Re: [Spits] edge trim source
I went with 8451A63, as it's textured black like the original. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone: 781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: paulfme...@msn.com Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 15:03:17 -0400 Subject: Re: [Spits] edge trim source From: d...@dougbraun.com To: paulfme...@msn.com CC: spitfires@autox.team.net The closest match would be 24175K14 or maybe 8451A72. You probably need to check the maximum sheet metal thickness that the strip must cover. Doug On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 2:44 PM, Paul Meyer paulfme...@msn.com wrote: Thanks Doug. Page 3740 of thier online catalog. Perfect. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone: 781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: paulfme...@msn.com _ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] edge trim source
Listers, I'm looking for a source to buy replacement edge trim. In several locations around the interior of the car, there's a egde trim installed. It's black vinyl with a metal core - it's used primarily to cover unfinished edges of sheet metal, notably along the back edge of the car, where the interior and exterior sheet metal join. I tried Moss and VB, but couldn't find it. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone: 781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: paulfme...@msn.com _ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
Re: [Spits] edge trim source
Thanks Doug. Page 3740 of thier online catalog. Perfect. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone: 781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: paulfme...@msn.com Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 14:21:58 -0400 Subject: Re: [Spits] edge trim source From: d...@dougbraun.com To: paulfme...@msn.com; spitfires@autox.team.net McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) sells a bunch of styles, by the foot. I recently got samples of several styles. I'll go and compare them to the trim on my car and report on the best type. Doug Braun '72 Spit On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:17 PM, Paul Meyer paulfme...@msn.com wrote: Listers, I'm looking for a source to buy replacement edge trim. In several locations around the interior of the car, there's a egde trim installed. It's black vinyl with a metal core - it's used primarily to cover unfinished edges of sheet metal, notably along the back edge of the car, where the interior and exterior sheet metal join. I tried Moss and VB, but couldn't find it. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone: 781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: paulfme...@msn.com _ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/d...@dougbraun.com _ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 ___ Spitfires@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/arch...@jab.org
[Spits] Exhaust Manifold '78
Getting my '78 spitfire 1500 ready for spring and the exhaust manifold is cracked - again. Anyone have advice on replacing this item? I put a Weber DGV on several years ago, and figured I'd replace the exhaust manifold eventually. Seems like the Stainless 4 into 2 into 1 header is a good option, but fitting it is challenging I've heard. I'd prefer to use another cast iron exhaust manifold, but can I get one without all the threaded ports for the EGR, etc? does an earlier year manifold direct swap? Seems to crack at stress point above the mount to the catalytic converter. BTW, my converter is cosmetic - last time i had it apart, it looked like the previous owner had filled the Cat with lava rocks from a gas grill. Two questions - first, does anyone have a stock exhaust manifold for sale that would fit? Second, anyone have any web pages showing thier efforts at replacing the manifold? Paul F. Meyer Home Phone: 781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: paulfme...@msn.com _ Hotmail. goes with you. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_ Mobile1_052009 ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
[Spits] Any New England Spitfires going to Day of Triumph this Sunday?
Our Annual Day of Triumph brought to you by the New England Triumphs will be on the lawn this Sunday July 27th from 9:30AM-3:00PM. Car registration is $20 or you can register the day of the show. Join us and see some of England's finest machines on the grounds of the museum. There will be a raffle awards along with plenty to see including the museum's latest exhibit. Spectator admission is only $10 for adults and $5 for Children under 12 so join us this Sunday for a spectacular event. Please call (617)522-6547 to pre-register or for further information.Larz Anderson Auto Museum15 Newton StBrookline, MA 02445Phone: 617-522-6547Paul F. Meyer Home Phone: 781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_ Refresh_messenger_video_072008 ___ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive
Re: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Hi Roger, I installed a Weber DGV, and the fuel pressure is a little over
2.5 lbs.
I ordered the weber after the CD150 went nuts after a rebuild. In
retrospect, the rebuild was fine, it was the new fuel pump I installed
shoving 5+ psi down it's throat that caused the problems.
Original Message Follows
From: Roger Elliott [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Paul Meyer [EMAIL PROTECTED], spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 18:25:34 -0500
I have been chasing similar problems for quite a while. It never occurred
to me that the problem could be too high of fuel pressure.
