypal! You have to let me know if you want a BLACK face, or a WHITE face. You can rest assured on the sales and service I provide, just ask around. Thanks and start sending me those e-mails! -Bryan Now what is this? Its the Dynojet Wideband Commander, full datalogging wideband that comes with everything needed. It has the commander box, Autometer made 2 1/16 gauge, software everthing needed. This is the real deal! I have seen ALOT of interest in this on the net lately. Why buy an AEM unit for the same price when all your gettin is a gauge? A gauge that doesnt datalog!? A gauge that DOESNT read between 10.0:1 to 18.0:1 This can datalog on the commander itself, or onto a laptop, records AFR, RPM, and TPS.. very key in tuning. You can even hook up an LED warning light, and output control! Includes: 1 Wide Band Commander Module 1 Bosch LSU 4 Wide Band Oxygen Sensor and bung 1 2 1/16th Electric Gauge Cable 1 Oxygen Sensor Cable 1 Power Cable 1 RPM Pickup Cable 1 Multi Function Cable 1 USB Software Cable 1 Oxygen Sensor Weld Boss Plug 1 Gauge Mounting Hardware Kit 1 CD-ROM Software Package 1 9 volt Power Adaptor 1 Expansion Port Connector Seal 1 USB Port Connector Seal 2 Velcro Strips 4 Wire T Taps 1 Alcohol Swab 3 Cable Ties 1 Warranty Registration Card 2 Dynojet Decals http://www.widebandcommander.com/ Click and save for the Install guide ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Caliper
Why not rebuild them? I think the kits are actually cheaper. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jim bauer Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 11:32 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD Caliper Needing to find a Right Rear Caliper for my 87 Dodge Daytona, 2.2 TII Its the 2 pin mounting. I have 2 of then here but both are froze up. Please reply with Price if you have one cheaper then the crooked parts store ! thx Jim. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!
slaps forehead omg :( :( :( poor truck! Somebody win that auction and restore it! Can't believe the guy ditched out the irreplaceable trangular side thingies on the front of the bed to put a SHELL on it :O :( :( :( -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 8:29 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD OUCH!!! _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=7938 207645 category=6763_ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=7938 207645category=6763) now that hurts! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD New starter died!!
Typical heat in hard driving should not damage an alternator, you need to take it back as a defective item. Seems more and more, alternator reman companies are building crap. Best bet is DO NOT buy a reman, but to have your original rebuilt at a local alternator shop. Local boys are more likely to care about their work and prevent returns than big companies who see it as an acceptable statistic. The local shops simply can't afford that statistic of failure and will do it right the first time. Plus their reputation is everything, and so they will correct the slim few that they do that fail, and usually without nonsense. Don't go the easy route. Go the right route. Have it rebuilt locally. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 2:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD New starter died!! Hi All Well I put in a new starter in the GLHS and headed to Las Vegas over the turkeyday weekend and don't you know the new starter died. I had my kids push start me at Kingman Az. It must have been the ride from Albuquerque that heated it up. So now I was thinking of getting a starter blanket for the new starter what do you all think? It must have been the heat that killed it. BTW the new (rebuilt) starter had a heat shield on it and there was no room to install the old one, plus the old one had kind of fell apart. Bad starter? or lots of heat which killed the starter? One more thing, the first starter lasted from 1986 +160,000 miles, the rebuilt starer 2 weeks and 400 miles. LOL Roy 86 GLHS #200 81 Fiat Spider LE #501 81 Fiat X 1/9 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD New starter died!!
Whooops, yes he did say starters, and I knew he did, but Monday fingers still typed out alternator lol, but really the rule applies the same, I've had storebought reman starters die not long after install. Either way they are electric motors that I will always get done down the street. Because like you, I can't afford the downtime either! :P Well nowadays I have a car or two to puttputt around in while I wait but still you are on the right track there. 'Bout the only thing I still get a reman from the store for is water pump, but then water pumps are pretty simple things. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: Mullikin, Stefan P [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 2:53 PM To: Jason Arroyo; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: SD New starter died!! Um, no offense intended, but he was talking about STARTERS, not ALTERNATORS... Though they both suffer from the similar fates due to the high underhood heat that our cars suffer from (especially those in warm climates that don't have hood vents, oy vey...) I agree that most parts store rebuilds are not worth the box they are shipped in. I internally inspect the ones I use simply because I can't afford the extra downtime a failed alternator or starter would create. Best Regards, Stefan Mullikin Portland, OR Co-Founder PNW-SDAC http://www.pnw-sdac.org 1980 Fiat X-1/9 1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 1987 Shelby CSX #106 1988 Shelby CSX-T #3 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jason Arroyo Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 2:45 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: SD New starter died!! Typical heat in hard driving should not damage an alternator, you need to take it back as a defective item. Seems more and more, alternator reman companies are building crap. Best bet is DO NOT buy a reman, but to have your original rebuilt at a local alternator shop. Local boys are more likely to care about their work and prevent returns than big companies who see it as an acceptable statistic. The local shops simply can't afford that statistic of failure and will do it right the first time. Plus their reputation is everything, and so they will correct the slim few that they do that fail, and usually without nonsense. Don't go the easy route. Go the right route. Have it rebuilt locally. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 2:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD New starter died!! Hi All Well I put in a new starter in the GLHS and headed to Las Vegas over the turkeyday weekend and don't you know the new starter died. I had my kids push start me at Kingman Az. It must have been the ride from Albuquerque that heated it up. So now I was thinking of getting a starter blanket for the new starter what do you all think? It must have been the heat that killed it. BTW the new (rebuilt) starter had a heat shield on it and there was no room to install the old one, plus the old one had kind of fell apart. Bad starter? or lots of heat which killed the starter? One more thing, the first starter lasted from 1986 +160,000 miles, the rebuilt starer 2 weeks and 400 miles. LOL Roy 86 GLHS #200 81 Fiat Spider LE #501 81 Fiat X 1/9 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Map Sensor Solenoid
This is sooo much a junkyard part you should be pulling for cheap or free. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steven Fong Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 1:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD Map Sensor Solenoid Hello: I am having difficulty finding a MAP sensor solenoid from the dealership, and I wante to check with the list to see if anyone has ordered this part before, and if anyone might know what the Chrysler part number for it is. The guy at the parts counter keeps showing me the dual vacuum solenoid and does not believe me when I tell him that it is not the right one. As a last resort, I'll pull the old one off and leave with the dealer if I have to. The car is in storage for the winter right now. Steve ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Koni Coil Overs
I'm not looking to have to do modificaiton to sleeves, I want something that bolts right in. Also I really want ones that use helper springs. So the Konis are just Koni tubes with sleeves welded on? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- The last batch of Koni's that Cindy ordered only came as adjustable coil overs. This was due in part I believe because it was done as a custom order and it was nearly the same price for the fully adjustable coilover as it would have been for direct replacement (like the original GLH-S) The consensus from the group buy was to go with the coil-overs. Now, any Koni strut can be modified by Koni or any of their rebuilders to include an adjustable spring perch. So yes you can get Koni's for other cars with the option you just get to wait for the fab shop to do it for you :) A number of people just order the generic coil over sleeves and springs and add them to their cars, this is what Ground Control sells along with their advice and expertise. I have a kit for a Honda that my older brother bought for his Neon form Ebay. Looks like it will work, I just need to bore the center of the sleeve out slightly as they don't quite fit over the G-body struts, cut the old spring perch off and ensure the upper spring perch will fit. Should gain some clearance for wider tires/wheels with less offset which should help the suspension geometry a little. Thankfully I now have access to a lathe to make those modification a little easier to do. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD FS-several cars and parts
Is this a two piece or one piece manifold on the T2 tophalf? How much? -J -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of william j gamalski Sent: Monday, November 08, 2004 4:54 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD FS-several cars and parts 1st car-88 new yorker turbo , with or without drive line 89 2.5 w 5k on it (had 16 miles on it out of crash test car when installed) full t2 upper end w20k on turbo 20k on rad innercooler asm(always w/distilled water),silicone hoses 7k on rebuilt trans w/2.6 mv drums(extra clutches), fresh mopar convertor,mp shift kit,chrome pan body- needs upper core support pulled, fenders and frt end installed w/86 vented hood needs frt - rear brake lines(cause of accident) 1 small rust hole in rt quarter,interior 8-9 out of 10 300without driveline,1500 w/driveline 2nd car-85 glh all interior-red slight stress tear in drivers seat (have a good one also) carpet is even almost mint -no wear 65k on driveline frame is junk,but the floor pan is great (explain this one) 2 saveable doors,hood, hatch,fenders,grd effects,bumpers,other peices 3rd 85 turismo any thing but sheet metal lmk bill 99 dak R/T,97 integra gsr (wifes), 93 acclaim, 91 spirit R/T, 90 spirit es, 88 newyorker 2.5 t2, 88 csx-t, 87 glhs #709,86 sc,85 sc , 85 sc mas, 85 glh road racer, 85 turismo 'ugly',3-79 little red exress's, ) Juno Platinum $9.95. Juno SpeedBand $14.95. Sign up for Juno Today at http://www.juno.com! Look for special offers at Best Buy stores. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE: tail lights
