Lorne,
Our evaporator is vertical against the sink, but also forward on the inside
of the box and the long dimension runs port-stbd. It's the way to go.
Compressor is just under the settee forward of the stbd sink. You will have
to cut a hole in the vertical fiberglass glass below the settee for th
in heavy wind conditions I need extra two wraps of the furling line around the
drum to furl the sail completely.
Marek
C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON
From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll
Hi Pete,
If the batteries are shot, don't they get warm
with hard charging? Danny's original message says the batteries are not warm.
Maybe he is deep cycling the battery bank.
Cheers, Russ
At 09:27 PM 21/06/2016, you wrote:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="-
Dan -
This may be an indication that your batteries are shot. The charger is
working to give them a juice and they're just not having it. Take a look
at them before you change your charger.But also look for loose
connections.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.co
Hi Danny,
I like how you find it goes grey, most of your fellows call it gray. :)
Anyhow, the meter pegs over 30 amps, let's say 35 for this
discussion... and at 15 volts we're looking at something near 500
watts to the batteries. If it's a 90 percent efficient battery
charger then it has to
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/icebox/build_icebox.htm this one?
On Jun 21, 2016 8:02 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Read about my refrigeration install. There is a link on the cncphotoalbum
> home page. There was about 1 1/8 inch open cell sheet foam around the box.
> There ar
Read about my refrigeration install. There is a link on the cncphotoalbum
home page. There was about 1 1/8 inch open cell sheet foam around the box.
There are pics in the project document.
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1
On Jun 21, 2016 6:17 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I'm converting to a fri
Sweet, thanks. I have an isotherm sitting in a box to install.
Where did you put the compressor and where did you put the evaporator? I
plan to put the evaporator vertical against the side closest to the sink.
Any tip on install?
On Jun 21, 2016 5:56 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@
Hi guys, When I turn the battery charger on it greys very warm. The Guage
pins all the way past 30 amps.
It is not too hot to touch but too hour to hold your hands on for very long.
The batteries are not warm and seem to have taken some charge over a couple
hours.
It's this normal? I don'
NYC/NJ area?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our
The 30-2's have are reasonably well insulated and do have an insulated lid
like the other Rob Ball boats. I personally wouldn't go tearing into the
cabinetry until after you install the refrigeration unit and see how it
does, especially since you'll be on shore power.
Our Isotherm does quite fine.
Thanks, I've read a lot about it, but didn't know how good the box is to
start with.
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 5:26 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Our old boats were not designed for refrigeration. You will definitely
> need more insulation from what was originally
+1 for the dogbones. I have them on each reef tack. They work great.
Marek
Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.
Original message
From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List
Date: 2016/06/21 10:31 (GMT-07:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: mcrom...@bell.b
Our old boats were not designed for refrigeration. You will definitely need
more insulation from what was originally supplied with the boat. In fact, if
you look at the interior ceiling of your icebox, there is no insulation at all
there unless a previous owner added some. There are a lot of
I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard. I'm wondering if I need
to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
How thick or good is the factory insulation?
Thanks
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our mem
Removing the core on the begiining of the wrap on the drum allows the line to
lay more evening and reduces the line build up. You can maintain the core in
the portion of the line that is handled. I've been dong this for many years.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #23
>From what I've heard you should never use a winch to furl the jib. Generally,
>furlers don't respond well to that.
Marek
Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.
Original message
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
Date: 2016/06/21 12:19 (GMT-07:00)
Three, maybe four if it's heavy air. One on helm, one on mainsheet/traveler,
one/two on Genoa. I too have adjustable cars and if we're overpowered, we'll
pull them back and spill off the top of the luff, tension the backstay (mine's
now hydraulic). Rarely touch Genoa luff tension.
Allen
Fr
I am with Steve on that. You can over think it, if you want to. But if you buy
about 2x the boat length you should be fine. At the price you pay for a line of
this diameter you can add extra 10 ft. for good measure.
Of course involving calculus is so much more fun.
Marek
Sent from my Bell Sams
Not stupid when you size the line accordingly. What is stupid is getting a
line wrap when trying to furl/unfurl because the line will not lay right on the
spool with all that bulk .
10,000+ ocean miles has proven its efficacy.
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Tue, 21 Jun
I'm really low tech - hoist the sail at the dock, connect the furling line
.. roll the sail up by hand (by manually rotating the drum) .. go a few
extra turns - to someone else's point, undoing jib sheets later is easy if
need be.
