Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Bill Bina via CnC-List

A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating reading,
and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
Damian Greene
CC 34 GHOST
Bass Harbor, Maine



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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List
If you’re looking for a controllable heat source without any AC at hand, try a 
(good) creme brulé torch 
http://www.amazon.com/BonJour-Cr%C3%A8me-Br%C3%BBl%C3%A9e-Professional-Culinary/dp/B001DITG5S/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=apsie=UTF8qid=1427543308sr=1-1-catcorrkeywords=brulee+torch
  Annoys the hell out of my wife when I use hers but it’s pretty handy if you 
don’t a heat gun available.

Just watch out that you don’t burn the heat shrink or the boat…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/
 On Mar 28, 2015, at 7:16 AM, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.
 
 Bill Bina
 
 On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:
 Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
 tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
 I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
 couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
 By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
 www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating reading,
 and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
 major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
 Damian Greene
 CC 34 GHOST
 Bass Harbor, Maine
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Nauset Beach via CnC-List
A BIC “grill” lighter for  $3 from your local CVS / Walgreens / grocery store 
works very well – just keep the flame moving…

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Damian 
Greene via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 6:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

 

Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the tubing  
/ melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections? 

 

I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a couple 
on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.

 

By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to www.marinehowto.com 
http://www.marinehowto.com/  - fascinating reading, and I learned so much! I 
also now know who to go to if I am doing any major electrical work on my boat 
(he lives in Maine).

 

Damian Greene

CC 34 GHOST

Bass Harbor, Maine

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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
I picked up a portable torch.  It came with a few attachments to use a 
suffering iron and different flame configurations.  It's refillable with 
butane.  Basically a big lighter on steroids.  Works great.  I can crimp a 
connector, drop a little solder on it and then heat shrink it.

Danny.


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 03/28/2015  7:16 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing 
 
A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:
 Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
 tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
 I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
 couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
 By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
 www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating reading,
 and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
 major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
 Damian Greene
 CC 34 GHOST
 Bass Harbor, Maine



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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Soldering iron...  not a suffering iron.  Lol


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 03/28/2015  8:18 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: billbinal...@gmail.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing 
 
I picked up a portable torch.  It came with a few attachments to use a 
suffering iron and different flame configurations.  It's refillable with 
butane.  Basically a big lighter on steroids.  Works great.  I can crimp a 
connector, drop a little solder on it and then heat shrink it.

Danny.


From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 03/28/2015 7:16 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing 


A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:
 Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
 tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
 I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
 couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
 By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
 www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating reading,
 and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
 major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
 Damian Greene
 CC 34 GHOST
 Bass Harbor, Maine



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Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

2015-03-28 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
OK Rich, I guess that explains things for me, you had too many batteries
onboard Indigo, otherwise she would have been much faster, right

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Mar 28, 2015 at 11:51 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I didn’t realize I’d start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late
 reply. Work…

 I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:

 When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated
 combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive
 the same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb
 different amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery
 that is fully charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously
 provided excessive voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high
 voltage to efficiently recharge it.

 In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for
 just that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage
 to the starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in
 reasonable condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually
 within a few minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in
 good condition should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times
 before requiring recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive
 voltage as charging of house batteries continues will cause the start
 battery to lose electrolyte.  If this process is repeated often or long
 enough, the start battery will eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to
 start the engine. This situation is exacerbated by the use of smart
 alternator controllers and multi step AC chargers which cause higher charge
 voltages to be present than those produced by internally regulated
 alternators and simple single voltage chargers.

 Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the
 EchoCharge or a similar device to maintain a single purposed, isolated
 engine start battery, ensures that the start battery only receives enough
 charge voltage to recharge it to full capacity. Barring a failure, there
 will always be reliable power to start the engine. Switching should be
 provided to enable emergency use of the house battery to start the engine
 or the engine start battery to provide house power.

 I have also used EchoCharge units to provide charge power to windlass
 batteries installed in the bow near the windlass. That saves a stack of
 money for expensive heavy copper wires to feed the windlass from the main
 house battery. If you install an EchoCharge, make sure it is in a dry,
 ventilated, relatively cool location. It is not waterproof, the principal
 cause for failure I have seen.

 Multiple output AC chargers are OK to use but should be carefully chosen
 and installed. If batteries are in parallel, only one charge leg should be
 connected to that bank. If an automatic combiner is used, only one battery
 charging source is required. For systems I design, I use a single output
 smart charger to charge the house battery and rely on devices such as the
 EchoCharge to distribute charge current as needed to start and other
 auxiliary batteries, one device for each battery. That charger is connected
 to the same point in the system as the alternator, as are any wind
 generators and solar panels on board.

