Thanks, Don - will have to try these ideas out tonight, when not working. Thanks again! -Pete
On Sun, Oct 15, 2017 at 12:44 PM, DonO <f...@tribcsp.com> wrote: > > > *From:* Pete Gramp <pete.gr...@gmail.com> > *Sent:* Sunday, October 15, 2017 6:22 AM > *To:* vfb-mail@googlegroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [VFB] Testing, testing... Rope-buggers Picture Palettes > > Hi, Don - > I have a question about hackle on your rope dubbed buggers. I've been > tieing in the hackle by the tip at the curve of the hook bend, roping the > dubbing but keeping the hackle out of the rope, rope-dubbing the dubbing, > tieing off the rope-dubbed dubbing, then hackling palmered hackle (not > roped) in the creases made by the rope-dubbed dubbing. But after reading > what you sent, it leads me to think that you actually rope the hackle > itself... can you speak to that? > > * Pete, first, there only are a few ‘rules’ that make the > ‘rope-dub’ what it is:* > *1. Anchor the dubbing front or back. (Front for roping backwards, at > the bend for roping forwards)* > *2. Stretch the thread out tight horizontally between the hook and > bobbin, which is held tightly in the left hand to create tension. (for > right-hand tiers) DO NOT hang the bobbin below the hook.* > *3. Spin the dubbing counterclockwise with fingertips of BOTH HANDS > alternately without allowing back-spin, until the desired tightness is > reached.* > > *4. After tight, don’t let go and wrap forward to create segments.* > * Everything after this is infinite ways to rope-dub IF you keep > these 4 points. The DVD has a short intro on the basic steps and movements, > but the rest of the DVD (45 min) is applications and variations. DVD #2 > could have easily been volumes 2 through 10. Hope to be able to get back > to DVD work in earnest after the house move soon. Posted a few Youtube > videos just to get set up, but have a long way to go.* > > First, whether you did rope the hackle, second whether it is roped with > the dubbing en masse, and third can you speak a little to how this method > actually is, well, how it works? I can't picture it happening - wouldn't > you get a great deal of the hackle fibers trapped under the rope and > sticking every which way, if you roped the hackle? > > * Everything you use as body-material and hackles is different, > therefore experiment with each one & combination to see what you can > achieve for looks, movement, color, feel, etc. That’s what this whole > exercise is about. If you do only what you are used to and comfortable > with, then it’s just a bugger-swap. Look at your entire inventory of > dubbings, chinelles, yarns, etc. and imagine combinations. Use the > palettes for new ideas. * > > or is that the point, to have them at variate lengths (due to being > trapped under the rope) and to have the hackle fibers sticking at odd > angles to the shank of the hook, all bushy-like? > > > > > > > > > > > > *Either way, my friend. The problem with normally palmered hackle is that > a tooth can easily cut the stem if it’s sitting on top of body material. > If you want to palmer the hackle (the palmered look), then don’t pack the > segments too tight as you wrap, and the hackle will slide down in between > the segments, getting protection from teeth. Don’t forget that you can use > more than one hackle in the palmer, or even rope the hackle(s) by itself > for density and durability. Roping two different hackles (color, length) > is another way to experiment with variations. One other point, when you > rope forward a hackled rope, wrap with the right hand and pinch-sweep the > hackles rearward with your left, once for each segment wrap. Time the wrap > so that it sets down before you let go of the hackles. This will avoid a > bunch of hackles getting wrapped down. This is especially important with > long hackles, like marabous and speys. But you can also rope the hackle > right in with the dubbing, creating a bushy appearance, like for a > wooly-worm or Griffith’s gnat. This is the most bullet-proof, and wrapping > both onto bit tippet material makes for great salt-water flies. Again, > pinch-sweep the hackles back as you wrap. With some dubbings (not > chenilles), rope the dubbing tight to gather it to the threads, then let > off and let the rope unwind. It will stay pretty tight to the thread now. > Then join the hackle and re-rope, WATCHING what happens as you spin (use > the material clip- much faster). Make your adjustments on the tight > thread, compressing the rope as needed to thicken the hackles. The > actual fly takes just moments to tie, but experimenting with the final > looks may take you all evening. But each time you master a fly, you have > seen many versions in getting there, and begin to build your application > experience. Once you master a body and hackle, modifications of that > approach are easy. Try ladder-lace cut down the middle. Make awesome > shiny hackles. I’ve been using the technique for over 30 years and > teaching it for 20 years, and am still constantly experimenting with new > dubbings and hackles. It’s a large part of my tying along with the > realistics and giant flies.* > > I suppose with flowing spey hackle, it isn't as noticeable as with, say, > dry fly hackle, but I'm intrigued with this possibility for both instances > (I realize we were speaking of wooly buggers, which aren't exactly in the > "dry fly" realm... by any stretch... but I am asking more as technique than > strictly for the buggers). > > * Try it both ways, not just by looks on the vise, but see what the > fish like.