Thanks everyone for the insights!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
On Wed, Jan 13, 2021, 12:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
> Here's a good article on heat exchanger maintenance.
>
> https://pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger
>
> Touche' has a
Here's a good article on heat exchanger maintenance.
https://pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger
Touche' has a Universal 25XPB diesel. I remove the end caps every 2-3
years, flush and inspect. I have observed the remnants of zincs as shown
on the above site.
If necessary I would "rod out"
My Universal M4-30 has a tube-in-shell heat exchanger and I keep 1/8" wooden
dowels in my spare kits to rod out the tubes occasionally. IIRC use a 9/16"
box wrench to remove the single bolt holding each end cover and push the dowel
through to the other side. There is a zinc screwed into one
Thanks Dennis,
I've been following the daily briefings on YouTube and enjoying the video from
many of the skippers. Boris Herrman has the best videos and is now catching up
to the lead boats. So many stories to follow. I wish they would include Sam
Davies in the tracking. She's disqualified
Many of our boats from the early 80's have aftermarket heat exchangers from
a company called Sen-Dure. While most have the removable end caps (with
O-rings) that have been mentioned previously, the heat exchangers are VERY
expensive to replace ( I was quote approximately $600-700 USD). While
It’s the raw water side, I have done this by disconnecting each end of the heat
exchanger (raw water cooling) and taking a bilge pump and house and cycling
barnacle buster through the exchanger. I don’t know if there would be a need
to do this on the freshwater side.
Simplest and most
I didn't even realize the ends came off the heat exchanger. I will have to
check it out and give mine a good cleaning. I am sure it could use it.
Thanks Edd
Adam
C 36
Pictou NS
Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
From: Edd
The Vendee Globe race is getting exciting now. After leading for a couple
weeks, Besthaven sailed into some light winds and several boats in the
chasing pack closed the gap. Now Dalin is leading by just a few miles with
Besthaven about 10 nm behind.
After racing more than 23,000 nm, the top 6
Bruce,
There are a few marine Diesel engine maintenance books out there, and your
engine manual may have enough info on that alone.
To check the tube stack, you’ll need to remove the end caps and slide it out.
Do a check for corrosion and clean. If you see corrosion or holes, replace it
I've heard of using rifle cleaning kits or wood dowels too.
Joel
On Wed, Jan 13, 2021 at 9:33 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> If you take the end caps off the heat exchanger, you can see the tubes the
> raw water flows through. Flushing and replacing the
If you take the end caps off the heat exchanger, you can see the tubes the raw
water flows through. Flushing and replacing the coolant does not touch the
inside of these tubes. To truly clean out the heat exchanger you need to remove
these caps. I stuck mine in a tub of hot water and detergent,
Hi Edd,
I've owned the boat for 4 years, have replaced the coolant twice, and have
checked the mixing elbow a couple times. I have never checked/cleaned the
heat exchanger. I'm not quite sure what you mean by the tube stack?
Is there a good source of information as to the proper maintenance
Bruce,
How long has it been since you last cleaned the exchanger, checked the tube
stack and replaced the coolant?
It should be done at least once every five years, including replacing the
o-rings.
Barnacle Buster is a good product, especially down here, but not to be used
instead of
Hello all,
I am in the Tampa area and have a Yanmar 3JH2E in our C I'm not having
any problems at the moment, but given the warm seawater here that tends to
grow barnacles and such, would you recommend proactively flushing the heat
exchanger? I am considering using Barnacle Buster.
Thanks for
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