Re: [time-nuts] Telephone network timing (was GPS Outage..)
Mark Spencer wrote: > I'd be curious to know how many carriers have a > reference source other than GPS for their "data > line sync." Fifteen-ish years ago when I was in wireline telecom, most offices used a Telecom Solutions (later Symmetricom) DCD-LPR as the local primary reference for the BITS clock. The LPR accepts various cards, including GPS and LORAN-C receivers, and while every single office had a GPS card, I saw at least a few that also had a LORAN-C card slotted. I don't remember exactly how many. I don't know what ever became of them, but I haven't run across any in surplus. Haven't been looking specifically, though. LPR manual: http://www.syncworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/DCD-LPR-Manual.pdf ... Poul-Henning Kamp wrote: > The BSTJ contains some very interesting articles about how > synchronization got introduced and rolled out in the telephone > network originally. > > You can find them on archive.org My (admittedly US-centric) understanding is that prior to the building-integrated timing supply (BITS) concept, there was a master oscillator which was used to time a DS-1 signal, which was then fanned out across the country and distributed to any equipment that needed it. The master was in Kansas City, being roughly central to the continental US. I only interacted tangentially with this system, when we replaced some of the Synchronization Distribution Expander (SDE) equipment with BITS equipment (DCD-whatevers). The SDE documentation refers to an "Office Timing Supply (OTS)", but that appears to be a generic term rather than a specific piece of equipment, and I'm not finding much information about it. As far as I can infer, that was the gear directly involved in receiving the signal from the upstream source(s), and presumably providing some modicum of source selection and holdover, but that's speculation on my part. SDE manual: http://www.ridethemindway.com/phones/Disk_1/Bell_Sytstem_Practices_000-000-000_to_500-000-000/314-913-220_I4.pdf One of the more interesting aspects of an SDE-to-DCD cutover was checking for timing slips between the sources, and the T-Berd analyzers had a differential timing mode for just this purpose. In this mode, both of the T-1 inputs are used, and their frame timing offset is displayed (with a nice bargraph on the VFD, as I recall). Static offset was expected, but any drift was cause to abort the cutover and get on the phone with someone at a higher pay grade. ;) More on frame slip measurements: http://www.reeve.com/Documents/Sync%20Testing%20R3.pdf -Nate B- ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt power connector crimper
Hi Matt, There are lots of options, and what's best for you will depend on what else comes across your bench. I'm a member of a hackerspace with all of these on the wall and more, so I have personal experience with all of the below: I suspect this is the Radio Shack tool Brooke refers to, it's a solid performer and dirt cheap, but the jaws are too thick for some of the smaller stuff (JST's and the like):http://www.ebay.com/itm/291470824600 Slightly more expensive, but noticeably nicer, are these, all of which have appropriate nests for what you're doing, and the Engineer models range down to smaller stuff in case you work with JST connectors, etc:http://www.adafruit.com/search?q=crimperb=1 Towards the larger end, these start down at the size you're working with, and range way up to automotive-style terminals for ECU harnesses and stuff, these are what I personally reach for most of the time:http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/111_112_170/products_id/364 Also, George's suggestion of the AMP Service Tool is a solid choice if you can find one. $50 is a bit steep but it's worth keeping your eyes out at garage sales and pawn shops. -Nate B- George Dubovsky wrote: Hi Matt, Any of the AMP Service Tools - I have the I and II - will work. Positions A and B (for the conductor and the insulation respectively) on Service Tool I or E and B on Service Tool II will work nicely. I suspect there are lots of other generic crimpers that will do the job as well. Heck, for just one connector, needle-nose pliers, a good magnifier, a soldering iron, and a dictionary of curse words will suffice... ;-) Good luck. 73, geo - n4ua On Mon, Jun 8, 2015 at 6:29 AM, Matt Robert matt.rob...@gmail.com wrote: Hi Guys, I am currently in the process of completing my Thunderbolt project and I need to find a suitable crimper to attach wires to the pins that go inside the power connector. The only reference I can find is on this page here ( http://www.prc68.com/I/ThunderBolt.shtml) that talks about the official Molex tool which is scarily expensive, and the page also mentioned a Radioshack tool that I can't find any further details on. Can someone please point me in the right direction of a suitable crimper for the Molex 538-16-02-0103 pins. Cheers, Matt VK2LK ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] pp2s? No, 1pps from a Nortel GPSTM!
