Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I read somewhere on the forum that the holes mounting those rails are not a 
standard distance apart. I would have them reproduce from the original! My wife 
takes great pride in her varnish on those rails! I am a lucky man!
Rick
Paikea 37/40


Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Aug 9, 2017, at 09:03, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Second on stainless.  It's easier to get custom fitted than you might think.  
> Local shop took my old ones, used them to create a hole-Template on a length 
> of angle aluminum, then fabricated new ones on that.  Perfect fit.   
> Increased the stand off height as well.
> 
> Shoulda done it sooner.
> 
> Dave, 33-2
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2017, at 11:27 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> 
>> Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom made 
>> by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old ones first 
>> and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can better 
>> guarantee the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will probably 
>> be able to get some a little later today.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>>> 
>>> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 
>>> loops.  
>>> 
>>> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless 
>>> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am 
>>> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either 
>>> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton 
>>> Marine for about $160 apiece.  
>>> 
>>> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking 
>>> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in 
>>> the deck...
>>> 
>>> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?  
>>> 
>>> Thanks for the insights,
>>>  
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>> 
>>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It seems to 
get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take much to get it past 
the sticking point and I can still roll it in by hand without too much 
effort.  I'm going down in Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of 
you have any advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?


Thanks in advance!

Danny

Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi John,

Using Blogger (i.e. blogspot) is rather easy and it is free.  Much of my recent 
efforts I have not bothered to write up as they are mostly never ending tasks: 
little cosmetics projects, engine maintenance,  leak hunting, brightwork, … 
I am working on a water heeling bag system so that I can heel 53’ of air draft 
under a 49’ bridge.  My next big project will likely be the icebox rebuild.  I 
see from the your photos, that you have a CoolBlue cold plate system.  Are you 
happy with it?  I’m guessing that the icebox was reinsulated .  Do you know 
what insulation and how much was used?

Thanks for the photos.  I like the replacement teak inset cabinet doors which 
you have all throughout.  I may copy that idea. 

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 8, 2017, at 11:26 PM, john wright  wrote:
> 
> Paul
> 
> I look at your site a lot these day. I am thinking if setting up a blog also 
> to tell the story.
> 
> Please keep sending info and or comments.
> 
> Best
> 
> 
>> On Aug 1, 2017, at 12:37 PM, Paul E via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> Wally’s site is a wonderful guide and inspiration.   There are several other 
>> Landfall 38 owners who have insightful blogs: RainDays, Raft, VioletHour; 
>> are just the first few which come up on a google search. 
>> 
>> I have recently done much of the same refits on my boat.  Below is a direct 
>> link to my project page.
>> 
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
>>> On Aug 1, 2017, at 10:25 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
 From: john wright >
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Cc: 
 Bcc: 
 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
 Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
 Hello everyone
 
 I am about to begin a complete refit on what is the best boat  for my 
 purpose ( sailing around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 
 1500 in 2019), after looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 
 years. The boat is in better than average condition, I will post pictures 
 later.
 
 I have the work broken down into three categories, and would appreciate 
 any recommendations and reorganizing of the list. 
 
 Thanks
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 

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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Rick,

You are correct.  The holes are not standard.  They were apparently drilled
in place.  As such each one has minute differences in placement.  That's
why the templates are so important.  I will say that despite the appearance
of the wood rails the SS ones are so much stronger and easier to maintain.
Always clean and never need polished.  They are slippery and if it was
anyone's habit to stand on the wooden rails then they will be surprised by
the insecure footing which is provided by the SS ones.  That being said I
would sooner tie off to the SS rails than just about any other deck mounted
fitting aside from maybe the bow and stern cleats.

Josh



On Wed, Aug 9, 2017, 12:32 PM Rick Rohwer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I read somewhere on the forum that the holes mounting those rails are not
> a standard distance apart. I would have them reproduce from the original!
> My wife takes great pride in her varnish on those rails! I am a lucky man!
> Rick
> Paikea 37/40
>
>
> Rick Rohwer
> 509 306 1094
>
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2017, at 09:03, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Second on stainless.  It's easier to get custom fitted than you might
> think.  Local shop took my old ones, used them to create a hole-Template on
> a length of angle aluminum, then fabricated new ones on that.  Perfect fit.
>   Increased the stand off height as well.
>
> Shoulda done it sooner.
>
> Dave, 33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 9, 2017, at 11:27 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom
> made by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old
> ones first and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can
> better guarantee the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will
> probably be able to get some a little later today.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>>
>> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6
>> loops.
>>
>> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless
>> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am
>> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either
>> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton
>> Marine for about $160 apiece.
>>
>> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking
>> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in
>> the deck...
>>
>> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?
>>
>> Thanks for the insights,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C models

