Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Why solder? Jus' clean and twist wire ends together and screw on wire nuts (orange ones so deer can see 'em) Have them pointing up or wrap with electrical tape. You end up with joint that can be opened if needed (deer season). Jus' mi 2 rubbles. Yuri bada BUm - Original Message - From: Bill McDowell Date: Tuesday, August 7, 2012 4:46 am Subject: Topband: Soldering in the wild! To: Topband Reflector If one has a conventional soldering iron that is not a gun it is very easy to carry it and a propane torch to the site. Just heat the tip with the torch and solder away. Heat will be retained by the tip long enough to get the job done. Reheat if necessary. 73 Bill, K4CIA ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
I'm not sure Deer can see the orange color. All the hunting clothing is orange, or camo orange, and supposedly the other hunters can then see each other but the deer don't see the orange color. Just a thought... You might be better off using red. -Bill Why solder? Jus' clean and twist wire ends together and screw on wire nuts (orange ones so deer can see 'em) Have them pointing up or wrap with electrical tape. You end up with joint that can be opened if needed (deer season). Jus' mi 2 rubbles. Yuri bada BUm ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
I believe the whole idea of the split bolt is that, properly tightened, it exerts enough pressure to crush through any existing corrosion and make a joint that is too tight for corrosion to intervene. 73, Pete N4ZR The World Contest Station Database, at www.conteststations.com The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at reversebeacon.blogspot.com, spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000 and arcluster.reversebeacon.net, port 7000 On 8/5/2012 6:38 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Then pressure has been enough to keep corrosion from between the clamped items...Thanks, Guy. On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote: So far I have not done so. Jim On 8/5/2012 11:21 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Do you treat the connections with anything for corrosion protection, e.g. silicone grease? 73, Guy On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 2:31 AM, Jim Brownj...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote: I use copper split bolt connectors, both forelectrical and mechanical connections. ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Small C-taps are available that can be used as splices. Even the small ones are usually for large(ish) (by antenna standards) wire, generally 8+ gauge. There may be smaller ones available. Common manufacturers are TB, Burndy, and Panduit. The smaller C-taps can be installed with a mechanical (non-hydraulic) crimp tool that is around $100. The tool I have appears to be the TB ERG2008 now (although mine is not that exact model). These tools are commonly used in the telcom industry to install compression lugs on 6-4 gauge DC power conductors, but they can handle the small-size C taps too. Burndy makes some taps that have the no-ox pre-applied, although I've only ever seen those for 4 gauge and larger conductors (they are used primarily for ground systems in places where cadweld can't be used). -Bill That said, split bolts are NOT in common use for load carrying connections and haven't been for some 40+ years. Most all connections, tension and non-tension, are done with compression splices where the conductor grooves/holes are prefilled with oxide inhibitor. Hand operated hydraulic or compressed air/gas driven compression tools, with the correct die for the type/size of connector, are utilized for making splices which will withstand mechanical and electrical loads at their rated values for the life of the conductor. The compression tools are quite expensive, but the connectors themselves are relatively inexpensive. Mis dos centavos. Milt, N5IA ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild
found that GE Silicone II Sealant, which is fine for outside, to work very well for covering solder joints. I've purchased it in many local hardware stores. It runs around $6 per tube. It cures in just a few hours, is rain resistant and does not affect the solder joint. There were reports years ago that the curing process would impact the solder but I have not found that to be true. Me, too. I know people say it causes problems, but I've yet to ever see any problem or sign of any problem. I've used it or similar for many years. :-) It can be peeled off and I've always found the solder joint just as clean as it was when it was first done even after several years. Same here. 73 Tom ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild
Hi Guy, The only thing to watch out for---and I don't know if Silicone II Sealant falls into this category, or not---are the corrosive fumes that might be emitted during the curing process... If the raw stuff smells a lot like vinegar, beware! I recall one time years ago we erected an after-the-fact, ad hoc gamma match for an on-site Field Day antenna we were using: we attached the variable capacitor to the inside of an impromptu weather-proof Tupperware container witch a couple of blobs of silicone sealant...and by morning the frame of the capacitor was COMPLETELY covered with what appeared to be rust / corrosion! The fumes from the sealant had nowhere else to go, I guess, attacked those parts of the capacitor that weren't made of aluminum... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ On 2012-08-05, at 10:35 AM, Tom W8JI wrote: found that GE Silicone II Sealant, which is fine for outside, to work very well for covering solder joints. I've purchased it in many local hardware stores. It runs around $6 per tube. It cures in just a few hours, is rain resistant and does not affect the solder joint. There were reports years ago that the curing process would impact the solder but I have not found that to be true. Me, too. I know people say it causes problems, but I've yet to ever see any problem or sign of any problem. I've used it or similar for many years. :-) It can be peeled off and I've always found the solder joint just as clean as it was when it was first done even after several years. Same here. 73 Tom ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild
Acetic acid is involved in the silicone curing process. I forget the exact mechanism but it should be easy enough to look up. Btw, someone mentioned eletrical tape becoming a sticky mess over time. I have found that the better grades of tape are much less prone to that. The cheap black electrical tape (the 50 cents per roll stuff) turns gooey in short order. I've found that the much better 3M tape (the kind that comes in a little plastic can for about $3/roll) is *far* better and doesn't become a gooey mess over time. The better tape is the 33 and 35 series and is also available in different colors that I use to color code cable runs. [Sent using Blackberry Messaging] - Original Message - From: topband-boun...@contesting.com topband-boun...@contesting.com To: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com Cc: topband topband@contesting.com Sent: Sun Aug 05 10:47:27 2012 Subject: Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild Hi Guy, The only thing to watch out for---and I don't know if Silicone II Sealant falls into this category, or not---are the corrosive fumes that might be emitted during the curing process... If the raw stuff smells a lot like vinegar, beware! I recall one time years ago we erected an after-the-fact, ad hoc gamma match for an on-site Field Day antenna we were using: we attached the variable capacitor to the inside of an impromptu weather-proof Tupperware container witch a couple of blobs of silicone sealant...and by morning the frame of the capacitor was COMPLETELY covered with what appeared to be rust / corrosion! The fumes from the sealant had nowhere else to go, I guess, attacked those parts of the capacitor that weren't made of aluminum... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ On 2012-08-05, at 10:35 AM, Tom W8JI wrote: found that GE Silicone II Sealant, which is fine for outside, to work very well for covering solder joints. I've purchased it in many local hardware stores. It runs around $6 per tube. It cures in just a few hours, is rain resistant and does not affect the solder joint. There were reports years ago that the curing process would impact the solder but I have not found that to be true. Me, too. I know people say it causes problems, but I've yet to ever see any problem or sign of any problem. I've used it or similar for many years. :-) It can be peeled off and I've always found the solder joint just as clean as it was when it was first done even after several years. Same here. 73 Tom ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild
Once I bought my little Mapp gas/oxygen torch, I stopped using a propane torch because I HATE the way the flame changes when you tilt it. For soft-soldering in a remote location, we can adjust it so that it has a tiny flame; and when hard (silver) soldering is more appropriate, we just open the valves a little more. The suggestions about the butane units is probably better advice that mine, but I used what I have available. If we must use an electric soldering gun/iron in the field, there's always small 12 volt gel-cells (like the batteries found in computer battery-backup UPS units) and a cheap power inverter. 73, Mike www.w0btu.com On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 9:18 AM, Jim Monahan k...@msn.com wrote: While I have used either a soldering gun with a long extension cord or a propane torch ... ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Then pressure has been enough to keep corrosion from between the clamped items...Thanks, Guy. On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 4:16 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote: So far I have not done so. Jim On 8/5/2012 11:21 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote: Do you treat the connections with anything for corrosion protection, e.g. silicone grease? 73, Guy On Sun, Aug 5, 2012 at 2:31 AM, Jim Brownj...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote: I use copper split bolt connectors, both forelectrical and mechanical connections. ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
