Re: [Biofuel] Bio Engine Oil

2012-01-21 Thread C Pinelli

Thanks everyone for the input. Though it's unfortunate that there seems to be 
no DIY solution for lubrication, I think It'll give me something to tinker with 
over the next couple of months.


Thanks 
Chris

 Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2012 09:11:29 -0700
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: sustainablelorgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Bio Engine Oil
 
 Bio based, no... but I have seen, in the last few months, introduction of a
 whole line of recycled engine oils in the local auto parts stores here.
 I'm not really sure what the recycled content is percentage wise, but
 apparently it's using old engine oil, filtering all the bad stuff out, and
 adding back in the additives that have been used up.  It's supposed to meet
 the same standards as new petro-based engine oil.
 
 Z
 
 On Sat, Jan 21, 2012 at 7:29 AM, Jan Warnqvist 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hello Keith et al.
  I am not surprised on the market non-introduction of castor oil lubricants.
  Castor oil, although a classic, is not ideal as a raw material for
  lubricant
  formulations. The castor oil has two hydroxyl groups on the fatty acid
  (ricinic acid) chain which will want to polymerize and releasing water into
  the system, giving the lubricant an unnecessary short life. What attracts
  the lubricant inventors is the high viscosity and the expected high
  viscosity index of the oil which both looks promising enough. But I would
  prefer a more stable material to start with and then adjusting the
  viscosity
  values chemically.
  A good lubricant consist from a base oil and then added a number of
  additives in order to adjust the properties of the lubricant. It is then
  preferable to bring as favourable properties already in the base oil in
  order to minimize the addition of additives.
 
  Best to you all
  Jan W
  - Original Message -
  From: Keith Addison [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2012 2:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Bio Engine Oil
 
 
   Hi Chris and Dawie
  
   The answer seems to be No. Sorry to say.
  
   It was first discussed here in 2001. Lots of interesting stuff in the
   list archives:
   http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/
  
   Try bio engine oil or biolubricant.
  
   (Don't forget, the whole thread is hotlinked at the end of each find.)
  
   If you do a web search, you'll find lots of talk, lots of products
   that are simply biodegradeable, green lubricants to replace the
   likes of WD-40 or 2-stroke oil, and a few commercial bio engine oils,
   with claims that they're made from renewable resources but they don't
   say what, or they're a marriage of renewables (pig fat) and
   nano-tech, or whatever, but nothing DIYable.
  
   I knew some people in Japan who were making bio engine oil from
   castor oil. They wouldn't tell me how they were doing it, but they
   gave me a bottle of it. Clear, light yellow, sort of oily smell. But
   after a while it started degrading, whisps of cloudiness started
   appearing. Not perfect, and they never brought a product to market.
  
   Still, castor oil is probably the best bet. It's strange stuff - give
   this a read:
   http://www.georgiacombat.com/CASTOR_OIL.htm
  
   IIRC Brazil's Petrobras had plans for producing castor oil-based
   engine oil, but I can't find any details.
  
   HTH, and good luck - best
  
   Keith
  
  
  This is something I've also been wondering about.-D
  
  
From: C Pinelli [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Sent: Saturday, 21 January 2012, 1:56
  Subject: [Biofuel] Bio Engine Oil
  
  
  Hi all.
  I'm still new to biofuels but have been making biodiesel and
  ethanol for my vehicles for a few months now and am thrilled with
  it. However, I can't stand filling up my gas tank with home made,
  environmentally friendly fuel, then changing the oil with expensive
  petroleum. So, I have been doing some research into making
  Bio-Engine Oil, it seems possible which makes me very enthusiastic.
  
  Does anybody know anything about making vegetable based motor oil?
  Or does anybody have any experience with using it?
  
  Thanks very much
Chris
  
  
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[Biofuel] Bio Engine Oil

2012-01-20 Thread C Pinelli

Hi all.
I'm still new to biofuels but have been making biodiesel and ethanol for my 
vehicles for a few months now and am thrilled with it. However, I can't stand 
filling up my gas tank with home made, environmentally friendly fuel, then 
changing the oil with expensive petroleum. So, I have been doing some research 
into making Bio-Engine Oil, it seems possible which makes me very enthusiastic.

