Re: Non-binding-breaking Book scanners (Was: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread Lyndon Nerenberg

> On Feb 19, 2016, at 5:04 PM, Fred Cisin  wrote:
> 
> It wouldn't matter for most of my books, but I have just a few where if you 
> break the spine, then I will break your spine.

If anyone is still maintaining a "fortunes" file, please add the above.

--lyndon



Re: VAX 11/730 quickie

2016-02-19 Thread Mike Ross
On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 12:22 PM, Mike Ross  wrote:
> Just started working on mine - been a back-burnered project for a long
> time. Unfortunately all the cables were cut when it was dismantled; I
> was lucky to grab just the CPU.
>
> Got it powered up ok - no drama there. I faked cables to the port on
> the WCS which drives the console and hooked up my trust VT220 at 2400
> baud. Nada. No self-test prompt; no ROM> prompt.
>
> Maybe I've messed up the faked console cable; I'll check - already
> tried obvious things like making sure Rx & Tx were crossed (it's a
> three wire cable according to the schematics - Rx Tx Gnd; no flow
> control). But I'd like to know more about the assorted LEDs on the CPU
> boards; maybe there's a clue there if it's not getting far enough into
> the self-test to display console output. There's a fair few LEDs on
> the M8391. But the doc I've looked through on Bitsavers doesn't seem
> to document their meanings and interpretations. Can anyone help on
> that point?
>
> Hopefully this link works:
> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208521465663997=867897c786

OK apparently link didn't work... here's the pic:

http://www.corestore.org/730boardsLEDs.jpg

See row of red LEDs on M8391? On power-up the leftmost LED lights and
goes out. Then the rightmost two LEDs light and stay on...

Mike

http://www.corestore.org
'No greater love hath a man than he lay down his life for his brother.
Not for millions, not for glory, not for fame.
For one person, in the dark, where no one will ever know or see.'


got it. RE: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread Jay West
Richard wrote...
--
All -- I've been searching for an online version of the LSI-11 Processor
Handbook from 1975 (which I think covers the 11/03) but I can't seem to
locate it anywhere. 

Does anyone have a link to it or, alternatively,  a real copy that maybe I
can scan?
---

I probably have several hundred of those dec handbooks, organized by year. I
just pulled the one you want...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/131070638@N02/25043539971/in/dateposted/

Richard - it's yours for "the cost of a beer if we ever meet". All I ask is
that if one isn't online anywhere, you make reasonable efforts at some point
to get it scanned and available to the public.

Email me your shipping address off-list.

J




Re: Non-binding-breaking Book scanners (Was: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread COURYHOUSE

well...  the  trick is to have book partially open not   cracked
 
and to have 2  cameras  for fast production copy and uniform  size on the   
size as  cameras  are  fixed
 
clear material flattens  pages
 
sure if  just a  page or  so   a   camera  even hand  held  works...
but if  you are humping pages all day long.  you  need   this  thing!
 
Ed Sharpe archivist  for smecc  _www.smecc.org_ (http://www.smecc.org)  
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 2/19/2016 4:37:12 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
tdk.kni...@gmail.com writes:

Why does  someone just take a photo with their camera
On Feb 19, 2016 5:09 PM, "Fred  Cisin"  wrote:

> On Fri, 19 Feb 2016,  geneb wrote:
>
>> *sighs theatrically and shuffles off Fred's  lawn*
>>
>
> well, if you had brought beer, . .  .
>
>
>
>



Re: Non-binding-breaking Book scanners (Was: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread geneb

On Fri, 19 Feb 2016, Fred Cisin wrote:


http://www.diybookscanner.org/ :)

Ooh, that's pretty cool.

Yes, but, . . .
I've participated in building a few similar devices.

So download the CAD files and get cracking.


If that's the way that you WANT to do it.
It's mostly plywood, framing, and some pipe work.
We did one with slotted angle iron, one with unistrut, and a few with scrap 
2x4s.



*sighs theatrically and shuffles off Fred's lawn*

:)

g.

--
Proud owner of F-15C 80-0007
http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.
http://www.diy-cockpits.org/coll - Go Collimated or Go Home.
Some people collect things for a hobby.  Geeks collect hobbies.

ScarletDME - The red hot Data Management Environment
A Multi-Value database for the masses, not the classes.
http://scarlet.deltasoft.com - Get it _today_!


Re: Non-binding-breaking Book scanners (Was: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread Fred Cisin

http://www.diybookscanner.org/ :)

Ooh, that's pretty cool.

Yes, but, . . .
I've participated in building a few similar devices.

So download the CAD files and get cracking.


If that's the way that you WANT to do it.
It's mostly plywood, framing, and some pipe work.
We did one with slotted angle iron, one with unistrut, and a few with 
scrap 2x4s.