On 8/4/2012 12:22 PM, Kenneth Grimm wrote: After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a wireless soldering device! I would be interested in what you use and if you are satisfied with the results. Thanks. 73, Hi Ken: I use a butane unit that I THINK I got at Radio Shack. It works well. You can get the butane at Wal Mart, or most Stop Rob corner places. 73, Mike, W5UC ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
On Sat, Aug 04, 2012 at 01:22:42PM -0400, Kenneth Grimm wrote: After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a wireless soldering device! I would be interested in what you use and if you are satisfied with the results. Thanks. I use something called Solder-It Butane Micro Torch, model MJ-300. I think it came from Lowes and cost around $20. Rob / KD8WK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Ken, what I use here to repair field connections is a small handheld butane torch with an adjustable flame. Mine came from eBay for under 10 bucks and uses Benzomatic fuel for refill and does an awesome job. Take along some fine grit sandparer, a wire brush, and some flux. I use flexible butyl after first a light wrap of Scotch 33 Plus tape. For WD-1A breaks, which a torch might eviscerate the finer wires, I use some crimp butt connectors through and through instead of the the torch. Herb, KV4FZ On 8/4/2012 1:22 PM, Kenneth Grimm wrote: After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a wireless soldering device! I would be interested in what you use and if you are satisfied with the results. Thanks. 73, ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Hi, The butane soldering tools have been mentioned and I have used them too. For heavier work I had to resort to a regular propane torch. That was for heavy dipole wire and the center conductor of RG-8 up a tower in a blizzard. There is always a way grin. 73, Bill KU8H ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Soldering in wild Alaska/KL7. Two hands and a mouth. Wire supported in one hand, butane/propane torch in other, solder roll in the mouth (don't tongue the contents) with a long lead of solder feeding the joint. Face downwind to avoid burns. After suffering numerous heating related failures at the soldered joints during subsequent wind events, I now use these heat shrink crimp connectors: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCRsx38WRw8 Leaves the hands free to swat mosquitoes, or mouth available to yell at approaching bears. 73, Gary NL7Y ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
I use a soldering iron tip with a regular propane torch. The tip attaches to just about any torch with a setscrew. Slip it over the end of the torch, tighten setscrew. I haven't looked for them recently. I bought this at a local hardware store 30 years ago for about $2 I think. It gets hot enough to solder #12 copperweld at 100 feet above ground with an air temperature of zero and moderate breeze. I could have been content never having acquired that particular bit of knowledge. ;-) 73, Paul N1BUG ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
I use a standard propane torch equipped with a large copper soldering tip. It's an attachment that fits on the end of the torch, and is secured with a small thumb screw. 73, Charlie, N0TT On Sat, 4 Aug 2012 13:22:42 -0400 Kenneth Grimm gr...@sbc.edu writes: After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a wireless soldering device! I would be interested in what you use and if you are satisfied with the results. Thanks. 73, -- Ken - K4XL BoatAnchor Manual Archive BAMA - http://bama.edebris.com ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Weller's butane soldering iron works really well. It's not a particularly cheap unit but it should last you a long time (the butane is refillable). For weatherproofing, I use butyl rubber splicing tape (it doesn't have adhesive). Stretch it about 30-50 percent while applying it as a spiral over the exposed solder area and it will stick to itself and make a good seal. You then need to cover it with a layer of electrical tape to keep it in place over time. Splices made this way can last a long time. I suspect you could use coax-seal in place of the butyl tape although it will be messier to work with. I got some of the new(ish) silicone splicing tape at dayton this year to try for outdoor splices. It seems somewhat similar to the butyl tape in terms of how it needs to be applied, but the manufacturer claims it is a one-step deal (no outer layer of electrical tape needed). I haven't tried it yet myself but it might be worth a look if you want to give it a shot. -Bill [Sent using Blackberry Messaging] - Original Message - From: topband-boun...@contesting.com topband-boun...@contesting.com To: topband topband@contesting.com Sent: Sat Aug 04 13:22:42 2012 Subject: Topband: Soldering in the wild! After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a wireless soldering device! I would be interested in what you use and if you are satisfied with the results. Thanks. 73, -- Ken - K4XL BoatAnchor Manual Archive BAMA - http://bama.edebris.com ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