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Ken,
 Very well written.  Mine doesn't have ball bearing genoa cars,
however. :-(.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 11:01 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It seems that the edits are coming from someone from our Club. All
> pictures are from the lake we sail on.
>
>
>
> There are probably close to 50-60 C boats at the Club.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *RANDY
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 8, 2017 21:43
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* RANDY 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C models
>
>
>
> That is a beautiful boat, Ken.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Randy Stafford
>
> S/V Grenadine
>
> C 30-1 #7
>
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
> --
>
> *From: *"Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Ken Heaton" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, August 8, 2017 5:30:16 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C models
>
>
>
> For my fellow C 37/40 owners and other list members, I recently noticed
> someone put several articles on Wikipedia, featuring a few different C
> models.
>
>
>
> I thought is was time I added one for the C 37/40 series:
>
>
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%26C_37/40
>
>
>
> Have a look and let me know what I may have missed.
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
>
>
> */**/(\\./**)** (\\(\\\.(\/)/ **/)**/*
>
>
>
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C models

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Absolutely well done, Ken!
We've only had our C 37/40+ for about 6 months now, and hope that in another 
year or so ours will start to look almost as good as yours!  

Thanks for sharing! Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 To: C List  
Cc: Gary Russell 
 Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 7:08 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C models
   
Ken,     Very well written.  Mine doesn't have ball bearing genoa cars, 
however. :-(.GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 11:01 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

It seems that the edits are coming from someone from our Club. All pictures are 
from the lake we sail on. There are probably close to 50-60 C boats at the 
Club. MarekOttawa, ON From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com]On 
Behalf Of RANDY via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 21:43
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C models That is 
a beautiful boat, Ken. Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, 
CO From:"Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Ken Heaton" 
Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 5:30:16 PM
Subject: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C models For my 
fellow C 37/40 owners and other list members, I recently noticed someone put 
several articles on Wikipedia, featuring a few different C models. I thought 
is was time I added one for the C 37/40 series: 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ C%26C_37/40 Have a look and let me know what I 
may have missed. Thank you, //(\\./) (\\(\\\.(\/)/ /)/   Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
__ _ This list is supported by the 
generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset 
our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions 
are greatly appreciated! 
__ _

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 47

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Nice,

So where are the keys….


Have you thought about adding a section on the running rigging?   I.e. details 
specific to Touche’


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 9, 2017, at 3:50 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:08:48 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." >
> To: CnClist >
> Subject: Stus-List Boat operating manual
> Message-ID:
>    >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> How many listers have operating instructions specific to their boat?  Good
> for someone who doesn't know the boat.  Good to impress a potential buyer
> or helpful for a new owner (I ain't selling!)
> 
> Touche' has a manual that, in addition to the operating instructions,
> contains the boat's USCG and state documents, PHRF certificate, operating
> manuals for various equipment like VHF, engine, stereo, etc.
> 
> I'm in the process of updating and improving the boat's basic operating
> instructions.  It can be viewed at:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsdU5kZFZERHhlZEE 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Bow light

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I tried that.  It jammed and parted.  That's why is was such a PIA.

Good luck David!


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 12:26 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used the old wire to pull the new! It may have been dumb luck though!
> Sometimes even I get some dumb luck!
> Rick
> Paikea 37/40
> Friday Harbor until 10:00 today and then off to Orcas.
>
> Rick Rohwer
> 509 306 1094 <(509)%20306-1094>
>
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2017, at 06:24, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> It is a PIA job!  I manged to feed the wire from the bottom and grab the
> end of the wire with needle nose pliers at the exit hole.
>
> Spray the wire with McLube.  It will feed easier.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 8:53 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> So I am trying to replace the bow light wire in the pulpit.   Tried to
>> work the wire from both ends.   Nuthin.   Popped the pulpit leg where wire
>> exits thru deck and it looks like a feeder tube thru the deck to lead the
>> wire.   It seems I need to remove the whole pulpit to feed a new wire.
>>
>> Am I missing something?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> 1981 40-2.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Mark has identified two  probable culprits.

