@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Hi All,
I was able to pressurize both the tank, 40psi for about an hour, and
the coil, 10lbs for about 45 minutes, the only leaking I could detect
was at the hose clamps. So, I think I'm good to go. I already bought
new elements, one as a
o: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Hi All,
I was able to pressurize both the tank, 40psi for about an hour, and the coil,
10lbs for about 45 minutes, the only leaking I could detect was at the hose
clamps. So, I th
Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Date: Tue, 2 May 2017 12:07:59 -0400
Danny, That is n
Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Ok, so maybe I go back to testing the heat exchanger with a pump and a bucket
of water. The pressure around the boat yard is probably near 30 or 40 lbs or
so I may try the "glassblower" metho
:* Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the
h
ist.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 2, 2017 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high
coolant temps, I would definitely replace
>
Subject: Stus-List Water heater mystery
Danny, not sure I would test that high a pressure. The coolant pressure won't
be as high as your domestic water pressure. You could pressurize the tank with
fresh water and test the bypass loop by opening the loop caps if they are
capped. If the loop
Danny, not sure I would test that high a pressure. The coolant pressure won't
be as high as your domestic water pressure. You could pressurize the tank with
fresh water and test the bypass loop by opening the loop caps if they are
capped. If the loop leaks it can be easily repaired. But that
Just as an FYI, here is the heater setup.
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Al8x-ET7_b7Mp3gif8d6_wPOkLJR
Getting that out will not be an easy job!
Danny
On 5/2/2017 12:09 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the
high coolant temps, I
Ok, So, the first think to do would be to pressurize it and then, if i
don't see any leaks, get some appropriate hose. given that the working
pressure is 150 and the test pressure is 300, hooking up a hose should
not be a problem. I think I'll go that route. I tell you, getting 12
gals of
Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high
coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with
high-temp rated hose. I’ve seen the clear hose develop “aneurisms” when under
high temp and pressure; these will burst and you’ll lose all
Danny,
That is not heater hose. I would see if it is temperature rated for 180
degree water! I just bought a 50 foot roll from Amazon because it was
cheaper than 15 feet at West. If you were nearby, I'd give you the rest.
Yes, I'd hook up a hose and see if there is a leak. They likely
Hello all,
Well, In the fall of 2015, when we were in the process of buying our
boat, the water heater was hooked up and tripping the shore power
breaker at the survey. Surveyor said, it's probably just the element.
There is a loop in the engine for the piping to the coil heat exchanger
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