Oh no, not *this* again, eye of the beholder, bla bla, take it easy on him. Besides, the ones I've seen with this done to have put red round lenses in the inside of the housing so they still shine bright red. It's just a look like one's choice of rims or color scheme. If we're gonna nitpick that, we really are the car nazis the other platforms sometimes call us. I make quite an effort to prove the opposite. Don't put my good work to waste ;) You'd think some of you would be happy there's yet another thing we can do to our cars (that IS doable safely) without having to spend lots of $$$. I guess some of you prefer it remain an obscure car that gets marginal attention compared to the other sport compacts. Not me. Soon as I get mine back, I might even try it on second set of lights. That way I have the option to swap back and forth as I wish. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lou Renzo Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 6:30 AM To: shelby-dodge Subject: SD RE: tail lights Why would you want to make your Shelby-Dodge look like Eurotrash? Not to mention taking the chance of getting rear-ended cause they're not as visible? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's
Seeing as you want more out of it, I think you should reconsider finding an alternator shop. They can build it however you want it, and for the Chryslers it's usually reasonable if not comparable to an autoparts store replaement in price. Might as well do it right. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Carita Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:57 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD Alternator Options for 2.2 Turbo's I am throughly frustrated with Autozone and other parts stores and the quality of the rebuilt alternators they provide. My second Autozone alternator died about a mile from home last night. Luckily, I never returned the original core. The original alternator is 19 years old and only puts out about 13.3-13.5 volts. It is good enough for now, but it should be putting out ~14.5 volts. Short of finding a place to rebuild the orginal alternator. Is there a recommendation on where to look for a quality part? Ideally, I would like to upgrade the output as well, moving from 70 amps to 90 amps. Is there a Mopar part out there that will hook up to my T1 85 wiring harness and bracket? Are NAPA parts better quality? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE: tail lights
Marginal attention is a large part of the reason why we have marginal aftermarket. I don't own a Shelby Dodge because it is obscure, I own it because I think it's a good performance platform and *deserves* recognition. I think everyone here would agree that more aftermarket would be a good thing. Even with DeMoss and Donovan and Cindy, we still have to hodgepodge much of our tuning technique. These engines could do much better with proper tuning goodies. It's not the car's fault. We should be so lucky to gain the attention of new vendors who can provide us more options. I don't know about you, but I was here before Gary even started to tune his Daytona, before Cindy even had a SD, and when LRE and FM was all we had, bless them. Bless Gary and Cindy too, but more is a bad thing? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lou Renzo Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:03 AM To: shelby-dodge Subject: SD RE: tail lights I'm very happy being in the marginal attention group thank you. If I wanted to blend in with the sport compact group I wouldn't own a Shelby-Dodge ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE: tail lights
Yes, AND AND AND more awareness means more potential NEW enthusiasts/owners, which means more $$$ which makes Cindy, Gary, Mike, Johnny, and who knows who next, a REALITY, and also prevents the few mainstream aftermarket companies with parts for our cars from discontinuing those parts. Again I ask, is that bad? Or would we rather remain obscure? Off the beaten path, fine. But obscure? No, I welcome anything that heightens awareness of our cars in the overall sport compact community, especially since its changed from imports alone and now does indeed include domestic sport compacts. How else would have SRT-4 been possible? We are indeed finally getting some of what we wanted/needed for so many years: ATTENTION. But we can definitely use more. A lot of people are looking for sport compact alternatives to the H-cars and are beginning to explore domestic 80's turbocharged cars (hey, that's US!!!). But they still want to feel like they blong to the sport compact scene, or at least are in touch with some of the modern tuning techniques (which if we applied ourselves more WE could use, .i.e S-AFC's) If smaller details like silly taillight projects and N1-style mufflers attract more new owners, and keep them as customers and support for present and new vendors, then GREAT! :D And if you want to look OEM, that's ok too. Be aware that there are a good number of H-cars out there that look bone stock, running full turbo kits underhood. It goes both ways. But you can't take out the attention grabbing elements or you kill the interest. And we could use more interest ALWAYS. That's all I am saying. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Russ W. Knize Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 12:14 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: SD RE: tail lights In short, things have never been this good vendor-wise, even when MaMopar actually gave a hoot about 2.2/2.5. They moved on, but where there is demand, some one will eventually step in and supply. Just look at Johnny Spiva. How long were we filling our dead engine mounts with liquid nails, bolts, and other nasty hardware store things? I shudder when I remember the old days (late 90s). I think I am still waiting to receive parts from FM that I ordered back in '99 (they are a lot better now, BTW). ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD SL bites the dust.. whos keepin track?
Is a Shelby Charger with a log-style T1 and CS monogrammed front and rear seats a numbered car? If so I saw one in the boneyard, and if you want I can call them and get the vin. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of SDML Administrator Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 1:26 PM To: Shelby Dodge Mailing List Subject: Re: SD SL bites the dust.. whos keepin track? At 04:16 PM 10/31/2004 -0500, you wrote: Out of curiousity I got the vin # from the radiator support to see if anyone knew what # it was.. also sence all specific items were missing including the drivers side near windsheild vin number, beware of clones from California.. Shelby Lancer (red) 1B3BX68E6HN439789 Here's what I have: Shelby #: 650 Invoice #: 03-751 Shipped to: Unassigned Configuration: Auto/Leather Cheers. -- Bill Yohman - SDML Admin Team Member ICQ #6810106 AIM: shelbyregistry YAHOO!: shelbyregistry http://www.SDML.org/ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD dual engine handling
The torque converters of Two Automatics would do this. And no, you are right both engines need to be ON. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2004 8:00 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD dual engine handling Just thinking out loud here but wouldn't a dual engine car need to be set up perfectly to handle well? What I mean is, you may need to somehow link the two outputs together so that the transmission of power is equal to the front and rear. If the rear is pushing slightly harder in a turn than the front it would spin out. Think about a motorcycle with the front brake on slightly and full throttle in a turn. Also on a similar topic someone mentioned running one engine off in neutral. I don't claim to fully understand how auto transmissions work but isn't it hard on them to move at high speed with the engine off? When I drove a tow truck we had to pick up the drive wheels. I think it has something to do with the auto transmission's pump being driven by the engine. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD dual engine
Well, to get things back more onto Shelby Dodge turbos, I'll point out that the comments Stefan made below illustrate one of the larger advantages to a twin engine AWD setup. Each of the trannies was designed to be strong enough to handle the whole car on its own, so two means the whole setup is extremely durable. Moreso probably than a typical single engine AWD or even perhaps a RWD. Although I should point out that DSM AWD systems are indeed dragging successfully, in the 10's and I think one in the 9's. Of course they run Quaifes in the center and rear diffs, but these aren't the 6-speed setups, these are OEM drivelines with quaife diffs. And they work great. Without that, however, anything over 13 seconds, and you are playing russian roulette with your AWD system. Still, I think I am more and more intrerested in a 2E G-body. I have a FWD 1G DSM and I know it's been done on those, so I might want to look into that too. But Daytona first! :) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Most manufacturer's AWD systems aren't strong enough to handle drag launches, especially when the car is producing more power than it did stock. Quaiffe makes a 6-speed sequential AWD transaxle (for either transverse or north/south mounting) but that's at least $20K and its limited to about 400hp reliably ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD dual engine
I've seen pictures of one of these. I can imagine it spinning out on turns. No thanks :) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- I `ve seen the v8 conversion done and they`re actually was no cutting . Using the small rearend from a dakota or older duster.You have to make a custom driveshaft,and the transmission fit into the tunell w/o cutting.You have to fab up the motor mounts. You have to take out part of the rear suspension but the stock hubs and daytona parts can still be used even stock wheels can be left. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Re: dual engine
Hahaha! Evil little me already has a Laser, complete. Suspension and engine bay already there! ! (sound of the sawzall) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- You are planning to hack up a c/s AGS for this? What year is it? Whats wrong with it? Also, to anyone planning to undertake this project, I will soon have the front suspension from a daytona available. Baisically, it will be everything from the firewall up, minus fenders, hood, nose and rad support. EXACTLY what is needed for this project. weld it in and go ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD awd Daytona
Ahh, than kyou Rob, that adds to yet another reason to go twin engine AWD. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rob Wasn't one of the problems with the mini-van swap that the rear diff couldn't handle any real power? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD awd Daytona
Jeff, let's put this into perspective...with ONE engine at 150hp and an automatic transmission, you lose, say, 20 hp. Just a ballpark figure. Not accurate. But say 20. Leaving you with 130 to the wheels. Add your second 150hp engine and auto trans, and you put an ADDITIONAL 130whp in the rears. Leaving you with a total of 260. Now, a nicely tuned T2 engine (220hp) in front and same in back (220hp) leaves you with just under 400hp. Show me where this is a bad thing? Where is your disadvantage? Sounds more like an advantage to me, you don't have to massively tune either engine, which also means they are not as precarious, PLUS the added stability of independent drivetrains, PLUS IRS, PLUS front sized brakes automatically, PLUS AWD traction, PLUS the rear engine is as understood in terms of tuning as the original (front) engine since it is THE SAME, PLUS a WHOLE LOT LESS fabrication (from the looks of it) than minivan conversion. And BTW, AWD single engine setups lose power more then 2 wheel drive cars through the drivetrain. Just ask AWD DSM guys. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Chojnacki One disadvantage of two engines is power train loss. Even if two T1s making 160hp equals 320hp, you loose twice the power going through two transmissions. With 2 automatics, loss is around 40 to 50hp. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD dual engine