Drop the sail and flush both the swivel and the drum.  Flush liberally with
water from multiple angles.  Spray some McLube in both if you like.  It's
optional but a good idea.

While the sail is down, inspect, as best you can, all the joints in the
extrusion, if anything looks amiss, investigate it further.

Next, from off the boat, sight the furling line where it enters/exits the
drum.  It should be very close to perpendicular.  If necessary, reposition
the forwardmost furling line block to achieve perpendicular.  The furling
line should move up and down as it feeds on the drum.  If it coils in the
top, move the block down.  If it coils low, move the block up.

As a last check, have a friend furl and unfurl the sail while you observe
the swivel and halyard from a distance with binoculars.

Do you have a halyard restrainer?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an anchorage I
> decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out a couple times by
> hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a hundred Torlon balls rained
> down from the mast head!  Seems my retaining ring clamp on the upper swivel
> had come partially out of the groove - when it let go I sprinkled the
> anchorage with the innards of the swivel.
>
> I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top first, see
> if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you start testing other
> parts of the system.
>
> Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed line,
> jamming in the drum etc.
>
> Mark
>
> CS30 - Prosecco
>
> Deep Cove, Nova Scotia
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It seems to
>> get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take much to get it past the
>> sticking point and I can still roll it in by hand without too much effort.
>> I'm going down in Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of you have any
>> advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>>
>> Danny
>>
>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

forgot to mention, no halyard restrainer.  the sheave is right behind 
the headstay, where the halyard exist the mast



On 8/9/2017 3:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Mark has identified two  probable culprits.

Drop the sail and flush both the swivel and the drum. Flush liberally 
with water from multiple angles.  Spray some McLube in both if you 
like.  It's optional but a good idea.


While the sail is down, inspect, as best you can, all the joints in 
the extrusion, if anything looks amiss, investigate it further.


Next, from off the boat, sight the furling line where it enters/exits 
the drum.  It should be very close to perpendicular.  If necessary, 
reposition the forwardmost furling line block to achieve 
perpendicular.  The furling line should move up and down as it feeds 
on the drum.  If it coils in the top, move the block down.  If it 
coils low, move the block up.


As a last check, have a friend furl and unfurl the sail while you 
observe the swivel and halyard from a distance with binoculars.


Do you have a halyard restrainer?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
> wrote:



My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an
anchorage I decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out
a couple times by hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a
hundred Torlon balls rained down from the mast head!  Seems my
retaining ring clamp on the upper swivel had come partially out of
the groove - when it let go I sprinkled the anchorage with the
innards of the swivel.

I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top
first, see if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you
start testing other parts of the system.

Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed
line, jamming in the drum etc.

Mark

CS30 - Prosecco

Deep Cove, Nova Scotia


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It
seems to get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take
much to get it past the sticking point and I can still roll it
in by hand without too much effort.  I'm going down in
Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of you have any
advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?

Thanks in advance!

Danny

Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an anchorage I 
decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out a couple times by 
hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a hundred Torlon balls 
rained down from the mast head!  Seems my retaining ring clamp on the 
upper swivel had come partially out of the groove - when it let go I 
sprinkled the anchorage with the innards of the swivel.


I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top first, see 
if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you start testing other 
parts of the system.


Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed line, 
jamming in the drum etc.


Mark

CS30 - Prosecco

Deep Cove, Nova Scotia


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It seems to 
get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take much to get it 
past the sticking point and I can still roll it in by hand without too 
much effort.  I'm going down in Saturday to play around with it.  Do 
any of you have any advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?


Thanks in advance!

Danny

Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Ditto to all Dennis said.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2017 11:54 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

I used Whitewater for SS handrails on a J30.  Turned out great. 

Just have to be VERY careful about measuring and sending them old ones.  Your 
old rails may be both curved and crowned.  They may "unflex" a bit once you 
remove them.  Like Josh says, templates for the curve AND the crown will help.  

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom made 
by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old ones first 
and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can better guarantee 
the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will probably be able to 
get some a little later today. 

  Josh Muckley 
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD



  On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Hello all,

I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...

Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 
loops.  


We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless 
abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am 
thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either stainless 
handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton Marine for 
about $160 apiece.  


I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking 
stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in the 
deck... 

Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?  