Does anybody know anything about making vegetable based motor oil? Or does 
anybody have any experience with using it?

Thanks very much
Chris
  
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Re: [Biofuel] Basic Questions, Major Problems: Biofuel Batches

2011-09-23 Thread C Pinelli

Again, I have not tritrated because it is virgin oil. Should I?

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: sustainablelorgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 00:06:00 -0500
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Basic Questions, Major Problems: Biofuel Batches
 
 
 what's the titration of your oil? even if it's new doesn't mean its clean, or 
 even dry.
  
 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 10:55:31 -0400
  Subject: [Biofuel] Basic Questions, Major Problems: Biofuel Batches
  
  
  Hi all, 
  
  my name's Chris, I've been an avid ethanol brewer for a couple years and 
  I'm shifting into biodiesel now with the help of the amazing Journey To 
  Forever site. I've been trying for about 6 months in my spare time but have 
  had almost no success with test batches. and I'm just about at my wit's 
  end. I need some help. I thought if I laid out my proceedure and questions 
  someone might be able to point out something that I'm doing wrong.
  
  I start by filling an old pot with water, and placing a 4L HDPE jug in it. 
  I use that jug to mix the oil. I pour the vegetable oil (usually Canola) 
  into the jug, and heat to 55'C. 
  
  While that is heating, I measure out 200mL of 100% Methanol and 5.454g of 
  90% KOH. Mixing them together quickly in a glass jar to avoid air 
  contamination. 
  
  I add the methoxide to the oil and begin mixing. I use an electric drill on 
  a homemade stand and a small steel paint mixer that attaches to the drill 
  for mixing. Usually on low settings because it vibrates quite alot.
  
  I make sure to maintain the heat during the reaction, and I've varied my 
  processing times from 20 Minutes to 90 Minutes.
  
  Afterwards, I pour out the mixture into a 2L PET bottle, and let settle for 
  24 hours. I then drain the by-product by unscrewing the cap. I usually let 
  it resettle after and drain it again after another 12 hours just in case.
  
  Then I do the wash and methanol tests in 500mL PET bottles. I've had good 
  results with the methanol tests mostly. But have only ever passed the wash 
  test once, and that I think was a fluke as I havent been able to duplicate 
  it. 
  
  I've tried changing the methoxide mixture between 175mL-250mL of methanol 
  and 5g-6-g of KOH, but that hasn't helped a tremendous amount. I find that 
  I usually get better results with more methanol.
  
  I'm concerned that my KOH might be contaminated, is there a sign when it 
  is? Also, is there any difference between using KOH flakes or pellets? As I 
  use flakes.
  
  I have not tritrated as I have I have been using virgin oil.
  
  I sometimes get clear biodiesel and very murky water, sometimes it's 
  completely congealed, and sometimes there is separation but a large 
  interface layer.
  
  Please, any help would be awesome.
  Thanks,
  Chris Pinelli 
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[Biofuel] Basic Questions, Major Problems: Biofuel Batches

2011-09-21 Thread C Pinelli

Hi all, 
 
my name's Chris, I've been an avid ethanol brewer for a couple years and I'm 
shifting into biodiesel now with the help of the amazing Journey To Forever 
site. I've been trying for about 6 months in my spare time but have had almost 
no success with test batches. and I'm just about at my wit's end. I need some 
help. I thought if I laid out my proceedure and questions someone might be able 
to point out something that I'm doing wrong.
 
I start by filling an old pot with water, and placing a 4L HDPE jug in it. I 
use that jug to mix the oil. I pour the vegetable oil (usually Canola) into the 
jug, and heat to 55'C. 
 
While that is heating, I measure out 200mL of 100% Methanol and 5.454g of 90% 
KOH. Mixing them together quickly in a glass jar to avoid air contamination. 
 