So now if we consider that you can weld in the entire inner engine bay into the rear of, say, a G body, you would then have ready-to-go shock towers which covers the basic suspension fab needs. All you do then is fashion joints for the A-arm. Hmmm do you use a front sway bar in the rear? But what about electronics? How does this work? Two computers? I would think so. Two alternators? I would imagine that too is a must. Two batteries? Hmmm well with two alternators I suppose a single battery would be more than charged, plus if I understand the basics correctly, the rear engine's alternator would only be supplying power for ignition, starter, and engine/autotrans electronics. So I suppose the question is can one battery crank over two engines at once (or can you just instead fire them up one at a time?) Just some details to consider in a twin-engine (2E) Daytona. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD dual engine
I'm thinking now that those aftermarket gauge cluster packages from Autometer and other companies (that includes tach and speedo, oil pressure, water, etc.) is a good deal, and would make mounting, say above the glove compartment and at an angle (say 35-45 degrees), a snap, and cover your secondset. Also many aftermarkets come with alarm features and you can set your alarm limit, so you might not even have to look at it until it beeps at you. Then along the top of the dash, to the right of the main cluster, could be the following six gauges: BOOST, EGT, O2, BOOST, EGT, O2. The first three (on the left) could be green bulb illuminated. The second set of three (on the right) could be red bulb illuminated (to indicate the rear). All can be mounted at 45 degrees towards driver. And even those in many cases can be had in alarm-equipped versions. I've seen it. Looks like this: 00 GRNRED If you use Dawes-style O2's, then you only need (four places, two green two red). You could even be clever and fab up a long narrow hood for them. Could even close up the front of the hood with a zig-zaggy piece of sheet aluminum with circles cut out for the gauges to slide into ( there's your easy mounting). Hell, three-gauge versions of THAT would be neato for even normal single engine cars. There's your gauge solution. Now as far as shifters and especially throttle go, , I guess we would need to know where to buy or have made custom length cables (the kind with the metal cable in the black slider sheath). Also we'd need to know just how long such a cable type can be before it won't slide back and forth so easy in its sheath, although I think we will discover that the lengths we need for this sort of endeavor will be within its ability. But who knows, we need to find that out. Stefan, I'm not really looking at NHRA. Especially since they hate sport compacts and anything four cyllinder anyways, and have only recently turned attention to them because they were upset at IDRC for stealing a piece of what they feel is THEIR [NHRA's] pie. I'm discussing a street toy, and show stopper, that gets doubletakes from passers-by at carshows (when both hatch and hood are popped and bragging for themselves), and on the road when it's scaring the living hell out of three passengers (and perhaps even the driver), taking canyons and long stretches with equal visciousness. So far, it sounds like you need the following: - Donor G-body for the engine bay - Second engine (of choice: T1a or T1b, or T2) and automatic transmission (two if you need one to swap for front manual, unless you prefer the combo) - G-body full suspension and swaybar - Frame shop to weld it together (and probably kill your bank account) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Solid beam wouldn't work. I'd just use a pair of steering arms that bolted to the K-member or lower control arm. Same thing they did on the Pontiac Fiero's and Fiat X-1/9's. Have you seen the inside of a multi-engine airplane cockpit? There is a standard set of gauges used for an engine. This is replicated for each engine. Makes the cockpit a busy mofo :) So, you'd want two tachs, two water temps, two oil pressure (wait Shadows didn't get those, grrr) two A/F, two EGT. You could set up the ignition to actuate both ignition switches simultaneously (on most cars its just a pushrod that runs down the steering column) or just wire a single ignition box to activate both computers. I don't think you'd need two alternators, but it does make it easier (no futzing with brackets or shorter belts) Mounting the battery behind the passenger seat might help with weight balance and wiring. I think running a single throttle and shifter would help keep the driver sane during the running and keep the car under a little better control. Perhaps adding an external pump for the transaxle would help alleviate any issues there. However, keep in mind that NHRA does not allow multi-engined vehicles to run at their events. This is one of the reasons multi-engined cars don't run at the GRM Challenge. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD my deciding factor
Gosh where to begin? LOL. The idea I envisioned conceals the rear engine 100%. Possibly even still allows some hatch space, but with reduced storage depth. It would kinda reselble an 80's camaro rear hatch area, including the rearmost lower area of one. As far as safety and legality goes, both will encounter issues, since the biggest safety issue is actually not fireproofing the rear engine, but ensuring the stability of rear suspension. Since in both cases you will have to significantly modify the stock setup to accommodate, either will be tricky for inspection. Certainly the idea of cutting out and grafting in an entire engine bay eliminates much of that problem, as it literally includes all the necessary mount points for front IRS, only now in the rear. You still do not know if a 3.3 can even be installed (without major engine bay modification) in the front of a Daytona. Now, considering the longevity of a twin-engine setup, you actually will have LONGER life and reliability, so long as at the least, the rear setup utilizes an automatic transmission. Because there is no way in hell you can synch up two manuals. But guess what? The minivan setup will ONLY come in automatic. So you get a choice here with the twin setup. Twin automatics makes the synch issue a NON-issue. Torque converters cancel out pull/push bias. You also can choose a manual up front and an automatic in the rear, which will coast when you shift the front with no probs, and under accelleration with the front, the rear will regulate additional load much in the same manner that a wastegate regulates boost. The AWD support of twin transaxles will also provide superior grab over the minivan AWD system. And consider that with the minivan system there is no guarantee that the rear end can handle sporty power delivery, but the twins are guaranteed to handle it... In fact, with twins, since each was designed to handle rocketing around the weight of an entire car by themselves, the strenth of TWO of those doing it ensures that, baring no mechanical falire typical of ANY transaxle (including minivan), it will be WAY more than you will ever need, and smooth as silk. Too many uncertainties and too much customization, and not enough power potential in the minivan setup. All those factors are pretty much givens however in the twin setup, since you use the same formula in the rear that you normally would in the front. As close to a no-brainer as it can get, and I am surprised the Shadow didn't show up sooner on the SD scene. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of geoff rolling so anyways, i think the deciding factor for me in this single/duel engine debate would be daily drivability and if you wanted to put the car on the road and/or retain a stock or near stock appearance. or if you were strictly using this as a racer. it would be hard to keep a stock looking car with the dual engine setup(unless of coarse the original purchaser opted for the heat retardant tonneau cover). now the 3.3 isnt exactly a stock motor in the daytona but its no engine in the trunk. also, both setups may be difficult to get past a safety check unless you did an extremely good job on the fabricating. im not sure if the twin engine would even be legal. you would have to do the swap on a car that is already on the road. the other thing i thought of was that i cant see the twin engines lasting very long when they are competeing against each other if they arent really close to running the same. i think the best plan would be to have both engine as completely stand alone units,! aside from the accelerator cable and maybe battery. i think it would probably be best to have seperate auto shifters so you could put one of the drivetrains in neutral while driving. that way you could switch between fwd, rwd, or 4wd. also since everything would be redundant, this would be the most reliable car ever built. just think, if one drivetrian had a problem, just pop the tranny in nuetral and pull or push it home with the other engine. no tow truck required.lol. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD awd daytona
Stefan, if you do get a chance to talk to the owner, see if he/she will let you reutn with digital camera and floor jack in hand. I think we'd all love to see this. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mullikin, Stefan P Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 1:19 PM I did see a Lebaron convertible running around Portland, OR with the AWD drivetrain swapped in. Had AWD badges and everything. Haven't had a chance to talk to the owner but it looked stock, if not sitting a little higher. I peeked underneath and it didn't look like it was that hard to do, just making the tunnel larger and relocating the gas tank looked to be the biggest hurdles. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD awd daytona
Hmmm... You have me thinking as well here... I have seen two successful cars with twin- engine/trans setups... One was a twin-engine 1G DSM (4G63T/FWD-trans combo in front, and identical setup in rear hatch area), and the other was a twin-engine Hyundai 1G Tiberon that had essentially the same setup as the DSM. Both were well past 350hp, the Tiberon was past 400. I don't see why this isn't possible on a G-body, as we seem to have more than enough room in our hatch area to accommodate a second 2.2/2.5L SOHC engine/trans combo. If the throttle control is so easy on the DSM and Hyundai twin setups, then I figure you can do the same. You could even run a second exhaust pipe on the other side of the bumper, so you would have a single exhaust for each but a two tips (twin exhaust style). I suppose you would first need a K-member cut from the front end of a K car, and then would need to cut open the rear area and weld it in. You would lose your OEM gas tank, but I suppose you might be able to either convert to a fuel cell, or even modify or eliminate alltogether the rear seat area and put a modest sized tank there. I would personally prefer to retain the rear seating, but considering the narrow profile of a 2.2/2.5L slant four, plus the fact that both manifolds are on the rear, you might be able to utilize a tank design that ran edgewise and in front of the rear engine, with a custom superduty firewall between the engine and that. With luck, both tank and engine would still be well below line of sight and you could retain your rear visibility via rear view mirror. If that was so, then you could run a rear hood over the top. I don't know if you would want to retain the large hatch glass, or remove it and create a mid-engine louvered cover, leaving the quarter windows, sorta like a Fiero GT. Then you would just have a small piece of rectangular glass right behind the rear seat. That would look pretty sweet if you ask me. If you did choose to leave the hatch alone, you could just insulate your rear hood and then, I suppose, rug it over to match