Re: CS>Speaking as a Pharmacist...Here is What's Coming

[Deborah Gerard]

 
https://nationalfile.com/broward-county-orders-follow-mask-rules-in-your-own-home/
On Sunday, July 12, 2020, 09:05:51 AM EDT, Gmail  
wrote:  
 
 
http://www.godlikeproductions.com/forum1/message4454014/pg1


Those who deliberately erase history should not be part of the future. Anon









  

Re: CS>silver rods

[PT Ferrance]

Thank you, Ode.  I read that if I started the process with some eis already 
added it would reduce the time to make it.  Since without that addition it 
takes about 5-6 hours I guess I am good.  I only use distilled water but I did 
recently change the brand.
I have no yellow light.  Only one light that swaps red and green.
Do I need to do anything to the silver rods to remove the whitish 
patina?Thanks.PT 

On Tuesday, July 21, 2020, 07:21:51 AM EDT, Ode Coyote 
 wrote:  
 
 It should take  AT LEAST 6 hours to do a quart or the water isn't good enough. 
Some contaminants in water can kick off reactions with the silver or become 
involved with the silver until it gets used up.If it's doing that, time can 
actually increase as the results aren't conductive and won't contribute to the 
Auto Off triggering...but the water may actually appear grey with a very heavy 
TE. [Tyndall Effect]

TE  is always a variable...it's not a result of what the 'generator' is doing, 
but relates to what is happening AFTER the gen does its thing in the 
environment it's working in. The 'generator' makes ions and nothing BUT 
ions..and you can't see ions at all...and it's the ions that do most of the 
'work' the fastest.
Even with a heavy TE, at least 85% of the silver content is still 
ionic...so..TE isn't much of anything to worry about.The yellow color is due to 
the oxidation of some of the ions. Some water contaminants can kick that 
reaction into play..with no way to tell 'what' is in water. The stronger you 
make the EIS, the more sensitive to stray reactions it becomes.Silver Oxide 
suspended in the water is harmless...unsightly, but harmless.

With the variances in water,"normal' covers a fairly wide piece of territory.
Want something different?...change the water.

Adding not more than 2 or 3 Drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per Quart to the 
water when the Yellow LED starts blinking and letting  the generator run longer 
will increase the Colloidal [vs Ionic] Content [Do not reset/unplug the 
generator when doing this as you will now be making non conductive colloids 
that meters and the generator cannot detect and it may not ever turn itself off 
...or enter programmed mode. ]

 Even a trace of H2O2 changes EVERYTHNG…let jar completely dry between batches.




Ode


On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:12 AM PT Ferrance  wrote:

If I start with some eis already in the jar when I fill it with distilled water 
2-3 hours.  If I start with straight distilled then longer... maybe 5 or 6?  
Your equipment is so reliable I kind of set it and forget it for a bit and 
haven't kept track of times in quite awhile.  
The interesting thing, to me, is that when I dry off the rods now they leave no 
black residue on the paper towel.  They used to leave black marks.  Is there 
anything that needs to be done to them to remove the white patina (sort of) on 
them?
The Tyndall line used to be fine and tight and now it is wider and fuzzy.
Thanks.PT
. 

On Monday, July 20, 2020, 07:12:49 AM EDT, Ode Coyote 
 wrote:  
 
 How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch?

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance  wrote:

Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel nothing 
comes off of them.  Also no black speckles in the eis and no light yellow 
color.  Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the line... not 
the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy.
Any ideas how to get things back to normal?Thanks.PT
  
  

Re: CS>Q for Ode, et al

[Reid Harvey]

Considering the mention of silver in a pottery glaze it may also be vaguely
interesting that those doing stained glass use a silver stain.  I wonder
that this might be where the designation 'stained glass' originated.

Silver stain fires onto glass at a relatively low temperature: 800
Fahrenheit.  According to the amount used this gives anything from a pale
yellow to a deep orange.  And unlike all other colorants used on the cut
glass this penetrates the glass, not simply fused on top.

On Tue, Jul 21, 2020, 7:44 AM Ode Coyote  wrote:

> Baking soda DOES react with the silver making it light sensitive.
>  It's a pretty slow reaction taking several hours of light exposure.
> [ I tested Dr Marxs claim years ago, made a  BEAUTIFULLY clear batch using
> a DC gen and I started to "eat crow" online as it sat on the window
> sill...it turned a thick cloudy milky grey just before I hit the 'send'
> button.
>
> Ferreting out a formula for making silver glaze for pottery from Silver
> Acetate, Silver Carbonate was being used as the source material to make the
> Silver Acetate.
>  Adding in Distilled white vinegar to the Silver Carbonate suspension
> [following the instructions], the cloudy grey went back to crystal clear
> indicating that highly soluble Silver Acetate had been the result]
>
> I do not know if Silver Carbonate is made while the generator is running
> or if it takes the addition of light to kick the compound into
> existence..but it DOES happen.
>
>  Put a few drops of H2O2 in some of that red batch and see if it clears up
> over night...or some vinegar?
>
> ode
>
> On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 11:04 AM James Osbourne Holmes <
> jamesosbournehol...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I am using Dr. Marx's CSPro Max device.
>> The mechanical timer fell over and jammed and the batch ran overnight.
>> The rods were slightly pitted.  Bruce said to run a bit longer and it would
>> produce a usable batch.  I did about 13 minutes instead of 11.  The batch
>> has a slight red tint to the usual gold.  It has remained stable for
>> several months.
>> I will appreciate your...or anyone's comments.
>> Thank you for your attention.
>>
>> James Osbourne Holmes
>> a/k/a *Red Pill Media*
>> American State National
>>
>> *http://t heamericanstatesassembly.net
>> *
>> http://annavonreitz.com
>> h ttp://signinamerica.com
>>
>> This private email and any attachment(s) is covered by the Electronic
>> Communications Privacy Act, 18 USC 25-10-2521 and is for the sole use of
>> the intended recipient and contains privileged and/or confidential
>> information. No monitoring of my email or other means of surveillance,
>> electronic and otherwise, is permitted and I reserve all my rights, without
>> recourse and without prejudice, nunc pro tunc.  I do not consent to anyone
>> tampering with, altering or delaying any incoming or outgoing communication.
>>
>>