You guys are overthinking it :)
(probably I'm underthinking it)
I
I had not heard of it either, but the furling line for my boat had the core
removed for the part of the line which was wrapped around the drum...which is
most of the line...it took a bit getting used to the feel of it, but it works,
(which is the most important part)!
Richard
1985 C&C 27
I am still using a Hood model 810 "Line Drive" continuous loop furler on my
27 and I find that it works well on that size of boat.
The only tricky thing is that you have to be careful to maintain tension on
both lines when reefing in order to prevent the line from slipping in the
sheave.
By the
Allen how did you determine that 18 degrees is the optimal heel angle for your
30-2?
Thanks,
Randy
- Original Message -
From: "allen via CnC-List"
To: "cnc-list"
Cc: "allen"
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 6:49:03 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
Lorne,
It
I've got a 30-1 not a 30-2 but I'll chime in anyway.
Main: halyard, cunningham, outhaul, adjustable backstay, boom-end sheeting,
traveler at aft end of cockpit, after-market Garhauer rigid vang (just
installed), two reef points with single-line slab reefing for both.
Headsail: halyard, adjust
Ryan,
Where is the boat being kept? If you’re sailing in Barnegat Bay, Toms River
Yacht Club may have the largest number of PHRF handicap races but I’m not sure
if you need to be a member to compete. Bay Head YC seems to be more focused on
one design racing such as Catboats and Scows.
Fur
I have a Selden GX 7.5 on a 29-2 that I use for my assym.
Pros relative to sock/snuffer are:
1. can rig at dock
2. No need to go to foredeck to release or retrieve
3. Can gybe by furling and the gybing and unfurling, if you want to
4. Can get sail in quickly if wind picks up
5. Get more use of ass
Never heard of removing the core. Sounds stupid! I could see stripping
cover. If the line is as long as the boat, you are probably OK.
Joel
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:18 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Joel,
>
> You could use the mid point as an average, but I
Allen to your question:
Main
- outhaul
- cunningham
- backstay tensioner (mech)
- fixed baby stay (which I am going to remove to the mast)
- cabin top traveler
- boom vang
- Fisherman's reef
- 1st, 2nd, 3rd reefs
- halyard tenshion
Head
- backstay tensioner
- ad
Check out the yacht clubs in your area. Possibly one or two in your
marina. Not all clubs are the large, rich snooty kinds. You'll get to meet
racers who can give you advice. Also, lots of social activities.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland. OR
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:21
Standard Deck from manual
Starboard out to inboard: Main Halyard, Boom Vang, Starboard Wing halyard,
2nd reef, main sheet
Port :Port Wing halyard, Cunningham, 1st reef, outhaul
My main sheet comes off the bridge deck. Backstay adjuster starboard aft.
Allen Miles
From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-Lis
Ryan,
Suggest you look into the racing out of Atlantic Highlands in Sandy Hook Bay —
not too far from Brooklyn. I think Atlantic Highlands YC is the host club,
My father races his C&C 27 Mk V out of there.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
C
Hey listers,
After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn. This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Bar
Joel,
You could use the mid point as an average, but I also leave 3 or 4 wraps of
rope around the drum when the jib is fully furled just to have a margin of
error when the jib is furled too tight or too loose…
And like Fred said, you could also use a calculus to determine the exact length
you
Is anyone using continuous line furlers for jib or asymmetrical spin? Thoughts
pro or con?
thanks
bill
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contr
For Fred's sake you should have used the calculus!Nice calc using
averages.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
Measure the diamet
Chuck,
Why not measure from the mid-point of the drum's circumference?
Be sure you have enough line to wrap it around a winch and tail it.
Joel
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the
Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the way.
Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the "circumference"
or length of rope for one wrap around the drum. Yes it will change as the rope
unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument, let's u
Port ring comes down and hooks on the stbd horn and vice versa. Don't try
to imagine the dogbone as coming down and hooking on both horns. You can
make your own dogbone easy with a piece of amsteel and 2 rings.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 21, 2016 1:54 PM, "Lorne S
Ah ha, thanks for the link and picture in it. Dogbone .
On Jun 21, 2016 11:49 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"
wrote:
> https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC
> On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Humm, what's a dog bone? I'll be sailing 90% singl
https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC
On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Humm, what's a dog bone? I'll be sailing 90% single.
> On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots. I l
Sounds like calculus to me… yuck… :^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> On Jun 21, 2016, at 12:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
Since my boat is along way away... My pictures I took show:
Port side: jib halyard, outhaul, reef 1, and one line in the clutch that
isn't labeled.
Starboard
Two 3 pack clutches :Boom Vang, Cunningham, and the rest I can't read of
which one is empty.
