Two blades would sure help the balance problem. Mine has only one blade. I
have cut many holes with it, however using a hand drill. It's a bit
challenging, but can be done. A little scary when you're doing something like
cutting a hole in a door to install a lock set since you only have one
Hi,
That's the problem. There is a piece of siding that's not latched to the
piece below it for about half its length. If I move the offending piece up
enough to latch it to the piece below it, then the next piece up will no
longer latch to the one that was moved up. Given this situation,
Dale mentioned using landscaping blocks instead of cinder blocks to build
the walls around my basement door pit. OK, I like the idea, but I have a
question about that. How can I do inside corners with landscaping blocks?
Do they have special inside and outside corner blocks? Would I have to
Ed does every section of siding have a slump in it at that spot for the entire
30 feet high?
...bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Bob,
No. This seems to be the only piece. I unzipped 2 pieces below and about 5
pieces above the loose piece and they all look fine. If I can fix the
single loose piece, then the problem will be resolved. As I said, it's
become personal at this point.
Take care,
Ed
From:
Edward.
If you don't want to do the job right, than get some headless aluminum nails to
match the siding. Nail the offending piece every 4 feet . Or cut off the
nailing flang and drop itdown to hold the siding that u cut and lock the upper
piece.
RJ
- Original Message -
From:
Hi RJ,
My understanding, from people with whom I've discussed this problem, is that
siding needs to be loose so it can expand and contract with changes in
temperature. That's why the precut holes for nailing up the siding are
slotted and why you don't hammer nails completely down. Extending
I forgot to say that the single blade models are great for scoring.
I think the one I got was called a fly cutter.
On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote:
Two blades would sure help the balance problem. Mine has only one blade. I
have cut many holes with it, however using a hand drill.
I am not capable of keeping it straight enough, that the
chunk chunk chunk won't ruin the work or avoid hurting my wrist.
My only drill is a big Makita right now.
Rather non forgiving.
On Thu, 6 Aug 2009, Darrin Porter wrote:
Two blades would sure help the balance problem. Mine has only
O.K. I have to say it, fly cutters are intended for drill
presses. Every professional machinist I've asked about them say they
are the most dangerous tool they know of.
I can't imagine holding a hand drill stable enough to get a round hole with
one. A good hole saw is the tool for hand work.
is it too far out to suggest that you form a lip/lock shape extension the
size of the gap?
Maybe out of something like plumbers epoxy?
you can work with that stuff, it will be the intended locking shape, as
well as the shape of the gap. Once it hardens, you can paint it the right
color.
Before
it can be done, it can be done.
I've done it, and as I am no longer an adrenalin junkie I won't anymore.
One must go very very slowly and pay great attention to the *feel of the
cutter. Two cutters are so much easier, but still require patience.
I like to use it to make an inside and outside
I thought a fly cutter was used in a vertical mill. I used those in
machinist school.
earlier, Tom Fowle, wrote:
O.K. I have to say it, fly cutters are intended for drill
presses. Every professional machinist I've asked about them say they
are the most dangerous tool they know of.
I can't
Yes vertical mill or drill press.
Tom
Hi All
Well we replaced the last 88 feet of wooden 3 x2 fence rails yesterday with
top cap 50 galvanised steel channels.
These channels are like a pyramid shape with a one inch flat on the bottom
feet and a one inch flat at the top.
You screw the feet directly to the galvanised posts and the
Ray,
Wouldn't those old rails make good firewood? Or are they soaked with
creosote?
Tom
On Fri, Aug 07, 2009 at 06:30:08AM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote:
Hi All
Well we replaced the last 88 feet of wooden 3 x2 fence rails yesterday with
top cap 50 galvanised steel channels.
These channels are
I haven't been following the nylon glue issue so I don't understand what nylon
has to do with this, the siding will be vinyl or aluminum won't it?
Might one solution be a strip of something, maybe thin aluminum or shaped thin
hardwood sized and formed to fit under the catch and over the lip of
It depends on the style of blocks. Some are designed to but up against a corner
post of stacked squares, one type I am using do have half block outside
corners. They are textured so I think I will form my inside corners for the
steps I am building by a wad of adhesive on the flat edge and push
Hi Tom
yes they would make good fire wood, they are not treated with any toxic
stuff.
We do not have a wood fire anymore, I will call my work car driver he has a
wood fire and might like them a good thought.
Regards
Ray
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
I've always wanted a fire place, but know lots of people whove had them
and had them removed for the mess. Of course around here burning is pretty
much frowned upon lots of the time.
Tom
Hi Dan
Have you thought of using Hebel Blocks, which are light weight and you can
cut them to any shape using a Hebel Saw.
Light Weight is the key carrying them up those steps would be easy and you
just glue them together .
Just a thought.
Ray
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
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