Thanks for the insights,

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok, so, I did check the swivel before raising the sail and it seemed 
fine.  That was only about 3 weeks ago.  I think dropping the sail and 
flushing is probably the best, 1st, line of action. Someone else 
mentioned maybe supporting the mast with the halyard and releasing the 
head stay and soaking the drum in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water 
before rinsing.  That sounds like a good idea too.  with a requisite 
inspection, of course.


I'll have to check the way the line exits the drum too.  maybe adjust a 
block if necessary...


Thank again.

Danny


On 8/9/2017 3:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Mark has identified two  probable culprits.

Drop the sail and flush both the swivel and the drum. Flush liberally 
with water from multiple angles.  Spray some McLube in both if you 
like.  It's optional but a good idea.


While the sail is down, inspect, as best you can, all the joints in 
the extrusion, if anything looks amiss, investigate it further.


Next, from off the boat, sight the furling line where it enters/exits 
the drum.  It should be very close to perpendicular.  If necessary, 
reposition the forwardmost furling line block to achieve 
perpendicular.  The furling line should move up and down as it feeds 
on the drum.  If it coils in the top, move the block down.  If it 
coils low, move the block up.


As a last check, have a friend furl and unfurl the sail while you 
observe the swivel and halyard from a distance with binoculars.


Do you have a halyard restrainer?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
> wrote:



My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an
anchorage I decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out
a couple times by hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a
hundred Torlon balls rained down from the mast head!  Seems my
retaining ring clamp on the upper swivel had come partially out of
the groove - when it let go I sprinkled the anchorage with the
innards of the swivel.

I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top
first, see if it's spinning freely  and all intact before you
start testing other parts of the system.

Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed
line, jamming in the drum etc.

Mark

CS30 - Prosecco

Deep Cove, Nova Scotia


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It
seems to get stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take
much to get it past the sticking point and I can still roll it
in by hand without too much effort.  I'm going down in
Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of you have any
advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?

Thanks in advance!

Danny

Mattapoisett, MA


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members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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___

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Re: Stus-List Anchor alarms

[David via CnC-List]

Funny story about Drag Queen...my buddy downloaded it for me right before I had 
to go to the Verizon store for some problem...he goes right to apps..I felt 
compelled to explain the latest download.

Although with the heels he wasn't buying it...



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Date: 8/8/17 5:27 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor alarms

Tom,

Despite its name, I’ve had very good experience with Drag Queen — 
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dragqueen-anchor-alarm/id489294173?mt=8 There’s 
also an Android version from Google Play.

To be absolutely clear, Drag Queen is an app to alert you if you are moving 
while at anchor, not a way to monitor what David Risch is doing on Saturday 
nights.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




On Aug 8, 2017, at 5:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Just dropped anchor in Blind Bay and was setting the Anchor alarm and was 
wonder what,idNythingother listers use to monitor their position at anchor.

I was using Boat Sentry, but they are not updating their app.  Using Anchor now 
and it seems simple and easy to use.

IOS here.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Second that too.  My originals were drilled in place at the factory.  My 
replacements needed to be oriented correctly fore and aft and port and 
starboard or they would not fit.  


Dave 33-2


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 9, 2017, at 12:50 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Rick, 
> 
> You are correct.  The holes are not standard.  They were apparently drilled 
> in place.  As such each one has minute differences in placement.  That's why 
> the templates are so important.  I will say that despite the appearance of 
> the wood rails the SS ones are so much stronger and easier to maintain.  
> Always clean and never need polished.  They are slippery and if it was 
> anyone's habit to stand on the wooden rails then they will be surprised by 
> the insecure footing which is provided by the SS ones.  That being said I 
> would sooner tie off to the SS rails than just about any other deck mounted 
> fitting aside from maybe the bow and stern cleats.
> 
> Josh
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 9, 2017, 12:32 PM Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I read somewhere on the forum that the holes mounting those rails are not a 
>> standard distance apart. I would have them reproduce from the original! My 
>> wife takes great pride in her varnish on those rails! I am a lucky man!
>> Rick
>> Paikea 37/40
>> 
>> 
>> Rick Rohwer 
>> 509 306 1094
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 9, 2017, at 09:03, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Second on stainless.  It's easier to get custom fitted than you might 
>>> think.  Local shop took my old ones, used them to create a hole-Template on 
>>> a length of angle aluminum, then fabricated new ones on that.  Perfect fit. 
>>>   Increased the stand off height as well.
>>> 
>>> Shoulda done it sooner.
>>> 
>>> Dave, 33-2
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Aug 9, 2017, at 11:27 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
 
 Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom 
 made by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old 
 ones first and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can 
 better guarantee the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will 
 probably be able to get some a little later today.
 
