Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Jason Mier


 

 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 01:31:43 +0900
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question
 
 Hi Dawie
 That sounds hopeful. But wouldn't hammering along the edge thin the
 metal and expand it rather than compacting it? I'd thought of
 hammering in the middle to expand it, hopefully making the whole
 thing bulge out, but I didn't want to make the middle thinner, and
 weaker. Maybe if I started out with slightly thicker metal. And,
 indeed, heat it to light yellow.

you shouldnt have to heat it. if you hammer in a spiral out from the center 
with a slightly convex hammer, and a flat dolly/anvil, you should get a dome 
after a time. 
you might have to make more than one pass to get the depth you want. bodywork 
takes forever, but if you keep at it, you can make some pretty cool stuff.

 That was my initial reaction at the time, so I went back and re-read. Indeed,
 one hammers onto a dolly on anvil where one wants the metal shrunk.
 Perhaps compacting the edge amounts to much the same thing as 
 expanding the middle. I can't quite see it though.

 there are different hammer profiles for what you wish the metal to do.
there are pick style hammers for fine detail, something that looks like an 
epically small meat tenderiser to shrink the metal, wedges for making corners, 
and various convex heads for expansion. there are almost as many dolly types to 
match.

to buy them new in a kit isn't cheap, but if you look around maybe someone will 
sell an old set..
 
here's a tip sheet of how they work, and some types there are.
http://www.metalshapers.org/tips/covell/ 
 
jason 
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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Keith Addison
Hi Jason

Thanks, that's very instructive.

It would certainly help if I had an anvil, but I don't. I couldn't 
get one in Hong Kong, and here in Japan I can't afford one, they're 
very expensive (nothing's cheap in Japan) (except junk), and I've 
never come across a 2nd-hand one. I suppose metal workshops in 3rd 
World rural towns do have anvils.

I do have a good selection of hammers though, maybe a dozen or so 
different types. Instead of an anvil I use a 15-inch-long section of 
12-inch rolled steel joist, not ideal, but it's useful, eg:
http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/discblades.jpg
- flattening rotovator blades to turn it into a small, powered, disc 
harrow (discovator?), which works very well. (I sharpened the blades 
and adjusted it so it only cuts 2-3 inches deep, chops everything up 
and mixes it in, without creating a clay pan.)

Anyway, I think I might manage this without an anvil.

Thanks again - all best

Keith


   Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2010 01:31:43 +0900
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

  Hi Dawie
  That sounds hopeful. But wouldn't hammering along the edge thin the
  metal and expand it rather than compacting it? I'd thought of
  hammering in the middle to expand it, hopefully making the whole
  thing bulge out, but I didn't want to make the middle thinner, and
  weaker. Maybe if I started out with slightly thicker metal. And,
  indeed, heat it to light yellow.

you shouldnt have to heat it. if you hammer in a spiral out from the 
center with a slightly convex hammer, and a flat dolly/anvil, you 
should get a dome after a time.
you might have to make more than one pass to get the depth you want. 
bodywork takes forever, but if you keep at it, you can make some 
pretty cool stuff.

  That was my initial reaction at the time, so I went back and 
re-read. Indeed,
  one hammers onto a dolly on anvil where one wants the metal shrunk.
  Perhaps compacting the edge amounts to much the same thing as
  expanding the middle. I can't quite see it though.

  there are different hammer profiles for what you wish the metal to do.
there are pick style hammers for fine detail, something that looks 
like an epically small meat tenderiser to shrink the metal, wedges 
for making corners, and various convex heads for expansion. there 
are almost as many dolly types to match.

to buy them new in a kit isn't cheap, but if you look around maybe 
someone will sell an old set..

here's a tip sheet of how they work, and some types there are.
http://www.metalshapers.org/tips/covell/

jason



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Re: [Biofuel] The waterless toilet

2010-11-05 Thread Roland cassar
I think these are the ones they have on Table Mountain in South Africa. This
mountain is a environment friendly and every environment cause that can
exist. The people of South Africa especially of Cape Town are very
environment friendly and even protect the wild grass that grows on road
sides.