I add the methoxide to the oil and begin mixing. I use an electric drill on a 
homemade stand and a small steel paint mixer that attaches to the drill for 
mixing. Usually on low settings because it vibrates quite alot.
 
I make sure to maintain the heat during the reaction, and I've varied my 
processing times from 20 Minutes to 90 Minutes.
 
Afterwards, I pour out the mixture into a 2L PET bottle, and let settle for 24 
hours. I then drain the by-product by unscrewing the cap. I usually let it 
resettle after and drain it again after another 12 hours just in case.
 
Then I do the wash and methanol tests in 500mL PET bottles. I've had good 
results with the methanol tests mostly. But have only ever passed the wash test 
once, and that I think was a fluke as I havent been able to duplicate it. 
 
I've tried changing the methoxide mixture between 175mL-250mL of methanol and 
5g-6-g of KOH, but that hasn't helped a tremendous amount. I find that I 
usually get better results with more methanol.
 
I'm concerned that my KOH might be contaminated, is there a sign when it is? 
Also, is there any difference between using KOH flakes or pellets? As I use 
flakes.
 
I have not tritrated as I have I have been using virgin oil.
 
I sometimes get clear biodiesel and very murky water, sometimes it's completely 
congealed, and sometimes there is separation but a large interface layer.
 
Please, any help would be awesome.
Thanks,
Chris Pinelli 
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Re: [Biofuel] How do I get the paper thin white layer

2011-09-12 Thread C Pinelli

I have not tritrated the oil, as it is new oil that I have been using. 
I've been meaning to pick up some chemicals for tritration, 
unfortunately my schedule hasn't permitted me to do so lately. 
Is tritration necessary for new oils?
 

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: sustainablelorgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 15:44:01 +0200
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] How do I get the paper thin white layer
 
 Hello C Pinelli. Did you check the FFA and water contents on your raw 
 material before processing ? FFA levels above 5 mg KOH/g (2,5%) will produce 
 a lot of soaps, making the processing bad and the separation even worse. The 
 water content will promote the soap production and will also compete with 
 the methanol. The highest acceptable water content is around 1,5% and the 
 lower the better.
 - Original Message - 
 From: C Pinelli [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: sustainablelorgbiofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 3:26 PM
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] How do I get the paper thin white layer
 
 
 
  I am having a similar problem, I have experience making ethanol 
  successfully, but I'm new to biodiesel.
  I've been trying to get it right for some time with many many test 
  batches, without too much success.
  I've followed the instructions as closely as possible, but still can't 
  quite get it right. I use 90% KOH Flakes,
  a scale thats accurate to the hundreth of a gram, and am incredibly 
  meticulous in my measurements.
  I've had mixed (but mostly good)results with the methanol test, but have 
  never consistantly passed the
  wash test. Sometimes I get a very thick separation line between the two, 
  sometimes I get clear water on
  the bottom with a yellowy mayo like substance on top. Sometimes it seems 
  to have the reverse result,
  where it appears to be clear biodiesel on top, with very murky white water 
  underneath.
 
  I've tried various amount of KOH and methanol, and varying my processing 
  times, but I can't seem to get it
  down. As soon as my schedule permits, I'm going to try to get some new 
  chemicals, because im worried
  that my lye might be water contaminated.
 
  Any help deciphering these results would be really appreciated.
 
 
  Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 12:51:30 -0500
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
  Subject: [Biofuel] How do I get the paper thin white layer
 
  Hello to all. I've made two test batches of biodiesel using new oil using
  the instructions on the JTF site, which I've read and re-read, along with
  many of the mailing list posts. I'm enjoying everything I'm learning, but
  still have a ton to learn. I also have a question. In both my test 
  batches
  I've performed the quality tests recommended. The fuel passes the 
  methanol
  test fine, with no glycerine settling out. When I come to the wash test, 
  I
  have perhaps an eighth of an inch of white foam between the water and the
  biodiesel. It separates quite well though. I've tried to follow all
  instructions to the letter and I ordered my chemicals from DudaDiesel, so 
  I
  assume they are a good quality. I assume the foam is soap. It could be 
  that
  my measurements aren't precise enough, but if they aren't it's because of 
  my
  instruments. I have been very meticulous in my measurements.
 