your interior, as well as retain enough room under your hatch for a SMALL suitcase or duffle bag. Either way you went, if you did the on-edge tank idea, you would still have rear seats in a car that essentially had a mid-engine (equate always with 2-seater) configuration and appearance. For engine temps, I would myself suggest that you run custom radiators in the front. My idea for this would be either side-by-side or narrow top/bottom parallel configuration, one feeding the front engine, one feeding the rear. I am not certain what additional requirements would be needed for running coolant to/from the front to the rear in a cycle, but perhaps some aluminum piping could work to carry it down most the length of the chassis and back. For intercooling, you could either do the same idea as the radiators (although I am concerned for performance reasons on long IC pipes to the rear and back), or much like mid-engine turbocars do, create a top and two side ducts to feed a concealed IC. Again I offer a suggestion, which is to create two side vents, perhaps via the small wuarter windows, where each feed a SMIC. A Y-pipe from the turbo outlet could route to both, and a Y-pipe could join them back up again prior to throttle body. I *suppose* you could just run a non-intercooled later T1. But why? ;) You can, of course, imagine the power potential of two 150hp engines pushing/pulling a G-body. It is essentially 150x2 (of course it's likely a bit less but you get the idea). You could either use identical turbochargers and other stuff, or you could get clever and choose a bigger turbo for the front and a smaller one for the rear, depending on which you want to deliver power when (which depends on what kind of racing you do-- drag vs. road course racing). Although I think identical T3's would be great for autocross or just a good growly street car. Since the A555/568 is a cable shift configuration, I'm sure some custom shift cables could more than get the job done for shifting. SO all you really need is a second TII engine, A555/568 trans, axle hardware, A-arms, swaybar, front struts/springs, and a K-member (not including the seemingly minimal fabbed up stuff), and there you are. Does this sound feasable? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mullikin, Stefan P Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 1:19 PM One of my crazy thoughts is to use the drivetrain from a 300M/Concorde/Intrepid mounted out back. Very compact 604 based transaxle with a nice V-6. Not ideal (would prefer a stronger piece with 5 manually shifted gears) but workable
RE: SD awd daytona
Stefan, I dearly want to win you over to the idea of retaining the front and adding the rear drivetrain. I will try to explain why. The MAIN advantages of a twin-driveline setup: - mild powered engines yield a large overall power output - twin transmissions reduce wear and improve overall strength of driveline(s) since neither is carrying the entire burden of weight individually, and both are designed to. - AWD traction/launch advantage not only improves launches but gives the cornering advantage of AWD (why would you NOT want that?) - Based on my proposed configuration, you still have OEM rear seating if you wanted to stuff two more people OR junk in the car, so why would you need a huge trunk area? This isn't a four door anyways ;) And my edgewise fuel tank idea could work. At which point, cooling needs could still allow for you to retain the front engine. There would certainly be a weight gain issue, but again the 2.2/2.5L SOHC engine isn't all that large, and what's more, the front/rear weight ratio would be improved. Tune them both to 200hp (easy) and you should have more than enough to bolt down a dragstrip despite this weight gain. As it is, you should be able to keep the car well under 5 tons in any case. I would imagine it somewhere around 4,500 lbs. Average musclecar weight. It wouldn't handle like a nimble sport compact, but when did the G-body do that, anyways? The addition of IRS and AWD would allow for superior rear suspension that would be of some use over the solid axle setup, and allow for more controlled cornering. Perhaps even superior slide control. Who knows. All in all, I see no reason why an MR G-body would be better than a FF/MR G-body. Just think, twin 2.2's = 4.4L, and 2.5's = 5.0L. Like a twin turbo V8 AWD weight-balanced coupe, with gobs of brute strength, and the grip of tiger's claws. And the growl of a lion. Maybe I should be on the lookout for another '89 Turbo II engine/trans pondering some more -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: Mullikin, Stefan P [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Well, I'd not bother with keeping the front engine. Reclaim that area for luggage, fuel tank, cooling, etc. Otherwise our thoughts parallel each other. Though I think I'd probably not bother and build a GT40 kit with a more modern V-8 (Toyota, Ferd 4.6?) mated to a Porsche transaxle. Similar amount of effort with better aesthetics (my opinion here) and better overall package from an engineering standpoint. A guy here in Portland actually started building a rear engined Omni GLH-T but I don't think he's gotten very far with it as he works on it when the mood strikes him. He might have even scrapped it by now as the project started because of the car's rust issues (it was imported from elsewhere in the country). One thing he did say was that the drivetrain seemed to fit just fine behind the rear seat/gas tank in the Omni. Of course the Daytona has a shorter wheelbase so that probably wouldn't be true for the 'tona. Dual throttle cables have been done before using the stock pedal. This was for the dual downdraft Weber/Holley using the MP manifold. The shift linkage would be a bit more involved and expensive since you'd need to make sure the cables are routed and adjusted properly. In that case a single engine or two automatics would be an easier solution to implement. Mid-engined conversions have been done with the Fiat X-1/9 platform, so anything is possible. S ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD awd daytona
So then my question to you, the experienced of this tactic, is how do you feel about my ideas applied to the G-body as far as two TII engines go? Any input you'd like to give? I'd be especially interested in your comments about the work involved (and any issues you ran into) with rear mounting. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chad Brown Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 3:49 PM To: sdml Subject: Re: SD awd daytona Two engines is the way to go. People who were at SDAC this year probably saw the monstrosity that we (ExtremePSI) built. For those of you who didn't see the link below you should be able to get a few ideas. http://www.extremepsi.dns2go.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=MI ckey-The-2-engine-Shadow! We used 2 worn out bone stock TI log motors with autos because we had them. We ran a best of 13.4 with no tuning. The car launches great and actually drives pretty decent. AWD, 8 cylinder twin turbo 4 dr shadow. :-D Chad B http://www.extremepsi.dns2go.com - Original Message - From: Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: sdml [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 25, 2004 5:11 PM Subject: RE: SD awd daytona Stefan, I dearly want to win you over to the idea of retaining the front and adding the rear drivetrain. I will try to explain why. The MAIN advantages of a twin-driveline setup: - mild powered engines yield a large overall power output - twin transmissions reduce wear and improve overall strength of driveline(s) since neither is carrying the entire burden of weight individually, and both are designed to. - AWD traction/launch advantage not only improves launches but gives the cornering advantage of AWD (why would you NOT want that?) - Based on my proposed configuration, you still have OEM rear seating if you wanted to stuff two more people OR junk in the car, so why would you need a huge trunk area? This isn't a four door anyways ;) And my edgewise fuel tank idea could work. At which point, cooling needs could still allow for you to retain the front engine. There would certainly be a weight gain issue, but again the 2.2/2.5L SOHC engine isn't all that large, and what's more, the front/rear weight ratio would be improved. Tune them both to 200hp (easy) and you should have more than enough to bolt down a dragstrip despite this weight gain. As it is, you should be able to keep the car well under 5 tons in any case. I would imagine it somewhere around 4,500 lbs. Average musclecar weight. It wouldn't handle like a nimble sport compact, but when did the G-body do that, anyways? The addition of IRS and AWD would allow for superior rear suspension that would be of some use over the solid axle setup, and allow for more controlled cornering. Perhaps even superior slide control. Who knows. All in all, I see no reason why an MR G-body would be better than a FF/MR G-body. Just think, twin 2.2's = 4.4L, and 2.5's = 5.0L. Like a twin turbo V8 AWD weight-balanced coupe, with gobs of brute strength, and the grip of tiger's claws. And the growl of a lion. Maybe I should be on the lookout for another '89 Turbo II engine/trans pondering some more -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (possibly revived?) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: Mullikin, Stefan P [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Well, I'd not bother with keeping the front engine. Reclaim that area for luggage, fuel tank, cooling, etc. Otherwise our thoughts parallel each other. Though I think I'd probably not bother and build a GT40 kit with a more modern V-8 (Toyota, Ferd 4.6?) mated to a Porsche transaxle. Similar amount of effort with better aesthetics (my opinion here) and better overall package from an engineering standpoint. A guy here in Portland actually started building a rear engined Omni GLH-T but I don't think he's gotten very far with it as he works on it when the mood strikes him. He might have even scrapped it by now as the project started because of the car's rust issues (it was imported from elsewhere in the country). One thing he did say was that the drivetrain seemed to fit just fine behind the rear seat/gas tank in the Omni. Of course the Daytona has a shorter wheelbase so that probably wouldn't be true for the 'tona. Dual throttle cables have been done before using the stock pedal. This was for the dual downdraft Weber/Holley
RE: SD Phantom Grip LSD Questions
I wouldn't use a phony grip if you paid me. We are FWD cars, so a torsen like the Quaife works wonderfully for us. RWD cars have to decide between a torsen or a clutch type, depending on if they drag race (torsen) or road race (clutch). The reason is that when racing a corner, if the wheel lifts up, all the power will get sent there by the torsen, and when the wheel lands, it's like an impact wrench on the axle stubs. Not good. The clutch type is better for that reason. For ***RWD***. But we are *FWD*, so that doesn't matter, and the strongest type (torsen) is the best IMO. Stay away from the phoney (phantom) grip, it's just a couple crude blocks of metal and a simple spring for tension. You get what you pay for (or not for what you don't). -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Mulz Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 9:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD Phantom Grip LSD Questions I was wondering about the phantom grip that fwd perfomance has got. Anybody every used one?? I haven't heard much about them so if anyone has any info on them I would appreciate it. I got a 88 Shelby Daytona, S60 Turbo, etc... A555 trans. The tranny needs a rebuild but I can't afford a nice quafie. I'm poor. :( Thanks Jeff _ Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SDsolid polyurethane mounts (noisy!)