On Wed, Nov 3, 2010 at 1:28 AM, Bob Molloy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The latest from South Africa where burgeoning squatter camps around the
 large cities have outgrown the municipal water supply;.

 www.enviro-loo.com




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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Michael Fleetwood
Hi Keith,

Can you make a depression in the end of a hardwood log and hammer the 
tin into shape with a ball hammer or a wooden shaper?

Or if its to hard to make the dome could you use a long tin can or a 
length of tube with holes in it?

mike.

At 08:29 PM 3/11/2010, you wrote:
Hi Dawie

 Keith
 
 It looks to me, unless I've misunderstood the failed attempt, that
 you want a worked sheetmetal piece rather than a casting or moulding.

That's right. It's just thin metal, like a tin can. I think anything
much heavier might upset the balance, which is just right - as you
walk the cans more or less empty themselves, you don't have to tip
them much, if at all.

 And then the trouble would be to get the domed shape into it: I take
 it the shape is necessary for the proper functioning of the rose.

Yes, it widens the spread, and some of the water goes up, which
extends the reach.

 The first thing that springs to mind is to scour vehicle breaker's
 yards for bits of body panels that have a suitable dome. As you only
 need a small piece an otherwise irreparable panel might do.

A circular domed part of a car? I can't think of one, but I'll
certainly have a look.

 Otherwise one could start with flat sheetmetal and work in the dome
 using traditional bodywork techniques.

That's probably my problem, I don't know much about bodywork techniques.

 The problem is that one would be working in ungalvanized metal,
 though one could cold galv it afterwards.

Or use some linseed oil, or this:

Anti-rust Paint from Fish-Scraps - A short guide to the technique
by M. L. Allen, Prince of Songkla University, Thailand
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/FishPaintJTF.pdf

 To form the dome, heat a metal disc until a light yellow oxide bloom
 appears. Then hammer along the edge of the disc to compact the
 metal. You'll probably have to heat, hammer, and let cool a few
 times to achieve the desired domed shape. I haven't done this myself
 but have read somewhat on the subject.

That sounds hopeful. But wouldn't hammering along the edge thin the
metal and expand it rather than compacting it? I'd thought of
hammering in the middle to expand it, hopefully making the whole
thing bulge out, but I didn't want to make the middle thinner, and
weaker. Maybe if I started out with slightly thicker metal. And,
indeed, heat it to light yellow.

 The holes would be made afterwards with an awl and hammer on a
 suitable wood block. Assembling the dome onto the collar and cone
 involves the same sort of techniques as the can itself, folded seams
 and solder.

Yes, that's the easy part.

 That seems to me an appropriately crafts-based way to do it.
 
 I hope this helps.

It does, in several ways. Thanks very much Dawie.

Regards

Keith


 -Dawie
 
 
 --- On Tue, 2/11/10, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Biofuel] A metalworking question
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Date: Tuesday, 2 November, 2010, 20:30
 
 
 Hello all
 
 If you don't mind my asking, I could use a little help with some info
 at the Journey to Forever website.
 
 It's about Chinese watering cans, at this page:
 
 Appropriate technology  Chinese watering cans
 http://journeytoforever.org/at_can.html
 
 High-power rose -- tricky to make, it says. We haven't figured out
 how to make new roses yet, but we're working on it. We're trying twin
 male/female moulds using our friend Graeme Morris's recipe for a
 rock-hard putty made of glass-fibre resin and lime -- that way we
 should be able to get the holes right. See Watering can plans for
 details.
 http://journeytoforever.org/at_canplan.html
 
 It didn't work.
 
 I've made eight of these cans over the years, and when I leave I
 abandon the cans themselves and take the roses with me. The cans seem
 to be ubiquitous, they're what veg oil, methanol and so on come in.
 This pair is the current version:
 http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/wcans.jpg
 
 The cans in action:
 http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/k-wc.jpg
 
 They're very efficient - using both cans at once, two passes gives
 you 1 a litre per sq yd/sq metre coverage.
 
 snip


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Mike Fleetwood
Canberra Australia and Sidcup UK.

Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Ivan Menchero
 a litre per sq yd/sq metre coverage.
 
 snip


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 Mike Fleetwood
 Canberra Australia and Sidcup UK.
 
