This is a collection of the resources, tools, and hardware I used to make my dyneema stuff. For the lifelines I used 1/4" dyneema and made locked brummel eye splices supported by thimbles. You have to be able to thread the rope eye through the stanchions THEN install the thimble. Solid thimbles prevent the sharp corners found on split thimbles. I got the double eye's for the gates but could be persuaded to only use the pelican hooks and thimbles. The double eyes have the disadvantage of being loose when the gate is open and subsequently creating a pinch hazard while boarding. Without the double eyes the pelican hooks could be arranged such that when they are released the entire lifeline goes loose. This may be an advantage for MOB or boarding in non-standard/non-gated locations such as when you have to use a really short finger pier.
I luggage tag one of the ends with an eye splice and no thimble to the bow. Same welded fitting where the wire rope attached previously. Thread the line back, and then terminate about 6 inches shy of the aft fitting. The remaining 6" is lashed with 1/8th or 3/32 dyneema. Figuring out this distance isn't intuitive since burying the tail results in a shortening of the line... Then tapering the tail results in a restoration of some of the lost length. Trial and error is pretty much the only way. I'll see if I can find some pictures. https://l-36.com/soft_shackles.php?menu=4 https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/ https://www.l-36.com/brummel2.php https://d-splicer.com https://rigworks.com/replacing-your-lifelines/ https://www.fisheriessupply.com/johnson-marine-splice-line-lifeline-mini-pelican-hook/ls-3170 https://www.sailrite.com/Thimble-Solid-Stainless-Steel-for-Wire-to-1-4 https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?id=2358492&path=-1|118|2358491 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD
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