I bought mine from John Spiva last month, and my engine is going back in with these as soon as the crank comes back from balancing. I have had solid urethane mounts on my 1G DSM for some time now, and yes there is indeed vibration transmitted throughout the car at certain RPM ranges, but it's low. I kinda like it (that was the point of my first post on this), it lets me hear the engine better... I could tell one time I was getting timing retardation because of that. Datalogger confirmed! And yes, on that car, the shifts were drastically improved. Mitsu trannies are crap, and love to grind, but with solid urethane mounts it was almost completely eliminated as an issue. I am hoping for the same result for my Daytona Shelby! Those of us who have been in SD's for awhile know how much of a pain in the rear (or the front as it were ;) ) the normal style rubber mounts are... The fronts break and you clunk and twist... The passenger side breaks and your engine dips, putting terrible stresses on your transmission and output shaft. The bobble strut is weak, and the engine moves just as much with it in as it does without. I bought everything but the transmission mount from Johnny (wasn't available yet) -- front, passenger side, and rear adjustable dogbone w/ urethane buschings. All top notch pieces. The pieces on my DSM are from Prothane, and Johnny's parts are every bit as good in design. Especially the front mount, with it's two halves design, just like the other vendors that make urethane FWD front mounts. I have no doubt just from looking at these that once installed (and with dogbone properly adjusted), I will be giddy (yes, I said giddy lol) with the results. So much so that likely I will go with a couple of his other products not long after, starting with the tranny mount. Thank you Johnny Spiva! We've desperately needed these for well over ten years. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 5:24 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: SDsolid polyurethane mounts (noisy!) Ive got all the Polybushings.com engine mounts except the trans mount in my 84 rampage and it only had a bit of vibration from idol till about 1300 rpm.. no biggie.. these L bodies no matter what rattle and vibrate a bit anyways.. not sure what car you have em in.. If you still running a linkage type transmission.. this is the way to go if you like to bang through gears and not mis shifts due to the engine/trans rocking some.. Doesnt take much to get it to grind a gear.. this all disappeared when I installed these..The little bit of vibration was worth it.. I just turn the stereo up another notch no biggie.. :) Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA - NorCalTurboDodge 84 Rampage - _www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/pentastarturbo) (or) _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) --._.-*-._.-*- GROUP BUY -*-._.-*-._.-- L body 2 door car truck (ie; Charger, Rampage body styles, ect.) *1979 - 1987* FULL A pillar trim replacement w/integrated dual 2-1/16 gauge housing pods _http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503postcount=9_ (http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471503postcount=9) Contact me privately @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) if interested... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SDsolid polyurethane mounts (noisy!)
Bad-azz. That's what I was hoping for. I say do the rubberized dash ;) Were these the Spiva parts? I'm waiting on my crank to return from the shop (it's being balanced with the whole assembly), then I'll get to experience what you got :) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 12:38 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SDsolid polyurethane mounts (noisy!) I just installed a set of polyurethane engine mounts. installation was more or less smooth. and I am completely confident that my engine is solidly fixed in the engine bay. But_oh_my_god is my car noisy. The roar of various plastic pieces as the tachometer heads toward 5k really, truly becomes deafening. I'm actually considering either removing the mounts or trying to take my entire dash apart and re-assemble it with layers of rubber. between the trim and screws, etc. It was kind of funny as my horn would always sound itself at about 2800rpm because the foam inside the horn pad was decayed. I had to disconnect my horn on the way to work. good thing I had a screwdriver in the car! any comments or suggestions? all refinement of this beast is surely gone now. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE;RE; T1 vs T2 differances
Where can you get one of those computers? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 11:27 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: SD RE;RE; T1 vs T2 differances I agree with Bill as I have the Kit and the hood scoop.Actually thats all I have left of the car along with the injector rail. I ended up getting rid of it last year, as it spent to long as a project car and not worth rebuilding. I've though about putting the kit up for sale, but not really sure how much its worth and if I should keep it or not for my XR4Ti. I guess if I had a good enough offer I would sell it. Probally the same thing for the scoop but it fits pretty nice on the XR so that would have to be a real good offer, the only thing worng with it, is it needs new studs put in now. From: william j gamalski [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 08:09:38 EDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD RE;RE; T1 vs T2 differances just a couple of minor revisions to the specs on the DC/MP T1 innercooler kit, 1st the innercooler is alitte shorter and a little wider than the T2 innercooler, 2nd the intake was a all new casting, not a cut and welded factory unit, it has TURBO AUTO cast into it who was the supplier of the kits. computers for 8586 T1 cars were produced *118*119 with the revised fuel,timinginverted injecter timing. also several hood scoops were produced PS; they will hold 15psi+ bill 99 dak R/T,97 integra gsr (wifes), 93 acclaim, 91 spirit R/T, 90 spirit es, 88 newyorker 2.5 t2, 88 csx-t, 87 glhs #709,86 sc,85 sc , 85 sc mas, 85 glh road racer, 85 turismo 'ugly',3-79 little red exress's, ) Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand. Now includes pop-up blocker! Only $14.95/ month - visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD T1 vs T2 differences
A ROM file? Oooo! Sounds like fun! How do we use that on the computer? What do I need? If I can make this work I'd be willing to try it just for kicks and buy this guy's hardware. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: Mullikin, Stefan P [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 1:08 PM To: Jason Arroyo; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: SD T1 vs T2 differences The ROM file was available on the Mopar_CHEM or Mopar_ECU Yahoo groups. You might also find one of the original computers around someplace (old dealer inventory, ebay, etc.) Otherwise, one of the typical vendors should be able to program a computer for you. I think the early kits may have been modified intakes, but its cool that MP/Turbo Auto cast a new manifold (though I don't know why they didn't fix some of the issues with that manifold while they were at it, lol) Hmm, wonder how hard it would be to use a late T1 intake with the old suck through system? Just build a small adapter that fits in place of the T2 style throttle body... (I know, I know... Me and my weird ideas) BTW, Bill I think you might have a few too many vehicles there :) TTYL, Stefan Mullikin Portland, OR Co-Founder PNW-SDAC http://www.pnw-sdac.org 1980 Fiat X-1/9 1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 1987 Shelby CSX #106 1988 Shelby CSX-T #3 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jason Arroyo Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 12:54 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: SD RE;RE; T1 vs T2 differances Where can you get one of those computers? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 11:27 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: SD RE;RE; T1 vs T2 differances I agree with Bill as I have the Kit and the hood scoop.Actually thats all I have left of the car along with the injector rail. I ended up getting rid of it last year, as it spent to long as a project car and not worth rebuilding. I've though about putting the kit up for sale, but not really sure how much its worth and if I should keep it or not for my XR4Ti. I guess if I had a good enough offer I would sell it. Probally the same thing for the scoop but it fits pretty nice on the XR so that would have to be a real good offer, the only thing worng with it, is it needs new studs put in now. From: william j gamalski [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 08:09:38 EDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD RE;RE; T1 vs T2 differances just a couple of minor revisions to the specs on the DC/MP T1 innercooler kit, 1st the innercooler is alitte shorter and a little wider than the T2 innercooler, 2nd the intake was a all new casting, not a cut and welded factory unit, it has TURBO AUTO cast into it who was the supplier of the kits. computers for 8586 T1 cars were produced. *118*119 with the revised fuel, timing inverted injecter timing. Also several hood scoops were produced. PS; they will hold 15psi+ Bill 99 dak R/T 97 integra gsr (wifes) 93 acclaim 91 spirit R/T 90 spirit es 88 newyorker 2.5 t2 88 csx-t 87 glhs #709 86 sc 85 sc 85 sc mas 85 glh road racer 85 turismo 'ugly' 3-79 little red exress's, ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Log Turbo I vs. Turbo II Engine internals differences
I know the basis on the differences between the early log style Turbo I engines and the Turbo II's, in terms of computer control, manifold differences, throttle body configuration, boost control, turbine housing flange differences, log manifold distribution problems (lean on cyl 1 I think) vs. even-flowing second gen blow-through manifolds (2 and 1 piece alike). What I do NOT know about: 1. compression ratios (Log T1 vs. T2) 2. Piston geometry differences. 3. Head differences 4. Engine block differences (incl. Hardware changes such as bolt sizes/threading) 5. Oil pickup differences (if any) And also I would like to know the differences between these things and the LATER blow through Turbo I, although I suspect the blow-through Turbo I's are almost identical to the Turbo II's. Additionally, I would like to hear about some of the log-style cars that have been tuned for more power, and how that was done. Bear in mind I have no internet web, just email, so sending me links is a PITA unfortunately. Thanks in advance. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Re:Stage II vs. MP
Neil Emiro wrote: I've been watching this thread, and there is quite a bit of mis-information. The Shelby Stage II cals (as they were in the We should all listen to this guy, I know his history with these things and consider him to be as close to the final word as is possible this many years down the line from when the very computers in question were created. Him and a guy named Pettijohn are about all that is left of the original gurus, and were tinkering with the computers long before Gus plugged on his first Grainger. It's good to see that you are still around, Neil. Back in the early 90's I thoroughly enjoyed one of your cals for a few years on a car I had. I laughed and grinned when you stuffed that TII into a Neon (at least I think that was you). And I'm sure you've been up to other neato mischief since then. Certaly one of the SD community's interesting veterans. I am pretty sure the answer is no but I will ask anyways... Have you (ND Performance) been up to anything recently with the Chrysler turbos, old (ours) or new? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD My poor '86 Laser Turbo has seen better days...