  I've gone ahead and washed the biodiesel from both batches, and they also
  have a lot of white foam, although they also separate very quickly. With
  both batches I've just kept washing until there's no more white junk and 
  the
  water is clear. Does this take care of the soap (if that's what it is), 
  or
  is there still something to be concerned about? Also, any suggestions on 
  how
  to get that paper thin white layer instead of the thicker one I have 
  now?
  I'm using new oil, what I think are quality chemicals, and I'm being as
  meticulous as I know how to be. As far as I know, I'm following your
  instructions to the letter.
 
  I thank you for your help,
 
  Ian
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Re: [Biofuel] How do I get the paper thin white layer

2011-09-10 Thread C Pinelli

I am having a similar problem, I have experience making ethanol successfully, 
but I'm new to biodiesel. 
I've been trying to get it right for some time with many many test batches, 
without too much success. 
I've followed the instructions as closely as possible, but still can't quite 
get it right. I use 90% KOH Flakes, 
a scale thats accurate to the hundreth of a gram, and am incredibly meticulous 
in my measurements. 
I've had mixed (but mostly good)results with the methanol test, but have never 
consistantly passed the 
wash test. Sometimes I get a very thick separation line between the two, 
sometimes I get clear water on 
the bottom with a yellowy mayo like substance on top. Sometimes it seems to 
have the reverse result, 
where it appears to be clear biodiesel on top, with very murky white water 
underneath.
 
I've tried various amount of KOH and methanol, and varying my processing times, 
but I can't seem to get it 
down. As soon as my schedule permits, I'm going to try to get some new 
chemicals, because im worried 
that my lye might be water contaminated.
 
Any help deciphering these results would be really appreciated. 
 

 Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 12:51:30 -0500
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 Subject: [Biofuel] How do I get the paper thin white layer
 
 Hello to all. I've made two test batches of biodiesel using new oil using
 the instructions on the JTF site, which I've read and re-read, along with
 many of the mailing list posts. I'm enjoying everything I'm learning, but
 still have a ton to learn. I also have a question. In both my test batches
 I've performed the quality tests recommended. The fuel passes the methanol
 test fine, with no glycerine settling out. When I come to the wash test, I
 have perhaps an eighth of an inch of white foam between the water and the
 biodiesel. It separates quite well though. I've tried to follow all
 instructions to the letter and I ordered my chemicals from DudaDiesel, so I
 assume they are a good quality. I assume the foam is soap. It could be that
 my measurements aren't precise enough, but if they aren't it's because of my
 instruments. I have been very meticulous in my measurements.
 
 I've gone ahead and washed the biodiesel from both batches, and they also
 have a lot of white foam, although they also separate very quickly. With
 both batches I've just kept washing until there's no more white junk and the
 water is clear. Does this take care of the soap (if that's what it is), or
 is there still something to be concerned about? Also, any suggestions on how
 to get that paper thin white layer instead of the thicker one I have now?
 I'm using new oil, what I think are quality chemicals, and I'm being as
 meticulous as I know how to be. As far as I know, I'm following your
 instructions to the letter.
 
 I thank you for your help,
 
 Ian
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Re: [Biofuel] Time for U.S. to say yes to Canadian oil sands

2011-09-02 Thread C Pinelli

From my personal standpoint as a Canadian, I find it funny how they sight 
stengthening the strategic alliance between 
Canada and the United States, when the only strategy I can personally see is 
the destruction of massive amounts of land 
and waterways to pipe ecologically unsound oil thousands of miles to the US, 
just to turn around and sell it for a higher
price in Canada.

As well, as for the Canadian government's decision to continue developing the 
oil sands, it seems that China, or any other asian 
country, has had little to no influence, whereas the United States has been the 
prime customer in mind.