 Josh Muckley 
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 
 
> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
> 
> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 
> loops.  
> 
> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless 
> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I 
> am thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either 
> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from 
> Hamilton Marine for about $160 apiece.  
> 
> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking 
> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes 
> in the deck...
> 
> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?  
> 
> Thanks for the insights,
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 47

[paul.hood via CnC-List]

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

For those of you who installed the stainless steel grab rail.  Did anybody nurl 
the rail and did it prevent the slippage problem
Paul Hood81 C 34 - RefugeGeorgian Bay

Rick,

You are correct.  The holes are not standard.  They were apparently drilled
in place.  As such each one has minute differences in placement.  That's
why the templates are so important.  I will say that despite the appearance
of the wood rails the SS ones are so much stronger and easier to maintain.
Always clean and never need polished.  They are slippery and if it was
anyone's habit to stand on the wooden rails then they will be surprised by
the insecure footing which is provided by the SS ones.  That being said I
would sooner tie off to the SS rails than just about any other deck mounted
fitting aside from maybe the bow and stern cleats.

Josh

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Re: Stus-List Bow light

[David via CnC-List]

And per my prior post...wire is not moving. This is a fall job. Ugh.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Date: 8/9/17 3:22 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bow light

I tried that.  It jammed and parted.  That's why is was such a PIA.

Good luck David!

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png]
 Virus-free. 
www.avg.com

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 12:26 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I used the old wire to pull the new! It may have been dumb luck though! 
Sometimes even I get some dumb luck!
Rick
Paikea 37/40
Friday Harbor until 10:00 today and then off to Orcas.

Rick Rohwer
509 306 1094



On Aug 9, 2017, at 06:24, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> wrote:

It is a PIA job!  I manged to feed the wire from the bottom and grab the end of 
the wire with needle nose pliers at the exit hole.

Spray the wire with McLube.  It will feed easier.

Joel

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 8:53 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
So I am trying to replace the bow light wire in the pulpit.   Tried to work the 
wire from both ends.   Nuthin.   Popped the pulpit leg where wire exits thru 
deck and it looks like a feeder tube thru the deck to lead the wire.   It seems 
I need to remove the whole pulpit to feed a new wire.

Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance.

1981 40-2.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I had mine built so that there were 1/4x20 studs that extended from the
bottom of each standoff.  This allowed full reuse of the existing holes and
through bolting.  Many of the other replacements are a type of 3 screw
flange for the standoffs and straight tubing.  I completely dug out the
existing holes and back filled with thickened epoxy before redrilling,
bedding with butyl, and fastening with nylocks.

You will find that the aft most screw on the port side has no access.
After digging holes in my own boat I suggest that you simply cut the screw
off, fill with epoxy, and then leave that single stand off without a stud
for fastening.  The stiffness of the tubing and the downward pressure of
the other standoffs will provide all the security and protection needed for
that short unsupported section of rail.

Josh

On Aug 9, 2017 11:39 AM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Thanks Josh,  pictures would be great.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/9/17 11:27 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center
>
> Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom
> made by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old
> ones first and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can
> better guarantee the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will
> probably be able to get some a little later today.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>>
>> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6
>> loops.
>>
>> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless
>> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am
>> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either
>> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton
>> Marine for about $160 apiece.
>>
>> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking
>> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in
>> the deck...
>>
>> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?
>>
>> Thanks for the insights,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Boat operating manual

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

How many listers have operating instructions specific to their boat?  Good
for someone who doesn't know the boat.  Good to impress a potential buyer
or helpful for a new owner (I ain't selling!)

Touche' has a manual that, in addition to the operating instructions,
contains the boat's USCG and state documents, PHRF certificate, operating
manuals for various equipment like VHF, engine, stereo, etc.

I'm in the process of updating and improving the boat's basic operating
instructions.  It can be viewed at:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsdU5kZFZERHhlZEE

Any suggestions?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh,  pictures would be great.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/9/17  11:27 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center 
Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom made by 
whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old ones first and 
send them with a cardboard template of each side you can better guarantee the 
results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will probably be able to get 
some a little later today.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD


On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:
Hello all,
I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 loops. 
 