 Worldwide email address is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
 
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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Dawie Coetzee
Keith

It would certainly help if I had an anvil, but I don't. I couldn't 
get one in Hong Kong, and here in Japan I can't afford one, they're 
very expensive (nothing's cheap in Japan) (except junk), and I've 
never come across a 2nd-hand one. I suppose metal workshops in 3rd 
World rural towns do have anvils.

A short piece of railway rail works well. Japan does a lot with railways: 
perhaps someone has an odd offcut?    -D




From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Fri, 5 November, 2010 12:39:42
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

Hi Jason

Thanks, that's very instructive.

It would certainly help if I had an anvil, but I don't. I couldn't 
get one in Hong Kong, and here in Japan I can't afford one, they're 
very expensive (nothing's cheap in Japan) (except junk), and I've 
never come across a 2nd-hand one. I suppose metal workshops in 3rd 
World rural towns do have anvils.

I do have a good selection of hammers though, maybe a dozen or so 
different types. Instead of an anvil I use a 15-inch-long section of 
12-inch rolled steel joist, not ideal, but it's useful, eg:
http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/discblades.jpg
- flattening rotovator blades to turn it into a small, powered, disc 
harrow (discovator?), which works very well. (I sharpened the blades 
and adjusted it so it only cuts 2-3 inches deep, chops everything up 
and mixes it in, without creating a clay pan.)

Anyway, I think I might manage this without an anvil.

Thanks again - all best

Keith


snip


  
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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Keith Addison
Hello Ivan

Since the ideas are getting more wild...

???

Somebody mention a car yank yard, from there you might be able to 
find an old hub cup.

Not convex enough.

How about cutting a circle out of a BIG PIPE, you would have half of 
the problem solve (one axes).

That might help if it were thick metal, but it's not.

If you must hammer (I think this is a manly project and you either 
like to hammer or just want to make it to perfection as a hobby)

Think away then, you're welcome. I suppose some people have lots of 
time on their hands, but I'm not one of them, and no, I don't enjoy 
hammering, I don't have hobbies, and what's required is a practical 
solution, not perfection (which should be obvious).

how about hammering against something semi hard so when you hammer 
it would gave it a little (the log idea or even thick leather)

I don't see how that would help either.

To tell you the truth I don't understand why does it have to be of a 
dome shape, I think it would work almost the same straight.

I think the operative phrase there is I don't understand. Why don't 
you try it? You might get about a quarter of the coverage, which 
would mean four times as much work for the same result. Do you really 
think people are that dumb that they'd go to the considerable extra 
trouble of making domed roses if it had no effect? Unless they're 
just toys, ALL watering-can roses are convex and always have been, 
because it works much better that way.

Happy tinkering,

Looks like it needs some emphasis - it's not fun, it's not a game, 
it's work, it has a serious purpose.

Keith


Ivan


--
From: Michael Fleetwood [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 6:39 PM
To: sustainablelorgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

  Hi Keith,

  Can you make a depression in the end of a hardwood log and hammer the
  tin into shape with a ball hammer or a wooden shaper?

  Or if its to hard to make the dome could you use a long tin can or a
  length of tube with holes in it?

  mike.

  At 08:29 PM 3/11/2010, you wrote:
  Hi Dawie

snip


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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Keith Addison
Hi Mike

Hi Keith,

Can you make a depression in the end of a hardwood log and hammer the
tin into shape with a ball hammer or a wooden shaper?

That's a good idea, I'll try it.

Or if its to hard to make the dome could you use a long tin can or a
length of tube with holes in it?

Hm. Did you notice Geoffrey Herklots's description of the spout on 
the old wooden watering-cans?
http://journeytoforever.org/at_can.html
(40 catties of water is about 24 litres)

That's clever. It would work well, next best thing to a good rose, I think.

Hey, I'm really glad I asked, excellent responses. I'm sure I'll 
succeed now, probably with a combination of all the suggestions.

Thanks very much!

Regards

Keith

mike.

At 08:29 PM 3/11/2010, you wrote:
Hi Dawie

  Keith
  
  It looks to me, unless I've misunderstood the failed attempt, that
  you want a worked sheetmetal piece rather than a casting or moulding.

