The whitish patina is highly divided silver [aka 'dust' or micro rough surface ] Leave it be.
On Tue, Jul 21, 2020 at 8:55 AM PT Ferrance <ptf2...@bellsouth.net> wrote: > Thank you, Ode. I read that if I started the process with some eis > already added it would reduce the time to make it. Since without that > addition it takes about 5-6 hours I guess I am good. I only use distilled > water but I did recently change the brand. > > I have no yellow light. Only one light that swaps red and green. > > Do I need to do anything to the silver rods to remove the whitish patina? > Thanks. > PT > > > On Tuesday, July 21, 2020, 07:21:51 AM EDT, Ode Coyote < > silverpuppy1...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > It should take AT LEAST 6 hours to do a quart or the water isn't good > enough. > Some contaminants in water can kick off reactions with the silver or > become involved with the silver until it gets used up. > If it's doing that, time can actually increase as the results aren't > conductive and won't contribute to the Auto Off triggering...but the water > may actually appear grey with a very heavy TE. [Tyndall Effect] > > TE is always a variable...it's not a result of what the 'generator' is > doing, but relates to what is happening AFTER the gen does its thing in the > environment it's working in. > The 'generator' makes ions and nothing BUT ions..and you can't see ions > at all. > ..and it's the ions that do most of the 'work' the fastest. > > Even with a heavy TE, at least 85% of the silver content is still > ionic...so..TE isn't much of anything to worry about. > The yellow color is due to the oxidation of some of the ions. > Some water contaminants can kick that reaction into play..with no way to > tell 'what' is in water. > The stronger you make the EIS, the more sensitive to stray reactions it > becomes. > Silver Oxide suspended in the water is harmless...unsightly, but harmless. > > With the variances in water,"normal' covers a fairly wide piece of > territory. > > Want something different?...change the water. > > Adding not more than 2 or 3 Drops of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per Quart to the > water when the Yellow LED starts blinking and letting the generator run > longer will increase the Colloidal [vs Ionic] Content [Do not reset/unplug > the generator when doing this as you will now be making non conductive > colloids that meters and the generator cannot detect and it may not ever > turn itself off ...or enter programmed mode. ] > > Even a trace of H2O2 changes EVERYTHNG…let jar completely dry between > batches. > > > Ode > > On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 9:12 AM PT Ferrance <ptf2...@bellsouth.net> wrote: > > If I start with some eis already in the jar when I fill it with distilled > water 2-3 hours. If I start with straight distilled then longer... maybe 5 > or 6? Your equipment is so reliable I kind of set it and forget it for a > bit and haven't kept track of times in quite awhile. > > The interesting thing, to me, is that when I dry off the rods now they > leave no black residue on the paper towel. They used to leave black > marks. Is there anything that needs to be done to them to remove the white > patina (sort of) on them? > > The Tyndall line used to be fine and tight and now it is wider and fuzzy. > > Thanks. > PT > > . > > > On Monday, July 20, 2020, 07:12:49 AM EDT, Ode Coyote < > silverpuppy1...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > How long is it taking to run a 10 PPM batch? > > On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 10:46 AM PT Ferrance <ptf2...@bellsouth.net> > wrote: > > Hi, Lately I've noticed that when I clean my rods with a paper towel > nothing comes off of them. Also no black speckles in the eis and no light > yellow color. Laser shows a wider line and can almost see speckles in the > line... not the nice tight line I used to get from my silver puppy. > > Any ideas how to get things back to normal? > Thanks. > PT > >