What did you need to set the pressure at to make the car run correctly? I
stopped at Napa, they had one that could be adjusted 2 - 4 pounds and one
that could be adjusted 4-9 pounds.
Thanks,
Roger Elliott
Paul Meyer wrote:
Several years ago I swapped carbs on my '78.
Similar fuel problems resulted, which were eventually identified as being
caused by the new carb requiring less fuel pressure. Idle was ok, but as
soon as I increased rpm or fiddled with the choke, it would roughen or
stall. I too replaced the fuel pump, but that only made things worse.
I put in a cheap, in-line fuel pressure regulator, and got some
improvement, but the cheap regulator caused flow problems in high rev
conditions.
Ultimately, I put in a higher quality fuel pressure regulator, and that
solved it.
Paul F. Meyer
Home Phone:781-551-8574
Cell Phone: 781-801-3170
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Original Message Follows
From: David Woerpel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:43:27 -0500
Hello,
I am helping a friend with a 1979 Spitfire 1500. He's removed the
Zenith and installed 2 S.U. HS4's. I'm one of the masochistic types
that likes working on SU's and have no problem with the H4's on my MGA
or H1's on the Bugeye Sprite but this problem has us stumped.
The car has been desmogged, the head lightly shaved (I don't know how
much) and the rest is stock as far as we know. It was running happily
and he decided that he wanted SU's. The carbs are set correctly. We
started with the jet adjusting nut at 12 flats down (yes, they are
centered). The float levels are at 3/16, oil in the dashpot (1/2
above tube). The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise
equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min., it
starts to stall. Add choke; it runs. Push off the choke and it wants
to die. When we tried hand manipulating the throttle it occasionally
coughs back through the carbs and dies.
The owner had ordered a new mechanical fuel pump which we installed. It
ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both float
bowl overflows. I know the mechanical pump isn't putting out too much
pressure so I'm suspecting the float needle and seat. New rubber tipped
ones are on order. The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect
timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth. Just for kicks, what are
the timing specs for a 79 1500? He has no manual and mine are for my
above cars.
Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI
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Re: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
Thanks to everyone who replied. As I've said many times to people who ask about my car, I couldn't imagine owning a car like this without the help of the on-line community. So the summary opinions are: the fuse block connection (middle fuse) Bullet connections (all) Ground at lights (all) The middle fuse has given me trouble before, so I'll look at that. Harness and lamp sockets are on the way, so hopefully that tackles the connectors. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone:781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Original Message Follows From: Bill Gingerich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Paul Meyer' [EMAIL PROTECTED],spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 21:51:13 -0500 I'll second the fuse idea. As I recall the tail lights and dash lights are on the same fuse. It's the middle one. Bill G OKC, OK '74 Spit, etc. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Meyer Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 11:12 AM To: spitfires@autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins Guys, When I first got my '78 Spitfire in 2000, I had intermittent electrical problems, most of which cleared up when I replaced the old frame ground strap. I later upgraded to a GM alternator which improved most of the remaining, occasional problems. I have had one issue, though, that got worse. Years ago, the dash and tail lights would go out simultaneously. The next day, they'd work. This happened 6 or 7 times in the first two years of ownership. So, I dismantled all the lights, cleaned the contact surfaces, applied dielectric grease and re-assembled. It appeared to solve the problem for a while. Then it returned. Recently I can't get the dash or tail-lights to work at all. Oddly, my left turn signal works in the rear, but not the right. I'd really like some feedback on this. Has anyone had the same problem? I've pored over the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, and a really great one that has the wiring in color that I found on-line. It appears that all the affected lights share one common red wire that travels from the body harness under the dash to the rear of the car. This doesn't explain the dash lights, though. I jumpered the red wire at the harness plug to the rear of the car, and it didn't improve. I unwrapped the tape over most of the harness wiring, but couldn't find any obvious exposed copper or damaged insulation. I'm stumped. There is a black wire, the ground, that runs from the tail lamp housings toward the front of the car, but doesn't seem to have a pin in the body harness connector. I tried tracing it, and I think it terminates at a nut on the firewall brace near the battery - several black wires join there and are linked by a cable on the same nut to the black Battery terminal. At the tail, some wires have power - specifically, the fuel guage sender. I was not able to get the light to come on at any of the lamp positions affected. I gently pulled the fuse box out to look over the harness connections. They all appear ok, but the middle fuse is connected to only one green wire with a red stripe. Seems odd. In desperation, I ordered a new body harness, 6 new lamp sockets, and new bulbs. I also ordered a new dimmer for the dash lights, as it's part of the same red-wire circuit. I hate taking the shotgun approach, but I'm out of ideas and will need an inspection sticker next month. _ Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the im Initiative now. Its free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_June07 ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
Re: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Several years ago I swapped carbs on my '78.