That's right. It's just thin metal, like a tin can. I think anything
much heavier might upset the balance, which is just right - as you
walk the cans more or less empty themselves, you don't have to tip
them much, if at all.

  And then the trouble would be to get the domed shape into it: I take
  it the shape is necessary for the proper functioning of the rose.

Yes, it widens the spread, and some of the water goes up, which
extends the reach.

  The first thing that springs to mind is to scour vehicle breaker's
  yards for bits of body panels that have a suitable dome. As you only
  need a small piece an otherwise irreparable panel might do.

A circular domed part of a car? I can't think of one, but I'll
certainly have a look.

  Otherwise one could start with flat sheetmetal and work in the dome
  using traditional bodywork techniques.

That's probably my problem, I don't know much about bodywork techniques.

  The problem is that one would be working in ungalvanized metal,
  though one could cold galv it afterwards.

Or use some linseed oil, or this:

Anti-rust Paint from Fish-Scraps - A short guide to the technique
by M. L. Allen, Prince of Songkla University, Thailand
http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/FishPaintJTF.pdf

  To form the dome, heat a metal disc until a light yellow oxide bloom
  appears. Then hammer along the edge of the disc to compact the
  metal. You'll probably have to heat, hammer, and let cool a few
  times to achieve the desired domed shape. I haven't done this myself
  but have read somewhat on the subject.

That sounds hopeful. But wouldn't hammering along the edge thin the
metal and expand it rather than compacting it? I'd thought of
hammering in the middle to expand it, hopefully making the whole
thing bulge out, but I didn't want to make the middle thinner, and
weaker. Maybe if I started out with slightly thicker metal. And,
indeed, heat it to light yellow.

  The holes would be made afterwards with an awl and hammer on a
  suitable wood block. Assembling the dome onto the collar and cone
  involves the same sort of techniques as the can itself, folded seams
  and solder.

Yes, that's the easy part.

  That seems to me an appropriately crafts-based way to do it.
  
  I hope this helps.

It does, in several ways. Thanks very much Dawie.

Regards

Keith


  -Dawie
  
  
  --- On Tue, 2/11/10, Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: [Biofuel] A metalworking question
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Date: Tuesday, 2 November, 2010, 20:30
  
  
  Hello all
  
  If you don't mind my asking, I could use a little help with some info
  at the Journey to Forever website.
  
  It's about Chinese watering cans, at this page:
  
  Appropriate technology  Chinese watering cans
   http://journeytoforever.org/at_can.html
  
  High-power rose -- tricky to make, it says. We haven't figured out
   how to make new roses yet, but we're working on it. We're trying twin
  male/female moulds using our friend Graeme Morris's recipe for a
  rock-hard putty made of glass-fibre resin and lime -- that way we
  should be able to get the holes right. See Watering can plans for
  details.
  http://journeytoforever.org/at_canplan.html
  
  It didn't work.
  
  I've made eight of these cans over the years, and when I leave I
  abandon the cans themselves and take the roses with me. The cans seem
  to be ubiquitous, they're what veg oil, methanol and so on come in.
  This pair is the current version:
  http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/wcans.jpg
  
  The cans in action:
  http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/k-wc.jpg
  
  They're very efficient - using both cans at once, two passes gives
  you 1 a litre per sq yd/sq metre coverage.
  
   snip


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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Joe Street
Hi Keith;

If I had to make something like that I would look around for something 
that already had the shape and see if I could modify it to work.  There 
are metal bowls for example.  I have some stainless ones in my kitchen.  
There is a flat but I would guess that it is small enough and in the 
center it shouldn't make so much of a difference.  This would require 
only a pattern of holes to be drilled and the bowl could be soldered or 
epoxied on to an appropriate sized funnel to adapt to the water can??

BTW if you used a yoke and two ropes the cans could be bigger meaning 
less trips or you could go with the rose/funnel on the end of two flex 
hoses and a back mounted tank. The handles on the funnels could be put 
to use then for directing the flow.  I've seen barrel packs made for 
canoeing which were just 20 litre barrels with a harness made to fit 
them. Way less tiring to carry a load on your back than arms. A plastic 
bowl could be welded to a funnel with a heat gun and pliers to crimp the 
hot plastic and then you wouldn't have the glue/solder issue and it 
could be all made from recycled stuff.