You can take a shortcut and use some old enlargers or photographic copy 
stands for the camera brackets, and posts for them to slide on.
For one quick and dirty one, we used plumbing pipe and a pair of 
clamp-pods.   (common photographic clamps with 1/4"x20tpi mounting thread)
A "slide-rail" positioner is helpful to be able to make minor front-back 
adjustments of camera position, particularly since a relatively long focal 
length lens is going to require increasing the camera to work distance.
For this use, you'll want them coming down from a 
superstructure ABOVE, rather than rising from the base.


The big part is a trough made of two pieces of plywood resting on a V 
shaped frame.  (You'll remember that I recommended NOT having them meet at 
the bottom.)  Draw some lines on it at the midpoint, and at "calibrated" 
distances out from the midpoint, plus some holes at most common positions 
for bench-dogs or fence attachment.


There will still be occasional times when you will want to press glass on 
the work to flatten it.


Most people consider most "modern" lenses to produce reults that they can 
tolerate.  You may need to use a shorter focal length than you might be 
comfortable with.



With a "standard" camera mount, it is easy to switch cameras around until 
you find what you like.



Throw together a quick and dirty one, and decide for yourself what changes 
you need.





Re: Non-binding-breaking Book scanners (Was: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread geneb

On Fri, 19 Feb 2016, Fred Cisin wrote:


http://www.diybookscanner.org/ :)

Ooh, that's pretty cool.


Yes, but, . . .
I've participated in building a few similar devices.


So download the CAD files and get cracking.

g.

--
Proud owner of F-15C 80-0007
http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.
http://www.diy-cockpits.org/coll - Go Collimated or Go Home.
Some people collect things for a hobby.  Geeks collect hobbies.

ScarletDME - The red hot Data Management Environment
A Multi-Value database for the masses, not the classes.
http://scarlet.deltasoft.com - Get it _today_!


Re: Non-binding-breaking Book scanners (Was: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread COURYHOUSE
...And  when you look at the site you will see guy in  dust mask. 
when scanning   fungus ridden or moldy material a must although I  prefer a 
class A  respirator.
 
We have an offsite  storage we call the  tombs  and   it  smells like 
one... but it is  for martial that is  biohazzard  challenged that we want to 
scan someday.   too awesome to   toss  but  too ucccky to have in the archive, 
museum area or   library. If  another  copy shows up and/or someone scans a 
copy  then  the ucccky held  copy is  discarded. If   not   at least a copy 
is  saved here  and sometimes   we  suit up and scan  some of it.
 
Ed Sharpe archivist  for SMECC 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 2/19/2016 12:21:24 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
ci...@xenosoft.com writes:

>>  http://www.diybookscanner.org/ :)
> Ooh, that's pretty cool.

Yes,  but, . . .
I've participated in building a few similar devices.
Instead  of the two sides MEETING in a V, there should be an open area 
right at the  spine to accomodate the greater thickness of the spine 
itself.   Having the two side panels able to slide up and down, with pegs, 
a few  inches would accomodate that and permit a varying amount of spine  
clearance.

Lighting.  Ideally, lighting for copy work should  be at a 45 degree 
(1/4PI) angle.  That way specular reflection  (glare) from glass cover 
(still needed occasionally!) or even just glossy  paper, is not going 
towards the camera.  If the trough faces  north/south, then that can be 
done with light(s) north and south of the  unit.  Using two lights makes it 
much easier to get acceptably even  illumination. Some people prefer 
various forms of diffuse light, or  coaxial lighting ("ring" light).

Having the camera at a fixed position  relative to the work holder is great 
IFF you are doing consistent  size.  Different sizes could be dealt with 
through variable focal  length ("zoom") lenses, but that is not always the 
ideal solution.  I  like to use FLAT-FIELD lenses, which are generally 
fixed focal length  (sometimes called "primary lenses").  Enlarger lenses 
are an  extremely cheap source for those.  Being able to move the 
camera/work  distance closer/farther requires a movable mount to change 
distance, but  keep the camera centered relative to the work.  North/south 
motion  can be easily handled by moving the book along the trough, 
preferably with  a fence, or simple bench-dog stops.  The other motion 
generally  requires the camera mount to be a pole at a 45 degree (1/4PI 
radians)  angle relative to the work.  Since the work is at a 45 degree 
angle  from vertical, that means that the pole can be VERTICAL, with the 
camera  mount aimed at a 45 degree angle. The post should be offset 
slightly from  the north/south center, with the movable camera mounts 
holding the cameras  at 45 degree angle (preferably with the focal node 
close to that central  plane).

Positioning of the book would require placing it so that it is  centered 
north/south (calibration marks, as well as fence or bench-dogs,  are very 
helpful!) and moving the camera up and down and focussing for  distance.


NOTE: use of other than 90 degree (1/2 PI radians) for  the book holder 
would require further changes!


--
Grumpy Ol'  Fred  ci...@xenosoft.com




Non-binding-breaking Book scanners (Was: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread Fred Cisin

http://www.diybookscanner.org/ :)

Ooh, that's pretty cool.