Alright, so I had to move the derelict that used to be a Laser last night. It was parked at my friend's apartment complex because they are lenient with such things (there are at least a dozen dusty and/or cobwebbed cars, and a dozen or so dusty watercraft also back there. So that's where I put it). But yesterday she called me and told me they were cutting the trees and we had to go and move it. No keys meant flexing the window open and getting in. The steering wasn't locked (??? Will have to attend to that later) but that was a good thing at the time. We cleaned it off and I got to looking at it. Once clean I warmed back up to it. The body is pretty straight there are no dents or dings. All it is really missing are a few small trim pieces. So I figure I might as well ask around on here to see if anyone has what I need. Maybe someone on here has the stray pieces I am looking for. 1. I need the driver-side mirror. This is a T-top car, so it has the bigger mirror setup. Should be the same as any other T-top G-body (Shelby-Z or Shelby, or another Laser). I also need the plastic stripping that connects to that mirror and runs along the bottom of the window (it usually has the car's name on it, just above the door handle. Mine says Laser). 2. I need a single ground F/X piece for the pasenger side fender, where it meets the front of the door. 3. I need a Chrysler hood emblem for my hood. I don't know if I can use one from another car, but believe it or not I can't find many Lasers in the boneyards recently, and those I do are missing the emblem. I'm not worried if it's rusted or tarnished, I can just paint over that as long as it doesn't have bad pitting. 4. This car has a digital dash (I think it looks really cool), but the speedo goes all over the place. What can you guys tell me about these dashes? I only have experience with the analogs. I would like to keep a digital dash in this car if feasable. What is the max MPH these can display? Are there problems associated with these digital dashes? Anyone have one that works, or know how or who to fix mine? Also, this car has been sitting since 2000! Well, it rolled off and onto a towtruck or tow dolly three or four times in that four years, but that's it. Last I knew, the engine had a screwed up rocker in the head. Should be a simple matter of replacing the entire set. Otherwise it used to run pretty good, the turbocharger boosted up nicely. But sitting there all that time, are there things I need to worry about? Things I should do prior to firing it up? Po' ol' Laser need's sum luvin'. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD RE:
From: Rob P [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Jason Arroyo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD My poor '86 Laser Turbo has seen better days... 4. This car has a digital dash (I think it looks really cool), but the speedo goes all over the place. What can you guys tell me about these dashes? I only have experience with the analogs. I would like to keep a digital dash in this car if feasable. What is the max MPH these can display? Are there problems associated with these digital dashes? Anyone have one that works, or know how or who to fix mine? Digital dash reads to 199. It wasn't regulated to 85 mph hour like the analog because the point behind that regulation was that if people saw a speed over 85 they would be encouraged to drive over 85. Want to scare your friends? Don't tell them and switch to metric. There are still people out there that will swear that I got my bone stock '85 Laser TI up to 173. I just told them I had some work done. That's pretty cool :) But presently mine reads 0 sometimes when I am driving, and at other times, has some obsurd number like 85 when I am going 30... It just fluctuates like something is wrong... Maybe the speedo cable is having a prob, and the digital dah itself is just fine? Anyone with advice, please share. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo with iNsAnE DIGITAL Dash 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD engine tick, and oil problems. please help
Really? Ok so for discussion sake, let's say my A555 takes a dump. What is my best plan of action? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- also the parts to fix the A555 trannys like new gearsets have pretty much dried up. mebbe you should go a little easier on this fine piece of 1980s mopar machinery. it isnt getting any younger. just my .02 mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD engine tick, and oil problems. please help
Is the A568 any harder to find parts for? And isn't that the preferred tranny performance-wise anyways? Also I don't recall the A523, what year/model had it? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Find an A568 or A523 to upgrade to. Or have the missing parts custom machined. -Original Message- Really? Ok so for discussion sake, let's say my A555 takes a dump. What is my best plan of action? -J -Original Message- also the parts to fix the A555 trannys like new gearsets have pretty much dried up. mebbe you should go a little easier on this fine piece of 1980s mopar machinery. it isnt getting any younger. just my .02 mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Cast Arm (was: SD Useful Information)
Speaking of cast arms, can you or someone else tell me what year and model vehicles came with these? I want to peruse my local yards this weekend for them. I assume from a discussion on here a month back that the cast arm is the best way to go on my G-body. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- One is cast arm rebuild, I have a bunch of photos of when I did my rebuild. I will try to add this soon, if the photos turned out. Johnny Spiva ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD RE: tu
About turbochargers: These are precision parts, and you must bear in mind that they require precision tools. You might have noticed a white or some other color dot or blotch on the locking nut of the turbine or compressor wheels, or even noticed the nut had portions ground off. This is part of turbocharger balancing. Much like tire balancing, which requires a precision machine to determine where to place the weights at, turbochargers also require balancing. The difference is that a turbocharger spins many, many, many, MANY times faster, and as such, requires an even more precise machine to balance it. I believe it is called a VSP balancer (or something with a v in it). This machine is expensive! But I suppose that goes without saying. However, there is no way you can reproduce this process with home tools. For that matter, most turbo rebuilders do not posess such a machine either. To my knowledge, the only American company in possession of such a machine is Turbo Engineering Corp. in Colorado. Perhaps in recent years Turbonetics has picked one up for themselves, but if not, they are also farming out to TEC. Most certainly Allied Signal has one for building your new Garrett turbos, but they don't rebuild. Here is basically how most your turbo rebuild shops handle your turbocharger. It gets shipped to them, or, in the case of us who are within driving distance to a rebuilder, gets dropped off. When they get the turbo, they unbolt and remove the housings from the centersection. Generally, the compressor (cold) side housing is fine (this is the silver hairdryer side for the layperson), but they have to inspect the exhaust housing, because the extreme heat will often create radial cracks around the wastegate port with time. If this has happened, most likely you will need a replacement exhaust turbine housing. If this is the case, this is an excellent opportunity for an easy upgrade (this pertains to T2 cars and early T1's with the Garrett T03 turbocharger). The stock housing is .60 in volume, and a nice upgrade is to go with the .63 piece instead, helping flow the exhaust throught he housing better, which I imagine would improve exhaust velocity. I would estimate this upgrade at around $250, but bear in mind, if you are replacing an unusable cracked housing, you'll be paying near that anyways, so another $30-50 gets you the upgraded part. Once the exhaust turbine housing has been taken into consideration, they will turn their attention to the centersection. If this is frozen, there's a good change there isn't much they can do for it (but not always!). If it has seized, they usualy will just purchase a pre-balanced reman or new centersection from a larger distributor, such as Allied Signal (who makes Garrett), or Turbonetics, or some other wholesaler, slap your housings back on (or your new turbine housing if it was necessary), and send it to you. Most reman or new centersections come pre-balanced on that expensive machine. In the case of a rebuildable centersection, the end nuts are removed from the two wheels (note that they are reverse-threaded from standard applications, because if they weren't, the turbocharger would unscrew itself apart with its rotation). In most cases the compressor wheel is fine. It's the exhaust turbine they worry about. Often times they are chipped or chewed up beyond use, and must be replaced. Regardless, this is another point they can upgrade, but again we are talking more $$$. The thrust bearing is replaced, and the shaft inspected for straightness. In most cases the shaft is actually replaced, new exhaust turbine is used, original compressor wheel is put back on (or upgraded wheel, which may require machining the inlet of the original compressor housing, or a different housing altogether), and then the shaft is balanced against the wheels. What results from al this is a balanced remanufactured centersection. Your turbo rebuild shop gets all this back in the mail. They slap on the housings, maybe spraypaint them that manifold grey. In some cases, if you paid for it, they will get out the grinding powertools and have fun with your exhaust turbine housing. They can enlargen the turbine inlet at the manifold point, enlargen the internal wastegate, even redirect the way the gasses hit it to reduce boost spike and creep, smooth out rough areas, and can even rework O2 housings in some cases. All this is labor per hour, and generally they can tell you right off how long it typically takes. When they're done, they stick it in a plastic bag, box it up, and ship it to your door. There is usually a warranty from the rebuild shop, which requires the use of new oil feed and return lines. Otherwise that is that. Your turbocharger is ready to install back onto your engine. You should replaced the O2 sensor at this time, and use a new gasket on the downpipe. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo
RE: SD RE: tu
Ball bearing turbochargers use ceramic ball bearings to improve spool and reduce wear on the shaft. For the most part, a well equipped thrust bearing turbocharger, with upgraded exhaust housing, is usually fine, and given a larger exhaust behind it, spools quick. There are also heavy duty thrust bearing replacements that give more lifespan and reliability to a standard thrust bearing turbocharger. Unless you are running 10-second cars, a ball bearing turbo isn't necessary IMO, and I know of plenty people who have run with standard thrust bearing T3's and T3/T4's. The only reason I would go to a ball bearing turbo is if I chose the turbo for its other flow properties, such as one of Garrett's GT series turbochargers, which are excellent in my opinion. However if given the chance, I'd just be happy with a T3/T4 with heavy duty thrust bearing and ported/modified .63 turbine housing, using a T04E compressor housing and a 50-trim compressor wheel, and a 7-deg clipped turbine. Plenty of flow potential. Add a 3 exhaust, and you get that thing spooled quick. But this is just my $0.02. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Speaking of bearings, aren't the Ricers using ball-bearing turbos? Advantages? Availability for TDs? I've never heard anybody mention ball-bearing turbos on either TD forum I subscribe to. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Turbo Timer