As anyone with a Nortel GPSTM knows, it's a close cousin to the Thunderbolt but not exactly identical. Notably, coming from a CDMA environment, the unit has an even second output, aka PP2S, aka 0.5pps, aka 0.5Hz, etc. (Hoping to make this searchable...) There are software commands to configure this on the Thunderbolt too, but the GPSTM appears to have this function hard-coded into the PAL, and it can't be set back to PPS in software. However, there exists a PPS signal on the PCB, at TP13 between the Trimble chip and the PAL, discovered by some folks at the hackerspace here, during some noodling-around with an oscilloscope this afternoon. It's all documented here: https://www.i3detroit.org/wiki/Nortel_GPSTM This is for a NTBW50AA-11 module (single long board), other parts may have the signal in different places but I bet it's in there. Enjoy!-Nate B- ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] WAAS.....
Brian, WA1ZMS wrote: In my case, SW masking of hold-over alarms may be a shorter fix without any HW fixes. If you can mask short-duration alarms while still finding out about persistent ones, then yes, that's probably the most pragmatic solution. What's your holdover tolerance? Following from that, suppose a jammer parks nearby and doesn't leave in a timely fashion. How long does it take for the FCC to swoop in (do they swoop? in my mind they do) and find the source? Is that within your permissible holdover window? But back to your original WAAS question, it sounds like it's time to haul out the spare hardware and do some experiments! Even with the normal antenna, you should be able to assess the validity of the configuration. Will the receiver even let you specify just those few birds? It's almost a question of whether they bothered to code an error message for such a stunt... (This next part may deserve its own thread. Please edit the subject-line if replying to just this bit.) You might look into a CDMA-derived time source, long term. By working one stratum away from GPS, you'll be listening to a plurality of pilots, each of which is GPS-derived, and which are geographically diverse. A single GPS jammer shouldn't knock out more than one tower at a time, and even if the tower's local holdover OCXO isn't stellar and it begins to drift, your CDMA-derived receiver is continually comparing and assessing the different signals to discard the outliers. Ideally, it's like having a bunch of diverse receive sites feeding back to you on a jam-resistant (very strong) channel. Pessimistically, you've got no visibility into the internal operation of those sites, and the only way to infer their status is by comparing them against each other (or a local GPS receiver, if you're not presently jammed yourself). As far as I can tell, the CDMA receivers are less explored than GPS, so you'd be largely taking the manufacturer's word on a lot of things. 73 de NJ8Z ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] From Burt - K6OQK...
Okay, as long as we're talking New Year's, What's the time-nuttiest way to mark the occasion? I have this stuck in my head:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWM5bmzYRh0#t=1m40s -Nate B- John C. Westmoreland, P.E. wrote: Hello Burt, Yes - we also wish good health and much contentment in the New Year to you as well and to our fellow time-nuts! 73's and 88's as they apply!, John Audrey AJ6BC On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 10:28 PM, Burt I. Weiner b...@att.net wrote: Gang, Best wishes to all for good health and much contentment in the New Year. Burt Margaret Burt I. Weiner Associates Broadcast Technical Services Glendale, California U.S.A. b...@att.net http://www.biwa.cc K6OQK ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] PRS10 time to lock
At room temperature, mine takes about 3-4 minutes heating until the lamp will start. You'll see RbMon showing SD2 and AD4 at max values, then they'll settle back into something sensible once it lights up. After that, you're watching the DS signal values and hoping the (large, small) turns into (small, large). Mine had a blown capacitor in the lamp circuit, thus it wouldn't ignite; SD2 and AD4 never budged. I opened it up to find a cracked tantalum cap: http://imgur.com/bASgB After replacing the cap, I now get lamp ignition but it doesn't achieve lock. (Photocell signal AD9 very low.) Once I swear I saw RbMon claim it had locked, about 6 minutes after power-up, but a moment later it was back to unlocked state and it's never repeated that feat. No idea what happened there. I'm wondering whether one can simply use it as a nice (albeit power-hungry) OCXO. If given 1pps from GPS, will the quartz discipline itself even without the Rb loop running? -Nate B- Stephen Tompsett (G8LYB) wrote: Use the RbMon utility to monitor the unit's operation as it starts up to confirm that the lamp is started and the photocell is detecting a signal. Not long ago there were a number of units available for sale on Ebay that appeared to have a lamp problem. On 23/08/2013 02:10, Paul wrote: As I patiently wait for my PRS10 to lock I'm curious if there's a limit beyond which I should assume the unit is faulty. It does produce abount 10MHz (+- .2 Hz) and the oven current dropped at what I assume is operating temperature. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. -- Stephen Tompsett (G8LYB) ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] NTGS50AA Power supply
