----- Forwarded Message -----
>From: Evan B. Milburn <ebmilb...@yahoo.com>
>To: Apple-crop discussion list <apple-crop@virtualorchard.net>
>Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 5:58 AM
>Subject: Re: [apple-crop] M9-Nic29 winter hardiness
>
>
>
>My advice learned from very bad experience is never use B-9 on old
>nonfumigated. When B-9 was fairly new we planted a ten acre block of
>Brookfield Gala 5x14(back then was high density) 1st year great growth, 2nd
>year slower growth, all fruit removed. third year great fruit set and thinned
>hard, but very studded growth. Year 4, hardly any growth.,Year 5 some were
>dying. EVERY THING in the book was tried to keep them going to no avail.
>Nothing worked. Year 6 all were removed. Huge loose!!
> In this same block one half a row of M-9 337 of same variety was planted to
>finished out the last row and block. These grew and produced as I expected.
>Same thing has happen on smaller blocks of various other varieties.
> B-9 makes MARK look a hero! All 18,000 thousand we planted of them are now
>gone too! The old discontinued MAC 9 is up for another discussion sometime.
> Some times being on the cutting edge means your going to get your head cut
>off.
>For me no more B-9s! Our entire entire is planted on M-9337 ( yes I am in
>fire-blight country) and will be in the future till the Geneva series proves
>themselves.(by some one else)
> Remember, the early bird might get the worm, but the second mouse gets the
>cheese!
>
> Evan B. Milburn
>
>
>http://www.milburnorchards.com/
>
>
>
>
>From: Hugh Thomas <hughthoma...@gmail.com>
>>To: Apple-crop discussion list <apple-crop@virtualorchard.net>
>>Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 12:36 AM
>>Subject: Re: [apple-crop] M9-Nic29 winter hardiness
>>
>>
>>
>>The successful grower I met in Washington irrigates Bud 9 every 5 days. This
>>is under-tree sprinkler irrigation. I do the same and water 1 - 1.5" with
>>each irrigation every five days on average in the summer. If the weather is
>>really hot, say 95F everyday, then I might shorten that to every 4 days. My
>>soil is a silt/loam that has good drainage, high organic matter and holds
>>moisture well. In fact, I was amazed at how much water HC/B9 needs. I
>>believe if you are not irrigating Honeycrisp on Bud 9, you are in trouble.
>>Bud 9 seems to like "wet feet," but at the same time the soil needs air. My
>>philosophy is to water an inch plus, and then let that drain down and give
>>the trees a chance to have air for a couple of days, and then do it again. I
>>can see stunting if the trees get dry, as the roots will send a chemical
>>signal to the upper part of the tree and tell it to "stop growing." My sense
>>is that Bud 9 has a hair trigger on sending that
signal. I just assumed that all orchards back East have irrigation, if not,
then I would bet a cheeseburger that this is the problem with runted out Bud
9's.
>>
>>
>>If I had a stunted Bud 9 block, I would get a soil test and a tissue test and
>>POUR the nutrients on the block and NEVER let the trees dry out too far. I
>>would crank up the NPK and minors at the expense of fruit quality for a
>>season and then back off the N for fruiting if the trees recover. My two
>>cents...
>>
>>
>>
>>On Fri, Oct 25, 2013 at 4:04 PM, Steven Bibula <sbib...@maine.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>Especially for Jon Clements, but others as well:
>>>
>>>Are your initial Honeycrisp/Bud 9 Tall Spindle trials, where you cropped
>>>starting in 2nd leaf, agreeing with Mike’s experience? Looking at these
>>>trials subsequently, what happened to production? I have a 1,000 tree
>>>Honeycrisp/Bud 9 Tall Spindle planting planned for 2015 and this discussion
>>>has taken a very interesting turn.
>>>
>>>I noticed this year that with my 2nd leaf Snowsweet Tall Spindle on Bud 9,
>>>the trees that were fully cropped hardly grew (but produced huge fruit);
>>>however, the trees that had no fruit (spotty pollination in southern Maine
>>>with nearly continuous rain during bloom) also grew very little. Not one
>>>Snowsweet is even close to the top wire, located ~8.5’. We did have four
>>>periods of drought-induced stress this year, and the Bud 9 varieties were
>>>clearly the most checked. I will have Uniram drip with fertigation for all
>>>trees starting in 2014, and I anticipate that this will help ameliorate.
>>>
>>>Steven Bibula
>>>Plowshares Community Farm
>>>236 Sebago Lake Road
>>>Gorham ME 04038
>>>207.239.0442
>>>http://www.plowsharesmaine.com/
>>>
>>>From:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
>>>[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Mike Fargione
>>>Sent: Friday, October 25, 2013 9:42 AM
>>>To: jon.cleme...@umass.edu; Apple-crop discussion list
>>>
>>>Subject: Re: [apple-crop] M9-Nic29 winter hardiness
>>>
>>>Some growers in NY’s Hudson Valley prefer to plant Honeycrisp on B9 because
>>>they feel these trees are less prone to biennial bearing and can be cropped
>>>more heavily each year compared with Honeycrisp on M9. Our experience is
>>>that planting Honeycrisp/B9 at higher density and not cropping in years 1 &
>>>2 can produce a very productive orchard.
>>>Mike
>>>
>>>From:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
>>>[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Jon Clements
>>>Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 6:26 PM
>>>To: Apple-crop discussion list
>>>Subject: Re: [apple-crop] M9-Nic29 winter hardiness
>>>
>>>Simple solution -- pre-order and plant them 2 ft. X 10 ft. Will make you,
>>>and the nursery, happy...:-)
>>>
>>>Jon
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>apple-crop mailing list
>>>apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
>>>http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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