* *You can make buggers look like many swimming baits, from > squids to leeches to minnows to shrimp to something that looks like nothing > in the water, but the fish eat. But every time you rope and experiment, > remember every result -build your data-base of techniques.* > > * If you have a midge hackle, you can hackle a small dry-fly roped body > to help it stay afloat. Whether roped-in or palmered is up to you. Or you > can tie the roped natural fur body and brush it with a wire brush, then > trim, to create the same fuzzy halo, which holds floatant and makes the fly > float like a cork.* > > * Just 4 rules and the rest if up to experimentation.* *Hope this > helped. DonO* > > > Thanks, Don! > Keep on tyin' > -Pete > > On Sat, Oct 14, 2017 at 11:06 AM, DonO <f...@tribcsp.com> wrote: > >> Mike and others, >> >> If you find one you like and can’t figure out the materials from >> enlarging the photo, tell me which fly you are looking at and I will post >> the recipe. Then you can change colors to whatever you like. >> The important thing is to try to rope dub a new material, even if it is a >> cactus chenille or old chenille with new flash component. Or you can >> submit a design with sets of different colors. No rules, just fun and >> experimentation. >> >> I really like the looks of a spey feather (1 or more) roped in with >> dubbing or a chenille. Really adds life to the design. Black bugger- row >> 1 fly 1. That would be a great steel-head fly in bright colors. >> >> I might do a few versions of that one for my swap-fly. >> >> DonO >> >> *From:* Michael Bliss <flyfish...@gmail.com> >> *Sent:* Saturday, October 14, 2017 8:19 AM >> *To:* vfb-mail@googlegroups.com >> *Subject:* Re: [VFB] Testing, testing... Rope-buggers Picture Palettes >> >> I got it and waiting for some additional instructions. I found one I >> want to try. >> Mike >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Oct 14, 2017, at 6:46 AM, DonO <f...@tribcsp.com> wrote: >> >> Rope-buggers, >> >> Only got one reply on bugger palettes post. Did it get through to >> everyone? >> >> DonO >> >> *From:* DonO <f...@tribcsp.com> >> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 11, 2017 8:25 PM >> *To:* vfb-mail@googlegroups.com >> *Subject:* [VFB] Rope-buggers Picture Palettes >> >> Wooly-bugger swappers: >> >> As I promised, here’s some choices of rope-dubbed wooly-buggers. Sorry >> for the delay, home staging and visiting is a real routine-buster. >> >> These are samples showing how rope-dubbing can be used with different >> kinds of body materials, hackles, synthetics, furs, etc. to achieve >> different looks for different fishing. >> Pick one, zoom in, and see if you can re-create what I did as a rope-dub >> method. A lot of styles are represented, so you may want to try something >> new for your box. Ask for materials if you can’t identify them. >> >> <P1010004B[2].jpg> >> <P1010006B[2].jpg> >> >> Hang on to your flies for a while before you send, as we just got an >> offer on the house and should contract this week. Don’t know when we’ll >> actually move, so won’t know the address to send them to for a bit. Latest >> closing date will be Jan 8th. Will post my new address when we are ready. >> >> >> <-164674920514A3DCE2.png> >> <https://onedrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=84ad0e793695da9d&page=play&resid=84AD0E793695DA9D!549&parId=84AD0E793695DA9D!548&type=1&Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos&authkey=!AIcQzY-7N5tUIUk> >> Rope-dub bugger-swap samples >> <https://onedrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=84ad0e793695da9d&page=browse&resid=84AD0E793695DA9D!548&parId=84AD0E793695DA9D!105&type=5&authkey=!AIcQzY-7N5tUIUk&Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos> >> VIEW SLIDE SHOW >> <https://onedrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=84ad0e793695da9d&page=play&resid=84AD0E793695DA9D!548&parId=84AD0E793695DA9D!105&type=5&authkey=!AIcQzY-7N5tUIUk&Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos> >> DOWNLOAD >> ALL >> <https://onedrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=84ad0e793695da9d&page=downloadphotos&resid=84AD0E793695DA9D!548&parId=84AD0E793695DA9D!105&type=5&Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos&authkey=!AIcQzY-7N5tUIUk> >> This album has 2 photos and will be available on OneDrive until 1/12/2018. >> <9611746251BC3195A.png> >> <https://onedrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=84ad0e793695da9d&page=play&resid=84AD0E793695DA9D!550&parId=84AD0E793695DA9D!548&type=1&Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos&authkey=!AIcQzY-7N5tUIUk> >> >> >> DonO >> >> >> >> >> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> >> Virus-free. >> www.avg.com >> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> >> -- >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the "VFB Mail" >> group. >> >> To post to this group, send email to vfb-mail@googlegroups.com >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> vfb-mail-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com >> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group >> /vfb-mail?hl=en >> >> VFB Mail is sponsored by Line's End Inc at http://www.linesend.com >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to 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