I think a lot of owners have that so called disease
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: February 8, 2013 11:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List reflaking
Here in our neck of the woods (Ohio River) the racers have gravitated to S2's;
there's a fleet of about 9-10 and growing... also a bunch of aging Pearson
26's...
Richard
1987 33-II
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
235 South Fifth Street, Fourth Floor
Louisville, Kentucky 40202
502-584-7255
Were they the shallow draft models? Our PHRF has the SD models at 87.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Edd Schillay
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2013 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Handicap review
The brain trust at the YRALIS PHRF Board had them at
With two folks working on it, we do both at roughly the same time. I don't
think there is a 'correct' way. If one tightens up the leech line first, then
the main sheet has to be slacked to get the halyard tight. As our races are
short ones around here, we generally only set a reef at the dock
My glass shop didn't want to mess with the spline and gasket, so he glued the
plexi in with the same polyurethane that they use on car windshields. Looks
pretty good, very similar to the original grey and he only charged me $20 per
window, plexi included. I'm going to do the forward two window
We fixed that problem when I raced Lightning by installing velcro on the inside
of the cockpit and on our beer huggers. Greatly reduced the amount of beer we
had to carry out to the race course.
James
Delaney
CC 38 MK II
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From: kirk sneddon
To:
I suppose you could take some 80 grit sandpaper to the aluminum frame and
the Plexiglas and get Sikaflex to stick, but I'm not sure that would be a
great idea.
For starters, Sikaflex is expensive. The Sikaflex tube of Sikaflex and
bottle of primer I bought to reseal my foredeck hatch cost
You have it right in both cases. 30-1 and light air area. Number one to 20
apparent. And, if I reefed more often, I would lead all lines back and not have
the person at the mast hooking up the luff ring and then standing on the cabin
top to use the boom winch to haul in the leech reef.
Gary
Gary,
Nope. Outrageous, huh?
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37/40+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
On Feb 9, 2013, at 11:13 AM, Gary Nylander
The car shops use pretty much the same stuff, make sure you get the
polyurethane that can stand UV.unless the name has changed in Sikaflex
products it was 295uv
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
It still depends a bit on where you are sailing. My 30-1 gets three(!) seconds
a mile from a J-24 and in medium to light air and the flat water we sail in,
they clobber me (to the point that we have moved them into the A fleet, the
rest of which are under PHRF 150 boats). Get out in the Bay and
Opening ports are on the wish list for my 38, but I plan to replace the two
forward portlights. I've not found any that are 27 x 7 to fit the openings.
What are you using, and how much will the ports cost?
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
I usually have only the first of 2 reefing lines rigged on my 35 MKII. In
my case the tack adjustment line is fixed to an eye strap on the forward
port side of the mast about 4 inches below the boom and lead from there up
through the reefing cringle in the sail port side and then down the mast on
Rick,
The cutouts in my cabin house are currently 24x6. I'm planning to use the
Lewmar standard portlight size 4. It requires a cutout of 24 11/16 x 6 3/4 so
I'll have to do a little trimming on the cabin house to fit them. The corner
radius is looks to be very similar, so I don't anticipate
Hi James,
How will the Lewmar porthole handle the curve on the cabinside?
My neighbour is doing something similar on his Newport 41 and there
looks to be a 1/4 gap fore aft with the middle in contact with the
cabinside.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 09:24 AM 09/02/2013,
Thanks for the kind mention Gary. Right now the 35 is doing major damage to my
checking account as I do winter upgrades and maintenance.
Currently debating the spin/non-spin options for sailing this year. Currently
looking for a new bow-person, as my wife isn’t too fond of doing spin work
Some women are just high maintenance!!! You're doing the smart thing,
looking to trade her in
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake
Brodersen
Sent: February 9, 2013 2:13 PM
To:
I wonder if CC owners represent a higher percentage of sailors with ARSS than
the wider boat ownership population?
Martin
Calypso
1970 CC 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Chuck S
[cscheaf...@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday,
Ouch!
Good thing you guys are separated by a large gulf and hundreds of miles.
:)
At 10:39 AM 09/02/2013, you wrote:
Some women are just high maintenance!!! You're doing the smart
thing, looking to trade her in
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
Chuck,
I'm sitting here reading your post hysterically laughing. I could have written
your post word for work. I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with the
disease.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
Well we have prettier boats than most of the population so the same gene that
demands a pretty boat probably also demands a tidy one.
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI
USA 02840
+401 965 5260
On Feb 9, 2013, at 13:51, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote:
I
Thanks to all for your excellent suggestions. As was mentioned, the 29-2 can
get a bit squirrelly when things build to 15 or above and, as a primarily genny
driven boat, is a blast and a real lady if one prudently and timely reefs the
main. I have had her out in 40+ with good crew and had her
RIck:
I replaced the side cabin windows a few years ago.I used Sikaflex
295UV and the primer. My windows have no frames, no screws,
fastenersthey are flush with the side of the cabin. The Sika is not
expensive, it's the primer that is expensive but I wouldn't use it
without the
My topping lift broke the other day - at the top, of course. I'm pretty
sure I contributed to its demise as I recall hoisting the main once or
twice with the halyard somehow on top of the topping lift.
Does anyone know how the topping lift is attached to the top of the mast?
I'm trying to save an
Dwight,
I'm not looking to trade her in. She is, after all, the owner. She makes
the boat payments and I love her. I am in the market for a new bow person.
Preferably I can find a nice 20-something that weighs about 100#, can bench
press 220, and knows the difference between the foreguy and
Russ,
They are not designed to handle much curve, but I am not anticipating any
problem there. I'll bed them with butyl and that will give a little room for
error. I heading down to the boat tomorrow and verify with a straight edge.
James
Delaney
CC38 MKii
Oriental, NC
- Original Message
Bob,
CC used a variety of mastheads. Yours could well be a one off.
Having said that, mine is a swage eye attached with a pin and split ring.
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 9, 2013, at 7:51 PM, Bob Moriarty bobmo...@gmail.com wrote:
My topping lift
Its probably a swaged eye and a ¼ clevis pin (thats what my 25 had), but
it could also be a fork and a clevis pin.
Take my advice. Call Guido at Garhauer and get an RV18-1 rigid vang made for
your boat ($435 in the 2012 catalog), and throw away your topping lift.
You wont need to go
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