We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless abandon, 
and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am thinking 
about doing away with the teak rails and going with either stainless handrails 
or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton Marine for about $160 
apiece.  

I'm
 kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking 
stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes 
in the deck...
Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?  

Thanks for the insights, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List Bow light

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I used the old wire to pull the new! It may have been dumb luck though! 
Sometimes even I get some dumb luck!
Rick
Paikea 37/40
Friday Harbor until 10:00 today and then off to Orcas.

Rick Rohwer 
509 306 1094



> On Aug 9, 2017, at 06:24, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It is a PIA job!  I manged to feed the wire from the bottom and grab the end 
> of the wire with needle nose pliers at the exit hole.
> 
> Spray the wire with McLube.  It will feed easier.
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 8:53 AM, David via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> So I am trying to replace the bow light wire in the pulpit.   Tried to work 
>> the wire from both ends.   Nuthin.   Popped the pulpit leg where wire exits 
>> thru deck and it looks like a feeder tube thru the deck to lead the wire.   
>> It seems I need to remove the whole pulpit to feed a new wire.   
>> 
>> Am I missing something?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.  
>> 
>> 1981 40-2.   
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom
made by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old ones
first and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can better
guarantee the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will probably
be able to get some a little later today.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>
> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6
> loops.
>
> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless
> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am
> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either
> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton
> Marine for about $160 apiece.
>
> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking
> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in
> the deck...
>
> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?
>
> Thanks for the insights,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I used Whitewater for SS handrails on a J30.  Turned out great.

Just have to be VERY careful about measuring and sending them old ones.
Your old rails may be both curved and crowned.  They may "unflex" a bit
once you remove them.  Like Josh says, templates for the curve AND the
crown will help.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 10:27 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom
> made by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old
> ones first and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can
> better guarantee the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will
> probably be able to get some a little later today.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>>
>> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6
>> loops.
>>
>> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless
>> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am
>> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either
>> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton
>> Marine for about $160 apiece.
>>
>> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking
>> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in
>> the deck...
>>
>> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?
>>
>> Thanks for the insights,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Second on stainless.  It's easier to get custom fitted than you might think.  
Local shop took my old ones, used them to create a hole-Template on a length of 
angle aluminum, then fabricated new ones on that.  Perfect fit.   Increased the 
stand off height as well.

Shoulda done it sooner.

Dave, 33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 9, 2017, at 11:27 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.  I had mine custom made 
> by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.  If you remove the old ones first 
> and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can better guarantee 
> the results.  I don't think I have any pictures but will probably be able to 
> get some a little later today.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>> 
>> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 
>> loops.  
>> 
>> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless 
>> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am 
>> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either 
>> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton 
>> Marine for about $160 apiece.  
>> 
>> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking stainless 
>> ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in the deck...
>> 
>> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?  
>> 
>> Thanks for the insights,
>>  
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List tus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Bruce

Alera came with SS grab rails.  Her's a pic.  https://flic.kr/p/cuGBro

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
www.sv-Alera.com

> On Aug 9, 2017, at 8:39 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2017 11:38:39 -0400
> From: bwhitmore 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center
> Message-ID: <116204.95341...@smtp115.sbc.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks Josh, ?pictures would be great.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  Date: 8/9/17  11:27 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
>  Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
> Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center 
> Many of us have gone with stainless steel handrails.? I had mine custom made 
> by whitewatermarine.com they turned great.? If you remove the old ones first 
> and send them with a cardboard template of each side you can better guarantee 
> the results.? I don't think I have any pictures but will probably be able to 
> get some a little later today.
> Josh Muckley?S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> Hello all,
> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 
> loops.? 
> 
> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless 
> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.? I am 
> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either stainless 
> handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton Marine for 
> about $160 apiece.? 
> 
> I'm
> kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking 
> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes 
> in the deck...
> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?? 
> 
> Thanks for the insights,?Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Harken Roller furler