I'm just sayin'you did say to think outside of the box ( err...can)  
right?

Joe




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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Keith Addison
Hi Joe

Hi Keith;

If I had to make something like that I would look around for something
that already had the shape and see if I could modify it to work.

I've been doing that for 28 years!

There
are metal bowls for example.  I have some stainless ones in my kitchen. 
There is a flat but I would guess that it is small enough and in the
center it shouldn't make so much of a difference.  This would require
only a pattern of holes to be drilled and the bowl could be soldered or
epoxied on to an appropriate sized funnel to adapt to the water can??

The funnel is easy enough to make, the bit that fits over the end of 
the spout, and the bit that expands out to the rose is also easy. I 
have some stainless steel pet feed bowls we use for water for nesting 
ducks, which would almost do, but the flat is a bit too big, it would 
make a difference.

My focus in this, and the focus of the Chinese watering-cans web 
page, isn't to make roses for myself, it's a guide for other people 
to make them, especially poor farmers in 3rd World rural communities. 
Not only them, but that's the bottom line.

So what I can find around the place and adapt might not have much 
relevance to their situation. For instance, I've looked at the ball 
in ball-cock valves in flush toilets, but I don't think you find many 
flush toilets in such places. Or I hope not anyway.

BTW if you used a yoke and two ropes the cans could be bigger meaning
less trips or you could go with the rose/funnel on the end of two flex
hoses and a back mounted tank. The handles on the funnels could be put
to use then for directing the flow.  I've seen barrel packs made for
canoeing which were just 20 litre barrels with a harness made to fit
them. Way less tiring to carry a load on your back than arms. A plastic
bowl could be welded to a funnel with a heat gun and pliers to crimp the
hot plastic and then you wouldn't have the glue/solder issue and it
could be all made from recycled stuff.

The Chinese farmers I worked with used yokes, but I could never get 
used to them. I've tried them here since, but I found just the two 
cans work better for me. You just grip the handles with your hands 
and let the cans hang at arm's length, you don't need to lift them. 
They're very well balanced, it's no effort to tip them forward. They 
more or less pour themselves.

I'm not quite sure what you mean, whether it includes the cans too, 
or just the back-pack and two spouts with handles. Without the cans 
it wouldn't have anything like the same spread (it wouldn't throw 
the water), meaning more trips for refills. With the cans, I think 
you'd be carrying too much weight. If it were a toss-up between a 
heavier load and more walking back with empty cans, I'd go for more 
walking.

When the cans are full, it's a 30-32 kg load, plus the weight of the 
cans, which don't weight much. Okay for a man, and okay for a woman 
too, but maybe only just. That's why I've been resisting ideas that 
mean any extra weight.

The old wooden cans held 24 litres each, that's a 48 kg load plus the 
weight of the wood, too heavy, even with yokes to transfer much of 
the weight to your back. No wonder they abandoned them in favour of 
the metal cans.

I'm just sayin'you did say to think outside of the box ( err...can) 
right?

:-) Right.

Thanks - best

Keith

Joe


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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Joe Street
What I was picturing was a large tank carried on the back with two 
flexible hoses  with the rose on the end of each.  The head pressure 
from holding the water almost a meter above would result in a larger 
spray fan actually than you could get from a can.  The handles for the 
roses could be designed like a kind of wand so that you could get the 
spray the right distance from the body if it turns out the fan is large 
enough to warrant that. I imagine it would.

Joe

Keith Addison wrote:

SNIP


I'm not quite sure what you mean, whether it includes the cans too, 
or just the back-pack and two spouts with handles. Without the cans 
it wouldn't have anything like the same spread (it wouldn't throw 
the water), meaning more trips for refills. With the cans, I think 
you'd be carrying too much weight. If it were a toss-up between a 
heavier load and more walking back with empty cans, I'd go for more 
walking.