Hi all. I've been so concerned with my T2 crank issues that something I've wanted to ask skipped my mind... I have a Greddy Turbo timer that was given to me. It has a number of wires coming out of it. How do I wire this up to my '89 Daytona Shelby? Also, has anyone ever wired up something like an Apex'I Super AFC into our cars? I know they typically work based on airflow meters (AFC = Air Flow Converter), but the DSM community has changed that... Those cars are airflow meter based as well, but they managed to add a MAP sensor underhood, and use the output voltage as the signal for the Super AFC, and base the fuel corrections on boost rather than airflow (which makes sense!) One guy in the DSM community says he thinks it should therefore work for us too, and this is why I am asking. If it does, it would offer all you guys in-dash controllability of your fuel, among other nice goodies I will detail. For those who are unfamiliar with this product, the Super Air Flow converter is designed to increase or decrease fuel delivery by modifying sensor data normally sent to the ECU. It does so by intercepting and upping or lowering the sensor signal before it hits the ECU, +/- 20%. The first generation S-AFC's had five knobs, each knob representing an RPM range of 0-9000 rpm (each knob = 1800 rmp incremements or something like that), and would gradient the fuel curve between each knob setting. The newer and more common second generation style S-AFC (which I have used extensively) has a digital lit pixel display, with a four-way button control located on one side. I recommend using http://images.google.com to search for pictures of Super AFC for visual reference. This version is the one that has been snookered into reading MAP signal. Unlike the knobbed version, the secong gen unit can adjust fuel incrememnts +/- 20% per each 1000 rpm increment, as shown on the digital display via bar graph. Each vertical bar represents the 1000-range, and the bar height/depth represents the increase/decrease of fuel... the baseline is a line down the length of the display, mid-height. This is zero. You can iterally richen or lean on the fly, from the driver's seat, and very accurately. Try to understand that 20% more on stock injectors is actually a lot, but on larger injectors is MUCH more. The computer thinks the stock injectors flow X amount of fuel. If you add a larger injectors, the S-AFC is a good way to bring them back down to more reasonable flow where you need to, and not where you don't, in the RPM range. Among this feature are a slew of others, as this device takes other sensor inputs. It can read RPM's, throttle position sensor, and even O2 voltage if you wire it for that (one of the other readouts just gets subsituted with the O2 signal wire). It can display the various inputs one at a time, two, even four at a time. At two at a time, you get the option of displaying them as analog faces with moving needles. Really nice. Kinda neato to sit there with the engine off and watch the TPS needle leap when you slap down the accellerator pedal. Anyways, the question here with our cars is VOLTAGES. I can do this WITH YOUR HELP. I need to know the various voltages, sensors, etc., that feed into the ECU. We can worry later about where physically those wires are. For now, just tell me what inputs we use. Remember, the AFC *intercepts* signal, modifies voltage, then sends it back out to the ECU. Except for the fuel signal, all the AFC wiring is input only, T'd off the original wire usually. The fuel signal wire inputs into the AFC, and a second wire outputs from it. I can get one of these for only $150 last I was told, new, and they look plretty clean and classy. My last one I took the shell off to spraypaint it flat black, and when I put it back together and mounted it, with the car off it blended in. A cop pulled me over once and I forgot to completely turn the ignition off (so the AFC stayed lit), he asked what it was, I told him it was my CD changer. I even brought up the fuel adjustment screen and told him the bars were the EQ ;) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD History of Shelby Dodge
I can contribute. I am a technical writer and have dabbled in column writing as well. I'd enjoy being a part of such an undertaking for our community. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XT Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- I think that Jason has indirectly sparked a subject that I think should be addressed by the SD community at some point in the near future. Someone (well actually a group of people) really should compile a more centralized historical document (or documents) on these cars (whether that becomes an officially published item is another discussion). It would need to be a living document as it will take some time to gather data and fit it into the timeline and the addition of new information will help the new people to the hobby as well. There's a number of good starts on the information for both the Chrysler development and the Shelby Skunk works, Bob Marsh would likely be able to help fill in some of those holes on the Shelby side. Dave Z and other engineers and former DC management could help fill holes from the old Chrysler side. Given the scope of such an undertaking it can't/won't be done in a short period of time. I'd be more than happy to help with this type of project (in fact I think I will just with the online information that exists currently, for my own purposes anyway) TTYL, Stefan Mullikin ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD XE or XT ?
So. Then I'm an XE? Digital dash with no boost gauge, voice message center, but I have the leather premium pump-up XT seats? Or are those XE options? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- I have 1985, 1986 and 1987 Chrysler Laser Daytona brochures. The packages for Canada may have been slightly different than in USA and they were branded Chrysler rather than Dodge (presumably so Plymouth dealers could sell them too). In 1985, the XE had the 24 function electronic monitor with voice output, electronic navigator, dual air horns, electronic dash, power heated mirrors, smaller sway bar and softer springs and turbo boost guage not available due to the electronic monitor. There was no XT model, but a Daytona Turbo and a Daytona Turbo Z. In 1986 the Daytona Turbo was dropped, keeping only the Daytona Turbo Z and the Laser XT was added. The brochure bills it as the athlete of the Laser family. The XE included standard the electronic voice monitor, electronic dash, 205/60R15 tires and 2.5 NA engine. The XT included standard the analog dash, boost guage, hood louvers, message center, special front and rear sway bars, stiffer springs and better shocks, 225/50VR15 unidirectional tires, and the 2.2 turbo engine. The electronic dash was not optionable. The Turbo Z allowed the suspension, tires and electronic navigator as options. The last page doesn't show the T roof in the features list, but the text in the middle of the brochure indicates that it is available as an option on all models. In 1987, the Laser XE, and Laser XT are gone. Now available are the Daytona, Daytona Pacifica and Daytona Shelby Z. The electronic dash was an option only on the Pacifica. Jeff Page 1985 Daytona Turbo (original owner) 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING-- -- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD Centercaps
I asked before if anyone had or knew where I could get a centercap for my Daytona Shelby's 16 pumper wheel, or a whole wheel with cap on it. I duno if Mr. Salamone has anything either. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XT Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
FW: SD History of Shelby Dodge
I've been to Dempsey's site, like I said I've been through most of the site info and I know the linneage from the first Shelby Dodge to the last as well as the Dodge Shelby cars and R/T's, I was asking about the 2.2 engine itself, and the 02, which are also essential to the result that is our cars. (added note: I saw after this your post on the 2.2, but you didn't confirm or deny tht the deisn of the 2.2 was derived from the VW 1.8L SOHC Golf engine.. They look nearly identical!) -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XT Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: Mullikin, Stefan P [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 11:31 AM To: Jason Arroyo Subject: RE: SD History of Shelby Dodge From Dempsey Bowling's website: ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD What should I do with my '86 Laser?
Good question, I'll have to get back to you on that. -J -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Mize Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 2:57 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD What should I do with my '86 Laser? What is the Vin? then we can tell what you have... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: RE SD What to do with my old Laser turbo
Then by those standard, I do indeed have an XT although since others have requested both VIN and pictures, I will procure those this weekend if possible to end all doubt. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XT Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 9:31 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Jason Arroyo Subject: RE SD What to do with my old Laser turbo the XT did NOT stand for T top on the laser XT. the XT was an upgraded option package over the standard laser XE, and laser base model packages. the standard XT package included everything in the laser base model, and XE package or upgraded equipment, plus the digital instrument cluster, EVA message center, illuminated entry, enthusiast bucket seats with pump up lumbar cushion, a 2.5L F/I engine with 5 speed tranny, different XT specific body side cladding, a fiamm air horn, wagon wheels, 12 button trip navigator, upgraded sound system. as well as other extras as part of the XT package. the t top option was exactly that an option available on all 3 laser models in 1986. base model , XE, and XT. a turbo engine was still optional on the XT as well as the t top and sunroof packages. i have seen many hard top and sunroof XTs as well as some with t tops. i have also seen the XTs both ways, with a N/A engine and with a turbo engine tho i have seen more of the XTs with a turbo than wthout. i have seen the XTs with digital instrument cluster and with analog gages tho most of em seem to have the all digital dash with navigator and EVA setup. 2.5L N/A was standard on the XT. as was the 5 speed transaxle. equal length half shafts were standard on all turbo models by 1985. hope this helps mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD message reply
I usually trim mine, as you see below, but in the case of a more detailed discussion, I trim the header and tagline crap out, even the what cars I have info under people's names, but I leave a couple replies worth of info there if they aren't more than a few paragraphs. Sometimes you gotta keep SOME of the history there. But yeah some people just hit reply, type out their biz above all the old replies, and click SEND. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser ???XT??? Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo (you can delete all that crap about my cars tho lol) -Original Message- Am I the only person on digest that is getting tired of people not trimming their replies? it really sucks to only get a few sentences of new message and the rest is all crap from FULL LENGTH PREVIOUS REPLIES. Come on people, it doesn't take that long to delete text that we have already read 750,000 TIMES. Dennis D'Spain. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Re: SD cheap but decent struts
I've ridden in a Daytona with Konis and I wasn't all that impressed compared to my AGX's, so I'll be on the hunt tonight and over the weekend for something better than Konis for a G-body. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XT Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 3:34 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SD Re: SD cheap but decent struts i am thinking toward using the kybs myself. not too cheap and some performance. i was just was wondering if there was anything cheaper and just as good performing. i guess some folks on the lists didnt understand when i said they were for my work beater and i didnt want to spend too much cash on them. most said to go with konis. i am not into paying mega $ per strut. even if they are rebuildable. i think i will go try the kyb gr2 struts. my friend runs a hot rod shop and he said he can get em for me at his jobber cost. now my 88 daytona shelby Z i will spare no expense and will probably get a set of konis for it. thanks for all the suggestions mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
FW: SD There's hope for us yet.