Open it up, you'll find a bridge rectifier as the first component on the incoming power. It's actually much easier to solder straight to the pins of that component, rather than trying to bodge something together that would poke into the backplane connector. :) I know there's a TSIP command for *other* units to change their PPS into PP2S (even second), so try throwing 8E-4E at this unit and see if you can change it the other way. Haven't had a chance to try it on the local one. -Nate- EB4APL wrote: Hello, According to a Nortel specification document (Dual Voltage Global Positioning System Timing Module (GPSTM) OEM General Specification Dataset Name: GSBW50AA), this GPSDO is dual voltage and can be powered either from -48 V or + 24 V systems. Mine is working from a 48 V power supply but I´m afraid to test it at 24 V because the polarity should be reversed and if my assumption is not true I can damage the unit. Do you know if these units are dual voltage or my documentation refers to other model?. Has anybody operated it at 24 V?. Another question, is there any internal 1PPS signal available? Of course, my unit is of ebay - China origin. Regards, Ignacio EB4APL ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt Monitor
Chris Albertson wrote: The TB is best kept in some light-out closet and who wants to stand of a step stool to read an LCD when a web interface could put a better display on your smart phone or computer I don't have a way to play with it right now, but in the single-user case, is LH Server.exe equivalent to a simple IP console server? If so, I think the low-hanging fruit would be to drop an old Lantronix serial port server into the rack, and just use your existing lan/wifi to run the client on your laptop or whatever. No custom anything. -Nate- ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] OT - USB to LPT Adapter - Does it exist?
I always feel guilty replying to off-topic threads, but this one just got interesting! At least most mailers make it easy to mute threads, so... J. L. Trantham wrote: My goal is to connect a BP Micro BP-1600, parallel port connected Universal Programmer, to a computer using USB. BP Micro makes the BP-1610 which does just this. It appears to be the same programmer, uses the same software, but connects via a USB port instead of a parallel port. Ahh, well there's the part you didn't tell us previously! Mainly, that the PC-side software already knows how to abstract those calls and send them over USB -- it's not hard-coded to bitbang the physical parallel port. That was the major stumbling block, and it's not a block at all. Odds are that BP Micro wanted to do as little work as possible to update their design, so they probably used standard silicon in front of the old parallel-based programmer circuit, with OEM drivers and just a custom USB VID/PID to make it enumerate properly. If we work on this assumption, the hack might be trivial indeed. Dissect the USB drivers that come with the software -- there should be hints in there about the chipset which it expects to see inside the 1610. Simply right-clicking all the DLLs and stuff should reveal a few signed by a silicon company, likely Cypress or FTDI. There may be hints as to the part number. Get your hands on that chip, preferably by finding a premade USB-to-parallel cable based on it. (These are usually just the datasheet example circuit.) You can find the expected VID/PID by peeking into the INF included with the 1610 software. Use the chipmaker's dev tools to reflash the USB chip with the appropriate VID/PID, and see if BPWin will talk to it. (Alternately, edit the INF with the existing VID/PID of the adapter you're using. This will make every similar USB-to-parallel cable enumerate as a BP1610, which is obviously the dirtiest hack ever, but may work just fine.) If the drivers load but the programmer won't initialize, then the ID parts are right but the connections are wrong. Likely the data lines are connected straight, and it's just the handshaking lines that might do things differently than the datasheet example. Working from the chip datasheet will be your guide as to the possibilities. Rots of ruck! -Nate- I have not had a chance to see the inside of the BP-1610 and would really appreciate some pictures if anyone has one, particularly the corner of the PCB that connects to the USB connection. All I have is an Actel Silicon Sculptor 3, also made by BP Micro, that looks like the BP-1710 (with the 'START' button) but connects via a USB port. On the main PCB of the BP-1600 and the SS3 are two, 2 row, 26 pin, connectors, one toward the back edge of the PCB toward the back panel and the other just inside the first connector. The inside connector directly connects to the parallel port on the back of the BP-1600. On the SS3, there is a small PCB that plugs into the same connector, takes a power input, and also has 6 pin connections to the other 26 pin connector. This small PCB has a USB connector that is connected to the back of the SS3 as the USB connection. These observations lead me to believe that it is possible to do a 'USB to parallel' adapter to make the connection. Of course, I don't have a clue about the onboard firmware that might be different to allow the unit to be recognized as a USB instead of a parallel port connected device. So, some 'experimenting' seems in order, after first trying to closely inspect the small PCB and try to reverse engineer it a bit. In the mean time, I have a collection of laptop's and desktop's with parallel port connectors so keeping the programmers humming is not a problem. Just would like to make the 'jump' to the 'modern era'. A project that has been in the back of my mind. I will probably try one of the adapters referred to. Thanks again for all the info. Joe -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of gandal...