Similar fuel problems resulted, which were eventually identified as being
caused by the new carb requiring less fuel pressure. Idle was ok, but as
soon as I increased rpm or fiddled with the choke, it would roughen or
stall. I too replaced the fuel pump, but that only made things worse.
I put in a cheap, in-line fuel pressure regulator, and got some improvement,
but the cheap regulator caused flow problems in high rev conditions.
Ultimately, I put in a higher quality fuel pressure regulator, and that
solved it.
Paul F. Meyer
Home Phone:781-551-8574
Cell Phone: 781-801-3170
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Original Message Follows
From: David Woerpel [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spits] 79 Spitfire with SU carbs
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2007 17:43:27 -0500
Hello,
I am helping a friend with a 1979 Spitfire 1500. He's removed the
Zenith and installed 2 S.U. HS4's. I'm one of the masochistic types
that likes working on SU's and have no problem with the H4's on my MGA
or H1's on the Bugeye Sprite but this problem has us stumped.
The car has been desmogged, the head lightly shaved (I don't know how
much) and the rest is stock as far as we know. It was running happily
and he decided that he wanted SU's. The carbs are set correctly. We
started with the jet adjusting nut at 12 flats down (yes, they are
centered). The float levels are at 3/16, oil in the dashpot (1/2
above tube). The car starts and runs on choke and the pistons rise
equally but when the choke is gradually reduced after, 3-5 min., it
starts to stall. Add choke; it runs. Push off the choke and it wants
to die. When we tried hand manipulating the throttle it occasionally
coughs back through the carbs and dies.
The owner had ordered a new mechanical fuel pump which we installed. It
ran better off choke momentarily but then fuel poured out both float
bowl overflows. I know the mechanical pump isn't putting out too much
pressure so I'm suspecting the float needle and seat. New rubber tipped
ones are on order. The coughing back through the carbs makes me suspect
timing but when it runs it's pretty smooth. Just for kicks, what are
the timing specs for a 79 1500? He has no manual and mine are for my
above cars.
Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.
Dave
59 :{)
59 MGA 1500
05 MCS
Burlington WI
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[Spits] Tail and dash light Gremlins
Guys, When I first got my '78 Spitfire in 2000, I had intermittent electrical problems, most of which cleared up when I replaced the old frame ground strap. I later upgraded to a GM alternator which improved most of the remaining, occasional problems. I have had one issue, though, that got worse. Years ago, the dash and tail lights would go out simultaneously. The next day, they'd work. This happened 6 or 7 times in the first two years of ownership. So, I dismantled all the lights, cleaned the contact surfaces, applied dielectric grease and re-assembled. It appeared to solve the problem for a while. Then it returned. Recently I can't get the dash or tail-lights to work at all. Oddly, my left turn signal works in the rear, but not the right. I'd really like some feedback on this. Has anyone had the same problem? I've pored over the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, and a really great one that has the wiring in color that I found on-line. It appears that all the affected lights share one common red wire that travels from the body harness under the dash to the rear of the car. This doesn't explain the dash lights, though. I jumpered the red wire at the harness plug to the rear of the car, and it didn't improve. I unwrapped the tape over most of the harness wiring, but couldn't find any obvious exposed copper or damaged insulation. I'm stumped. There is a black wire, the ground, that runs from the tail lamp housings toward the front of the car, but doesn't seem to have a pin in the body harness connector. I tried tracing it, and I think it terminates at a nut on the firewall brace near the battery - several black wires join there and are linked by a cable on the same nut to the black Battery terminal. At the tail, some wires have power - specifically, the fuel guage sender. I was not able to get the light to come on at any of the lamp positions affected. I gently pulled the fuse box out to look over the harness connections. They all appear ok, but the middle fuse is connected to only one green wire with a red stripe. Seems odd. In desperation, I ordered a new body harness, 6 new lamp sockets, and new bulbs. I also ordered a new dimmer for the dash lights, as it's part of the same red-wire circuit. I hate taking the shotgun approach, but I'm out of ideas and will need an inspection sticker next month. _ Hotmail to go? Get your Hotmail, news, sports and much more! http://mobile.msn.com ___ Spitfires mailing list Spitfires@autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires
lights wiring dilemna
Hi Folks, 5 years ago, when I got my '78 Spitfire, it suffered several intermittent electrical problems (no surprise there). Since then, I've resolved most of the gremlins. I replaced the frame ground, went to the GM alternator, and cleaned many of the contacts that were suspect. I still don't trust the readings from the fuel guage or temp guage, but a replacement voltage regulator is on it's way. Recently, one of the more annoying gremlins returned. When I turn on the headlights, I get only headlights. The dash lights, side marker lamps, rear lights, brake lights, and reverse lights refuse to turn on. Oddly, my turn signals work fine. Five years ago, I tackled this problem by replacing all the rear bulbs, cleaning the bulb contacts and applying dielectric grease to the fittings I cleaned. When I finished, they worked fine, but on rare occasions they would drop out, but return. I attributed this to Lucas black magic, and counted myself lucky. I had suspicions that somewhere in the body harness, a wire had found a more convenient route to ground, but wiggling the harness, or checking the visible parts did not provide much help. A few weeks back, the problem returned, but the lights are stubbornly refusing to come on. I just inspected all the rear bulbs and found one bulb needed replacing. To my eye, all the connections look clean and in good condition. I assume the fuse is fine, as other items that depend on it are working ok. I downloaded the wiring diagram available on www.triumphspitfires.net, as I couldn't decipher the one in the haynes manual very well. After staring a good long time, it would seem that every light affected has one common wire: the solid red wire that goes from the main pin on the body harness, through the car to the back, and then pigtails to almost every light (except the turn signals). Here's the question: Has anyone else had a similar problem, and was it the red wire? If so, what do you think my best course of action is? I can replace the body harness in it's entirety, as they are available (spitbits and Rimmerbros.com), but if someone has a simpler/cheaper/better option, I'm all ears. Does it make sense to replace just the red wire? Guidance, advice, and experience gratefully accepted. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone:781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html === This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register === http://www.vtr.org === Help keep Team.Net on the air === http://www.team.net/donate.html === unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try === http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool === Other lists available at === http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo === Archives at http://www.team.net/archive === http://www.team.net/the-local === Edit your replies!
Charging woes
Hi Listers. I recently replaced the alternator on my '78 Spitfire. I got the unit from Spitbits, and installation was no problem. Since putting the Weber carb on the car, the idle speed is slightly lower during warm up, so I noticed that the red ingnition light was on for a few moments, then would go out. I've heard this story before, but eventually the light stayed on longer at each start, and now stays on. After filling up recently, I turned the key and got a very slow turnover. Luckily it started, but I'm bummed. Can I repair something in this alternator? or do I chuck it and go GM after the Christmas bills are paid (read next spring). Paul F. Meyer Home Phone:781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-801-3170 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
too much fuel pressure?