Yes, but, . . .
I've participated in building a few similar devices.
Instead of the two sides MEETING in a V, there should be an open area 
right at the spine to accomodate the greater thickness of the spine 
itself.  Having the two side panels able to slide up and down, with pegs, 
a few inches would accomodate that and permit a varying amount of spine 
clearance.


Lighting.  Ideally, lighting for copy work should be at a 45 degree 
(1/4PI) angle.  That way specular reflection (glare) from glass cover 
(still needed occasionally!) or even just glossy paper, is not going 
towards the camera.  If the trough faces north/south, then that can be 
done with light(s) north and south of the unit.  Using two lights makes it 
much easier to get acceptably even illumination. Some people prefer 
various forms of diffuse light, or coaxial lighting ("ring" light).


Having the camera at a fixed position relative to the work holder is great 
IFF you are doing consistent size.  Different sizes could be dealt with 
through variable focal length ("zoom") lenses, but that is not always the 
ideal solution.  I like to use FLAT-FIELD lenses, which are generally 
fixed focal length (sometimes called "primary lenses").  Enlarger lenses 
are an extremely cheap source for those.  Being able to move the 
camera/work distance closer/farther requires a movable mount to change 
distance, but keep the camera centered relative to the work.  North/south 
motion can be easily handled by moving the book along the trough, 
preferably with a fence, or simple bench-dog stops.  The other motion 
generally requires the camera mount to be a pole at a 45 degree (1/4PI 
radians) angle relative to the work.  Since the work is at a 45 degree 
angle from vertical, that means that the pole can be VERTICAL, with the 
camera mount aimed at a 45 degree angle. The post should be offset 
slightly from the north/south center, with the movable camera mounts 
holding the cameras at 45 degree angle (preferably with the focal node 
close to that central plane).


Positioning of the book would require placing it so that it is centered 
north/south (calibration marks, as well as fence or bench-dogs, are very 
helpful!) and moving the camera up and down and focussing for distance.



NOTE: use of other than 90 degree (1/2 PI radians) for the book holder 
would require further changes!



--
Grumpy Ol' Fred ci...@xenosoft.com



Re: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread Dale H. Cook
At 11:37 AM 2/19/2016, Richard Cini wrote:

>... LSI-11 Processor Handbook from 1975 (which I think covers the 11/03) ...

It should - according to a chart in the 1979 pdp11 processor handbook the 
LSI-11 was used in the 11/03 and the 11/03L.

Dale H. Cook, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA
Osborne 1 / Kaypro 4-84 / Kaypro 1 / Amstrad PPC-640
http://plymouthcolony.net/starcity/radios/index.html 



Re: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread Richard Cini
Ooh, that's pretty cool. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 19, 2016, at 12:51 PM, geneb  wrote:
> 
>> On Fri, 19 Feb 2016, Richard Cini wrote:
>> 
>> It depends on the quality of the binding and its age, and how much pressure 
>> you put on the spine. I've done it with the cover up with a white paper 
>> "mask" on the glass to minimize haze at the edges, and then hold the book by 
>> hand. There will be some text warping in the scan as a result of the gutter 
>> of the binding not being flat to the glass.
>> 
>> Of course, if anyone has a copy whose binding is already compromised that 
>> would be good. I have not found a scan of this anywhere so certainly it 
>> would be good to scan.
> 
> 
> This is an excellent reason to build one of these:
> 
> http://www.diybookscanner.org/ :)
> 
> g.
> 
> -- 
> Proud owner of F-15C 80-0007
> http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.
> http://www.diy-cockpits.org/coll - Go Collimated or Go Home.
> Some people collect things for a hobby.  Geeks collect hobbies.
> 
> ScarletDME - The red hot Data Management Environment
> A Multi-Value database for the masses, not the classes.
> http://scarlet.deltasoft.com - Get it _today_!


Re: Looking for PDP handbook

2016-02-19 Thread geneb

On Fri, 19 Feb 2016, Richard Cini wrote:

It depends on the quality of the binding and its age, and how much 
pressure you put on the spine. I've done it with the cover up with a 
white paper "mask" on the glass to minimize haze at the edges, and then 
hold the book by hand. There will be some text warping in the scan as a 
result of the gutter of the binding not being flat to the glass.


Of course, if anyone has a copy whose binding is already compromised 
that would be good. I have not found a scan of this anywhere so 
certainly it would be good to scan.



This is an excellent reason to build one of these:

http://www.diybookscanner.org/ :)

g.

--
Proud owner of F-15C 80-0007
http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.
http://www.diy-cockpits.org/coll - Go Collimated or Go Home.
Some people collect things for a hobby.  Geeks collect hobbies.

ScarletDME - The red hot Data Management Environment
A Multi-Value database for the masses, not the classes.
http://scarlet.deltasoft.com - Get it _today_!