@aol.com Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 5:38 PM To: time-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT - USB to LPT Adapter - Does it exist? Hi Luis No problem, and it's much better anyway to hear from someone who's used it:-) I only took a quick look at the web site before and didn't see the self build instructions at that time, but having seen the SMD chip he's using I think asking for a price might be safer:-) I see from your earlier comments that you've used it ok with old programmers but on the page you've linked do he doesn't recommend that, have you come across any problems with this? Regards Nigel GM8PZR In a message dated 11/01/2013 20:15:15 GMT Standard Time, ct1...@gmail.com writes: Hi Nigel, I missed your post before my reply to Joe, so I made no mention to your suggestion. I have those
Re: [time-nuts] OT - USB to LPT Adapter - Does it exist?
J. L. Trantham wrote: Is there a way to connect a parallel port to a computer via USB? Not a device that shows up as 'USB Print Support' but, instead, shows up in Device Manager as an LPT port? I have been able to do it via PCMCIA to Parallel Port adapters but I have never found a USB device that would do this. Nope. Look at how the original PC LPT port works -- it's basically a buffer chip or two, connected to some address decoders, sitting at a particular spot (0x378) on the CPU's I/O bus. There's simply no way to abstract that -- it'd be like asking for USB RAM or a USB BIOS chip. As computers moved away from ISA, that I/O bus has changed somewhat in appearance; these days it exists almost solely within the southbridge chip and then gets squeezed across an LPC link to a super I/O chip, where the legacy peripherals live. It doesn't leave the motherboard. Software that writes to a lineprinter using the BIOS printer calls, can easily be hooked and redirected. The DOS NET program has done this for decades, as a way to use network printers. But your parallel-port programmer isn't acting like a printer, so the software isn't printing to it -- it's treating the LPT port as a generic 8-bit parallel I/O port, and bit-banging arbitrary signals over it. Software written to bitbang the port will have to be rewritten to use some other form of I/O. For the typical cases of bitbang interfacing, the FT245R is a very capable little chip, and can be dropped in place of the parallel port, to talk to legacy hardware. It just needs new software to take those raw IN and OUT instructions and fire them over an abstraction layer, which will pass them through the USB stack and out to the device. There is an exception -- If you're running legacy software under a modern OS that prevents raw hardware I/O anyway, it's possible to hook those IN and OUT instructions, and write a generic driver that passes the traffic over USB. It's slow, unstable, and basically a miracle if it works. But it's worth a try: http://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/bastelecke/Rund%20um%20den%20PC/USB2LPT/index.html.en Short of that, your best bet is an old Thinkpad with a hardware parallel port. Good luck! -Nathaniel- ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] single board PCs
Jim Lux wrote: the remote device isn't working well. With IMPI, you can actually mess with the bios. Supposedly it ls like really being there. Thanks, I'll take a look.. The ability to poke at the device remotely at a very low level is quite useful (e.g. if it's unattended). Pretty sure this is IPMI, the intelligent platform management interface. Some related terms to familiarize yourself with: ComBIOS: Lets you tinker with the BIOS settings and stuff over RS232, useless unless you're local or have a terminal server plugged into the thing, but nice for big-iron folks who are used to managing headless machines. DRAC: Dell Remote Access Card. iLO/iLOM: integrated Lights-Out (Management), HP nee Compaq's version IBM RSA: Remote Supervisor Adapter MegaRAC: AMI's Remote Access Controller Four versions of essentially the same thing, these are all console-over-network implementations that let you do crazy voodoo like feed virtual floppy and CDROM images to the thing and install an entire OS remotely, while redirecting the video framebuffer back to you. Sometimes the virtual video card requires funky driver support once the OS is installed, which can lead to awkwardness and pain. Each is tied to a specific vendor. IP KVM: Variously implemented, it's a separate box that does keyboard-video-mouse over a network, sometimes with additional