I wonder what Kelly Blue Book says with that kind of low mileage... ??? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Looks like it the reserve was met and it sold for 13,200. I think the 86 GLHS cost somewhere around $11,500 new so this one has actually appreciated in value over time, good news for the hobby in my opinion. Dave ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD What to do with my old Laser turbo
Ok. I have this old 86 Laser turbo. I know after the Daytona Shelby is done (hopefuly by week's end) I'll turn my attention to the Laser. So what's the story on this thing? First off, I don't even know which model it is. How can I tell? It's automatic, had a message center with NO boost gauge (but had that voice box thing). I removed that and put in a Turbo Z boost gauge/message center cluster in its place, and ran in vac hose, the gauge works great, but the message center obviously doesn't. Whatever. I want to light the gauge tho. This thing is automatic, although strangely enough, it has the equal length shaft system with the cardan joint, rather than the unequal setup. Even my '88 Daytona Pacifica had unequals, so how did this older '86 Laser get this? I guess al the autos in the turbo fours are A413, but if memory serves, there's a difference in the torque converter sleeve or something that, on older ones, is crack prone??? I have four crabs on it. Looks better than what it came with (dorky wagon wheel style). 86 has 5 studs, bless it :D It has leather front seats, with that hand pump. I don't think it pumps anymore, I wonder why. It has T-tops. It has the ugly Laser spoiler. I want to go Turbo Z 3-piece instead. It has an ugly front end. I want to put on a Turbo Z front end. Ok so I basically want a Turbo Z clone. I can do all that myself. What I WANT to do, tho, is make this a RALLY car. They USED to have rally springs available through MP, but I doubt it now. SO... How can I set this car up for offroad fun? Can I stick some knobby tires on these crabs and go for it? What springs? Any suggestions? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD spring recommendations ??? (G-body - Daytona Shelby)
Stefan, I'm asking about adjustable shocks/struts, as in the kind that have (in the case of the fronts) a knob or screwhead at the top and are twistable to four or five different valve rates, and (in the case of rears) have a knob on the side bottom that is twistable to eight or so different valve rates. I site Tokico illuminas or KYB AGX as examples. I don't know if Koni has these. I know that some shocks I have seen are adjustable but you have to remove them first and then twist the lower half around to change valving. I don't want that, I want to be able to do that while it's installed (like I do on DSM's AGX's). I know what you are rerferring to when you say adjustable spring perches, that would be coilovers as commonly called, and that was actually my next question about how/where to get 'em, but I'll be happy with, at the least, prokits... You mentioned something in your other post about shadow kits being stiffer... You mean the springs are a higher rate? My question is are they the same height as Daytona eibach springs... Because if you just find either lower fronts or slightly taller rears, you can fix that issue. Of course height difference would only work if both springs had the same rate, and just slightly different heights. Someone mentioned ideas for IRS on G-bodies, can we discuss that more in depth? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Sure, just buy a set of Koni's (they come with stock style perches) and a set of adjustable spring perches (Honda kits on Ebay work nicely) Some adaptation would be needed to get it to fit properly. I think the issue I ran into with the setup that my brother gave me was that the ID of the collars weren't large enough to fit over the strut. So some time spent with a lathe and a boring bar is needed. So they're still on the shelf along with my set of Koni front struts. I think next time I'd see if you could get the setup with a large enough ID to fit over the struts before purchasing Then you simply have to cut the stock perches off and drop the new adjustable perches in place. Or you can simply have Koni or one of the rebuilders convert your struts for you and valve them to match the rates you're running. (300 front and 250 rear is a good starting point, unsure about spring length though) Best Regards, Stefan Mullikin -Original Message- Hmmm Koni's can be had in adustables for our G-bodies? I think I asked before but I don't remember... I want a set of knob-adjustables (i.e. KYB AGX which are excellent from my experience in other cars) if a brand with that feature is available. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Im going to guess you have KYB's Ditch those and spring for some Koni's.. They're well worth the price IMHO if you enjoy a spirited handeling vehicle.. ...the only way to go! What spring rate Eibachs ya runnin? Are these Eibachs your running the Pro Kit, Sport kit or coilovers? thanks Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA - NorCalTurboDodge ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD spring recommendations ??? (G-body - Daytona Shelby)
Ok, I don't get the last sentence in the first paragraph, why would you worry about traffic with a racecar? So if I took some standard control arms and boxed them in, and used tem on my existing K-frame, would that be the best result and the stiffest setup? Of course, I figure a tubular custom replacement would be ebtter, but hey boxing in is easier. 11 rotors eh? What's the stock for 89 G-body? Im sure willwood could make me something even better tho and I wouldn't need to replace my whole K frame.they match the hub with the rotor of choice usually. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser XT Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (maybe SOLD) 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Basically, yes. Be sure to run some negative camber as well. However the car won't handle too well that way unless the pavement is very smooth. Most race cars are softened up for the race to make it more capable to keep the tires connected to the track when they're having to deal with traffic. The minivan control arms are already boxed in for strength. Though the later model cast control arms are inherently stronger. Simply requires a K-frame swap along with the control arms and uprights (11 brakes woohaa lol) Stefan ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD Ebay and the SDML
Cliff, trust me when I tell you, every car club is full of tight *sses, not just our group here (remember that I belong to a number of different model-specific clubs). But is it really all about money or are we interested in helping each other here? Like I said, Ebay is fine if there's no good takers for parts but most TD people know what is a fair price for our stuff. We don't really make that much money off of an intake mani or whatnot to make that a huge issue, do we? All I'm saying is ebay is more effort than a single post to a list or forum containing a quickie list of whatcha got. If that doesnt work then sure, ebay the things, and step it up. But why not help each other out here first? I'll be selling my perfect, already reground '88 crank (ready to go) on here, because I know I will get a fair price, and help a TD enthusiast out (same as was done for me with the '89 T2 crank I'm buying off an SDML member). So yeah when I get the car together, some things will go on $ale. Here. I'll take obo's, suggestions, whatever, but I want TD people to get the help they need first. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- TD people are normally a tight fisted bunch that don't spend more than they need to, while there are some who are not this way it's pretty much they way things go. Ebay reaches people who are not on the mailing lists and might have a TD product in addition to their Road Runner, GTX, Red Express, late model car and such and find items on ebay. I have posted and sold items here and on other lists for years but sometimes Ebay will get you a better deal and sometimes not. All in all it's the sellers choice to list here or on ebay, their time, their parts and it's their choice to sell the best way for them and if ebay gets them what they want, so be it. As you stated, with things getting more scarce why limit yourself to the boards when ebay reaches people all over the world. My .02 worth also. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. How Chrysler built it. '86 GLHS 065 2.2 TIII, 568. How Shelby would have built it. '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568. How I built it. [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 9/1/2004 12:16:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I was discussing this with another list member and I decided to bring it up here... I'm sure it's been discussed before, but I wanted to hear your opinions on Ebay and the SDML... Personally I prefer that SD people just list their stuff out, and first come first serve gets it at the listed price. SD'ers know what stuff is worth and what is a fair price for it... Making us fight each other over an item is kinda harsh... I think stuff should be offered here first, then the items that get no taker in a week's time should go on ebay (or preferably get relisted here). I just don't think it's very considerate to the SD community to offer these parts (which are quickly becoming more scarce) to the general community instead of offering it to the enthusiasts first pick. My polite, but firm $0.02 -J ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
RE: SD A-555
I thought the A555 was bulletproof? How did this happen? -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II 1986 Chrysler Laser Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for sale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -Original Message- Had a melt down on the interstate last weekend. 5th gear is soo toast. I have my Tranny at Inland Truck parts (Rapid City). They can not seem to find parts for it. Anyone know of a place i can buy new parts for this A-555? Will be needing the whole gear sets, Syncro ect ect ect. thanks SDML. Jim. 87 Daytona 2.2 TII ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