On Jun 21, 2016 11:24 AM, "allen via CnC-Lis
Wind conditions while rolling up seems to have an effect on how tightly
the sail wraps, and how much cord gets used.
Bill Bina
On 6/21/2016 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL
--
Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
From: Indigo via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct
Hey, all you 30-2 owners.
I've got to ask what sail controls for head and main do you have?
Allen Miles
From: kelly petew via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:12 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: kelly petew
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30-2 -when to reef??
I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 1
I sewed dogbones for my first and second reefs a few weeks ago...i LOVE them!
My tack would inevitably come off the reef hook when I was hooking directly
onto the sail grommet.
Mike
Atacama 33ii.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mo
Humm, what's a dog bone? I'll be sailing 90% single.
On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List"
wrote:
> I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots. I like to keep the
> boat on its "feet". So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
> Nervous or not, you'll start to feel wea
I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots. I like to keep the boat
on its "feet". So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and you'll
want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on the
r
Alan,
I have Blue Sea panel, instead of a 1-both-2 Perko switch, so
disconnecting the house batteries is not an option.
Gary
S/V Kaykarah
~~~_/)~~
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:21 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> If you switch between starting battery an
If you switch between starting battery and house batteries, and your master
switch isn't a make before break, you can have the issue you're referring
to. In other words, when moving to a different switch position, the switch
should momentarily go from starting to both to house.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk
The consensus seems to be that turning off the key did not kill my
alternator and it was just a coincidence that the problem showed up shortly
after turning off the switch. I have no way of disconnecting my batteries
from the alternator. I guess it just "died". Thanks for all your
collective wis
I shut off the ignition all the time, have done for years...makes less
beeper noise when I actually turn off the motor, but it is always at idle
and never with a big load on the alt. I did install a Perko battery switch
that has an alternator field disconnect in it so that if the battery switch
get
I don’t know how ignition switch would disconnect alternator output form a
battery? You need to check that. Perhaps ignition switch shuts off power to
the regulator, but event at that alternator should not be outputting current
that has nowhere to go. It does sound more like someone moved th
Hi Guys,
I have heard the expression 'if you think it's time to reef, then reef' many
times. I basically agree, buy many new sailors don't realize there are many
things you should do BEFORE reefing.
In light air (5 kts) you want a very full sail shape to capture as much
power as possible. The hal
Hi Steve,
Perfect explanation! That makes sense to me. I never understood why
turning off the key would create the reverse voltage, and perhaps it was
just a coincidence that the alternator was noticed to be dead a week or so
after the key was turned off. I have no disconnect between the al
Question #1.
Failure mechanism:
When an alternator is running and delivering current, the current through
the stator windings creates a magnetic field proportional to the amount of
current flowing. The current varies with the resistance of the load, and if
there was no voltage regulator co
I would say that you should reef before you get uneasy (or when your
passengers get uneasy (including the most important Admiral )).
You will quickly find that too much heel would not help. You would be going
sideways,instead of forward. And the only benefit would be that you are
uncomfortable
Gary,
No idea on #1. My “ignition” switch was inadvertently shut off the other day
with no consequences. The switch has nothing to do with the alternator. It
simply provides power to the starter button, fuel gauge, hour meter, tachometer
and oil/temperature alarms. Switching the batterie
Lorne,
It all depends What kind of sails are you carrying and how new they are.
Septima originally came with a North Dacron 130 and main, both racing quality,
and a full set of sail controls. We quickly learned that with her beam and big
butt that 18 degrees heel was near optimal.
We al
1. Shutting off the key should NOT have this effect. Something is wrong.
The alternator output should not be switched through the ignition whatsoever!
2. Zap-Stops are 15 volt zener diodes that cost about $2.00 or so.
Depending on what happens, they can eventually catch on fire or
If you have an inclinometer, 22 degrees was the number we always used as max
heel for efficiency. If you are heeling more than that, and you can't get the
boat on her feet by easing the main a bit, reef.
Our boats sail pretty well under just jib, so consider just dropping the main
completely, i
Well, It's happened again. The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off
while the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop
lever) and it fried the diodes in the alternator.
Question #1. Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?
Question #2. On my last boat I was able
Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true.
Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90
From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lorne Serpa
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:18 AM
Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MkI
Lorne - reef before you get nervous :) My ASA school taught if you are
questioning whether you should reef, you already should have :) It's a matter
of developing confidence with your boat's behavior under different sails and
trims.
I started sailing my new-to-me 30-1 just this year, and haven
65 matches
Mail list logo