virtualized USB peripherals including CDROMs and stuff for the above tricks with whatever machine you plug it into. Notably, the AdderLink products use VNC as the transport, so there are already clients for everything. Driverless, because it just plugs in where the regular UI devices would go. You'd want a model with passthrough, of course, so the local UI could still work. Depending on the degree of remote access you need, that may all be silly and expensive overkill. How much will the customer cry about downtime? Often a simple remote reboot will bring you back, and if that fails, you probably need hands on-site anyway. There's the $200 version: http://dataprobe.com/iboot-remote-reboot.php And the $2 version: http://www.i3detroit.com/reset-on-lan-an-ethernet-aware-remote-reboot-device-from-junkbox-parts aka http://preview.tinyurl.com/resetonlan Your best bet for the hardware itself would be any of the numerous embedded computing forums. Actually the car-PC folks (mp3car.com, etc) probably have a lot of relevant knowledge, though they represent a fairly price-sensitive market so take it with a grain of salt. If the end device will be thermally constrained, power turns into heat, so an efficient system makes sense. Heat requires fans, and fans make noise, so you know who has the best rundown of gutsy-but-low-power systems? SilentPCReview! Their audience is mostly building living-room PCs for entertainment, but set-top boxes doing HD video playback take a bit of grunt, after all, and their hardware review methodology is solid. But none of this is time-related. ;) -Nate- ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] PRS10 schematic or part identification help
Charles P. Steinmetz wrote: For schematics, see http://www.ko4bb.com/manuals/. Search for prs10. Aha, I don't know why I didn't see that when I searched around. Bookmarked! The response from this list, to a newbie with a probably-obvious problem, is incredibly helpful and welcoming. Thank you all! cdel...@juno.com wrote: It is indeed C900, I looked into a lamp assy. I had on hand and the silk screen is clearly marked. Cool, thanks. The old one was easy to remove, as the body crumbled and I could desolder the leads one at a time. Getting the new one in took a moment longer, as I had to cut an angle on the tip of my solder-sucker to get in there and clear the holes. Then it went in without much fuss, thankfully sparing me from having to remove the board. That attached PIX shows green corrosion on a folded metal plate connected to the power resistor lead. Mine appears to be a different revision as it lacks that plate, and there's no corrosion that I can see, merely some tantalum spoo and general evidence of high-temperature operation. I didn't attempt to clean the residue off, as I don't know the lamp envelope material, and am hesitant to hit it with random solvents. I put it all back together and powered it up with the cover off, and after the lamp values stabilized, I could see a faint glow through the peephole. Success! Sort of. I reinstalled the cover and it's been sitting a little over three hours now, but won't lock. RbMon shows that AD9, Photocell I/V is low, hovering around 0.157, and the DS detected signal values are low -- error signal wanders between -26 and +30, and the resonance signal never gets above 11. (Manual gives 800 as an example strong resonance.) I'm not sure where to go from here, so further input is most welcome. The photo I/V signal is available on an external board with just the outer cover removed. I could take a peek with a scope, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I've been letting it run with the cover installed, figuring that stray light through the peephole (especially modulated light from ye olde fluorescent fixtures) might interfere. Thanks and goodnight! :) -Nate- ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] PRS10 schematic or part identification help
Greetings, I'm new here! I'm tinkering with a discarded Symmetricom Timesource 2700 which won't lock. After letting it cook for a few days, the Rb alarms never went away, so I opened it up and connected directly to the serial pins of the PRS10 inside. This allowed me to run Stanford RbMon, which showed the high lamp drain, high fet voltage, and other symptoms of the lamp not starting. I did some digging and found that I'm not the first to experience this: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/2011-February/054588.html So, I opened the unit up and went whisker-hunting. Didn't find any, but inside the lamp enclosure, I found this: http://imgur.com/bASgB I'm fairly certain the cracked fellow on the left is the problem! Trouble is, there's either no silkscreen on this little board, or it's too charred to read. I'm pretty sure that's C900 (2.2uF 35V radial Tantalum), but I'd like to be sure before dropping one in there. The PRS10 manual has a full parts list and makes numerous references to the schematic, but the schematic itself isn't part of the document. Anyone able to confirm the identity of the part I'm looking at here? (Also, how the heck do I get it out of there? And should I attempt to clean the residue from the rest of the enclosure?) Thanks a bunch, -Nate- ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