By putting a small layer of tape on the connection first, then the Butyl, and the a more substantial layer of tape, it is much easier to inspect the connection should this be required later down the road. Butyl on coax or wire connections is a real bear to remove beause it sticks to everything and adheres to everything as it is supposed to. Herb, KV4FZ On 8/4/2012 7:11 PM, Bill Wichers wrote: Weller's butane soldering iron works really well. It's not a particularly cheap unit but it should last you a long time (the butane is refillable). For weatherproofing, I use butyl rubber splicing tape (it doesn't have adhesive). Stretch it about 30-50 percent while applying it as a spiral over the exposed solder area and it will stick to itself and make a good seal. You then need to cover it with a layer of electrical tape to keep it in place over time. Splices made this way can last a long time. I suspect you could use coax-seal in place of the butyl tape although it will be messier to work with. I got some of the new(ish) silicone splicing tape at dayton this year to try for outdoor splices. It seems somewhat similar to the butyl tape in terms of how it needs to be applied, but the manufacturer claims it is a one-step deal (no outer layer of electrical tape needed). I haven't tried it yet myself but it might be worth a look if you want to give it a shot. -Bill [Sent using Blackberry Messaging] - Original Message - From: topband-boun...@contesting.com topband-boun...@contesting.com To: topband topband@contesting.com Sent: Sat Aug 04 13:22:42 2012 Subject: Topband: Soldering in the wild! After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a wireless soldering device! I would be interested in what you use and if you are satisfied with the results. Thanks. 73, ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
Herb's suggestion is worthy, but needs a qualification as to the kind of tape to use. Over time the adhesive layer of just about all tape will separate from the tape itself. This will happen when installed in the field or even if left for a couple of years or more on an indoor shelf. The result is a gunky mess on the presumed object of preserved value. The only tape I use for a variety of antenna projects is 3-M (yes, brand specific) blue painters tape, widely available. The stick-em never leaves-em the tape-em! All outdoor soldering here is done with lead-free solder, and only 96 pct SN, 4 pct AG is used, but that's another story. Such soldered joints, and all mechanically contrived connectors, are first covered with the specified 3-M tape and then any kind of goop may be lathered over the junction. Any later surgical intervention is swiftly made with the point of a sharp knife blade. This 3-M tape has almost no tensile strength at all. But interestingly its outer surface has amazing longevity in an outdoor environment. I use a few tight turns around my various antenna rope halyards to mark the tie-off points on their ground level attachment points. Loosened in advance of a storm, it's a great help for me to know later where to put things back together. After a couple of years, the bright blue color of the tape will have faded but the tape still remains solidly in place, albeit a bit more brittle. Gud schtuff es vy recommended. 73, Charles, W2SH Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:21:15 -0400 From: he...@vitelcom.net To: topband@contesting.com Subject: Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild! By putting a small layer of tape on the connection first, then the Butyl, and the a more substantial layer of tape, it is much easier to inspect the connection should this be required later down the road. Butyl on coax or wire connections is a real bear to remove beause it sticks to everything and adheres to everything as it is supposed to. Herb, KV4FZ On 8/4/2012 7:11 PM, Bill Wichers wrote: Weller's butane soldering iron works really well. It's not a particularly cheap unit but it should last you a long time (the butane is refillable). For weatherproofing, I use butyl rubber splicing tape (it doesn't have adhesive). Stretch it about 30-50 percent while applying it as a spiral over the exposed solder area and it will stick to itself and make a good seal. You then need to cover it with a layer of electrical tape to keep it in place over time. Splices made this way can last a long time. I suspect you could use coax-seal in place of the butyl tape although it will be messier to work with. I got some of the new(ish) silicone splicing tape at dayton this year to try for outdoor splices. It seems somewhat similar to the butyl tape in terms of how it needs to be applied, but the manufacturer claims it is a one-step deal (no outer layer of electrical tape needed). I haven't tried it yet myself but it might be worth a look if you want to give it a shot. -Bill [Sent using Blackberry Messaging] - Original Message - From: topband-boun...@contesting.com topband-boun...@contesting.com To: topband topband@contesting.com Sent: Sat Aug 04 13:22:42 2012 Subject: Topband: Soldering in the wild! After suffering through our infamous derecho here in Virginia, I find that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages. Most of the breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require soldering. My non-AC electric soldering equipment seems to have been lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a wireless soldering device! I would be interested in what you use and if you are satisfied with the results. Thanks. 73, ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK ___ UR RST IS ... ... ..9 QSB QSB - hw? BK