  




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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Joe Street
Another idea that just popped up (pun  intended) is what about adapting 
the ubiquitous PET pop bottle?  I wonder with the right amount of heat 
if the end of one of those could be 'blown' in the way the glass blowers 
do to make a nice round end and then it could be easily adapted to fit 
on the can, hose or whatever.  These things are everywhere and perhaps 
this could be done without a heat gun in third world conditions by more 
traditionl means?

Joe


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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Keith Addison
Hello Joe

I'm sceptical.

First, it wouldn't be almost a meter as you say, it's barely even 
half a metre, unless you've figured a not-overcomplicated way of 
piping the water out of the top of the backpack tank instead of the 
bottom.

Could be wrong, as ever, but even if it were a whole metre, I doubt 
it would come close to the throw from a Chinese-type watering can at 
its usual gentle tip angle, not even if you did clever things to 
optimise the flow-rate and pressure through the pipes to the roses.

If you're still talking of a 20-litre tank, that would be the 
equivalent of two 10-litre watering cans, which is too small. That's 
the size of a gardener's can, great for watering the roses but not 
much use if you have a couple of hundred square metres to cover. The 
15-16 litre size of a Chinese can is just right for that (but not 
much use for flowers). But I don't think a 32-litre tank would give a 
better throw either.

I also don't think the handles for the roses would give any more 
control than you get with these well-balanced cans.

Actually, I'd forgotten about it, but there was an old backpack 
sprayer here that I tried once. Pesticide sprays, yuk. There were a 
couple of them, one the usual kind with the motor and a wand with a 
nozzle, the other was older, no motor, gravity fed, quite light, with 
a 6-cm flexible hose ending in a sort of spray affair, which was a 
bit broken. I washed it all out carefully and got it to work, sort 
of, and tried it with compost tea, but the results weren't very 
happy. That was years ago. I haven't got it now or I'd take another 
look at it. I think we gave it to one of the recycling guys who do 
the rounds here, along with the other spray. and quite a lot of other 
stuff we didn't need.

Well, it's an interesting idea, but I think it crosses the KISS 
barrier, and I reckon the Chinese cans would work better anyway.

Thanks - all best

Keith


What I was picturing was a large tank carried on the back with two
flexible hoses  with the rose on the end of each.  The head pressure
from holding the water almost a meter above would result in a larger
spray fan actually than you could get from a can.  The handles for the
roses could be designed like a kind of wand so that you could get the
spray the right distance from the body if it turns out the fan is large
enough to warrant that. I imagine it would.

Joe

Keith Addison wrote:

SNIP


I'm not quite sure what you mean, whether it includes the cans too,
or just the back-pack and two spouts with handles. Without the cans
it wouldn't have anything like the same spread (it wouldn't throw
the water), meaning more trips for refills. With the cans, I think
you'd be carrying too much weight. If it were a toss-up between a
heavier load and more walking back with empty cans, I'd go for more
  walking.


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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Keith Addison
Hi Dawie

Keith

It would certainly help if I had an anvil, but I don't. I couldn't
get one in Hong Kong, and here in Japan I can't afford one, they're
very expensive (nothing's cheap in Japan) (except junk), and I've
  never come across a 2nd-hand one. I suppose metal workshops in 3rd
  World rural towns do have anvils.

A short piece of railway rail works well. Japan does a lot with railways:

Indeed they do, very nice too.

perhaps someone has an odd offcut?-D

Yes - I do. :-/

I forgot about that. Hm. I obviously haven't been spending enough 
time in my workshop. That'll change soon.

The bit of railway line is the other half of my half-assed RSJ 
wannabe anvil. I was very pleased when I found it. I've often used it.

Last time I saw an anvil for sale was in a big toolshop in Kyoto, and 
beside it was a bit of railway line just like mine. I don't remember 
the price, but I remember saying Wow! Nothing's cheap in Japan.

I just went to the workshop to check the rail line (it's there, 
good), and found something I didn't even know was there that would 
make a good rose for a Chinese watering can. It's a small wok, about 
18 cm across. A bit too thick, but it would work, and it probably 
wouldn't be too difficult to beat it thinner, since it's already the 
right shape. I suppose metal workshops in rural towns in SE Asia 
could make woks as well as can roses. Me though, I couldn't have made 
a wok either. Maybe now I could.