My two cents
-Chris





The real benefit would be to strengthen the strategic alliance 
between Canada and the United States. Canada's oil exports now go 
almost exclusively to us. Our interest is for this to continue. From 
2010 to 2020, oil sands production is projected to double to 3 
million barrels a day; most of that would be available for export. On 
paper, it might seem that Canada should diversify its oil customers. 
Not so. Canada's prospects are so tied to ours that any narrow 
advantage of having more buyers would vanish if that weakened the 
U.S. economy.
 
The United States and Canada are each other's largest trading 
partners and closest allies. Oil markets are subtly changing, as more 
countries - led by China - seek preferential access to scarce global 
supplies. In the future, security of supply may matter as much as 
price. The more we can reduce oil demand and increase supply 
stability, the better off we'll be. On oil sands, we should just say 
yes.  

 Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 19:30:58 +0200
 To: biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [Biofuel] Time for U.S. to say yes to Canadian oil sands
 
 Really?
 
 http://search.japantimes.co.jp:80/mail/eo20110831rs.html
 
 Wednesday, Aug. 31, 2011
 
 Time for U.S. to say yes to Canadian oil sands
 
 By ROBERT J. SAMUELSON
 
 The Washington Post
 
 WASHINGTON - When it comes to energy, America is lucky to be next to 
 Canada, whose proven oil reserves are estimated by Oil and Gas 
 Journal at 175 billion barrels.
 
 This ranks just behind Saudi Arabia (260 billion) and Venezuela (211 
 billion) and ahead of Iran (137 billion) and Iraq (115 billion). 
 True, about 97 percent of Canada's reserves consist of Alberta's 
 controversial oil sands, but new technologies and high oil prices 
 have made them economically viable. Expanded production can provide 
 the U.S. market with a growing source of secure oil for decades.
 
 We would be crazy to turn our back on this. In a global oil market 
 repeatedly threatened by wars, revolutions, and natural and man-made 
 disasters - and where government-owned oil companies control 
 development of about three-quarters of known reserves - having 
 dependable suppliers is no mean feat. We already import about half 
 our oil, and Canada is our largest supplier with about 25 percent of 
 imports. As its conventional fields decline, oil sands can fill the 
 gap.
 
 Will we encourage this? Do we say yes to oil sands? Or do we 
 increase our exposure to unstable world oil markets?
 
 Those are the central questions posed by the proposed $7 billion 
 Keystone XL pipeline connecting Alberta's oil sands to U.S. 
 refineries on the Texas Gulf coast. The pipeline requires White House 
 approval, and environmentalists oppose it.
 
 To be sure, there are dangers. Pipelines do crack; there are spills. 
 Susan Casey-Lefkowitz of the Natural Resource Defense Council reminds 
 of recent spills of about 3.8 million liters into the Kalamazoo River 
 in Michigan and more than 151,000 liters into the Yellowstone River 
 in Montana. Moreover, converting the bitumen found in oil sands 
 into oil is messy. Some processes have required up to two barrels of 
 water for every barrel of oil. Because energy use is also high, so 
 are greenhouse gases. On a per-barrel basis, emissions have sometimes 
 been double and triple that of standard oil production.
 
 Environmentalists are outraged. They've made Keystone into a cause 
 celebre. Sit-ins outside the White House have led to arrests. For 
 President Obama to approve the pipeline would be regarded by his 
 environmental supporters as a complete betrayal.
 
 Actually, the reality is more complex. If Obama rejects the pipeline, 
 he would - perversely - increase greenhouse gas emissions. Canada has 
 made clear that it will proceed with oil sands development regardless 
 of the American decision. If the United States doesn't want the oil, 
 China and other Asian countries do. Pipelines would be built to the 
 West Coast. Transporting the oil by tanker to Asia would almost 
 certainly create more emissions than moving it by pipeline to closer 
 U.S. markets.
 
 Next, oil sands' greenhouse gases are exaggerated. Despite high 
 per-barrel emissions, the cumulative total is not large: about 6.5 
 percent of Canada's emissions in 2009 and about 0.2 percent of