My vote is aliens. Or the Russian navy. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C
LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
Original message From: Jim Watts via CnC-List
Date: 9/26/19 20:57 (GMT-08:00) To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts Subject: Re:
Stus-List Interesting electrical problem
Sounds very much like a lightning strike. I assume you'd know if you'd been
hit.
Or aliens.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On Thu, 26 Sep 2019 at 14:16, John Irvin via CnC-List
wrote:
> Any UFO’s in the area?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Ian
Any UFO’s in the area?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the wisdom
> of this group. I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
>
> I have an very intermittent
Personally I usually find that strange electrical problems especially on
boats are grounding problems. Yours sounds very peculiar though. From an
isolating batteries point of view i would consider adding a Victron battery
isolator. That would get your house and start batteries apart if the
problem
I have a 1975 33 - I and I did the following:
I went to a window building place and went through their samples of spline and
found one that fit perfectly (ie, it closely matched the old spline
thickness). I then went to Amazon and ordered the shortest roll I could
get (100 ft). Here is what I
Was wondering about that.
From: Dave. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2019 2:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: kasel...@q.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)
OOOPS. How about 1975? I have a 1965 VW 21 window transporter, does that count?
Dave.
SLY
1975 C
I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the
wisdom of this group. I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only
happened twice in the last 7 years. In both cases it has resulted in
electrical /
OOOPS. How about 1975? I have a 1965 VW 21 window transporter, does that count?
Dave.
SLY
1975 C 33
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 26, 2019, at 9:58 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Dave, you have a 1965 33-1? I'd like to see photos of your boat! thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4:
Evan,
Replacing the lenses in the aluminum frames is straightforward. I do it
every 7-8 years on my 35-1. I cut the lenses myself from acrylic I get
from mcmaster.com.
First, the inner seal is simply D-shaped EDPM weatherstripping that can be
found at Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart. MD Building
Welcome aboard, Evan.
If you decide down the road to do something more elaborate (and expensive)
with your windows, my 1978 34 came with the same oval framed windows (C
started using the "go fast" windows on the 34 the next year). I replaced my
windows with Lewmar opening ports, which
Dave, you have a 1965 33-1? I'd like to see photos of your boat! thanks
Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-Original Message-
From: Dave. via CnC-List
To:
Its always great to hear from another 33-1 owner. These are great boats.
Prefect size with great sailing characteristics. We have won many PHRF races in
ours. In our case, a prior owner removed the window frames entirely and using a
double sided foam tape type material stuck the windows
The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is
pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame and
the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass.
I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at relatively
large expense.
Hull Numbers (HIN)
HIN
All boats manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must
bear a HIN. The HIN is a 12 character serial number that uniquely
identifies your boat. The HIN has an important safety purpose. It
enables manufacturers to clearly identify for boat owners the boats
If the prop is in the forward configuration when you start sailingthe shaft
will rotate. The Max Prop literature says to put the transmission I yo reverse
to realign the prop blades then put it in neutral. Works for me.
Typoed from my iPhone
Tom Buscaglia
Alera 1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
PYI has a spec for blade tightness. When it needs manufactured PYI has a
program for that which will cost you roughly 1/3 the cost of an new
max-prop.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Thu, Sep 26, 2019, 11:26 AM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
Edd,
Two tips for the AC raw water install.
1. Put a valve on the discharge thru-hull. Many installers don't do this.
2. Install a tee on the supply for a dock hose hook up. Mine is on the
discharge of the pump.
This will allow you to do a couple things. First, if your pump fails, you
can
When I bought Rebecca Leah 2.5 years ago. The surveyor noticed that the
prop blades were loose. I pulled the prop and sent it to a local Prop shop.
I was just told that it was not repairable by them. My next step is to take
it to PYI in Lynnwood WA for their opinion. I my be in the market for a
The last three digits in the HIN (Hull Identification Number) on the
Transom might not be the hull number. If the HIN starts "ZCC30..." or
"CCY30..." the digits after the "30" are probably your hull number.
Ken H.
On Thursday, 26 September 2019, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
The owner's manual does not have much rigging information. I have hull
number 593, and there are hull numbers 1 and 7 on this list, ranging up to
the low 600's. Lots of good information. You spoke of blocks for the main,
do you mean the oak ones (I have six) at the partners (mast exit from the
Dennis
FYI
Interestingly, HONEY is a 1974 model (the last 39 built) and has the HIN on
the transom's starboard quarter as well as on a metal plate in the forward
end of the cockpit. Strangely, the do not completely match. The plate does
not include the moth or year of the build, the transom (real
Anyone installed an anchor windlass on a 33-2?
How did you?
Thanks,
Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2
adri...@telamontech.com
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly
>
> If your boat is 1972 or older, the hull number will not be on the
> starboard transom or quarter. It would have been on a metal plate attached
> somewhere in the cockpit.
Dennis C.
>
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
Hari, Sail numbers can be selected by owner, assigned by the manufacturer,
boat class, or sailing organizations. If you plan to join US Sailing and sail
in US or offshore coastal then US Sailing will assign you a number, if you
wish. If you are racing in a class, the class association will
Hi Ken,
The J-Prop looks interesting and MaxProp now makes more easily adjustable props
too.
I've had a Max-Prop for the last fifteen years. I installed it to recommended
pitch and made an adjustment the following year to reduce pitch and allow
proper RPM. No adjustments since.
Is there any
I have a 3 blade Maxprop as well. It has worked well in forward and reverse.
Has anyone figured out a way to check its feathering action? I presume it is
feathering when sailing, but don’t know how to tell. The only thing I can
think of would be to sail to the mooring and then dive.
The hull number will be on the transom . I usually put one larger spacer front
and rear the two on each side around my mast .
Sent from Joe Bognar
> On Sep 25, 2019, at 7:41 PM, HV via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Recently purchased a 1979 C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the
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