Um, it wasn't sloppy of me not to have noticed it before, by the way. 
You haven't seen my workshop. It's in an old shed at the back, with 
three rooms and two lofts containing a 100-year accumulation by 
thrifty village folk of anything that looked as if it might be useful 
some day. Many layers, full of hidden secrets. (But no anvil.)

Thanks!

Keith



From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Sent: Fri, 5 November, 2010 12:39:42
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

Hi Jason

Thanks, that's very instructive.

It would certainly help if I had an anvil, but I don't. I couldn't
get one in Hong Kong, and here in Japan I can't afford one, they're
very expensive (nothing's cheap in Japan) (except junk), and I've
never come across a 2nd-hand one. I suppose metal workshops in 3rd
World rural towns do have anvils.

I do have a good selection of hammers though, maybe a dozen or so
different types. Instead of an anvil I use a 15-inch-long section of
12-inch rolled steel joist, not ideal, but it's useful, eg:
http://journeytoforever.org/bflpics/discblades.jpg
- flattening rotovator blades to turn it into a small, powered, disc
harrow (discovator?), which works very well. (I sharpened the blades
and adjusted it so it only cuts 2-3 inches deep, chops everything up
and mixes it in, without creating a clay pan.)

Anyway, I think I might manage this without an anvil.

Thanks again - all best

Keith

snip


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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Brian Burke
Dawie
  If you want to dome a disc shape put it over a soft material, and hammer
the inside of the disc.  In metalworking a soft base is usually a shot bag,
but even a block of wood with a hollowed dish shape carved into it will
work, or even on the end grain of a softwood that is flat.
  By hammering on the dolly you will stretch the material and not get what
you want, and you do not even need heat.  By hammering the inside will not
make it weaker or even much thinner if you hammer off dolly.  The largest
amount of thinning is caused by on dolly work.
  Hope this helps

Brian
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Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

2010-11-05 Thread Ivan Menchero
Hi Keith,

Then the original solution I think is ingenious and simple, it might take a 
little try with the angle of the curvature of the small piece of metal but I 
if you have a welding machine would not be too difficult thru trial and 
error, and a lot less time consuming than making a rose.
If you go with the rose, a pipe like a gutter would do and it is thin enough 
to be easily malleable.

Regards,

Ivan

--
From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2010 8:56 PM
To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

 Hello Ivan

Since the ideas are getting more wild...

 ???

Somebody mention a car yank yard, from there you might be able to
find an old hub cup.

 Not convex enough.

How about cutting a circle out of a BIG PIPE, you would have half of
the problem solve (one axes).

 That might help if it were thick metal, but it's not.

If you must hammer (I think this is a manly project and you either
like to hammer or just want to make it to perfection as a hobby)

 Think away then, you're welcome. I suppose some people have lots of
 time on their hands, but I'm not one of them, and no, I don't enjoy
 hammering, I don't have hobbies, and what's required is a practical
 solution, not perfection (which should be obvious).

how about hammering against something semi hard so when you hammer
it would gave it a little (the log idea or even thick leather)

 I don't see how that would help either.

To tell you the truth I don't understand why does it have to be of a
dome shape, I think it would work almost the same straight.

 I think the operative phrase there is I don't understand. Why don't
 you try it? You might get about a quarter of the coverage, which
 would mean four times as much work for the same result. Do you really
 think people are that dumb that they'd go to the considerable extra
 trouble of making domed roses if it had no effect? Unless they're
 just toys, ALL watering-can roses are convex and always have been,
 because it works much better that way.

Happy tinkering,

 Looks like it needs some emphasis - it's not fun, it's not a game,
 it's work, it has a serious purpose.

 Keith


Ivan


--
From: Michael Fleetwood [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 6:39 PM
To: sustainablelorgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] A metalworking question

  Hi Keith,

  Can you make a depression in the end of a hardwood log and hammer the
  tin into shape with a ball hammer or a wooden shaper?

  Or if its to hard to make the dome could you use a long tin can or a
  length of tube with holes in it?

  mike.

  At 08:29 PM 3/11/2010, you wrote:
  Hi Dawie

 snip


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