The acceleration of the zinc corrosion can be due to a number of things. The
galvanic isolator can help if the marina has a grounding issue, and will fix
that. Your problem is more likely due to dissimilar metals on your boat
immersed in salt water.
Many years ago I had a C 30 Mk I, and after
Matthew,
Good options on eBay for the Windex and/or light.
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/davis-windex
All the best,
Edd
---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
www.StarshipSailing.com
Hello C list,
I have not been here for a while but the weather is turning nice and I found my
masthead fly, also known as a windex, broken and on the ground.
It’s always something.
Mast was down, I guess I should have removed it.
This is for a C 35 mk3.
Does anyone know where I can get a
While we are on the subject, I'm selling my C 34 which is also in very
good condition, looking for a price in the upper teens with offers
considered as I have closed on a new (to us) boat.
Please pass the word to anyone who might be interested.
She can be seen here:
I have always installed two [2] shaft zincs, at the beginning of sailing season.
For last two seasons, I've seen their deterioration accelerate in my marina,
despite having a galvanic isolator on board.
I know I need to find the stray current source. That said, any thoughts on
adding a
If you find a "fender kicker" who can't meet your ask then please
send them my way, in Nanaimo.
Sweet is a 35 mk-1 in very good condition and for sale, mid to low
20s outta do it.
Cheers, Russ
At 07:50 PM 4/25/2018, you wrote:
Content-Language: en-CA
Content-Type:
I‘m assuming the 3GMD is similar to my 2GM20. If that’s the case, the reason is
that the buzzer and the temperature gauge require different sensors screwed
into the engine.
I replaced the buzzer sensor wit the temperature sensor because I’d rather use
the gauge. I thought about using a
I bought a 1981 34' with a 3GMD engine a few years ago. The temp warning buzzer
works but the gauge has never worked, although it is in place and wired.
The Yanmar manual has a section on testing the buzzer sender unit, but I don't
see anything about the location of the sender unit for the gauge
Thanks John and Maryann,
I have the butyl tape already for this summer to do the job. Was just
making sure. I pretty much have to rebed everything on the boat. I guess I
have to start somewhere.
Christian
Peer Gyth
1980 C 34
Saugatuck, CT
Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.
Thanks, Dennis. It occurred to me that with all the hurricane damage in the
past few years I may get lucky. We’ll see.
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2018 9:40 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furling question
Matt,
That's going to be
Matt,
That's going to be tough. My rigger buddy and I faced this situation a
couple years ago. Parts for MKI furlers are practically non-existent.
You could call a bunch of rigging shops but my guess is you'll come up
empty. The best rigging shop on the Gulf Coast is Zern Rigging. Call Rick
Listers:
Question for you. I have an ‘80s vintage Harken roller furler -- Mk I,
Unit 2 – with a damaged torque tube. Harken no longer supplies replacement
parts for this unit. I have done a couple internet searches and looked on
e-Bay for a used torque tube to no avail. Do any of you
There are some tricolor lights with strobes in them. The only legal use I know
of would be like shooting white flares, they would be last ditch efforts to not
get run over. There is no legal routine use for them.
Joe
Coquina
Thread creep – we once laid out floating MOB strobes in a path from
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