Hello again everybody. In my last post, I explained that my stock ZS carb had given up the ghost, and 3 rebuilds had not been able to resolve the main problem - that of raw fuel overflowing from the carb vent after a few minutes of running. I replaced the carb with a new Webber DGV 32/36 and was amazed that it started and ran quite well - for a few minutes. While waiting for the engine to reach full operating temp, I observed that raw fuel began to drip from the secondary, and then the primary. Once it started the car began to belch and cough. I have a mechanical pump - one I paid a little extra for back in April. 3 rebuilds and now a new carb is having a similar problem. Oddly, I've put several thousand miles on the fuel pump and old carb before this started. Could the pump have suddenly begun putting out a higher pressure? or am I simply incapable of checking a float height correctly? How many votes for swapping the fuel pump? Other suggestions greatly appreciated. Paul F. Meyer Home Phone:781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-883-0961 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your current Internet access and enjoy patented spam control and more. Get two months FREE! *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
Weber DGV Install
After several frustrating weeks fiddling with my ZS Carb, I have ordered a Weber DGV install kit. I've seen several photos of lister's cars with with DGV's installed, but would greatly appreciate it if listers could advise me of any links to photos of DGV installs in greater detail. Thanks to all who offered advice on my carb options, and those who offered thier old carbs for my consideration. A few questions: Do these kits Spitfire conversion kits usually come with the right jets for a spitfire? If not, can anyone forward a link listing DGV needles - I've only seen Paul Tegler's DCOE tables. Since the intake/exhaust gasket is a one-piece, will I need to remove the exhaust manifold completely? The throttle cable linkage currently bolts to the CD's intake manifold - should I anticipate coming up with a new bracket, or did the kit have adequate arrangements? Paul F. Meyer Home Phone:781-551-8574 Cell Phone: 781-883-0961 e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Fretting that your Hotmail account may expire because you forgot to sign in enough? Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! *** http://www.team.net/the-local*** *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
1500 Exhaust manifold needed
Hi Listers; My '78 1500 has developed 2 cracks in the exhaust manifold. They've been there for a while it appears, but it's getting too loud to pass inspection I prefer a stock manifold as I've heard too many complaints about headers not fitting, etc. I have found used ones on-line, but would rather get one from a lister if its available. Thanks in advance Paul Meyer /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Oil Filters
Fred's e-mail about oil filters brings up a question I have a Fram PH-16 waiting for my next oil change, which I planned to do this weekend. I've got a '78 1500. There's a BOSCH filter on there now (ordered from Vicky Brit - no # on the filter) Anybody have glowing reviews on a specific oil filter? /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
Re: cooling-ignition-fuel???
Hi Peter, First thing I'd check is that your fan belt is in good condition and is at the proper tension. I had a low battery condition combined with a warmer than usual engine temp, and it turned out my belt was loose. Next, I'd consider a radiator flush and fill. I had one done at Jiffy-Lube. They use a pressurized unit to swap the fluid. I'm not sure if the old coolant was getting bad (it seemed clean and the correct color), but the swap cleared out some brown sludge and engine temps improved. Eventually I ended up replacing the water pump and thermostat (overzealous of me, in retrospect). I'd also check that the heat shield is in place between the carb and exhaust manifold. Also check the routing of your fuel lines so they aren't too close to any hot spots. I had a similar hot start problem. Make sure you're starter is bolted down tight, so the gear teeth mesh cleanly. After a new battery died suddenly, I replaced the starter solenoid, and eventually the battery. Problem solved. If that hadn't worked, I would have the starter checked - I had one full of gunk on a tractor once, acted like a low battery, but there was just too much friction in the starter to get a good spin. Regards, Paul Meyer '78 Spitfire 1500 ___ Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2002 13:23:21 +0200 From: =?iso-8859-1?B?UOl0ZXIgQvNuYQ==?= [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: cooling-ignition-fuel??? I have run the first 400km with my spit mk3. Everything seems ok except of cooling. At our climate, 30-35C (86-95F, I think...) is normal especially in July-August period. At this temperature the reading on the gauge is 50% cruising at 80-90km/h (50-55mph) and the engine works perfectly. Problems begin in towns or in traffic jams driving in lower gears. The engine stalls in idle or it seems having ignition problems at higher speed. I have the same problem, when I drive correctly (gauge at 50%) and stop for 5 minutes. Restarting the engine in this cases is difficult, the starter can turn slowly the engine and after restarted, stall often, because during the 5 minutes the engine is not cooled and the gauge gets to the critical 60%. I have replaced the old coil for a new one, this was the only used part in the ignition, but it did not help. I have small radiator and normal fan. Fuel pump seems working. What do you think about it? thanks, peter /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool /// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive /// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED] /// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer, they will NOT be sent.