Re: CS>Q for Ode, et al

[Ode Coyote]

Baking soda DOES react with the silver making it light sensitive.
 It's a pretty slow reaction taking several hours of light exposure.
[ I tested Dr Marxs claim years ago, made a  BEAUTIFULLY clear batch using
a DC gen and I started to "eat crow" online as it sat on the window
sill...it turned a thick cloudy milky grey just before I hit the 'send'
button.

Ferreting out a formula for making silver glaze for pottery from Silver
Acetate, Silver Carbonate was being used as the source material to make the
Silver Acetate.
 Adding in Distilled white vinegar to the Silver Carbonate suspension
[following the instructions], the cloudy grey went back to crystal clear
indicating that highly soluble Silver Acetate had been the result]

I do not know if Silver Carbonate is made while the generator is running or
if it takes the addition of light to kick the compound into existence..but
it DOES happen.

 Put a few drops of H2O2 in some of that red batch and see if it clears up
over night...or some vinegar?

ode

On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 11:04 AM James Osbourne Holmes <
jamesosbournehol...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I am using Dr. Marx's CSPro Max device.
> The mechanical timer fell over and jammed and the batch ran overnight.
> The rods were slightly pitted.  Bruce said to run a bit longer and it would
> produce a usable batch.  I did about 13 minutes instead of 11.  The batch
> has a slight red tint to the usual gold.  It has remained stable for
> several months.
> I will appreciate your...or anyone's comments.
> Thank you for your attention.
>
> James Osbourne Holmes
> a/k/a *Red Pill Media*
> American State National
>
> *http://t heamericanstatesassembly.net
> *
> http://annavonreitz.com
> h ttp://signinamerica.com
>
> This private email and any attachment(s) is covered by the Electronic
> Communications Privacy Act, 18 USC 25-10-2521 and is for the sole use of
> the intended recipient and contains privileged and/or confidential
> information. No monitoring of my email or other means of surveillance,
> electronic and otherwise, is permitted and I reserve all my rights, without
> recourse and without prejudice, nunc pro tunc.  I do not consent to anyone
> tampering with, altering or delaying any incoming or outgoing communication.
>
>

Re: CS>silver rods

[Ode Coyote]

It should take  AT LEAST 6 hours to do a quart or the water isn't good
enough.
 Some contaminants in water can kick off reactions with the silver or
become involved with the silver until it gets used up.
If it's doing that, time can actually increase as the results aren't
conductive and won't contribute to the Auto Off triggering...but the water
may actually appear grey with a very heavy TE. [Tyndall Effect]

TE  is always a variable...it's not a result of what the 'generator' is
doing, but relates to what is happening AFTER the gen does its thing in the
environment it's working in.
 The 'generator' makes ions and nothing BUT ions..and you can't see ions at
all.
..and it's the ions that do most of the 'work' the fastest.

Even with a heavy TE, at least 85% of the silver content is still
ionic...so..TE isn't much of anything to worry about.
The yellow color is due to the oxidation of some of the ions.
 Some water contaminants can kick that reaction into play..with no way to
tell 'what' is in water.
 The stronger you make the EIS, the more sensitive to stray reactions it
becomes.
Silver Oxide suspended in the water is harmless...unsightly, but harmless.

With the variances in water,"normal' covers a fairly wide piece of
territory.

Want something different?...change the water.

Adding not more than 2 or 3 Drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per Quart to the
water when the Yellow LED starts blinking and letting  the generator run
longer will increase the Colloidal [vs Ionic] Content [Do not reset/unplug
the generator when doing this as you will now be making non conductive
colloids that meters and the generator cannot detect and it may not ever
turn itself off ...or enter programmed mode. ]

 Even a trace of H2O2 changes EVERYTHNG…let jar completely dry between
batches.


Ode

On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:12 AM PT Ferrance  wrote:

> If I start with some eis already in the jar when I fill it with distilled
> water 2-3 hours.  If I start with straight distilled then longer... maybe 5
> or 6?  Your equipment is so reliable I kind of set it and forget it for a
> bit and haven't kept track of times in quite awhile.
>
> The interesting thing, to me, is that when I dry off the rods now they
> leave no black residue on the paper towel.  They used to leave black
> marks.  Is there anything that needs to be done to them to remove the white
> patina (sort of) on them?
>
> The Tyndall line used to be fine and tight and now it is wider and fuzzy.
>
> Thanks.
> PT
>
> .
>
>
> On Monday, July 20, 2020, 07:12:49 AM EDT, Ode Coyote <
> silverpuppy1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch?
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance 
> wrote:
>
> Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel
> nothing comes off of them.  Also no black speckles in the eis and no light
> yellow color.  Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the
> line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy.
>
> Any ideas how to get things back to normal?
> Thanks.
> PT
>
>