 As an aside, I’m intrigued by the discussion about installing ever larger
 battery banks. Is this based on real calculated daily need, inefficient
 charging systems or other factors? Average daily power consumption for our
 boats including refrigeration, modern nav gear, sailing instruments,
 lighting and entertainment should not exceed 150 A/hrs per 24 hour period
 and generally will be much lower. A well maintained 450 A/hr house battery
 bank should be plenty in my opinion. More than that is excessive weight
 that simply slows down the boat and extends time between longer charges.

 Controversy is welcomed!

 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 For sale in Halifax, NS.





 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 For sale in Halifax, NS.






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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List

Barbeque lighter lasts longer and you can have a bigger flame.

Gary
Maryland

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing



A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating reading,
and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
Damian Greene
CC 34 GHOST
Bass Harbor, Maine



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Stus-List Raymarine wind mast unit. ..

2015-03-28 Thread davidrisch75 via CnC-List
Need a mast wand for an ST 60.  Anybody have one for sale?

David F. Risch.
1981 40

Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.  ___

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Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

2015-03-28 Thread Knowles Rich via CnC-List
I didn’t realize I’d start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late reply. 
Work…

I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:

When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated 
combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive the 
same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb different 
amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery that is fully 
charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously provided excessive 
voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high voltage to efficiently 
recharge it.

In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for just 
that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage to the 
starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in reasonable 
condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually within a few 
minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in good condition 
should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times before requiring 
recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive voltage as charging of 
house batteries continues will cause the start battery to lose electrolyte.  If 
this process is repeated often or long enough, the start battery will 
eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to start the engine. This situation 
is exacerbated by the use of smart alternator controllers and multi step AC 
chargers which cause higher charge voltages to be present than those produced 
by internally regulated alternators and simple single voltage chargers. 

Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the 
EchoCharge or a similar device to maintain a single purposed, isolated engine 
start battery, ensures that the start battery only receives enough charge 
voltage to recharge it to full capacity. Barring a failure, there will always 
be reliable power to start the engine. Switching should be provided to enable 
emergency use of the house battery to start the engine or the engine start 
battery to provide house power.

I have also used EchoCharge units to provide charge power to windlass batteries 
installed in the bow near the windlass. That saves a stack of money for 
expensive heavy copper wires to feed the windlass from the main house battery. 
If you install an EchoCharge, make sure it is in a dry, ventilated, relatively 
cool location. It is not waterproof, the principal cause for failure I have 
seen.

Multiple output AC chargers are OK to use but should be carefully chosen and 
installed. If batteries are in parallel, only one charge leg should be 
connected to that bank. If an automatic combiner is used, only one battery 
charging source is required. For systems I design, I use a single output smart 
charger to charge the house battery and rely on devices such as the EchoCharge 
to distribute charge current as needed to start and other auxiliary batteries, 
one device for each battery. That charger is connected to the same point in the 
system as the alternator, as are any wind generators and solar panels on board.

As an aside, I’m intrigued by the discussion about installing ever larger 
battery banks. Is this based on real calculated daily need, inefficient 
charging systems or other factors? Average daily power consumption for our 
boats including refrigeration, modern nav gear, sailing instruments, lighting 
and entertainment should not exceed 150 A/hrs per 24 hour period and generally 
will be much lower. A well maintained 450 A/hr house battery bank should be 
plenty in my opinion. More than that is excessive weight that simply slows down 
the boat and extends time between longer charges.

Controversy is welcomed! 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Knowles Rich via CnC-List
I have a suffering iron too. For clothes. At least, that’s how much I like it.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





On Mar 28, 2015, at 05:18, Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I picked up a portable torch.  It came with a few attachments to use a 
suffering iron and different flame configurations.  It's refillable with 
butane.  Basically a big lighter on steroids.  Works great.  I can crimp a 
connector, drop a little solder on it and then heat shrink it.

Danny.


From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 03/28/2015 7:16 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing 


A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:
 Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
 tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
 I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
 couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
 By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
 www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ 
 http://www.marinehowto.com/ http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating 
 reading,
 and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
 major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
 Damian Greene
 CC 34 GHOST
 Bass Harbor, Maine



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 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


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Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





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Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

2015-03-28 Thread Damian Greene via CnC-List
Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the tubing  
/ melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?  I want cordless as my boat is 
normally on a mooring. I've come across a couple on the internet, but it's hard 
to judge if they are any good. By the way - big thank you to whoever posted 
that link to www.marinehowto.com - fascinating reading, and I learned so much! 
I also now know who to go to if I am doing any major electrical work on my boat 
(he lives in Maine). Damian GreeneCC 34 GHOSTBass Harbor, Maine

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