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

I find my Furlex furler gets hard to wind the sail in when I have the jib 
halyard fully tight.  If I ease the Halyard a couple of inches, it turns much 
easier.  It is one more step when dousing the sail, but my halyard leads aft to 
the cockpit so it isn't a huge issue.
I also suspect the furler need servicing which I will do when the mast comes 
down this fall.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 9, 2017, at 4:28 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> forgot to mention, no halyard restrainer.  the sheave is right behind the 
> headstay, where the halyard exist the mast
> 
>> On 8/9/2017 3:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> Mark has identified two  probable culprits.
>> 
>> Drop the sail and flush both the swivel and the drum.  Flush liberally with 
>> water from multiple angles.  Spray some McLube in both if you like.  It's 
>> optional but a good idea.
>> 
>> While the sail is down, inspect, as best you can, all the joints in the 
>> extrusion, if anything looks amiss, investigate it further.
>> 
>> Next, from off the boat, sight the furling line where it enters/exits the 
>> drum.  It should be very close to perpendicular.  If necessary, reposition 
>> the forwardmost furling line block to achieve perpendicular.  The furling 
>> line should move up and down as it feeds on the drum.  If it coils in the 
>> top, move the block down.  If it coils low, move the block up.
>> 
>> As a last check, have a friend furl and unfurl the sail while you observe 
>> the swivel and halyard from a distance with binoculars. 
>> 
>> Do you have a halyard restrainer?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 2:16 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> My old Harken furler was sticking 2 yrs ago - one day at an anchorage I 
>>> decided to investigate by pulling the sail in and out a couple times by 
>>> hand - the "stick" seemed subtle but suddenly a hundred Torlon balls rained 
>>> down from the mast head!  Seems my retaining ring clamp on the upper swivel 
>>> had come partially out of the groove - when it let go I sprinkled the 
>>> anchorage with the innards of the swivel.
>>> 
>>> I'd suggest you drop the sail and check the swivel at the top first, see if 
>>> it's spinning freely  and all intact before you start testing other parts 
>>> of the system.
>>> 
>>> Other obvious potential issues would be the a catch in the feed line, 
>>> jamming in the drum etc.
>>> 
>>> Mark
>>> 
>>> CS30 - Prosecco
>>> 
>>> Deep Cove, Nova Scotia
>>> 
>>> 
>>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>>   - George Santayana
>>> 
>>> 
 On 2017-08-09 4:00 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
 Hello all,
 
 I'm having some trouble with my old Harken Roller furler.  It seems to get 
 stuck whne unfurling the sail.  It doesn't take much to get it past the 
 sticking point and I can still roll it in by hand without too much effort. 
  I'm going down in Saturday to play around with it.  Do any of you have 
 any advice on diagnosing this or what I should check?
 
 Thanks in advance!
 
 Danny
 
 Mattapoisett, MA
 
 
 ___
 
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 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Turns out that I had pictures the whole time.  Well now there are more.
Part of the series of pictures is of the hole which was needed in order to
remove the port aft fastener.  Naturally I used that same access port to
attach the new 1/4x20 stud.  In retrospect I would not include that stud.

Josh

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

On Aug 9, 2017 11:06 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
>
> Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6
> loops.
>
> We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless
> abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am
> thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either
> stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton
> Marine for about $160 apiece.
>
> I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking
> stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in
> the deck...
>
> Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?
>
> Thanks for the insights,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Bow light

[David via CnC-List]

So I am trying to replace the bow light wire in the pulpit.   Tried to work the 
wire from both ends.   Nuthin.   Popped the pulpit leg where wire exits thru 
deck and it looks like a feeder tube thru the deck to lead the wire.   It seems 
I need to remove the whole pulpit to feed a new wire.

Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance.

1981 40-2.



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 loops. 
 

We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless abandon, 
and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway.  I am thinking 
about doing away with the teak rails and going with either stainless handrails 
or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton Marine for about $160 
apiece.  

I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking stainless 
ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in the deck...
Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails?  

Thanks for the insights, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Bow light

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

It is a PIA job!  I manged to feed the wire from the bottom and grab the
end of the wire with needle nose pliers at the exit hole.

Spray the wire with McLube.  It will feed easier.

Joel

On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 8:53 AM, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> So I am trying to replace the bow light wire in the pulpit.   Tried to
> work the wire from both ends.   Nuthin.   Popped the pulpit leg where wire
> exits thru deck and it looks like a feeder tube thru the deck to lead the
> wire.   It seems I need to remove the whole pulpit to feed a new wire.
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> 1981 40-2.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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